KT3 Ultra - USB Trouble

Hey, im having some trouble getting the USB-ports (The 2 on the board, not the extra on the "cards", they are lost) working on this m-board.
First of all the USB devices where disabled in BIOS but that is fixed.. but here comes more trouble. WinXP found new devices when i started the computer after i enabled the usb in bios. But, i cant find any drivers for "Universal Serial bus" , and its under "other units" in the device manager. But.. the "VIA Rev 5 or later USB Universal Host controller" and USB-Hub is found, drivers found and prolly working.
Anyway.. what should i do?!
Excuse my bad english and bad translatíon.. im swedish

"...and its under "other units" in the device manager..." It should appear as a separated item after Net devices or Net adapters. Perhaps could work deletting all USB items in Device Manager, reboot and let W XP reinstall all of them.
Did you load SP1 for W. XP ?

Similar Messages

  • KT3 Ultra USB D-Bracket problem

    This is the problem: I connected the D-bracket to my KT3 Ultra board. But it doesn't work. Al least, none of the devices I connected to it (printer and camera) are found or seen by Windows. Windows does see a removable device but not the camera. Also the software I use for the camera can't find it. The bracket did work on a older board with Windows ME. But now it doesn't.
    Do I oversee something?
    Board: MSI KT3 Ultra (with latest BIOS revision)
    OS: Windows XP home (with all the updates)

    This is interesting. I have the same board, also running WinXP Professional with SP1 on it.
    As long as I don't use a Bios later than Ver. 5.4 the USB ports work fine and connected devices are recognized and installed correctly.
    However, installing any newer BIOS (5.5 - 5.7) will make the USB ports unusable. The (embedded) USB root ports stay installed or get automaticall re-installed when I remove them, but no device will be recognized and installed correctly any more. They will only be recognized as "unknown device" and that was it. When going back to BIOS 5.4, everything is ok again.
    Since BIOS 5.6 is required to operate 2600+ processors this is extremely bad.
    I would recommend that you try with an older BIOS (e.g. 5.4) and let me know whether you get the same results.
    Heh...
    I'v just gone through hell strugling with the USB on my KT3 Ultra under WinXP, untill I got here... fortunaltely. After I flashed my Amibios to 5.7 or something all USB went dead and I couldn't believe that updating something makes it worse... but guess thats the case. Well I'm happy they keep the older versions available but still these (known) bugs should be on somekind of messageboard so you woundn't have to search all places wrecking your nerve along on the process. In addition I'm not a big fan of flashing bios every now and then.. don't think u are either. I think This forum really helps people ....!!

  • KT3 Ultra (USB Ext CD-RW)

    I have KT3 Ultra ARU for sometimes now and recently I bought an external USB 2.0 TDK Cyclone CD-RW.
    I remembered I read in the user manual that I can boot from USB CD-ROW by changing the boot sequence.
    Advanced BIOS features -> Boot sequence
    My BIOS is 3.31a.
    I wonder whether there is an error in the user manual?  If it is correct, is it I need to upgrade my BIOS? ?(  ?(
    KST

    if you set ist 3 options to none will it boot from it by
    setting boot other device to enabled?

  • USB 2.0 on KT3 Ultra (NEC chip)

    Last December I bought a Hauppauge Win TV Nova-T USB unit for digital TV and Radio. I thought I'd make use of the USB2 sockets. The USB2 sockets work no better than the VIA USB1 sockets. Performance appears to bandwidth limited. The problem exists with XP SP1 and WIn 2k SP3 (with the patch from the MSI driver page). I have in the Device Manager 'NEC PCI to USB Enhanced Host Controller B1' which is what is supposed to be there. All updates got from Microsoft. Resources for this Controller shows it's using IRQ 16, along with the Graphics card and Firewire PCI card. Using ACPI it cannot be moved.
    I've just got hols off the Sony DRX 500 UL USB2 DVD writer. It has both Firewire and USB2 interfaces. Firewire works a treat but USB2 wont. It identifies the Sony OK but Nero crashes usiny the USB2.
    Everything points to the NEC chip.
    My mates bought a KT3 Ultra 2 (with the VIA USB2 chip) and it works a treat.
    Anyone got an NEC chipped mobo with USB2 working?

    Hi,
    AGP and USB are allway's tied together.....
    But as you are using IRQ16, it means you have APIC turned on...
    You need to change the HAL if you change the APIC, see the good article forum on this.
    You might want to run without APIC, not all devices/drivers like this....
    Also, check out the Nero page for updates....
    And a good USB side is http://www.usbman.com

  • MSI KT3 Ultra ARU Startup Trouble

    I am running an MSI KT3 Ultra ARU Mainboard with an amd athlon xp 1500+ processor, a GeForce4 Ti4200 made by Gainward (64mb), two AOC 120MM case fans, one 80mm case fan, a thermaltake volcano 7 speed variable Heatsink, two crucial 512MB pc2100 DDR Ram Chips a sony 16x12x40x cdrw and an LG 16x dvd rom, as well as a 20gig tape drive by HP and floppy drive.  The hard drive is a maxtor diamondmax 60GB.  all this powerd by an Antec 350W PSU.
    Specs over with, heres the problem
    I can only boot from floppy disk.  Booting from the hard disk gives me an "Error Loading Operating System" error, I have tried two other drives and both of these drives have OS's on them, winnt4 and winxp respectively.  The Maxtor drive is clean but not new, I am formatting it as we speak to see if that works.  I have tried to boot from a bootable win2k cd on two different CDRW drives as well as an old CD Rom drive, and a DVD rom drive.  I always get this error "Searching for Boot Record from CD.....None Found" proceeded by the "Error Loading Operating System" error.  I am running everything off the three IDE plugs, with round IDE cable(I have tried flat ones, no luck with those either)  I am not attempting to run this in a RAID array at all.
    Anyone got any ideas as to why this problem would be occuring????

    hi nailz,
    Hope this may solve your problem. In the BIOS, Advanced BIOS Features, set "Boot Sequency" 1st, 2nd, 3rd boot devices to the SAME one, ie Floppy for all, or 1st Master HDD for all. Then reboot. Disable "Try boot device' first. Repeat this until you get the board to boot the device.
    If can't,
    Clear the CMOS and retry.
    If can't,
    (In the BIOS) select all IDE devices and set to NONE. Set "Clear NVRAM" in PCI Configuration. Save and exit the BIOS, then re-entering BIOS in the next boot, enable all IDE devices. Save and exit, re-enter BIOS once more, check the "Boot Sequence".
    Yup... try changing around with IDE settings in the BIOS. Good luck.

