Late 2012 iMac Keyboard Problems

Since I got the new 27" late 2012 iMac I am having keyboard issues.
The issue mainly revolves around the number pad but sometimes the entire keyboard is affected.
So I will be using the Bluetooth wireless keyboard and mouse and everything will be fine.
Then all of a sudden the keyboard does not work. Sometime a reboot fixes it but sometimes not.
Or when I hook up the wired keyboard all of a sudden the number pad on the right does not work but the plus and minus keys do.
It is very strange and odd.
When I called Apple tech support they said go get a new keyboard so I did.
Then when it happened again with the wired keyboard being the problem I took it down to the store and they said because I had bluetooth on it could have been communicating with the wireless keyboard and getting confused.
Now when trying to use the wireless keyboard I have issues and when I use the wired keyboard I have issues.
Any other suggestions?

Similar Messages

Late 2012 iMac / OS X 10.8.5 / Wifi Connectivity Problems

Hello all I am the latest to suffer this so annoying problem. Just today when I came home it's not connecting. I have a late 2012 iMac model - OS X 10.8.5
It's been working for past 2 months...my iPad Mini is working as normal with the wifi but my iMac and also my iPhone 5, both are not connecting to the wifi
I have tried many things from what I have read in threads nothing has worked
Can anyone advise please

Back up all data before making any changes.
Step 1
Take all the applicable steps in this support article.
Step 2
If you're running OS X 10.8.4 or later, run Wireless Diagnostics and take the remedial steps suggested in the summary that appears, if any. The program also generates a large file of information about your system, which would be used by Apple Engineering in case of a support incident. Don't post the contents here.
Step 3
If you're not using a wireless keyboard or trackpad, disable Bluetooth by selecting Turn Bluetooth Off from the menu with the Bluetooth icon. If you don't have that menu, open the Bluetooth preference pane in System Preferences and check the box marked Show Bluetooth in menu bar. Test. Continue if you find that Wi-Fi is faster with Bluetooth disabled.
From that same menu, select Open Bluetooth Preferences. If the box labeled Discoverable is checked, uncheck it. Click the Advanced button, and in the sheet that opens, uncheck the top three boxes, if any are checked. Click OK. Enable Bluetooth and test again.
If the application called "Bluetooth Setup Assistant" is running, quit it.
Step 4
This step will erase all your settings in the Network preference pane. Make a note of them before you begin, and recreate them afterwards. It may be helpful to take screenshots of the preference pane.
Triple-click the line below on this page to select it:
/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration
Right-click or control-click the highlighted line and select
Services ▹ Reveal
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item named "SystemConfiguration" selected. Move the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator password.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar, paste into the box that opens (command-V). You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
Step 5
Reset the System Management Controller.
Step 6
Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service center.
Back up all data on the internal drive(s) before you hand over your computer to anyone. There are ways to back up a computer that isn't fully functional — ask if you need guidance.
If privacy is a concern, erase the data partition(s) with the option to write zeros* (do this only if you have at least two complete, independent backups, and you know how to restore to an empty drive from any of them.) Don’t erase the recovery partition, if present.
Keeping your confidential data secure during hardware repair
*An SSD doesn't need to be zeroed.

Airplay Problem with Late 2012 iMac

Hi all,
Since I bought the iMac, I was never able to function the Airplay.
Spend hours with tech support on the phone, but stil not resolved.
These is no option in Display Preference at all.
Try everything with router, change network, still nothing.
The weird part is, Airplay does work on iTunes.
I also tried install fresh OSX (Mountain Lion), still the same.
I am now on Mavericks, hoping that new OS will solved it, still nothing.
Is there anyone that know what else to do before I bring the iMac to the store?
Cheers,
Aaron

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
It looks like you have an unsupported iMac. Are you sure you have got a Late 2012 iMac? You can check it in  > About this Mac > More Info

[Guide] Install and run Windows 7/8 from an external drive without using bootcamp (works for late 2012 iMacs with 3TB drive)

