Keyboard going bad

i bought a new "silver surfer" keyboard (slick looking aluminum
with a white bottom and flat keys) for my macpro in order to replace on with a transparent case and hexagonal 3 dimensional keys (that had funky keyboard action and which didn't match my macbook pro in terms of characters) - and now I am finding both it and the keyboard on my macbookpro have keys that are starting to come loose.
the macbookpro is still under 3 year warranty.
does anyone know what the deal is in terms of returning the keyboard? can I walk into the MAC STORE with my receipt and the defective product and get a cash return?

Standard "no quesuions asked" return is 14 days.
Beyond that, they will repair/replace it for a year.
If you are plugging ANYTHING except a single low-power mouse into any of the keyboard USB ports, the cause of your problem is operator error. The keyboard itself needs almost all the power a standard USB provides, and adding additional loads WILL cause it to malfunction.

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Keyboard goes haywire

I’ve had my iphone for several weeks now, and at least once a day the keyboard goes complete berserk. I’ll go and try and type a letter and it’ll give me a number, a period, or just a space. It happens both during texting and searching the internet. Does anyone else have this problem and what should I do?

Amen amen amen... I have the same exact issues ... Fully charged Zaggkeys constantly have to re-pair or reconnect ... And repeating keys ..... I thought my keyboard was defective, but from a rudimentary search, it is obvious this is not a defect (of my unit) but a very common problem. Too bad. It's a great keyboard otherwise (like having a Steinway piano that doesn't make any sounds)

Memory going bad???

My K7T266 Pro2-RU system has been running stably since I built it last November. However, yesterday I started getting frequent system lock-ups, and I couldn't find anything I had done that would have caused it. I found that I could reproduce the problem when booting a Win98 floppy and running the MEMTEST program, which pretty well ruled out anything in WinXP. Then I discovered that changing the FSB from 133 down to 100 "cures" (groan) the problem (I'm running an XP1500+ and one stick of PC2100 DDR RAM). It's very repeatable - MEMTEST locks up at 133, works fine at 100. My question is this - could this be the memory module going bad, or is some other degradation more likely??? [All components are high quality, no recent H/W changes.]

Speed Fan shows +3.3V=3.26-3.31, +5=4.95-5.0, +12=12.16-12.22, -12=-12.12 to -12.03, -5=-5.35 to -5.45
Looks like the problem is NOT with the memory - I picked up another stick (Micron vs. Crucial) and see the same situation. Also tried BIOS 3.4 and 3.6. System seems to work fine at 100 FSB (now with 512MB!), but it's irritating!!

I am running Mac OS X Lion on a brand new Mini. Every now and then, my keyboard goes "dead." The mouse still works but can't type. If I restart, everything is fine again. Is there anything that will fix this problem?

I am running Mac OS X Lion on a brand new Mini. Every now and then, my keyboard goes "dead." The mouse still works but I can't type. If I restart, everything is fine again. Is there anything that will fix this problem?
Also, I am trying to connect my Mini from the mini-Displayport to the Displayport of my Dell U2410 monitor. The image is very grainy,even though it is set to the correct resolution: 1920 X 1200 at 60Hz. If I use HDMI to VGA input, the image is much clearer. Is there a way to get the Displayport to work?

I'm having exactly the same keyboard issue. Certainly nothing has ever enhanced my concentration while coding like suddenly becoming unable to type.
I'm seeing a great many devicemgr and rake errors in my system log. I don't know if they're related. How 'bout you?
If you're unfamiliar with the system log…
Open /Applications/Utilities/Console.
If necessary, choose View > Show Log List.
system.log is at the top of the FILES section.
Try searching it for hot words like DEBUG, FATAL, and aborted.
I've found some discussions that would tend to indicate my errors are postGres related – I'm running OS X server.
-Bryan

Screen goes black, shut the lid for a few minutes, open the lid the turn on chime comes on and the screen comes back to life. The computer itself has continued to update just no screen. After a few minutes goes black again. Is logic board going bad?

Screen goes black, shut the lid for a few minutes, open the lid the turn on chime comes on and the screen comes back to life. The computer itself has continued to update just no screen. After a few minutes goes black again. Is logic board going bad or graphic card issue? Trying to decide if computer is worth repairing as it was made in 2007.

It does sound like you might have a faulty video connection. See if you can make a Genius Bar appointment at your local Apple Store.

