LEFT I/O BOARD

Hello,
I recently damaged my Left I/O Board to my MacBook Pro 17" and I am looking to purchase one online. I have two 17" MBP's...I swapped boards and both computers work great with the same board, so that is indeed the issue. I don't want to deal with Apple Geniuses...I just want to buy the part and install it myself.
Can anyone please let me know where I can find this part?? Does anyone know the part number?
It's for a 17" Macbook Pro 2.6ghz...early 2008 model perhaps? I purchased two of them in June of this year.

Your best shot is finding an independent Apple retailer that does service and see if they will order it for you. Or, try iFixIt.com. They may have one or be able to order on for you.
Dave M.
MacOSG Founder/Ambassador  An Apple User Group  iTunes: MacOSG Podcast
Creator of 'Mac611 - Mobile Mac Support' (designed exclusively for an iPhone/iPod touch)

Similar Messages

MacBook Pro 15" 2007 is dead. How to make sure it's the left I/O board?

My 15" 2007 MacBook Pro is now completely dead. No light on the 85W magsafe (which does work on unibody MBP 15), battery completely empty, no sign of life whatsoever. Apple Store says I need a new "logic board" but could not specify which one, main or left I/O. How can I make sure it is the left I/O board?
The computers' power circuits have been steadily declining in recent months. It has a checkered history - it's the one that ran hot, had kernel panics due to graphics card drivers, and had the graphics card hardware issue. The computer died in October 2008 and "the logic board" was replaced under Apple Care, free of charge. When AppleCare ran out I bought a unibody MPB and my son inhereted the 2007 model, using it for his music and being pretty happy with it, until the battery would not charge anymore. He then ran it on the power supply only, until it would not boot up. Apple Store did some magic with it (probably reset SMC), it ran for a while longer without charging battery, then did the same thing (not booting, but magsafe connector showing green LED). Searching on the web I found some hints as to how to reset SMC and this worked - once. Took the computer off the magsafe when going on a holiday, when I came back it had deceased.
Apple Store quoted $ 540 for a logic board replacement. The left I/O board is available online for $ 119 and I am able to mount it myself, would do so if I could make sure that this unit has failed and not the main board. And that, friends, is my question.

Let the Apple folks - or an AASP - run diagnostics on the machine. They'll be able to tell if you need a new logic board or not. Get an estimate - if it seems outrageous then it's probably time to buy a new computer.
Just my 2¢...
Clinton

If my left USB port works, will a Left I/O Board replacement fix my issue?

I recently bought a Macbook Pro 2.33GHz off of craigslist. The seller made it seem like the issue was a dead battery because it would not take a charge. I have been looking online and it seems like the Left I/O board could be the issue. I have no problem buying one of these and replacing it myself, but I want to know if that could be the issue even though my left USB port and headphone jack works (part of the same board).

Hi acceler8,
before making a decision why not simply take the battery for testing at a local Apple AASP or store or try it in another MBP? If the battery proves to be the cause of the problem, then a new I/O board is not likely to do much good. If the battery is fine, then the I/O board would be one of the candidates as the cause of the problem. But a "battery that won't take a charge" usually results from either it being defective, OR from it having been allowed to discharge to a point where its own built in microprocessor is no longer able to operate (in the latter case they can sometimes be revived, if they have't been left too long).
But it is far easier/cheaper to get the battery tested first, than to go to the work and expense of replacing the i/o board and then find you you simply really needed a new battery anyway!
If the computer runs fine off the mains power supply it is unlikely to be the I/O. More likely to be the battery or the logicboard.
Cheers
Rod
Message was edited by: Rod Hagen

Power Adaptor, Battery or left I/O board Going Out?

This is driving me crazy, Im slowly losing power..
I have a MBP 17 That I purchased in mid January from Apple directly.
Battery is no longer Charging, The Light on The Magsafe light is very Dim but shows Green, not visible unless the adaptor is covered or in a dark room.
This started seven days ago. At first I was able to charge but it has progressively gotten worse. Four days ago the battery information stopped showing if the battery was charging. But Looking at the Charge remaining Battery information in System Profiler showed it was slowly charging back up.. Now It is slowly Using the battery while Plugged in, As in about 1% per hour. With the Better Energy Savings set. Even with the MBP off It will not charge the Battery...
Light On the Adaptor will not go off, even when the adaptor is unplugged from the MPB. Light will only go out when unplugged from the wall.
I plan to run Hardware test when I get back home some time early next week.
Steps I have taken.
Cleaned Receptor for the Magsafe adaptor.
Checked to make sure no Pins were stuck, bent or missing.
Tried Both the Plug adaptors,
Tried different wall outlets - My House, My Friends House, at the local Coffee Shop.. No change
Reset the PRAM and NVRAM
Reset SMC
Thank you for your time.
Here is the Battery information from System Profiler.
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number: SMP-ASMB014-378e-838
Manufacturer: SMP
Device name: ASMB014
Pack Lot Code: 0002
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0110
Hardware Revision: 0500
Cell Revision: 0102
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 5897
Fully charged: Yes
Charging: No
Full charge capacity (mAh): 6140
Health Information:
Cycle count: 21
Condition: Good
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 0
Voltage (mV): 12420
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 5
Automatic Restart On Power Loss: No
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Wake On LAN: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 5
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 1
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Reduce Brightness: Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed: No
AC Charger Information:
Connected: Yes
Charging: No
Message was edited by: Justin TaxisGraphis

