Late Vs Early 2008 MBPs - Audio Design/Quality Differences?

Is there any difference in the audio hardware or design between the early 2008 and late 2008 macbook pros? The speaker grill seems finer grain in the late mbps but I wanted to know if there is anything else.
thanks for your help.

Yeah, I know that you can set the samplerate there, you can do that on Windows too. But you don't know what the CODEC really does if you set it below 48kHz. The one in my PC does only some resampling to 48kHz.
There's a file on the net called "udial.ape". As iTunes can't handle Monkeys-Audio, you need some other player like VLC or MPlayer to use it.
If you hear some clear "dialing tones" while playing the file, there is no resampling. You'll hear some strange noises otherwise.
I'll test that later as I'm not in the right environment right now^^

Similar Messages

8GB Ram Late 2007 early 2008 MBPs

Hi,
Has anyone else tried upgrading the RAM to 4GB or 8GB in late 2007/early 2008 models ?
Discussed here some time ago :
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1586222&start=15&tstart=0
John

OWC (in the US) have tested this pretty thoroughly. 6 Gigs definitely works fine in the late 2007 and 2008 C2D models - from the 2.2 and 2.4Ghz "Santa Rosa" models onwards, and they sell warranted 6 gig "kits" accordingly - see http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/MacBook/Pro/Core2/.
8 Gig doesn't work reliably without Kernel Panics , however, despite some earlier reports on the net suggesting that it did.
The earliest C2D models (2.16 and 2.33 GHz) , of course, can only use up to 3Gig.
Cheers
Rod

Early 2008 MBP, can't install OS X

My Early 2008 MBP has a dual hard drive configuration. The stock HDD has all my documents and data on it, the SSD that used to have OS X installed had to be formatted. I tried to use Recovery Mode to reinstall OS X, but the install screen stops at the very end of the installation and says that it could not download the necessary files for the installation. I have tried installing on both of the hard drives even with previous versions of OS X only to yield the same result.

WiFi only shows when there is no Ethernet cable connected and it shows during the Boot Process so you can chose and log in to your WiFi SSID.
1) Right you more then likely bought it with Lion Pre-Installed. But the Early 2011 models originally had Snow Leopard Pre-Installed until Lion came out. Early 2011 models were released in February 2011. Lion came out in June I think and then the late 2011 models came out in October. The the Early "Mid" year 2011 models came with both version of OS X, Snow Leopard and Lion. Depending on when it was manufactured.
2) if you already downloaded and installed Lion a week, or so, ago why are you doing it again? What problem did or are you having that is making you re-install?
Whatever that problem is may be the ROOT cause of the downloading problem you are now having. Like not being able to write to the drive. A HDD failure.
Do you have an external drive laying around? If so connect that external and point the download to that drive and see if it completes and then starts the install. Back up whatever is on that external.
If the download does complete and the install starts then you know it is a problem with the internal drive.

Early 2008 MBP screen not turning on

I have a 15 inch early 2008 MBP that the screen will not turn on. When i power on, the hard drive makes a sound that its turning on, but then nothing happens, there is just a black screen. The indication light is on, but again, nothing on the screen. I have tried pulling out the battery, resetting everything i can reset, but still nothing. Any ideas?

Hi B,
You may have the NVIDIA issue. If you have the GeForce 8600M GT GPU it is covered under the free repair program. Bring the MBP to an Apple Store or AASP for free testing. If Apple's free test confirms the issue, repair is free. Read all about it here: http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2377
There have been stories of, ummm, "uninformed" workers, so print out the article, familiarize yourself with it, and if you meet resistance, politely/firmly stand your ground and ask for someone higher up the food chain if need be. The GPU is part of the logic board, so "repairing" it means replacing the logic board (Some workers have tried to play word games, saying the logic board needed to be replaced so it wasn't a covered repair because it wasn't just the GPU. Grrrrrr!). Good luck!

