Keynoard Crazy in Mac OS X 10.9.4

Hello.
I just installed the OS X 10.9.4 thirty minutes ago and when the computer restated, a notification appeared, and it said that the calendar plugin was not installed (something like that, I don't remember the exact text).
The computer was stuck so I decided to force a restart. After that, all seemed ok until I tried to use skype/word or any application that required the keyboard. When I press a key, t is like I pressed another one; for example when I press the a the computer types a/ , when I press m the computer types m;. The problem is that when I press the X it erases everything I've written. I've tried to restart it again and it does not seem to correct the bug. Does anyone have experienced the same bug? Does anyone know how to fix this?
I don't have the time machine set up.
Thank you.
Miguel

Hi Miguel,
Welcome to Apple Support Communities.
Take a look at the article linked below, it has a lot of great tips which may resolve the keyboard issue that you described.
One or more keys on the keyboard do not respond
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1381
I hope this helps.
-Jason

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Crazy acting mac!

Cool forum, thank God I found this. I am a big time mac fan...love them to death. But I have a Powermac Dual G4 1.25 that has been acting crazy. One day after I loaded 10.5 on it....It would freeze up all the time. I changed the memory, and then it stopped. Then started again. Now I reverted back 10.4, and it is still doing it. If I leave it on, and it goes to sleep, when I wake it..it stalls. I tried to reinstall 10.5 and then it would stall out when trying to select a boot media. i've tried different memory too...I tried 2700 512, which is in there now...and 3200 1gb. Which i took thinking it may be the problem...it will stall on anything..Even if im just surf'n the web. it will stall...Does anyone know what this could be. I dont have the AHT disk...Does anyone have access to it...?

Easily could be the HD, lifespan is about 3-5 years anymore.
RAM may be a problem but much harder to track down.
Did you try Zeroing the drive yet? that may allow a good install...
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc that came with your computer, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.
3. Click the Erase tab.
4. Click the disclosure triangle to the left of the hard drive icon to display the names of your hard disk volumes and partitions.
5. Select your Mac OS X volume, then choose MacOS Extended Journalled, select the Partition tab.
6. Click Erase & look for Security Options. choose Zero 1 pass."

Crazy G5 Mac - revised

One other question....does anyone know why the high pitched tor/horn come on prior to the start-up chime. Does anyone know what this symbolizes (such as bad memory, video card, hdd, swithc bad, etc). Or do I have the only crazy g5 in existence????? Any knowledge would be extremely helpful.
Thanks

I know, but that's the problem. If you just push the power button to turn on and release all you should hear is the start-up chime. Instead, the tone comes on after a few seconds and then the start-up chime. It won't do anything after that. To set mvram, you hold the start button in until the tone comes on and then you can set the nvram reset. It's almost like the start button is stuck but it's not. Also, to turn it off with the power (start), I used to have to hold it in for a few seconds to turn off. Now as soon as you push it, it's off. Almost instant. This g5 has run flawlessly, I shut it down (with the timer) last night. Turned it on this morning and that's where it is up to now.????????
I thought it might be a hardware failure warning but I've checked everything, even replaced the ram & harddrive. Any insight on or if anyone has had this tone, let me know, bout ready to shoot it and go back to my pc.
Thanks

.mac mail - This is crazy

Just upgraded to Tiger 10.4.3. All mail accounts work fine except .mac mail
Under 10.3.9 my .mac mail account acted just like any other POP mail account. Is there any way to set up Mail in Tiger to have .mac mail work as a POP account?
I shouldn't have to:
1. Get my mail through .mac web mail
2. Sync the mail box
3. Rebuild the mailbox
It's stupid to have to log on to .mac web mail and read my mail in order to have it delivered to me through Mail app.
I can't forward my mail from .mac to my normal ISP because I often receive large files (customer artwork) that my ISP is gonna block because of size. That's why I HAVE a .mac mail account in the first place! It's CRAZY!
Am I doing something wrong? Help would be greatly appreciated!
swampy

Ernie,
I'm not sure why you mentioned the URL references you did, since they confirm pretty much everything I have said. The POP concept is centered around the idea that mail is held on the server until downloaded; IMAP that it is held indefinitely on the server until it receives a specific request to delete it.
A little thought should make it obvious that neither POP nor IMAP can possibly determine if all computers have had a chance to download a message -- neither knows anything about how many computers or other information devices might be authorized to do so. POP can handle this by allowing a client to request that messages not be deleted after downloading them; IMAP, by allowing a client to request that they be deleted at any time. Not all client software has this ability.
Regarding knowing which messages have been read, IMAP manages this for the inbox, which represents messages that may or may not also be stored locally on a client. Local mailboxes are still managed by the client, which might confuse some users not aware of the difference. I don't consider this a failure of IMAP or of .Mac but more of a problem with client software like Mail, which doesn't make the distinction between locally & remotely stored mail as clear as it could be.
More than anything else, I think this is what drives people crazy about .Mac, IMAP, et al. It's all well & good to have a consistent looking interface & a single app to handle all your mail, but unless you know where all your mail is stored, there is no way it will make sense.