This is a copy of a post from my blog, you can also Read it on my blog...
Introduction
After I received my new iMac with a 3 TB Fusion Drive, I was disappointed when I realized that Bootcamp was not running on this model and prevented me from installing Windows on it. I wanted to take advantage of the powerful iMac hardware to play games but I couldn't.
There are a few ways of working around this limitation, but I found most of them quite complex and most of the time they required formatting the internal hard drive or repartitioning it and go for a brand new installation of Mac OS X. I was not comfortable with that.
But there is another way, and that is to install Windows on an external hard drive, using either USB or Thunderbolt. Personally I used a Lacie Rugged 1 TB drive that has both USB3 and Thunderbolt connectors. Both work very well.
This guide may interest you if:
You have an internal hard drive of more than 2TB and you can't run bootcamp at all (like late 2012 iMacs with a 3TB drive)
You have limited space or you don't want to dedicate disk space on your internal hard disk drive to a Windows installation
What this guide will make you do:
It will make you erase all your data from your external USB3/Thunderbolt hard drive
It will make you install Windows on your external USB3/Thunderbolt hard drive
It will make you install bootcamp drivers
What this will not make you do:
It will not make you modify anything on your internal Mac hard drive
It will not make you use or install the bootcamp assistant
It will not activate the Preference Pane for the default boot drive. You have to boot by pressing the ALT key to manually select your boot drive each tome you want to boot Windows.
What you'll need
An external hard drive with a USB3 and/or Thunderbolt connector. This drive will be formatted so ensure you saved your files before going further. You can use either an SSD drive or a classic hard drive.
A Windows 7 or 8 install DVD or ISO (check whether to install 32 or 64 bits versions based on your Bootcamp drivers) and the corresponding Windows serial number.
One of the following:
Mac OS X with a Windows 7 or 8 Virtual Machine (use VMWare Fusion or Parallels Desktop for example. Note: VMWare Fusion seems to have some issues with Thunderbolt and USB3. Plug your drive to a USB2 enclosure or hub to work around this -it worked for me-, or use another VM software) → Read the important note below
A PC running Windows 7 or 8 → Read the important note below
Windows AIK (free) running on your Virtual Machine or on your PC, or just the imagex.exe file (the rest of the Windows AIK package is not needed)
Download imagex.exe
Download Windows AIK (this download and installation is not required if you have already downloaded imagex.exe)
Bootcamp drivers for your Mac. You can get these either by running bootcamp from your Mac (Applications > Utilities > Bootcamp) or, if like me you have a 3TB drive and can't run bootcamp at all, use the direct download links here.
A USB stick to store your bootcamp drivers
IMPORTANT: If your Mac has a 64 bits processor, your Windows Virtual Machine on OSX, your Windows installation on your PC and your Windows DVD/ISO must also be in 64 bits!
Step by Step guide
Step 1: Get the install.wim file
If you have a Windows ISO file:
Mount the ISO
If you're on OS X: double click on the ISO file
If you're on on Windows 7: Use a software like Virtual Clone Drive (free)
If you're on Windows 8: double click on the ISO file
Open the mounted drive, then go to the "sources" folder and locate the "install.wim" file. Save this file to C:\wim\ on your Windows installation or virtual machine.
If you have a Windows DVD: open the "sources" folder on the DVD and locate the "install.wim" file. Save this file to C:\wim\ on your Windows installation or virtual machine.
IMPORTANT: If instead of a "install.wim" file, you have "install.esd", you can not continue this step by step guide. And an ESD file can not be converted into a WIM file. So you must get a version of the Windows installation DVD/ISO that has an install.wim file.
Step 2: Clean, partition and format your external hard drive
On your Windows installation or virtual machine, plug in your external hard drive (can be plugged using USB2, USB3 or Thunderbolt at this stage)
Open the command prompt in administrator mode (cmd.exe). To run it in administrator mode, right click on cmd.exe > Run as admin.
Type the following and hit enter to open the disk partitioner utility:
diskpartType the following and hit enter to list your drives:
list disk