HI! early 2008 MBP 4,1 startup or power up Failure! HELP! thks!

I have an early 2008 Macbook pro 4,1. The computer was sleeping all night, and when I pull up the screen to use it, the Mac apparently was running but no screen on it, so I try to increase or decrease de light on the screen but nothing happened, so I force it to shut down with the power bottom, then I tried to power it up, and it really does for 2 to 3 seconds, and it shut down... there is nothing at screen. What i did to troubleshoot with no results: press de power bottom for 5 seconds with no mega safe adapter and battery - press de left shift + option + command + power bottom with the megasafe adapter - I did take the HDD - took de RAM memory.
Another thing: When I took the Ram memory the MB stayed beeping like telling me that there was no memory, but it didn’t shut down. I had to shut it down myself...
Any suggestion please!? Thanks a lot!

The early 2008 MBPs had serious videocard problems which you may be experiencing. You will need to go to an Apple Store or service provider to have the MBP tested which may cost you. The problem is that the 4 year extended video card warranty has long expired for all these models so getting a free repair is not likely.
Some discussions to peruse.
https://discussions.apple.com/message/17901599#17901599
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2377
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16921827#16921827

Early 2008 MBP w/ NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT graphics processor fail

My beautiful Macbook Pro 17" (early 2008) just started getting stripes on the screen and randomly shutting down; research and a call to a local Mac repair person say this is the known problem with the NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT graphics processor.
What do I do now considering the class action suit in the States, and it being 2014? Do I take it to my nearest Apple store and request a fix/replacement?
I've been a Mac user since the early 6100, moved to my beautiful G4 ('Albert', as he was lovingly known), then on to the eMac 800. Bought the Macbook Pro 17" in May 2008 because I needed it to travel with but now it's presenting with vertical stripes and will suddenly shut down for no reason.
Have a Mac Mini which is my main machine, but I really need the MPB for when I travel abroad.
I don't think it's fair that the machine I bought, which I now I find out has a known issue with the graphics card, won't get dealt with because Apple closed the replacement programme in December 2012 (according to this page on Apple MacBook Pro: Distorted video or no video issues). And if it's a known faulty piece of hardware that was installed in their machines, how can there be a time limit on the replacement? If I only use my machine once in a blue moon that means it will, logically, fail much later that a person who uses a machine every day, so why do I lose out. I spent just the same amount of money to buy the new machine as everyone else so where are my consumer rights?
If there's an Apple representative that would like to respond and resolve my issue, I would be grateful. I can take my machine to the nearest Apple 'genius' bar tomorrow for the diagnostic to prove it's a faulty Nvidia graphics processor.
I'm hoping my dad with his Dell PC, which he bought in 2005 and is still running, is not right to scoff at my Mac love!
With kind regards,
Tracy Shorrock
@Freelancealot

Hi Kappy,
I found my nearest UK store in Solihull, but it tells me there's no availability for appointments with people with Macs until Friday at 4pm!!! I'll be leaving the country on Thursday and need this sorted out before then.
I don't want to delay my flight, drive all the way to Solihull to be told my MBP is out of the time perioid available for the replacement programme. What exactly do you mean by 'take it in for a service'? If it's the Nvidia card as everything points to, what will they do?
Thanks for your time, and suggestions.
Cheers,
Tracy

Early 2008 MBP screen turns off/on (not NVidia issue)

My MBP is an early 2008 A1260 15" and the screen suddenly turns off and on. Originally I thought it was the NVidia issue but that doesn't seem to be the case because I can hook up an external monitor and get video. I took it apart to check any loose video cables on both the logic board or behind the screen itself and everything seemed intact. I even pushed everything firmly in to make sure the connections were making good contact. The backlight also lights up but without any image so the inverter is not to blame either. Then as I figure it's simply the LCD that has gone bad and i'm using my comp through the external monitor the screen suddenly turns back on and works. Later shuts off and back on. This makes me think it's a faulty cable however everything is connected properly and there were no signs of damage to the video cable.
Any suggestions as to what to check or this could be? I don't want to pay nearly $150 to replace the LCD screen if that's not it. :/

