LED display has blue cast compared to 23" LCD display

Just purchased the 27" LED Cinema display. It is side by side with my 23" LCD display. The colors are dramatically different. Is there some way to calibrate the new 27" monitor so that it has the same appearance as the 23" LCD or is the technology so different that they will never really look similar? I have a Mac Pro 2 X 2.4 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon.
thanks
russ

Yes, they do frequently have blue tints which cannot be calibrated out. I had to return two of them because of the problem and eventually just got my money refunded. I was told that Apple Engineering had no fix other than to suggest using a professional calibrator system which would almost certainly have done no good. I'd suggest you return the Thunderbolt display for refund and buy a different brand  or wait until Apple releases a new generation of displays, whenever that happens.
Regards.

Similar Messages

  • Blue cast to display

    My black MacBook display is showing everything as if through a blue filter. Also, since updating iTunes this weekend, I find that when I log in it takes a much longer time to show my desktop preferences - it shows the generic blue swirl background before mine appears.
    The computer was not restarted after the installation but if anyone has any suggestions about the blue cast to my screen today, I'd be very grateful. Thanks!

    Thank you for the suggestion. I checked the settings but couldn't see that anything has changed. However I did do a simple restart and it sorted out both problems - clearly something wasn't connecting with something the way it should!

  • Everything in iPhoto has a blue cast to it.

    Open iPhoto and everything (including backgrounds everywhere has a blue cast to it.   Any idea of what it is and how to get rid of it.   I suspect some combination of keys led to this, but it is very disconcerting.

    I just went into setting, then auto brightness and notices int was really low on the scale.  I slid it to the right and all of a sudden it was back to normal.  Thanks for the tip!

  • HT3805 Sudden problem: Adjustment panel blank (metadata and library OK). Thumbnail shown as file loads but then  image has dark blue cast and is not adjustable.  Have current version of Aperture running.  Help please

    Aperture Help needed: Adjustment panel is blank, although metadata and library panels normal.  Thumbnails appear normal but when RAW (CR2) file is loaded, it appears with a dark blue cast, and does not load into the adjustment panel, and is not adjustable. Suggestions please

    You may need to register your camera with the the launch service database again, see this post by Alan Roseman: Re: Aperture 3 preview of raw file greenish
    There is a "typo" in the command given in the link above, so read also the following posts on how to correctly enter the command and how the fix is supposed to work
    Good luck.
    Post back, if this does not help.
    Regards
    Léonie

  • Question re: 1920x1200 RGB LED Display and the Macbook Pros LED display.

    My question to the Apple guys here is. What type of LED technology is used in the MacBook Pro's LED display?
    I just did a side by side with my buddies new 15" MBP and my new DELL Studio 1737 which has a 1920x1200 which has RGB LED display. I had it second day air FEdEx shipped because I was dying to see this new tech.
    And did it blow us away, supposedly since its this new RGB LED it displays something around 98% or 110% of the NTSC color gamut very accurate for graphics and photo work.
    My buddy almost dropped when we saw the color accuracy and differences with the MBP. And why hasn't Apple adopted this superior technology?

    What do you mean they don't have LED its right on the main page.
    Read it carefully, it says "Ultrathin 15-inch LED-backlit display." The "LED-backlit display" part means that the backlighting is LED (as opposed to fluorescent), not the display panel itself (which is LCD).
    ...Dell has the RGB LED backlighting....
    The Dell display you referred to is an RGB LED display, it doesn't have (or need) backlighting. It uses red, green and blue light emitting diodes to produce images, as opposed to a liquid crystal display, which uses color filtered backlighting to produce images.
    its confusing why Apple has not adopted this new tech to its high end $3,000 MBP 17 models.
    Yet. The 17" MBPs are reportedly due for a significant hardware revision next month. In any case, RGB LED displays have their own performance issues when compared to LCD displays, so don't get too excited, and they may not be thin enough to fit Apple's ultrathin design philosophy.
    I have no idea what RGB LED was it just seemed better, and boy did it pay off.
    I'm sure you'll have loads of fun with Windows Vista.

  • 24" LED display just DIED!!!!