This will display a list of disks mounted on your computer or virtual machine. Make sure your drive is listed here before you continue.Identify the disk ID of your external hard drive. Replace # by your real external disk ID in the command below:
select disk #Clean all partitions by typing the following (warning: this will erase all data from your external drive!):
clean
Create the boot parition by typing the following followed by the enter key:
create partition primary size=350
This will create a 350MB partition on your external driveFormat the partition in FAT32 by typing the following:
format fs=fat32 quick
Set this partition to active by typing:
active
Assign a letter to mount this partition. We will use letter B in our example. If B is already used on your PC, replace B by any other available letter:
assign letter=b
Windows will detect a new drive and probably display a pop-up. Ignore that.Create the Windows installation partition using all the remaining space available on the external drive by typing the following:
create partition primary
Format the new partition in NTFS:
format fs=ntfs quick
Assign a letter to mount this partition. We will use letter O in our example. If O is already used on your PC, replace O by any other available letter:
assign letter=o
Windows will detect a new drive and probably display a pop-up. Ignore that.Exit the disk partitioner utility by typing:
exit
Step 3: Deploy the Windows installation image
Still using the command prompt in admin mode (you didn't close it, did you? ), locate the imagex.exe file mentioned in the "What you'll need" section and access its folder. In our example, we have put this file in C:\imagex\imagex.exe
Type the following and hit enter (remember to replace o: with the letter you have chosen in the previous step):
imagex.exe /apply C:\wim\install.wim 1 o:
This will take some time. The Windows installation image is being deployed to your external driveOnce done, type the following to create the boot section (remember to replace o: and b: with the letters you've chosen in the previous step):
o:\windows\system32\bcdboot o:\windows /f ALL /s b:
If you get an error message saying that you can't run this program on your PC, then most probably you are running on a 32 bits installation of windows and you're trying to deploy a 64 bits install. This means you did not read the important notes in the beginning of this guide
If you get an error message on the options that can be used with the BCDBOOT command, then it's because you're installing Windows 7, and the /f option is not supported. If that is the case, remove /f ALL from the command and retry.
Step 4: Boot from your external drive and install Windows
Plug in your external drive:
If you've done all the previous steps from a Windows PC, unplug your external drive from your PC and plug it to your Mac, either on a USB3 or a Thunderbolt port.
If you've done all the previous steps from your Mac using a Virtual Machine, ensure the external drive is plugged in to a USB3 or Thunderbolt port. Using USB2 should also work but you'll get very poor performance so I don't recommend doing that.
Reboot your Mac and once the bootup sound is over, immediately press the ALT (option) key and release it only when the boot drives selection screen appears. If you did not get the boot drives selection screen, reboot and try again. The timing to press the ALT (option) key is quite short. It must not be too early or too late.
On the boot selection screen, choose "Windows" using the arrow keys on your keyboard, then press enter.
The Windows installation starts. Follow the on-screen instructions as normal. The installation program will restart your computer one or 2 times. Don't forget to press ALT (option) right after the bootup sound, and boot on Windows again each time to continue the installation.
Step 5: Install bootcamp drivers
Once the Windows installation is complete, plug in the USB stick where you stored the bootcamp drivers (see "what you'll need" section), open it and right click on "setup.exe" and select "Run as admin". Follow the on-screen instructions.If you have an error saying that you can't run this program on this PC, obviously you have installed a 32 bits version of Windows and the bootcamp drivers for your Mac are made for a 64 bits version. You have to restart the whole guide and make sure to get a 64 bits version of Windows this time!
Once the bootcamp drivers are all installed, reboot and press ALT (option) after the bootup sound to boot on Windows again. And Voilà, you have Windows installed on your USB3/Thunderbolt drive running on your Mac.
Now each time you want to boot on Windows, press and hold the ALT (option) key after the startup sound and select "Windows", then press Enter.