Allow me to elaborate the situation...
Taking in to Apple = $350
Purchasing a new display and replacing it myself = $150
New video cable = $30
Taking it to Apple = No.
I can fix computers on my own but I am a bit stuck on this slightly odd situation so I would greatly appreciate any replies to not include the response, "Take it in to Apple."
I appreciate the suggestion but that's not going to happen after I already took it in thinking it was the NVidia issue and there found it was a display problem.
You're right that it seems it's a component that's failing but that's why I am asking, which other components should I check? Any other similar issues? Etc.
Thank you

How do I clone my hard drive, I want to replace my early 2008 MBP 15"?

I want to know what is the correct way to clone my early 2008 MacBook Pro hard drive, I own SuperDuper. I want to clone the original hard drive and then replace the hard drive with a new 7200 rpm, I have heard the best way to this is to clone the original hard drive, and then once the new hard drive is installed migrate the clone back to the new hard drive.
Can some either give me the steps to this or point where I can get detailed information on how to do this.
As always thanks in advance.
Kindest Regards,
Sebastian

Since you have SuperDuper already, it's simple.
1) Connect an external drive, launch SuperDuper and run a backup (SmartBackup is fine, too).
2) Swap out the drives in the MBP.
3) Connect the external drive to the MBP and boot from it (hold option key at startup).
4) Launch SuperDuper, click the Restore tab, and Restore from the boot drive to the new internal drive.

Early 2008 MBP powers on for ~5 secs then locks

I'm hoping someone can give advice as to what may be the matter with my MBP (other than it being toast). It's an early 2008 model. 2.5 Ghz Penryn + 512 MB GPU.
Here's the story. A small amount of tomato juice was spilt over the computer. It mainly got into the logic board, but it was not extensive. I took it to a repair shop, since my warranty is void, the best they could offer (aside from an estimated $1450 repair job) was to clean it. Instead of paying ~$250 for having them clean the system, I did it myself.
After the spill, nothing powered on. Even when I plugged in the ac adaptor, there was no green light. After cleaning the logic board + all components, the ac adaptor shows a green light, it actually showed the orange light and charged my battery!. If I remove the battery and ac then either plug in the ac or battery, the computer starts to power on. I hear the fans and cpu, then the hard drive starts to spin. Within ~5 secs though it sounds as if the HD locks and then everything shuts off. The display does not turn on / flicker during this time. I believe there should be not issue with the display since the spill was local to only the logic board and DC sound in board. Also,I know the hard drive works because I pulled it and backed up the contents.
I'm wondering if I reconnected something wrong and am causing some short out when powering on. There were two plugs that seemed odd and I wasn't sure what to do with them. One comes from the left part of the display. It is a black wire that does not seem to have any place to connect to. It is bound with two other wires that connect to the wireless card. The second connector is on the logic board. It is in between the RAM and optical drive. There is a 330V transistor(?) next to it and the word power is labeled near it. It looks similar to the connector on the logic board that the keyboard plugs into. I can't find any documentation online (nor plugs in my system) that would go with this connector. I'm not sure if either of these two issues could cause my system not to power on.
Obviously, I recognize that there is a high chance that some part of the logic board is shot, but seeing that I have restored some function thus far, I'm interesting in hearing ideas of what might be be causing this short out other than needing to replace the logic board.
Thanks in advance!