  • My KT3 Ultra Experience (from the nightmare to a running well system)

    Well First...
    I don't speak a well english, maybe because still think in spanish, so maybe find many gramatical errors.
    the very very begin
    The history begins with a terrible electric shock in my house, i got a Athlon XP 1700+ with a cheap PC Chips Board (810)..yeah the all in one board (video, modem, ethernet, sound) build my first system with a mixture of expectatives and dreams with my first AMD athlon XP , the system running well, before got the "great idea" to plug a Zoltrix Genie TV card for record South Park, everything is OK, so, i think that i abuse the luck, and a rainy night, i surf the net ( a XXX one... ATK... never forget that site after this) a electric shock enter trought the tv cable searching ground, someone that got this experience maybe feels a demon in a box, a white light come out from the back of the system and hit the isolated regulator ( with the sparks and all the stuff ) the light goes out and a tasty barbecue smell fill completly the room.
    ohhh...
    the list of cooking components:
       Athlon XP 1700+
       PC Chips 810 (a/v/r/s)
       Maxtor HDD 40GB
       Zoltrix Genie TV
       Mouse (generic)
       Keyboard (generic)
       Microsoft sidewinder gamepad
    The miracle pieces:
       256MB DIMM sticks from crucial (PC 100) two of them
       External CD Burner HP CD-Writer 8230e (USB)
       Philips Monitor 17'
    i learn to never watch a porno site in a rainy night... it's really bad for your system
    build another system "da plan!"
    in a trip to Bogotá i search in the computer mall called UNILAGO, the new system board, someone callit MOBO, my idea are this:
    A Boxed Board. Candidates like ASUS , Gygabyte, MSI, with the VIA 333 chip are required.
    we search in all the place, asus show its A7V333 model, but its too expensive in the price that this guy offered (maybe think that i don't search the pricewatch.com page before go to the mall... je je) in a place some guy show me a very nice box... i think the first impression counts, its the kt3 ultra board in her shiny box, next tactic ask for minimun price (...no minimun price got this board...) so i pay 360 thousand pesos for it.
    wen come back to Cali ( the place i live) and after got some pesos in my bag i go to the computer mall in Cali called La passarella (remember the argentinian soccer player?) for buy the components.....
    the list is this:
       Athlon XP 1800+ BOXED (got the original AMD heatsink)
       DDR RAM PC2100 256 MB
       Genius Netscroll Optic
       Genius Keyboard
       CD-Rom LG 52 X
       Case with a 300W ATX Power Supply
       Realtek Ethernet Card (Encore)
       AGP Video card with the SIS chip 315 128MB of ram
       Genius Maxfire USB (i buyit for the cheap price and anyway i don't play too much in a computer so i dont need a Nvidia Ti thing or a gamepad expensive)
    wen go to the house, plug all the stuff and the process it's fine, no complicate things occur, i do two modifications first
    1)to the AMD heatsink, the clip come in the other side, so i need to unplug the Power ATX supply for attach it and don't want to do the same thing every time that retire the heatsink, i disarm the heatsink and turn the clip to the other side, no problems with this mod...  
    2)i don't use floppy disks... I HATE IT so the place of the floppy converts in the place for the D-Bracket with all the lights and two USB... nice because i perfored the case in the right way and the usb and the lights come in the front of the case...it's a easy mod...
    all the things come well so turn it ON...
     KT3 Ultra first Round!
     well i don' pay much attention in the first time that power on the system and hit the del key.... nothing happens and a letters of searching array and scanning devices show... after this process the amibios screen shows (the blue one, and still today don't find the option for change the color scheme like te PC Chips amibios options got) in this point i know that the rule "search the instruction booklet" it's totally necessary for many options the options that i disable and some that enable are this:
        in integrated peripherals disable the ata raid option (remember the scan devices screen?) i plug a maxtor ATA 100 hard drive to the ide cable because don't know if this hard disk works with the Raid Option maybe not because is ata 100.. so disable the option
        in power management options i activate the CPU critical temperature to 70°C
        in advanced bios settings i enable the MSI link to the future screen... nice, SMART for HDD enable. In the boot secuence put first CD-rom and later HDD
        in standard CMOS settings put the hour...(uh!), and obvious disable the nasty floppy drive (BOOT CDS REPLACE THE NEED OF FLOPPY DRIVES...)
        in PC health disable the intrussion option, because i don't have the switch for the case...
        in frecuency and voltage i find the FSB in 100Mhz but i don't change anything in this point...
     after this tiny modification, i save the changes and restart....
     the system boot with a CD he he... with a image of the win98 boot disk, so i formated and fdisk the drive... tooooo fast in this point.
     after partition the HDD in 5 pieces and formating every partition, i reboot the computer for installing Win98...
     the installation goes normal, and install all the MSI software (only for know what apps are appreciable por me) i don't have any problems, install all the drivers for every single hardware piece and the system works well... so testing es the next point.
     KT3 Ultra first test after the installation
     well i feel that my job are easyly...(ji ji) and all the process go OK so testing my new machine gotme like a child.
     i run the test of SiS for the AGP card ( 3D thrill ) the demo of the card got a cosmic scene, comes very fast, i try to watch if someone piloting the space ship, and maybe see something
     the sound are good for the include sound chip in the board, put and test all the effects and test...ok ok... nice.
     microsoft direct X got some testings so i run it too ... write in run command "dxdiag" and ready for the tests, in this point i feel free to install a copy of "formula 1 2002" in the machine some guy borrowme a copy, wen i try to install got a n error.... (the first one) and the game don't install ... i reject the installation and try another game, in this point i search the Athlon XP Oem.bmp file for branding my new system... je je, and hit the window key and pause and i find that my processor runs in 1.1 Mhz... (what!!!) if this CPU is a 1800 and this speed maybe is wrong....so i read the boocklet and find in the FSB option the way for put the CPU in his real Mhz...(1.53) in this point begins the troubles...
     KT3 Ultra damage my CPU??????!!!!!
     Wen enter to the bios i got direct for the FSB option and put it to 133Mhz maybe this thing it's easyly too, i think, i made and save the changes... and.....
     A BLACK SCREEN COMES AND I SEE THE FOUR LEDS IN RED!!!!
     AHHHH!,  i thinks that this processor pases to a better life after this point, with shaking hands  read again the boocklet and find the interpretation for the 4 red leds signal, damage or bad installed processor.
     oh, so what i do...?
    i continue reading for a little FAQ in the boocklet, and nothing, only a glossary, i call a friend to helpme... ( the true geek one) the guy tell me to reset the bios with the jumper... so, i don't loose anything with this and do it...
    wen the computer reboots the signals come to life... (ufff!) and the scanning device creen shows again... so i need to save again my settings.
    i do all the things and save, the system turns on and windows 98 load normal again... i try to fix the FSB thing in other time i think, and continue intalling some programs.
    In my CDs find a copy of formula 1 2001 no de 2002 version, because this version i installed in my other fried system i installed in mine for show and prove the 3d card...
    the installation works fine and terminate ok, wen i hit the icon to play, the 3d settings window appears i select some options 800x600 32bit color and press test,  a blank screen comes with some little caracters, in some point wen the test come back my system frozes and nothing happens... OHHHHHHH! what happens?.... i think, i decided to check the temperature values because in this point think that my installation fails in the put heatsink process.
    i load PC alert and find CPU temperature in 78°C... oh, it's too high i think so shutdown the system and check the heatsink for anything that miss in the first time.
    i put again the heatsink an log to the bios for check the values....
    this is the values of PChealth option in bios:
       Cpu temp  : 71°C and stable in this value...it's high too
       System Temp : 38°C ...high too
       VCore      1.744V
       +5.0V       5.038V
       +12V      11.923V
       -12V      -11.497
       -5V         -5.026V
       Batt      3.24V
       +5VSB      4.969
    some ideas come to my mind and try to think if some options of the bios, the best performance option it's a good point to start i think so i select and save the changes...
    oh, oh, the black screen comes again.... buuuuuu! and the four red leds too....buuuu!
    mmmm, ....what i do?, what i do?....i reset again the bios, for the options and try to boot the machine again... maybe leave the system in the first point i think but nothing prepare me for the many "chorro" of errors thath follow after this point....
    If i can roll back the time....
    i think to be superman and fly in a oposite earth direction for roll back the time... (luisa!)
    the system begins a non stop errors secuence  sometimes the four leds are red, sometimes tree leds red an the top right led green, in the book says this signal is for damage DDR ram...
    wen windows 98 loads the system frozes in some points, and wen enter and run some test the system frozes too...
    i reset the bios to the original form an try to leave the house excactly wen enter the first time... i save it and the errors continues...
    with NO hope of correct by myself the issues i turn on my old K6II system and find the MSI forum that got some mysql errors
    in the forum find the Power unit suplly issues, i got the ATX box and 300W maybe it's too low i think after MANY post with same errors like me, i think to made a program plan for recover the stability and my ideas come in the next point.
    now need another message to continue....