When you live outside of the United States, it can be difficult to obtain the excellent service that we in the US enjoy. I don't know who you contacted in Chile or in the US since I do not see a support site for Chile--only Brazil. But I'll give you the page for contacting Apple for Support and Service:
http://www.apple.com/support/contact/phone_contacts.html
If the problem first appeared after 13 months, then you are out of the 1 year warranty period for the computer. However, the battery warranty may still be in effect since that was extended. More about that below.
When you call Apple with unresolved issues, you may wish to ask for Apple Customer Relations. They are an upper tier whose mission is to try and solve problems so that Apple customers are happy.
Also, I am wondering about the diagnosis you received and if you might want to look for a second opinion. When there are charging problems such as you describe, in general you want to look at the battery, the power adaptor (charger), or the left I/O Board. If one or more of these are malfunctioning, you can get charging problems. If your computer is working while plugged into the power adaptor without other issues, I would not expect there to be a problem with the logic board. Sometimes if someone does not know what is wrong, they will diagnose the logic board. But I would be very skeptical of this diagnosis until other possibilities are eliminated.
The first thing to do is to reset the SMC:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1411?viewlocale=en_US
The next thing to check is to see if your battery might be covered by the following article. If it is, you should be able to get a free replacement from Apple. The article will also help you to recognize the characteristics of a malfunctioning battery.
http://www.apple.com/support/macbook_macbookpro/batteryupdate/
Since you can apparently run your Mac from the Power Adaptor alone, it would argue that the adaptor and the left I/O Board are both working to some extent.
You might check your battery characteristics in the System Profiler and compare them to what the OP posted. If you have under 300 cycles and battery health of "fair" or worse, then your problem could well just be the battery. If so, it would be a far less expensive fix than a new logic board, even if you have to buy a new one.
Do you happen to have any friends with the same MBP? If so, see if you can try their power adaptor and then their battery. Swapping out your battery and power adaptor with ones that are known to be good will go a long ways towards isolating the problem. If your problem persists with a known good battery and a known good power adaptor, then you may be looking at a new left I/O Board, which is much less expensive than a logic board.
Good luck!

Please Help Me? left IO Board Replaced

Hello,
I had a problem with my MB Pro I brought last November, it was the classic green Mag Safe light going off fault. And also my battery would charge to 100% fine, then if I rebooted, switched off then on, or hibernated and woke up the laptop, the charge level would drop to 99% whilst sill connected to the mains and the Mag Safe light remained green, this was still the case after re-calibrating.
I took the computer into my nearest Apple store 60 miles away, the Genius bar tech looked at it and booked it in. They replaced the left I/O board. I went to pick it up and it looked Ok so I left with it.
BUT, when I got home I looked more closely and now the left hand sockets are out of alignment with the holes on the case, I can still use them but I'm not happy as it was perfectly fine before and looks like a 10 second repair job on my £1500+ laptop. And to top it off I noticed tonight the battery is still dropping to 99% after waking the laptop from hibernation.
So I am not happy. I am also not prepared to make yet another 120 mile round trip. So should I call Apple tech support or Customer Services to get this resolved?

Hey thanks, you're the only person on here who said the drop in battery charge was normal!!! But I shall call Apple Care, like I said I can use the ports still but it does make you think what else did they forget to check! And they were perfectly in alignment before so has everything been put back properly for the sockets to not line up?
Anyway I don't mind being without the laptop so long as it gets fixed properly. I regard my Mac as well built so expect it to be repaired to the same standard. I'll give Applecare a call. Cheers.

How to get the words in an opened but unsaved Voice board file?