Hi i'm trying to follow your guide, I installed windows 8 on bootcamp to do it planning to remove it after the operation is done, but i get stuck at part 3: every command i give to imagex i get a pop-up ftom windws asking how do I want to open this kind of file install.wim and imagex does nothing, what do i have to do to stop those pop-ups?

Help for with slow, glitchy (late 2012) iMac

This is an ANSWER and not a request for help. I didn't know where to post this and apologize for stepping where I shouldn't.
I have a Late 2012 iMac that has been crashing, running slow, and now worse; all my documents and everything in Finder have disappeared. I discovered a fix that may help others with similar issues. I use my iMac for use with Logic Pro X and Mainstage where freezeups are a disaster. I thought about this awhile and realized I had installed a new USB 3.0 external hard disk a few months ago when this issue began. I began to experience more and more crashes and extremely slow performance. Beach-balls and slow performance were common. But the last straw was when everything in Finder disappeared. My Document and Application folders were empty. If I clicked on "About This Mac" I saw nothing. It took two tries to prove my theory, but here's what I did to make "the fix". I unplugged the USB 3.0 drive and all USB and external devices. I did a restore of OSX Mt Lion. All was back to normal. But after plugging in the USB 3.0 drive, all the afore mentioned problems came back. I did one more restore, this time NOT connecting the USB 3.0 external hard disk. Now I have gone some time and my iMac's speed is back to "incredible", no beach balls or any sign of slow performance in recording or running any other app. Apparently, the 2012 iMac; although spec'ed to be USB 3.0 compatible, may not be all that compatible. Hope this helps someone!

Likely the external drive is bad or defective cable.

Late 2012 iMac does't see the thunderbolt ports

late 2012 imac 3.4 i7 v10.8.5 doesn't see the thunderbolt ports in system report. both ports were working previously ( 2 wd mybookTB duos with raid 1 ). now neither port works.
TB port does work with TB to FW adapter. help.

The following article(s) may help you.
AirPlay Mirroring
Troubleshooting AirPlay
Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections
Recommended Wi-Fi settings
Wifi Diagnostic Software (for Mac users)
You may also find some help on this page, where I’ve collected some of the more unusual solutions to network issues.
Intermittent problems are often a result of interference. Interference can be caused by other networks in the neighbourhood or from household electrical items.
You can download and install iStumbler (NetStumbler for windows users) to help you see which channels are used by neighbouring networks so that you can avoid them, but iStumbler will not see household items.
Refer to your router manual for instructions on changing your wifi channel or adjusting your multicast rate.
There are other types of problems that can affect networks, but this is by far the most common, hence worth mentioning first. Networks that have inherent issues can be seen to work differently with different versions of the same software. You might also try moving the Apple TV away from other electrical equipment.

Late 2012 imac 'not enough ram' for photoshop

I have a late 2012 imac - 3.4 i7 16 gig ram and yet when using photoshop elements 9 it keeps freezing with a message saying not enough ram. Another problem which may or may not be related is MS word tending to freeze when I cut and paste??
Any help greatfully received
Thanks

Well, I use PSE 11 and at least in my version I would recommend, as Adobe does, that you go into Adobe Photoshop Elements Editor>Preferences>Performance>and there I would set your RAM allocation ("Memory Useage" as they call it ) to at least around 12 GB while you are using PSE. It is heavily dependent on the amount of RAM it has available:
Message was edited by: Radiation Mac

What model # of 3 tb non fusion hard drive in late 2012 imac

What Model # of Hard drive is Apple using for the 3 tb non fusion late 2012 imac. 27"
If you have one, can you tell me what drive you have?
Thanks

polygoon wrote:
<...>
On the very first boot, I was confronted with a flashing prohibitory symbol and nothing more. My only option was to perform an online system restore. This seemed to work and I figured the machine shipped without OS X installed, as strange as that seemed.
<...>
I think that paragraph (actually, the first sentence) says it all. I would have returned the system at that point. By attempting to repair it yourself you may have caused further problems and certainly let Apple off of the hook for a bad system.
My system specs are the same as yours.
3.4 GHz i7
3TB Fusion Drive
32GB 1600 MHz DDR3
GeForce GTX 680MX 2048MB
OS X 10.8.2 (12C2037)
I have just over 1TB of my 3TB used up. I just ran the test and received the following results. Note that this is not the best test, just a typical one.
Also my storage shows a total of 3.11 TB where yours shows 3 TB:
And my Serial-ATA item shows the SSD where yours does not:
So I'd say it is time for a visit to Apple. Of course, you could try Apple phone support first if you think they could solve it over the phone. However, as it failed with the first boot (the OS is shipped on the flash) in a way that suggested a valid OS wasn't found, I suspect something is wrong with the flash hardware and a phone call won't solve it.