Mac Performa 405 buzzing noise

Whenever I turn on my Mac Performa 405 after a while it starts to make a buzzing noise. I am almost positive that this noise is coming from the add-on Motorola 68882 FPU installed into the socket on my Asante MCiLC LC PDS network card. What can I do about this noise? It's driving me crazy & the Mac has also frozen once before briefly (it was running for hours on end though). Somehow a couple of minutes later Mac OS 7.5.5 managed to unfreeze itself. When I upgrade to Mac OS 7.6.1 will my FPU be better supported? The Mac has 12 MB of RAM though it only sees 10 MB too. Virtual Memory is also turned on since I'm trying to get Cyberdog 2.0 to run. Cyberdog 2.0 also freezes the Mac whenever I try to go to Apple's Support site too.

Craigwd_2000
It is characteristic of the Colour Classic, CC II, Performa 250, LC II, Performas 40x, and others that I wot not of from direct experience, that the lowest 2MB of 12MB installed are not addressed by the MMU. Pointless, but true. Add 2 x 2MB to the base 4MB and 8MB wil be used. Add 2 x 4MB and only the top 10MB will be used. If you feel limited by this, replace the LC II logic board with a Q 605 board and add a 32MB (or 128MB) 72-pin SIMM. My Elsie sings with the latter combination, and can run OS 8.1 with aplomb. With more RAM you wil be able to abandon Cyberdog (unless you wish to savour the agonies), and accommodate other applications with greater memory demands.
As far as the buzz goes, you can confirm the cause as electrical or mechanical (eg, the fan) by muting the speaker output, removing the FPU (if it is socketted) or the card if it is not, detaching the 4-pin power plug from the HDD or the cable from the FDD, and so on, one at a time.
You need only to elevate the rear of the case, as has been suggested, to increase ventilation enough. Given that, and the inner cleanliness that so-and-so's tonic water can produce ... you can find the source of the noise by attacking the suspects systematically. The speaker is awkwardly situated for direct listening, but you can do it with the case top off. Make sure of the security of the cables routed around the speaker, in case one or other is loose and being struck by the fan.
Apple IIe; 68K: 11DT + 4PB; PPC: 5DT + 3PB; G3: 6DT System 6.0.8 to OS 10.4.x

How do I create a new real instrument track?

I know this question sounds stupid, but i have plugged my m-audio fasttrack usb in and i have followed ALL of the instructions. now i can't seem to be able to hear my guitar through the computer speakers, and garageband isnt picking up a guitar signal. also, when i go to "new track" and i select "real instrument" i cant create the track because the button is not highlited (or whatever, i just can't click it) SOMEONE HELP!! ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY!
Mac Mini Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Zowie! Thanks. I was goin' cuckoo, till I dropped in on this thread. I could record into Garage Band through the built-in mic in my PowerBook, but when I plugged in my cool little Tascam US-122 usb audio interface (even with all my input and output prefs properly set), I couldn't record a thing through a real mic. The sound inputs were definitely getting into the computer, but for some reason Garage Band wasn't recording them. I quit outta GB, then dumped the .plist and .cs prefs as you suggested. Re-opened GB and created a new track. Bingo! My Tascam unit now works like a charm. Thanks again, much.
G-4 PowerBook Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Why are my iCal events not the same across views?

Help! I've been editing my iCal in Month view and everything looks great... but then I look at the day view (or week, whatever) and it's not the same. For example, in Month view for July 2 - I have one event scheduled from 8:30-noon. Then I look at the day view... and there are 8 different events! Most of them duplicates of different things that I had at one time or another deleted or changed. Why didn't the "clean up" work that I did in the month view carry over to day or week view? In fact the opposite, there are more things in day or week views than I ever created.
Recently upgraded to Lion from Snow Leopard. Recently changed from mobileme to iCloud. I only have iCal set to my iCloud account (no "on my mac" iCal calendar data). So the problem I see when editing on my MacBookPro is also seen when logged into iCloud directly via Safari and on my iPhone, iPad, etc. At first I thought this was an iCloud syncing error because I only noticed the difference on my phone (list view)... but when I went back to my MacBookPro I realized the problem exists there too... so doesn't seem to be a syncing error, but rather a "view" error... then the "problem" is mirrored everywhere.
I've tried "refresh" and "refresh all" from the Calendar drop down menu. This does nothing to help the problem... not that I really expected it would.
Thanks for any help you can provide. I'm going crazy!
Mac OS X 10.7.4; iCal 5.0.3

Fixed my own problem. Ultamately a user error but tied to the many threads about the month view defaulting events to "all day" vs. hourly increment. I knew that was the case, so when editing events from month view I made sure to add/change the time, but negected to look at "To" date. If my event was for an hour, simply adding the hour pushed the day to span across dates so the event was really 25 hours. Looked OK in the month view (just showed as a dot) but the day and week were all filled and casued the event to appear twice on the second day in list view (iPhone). In the case of repeat events, sometimes "To" date ended up as the end date for the repeat cycle... which really messed every thing up... I believe causing what looked like duplicates, etc.