Keyboard going nuts

I posted a topic about a water spill issue a few weeks ago, and I'm telling you that this laptop gives me anxiety and depression...The keyboard must be damaged, here are some symptoms :
- when i press some numbers, i hear a beeping sound, same beep when you press too many buttons at a time
- then the keyboard goes crazy and starts typing on its own like : zero nine one one one one one one one one etc.... and doesnt stop. the browser goes full screen and it opens inspect element
-after i make it stop numbers except five and six dont work.
- i also noticed that after the water spill the power button didnt have lights but the light came back on and the problem started
I really apreciate your help, and I hope i can fix this without having to replace the keyboard because without the numbers, u cant play video games or type some pretty important things

It will depend on the availability and shipping cost to your place and how flexible you are with the keyboard layout (if you look for a seldom layout expect to pay more).
Check for Ebay and alikes for any T410/T420/T510/T520/W510/W520 keyboard.
/L40SX/240/240X/2*340CSE/360PE/365XD/380D/380E/380XD/380Z/390/560E/560X/2*570/2*600/600E/750Cs/755C/760CD/760EL/760XD/770E/A20p/A22p
A31/i1600/G40/R50p/R61i/S30/SL510/2*T22/4*T4x/11*T6x/6*T4x0x/6*T5x0/3*W5x0/W700/3*X2x/4*X3x/3*X4x/5*X6x/3*X6xT/10*X2xx/2*X200T/4*X30x/Z60m/3*Z61x
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Hello. after updating to Ios 8 my iPhone is terribly! Discharged very quickly, many transitions between applications, the program takes off, ringtones do not work - works a standard call, the keyboard freezes, bad messages are sent, often loses the n

Hello. after updating to Ios 8 my iPhone is terribly! Discharged very quickly, many transitions between applications, the program takes off, ringtones do not work - works a standard call, the keyboard freezes, bad messages are sent, often loses the network. what have you done with your phone moym ?! solve all these problems! I beg of you!

Hello. after updating to Ios 8 my iPhone is terribly! Discharged very quickly, many transitions between applications, the program takes off, ringtones do not work - works a standard call, the keyboard freezes, bad messages are sent, often loses the network. what have you done with your phone moym ?! solve all these problems! I beg of you!

G4 MDD power button going bad?

Hi all -
I'm using a g4 MDD dual 1gig machine. Has been working great for the past few months, till just now. When I power down, the computer won't restart, unless I unplug it. (what?) That's right, the computer works fine, I turn it off and the power button will not turn the computer on unless I physically unplug the machine for a split second. After that it powers right up (at least for now). Prior to unplugging, the power switch does nothing, no lights, no chimes, nothing. It's like there is no power going to the compuer at all.
Does this sound like the power button is going bad or maybe something else? A few months ago I had PRAM/ PMU issues - could they be coming back?
Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I took care of my power-up issue tonight by working on my power supply. Here is the posting I made in another thread:
Here is what I did to troubleshoot my power issue. Your power supply can be serviced and this post offers a couple thoughts and some troubleshooting suggestions. Please read it through to the end. This isn't a cure-all for all G4 Macs, but the steps I followed seem to cover a number of bases and might prove helpful to those who are really frustrated.
I've owned a Mac every year all the way back to 1987 and have never had an issue until now and I am convinced my problem may have been triggered by a power surge or brown-out, which we seem to have experienced a lot of around here lately. This post refers to the Samsung power supply with Apple Part Number 614-0224.
I have a G4 Dual 1.25 MDD I purchased in 2003. I have had a brief issue with powering up my CPU. It wouldn't power up last weekend. I unplugged the power cord, then reconnected it to the machine and it powered up. I reasoned the power cord had become loose, but then last night I couldn't get it to come up at all. Not even a click. No lights.
So I tried all the easiest possible solutions: resetting the PRAM (pulling the battery from the logic board) and resetting the PMU (Power Management Unit). The switch, by the way, is located near where the ATA drives plug in to the logic board. Neither of those two things solved my problem. The CPU would still not power up.
I checked the lithium battery voltage with a voltmeter. It was at 3.6v, so it was still good.
I then decided my issue was probably with the power supply. With the power cord disconnected from the back of the CPU, I pulled the black power connection from the logic board and performed a power supply voltage test following the pin schematic found in this thread:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58561
The +5v trickle voltage found at Pin 9 was not present. I had no other voltage readings on any of the other pins. My issue HAD to be with the power supply.
Tonight I removed the power supply by disconnecting all of the optical drives (I have two DVD burners in this unit), all of the hard drives (three) and all of the logic board connections.
I removed all of the screws from the outer casing of the power supply, including the fat screws attaching the two black fans to the unit and the one long screw in the middle and near the edge of where the two fans are. The casing came right off.
There have been a lot of questions as to whether there are fuses in these power supplies. There has to be some protection for them and I have yet to see any power supply that did not have a fuse or resettable circuit breaker. This power supply was no different...it has a 250W, 8A fuse that is easily accessible and is located on the same side as the male power socket, near the edge of the circuit board. It is hiding under a yellow shield and is right next to a plastic connector.
Bingo! My fuse was blown. Many glass fuses will show some sort of blackness and mine did, as well as being able to see the actual glob of metal where the fuse burst.
What caused a fuse to blow will be different for each machine. I believe in my case it suffered from a power surge. There were no visible signs of burns from arcing, popped capacitors, shorts or bad chips. The board was completely clean, which tells me the issue was near the power source. The fuse may also have been on the verge of popping when I unplugged and reconnected the power cord.
Everything's speculation, but replacing the fuse did the trick in my case and I saved myself time and about $150 (on average for a used PS on eBay). I picked up a second fuse to tape to the inside of the CPU, near the power supply, so I will have a backup fuse if I need it in the future. I may also have a drive that is going bad, or I may have too many drives operating off one supply. My Mac's been configured like this for about five years now. I will replace at least two drives with new, larger capacity drives. I keep my video and digital image files on separate drives, but have a third drive I can blow out. That surely will help prolong the life of my power supply.
While I had the computer apart I gave it a good vacuum and a little air can action. Dust can aid overheating and defeat the purpose of good airflow from fans.
Hope this helps.