    My 24" LED display has been working without issue connected to my Mac Mini server, but tonight just started flickering (mostly black with an occasional split second glimpse at a blue screen then straight to black again).
    I shut the Mac Mini down (held power button in was the only route). Reset SMC, PRAM etc etc, restarted but no image at all on the 24" Display.
    I connected up a Samsung Full HD monitor I have kicking around through the Mini DVI to DVI adapter and no flickering.
    I connected the 24" up to my 27" iMac MDP and. . . nothing. 24" is completely dead.
    Anybody else experienced this or similar. Anyone experienced this and found a fix?
    Apple Store tomorrow that's for sure!

    Update:
    I contacted my local Apple Store and booked a Genius Appointment (saw them on Tuesday- just passed- @ 3).
    Genius was a great guy. Diagnosed the issue and ordered a new replacement unit, which should be here today or tomorrow.

  • Very slight blue cast on epson r1900 when match print color check box is checked

    Ok, so this problem has been bugging me for some time now and I know other people have it too, because I can see it some of the screen shots. 
    I am running CS3 and and epson r1900.  Using the latest drivers, and latest ICM epson paper profiles downloaded again just yesterday.  So what happen is when I go to print a photo, whenever I check the match print color box, the proof instantly assume a very light blue cast which prints on the paper as well.
    Let me tell you what I know it is not.
    1.  It is not double color management- ICM is disabled on the epson print manager side
    2.  It is not a badly calibrate monitor, My spyder 2 is working just fine.
    I am wondering if its some type of gamut compression inherint the the ICC profile, but if that were the case, if I converted my photo into the icc's color space, it just take on the blue cast, but it does not it.  The blue cast appears only after the match printer colors check box is checked.  Even if I add additional whitespace to the picture, that what space, which when you think about it, should just be paper white, get printed again with the light blue cast.  In checking and unchecking that above mentioned box, I can see that other features within the photo are being affected or shifted as well.  If I use a different icc profile, say, the Kodak Professional Paper profile or a red river paper profile, there is no Blue Cast period when the box is check or unchecked, so it seems to be something related to epson profiles, and Photoshop.
    I have removed the printer and reinstalled with all the latested drivers available at epson website, as well as removed all my old epson paper iCC profiles and reinstalled them from that latest available from epson as well.
    I can see on some epson printing tutorials avaiable on the web, this blue cast in the screen shots.  Like here- http://www.gballard.net/psd/printing_epson_photoshop_cs3.html
    compare the the preview print area , the the white in the in input box for print size and you can see there is a cast.
    So is this normal?
    thanks
    Patrick

    Patrick,
    ICC profiles include white point information.  When you check  the match print color box, Photoshop trys to show a quick soft proof of your image there in the print dialog.  The blue cast is Photoshop trying to simulate the white point in the profile - which happens to be the shade of the paper.  Some papers have more of a pronounced blue or yellow shade, and this shows up in the soft proof.
    In reality you will not see nearly the level of shift on a print as you do in the Photoshop print dialog.  That soft proof is not really super accurate.
    To summarize it is indeed the paper ICC profile that is causing the effect.  Different profiles will all show slightly different variations in the white point under these circumstances.
    Drew Hendrix
    Red River Paper
    www.redriverpaper.com

  • !!! We Want Design-Specs Of The MEGA LED-displays !!!

    Every once in a while someone opens a topic in which he/she askes for a possibility to control the LED display. Some have even sent e-mails to MSI support, only to receive no for an answer. I see no reason why MSI could not release more details about the LED panel, specifically because most of us feel like a bunch of Beta-testers. Hey, we don't even ask for a complete SDK-kit, I think that sufficient knowledge about (hardware)programming is available amongst the users of this forum to make direct use of the design specifications.
    Therefore I would ask you to reply to this post to make a general statement towards MSI, and hopefully convince them of releasing the so-wanted data.
    JaDi.

    I think you know that I want this for a long time:
      sure I will support you
    But unfortunatly I see just two solutions for this problems you won't like:
    [list=1]
    We program it
    We all travel to the Taiwan headquarters and start a hunger strike on front of the main building.[/list=1]
    I prefer 1  
    Second thing: I worte to MSI (germany) for the specs of the LCD and they transfered by to a technician/programmer in Taiwan. After his holiday he told me that he mustn't give any information about it out. This is again one more example of data protection that just blocks every kind of progress. At the moment I AM expecting an SDK. I won't spend my whole free time to do THEIR job - well and if I do - I'm sure I will charge. I've seen this trouble with the girder plugin which was very very little work compared with an LCD control - enough is enough
    Why should anybody of us HELP MSI do make their products more attractive? That's what it's really all about.
    Regards
      Nathan

  • How do I export a video without a heavy blue cast

    I use imovie 3. I can download and edit my movies. The finished product looks good on the computer. However, when I export, the video has a very heavy blue cast even when viewing on the computer. But, if I export as an email or web file then the colour is ok but the quality is poor. I would like to copy some of my videos on to cd's with correct colours. Any ideas??