Dirty inside Screen late 2012 imac

Hi
I have an iMac 21,5", late 2012 model.
I have noticed that the lower left part of the screen has some yellowish rays. About 1 inch wide, 2-3 inches long, going up toward the center of the screen.
Obviously have have cleaned the screen on the outside, and the smudge is clearly not on the outside.
I have attached a photo that illustrates the problem.
Would any of you know what could be causing this?
I was also under the impression that the screen was sealed around the edges.

Klaus, yes, I do intend on doing that.
I have heard that the late 2012 imacs have the front glass and LCD display fused and sealed together, so that it is to be 100% air tight. I wonder if this is really true...

I have a late 2012 iMac running osx 10.8.5. I keep losing access to my internal hard drive. I can reboot and regain access and it will last for a few minutes or hours. Disk utility does not seems to help.

I have a late 2012 iMac with an I5 precessor running OSX 10.8.5 and a 1tb internal hard drive. I keep losing access to the internal hard drive/startup disk.
I can reboot and everything operates as normal for a few minutes or hours but then I lose all access again to anything on the hard drive. The computer is still up and running but no files can be accessed and certain websites cannot be acessed even though internet access appears to be normal. Disk utility can only find permission errors related to iTunes which can be repaired only to come back at the next scan (I would not think permission errors would have anything to do with the hard drive crashing). It does not seem to matter what program I am using at the time access is lost and it can lose access sometimes right after reboot when no program is running.

You will need to boot into the Recovery Volume (command - R on a restart or hold down the option/alt key during restart and select it) to run Disk Utility/Disk Repair.

Installing Adobe Creative Suite - NEW 21" late 2012 iMac - Don't want to buy superdrive!! How can I trick the computer into thinking the USB drive is a CD?

I've got a new late 2012 imac, but I realize yes it doesn't come with a compact disc drive. I have an Adobe Creative Suite CS5.5 install disc with all the information included (serial). I copied the contents of the CD into a USB Flash drive, but I can't get it to install because it is looking for the content on the CD. Since I don't want to have to buy the external Superdrive!! How do I convince the computer into installing adobe via the files on the flash drive?

Your question makes perfect sense to me. I would contact Adobe Supptrt Services from the contacts listed here:
http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/install-creative-suite-5-cs5.html
You will need adobe current serial number.
I hope you'll post here with your results. I've interested know what happens.