Is my Video Card/Display going bad??

My display has 30-50 vertical columns, from top to bottom, across the screen. Within each column, are numerous vertical lines, like bar codes, that are pink in color. This situation happens at start up before any applications are opened. The computer(apps) works like normal, mail, safari, etc, except these lines are always in my view, on the desktop or window/page. If I "grab" a page to move it , then the whole page turns pink. If I click off of the page and then return, the page looks normal again, except for the columns of pink, vertical bars.
Is this my display going bad or video card?? I have the ATI Radeon X850 XT video card. If it's the video card , do I replace with a new old stock (ATI Radeon X850 XT) or can I replace with a newer, better card??
Any help GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!! I'm Very Novice at this!!

Hi-
Sounds very much like a baked graphics processor.
Have you tried cleaning the dust from the card?
Is the fan on the card clean and rotating freely?
If you are at all mechanically inclined, removing the fan and reapplying thermal compound is worth a try before laying out serious cash.
As for replacement, the X850XT was the top card ever offered by Apple.
It is also THE most rare.
Because of this, they command high prices:
http://www.welovemacs.com/6613594r.html
eBay also has a number of them for similar prices.
Radeon X850XT
can I replace with a newer, better card??
Only one option for better.
A flashed (converted PC version) Geforce 7800GS:
http://www.barefeats.com/mutant3a.html
At less than half the price of the X850XT, it is worth considering:
Geforce 7800 GS.

Sound goes off, goes bad then effects the PC

I'm a tumblr user and I spend most of my time there on my computer. Recently videos sounds started to go off after a few loops. Then it completely goes off or goes bad like the audio damaged terribly. Even the system slows down. When I checked other sites their sounds are bad too and even chrome or something I listen from winamp gets effected. I checked my sound settings and try to test the sound then I got an error messege saying "Failed to play test tone". It gets normal after restart.
So I thought it's hopeless and I was even thinking of formatting my pc. But when I used chrome all day I didn't encounter this problem at all.

Some problems with Flash video playback can be resolved by disabling hardware acceleration in your Flash Player settings. (See [[Flash Plugin - Keep it up to date and troubleshoot problems|this article]] for more information on using the Flash plugin in Firefox).
To disable hardware acceleration in Flash Player:
#Go to this [http://helpx.adobe.com/flash-player/kb/video-playback-issues.html#main_Solve_video_playback_issues Adobe Flash Player Help page].
#Right-click on the Flash Player logo on that page.
#Click on '''Settings''' in the context menu. The Adobe Flash Player Settings screen will open.
# Click on the icon at the bottom-left of the Adobe Flash Player Settings window to open the Display panel. <br/> <br/>[[Image:fpSettings1.PNG]] <br/>
# Remove the check mark from '''Enable hardware acceleration'''.
# Click '''Close''' to close the Adobe Flash Player Settings Window.
# Restart Firefox.
This [http://www.macromedia.com/support/documentation/en/flashplayer/help/help01.html Flash Player Help - Display Settings page] has more information on Flash Player hardware acceleration, if you're interested.
Does this solve the problem? Let us know.

Drive going bad - Best way to save files?

Hi,
I've got a drive with a bad directory. I can't boot from it, but it does mount. I get a warning that it's in a special mode and that I should get all my data off of it. I have several partial backups around, but I'd like to make one good backup of everything before I start trying to change anything on the drive.
Dragging and dropping everything via the finder into a folder on another drive didn't work. I got an error message saying some files could not be read and wouldn't be copied and I don't know which files those are.
Suggestions, please?