    Return the system to the "normal" or less stability
    In the forum (thanks for the people thath participate) some people says issues of frozen systems because cheap ATX power supply, some other got problems with the heatsink, i think that a mixture of those issues gotme like mad and try to figure out the quality of a atx power supply that changes the performance after a bios setup... ( it's a very cheap ATX power supply, i think) the Power unit now don't support the energy, and power needs of the system in some cases wen i run the 3d accelerated test the system frozes wen i hit "test".
    return today to the computer mall passarella, and buy this items:
       Vulcano 7 (it's a building no, it's a airplane no,... it's vulcano 7 with speed sensor incorporated, much bigger than a building and more CFM than any airplane make!)
       ATX power supply 400W for kicks power requeriments and maybe extract energy enough for a reading lamp...
       wen come back to the house i install the new parts, the vulcano 7 needs the same mod than the other AMD one, or maybe MSI put the  sockect A protect clip layer in the wrong site, maybe the board fit well in a ATX-XL case for no uninstall the power unit to put the heatsink... anyway need to uninstallit but this issue it's funny.
    wen everiting it's ok i turn on the system...
    KT3 Ultra Runs smooth... FINALLY
    i know thath every body needs to listen a couple of help tips, in this point i think that logged to the forum are the best idea that i got, many people got the same problems and if you don't ask or search you think thath the MSI board it's a terrible board, and this no true, and because it's red too.
    the system loads normal and i think to go up the FSB to the NORMAL 133 value for this athlon XP 1800+ i change the values, save and reboot the first thing that i find are the bios recognize the Amd Athlon XP 1800+ in the first black screen ( wen disables da logo) later, web hit windows key+ pause the window says Athlon XP 1800+, in the fuzzy logic app i find the values of 1523 Mhz and the temperature don't rises 50°C it's now OK, better than the cooking eggs thing that got before the changes.
    now i need to give some thanks..
    Thanks
    to all the people in the forum, i don't write a nice english but i know read and it's enough for take a easy living style with this machines...
    MSI people thanks
    for the people in the mall, they don't know  much the Power unit issues of this board it's a bit more exigent than others in his point.
    to my dog that share my angry in the late night, it's a good one that dont' sleep well wen i work in the night..
    so to all the people thanks for made this posible, maybe this long post with less technical things works for put your boards well.
    Victor Hugo Hernández
    Cali - Colombia