Hi S.U.,
Thanks for the reply! You brought up some good points. I have been following the ifixit & powerbookmedic guides, however the photo examples for the macbook pro differ from macbook pro. Specifically, the connection to the ethernet port. I have three wires where all other examples I've seen have 2 wires. There are labeled connection to the wireless card for black and blue (with gold connector tips). However there is a middle wire that I can't find anywhere to go, it has a black insulation tip. Perhaps I can post a picture tonight to demonstrate exactly what I mean.
I used de-ionized water to clean the components. I made sure that I got every residue removed. I waited 1 1/2 days till I reassembled the unit. I don't have the tape replaced for many areas. That is to say I don't have the clear orange tape replaced. The more solid black sticky covers that went over the DC sound board and one small part of the logic board were fine to reuse. I was concerned that this might cause a short out and tried to start the computer without completely closing the top (keyboard base) so that nothing would touch the parts of the logic board and other components that once had orange tape covers.
I don't think the CPU nor GPU were damaged as there was no evidence of spill residue near the chips (although I guess they could have been damaged in the initial short out).
I don't get any lights whatsoever when turning on the unit. I just hear the fans and potentially the cpu. The hard drive starts to spin too. Then what sounds like the hard drive locking (a decently loud click) occurs, then everything stops. In order to have this process reoccur, I need to unplug all power sources then replug; simply pressing the power button will not get the unit to try to turn on again.
It really seems like a short out. Another reason I think its a short out is that the time window of the hard drive locking and everything stopping is slightly variable (between 5-10s).
I also tried resetting the RAM.
I'll post pics tonight and perhaps you or someone else will see something obvious that I'm missing.
Thanks,
Mike

Upgrading Early 2008 MBP to dual drive format and new OS. Should I install new drives or OS first?

Hi there. I have a Early 2008 15" MBP (4,1). Model A1260. 2.6GHz with a (almost full) 320gb 7200rpm hdd. Instead of spending thousands on a new MBP, I've decided to give my old one a makeover for a few hundred. Here's my situation:
My optical drive is dead. I'm wanting to set up a dual drive situation by adding a 240gb SSD as well as a new 750gb 7200rpm HDD for storage. I have a new optical drive with USB adapter on the way for external use.
I'm also currently running Leopord and want to upgrade my OS X. I have the install disk from Apple.
So my questions are as follows:
1. This is my first venture into performing surgery of any kind on the computer and I'm not a professional. In a broad sense, is this too much for my 'older' computer to handle?
2. If I'm good to go this big, should I upgrade my OS first and then switch out the drives or vice versa?
3. This computer seems to run hot. I feel like it always has and always thought it was because of the 2.6Ghz processor. I'm looking at the WD Black Scorpio 750gb 7200rpm. Is this going to run a lot hotter than my current 300gb 7200rpm HDD? Is there a better option? I usually use it with a USB fan base.
I also just wanted to openly ask for advice in general, based on my lack of experience. Is there something else I should know before diving in?
Thanks ahead of time for taking the time to help. I grately appreciate it! I'm really looking forward to this project!