Thanks, but I'm having trouble making that work.
It's a long story, but the only drive I have that's bigger than the drive that's going bad is the one in my Time Capsule (please don't ask why I don't have a good, recent backup on my Time Capsule. Believe me, I wish I did). I have tried using ditto to copy files to a new folder on the Time Capsule, but it is veeeeerrrrrrrrrryyyy slow.
As a test, I tried dittoing some files to a different external drive and the job was done quickly.
Is there some difference between the Time Capsule and another external hard drive?
The Time Capsule is connected via Ethernet and the other external drive is connected via USB.
I'm really confused as to why this didn't work and would appreciate any insight anyone has.
Thanks,
Thad

Ipad keyboard is bad placed in IOS6.1.2 it is on the center of the screen does it have fix?

ipad keyboard is bad placed in IOS6.1.2 it is on the center of the screen does it have fix?
it is in safari and other apps

Hold down on the Keyboard key, (bottom right of the keyboard) and drag it down, or press and hold on the keyboard key and tap on the "Dock.and Merge" option from the menu that comes up.

My IMac 21.5 mid 2010's HD is going bad on it, after upgrading to mavericks it slowed way down and after it shut off and now won't come back on, would Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB Serial ATA Hard Drive - 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6Gb/s worked?

My IMac 21.5 mid 2010's HD is going bad on it, after upgrading to mavericks it slowed way down and after it shut off and now won't come back on, I call apple support and they told me to bring it in but the nearest store is about two hours away. They said I need it to erase my hard drive but I have too many family pics on it.
would Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB Serial ATA Hard Drive - 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6Gb/s worked on it? I could replace the internal and get an enclosure for the original until I get the pics out of it?
Please advise, it's like five years of family pics I don't wanna loose them and I am worried.
Thanks
Al Florez

A Brody,
I really apprecate your very quick respond, Its too late to back up as of now, my hard drive wont load at all so I cannot follow your instruction to back it up. Learn a hard lesson but I will from now on following your link.
Also my hard drive it is not available to do the free exchange program.
I read the OWC instruction on how to replace the drive I was just wondering if the 2TB would work on it instead of the 1 TB they offer, I specifically asked for the Seage Barracuda because I had great experiences with it on PCs.
Again, Thank you

Could both my internal drives be going bad at once?

i posted an issue a moment ago about a write protection warning, which has never happened. so i run disk utility on this particular drive - and it stops half way through with a random error!
ok, so i start dumping files onto my other internal drive like a mad man. and what do you know? when i try and open the particular folder on the backup drive which holds the data i just copied over, my system stalls for about 10 seconds and then apparently restarts my finder!
could it be that both my drives are going bad at once? what could be causing this madness. i ran disk utility on the backup drive and it went without a hitch, but solved nothing.
please help!

Save your contents of your user folders to a external drive that you know that works in addition to the other internal. Especially your iTunes folder and User/name/Library/Safari & Mail folders contents.
You might have something going wrong with your boot drive, it could be a bad sector, a bad OS install, corrupted OS file who the heck knows, but it's looking like your going to need to Erase with Zero option in DU (to eliminate bad sectors) and reinstall Tiger fresh, use your same name, drive name and password, update, install apps from fresh sources (don't use Migration Assistant, doesn't do copy protection and copies blindly) and copy those folders mentioned above back to the same location.
If that doesn't work, it could be a mechanical problem, which the drive needs to be replaced under warranty or AppleCare. Give them a call and they can send you a new one and you can replace it yourself, holding your CC hostage until they receive the bad one.
Later once your back up and running, learn to clone your boot drive to a external drive just for cases like this. It's boot-able, you can fix the original drive, you can copy files over and just erase and reverse clone.
It will save your bacon. Read my text docs.
http://homepage.mac.com/hogfish
Oh if you do a fresh install, might as well do Tiger and iLife 06 in the process.

Disk device going bad on Notebook

Getting alerts that disc device is going bad on my HP 2000 Notebook PC, and says I need to back up my files or I will lose them. Says the Disc name is Hitachi HTS543232A7A384 SATA Disc Device Volume:C:\;D:\ I contacted HP tech support and they said it needs to be replaced. I don't know anything about computers so I have a lot of questions. Is this disc the "Hard Drive" for my PC? Approximately how much will it cost to get it fixed? Would it be cheaper to get a new PC? (paid $300 for this PC) What would make the disc go bad after only a year and a half? Was it caused from a virus? If I continue to use my PC until it completely stops working, will it do more harm? I used my Norton 360 to back up my files but I don't know what I'm doing. Do I need to configure it somehow or does Norton automatically know what to save? Will Norton save things like pictures and Emails or does it only save things that make the PC operate? If anyone can answer any of these questions, I would appreciate the help. Thanks!

Answered here:
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Hardware-Upgrades-Replacements/Notebook-disc-device-going-bad/m-p/42312...

Keyboard going bad

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