Late 2012 iMac Freezes every few days

My iMac has been in the Apple Store for a week with the Geniuses and they came back saying they couldn't find anything so putting this out to this community in the hope someone else can help. Here are the details.
Model: 21.5 inch Late-2012 iMac
RAM: 8Gb
Processor: 2.9Ghz Intel Core i5
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 512 MB
Hard Drive: 1.12 Tb Fusion (653Gb free)
OS: 10.8.4
Software: Fairly vanilla with no MS or Adobe Apps. No system extensions or hacks installed.
Symptom: Every few days or so the iMac locks up. Certain running applications will still work but many common ones such as Pages, Aperture, App Store & TextEdit will hang when trying to open. Force Quitting them doesn't affect them. When I try to shut down the computer it goes to the grey screen and stays there. Eventually the power needs to be turned off to reboot it. This has been doing this for the last several months.
Solutions Tried:
- Fixed permissions
- Reset PRAM
- Re-install OS X
I can't replicate the crash but today it happened again. At around 3:50pm I went to the iMac and noticed that Pages wouldn't load. Force quitting the App didn't do anything. Aperture was not responding so force quit that. Still wouldn't re-open. Mail was working fine and I was able to send a test message. Safari worked fine. Launched System Preferences ok but could not launch TextEdit or App Store. Calendar opened and closed fine. Attempted to restart the Mac but got the grey screen and after 5 minutes of waiting turned the computer off & relaunched it.
Here is a snapshot of some Console entries:
5/09/13 2:27:41.316 PM coreaudiod[122]: Enabled automatic stack shots because audio IO is inactive
5/09/13 2:28:16.449 PM coreaudiod[122]: Disabled automatic stack shots because audio IO is active
5/09/13 2:28:17.262 PM coreaudiod[122]: Enabled automatic stack shots because audio IO is inactive
5/09/13 2:28:50.579 PM com.apple.usbmuxd[68]: _heartbeat_failed heartbeat detected detach for device 0xdf3-10.0.1.10:0!
5/09/13 2:37:54.690 PM com.apple.usbmuxd[68]: _heartbeat_failed heartbeat detected detach for device 0xdfc-10.0.1.10:0!
5/09/13 2:42:04.656 PM lsboxd[209]: @AE relay 61657674:6f646f63
5/09/13 2:47:21.156 PM com.apple.usbmuxd[68]: _heartbeat_failed heartbeat detected detach for device 0xe05-10.0.1.11:0!
5/09/13 4:03:23.428 PM com.apple.launchd[1]: *** launchd[1] has started up. ***
5/09/13 4:03:23.428 PM com.apple.launchd[1]: *** Shutdown logging is enabled. ***
5/09/13 4:03:24.934 PM com.apple.launchd[1]: (com.apple.automountd) Unknown key for boolean: NSSupportsSuddenTermination
5/09/13 4:03:26.157 PM airportd[30]: _processDLILEvent: en1 attached (down)
5/09/13 4:03:26.342 PM UserEventAgent[11]: Captive: [HandleNetworkInformationChanged:2435] nwi_state_copy returned NULL
5/09/13 4:03:26.609 PM fseventsd[39]: event logs in /.fseventsd out of sync with volume. destroying old logs. (419745 5 419906)
5/09/13 4:03:26.612 PM fseventsd[39]: log dir: /.fseventsd getting new uuid: A3689432-84D2-4FB0-8C25-0352BC004F8B
5/09/13 4:03:26.666 PM mDNSResponder[40]: mDNSResponder mDNSResponder-379.38.1 (Apr 25 2013 19:19:56) starting OSXVers 12
Notice that the last Console entry was at 2:47pm (in red) and then nothing. I went to use the computer at 3:50pm and did several actions on it. Plugged in iPad, opened iTunes. Copied a file from the iPad to the desktop. Prior to that it hadn't been used for several hours. The shutdown that I selected does not appear in the log (although it only managed to go to the grey screen rather than complete a full shut down).
Appreciate any clues at all here. This is very frustrating and has been going on for far too long.
TIA. Jordan

Back up all data immediately as your boot drive may be failing.
If you have more than one user account, these instructions must be carried out as an administrator.
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
syslog -k Sender kernel -k Message CReq 'Channel t|GPU D|I/O|Previous Sh' | tail | open -ef
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard (command-C).
Launch the Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Paste into the Terminal window (command-V).
The command may take a noticeable amount of time to run. Wait for a new line ending in a dollar sign (“$”) to appear.
A TextEdit window will open with the output of the command. If the command produced no output, the window will be empty. Post the contents of the TextEdit window (not the Terminal window), if any — the text, please, not a screenshot. The title of the window doesn't matter, and you don't need to post that.

I have a late 2012 iMac and a late 2009 mac mini. I want to know if I can take the 8 GB of ram from the iMac and install it in my mac mini.

I have a late 2012 iMac and a late 2009 mac mini. I want to know if I can take the 8 GB of ram from the iMac and install it in my mac mini.
According to Cruicial my mac mini could use:
Module Size: 8GB Kit (4GBx2)
Package: 204-pin SODIMM
Feature: DDR3 PC3-8500
Specs: DDR3 PC3-8500 • CL=7 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1066 • 1.35V • 512Meg x 64
Also According to Cruical my iMac uses:
Module Size: 8GB Kit (4GBx2)
Package: 204-pin SODIMM
Feature: DDR3 PC3-12800
Specs: DDR3 PC3-12800 • CL=11 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1600 • 1.35V
I want to increase the ram in both computers.
So, can I put the iMac ram in my mac mini and then I'd only have to buy ram for my iMac? Naturally the ulitmate test will be when I actually install it, but having an expectation of success or failure will allow me to plan on what to spend money on.
Thanks,
Bear