  • KT3 Ultra 2R + Barton 3000+

    Hi all..
    Hope someone can help.
    I have a KT3 Ultra 2R board with the following stats:
    Athlon XP (Barton) 3000+ FSB 166 CPU
    CoolerMaster HHC-001 heatpipe H/sink with 80mm fan
    Antec 520W PSU
    2 x 100 ATA Maxtor Viper 80Gb HDD's with 8Mb cache each in striped RAID array
    Asus TI 4600 Ultra 128Mb V/card
    Audigy S/card
    Lite-on CD/RW
    Lite-on CD/DVD
    2 x 512Mb Corsair XMS 3000 DDR Ram (333 and above) with aluminium heat spreaders
    Lian-Li PC70 Tower case with 6 x 80mm fans
    Rounded cables throughout
    Win XP + SP1
    The Problem:
    This system worked fine with an Athlon XP 2200 CPU and I read MSI's CPU support list and saw the KT3 Ultra 2 6380E supported the Barton XP 3000+ CPU's so I bought one.  :P
    At first I had trouble booting on the 5.7 version bios, with the lock ups throught the bootup process. I reset the bois to the defaults and slowly worked up the settings using the recommendations in the forums.
    At the moment, the system will boot up with fast command set to normal, no agressive DDR timings, 1T command disabled, fastwrite disabled, agp read/write disabled and SDRAM set to SPD (HCLK).
    My 3DMark01 & 3DMark03 scores are lower than when I had the XP 2200 CPU installed and the SiSoft sandra results are the equivalent of a Athlon 2000. MSI says the board supports the Barton 3000+, but at what cost ???  :O
    The system is very unstable and and requires on average 3 boots to boot up successfully. The 3DMark03 test often locks up mid way.
    Any help or the settings MSI or you used to achieve their results would be VERY helpful. Please Help... ;(

    I have had a similar problem running my kt3 ultra2 (non raid) at 166 fsb. In mid april I bought a 2600+ 166 fsb athlon to upgrade my system from a 1.2 ghz athlon. I bought some new pc2700 crucial ram to go along with the processor. I had also recently bought a radeon 9700 pro in late march, and a 1.2 athlon would just be a waste of this great vid card. I had been running fine with the radeon and the 1.2 athlon with the msi 5.7 bios and 4.43 via 4-in-1's.
    I battled this problem for weeks. I bought a new antec 550 watt PSU, corsair xms 3200 ram, and new antec tower case trying to find out if the problem was ram, power or heat. I should also note that turning on spread spectrum helped a little in stability. Setting it to .50% made it stable in windows and games, but the computer would not turn on if shutdown unless I cleared the cmos. No setting besides this had any effect on stability. Even conservative ram timings. I was about to buy an Asus a7n8x when I realized that I had once run my old cpu and ram at 166 fsb when I had the 5.6 bios a couple of months back. I did not keep it like that in fear of damaging the ram while overclocked.
    So I reflashed to 5.6 which still supported the 2600+. That finally worked almost perfectly, although I still have to keep spread spectrum at .25% to be stable (which is odd, people say that is supposed to hurt stability). So in my situation, it was the bios that was faulty. I have had some very ramdom crashes to the desktop (3 of them) in games and one hardlock with a blank bluescreen in unreal2. This is over a span of a month. So it is not perfect. It might be the display drivers causing this, which I have recently upgraded, or I might need to back off my ram timings which are at 2-2-2-5 which this ram can handle easily at 166. 3dmark has yet to crash. Prime 95 passed when I ran it for 30 minutes. Im going to run prime 95 today and see if it will run for like 12 hours stable. Im still looking into getting a new nforce 2 mobo, however (abit or asus).
    I hope this helps your situation, you should give it a try. Although, the 5.6 bios does not support the 3000+. It might still work, it will maybe just not show up as a 3000+ in the bios, but as a 2.17 Athlon XP.
    I think MSI should be made aware of this possible 5.7 bios fsb instability. Why spread spectrum seems to be related in my situation, is really odd also.

  • KT3 Ultra ARU PC hangs

    Hi there.
    I have a MSI KT3 Ultra ARU motherboard, AMD XP 2600+, 2x 256 MB Apacher DDR 333 and a Radeon 9700 Pro card. Yesterday I changed CPU from Thunderbird 1.4 to XP 2600+. I had some memory problems with one of the apacher modules, but everything worked fine afterwards. I must say my computer including the OS (WinXP Pro) has been realy stable up to now, and I have never seen this kind of a hang before.
    I was burning a CD (in 4x) while watching a .avi file and the computer hangs. It did not hang fully at the start. First hang nero, then some other programs, then startmeny and desktop, and then the mouse. PC speaker was making a constant bip the whole time until I restarted...
    The system booted up, but I was wondering what it could be? I have some feeling it may be a memory problem, and will check that later on, but that will take some time. I hope someone here knows what to doo, and help me solve this problem.
    Everyone where I am from tells me to buy intel becouse they say AMD is not as stable as intel. I dont think intel is bether than AMD, and my old Thunderbird was rockstable even at 1636 MHz, overclocked by multiplier.

