Large repairs for a Macbook

Hi,
I got my Macbook in Nov '07 and I have never looked back. I really like Macintosh products and I think they generally have better durability and performance than others. Well yesterday my Macbook seems to have completely had it, however there has been underlying issues with it. My Macbook will not load to the Finder screen at all, it just stops at the Apple logo. I have tried resetting the SMC and PRAM but it still has not solved the issue.
Anyways back to the underlying problems. The first major issue I noticed was that my trackpad and keyboard stopped working and I did the quick ''Paper'' fix which made my keyboard work but my trackpad and mouse button had now lost a lot of usability. The next problem was the large crash I had this Summer. My macbook had never properly recovered from that. I saw the performance of my Macbook dramatically decreased, it would crash more frequently especially when I browsed the internet. I also believe the crash led to greater problems, for example when another Laptop used the router either wireless or the ethernet connection, my Laptop would pretty much be completely useless as the rainbow spinning ball would constantly appear if you made a single click. I also have other issues such as the fraying of the casing.
So that is basically it, so my question is, Well I do not have AppleCare nor do I have the Leopard Install disc 1 but how much would a cost for repairs. I am not too fazed about the repairs for the fraying though.
Thanks

You may have a RAM failure, or a hard drive failure.
This being a user to user forum, no one here could quote you the actual cost.
If you are in the U.S., you might want to contact these places as well:
http://www.dttservice.com/
http://www.powerbookresq.com/
http://www.microdocusa.com/
http://www.macspecialist.com/
http://www.techrestore.com/
If you have data to recover, you could try my backup FAQ* for some cheaper solutions:
http://www.macmaps.com/backup.html
- * Links to my pages may give me compensation.

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Using old G5 as large screen monitor for new MacBook

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ds store's opinion will be right in some, but not all cases.
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Is MacKeeper a legitimate software for my MacBook?

Is MacKeeper a legitimate software for my MacBook?

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Carbon Copy Cloner
Data Backup
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iBackup
JaBack
Silver Keeper
MimMac
Retrospect
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Referenced software can be found at CNet Downloads or MacUpdate.

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Hey everyone
I have bought a Apple DVI to mini-DVI Video Cable Adapter a while back, which I just recently used for my Macbook. I connected it to a Dynex DVI-to-HDMI Digital Video cable. I connected this to the HDMI 1 output on my 42'' Vizio VP42 HDTV.
BUT nothing comes up on the tv , just BLACK. Am I missing a step, or did I buy the wrong cord.
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THANKS in advance!

I have two Vizio sets that have VGA adapters and I am able to get my computers to output to them. I do not beleive that using HDMI out of the video out will be compatible with your TV. Although you may want to look in the settings for the input you are using on the TV while the cable is plugged in and see if you have the option to change the input to a computer.
Here is some info found from Vizio:
+When it comes to sending out a video signal, Cable boxes and DVD players follow a more defined set of rules. They can do one of several types of resolutions and thats it. Since this is the case the HDMI on our televisions is optimized for the NTSC format signal. So HDMI from a PC doesnt always work 100 percent since its intended design is to optimize signal from DVD players and set top boxes.+
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I want to remove the monitor from my 17" Macbook Pro 2008 to use as an external for my Macbook Pro 15" 2012. How can I convert lvds to Thunderbolt and power the monitor?

I want to remove the monitor from my 17" Macbook Pro 2008 to use as an external for my Macbook Pro 15" 2012. How can I convert lvds to Thunderbolt and power the monitor?

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By the way, I found your answer by searching this forum. I would suggest using the search function here in the futuere.

I bought the Keynote app for my MacBook, but when I open the application and try to install it, I get an error message saying that the application will not work with my MacBook. What gives? And, can I please request a refund? ($19.99 = a week's groceries)

I bought the Keynote app for my MacBook, but when I open the application and try to install it, I get an error message saying that the application will not work with my MacBook. What gives? And, can I please request a refund? ($19.99 = a week's groceries).
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1
Close all iWork applications
2
Uninstall Keynote; this must be done with an application remover tool to delete the installation properly. Appcleaner is known to work correctly for this purpose, it is free and can be downloaded from here: Appcleaner Download
3
empty the trash
4
shutdown the Mac and restart. After the start up chime, hold down the shift key until the apple logo appears
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Reinstall Keynote by logging into the Mac App Store using download / install

I do not have the apple id for the macbook pro which i bought off ebay

I bought a macbook pro model A1278 off of ebay. I got the dreaded flashing folder with question mark. After trying to repair the disk after booting using command r. I then tried to make a new startup disc with and external hd. I got to the point where I have to enter a apple id associated with the operating system I purchased. I used my own which of course is not the one of the original owner. Is there a way around this?