More hard-drives = faster Virtual Memory ? or not...

2 internal HD's... only one is being used for Virtual Memory. If both were being used, it could double VM disk access - simultaneously uploading.
I know that buying Crazy Expensive Mac Pro RAM would sort the problem out, but i ain't going to do that any time too soon. Besides i might get a new hard-drive... and 3 drives should be able to do VM noticably faster.
does anybody know if i can set the second drive as a VM scratch disk also ?
- or what part of mac os x controls these Virtual Memory and disks and if that can be tweaked
- or are there any good little apps for controlling VM?
Thanks peeps.
nicholas.

Thanks.
I'm not going to do that, though it is certainly of interest. I had a thread on another board which went from "use a raid single" to "you cheepscate buy ram" too quickly for my liking.
Of interest from that was :
1) Not having ram is bad when it hits disk VM - that's the slow bit.
1.1) so if you buy a little, that will raise the ceiling and you'll hit VM less often. Every titchy bit helps.
2) if you never go beyond your ram - more ram is wasted.
3) with some EXPERT tweaking performance can be gained from controlling where VM pages to - but really either buy ram or use less apps.
4) the reason i brought it up was flight sim mode on google earth (apple alt a). Which is a waste of time anyway ! But that sometimes freezes and writes to disk for 5-10 seconds. My professional apps, are almost always in ram, so i think i'll forget it. Or buy ram.
5) if you want to know if you need ram - look at activity monitor - but combine "free AND inactive" to see how much/little is spare. Also read the "vm page ins".. if there are lots (7,000 in 10 minutes) you're into slow VM land.
really... it's only apparent because the mac pro is lightning fast most of the time, and WHEN you're waiting on the HD - even though it's still running really fast - it is more apparent.
Thanks everyone. Happy Mac'in.

FED UP with dropped Airport connections!

Okay, a little history here. I've been a Mac user for 20+ years. I know my way around these machines. I have a Mac Pro and a Mac Book, and when they were running Tiger I had zero problems with Airport connections in either case.
However, since I upgraded to Leopard about a year ago, I've had nothing but problems with Airport. The connection drops out every few minutes on both of my machines. Sometimes it re-establishes itself, but other times I have to do it manually. About 50% of the time, it doesn't connect at all. It asks me for my password (which is saved automatically) and when I hit 'return' it says the password is incorrect (it's not).
I've tried three different base stations (AX, AEBS & now D-Link DIR-655) and the problem remains, and I have it on both my Mac Book and brand new Mac Pro. So it would seem that it's a flaw with Airport & Leopard.
It got so bad that I finally set up an Ethernet network in my office. That was fine but we had to reconfigure the rooms and I needed to set up the wireless network again. I did that, and of course I had the exact same problem I was having before. The connection on both the MacBook and Mac Pro drops in and out intermittently. It's not a reception issue because it happens when both computers and the router are all in the same room.
If anyone has any ideas or suggestions on what to do, I'd love to hear them. OS X and Airport software is all up to date. I recently did a clean install of OS X on the MacBook just to make sure there wasn't a software conflict causing the problem, but that didn't help.
This is driving me crazy!

Mac OS X doesn't have a clean install option:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=607614
So unless you did an erase and install, you can't say you have eliminated any potential hardware issue with your machine.
Linda P, Astriker, and anyone who does not have a solution for Badlydrawnboy, please start a new topic thread below:
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1222&start=0
You'll make it harder to get a solution for them as the causes of wireless failure are many. My FAQ* here below discusses the most common reasons, which have existed since the first version of airport many years ago:
http://www.macmaps.com/WIFI1048.html
The fact that multiple base stations were tried, and multiple machines were tried, says the issue is external to both! It means to me, that you have something interfering with your wireless connection that you haven't considered. Piping in the walls, file cabinets in line of sight, external wireless networks on the same channel, microwave ovens, wireless land line phones can all contribute to WiFi's demise.
- * Links to my pages may give me compensation.