Thanks for the responses. I probably wont even try as my priority is Ram for the mac mini. 2 is not enough. 8 for my imac is okay for now.
Somewhere I thought I'd heard that faster Ram would simply clock at the lower speed. It seems that I am incorrect.
Thanks,
Bear

Late 2012 imac bootcamp error"Non system disk, press any key to reboot"

Hey all,
I'm having all sorts of issues with getting windows 7 installed through bootcamp. I have the late 2012 imac 27 inch fusion i7 16 gigs of ram 680gtx. I downloaded the latest bootcamp drivers to my usb after i re-formated it. Partitioned the drive 200 gig windows 700 gigs mac. It restarts and then i get this error screen, "non-system disk.(see photo below) Press any key to reboot." which of course is unresponsive. I hard reset with the Option held into boot back into mac. I'm using Windows 7 64 bit. Please, any help would be appreciated. I have a unopened copy of Bioshock Infinite waiting for me

The Macs with a built-in Optical drive use the Windows DVD, because that is what BC tells it to be set to. The USB is not made bootable on such machines.
The exceptions to this rule are (from Boot Camp 5.1: Frequently asked questions)
Can I use a downloaded (ISO) version of Windows with Boot Camp?
MacBook Air (Mid 2011 and later), MacBook Pro (Mid 2012 and later, including Retina models), Mac mini (Mid 2011 and later), and iMac (Late 2012) can install downloaded (ISO) versions of Windows 7 and 8.

Issue with Fusion drive (Late 2012 iMac)

I have a late 2009 iMac that has been backed up with Time Machine. I recently picked up a late 2012 iMac with the 1TB Fusion drive. When I first plugged in my Time Machine drive, I was asked if I'd like to transfer my files over. I did, and everything was working fine. I was using about 800GB of my 1.12TB Fusion Drive.
I recently decided to add a new partition to the Macintosh HD in order to put Windows on it. I did this through the Disk Utility. I noticed that it was taking an inordinately long time to create this partition. Finally, I realized that the Disk Utility was locked up. I was forced to reboot to fix it.
I went back and tried again and I got an error stating that the drive had errors and I couldn't make a new partition. So I attempted to "repair disk". That gave me an error "Error: This disk needs to be repaired using the Recovery HD. Restart your computer, holding down the Command key and the R key until you see the Apple logo. When the OS X Utilities window appears, choose Disk Utility."
So I rebooted into recovery. Recovery was absolutely no help either. It couldn't repair the drive, even though it had me erase all the data. So I downloaded 10.8.2 on my Mac Mini and made a boot disk out of my Thunderbolt drive. I booted into OS X and tried again to repair, thinking it would work since the Fusion was no longer the boot drive. No such luck. I then booted back into recovery and had recovery download and install a fresh version of 10.8.2. 2+ hours into the download/install, I get an error that says "OS X couldn't be installed because the disk Macintosh HD is damaged and can't be repaired."
Ok, so as a final attempt, I had recovery use my time machine to start over. That worked, kinda. It now shows my Fusion drive as being completely filled in Disk Utility (49KB remains, only about 800 or so was used before), and Finder shows the Fusion drive as being 860GB capacity with 837GB used. I still can't repair the disk. And now my Time Machine acts like I'm working on an entirely new computer and says there's not enough room on the drive unless I format my Time Machine drive and start over.
Yeah, TL;DR, but does anybody have any idea how I can get this issue resolved? I wonder if doing the TM restore from my 2009 iMac may have introduced the non-Fusion version of Disk Utilities that doesn't know how to fix my issue.

Yes I have AppleCare.
Before that I've now made a bootable disk and tried to repair the internal drive, but this was not possible.
I have a Time Machine backup, but excluded some temporary folders.
Is there a way to access these folders in case they aren't in a damaged area?
Maybe using "Target Disk mode"?
I've never done this before.
This Mac has no FireWire, but we have an adaptor for Thunderbolt to FireWire - could I connect an older Mac with FireWire using this adaptor for Target Disk Mode?
Many thanks.

Late 2012 iMac Keyboard Problems

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