    Hi DataFMT,
    Thanks!
    You should see my IRQ's, I tried to get them all on a single one :D
    It doesn't matter if they are shared or not.
    But the trouble is, the APIC does try to seperate them for the CPU's (Yes CPU's) as it's Multi-CPU specification and designed to seperate them in order to let the appropriate CPU handle the IRQ instead of all off them at the same time.
    On a single CPU system this is stupid to use as the CPU needs to respond to every IRQ anyway.
    Microsoft gas gone totaly nuts on this matter and their article about the APIC is as stupid as it can be.
    They are mixing all sorts of (A)Pic's without knowing what they are doing.
    Ever wondered why Multi-CPU systems are so hard to get stable when the need for high-load is there?
    Every system today has multiple PIC (programmable IRQ controller).
    The first old one is called PIC, that one needs to be programmed for every IRQ and has a hard time on IRQ sharing and the OS needs to program it, when you use Standard-PC, that's the one you use.
    Not a good one to use as it slows the system down.
    So far Microsoft is right.
    The next one is the Local-APIC (A=Advanced), this one can share IRQ's without problems and sort of programs itself, ergo, you can't change IRQ's, and there is no need to do so anyway.
    This one is used when you enable ACPI and use ACPI-compliant-system.
    It's fast, stable and very OS/driver friendly.
    Then you have the I/O APIC, in the chipset, that one is the APIC/MPS the BIOS setting controls.
    MS screws up here big time, this one translates the real IRQ's into addresses and feeds them to the CPU PIC or Local-APIC, depend if ACPI is enabled or not.
    This one is a trouble maker, because the translation isn't needed for a single CPU system and not all drivers like it's behavior.
    Another thing is that it needs to buffer a lot, and when driving your system to the limits it can jump IRQ signals because the servicing of them can be a bit behind.
    This looks like the system is faster, but a jump can cause a lot of trouble.
    Good samples of this happening are running too fast/slow system clock in WinNT/2000/XP when you have a heavy load.
    Do a search in google and you see plenty examples.
    Another good example of this is caused by Norton, that can disturb the sound when Apic is used.
    I have discussed with MSI why APIC was turned on by default, they said it was stupid, but the PC-2001 spec requires this....and guess who wrote the spec???? :D
    I have also seen that a lot of other Mobo makers are starting to turn the APIC off by default and let you run with the Local-Apic by default.
    A far better choice if you ask me, but then who asks me??? :P

  • KT3 Ultra ARU Lock up

    My sig has everything I know about my computer.
    I usually at 47 deg CPU and 42 System
    the Hottest is 50 deg and 45 system and it did not
    lock up.
    It seems very arbitrary. No program or game etc. specificly is opening or closing at the time of lockup.
    Sometimes i am AFK and it will be locked up when I come
    back.
    My cursor pointer will move around the screen however.
    Help ah.  What else can I check??
    Thanks for any help.

    You can have a look at my hardware below...
    Chassis: Antec 1080B (300w PSU / 180w COMBINED)
    Mainboard: MSI KT3 Ultra ARU
    CPU: AMD Athlon XP 1800+
    Display: ABIT Siluro GF4 Ti4200 AGP 4X
    DVD/CD-RW Combo: HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4120B
    Floppy: Panasonic 1.44MB
    HD: Quantum Fireball Plus/AS 30.0GB UDMA 100
    Keyboard: Microsoft Internet Keyboard Pro
    Monitor: KDS Visual Sensations VS-190
    Mouse: Microsoft USB Wheel Mouse Optical
    NICs: 3Com 3C900B / DLink DFE-530TX
    RAM: Micron DDR 266MHz (2x256MB DIMMs)
    Sound: Avance AC'97 Audio
    I'm having similar problems where my system becomes very unstable at higher bus speeds. However, I have ordered a new PSU today as a solution to this problem. Basically, CPUs and video cards are much more demanding and the more devices you have in your computer the more power you're going to need. I recommend purchasing the Enermax EG465P-VE (FCA) 450W ATX PS. It has a higher amperage rating and will most likely solve your problem.

  • Anyone using BlueTooth with MSI KT3 Ultra-Aru?

    Has anyone setup BlueTooth PC to PC network with the MSI KT3 Ultra-Aru?
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    Quote
    Originally posted by cje1985
    i have a kt3 ultra aru it says it has blue tooth and on the usb 2.0 dongle it says do not remove if you use bluetooth but when i follow the manual to plug it in windows or the software finds the bluetooth connection
    Hi,
    I have a KT3 Ultra ARU too, and I understand that if you use the onboard Bluetooth connection you must not use the USB connection under the blue sticker at the same time.
    I think it's because the onboard Bluetooth connection and the USB connection under the sticker use the same adress (IRQ). So as long as you have no Bluetooth, like me, you can use the 4 USB connections. If you use Bluetooth connection on board, do not use the USB connection under the sticker (the left one seen from backside of your PC).
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  • Broken component on MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU mainboard.

    Hi Everyone,
    A friend of mine has an MSI mainboard which has a broken component due to his screwdriver slipping off the CPU clamp while installing a new CPU.  
    The mainboard is an MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU (MS-6380E) ATX Revision 1.0
    The broken component is next to the CPU socket (between the CPU socket and the chipset fan) and is labelled  L14 on the mainboard.  
    I believe it is a Ferrite bead inductor/choke.
    We have been unable to find the broken part and would like to replace it.  I can fit a new component if I can find out the value of the broken inductor/choke in millihenries or microhenries or picohenries.
    Would someone with an - MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU (MS-6380E) ATX Revision 1.0 - mainboard, please take a look at the component labelled  L14 and let me know what the numbers on that particular component are?
    You will probably need a magnifying glass to do this, unless your eyes are very good!
    If you know the value of this component, please help!
    I would welcome any information on this, it's a shame to scrap a mainboard because of a component costing only a few cents/pence.
    Thanks in advance to anyone who helps on this, I appreciate you taking time and trouble to help.
    Dave - needtoknow.