The first thing to do with a second-hand computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received those media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
Some models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you may not be able to reinstall 10.6 even from the original discs, and Internet Recovery may not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

Internal HD upgrade or external HD for my Macbook Pro (Late 2008)

Hello,
I am finding the 250gb internal hard drive not enough and want to upgrade to a 500gb/1tb hard drive for my macbook pro (late 2008 edition).
What I am wondering is whether to change the internal hard drive OR buy the fastest possible external hard drive for my mac which I believe is one that works with firewire 800 as my late 2008 macbook pro does not come with USB 3.0.
The external hard drive I have found is £110 and my macbook would be using the Firewire 800 connection:
LaCie Rugged Triple 301984 1TB USB 3.0 and Firewire 800 5400 rpm Portable Hard Disk Drive
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rugged-Triple-301984-Firewire-Portable/dp/B005C2BNJI
I dont necessarily need the portability of a external hard drive. I work with large files (photoshop, illustrator files mainly) and would would be concerned that I would not be able to work directly on the hard drive for this type of work so an internal hard drive may be better/
Can anyone suggest a good, fast, cheap, popular internal hard drive compatible with my computer and whether you would suggest changing the internal HD or buying an external.
I am running Mavericks and the only other change I have made is by upgrading my RAM from 4gb to 8gb. Thanks so much for your help
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: MacBook Pro
Model Identifier: MacBookPro5,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 2.4 GHz
Number of Processors: 1
Total Number of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 3 MB
Memory: 8 GB
Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MBP51.007E.B06
SMC Version (system): 1.33f8
Serial Number (system): W8******1G0
Hardware UUID: *****
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State: Enabled
<Edited By Host>

For both convenience and speed, I'd recommend replacing the internal hard drive. Your MacBook Pro can handle nearly any internal SATA 2.5" HD on the market, including 7200rpm models. For what it's worth, I'd recommend a Western Digital Black WD7500BPKX or similar or Hitachi HGST 7K1000 although in my experience Hitachi drives run hot and that's the reason I don't use them as internal drives.
FW800 is fine, but then you have an external hard drive to lug around plus the connection is considerably slower than the internal SATA connection used by the internal hard drive.
Note that you will have to either 1) clone your existing drive to the new drive or 2) completely reinstall OSX and all your apps from scratch to the new drive when you replace the internal drive. If it were me, I'd take the opportunity to reinstall everything from scratch.
btw, I have done this myself on a number of 2008/2009 MacBook Pros and it's not hard at all. iFixit has tutorials on how to do this. (Here is a link to the one that I believe is your model.

What is the part number for my MacBook Logic Board?

I have been searching through all of the Apple forums to help me with my issue. My issue is not knowing the partnumber for my MacBook Logic Board. The sticker that is usually found on the ram slots is NOT there.
The information I have for my Mac is:
2.4GHz/2x1GB/250GB/SD
EMC No.: 2254
Serial No: W8846MGM1AX
I hope someone in the community can help me.
Thanks Ahead of time.

The wegenermedia reference relates to some earlier positive results others mentioned some years
ago, and due to that, I sent an iBook computer to them, in a padded box (over-engineered) that I
made, for diagnostic repair service, and it returned with stickers over the screws that said their
warranty would be void if the tape were damaged or removed. I felt sure enough of their work that
I later sold the computer to an 80+ y/o some miles from where I lived, and chose to give him free
support for two years. That means since he never had used a computer, and saw an ad I put on
a bulletin board in that town and chose to reply to it, I even went as far as helping set up printers
and other things he had never done, at no additional profit to me. The iBook was a complete kit
and included original box, plus later OS X and extras, at below other location retail.
I've been in contact with them about two other computers I have, one is an aluminum PowerBookG4
and the other a MacBook1.1 13-inch 1.83GHz first-model, each has issues. The MB1.1 is better, &
it only needs some parts to fix two issues, but it runs well. An occasional winking display, that does
best if left sitting with lid open; and by use of iStat Pro, I see odd information from the CPU temps on
one of the two cores in the processor. Sometimes, it says the core is sub-zero °F, other times hotter
than the other one. And also, it may disappear from the reporting to iStat altogether. So that may be
as simple as a need for new thermal paste if the CPU could be so doctored. They will inspect and
test an item before a firm cost estimate is arrived at. They've also workstations to repair logic boards.
So I'd be willing to bundle up my early MacBook1.1 1.83GHz and send it off for a $200 service, since
once it is opened most issues can be dealt with on the spot, and it would be returned with warranty.
Since my example is a clean one, it may be worth that service. It has 10.5.8; could run 10.6.8 OK.
Anyway, the discussion is a bit afield from the OP topic, except there are experts who can repair an
original logic board; some prefer to see and test the entire machine. Others may swap out the board
for one they've already serviced if available, for turnaround-time sake. They offer older refurbs, too.
Between the sales model number and processor version it should be easier to locate a replacement
for the original post's questionable part issue. Some devices had additional part numbers that may
work, depending on the length of product run and changes in manufacture over the duration.
{Seems to me you'd gone from using Macs awhile, to PC, and were in state of ID awhile, btw.
And the reference email I have, is your first + last name at gmail.}
In any event...
Good luck!

Can I hook use an older iMac as an display for my Macbook Pro?

Can I use an older iMac as an display for my Macbook Pro? The Macbook Pro has the Mini display port and the iMac has the older (larger) display port. I am trying to have a document open on the iMac while writing a paper on the Macbook Pro.
Thank you for your time.

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
You can use the Mid 2011 iMac as a display for your 2011 MacBook Pro. Both have Thunderbolt, so you won't have any problem > http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11302?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US
Buy a Thunderbolt cable and press Command and F2 keys on the iMac to enable Target Display

Large repairs for a Macbook

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