Help! heavy pixelation in idvd

Hi everyone-- I've seen different posts dealing with different aspects of this problem...
Heavy pixelation in my disk -- seen on monitor AND on TV -- the original FCP output does not have this problem.
Here are my project specs:
75 minutes (approx) black and white.
Captured using a Canopus ADVC110
Edited and prepared using FCP 4.5
Burned on iDVD 5.0.1
If choose "performance" (with or without background encoding) then the project size in the media window is 5.0 gigs. If I choose "best quality" it is 2.5 -- Why? -- Note that neither choice affects what the DVD looks like, though it does determine whether I have to create more coasters with either DL or single layer disks. They look the same, however, as I said.
I tried exporting without compression from FCP, and the file is 50 gigs. If I use DV compression it comes out at something like 15. They look the same, largely, on my monitor, and both are highly pixelated on the finished disk.
Obviously, I'm doing something wrong. I really don't like iDVD and will eventually upgrade to something else. But, right now I need to get this project finished.
Any thoughts? Please help -- this is driving me crazy.
g5 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

thanks... this is helpful.
ok, then, so here is a question: is best performance BETTER than best quality? i was assuming that best QUALITY meant better quality image. is that not so?
i noticed that when i choose Performance, it does the encoding in the background. then it seems to encode again. At first, I thought that was why it was so pixelated, that it was a second generation processing.
choosing QUALITY did not allow for background encoding, and i thought fine: i can live with a long wait for a once-compressed version.
please advise.
in the meantime, i will try making a disk image and burning that in disk burning tool.
if the problem can clearly be isolated as iDVD, then i'm happy to bite my lip and go buy more from apple.
as far as disk space, i had this g5 dual shipped with 2gigs of ram and an additional 2 400g drives== so it's not space, though i will make more room on the system drive... i should be able to burn DL disks because it says I can-- and they work as data DVDs okay.
thanks for your help

ITunes 7 skips when i scroll through songs

when i scroll through songs on my Windows XP iTunes, it starts skipping like crazy. Mac is supposed to be a good company, it really shouldn't take them this long to respond to these egregious errors and bugs. not saying windows is better, but i expect more out of apple. iTunes is the most popular music program, but that doesn't give Apple the right to be lazy.
Windows XP

my iTunes is doing the same thing. it gets all scratchy when my songs are playing! is there like an update or something to fix this ???

Imac screen white differences

Maybe just a hint for all that are suffering from an Imac that has gray shades (differences in brightness) at the bottom of the display.
As being a technician I opened my Imac (which is very easy) and found out that the connector of the bottom fluorescent light had come loose.
After putting it in to place and assembling the whole thing the display looks better than ever. I really love this computer

Hi i found a crazy japanese mac site that they had already open up the new aluminium iMac
i still dare not try to open it up might void warranty zzz
This iMac display is definitely bad compare my 23" Apple display
Check it out
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/trurlpagecontent?lp=ja_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kodawarisan.com%2fimac_2007_mid%2fim ac_2007_mid01.html

My macbook seems to be going crazy. At certain points (and for hours) I get the oh snap page on chrome, safari doesnt work, macbook wont let me create any files or for example upload music to itunes. I restored my mac so im sure its not a malware problem.

My macbook seems to be going crazy. At certain points (and for hours) I get the oh snap page on chrome, safari doesnt work, macbook wont let me create any files or for example upload music to itunes. I restored my mac so im sure its not a malware problem. The only thing that solves it is switching off and on , but sometimes I have to do that for 6-7 times before its ok or wait for a few hours. Some help please

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.”
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your personal files or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
*Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of Steps 1 and 2.

I can no longer back up my iphone to my computer on selecting 'sync'. I can back up to iCloud but I get an error message telling me I cannot backup to my Mac. Can any one help? It's driving me crazy!

I can no longer back up my iphone to my computer on selecting 'sync'. I can back up to iCloud but I get an error message telling me I cannot backup to my Mac. Can any one help? It's driving me crazy!

Hello joelfromn. charleston,
It seems you are unable to activate iMessage on a device with no carrier service. The following article provides information regarding activation issues:
If you get an error when trying to activate iMessage or FaceTime - Apple Support
Check your device settings
Make sure that you’re connected to a cellular data or Wi-Fi network. If you're using an iPhone, you'll need SMS messaging to activate your phone number with iMessage and FaceTime. Depending on your carrier, you might be charged for this SMS.
Go to Settings > General > Date & Time and make sure that your time zone is set up correctly.
Thank you for contributing to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Bobby_D

Graphic card problem maybe? Since when I have changed the hard drive to my macbook pro and I installed all the new softwares, my mac is very slow and the screen gives crazy pictures,could maybe be the graphic card, does anybody have experienced this?

Graphic card problem maybe? Since when I have changed the hard drive to my macbook pro and I installed all the new softwares, my mac is very slow and the screen gives crazy pictures,could maybe be the graphic card, does anybody have experienced this?

after a restart it works for a time, but always slow. I went to the Applestore this afternoon and the made a check and said it would be the logicboard and they would have to change it for CHF 600 and it would be ready in 10 - 15 days

Keynoard Crazy in Mac OS X 10.9.4

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