    Hi Bas,
    I got the part I needed but not from MSI, they would not sell me one, so I went to a USA company called Mouser Electronics.
    http://www.mouser.com/
    The part cost me only 34 cents US, shipping was $6.00!  So for about £4.00 UK I can fix the board.  Better than £20.00 by far.
    You can order even very small parts from mouser as a one off, something you can't do with most UK companies. Their range of stock is *huge*.
    Thank you very much for getting the info about the part from MSI for me. I could not have repaired it if you had not helped me with that, so I owe you.
    Dave, needtoknow.

  • MSI KT3 Ultra ARU 5.7 BIOS and SoudBlaster Cards - Audigy

    I have flashed my BIOS to 5.7 Version and my sound card start to make a lot of noise (crackling) when play AC3 or DVD. If you dont want to use the new AMD CPU 333 FSB you dont need to flash the BIOS - I have Flashed to 5.6 again but, if you want to use a 333 FSB CPU you can flash the BIOS to version 5.7 and if have sound problems use the PCI latency patch for VIA chipsets.
    VIA chipset MotherBoard owners who have through all of the above and still have sound problems with their Soundblaster cards, might want to look into the PCI latency patch for VIA chipsets - get it here:
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    (scroll down the page there just a little to get to it).
    There's also a similar page about resolving sound problems on Via chipset based computers here:
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    I hope this post help somebody
    Mário Silva from Beja - Portugal
    My System:
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    Athlon 2400+
    512 Kingston PC2700 DDR SDRAM
    MSI Geforce4 Ti 4200
    SoundBlaster Audigy
    Windows xp Pro SP1
    400W PSU
    Creative Drx3
    Pinnacle PCTV pro
    HDD Maxtor 80 GB UDMA 133
    DVD Pioneer slot in
    RW Samsung 48x16x48
    Creative WebCam Go
    UPS 500 VA
    Monitor Sony 19" E400E

    Since my chip is an unlocked, I cannot easily run it at the default, but I can underclock it. At 100x6.0=600mhz, USB does not work, as well as 100x12.5. Same with 133x6.0 and 133x12.5. It appears to make no difference underclocking or overclocking.
    I downloaded the right BIOS listed on MSI's KT3 Ultra-ARU page. I don't think the BIOSes are different anyway, since the same files, changelog, and etc are also listed for the Ultra-2 board.
    A thing to note, that this is the onboard VIA-controller USB ports doing this. My Ultra-ARU's NEC-controller USB 2.0 ports work fine in both Win2k and Linux if I hook my mouse and keyboard up in those. This is not an ideal solution for me though.

  • MSI KT3 ultra aru Western Digital 200GB raid problem

    Hi!
    This is what I've got.
    KT3 Ultra-ARU (MS-6380E)
    AMD 2000+
    256 MB 333mhz RAM (AMD Compatible)
    Seagate ST330630A 30GB (an old drive)
    Maxtor 6L080J4 80GB
    Maxtor DiamondMax Plus9 6Y080L0 80Gb 7200rpm 2Mb UDMA133 Fluid IDE
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    Western Digital Caviar WD2000JB 200Gb 7200rpm Special Edition UDMA100 IDE
    Promise 100 IDE-controller
    Creative Geforce MX 440
    Lite-on LTR-40125W
    NEC ND-1300 DVD
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    IDE2: WD1800BG (Cabel Select)
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    IDE4(Raid2): WD2000JB (Cable Select)
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    When I've hook my WD2000JB to the on-board raid everything seems to be working normaly. The bios finds the drive and makes a new array. Win2k boots up and finds the drive and I can create an partition. But when I've try to format it it the computer starts to freeze for a while and then acts like normal again. The HDD-led blinks as it should during the "normal" time, but when the comp. freezes it stops blinking. The formatation stops at 7% and the HDD-led stops lighting. I don't get an error eventhough it was several hours since it stoped. And the formatation takes like 30min for 1%.
    When I connect the WD2000JB to the IDE3 I can format it and it acts just like normal. I even did a full system test with the System tool found on Western Digitals support site and it didn't find any errors. But when move it to the raid-IDE the errors return. I've get Error reading / writing to disk and when I've did a chkdsk I've got the "Coudn't use Device) so I did a scandisk and it found very very many errors so it completly ereased everything that was on it.
    And when I've run Western Digitals program again i've get an error (Disk error read/writing) error code: 0113.
    Can it be that the Western Disk doesn't work well with Raid? I've haven't heard anything about that, so...
    Best regars,
    Mathias

    You can have a look at my hardware below...
    Chassis: Antec 1080B (300w PSU / 180w COMBINED)
    Mainboard: MSI KT3 Ultra ARU
    CPU: AMD Athlon XP 1800+
    Display: ABIT Siluro GF4 Ti4200 AGP 4X
    DVD/CD-RW Combo: HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4120B
    Floppy: Panasonic 1.44MB
    HD: Quantum Fireball Plus/AS 30.0GB UDMA 100
    Keyboard: Microsoft Internet Keyboard Pro
    Monitor: KDS Visual Sensations VS-190
    Mouse: Microsoft USB Wheel Mouse Optical
    NICs: 3Com 3C900B / DLink DFE-530TX
    RAM: Micron DDR 266MHz (2x256MB DIMMs)
    Sound: Avance AC'97 Audio
    I've had similar problems where my system becomes very unstable at higher bus speeds. Installing Windows XP simply didn't work very good. However, I have ordered a new PSU today as a solution to this problem. Basically, CPUs and video cards are much more demanding and the more devices you have in your computer the more power you're going to need. I recommend purchasing the Enermax EG465P-VE (FCA) 450W ATX PS. It has a higher amperage rating and will most likely solve your problem.
    Check your PSU and your bus speed settings...