    You can only export in the same resolution that you imported.
    That is if you shot in 720p you cannot export in 1080p.
    Share > YouTube and select the highest resolution available.
    Z.

  • Macbook goes to sleep randomely when connected to Apple LED Display

    I have  an issue with my Macbook Pro (2009 model) when it's connected to my 27' Apple LED Display. For no apparent reason that I can tell, it just goes to sleep at random, and after I wake it up by pressing a key (bluetooth keyboard), the mouse cursor looks messed up:
    It might be a bit hard to tell from the blurry photo (I don't know of a way to take a screenshot with the cursor, so I used my iPhone), but it's too halves of the spinning beachball.
    There's nothing in the console's log that indicates the reason for switching to sleep mode. It's also not the magnets of the Macbook pro used to detected when the lid is closed (I'm using the NoSleep utility that prevents that behavior). I've already tried resetting the PRAM. Also, this behavior never happens when the macbook isn't connected to the external display, so that probably aint a heating problem either (also the temperature readings are all in bounds).
    Any help would be very appreciated, as that thing is driving me crazy.

    Jon,
    Along the lines of my comment in your other thread. The battery connection cable between the logic board and the battery is also known as the "sleep/switch" connector. This little cable not only communicates battery power to & from the machine but also has a handle on regulating the machine's sleep process (and wake from sleep).
    I've seen several MacBooks that have come across my work bench which are suffering from this exact issue you're describing and we're remedied by replacing that cable.
    The component I'm referring to is this one-
    http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Battery-Connector-Sleep-Sensor-non-E nergy-Star/IF186-015

  • Macbook to LED display: help me save my battery!

    I have a brand new macbook pro 13-inch, and i have it connected to an apple LED display (the one that came out right before the new thunderbolt led display). There are 3 connections from the macbook to the display. One goes into the power supply port  one into the DVI or thunderbolt port, and the other into the USB.
    I am wondering why i can't just remove the first one (the power supply) without my external monitor turning off?
    Why should that happen, when the monitor has its own power supply coming from a cord plugged into the wall, and why can it not just run off of my laptops battery?
    The reason i'm asking is because i don't want to have the power supply constantly plugged into my laptop anymore. The last laptop that i did this with, the battery expanded and warped my computer.
    I very rarely use my laptop as an actual laptop, so i like this setup where my laptop acts as sort of a desktop computer, with wireless keyboard and mouse connected.
    i have no other way to drain the battery essentially, but when i unplug it, the external monitor turns black. is there some way to stop this from happening? I dont understand why it would effect the monitor when it should be getting it's power from the wall.

    By design, the iphone will sync itunes content with ONE computer at a time. If you attempt to sync such content with a second computer, ALL itunes content will first be erased from your phone & then replaced with the content from the second computer. This is a design feature & cannot be overridden. Because you formatted your computer, the iphone will see your computer as a "new" computer.
    1.First, disable auto sync when an ipod/iphone is connected, in preferences, in itunes, which in windows is in the edit menu.
    2. Put one contact & one event in whatever programs you use for that purpose on your computer, they can be fake, doesn't matter, the important point is to have one entry in each.
    3. Connect your phone, itunes running, DO NOT SYNC.
    4. Go up to Store>Authorize this Computer.
    5. Go up to File>Transfer Purchases. All of the purchased itunes content on your phone will be transferred, music you ripped on your own will not be transferred. You will have to use third party software to first extract that music from your phone BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING. Same for photos not in your camera roll, the photo sync is one way...computer to phone. This is one example:
    http://www.wideanglesoftware.com/touchcopy/index.php
    6. Right click the phone in the device pane & select Reset Warnings.
    7. Right click the phone, again, & select Backup.
    8. Right click the phone, again, & select Restore from Backup. Select the backup you just made.
    9. This MUST be followed by a sync to restore your itunes content, which you select as before from the various tabs.
    You'll get a popup regarding your contacts & calendars asking to merge or replace, select merge.
    This article details what's included in the backup you'll make & restore from:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766

  • IMac and 24' LEd Display

    Hi,
    I'm sure this is really obvious but I have ordered a new iMac + LED display; will I get the cables I need to connect or will that be an additional purchase? The only cables for the Mini DisplayPort seem to be adapters and I can't see the likely connectors mentioned 'in the box'.
    thanks.