Hi, what you plan to do will indeed revive your old Mac and make it ~~ fly ~~
Before you do anything else, Backup Backup Backup, at least to Time Machine and one cloned drive BEFORE you embark on any of the above.
kgroove1 wrote:
Hi there. I have a Early 2008 15" MBP (4,1). Model A1260. 2.6GHz with a (almost full) 320gb 7200rpm hdd. ..
So my questions are as follows:
1. This is my first venture into performing surgery of any kind on the computer and I'm not a professional. In a broad sense, is this too much for my 'older' computer to handle?
I have the same model (early 2008 Macbook Pro, A1260, 4,1) and currently run OS X Mavericks on my system with 2 x 1TB Seagate Hybrid hard drives in each bay. Now my computer SINGS.....¶¶•ªªº••¶¶¶
You say that your hard disk space is low and you will find that that is the biggest bottleneck for your system, so upgrading the hard disk space will make a huge diference. But you should also consider upgrading your RAM too. Some time ago I had upgraded my RAM from the factory installed 2 GB to the maximum 6GB allowed on this computer, and it has made a huge difference.
2. If I'm good to go this big, should I upgrade my OS first and then switch out the drives or vice versa?
This step depends on what kind of system you want to set-up. Do you want a clean install, with an out of the box kind of system so that you set up all applications and settings from scratch, or do you want to maintain your old settings and apps as they are, maintaining your users and settings.
The best way to do the latter is to get an external hard drive enclosure to hold the new drive, and after erasing it and formatting it, clone your old hard drive onto it, using Carbon Copy Cloner or Superduper. But for this you will need a SSD with at least the same amount of hard disk space as your current boot drive. After the cloning operation is done, you can swap the drive out from the main enclosure and remove the Optical drive to be replaced by an Optical Bay to hold the new large capacity storage hard disk.
3. This computer seems to run hot. I feel like it always has and always thought it was because of the 2.6Ghz processor. I'm looking at the WD Black Scorpio 750gb 7200rpm. Is this going to run a lot hotter than my current 300gb 7200rpm HDD? Is there a better option? I usually use it with a USB fan base.
In my opinion you do not need a 7200 RPM in your optical bay. A 5400 RPM drive will not be noticeably slower on your system, and the benefit of running this in terms of power usage and heat generation will outweigh the slower speed. Also, the Seagate Hybrid drives that I use have 8GB of Flash memory, to run frequently used apps much faster, and the speeds are excellent with lower heat generation.
To sum up, to lower your CPU temperatures, get more RAM, extra hard disk space for your boot drive and run a lower speed drive.
I also just wanted to openly ask for advice in general, based on my lack of experience. Is there something else I should know before diving in?
Since you are upgrading from Leopard to Mavericks, you will need to putchase a retail version of 10.6.3 (Snow Leopard) or above and install that before you can install Mavericks as a free upgrade. I would install that first, then upgrade to Mavericks on my old system, and only then clone the system afetr checking that it was working to my satisfaction.
BEFORE embarking on any of the above, Backup Backup Backup your current system, at least to Time Machine and one cloned drive.
I have done the 2 x 1TB upgrade just last week and for your reference below is a picture of my own set-up, with hardware links and links to iFixit instructions.
Comprehensive iFixit "How-to" instructiions can be found here:
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/MacBook_Pro_15%22_Core_2_Duo_Models_A1226_and_A1260
For my hardware, see the links below to get some ideas:
Optical Bay Enclosure:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A2VNUK4/ref=noref/278-2586001-6565828?ie=U TF8&psc=1&s=computers
SSD:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQ8RGL6/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=computer s
My HDD:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BHRWHNI/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i02?ie=UTF8 &psc=1
(The picture below is while I was testing the system before I replaced the original 750GB Toshiba with the Seagate 1TB)
Have fun

Early 2008 MBP source drive won't boot after cloning

I cloned the original/source drive, via USB, Carbon Copy Cloner, to a Crucial MX100 256GB SSD. The clone process completed without errors. I powered down the system to do a start-up from the USB drive to see if it would boot. The computer will not start from the source drive and holding the Option key to select a boot drive never gets that far.
I can hear the optical drive try to spin up, the status light blinks quickly like it is trying to start and then quits, remaining a steady light. I have tried Cmd + R at boot without success. Tried the PRAM reset, also the SMC reset.
There is plenty of room on the source drive, at least 160GB. The target drive is the same size as the source drive.
Prior to cloning the source drive and powering down, the computer was operating flawlessly. This an early 2008 model with the 2.5Mhz processor.
Any recommendations? I am hesitant to remove the source drive and install the cloned SSD for concern that I'll end up with some other trouble.
I do not have a start up disk. BTW, the OS X is Yosemite, the most recent version, .10, I think.
Thanks,
Bob