  • MSI - KT3 Ultra-ARU Raid + XP

    Hi,
    I have just built a new system using the MSI - KT3 Ultra-ARU motherboard and am having issues instaling Windows XP professional.
    The system has been set with 2 Maxtor HD on Raid 0 Stipping.
    On installing Windows XP and Raid Driver 2.0 that comes with the board, XP continues to load the files needed for setup, while in this process it will have a read/copy error. As much as you retry it will not read. This happens on different files each time I try to install and is not a bad CD.
    Any suggestions ?

    You can have a look at my hardware below...
    Chassis: Antec 1080B (300w PSU / 180w COMBINED)
    Mainboard: MSI KT3 Ultra ARU
    CPU: AMD Athlon XP 1800+
    Display: ABIT Siluro GF4 Ti4200 AGP 4X
    DVD/CD-RW Combo: HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4120B
    Floppy: Panasonic 1.44MB
    HD: Quantum Fireball Plus/AS 30.0GB UDMA 100
    Keyboard: Microsoft Internet Keyboard Pro
    Monitor: KDS Visual Sensations VS-190
    Mouse: Microsoft USB Wheel Mouse Optical
    NICs: 3Com 3C900B / DLink DFE-530TX
    RAM: Micron DDR 266MHz (2x256MB DIMMs)
    Sound: Avance AC'97 Audio
    I've had similar problems where my system becomes very unstable at higher bus speeds. Installing Windows XP simply didn't work very good. However, I have ordered a new PSU today as a solution to this problem. Basically, CPUs and video cards are much more demanding and the more devices you have in your computer the more power you're going to need. I recommend purchasing the Enermax EG465P-VE (FCA) 450W ATX PS. It has a higher amperage rating and will most likely solve your problem.
    Check your PSU and your bus speed settings...

  • PC Component power requirements on a KT3 Ultra-ARU: ANSWERS - At last

    G'Day Folk,
    First, my PC specs are as below in my sig.
    Second, I know this is an old motherboard, but I would like to keep it going, and make the best of it for another year or so. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and would help two other users!
    Symptoms:
    Minor stability and performance issues, mostly in games, simulators, or doing high resolution photographics processing. I bought three machines with similar specs in 2002, for my brother, father, and myself. Each has had some hard to nail down, intermittent problems. My brother's PC has had a new motherboard and processor after failure of the KT3, but still has some niggling problems. He also has an XP 2600+ running at 65C !
    More recently I have been able to reliably reproduce graphics problems in Empire Earth II, Serious Sam, and Halo. Specifically, I can create the problem in an Empire Earth II game by running a saved game and looking at a specific spot on the map. The screen shows tearing, and eventually goes black, returning to normal dispaly when I move to a different part of the map. In certain Halo games I could cause the problem by looking in a specific direction. I assume this is because what is being displayed is using different or more graphics processing features, although it is not apparent what they may be from the content of the view.
    Being able to reliably reproduce the problem allowed me to actually analyse the cause.
    Diagnosis:
    After upgrading all drivers, and trying everything I could think of, as well as everything I could find on the web, especially in this forum, I have narrowed the problem down to the power supply. The clincher for me is that when I create the problem the 3.3Volt power supply line (rail) drops to as low as 2.45Volts! The +5V line also fluctuates and drops as low as 4.81Volt. This was measured using MBM5 and MBM5 Log. The usual voltages reported by MBM5 at idle are +3.3V rail = 2.99 to 3.01 Volt, +5V rail = 4.92 to 4.95 Volt.
    Okay, so the +5V rail stays in spec (just), but the +3.3V rail is out of spec (+/- 5%) even at idle. It should be at least 3.135Volt.
    I checked the voltages with and without the problem using an analogue volt meter, as software voltage readings are often low. The volt meter is a little slow to respond to the voltage fluctuations, but did confirm that at idle the +3.3V rail was less than 3.1Volt (out of spec), and with the problem occuring, dropped at least to 2.8Volt.
    As you can see below my power supply should be able to handle all I throw at it. Topower isn't the greatest brand, but it does receive "satisfactory" in reviews on Tom's Hardware and such. I suspect it (and my brother's and father's) has always been weak, although age, or more powerful games may be highlighting the problem.
    Solution:
    Get a new power supply.
    Not so simple these days, particularly if you want to upgrade in the future, with the move to powering components using the 12Volt rail. I want a power supply that will power my current +3.3V and +5V hungry motherboard, plus future 12V requirements, if possible. So I am doing a Power Audit of my PC, hence . . .
    Questions:
    I have collected power requirements for most of my components in Ampere by supply voltage. However, details are hard to lock down. I'll jump straight into specific questions.
    1. The Athlon XP 2100+ draws a maximum of 89.9Watts into the Voltage Regulator Module (VRM), which converts it to the CPU supply voltage of 1.75Volt. (About 51Amps. Ouch!) If this is sourced from the +12V rail as suggested by the AMD Athlon Desktop Builders Guide, then this would be 7.49Amp, and would not effect the +3.3V and +5V rails unless the total power capacity of the supply is being exceeded. However, the CPU power source was changed from the +3.3V and +5V lines to the +12V lines around the time of the XP2100+. I don't know what MSI did on my motherboard.
    Can anyone confirm which voltage rail is used to power the XP 2100+ on the KT3 Ultra ARU motherboard?
    2. I have found average power usages for motherboards of around 25 Watt on many web sites, but can't confirm the power used by the KT3. Does anyone know the maximum current (Amps) for each voltage rail from the power supply for this motherboard?
    3. Memory power requirements also vary a lot on the web. I'm using 10Watt each on the +3.3V rail for two sticks of 512MB DDR Corsair. Can anybody confirm this, for the KT3? (10W per stick seems to have been the standard since 128MB sticks came out!)
    4. I have a GeForce 4 Ti 4600 AGP graphics card. (Okay, it's not an MSI, but the power should be similar across brands.) There are several threads that suggest that this card uses lots of +3.3V and +5V power from the AGP slot. (Wonkanoby?) However, none give actual Amps for each rail. Anybody know?
    5. In case anybody knows, I can't find actual power for an Audigy 2 ZS either. Any suggestions?
    As modern power supplies tend to have reduced +3.3V and +5V capacity in favour of +12V, I need to be pretty sure of the actual requirements on these rails before buying a new supply. I could just "go and by the biggest Antec I can find and don't worry about it", but I might find that it has the same problems my existing one does.
    All help greatly appreciated. Selection of a new PSU could fix three PCs, mine, my brother's, and my father's.
    PS: My apologies to those I told that this was a great power supply. Well, it has great specs, and the problems observed couldn't be tied to it until recently. Bummer really.
    PPS: Sorry for the long post, but it's an interesting, and important topic, isn't it?
    UPDATE: See post on 1st March, 2006 for response from vendors and updated table of component requirements.
    Here is a copy of my signature in case I change it in the future, just for context.
    MSI KT3 Ultra ARU (MS-6380E V1.0),  AMI BIOS 5.7
    AMD Athlon XP 2100+ Palomino 1.73GHz @13 x 133 FSB
    2x Corsair CMX-512-3000C2 512MB 2-2-2-5-1T @333MHz
    Leadtek GeForce4 Ti 4600 Winfast A250 Ultra MyVIVO 128MB (AGP)
    Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
    2x WD Caviar WD1200JB 120GB 7200RPM 8MB Cache,
              each drive enclosed in a Scythe Silent Box Heatlane HDD Enclosure
    CD&DVD Plextor PX320A & Pioneer DVR-A09P
    Topower PSU 470W PFC 3.3+5V=235W +3.3V/26A, +5V/47A, +12V/28A
    mCubed T-Balancer Fan Controller,
              multiple quiet fans: Zalman, SilenX, Panaflo, Lian Li blower
    Zalman CNPS6000-Cu & ZM-NB32J NB HS
    ~ 10-20C over ambient
    Lian-Li PC-60 Case, WinXP ProSP2+