    This is a really nice setup from what I can tell. I wouldn't know for sure because my wife hasn't left the computer since we installed ours. She has had "network" problems at work and came home to work from home.
    We put the LED display on a VESA arm to rais it an allow it to be rotated to portrait as well. Nice setup if you do photography or video stuff.
    Cheers.

  • 24" LED Display from DP/HDMI/DVI

    I have a 24" LED Display and I'm looking to use it with a homebrew PC. The video card I'd like to buy has output in DVI, HDMI and regular DisplayPort (but not Mini DisplayPort).
    I would think that going between regular DP and mini DP would be easy, but I haven't been able to find adapters that go from male DP to female mini-DP. Am I going to need to buy a video card that specifically outputs in mini-DP?
    Thanks

    <http://estore.circuitassembly.com/products/Mini-Displayport-Female-to-Displaypo rt-Male-Adapter-Cable.html>

  • 27" LED display drawing too much USB power?

    I'm having the infamous "USB device is drawing too much power" issue, but in my case it's a little different. Whenever I plugin the USB cord from my 27" LED display to the MacBook, it results in the above error (too much power, USB is disabled).
    I've narrowed down the following:
    1. Happens on two different MacBook Pros.
    2. Happens when LED display is powered from different outlets.
    3. It seems 2 of the 3 USB ports on the back of the display are not working.
    This started happening after I moved about a month ago and reconnected everything, including a USB Hub I was using previously. I also have a SD card reader, all of which was plugged in and ready to go. When I powered up everything, the lights on the Card Reader and USB were actually pulsing, which didn't look right so I immediately powered everything down. Checked all connections and tried again. Same thing happened, so I unplugged the card reader and USB hub.
    At this point, I had my keyboard plugged into the monitor which is how it was prior (before my move). I powered up everything again and while waiting for the keyboard to come on (the keys are illuminated), I noticed it was actually VERY hot - the underside of the keyboard. So I unplugged it and had a little bit of a sonofa***** moment. The keyboard seemed fried. It wouldn't come on for anything, so I went and bought a new one.
    Soon as I get home, I plugged the new keyboard directly into the laptop and ignored the external LED display. Everything seemed to work fine, so I tried plugging the external monitor in, but soon as I connected the USB cord... this error pops up every single time.
    Is this a USB cord issue (on the LED display) or what?  I'm at a loss of what could have happened, since when I moved everything was transported very carefully. The LED display was even in it's original retail box, so nothing was damaged in the move, USB cord included.
    Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I know ultimately I may need to bring it in for repair (still within warranty as I purchased the display in May 2011)... but I'm trying this first incase anyone has any ideas that could help me avoid that hassle.

    Smc reset sometimes addresses some power issues.
    It is possible that when that first keyboard failed when plugged into the back of the display it somehow damaged the display usb ports.
    If you are under warrantee, take it to apple and let them deal with it.

  • How well does the new Apple 24" LED Display work?

    Hey guys
    Im thinking of purchasing a 24" LED Display from Apple, just because I need a bigger screen to work on, as I edit photos, and film and I've been looking into one for awhile. Buck for buck, is this monitor a good companion to the unibody MacBook pros with the mini display port? Of course, its looks all glitz and glamour on the mac site but has anyone worked with these things hands on? What are the pros and cons?

    The display is very easy to use; considering you'll probable be plugging in the display multiple times per day this is really important.
    The built in display is LED lit (cool light) sense the 24" is also LED lit (cool light), there is a greater consistency in color between the two displays.
    Traditional LCD displays have a warmer glow due to using a fluorescent tube. Trying to go between LED and and fluorescent tube displays could drive you insane. especially if your using both displays at the same time for photography, where color can be very important.

Maybe you are looking for