wsev1955 wrote:
I have a HP Pavilion Dv4170us laptop added some new upgrades to it.. max RAM 2GB... a new battery... and I bought a 160GB samsung IDE drive to replace the origional 100GB drive...Using EZ Gig II software and usb drive adapter I successfuly cloned the smaller hard drive but when I swaped them out it won't boot windows xp.. just a black screen with the blinking curser at the top left corner... using my windows xp pro disc.. i ran the system recovery and tried first fix mbr command... then I tried fixboot.. I also looked for the boot.ini file which is not in the C: root drive...I only found a back up copy of it in the windows/pss folder... this is on both drives.. so the cloeing copied it all... but the origional drive will boot and the new one won't... I even tried reinstalling XP as a repair installation...still nothing... any ideas??
Hi,
Can you see the new hdd in the BIOS?
Dv6-7000 /Full HD/Core i5-3360M/GF 650M/Corsair 8GB/Intel 7260AC/Samsung Pro 256GB
Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

Early 2008 MBP 4,1 massively underperforming on fresh Leopard installation

I still love my Macbookpro 4,1 2.5 Ghz with 4GB ram, but when I think of how fast she used to be, <sigh>
One day she just stopped performing. I have reinstalled Leopard 10.5.6 and stillm any processor intensive task is met with insanely long "Estimated time to completion...." notes.
My score on the Geekbench2.1 test is about 648 (link here: http://browse.geekbench.ca/geekbench2/view/109501) whereas most MBP4,1 clock about 2400
As I said, I have reinstalled to OS from scratch, aside from slightly more peppy os x responses, anytime I try and export an mp3 or video its incredibly slow.
During bootup (take 45 seconds, not so bad) the screen flashes red for a moment and then multiple shades of blue before skipping the progress bar completely and jumping into my OS X desktop background.
I fear that it is a hardware problem - I am way over on the other side of the world so sending it in for repair is not really an option at the moment.
It works, but its operating at a fraction of its potential.
Any suggestions?

Hi Surfacescan,
It sounds like your processor is throttling. Intel CPUs have built in thermal protection, where they slow themselves down when they get too hot. Have you heard of a Dashboard widget called iStat Pro? You can get it here: http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/ This widget allows you to monitor temps and fan speeds under OS X. Download and install it, and check your temps and fan speeds. My Early 2008 idles at around 50 C for the CPU, and the fans at around 2000 RPMs. If your CPU temp gets too high it will slow down and quit running. If your fans are not running, or are running too slow it could also increase the temps.
TechTool Deluxe is really just another hardware test like the Apple Hardware test, it will probably not help you here. Something else you could try, is to use the BSD underpinnings of OS X and check what speed your CPU is really running at, open a Terminal and type this command and press Return
sysctl hw.cpufrequency
This will display the number of times your CPU's processor ticks per second, based on the OS X kernel. If you get a number other than 2500000000 (which is 2.5 GHz spelled out), then your CPU is definitely throttling for some reason. Post back here with your results. Good luck!
Rich S.

667 MHz v 800 MHz RAM in a Mac Pro 3,1 (Early 2008), will it make much difference?

I know that the Mac Pro 3,1 (Early 2008) are supposed to run the 800MHz ram, but I’m aware that they also happily run the slightly less expensive 667MHz ram as well?
In the real world would you actually notice much difference between the two? Just that I have 24GB of 667MHz that I could swap over from a 2,1 model into this, or would I be better off in the long run biting the bullet and buying some 800MHz ram?
Interesting to see that OWC seem to ave some kind of exclusive deal on some 8GB 800MHz ram modules that could take the 2008 Macs up to 64GB in total!

