Keyboard Mappings for Late 2008 MacBook Pro

Hi
I have found the keyboard mappings for older models of the MacBook Pro (shown below) but I can't find the same article for the new keyboard on my new late 2008 MacBook Pro.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1220
Thanks!

Hey Bigtalex712!
I have an article here for you that can provide some troubleshooting steps for this issue:
Intel-based Mac notebooks: Troubleshooting unresponsive trackpad issues
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1248
Take care, and thanks for visiting the Apple Support Communities.
-Braden

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Welcome to Apple Support Communities
In OS X, Apple provides the GPU drivers and you cannot update them from NVIDIA. They are updated with each OS X update, so you are running the most recent drivers for your OS X version. OS X Mountain Lion and Mavericks have got more recent GPU drivers, but it's not worth upgrading unless you need newer drivers for an app (I highly doubt this).
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The link you posted above is for a WD drive,....dont get it.   WD drives (some) have SMS sensor coflicts with Mac, and the consumer grade western digital HD are the worst you can buy.
Same as used by Apple below, best option, cheapest price.
best likewise replacement 1TB 9.5mm Toshiba
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-1TB-MQ01ABD100-HDKBB96A1A01-2-5-5400RPM-Laptop-N otebook-9-5mm-HDD-/171120091488?pt=US_Internal_Hard_Disk_Drives&hash=item27d78d 6 160
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Stockdizzle
I will need to clone the current drive before it fails; is there an article in this forum on that?
Easy, 3 clicks and sit back and let Superduper CLONE your HD.....about 40 mins average.
Superduper is free and most of the pros use it (or carbon copy cloner)
http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html
See instruction and get software there<     very very easy to do

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Only problem is that maybe the battery you were sold was manufactured around the same time as the Mac. And LiPo batteries die because of old age as well as use. Take it out and carefully examine all markings, especially anything that can date when it was made, like copyrights or such.
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I'm looking to upgrade my old Macbook Pro 15, late 2008 model and would like to ask for recommendations from anyone with experience here. I'd like to get a 500GB range SSD. Both link speed and negotiated link speed are 3, which I think is SATA III correct? Any recommendations on the optimum drive that will boost performance for this setup?
Thanks in advance!!

A 500 GB SSD will be $250-300. Why would you throw that kind of money to such an old machine which is very underpowered by today's standards?

Are there genuine replacements available for battery in late 2008 macbook pro?

are there genuine replacement batteries available for a late 2008 macbook pro?

Probably your only hope, based on your description, is a SMC reset:
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295
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You might check to see if all your apps and system add-ons you commonly use are compatible first. If that's your only computer, you might wait a bit yet.
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MacOSG Founder/Ambassador  An Apple User Group  iTunes: MacOSG Podcast
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I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro, I am trying to run MW3 but it will not work without crashing a few minuets into the game. The general specs on my computer are a dual processor 2.53 ghz. 4 gb ram and a NVIDIA geforce 9400 (9600 is the alternate card)

I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro, I am trying to run MW3 but it will not work without crashing a few minuets into the game. The general specs on my computer are a dual processor 2.53 ghz. 4 gb ram and a NVIDIA geforce 9400 (9600 is the alternate card).
Things to note:
I have been unable to update firmware on this computer for about a year now. Im not sure why.
I am running a bootleg copy of Windows XP on this computer, I would not like to spend $149 to get Windows 7 if possible.
any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Why don't you take your 'old' MBP into your local Apple Store and have them check out everything that's wrong with it - and I mean everything? Then, when you get an estimate about how much it would cost to get the machine completely repaired, ask about the Apple flat-rate repair pricing?
It's worth a shot - and with what you may save, you can put in the bank for a new MBP.
Clinton

I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro last updated to Mavericks OS. The screen died and it's not worth replacing. How do I remove the hard drive and use a drive sled to access info I need?