    Try the link below, this will tell you what you need. After you added all you hardware and get the final power result add 50% to this and you will have the proper size P/S needed for your system. You can even make a list of future upgrades you want to do and that way you can see what P/S will work for you now in the present and what you would need in the future, just remember to add 50% to what ever total you add up.
    For example, if the P/S calculator says you have a total draw of 279W then you would add 50% to this;
    279+50%=418.5
    http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp
    Below I have pasted a piece that I made for determing P/S which may help you to;
    Resets are a P/S issue and lock-ups are most likely due to your graphic card, with that said I will give you a table with which you can determine the proper P/S for your system and a little info just for info.
    I must also add that never trust software to tell you your voltages, this includes the BIOs as the BIOs is just a piece of software. To properly check the voltage one must use a digi-VOM.
    A 7200rpm HD draws around 20 watts, this 20 watts includes both the 5v & 12V rail.
    HD and CD's generally are figured at 2 Amps per device, let’s brake this down some.
    Spin-up: 12V x 1.3A + 5V x 650mA = 19W
    Read/Write/Idle: 12V x 350mA + 5V x 700mA = 7.75W
    Seek: 12V x 675mA + 5V x 725mA = 12W
    Those would be typical for a 7200 rpm IDE drive. As you can see a HD requires more power at start-up then during actual operation. This is why sometimes a PC takes a few tries to start up before it will actually make a successful boot and once it boots to windows all seems well or sometimes a occasional restart, which would indicate a weak/ bad P/S.
    Now to find the power used by the CPU you can check either AMD or Intel for the spec sheets on that CPU or you can follow this link that has tons of CPU ratings, CPU specs.
    Some more basic mathematics… When a 12-volt circuit is drawing 10 amps, it is consuming 120 WATTS of electrical power. 12 Volts X 10 Amps = 120 WATTS.
    This is the formula: P = E x I
    P - Watt (power)
    E – Voltage (electrical pressure)
    I – Amperage (current flow)
    Serial/PS-2 ports draw <35mA and if you have USB ports then they have a maximum of 500mA per port, again only if they are used- no use means no draw.
    The PCI slots are allowed 5A of the +5V, 0.5A of the +12V and 7.6A of the 3.3V Max per slot, again that is if the slots are used. So if the serial ports, PS-2 and USB ports are being used you are looking at around 5A draw on the MB, which would be around 20 Watts.
    So now we can add things up. (This is just an example of a basic system)
    MB=20W
    CPU= 60W, used as a norm.
    HD=20W
    CDRW=25W
    DVD=20W
    Graphic card=15W / newer GF4 and ATI 9000 and up= 35W
    RAM 10 Watts per 128 MB
    Network Card 5 Watts
    Average per PCI Card 8 Watts
    Total around 200W for this example.
    Now this will fall on different rails and that is were things get tricky, because as you see in my above break down of the HD that a HD use's both the 12V & 5V rail. This is why it is important that the 12V rail be at least 18 Amps if you plan on having more then 1 HD and case fans. Then you have the 3.3V & 5V rails that need to be strong too, the 3.3v rail is actually not so important with newer DDR MB and today’s CPU’s as it is mainly supplying the PS-2 ports power as well as some device cards. Most newer MB use the 5v and 12v rails mainly to supply the demands of today’s devices.
    Now this 200W is the bare min what is needed for things to run but in the real world you will want to add 50% to the 200W for your min P/S need, this allows room for spikes and heavy demands and a little head room to add hardware in the future.

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