In this case and Early 2008, 667MHz FBDIMMs have never shown to be an issue, work fine (4% hit at most, which can also be offset by using all 8 DIMM slots with four sets which improves memory bandwidth to it s best).
There have been a few 'enterprising' individuals that have had access to and used 8GB DIMMs for 32 and 64GB total memory w/o trouble but in that case you would want 800MHz DIMMs.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#800-memory
FBDIMMs like many memory modules are not locked to a specific timing and frequency and can be backward compatible.
These from Amazon are only 2GB DIMMs but known to work in 2006-2008. When you get into 4GB the price has jumped up. And 8GB prices have been in the stratosphere, or had free access to server memory source.
2x2GB FBDIMM DDR2 667MHz @ $25
http://www.amazon.com/BUFFERED-PC2-5300-FB-DIMM-APPLE-Memory/dp/B002ORUUAC/
Komputerbay 8GB (2x 4GB) DDR2 667MHz ECC FB-DIMM (240 PIN)
http://www.amazon.com/Komputerbay-PC2-5300F-Buffered-FB-DIMM-Heatspreaders/dp/B0 05HIWD5U/
OWC 8GB FB-DIMM Memory Upgrade Kits for Apple Mac Pro 2008 Released 64GB $320
http://benchmarkreviews.com/7366/owc-8gb-fb-dimm-memory-upgrade-kits-apple-mac-p ro-2008-released/
Ideal RAM config is 8 DIMMs - offers 15% improvement memory bandwidth performance
667MHz FBDIMMs are cheap, excellent and 4% 'hit' you would never know about.
http://www.barefeats.com/harper5.html

My early 2008 MBP has a broken logic board.

I can hear the little dvd driver noice when pressing the switch button.
Then nothing happens : black screen but little white light near the screen lock though.
It isn't starting up: I don't hear the hard disk nor the intro tune.
I brought it to the service center and paid 30 euro to hear the logic board has to be replaced : cost 1002 euro.
I'm very disappointed now : have been a proud Apple suporter for so long, but now I feel very sad.
I decided not to have it fixed and bought a second-hand MB.
Question :
Does the solution seems to meet the symtoms ?
Are there other ways to solve it?
I also would like apple to react, but don't know how to contact: I have had a normal use of my MBP for 3 years, why does it break suddenly?
Is this a common problem?
Regards, J.

If, by design, all the delicate parts are together on one board, that has to be to replaced when one element deffects, then the design is poor, I am very sorry if you don't see my point.
That design decision — shortening the physical and electrical distances between components, and integrating them wherever possible — is exactly what has enabled computers to become as small as they are and as fast as they are. The fact that highly complex assemblies need to be replaced when any component on them fails is an unfortunate but inescapable consequence of the drive to make computers ever smaller and more powerful. You don't have to like that, and you're free to buy bulkier, slower, less integrated equipment if you want to be able to have it serviced less expensively.
I understand you would pay the repair, and that's ok!
It's not OK with me. I won't pay for your repair.
I would have liked to direct my question to Apple directly, but I challenge you to find a customer relation email.
You can't find a Customer Relations email address because there isn't one. To talk to Customer Relations in the United States, call 1-800-767-2775. Outside the United States, call AppleCare and ask to be connected to a Customer Relations representative or the equivalent. You may be required to pay for the call. Apple doesn't use email as a primary contact channel. I suspect that's because not many people write clearly enough in any language to communicate efficiently via email. If you doubt the truth of that observation, read these forums for a while. I suspect you'll agree. It's much quicker to cut through unclarity and miscommunication in a phone call than in a flurry of back-and-forth email messages.
For a second opinion about what's wrong with your machine, take it to a second Apple Store or Authorized Service Provider. No one here can diagnose it.

Early 2008 MBP won't boot from internal disk

Hello Apple Community,
This is my first post here I hope somone can help me. I have a MBP from 2008 I upgraded to Lion about a month ago and had some minor issues right away, but now I can't get past the boot screen without a kernel panic. I did a time machine restore to one of my external drives and it boots up fine. I figured my internal drive was going bad so I installed a new one yesterday and the exact same Kernel Panic happens. I don't live in a city with an apple store so that isn't an option for me. I am contemplating going all the way back to leopard because the was the last os I can remember that was completely stable for me. Any suggestions?
Thank you

Check the format of your replacement drive. Verify that is was formatted as GUID. Often times the drives are formatted to the older scheme. It must be a GUID partition scheme to be bootable with an Intel Mac.

Late Vs Early 2008 MBPs - Audio Design/Quality Differences?

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