I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro last updated to the Mavericks OS. The screen died and I took it into an Apple store and was told replacing the screen and the hardware to repair everything would cost almost as much as buying a new laptop or a cheaper model. I was told that I can use a drive sled to access data I need on my hard drive. How do I remove my hard drive and use a drive sled to get to the information I need? What makes matters more complicated is I need to update my iPhone and my iTunes/App store purchases. How can I accomplish this?
My wife has a late 2008 Macbook Pro as well, which I am assuming I need to run my hard drive. Is there a way to just access just my hard drive without interfering with hers?
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the device you need is an External enclosure for a 2.5" (laptop form factor) SATA drive.
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Hi all,
I am an happy user of a late 2008 MacBook pro.
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But let's start from the beginning: the hard drive
By googling for a while, I noticed that several people experienced very slow performance of their late 2008 MacBook Pro. That is also my case. Apparently, this is due to the hard disk which is dying, and then I considering to change it. However, I haven't found answers to these questions:
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- If I go a Mac Reseller shop, will do they perform this operation? And how much does it costs to make it? Or I may also go to some generic computer reparation guy?
- Is it convenient to save all the data (movies, documents, pictures, emails, etc) somewhere (e.g. external HD) and then perform a completely new installation?
Next, let's consider the battery.
Here is a screenshot taken with iStat Pro:
Do you think it is worth changing it? From System Profile I have those other info:
Full charge capacity (mAh):          3386
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Condition:          Replace soon
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Hi!
Thanks for all the answer. Please let me to resume this old and interesting discussion.
After having evaluated several solutions (including NAS, different ways of backup, etc) I bought an external firewire HDD, since I believe it nicely fits my necessities. Next, after these holidays, I will finally replace my old HDD with a SSD one. I think 120 GB are ok. I just need the apps and small-sized documents (rather LaTeX, Matlab, word, pages or excel documents, etc. - no movies or mp3 (I have Spotify, for that) ). Large files (e.g. movies, pictures, etc) may end up in external firewire HDD.
Now, let's consider the OS. I currently have 10.6.8 and I am very satisfied of that. I find it very stable, and all the apps I need are still well supported. On the other hand, given that there are like 5 years that I have the same installation, I may have a lot of obsolete files and setting that I can safely remove. This means that once I will have performed a backup of my documents, my email, my pictures etc. I can safely throw away all the rest. Hence, I may perform a brand-new installation of the OS. Although I am happy with 10.6.8, I was wondering if it is worth to upgrade it (I have a 2.53 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo - 4 GB 1067 Mhz DDR3 RAM) to Lion, Mountain Lion or Mavricks. In that case, which would be the real benefits? And what about the cons?
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Is there anyway of directly connecting a Late 2008 MacBook Pro to a MacBook Pro, with retina, in a Target Disk Mode way without having to wait for the magical adapter in July?
Should I go to the Apple Store, buy a normal MacBook Pro, use it to do the transfer, and return it?
Thanks to anyone for taking the time to answer.

Erica M31 wrote:
Is there anyway of directly connecting a Late 2008 MacBook Pro to a MacBook Pro, with retina, in a Target Disk Mode way without having to wait for the magical adapter in July?
There is Setup Assistant when you first boot the new Mac, over wireless it's supposed to migrate for you, however I hear it can take hours and days to complete.
http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/MacBook_Pro_Retina_QuickStart.pdf
Another faster method would be to use the free/donations Carbon Copy Cloner the old Mac to a blank USB3, 2,1 drive, then hook it up to the new Mac and use Setup Assistant (or Migration Assistant) that way, it will think it's another Mac.
You can also simply drag and drop files into a same named account on the new machine manually from the clone.
It should take about a hour per 250GB to clone, about another hour for Setup Assistant.
Over wireless it could take a eternity.

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Hello all. I have a Late 2008 Macbook Pro 15", MacPro5,1. A few months back my dog ate the power adapter (unplugged, thankfully.) I thought I did the proper amount of research to order the correct adapter from a third party on Amazon, because I'm pretty darn broke and need to save every penny I can. When I got the adapter, the connector was different from the one that came with my Macbook Pro. It was 85W, all the numbers matched up, but the style was different. But, the plug worked enough to let me get the work done that I needed, so it didn't concern me too much.
That is, until this cord just stopped working. That's what I get for getting a third party cable from China off Amazon.
So now, I'm trying to research again to make sure I'm getting the right cable, and I want one that's made by Apple, and is exactly like the one that came in the box when I bought my Macbook Pro new. I went to MacSales.com and checked their compatibility pages, and ran into some issues. What is showing as compatible with my Mac is the 85W Magsafe MC556LL/A, but this is shown with the incorrect connector (like the one I got off Amazon.)
When I looked at the other adapters that were available, I found the MagSafe 2 85W MD506LL/A, which has a connector that looks like the original, but it only shows as compatible with 2012+ Retina Display Macbook Pros.
So, do I have to buy the MagSafe that is not like the original that came with my Macbook Pro, or can I get the MagSafe 2 that does match what I got out of the box?
Reference pages from MacSales.com:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/MC556LLA/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/MD506LLA/

Thanks! I didn't realize there was a revision, but that makes sense. I guess I don't understand they would change it, then use the original design for the later Retina Display models. Oh well, as long as it works!
On a similar note, is OWC the best option for a cheap Apple-brand adapter? They're selling them for $47, when the cheapest I can find anywhere else is like $75. They seem pretty reputable with all the options and Apple-specific stuff they offer, I just didn't want to make the same mistake again and would like other options if they are available.
Thanks again!

How many hours does a brand new battery last after fully charged. I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro.

How many hours does a brand new battery last after fully charged. I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro.

clintonfrombirmingham is right, there is no way to exactly tell. But from personal experience, a new battery on a 2008 will last for about 2 1/2 hours with a higher screen brightness and doing something taxing to the battery (like gaming or running lots of 3D programs). But if you're just listening to music with the brightness all the way down, and no programs running, you could get up to 12 hours. So for average use, it should last you a whole business day (assuming you don't use it more than 30% 0f the time). Hope this kind of gives you more of an idea of what to expect:)

Late 2008 Macbook Pro doesn't boot after installing Mavericks

I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro, dual core 2.53 GHZ, 4 GB Ram (2x2).
I've been tearing my hair out trying to get this computer to boot up. Many things have been tried here. So here's the history.
Before starting this, I was running 10.6.8 on this computer.
First time I tried to install Mavericks, the installation failed, and when the computer went to restart, it just went in a loop, never really booting up, just getting the to gray screen with the apple symbol, spinning the wheel, and then going black again, restarting, and repeat. So, I took it into the Apple Genius Bar, and they diagnosed a bad battery. I replaced the battery, and had them do a clean restore back to 10.6.8.
I got it home, and tried to do an install again. This time, I downloaded the installer, and put in on an external firewire drive, and attempted to do a clean install of Mavericks. I ended up with the same boot failure problem.
I went back to the apple genius bar, and even though the diagnotics said my harddrive was fine, they said in the troubleshooting list, that the harddrive with the first thing they suspected. So, I replaced the harddrive. I did the Mavericks install again from an external HD, and for a moment, everything was great. It booted up into Mavericks. But, after my first restart, the problem was boot failure was back.
After reading a few articles, I tried booting in Safe mode. That worked. I also ran disk repair on the HD and it looked great. Still, it won't boot up out of Safe mode.
After being very frustrated, I tried just installing snow leopard from the dvd, but the install keeps failing.
Not sure what to do next.

Micajah10,
rather than a hard drive problem, you might have a faulty internal SATA cable. Do you have an external disk enclosure, or a SATA-to-USB or SATA-to-FireWire adapter? If you can boot from your hard drive without problems when it’s external, but it remains problematic internally, then that could point to the internal SATA cable as the culprit.

Crack in screen (late 2008 MacBook Pro)

Hello everyone,
I have searched the 'net and this forum about cracked screens, and have found a lot of useful information, but wanted to post this and ask a few questions anyway, as I haven't found exactly what I am looking for.
My late 2008 MacBook Pro screen cracked just tonight. The crack begins near the bottom left, in the black border along the bottom, horizontal edge of the screen. From there, it goes up a few cm above the black border, curves to almost horizontal, and then curves and goes back down to the horizontal edge, about 2 inches from where it began. So, it is a very small crack that goes up from the bottom edge, over just a little, and then right back down to the edge. It is barely noticable doing normal work. The crack can not get longer since it goes up and back down to the edge. I suppose the only way it could get worse is to deepen (you can barely feel it) and cause other problems. I tried to take a picture for this thread, but the crack doesn't even show in a picture. My questions:
(1) If I don't get this fixed, what are the chances it will damage the display over time? Will it create lines and/or green/blue/etc. spots or anything else? Could it cause other problems to the computer?
(2) What do you reccommend as the best way to go about fixing this if I decide to do so? I know my local Apple Store will fix it, but I also know they'll charge more than I probably want to spend. Other solutions? Positive experiences?
It kind of saddens me to see it; crazy as that may sound! This has been (still is) a great notebook (I even purchased AppleCare, which I never needed) that went with me through making my first full length film.
Thank you in advance for help concerning this issue.

I uswed to have that problem in my Macbook OPro early 2008, and I ordered an LCD panel, it's a Samsung 15.4 inches LED panel, then I disassembled MBP, involved more than 40 screws and very delicate parts removal and reassemble. It cost me US$ 120 and 2.5 ghours to do.
But if you take it to Mac Service Center, they will change the whole lid and thjat will copst you more than US$ 600

Keyboard Mappings for Late 2008 MacBook Pro

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