I'm using the software named ViaVoice from IBM, which can change the voice from the computer's microphone to text, and display the words on the Voice board file that the software provides.(See attachment)
Each time the user speaks two words to microphone, the Voice board displays these words on it(but doesn't save the words in the file automatically). I want to get the words into LabVIEW after the user finished speaking everytime.
For example, in my application, I want to control a car by user's voice, once the user speaks "to Left", the voice board displays " to Left" on it, LabVIEW reads the voice board file every 2 seconds, once LabVIEW finds the number of words changed, it reads the last two words and does the corresponding task.
The problem is that how can I get the words into LabVIEW from the Voice board? I can pre-run the ViaVoice, pre-open the Voice board, and pre-save the Voice board as a .doc file or a .txt file, But the ViaVoice can’t save the doc/txt file antomatically as the speaker adds new words on. What should I do?

the attachment

17" MBP Left side usb ports and audio stopped working

Hello All,
I have a situation here with my MBP. A couple months ago it stopped detecting my airport card (not installed), I replaced it with another one which still showed as not having a card installed. So, I have just been using a usb wifi adapter which has been working fine, but recently the 2 usb ports on the left side have stopped working as well as I lost any sound. I've tried with or without headphones, still no sound it just shows a greyed out speaker and a circle with a line through it when I try to adjust volume. My initial thought was that the left I/O board was bad, but the dc-in board continues to work which, I believe, is part of the left I/O board. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Is the machine at least 4 years old? If it is symptoms you are getting is a sign the PRAM battery is about to go. Get it replaced. If not, try zapping the PRAM.

Magsafe light flashes orange/green

I've just bought a used MBP 2.2 MHZ which operates fine except for switching back and forth between charging modes when the battery is around 85% full. The magsafe light stays orange a few seconds, then shows green for a second, then back to orange; the charging indicator on the screen switches at the same time. I swapped to a known working magsafe charger - same result. Operating on battery power is also a bit strange, with the available percentage of battery jerking around. Looking around, I see some 2007 and 2008 threads about this issue, but no final resolution at that time. Is there now a "bottom line" to this problem? Thanks!

No, it's not a battery calibration issue - but it could be a bad battery. The flashing MagSafe is a hardware issue. Since the SMC is the controller for power systems, resetting it is about all you can do for 'software' type of fix. If that doesn't correct it, the problem is either with the adapter itself (which you apparently ruled out), with the battery, or with an internal component (more likely the left I/O board, but possibly also the logic board itself).
The fact that your available percentage jumps around points to a deeper problem (time remaining can jump around depending on system load, but % charge should go in only one direction when running on battery).
Given your symptoms, I'd be inclined to try a replacement battery first, before looking inside the case for a problem.
If there's an Apple Store near you, make a Genius Bar appointment and let them have a look - they will be able to test the battery as well.
If you like, post your Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count (from Apple menu > About this Mac . More Info > Power) for a preliminary diagnosis...

What makes the Magsafe charging light remain dim (VERY PALE GREEN)?

It is mentioned in threads going back to 2006 so the Magsafe charge indicator clearly has a *PALE GREEN* state -- in addition to amber, (bright) green, and off. Does anybody know what that *PALE GREEN* is supposed to indicate?
I can't get to an Apple Store so I need to MacGyver a short-term solution for this pale green light that comes with the following symptoms:
The 2 month-old battery in my 2 year-old MBP stopped charging.
The laptop runs off the battery as normal wen unplugged.
When Magsafe is connected it runs off the adapter, but:
-- battery life doesn't increase;
-- the menu icon says "Calculating" (hour after hour);
-- none of the 5 charging lights on the battery come on;
-- the charging light on Magsafe remains a very dim green ... so pale, in fact, that I thought it was OFF until nightfall.
I have followed all the advice found in the forum so far:
-- reset the SMC and PRAM;
-- cleaned the magsafe port and plug;
-- tested the pin springs;
-- unplugged the magsafe from the wall socket for 60 seconds;
-- removed/reseated the battery;
-- tested the socket with another appliance
How can I get the (bright) lights back?

Does anybody know what that PALE GREEN is supposed to indicate?
It indicates a hardware problem of some sort. Most likely a bad power adapter. Less likely, but still possible, a bad left I/O board, and even less likely, but remotely possible, a bad logic board.
Unfortunately, there's no "MacGyver-ish short-term solution", unless you can somehow build yourself a new AC adapter with paperclips and chewing gum. Barring that, you'll need to call AppleCare if you can't get to an Apple Store.
Wish I had better news, but you did a great job of trying all the relevant troubleshooting steps.
Hope this helps...

Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004

(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]

Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true.

Where do I find the read out of cycles on my battery & it's battery life?

Battery won't charge, MBP won't run on AC, MagSafe light out or flickering, no green or orange or amber light - those were the descriptions of my problem.
First of all I want to shout out a huge THANKS to people who contribute to this discussion board. My computers just aged out of their APP and I was dreading the thought and expense of putting my MBP into a repair shop. It took me a bit of reading and trying out suggestions but I was able to track down the root of my problem by using the search function before posting. That was a bit tricky since I didn't find anyone who posted or phrased the problem the way I was experiencing it, but through the process of elimination I was able to rule out a bad Left I/O board (yippee) and that it was merely a dead battery.
I was monitoring the draining of my battery as I used it with the power cord. It was getting critically low. I was pointed to the instructions to close and save all open applications then put the computer through sleep, restart and shut down. I also took out the battery and did the 5 second hold on the power button before starting up. I also had just enough battery power to send the critical document I was working on to my iDisk account so I could finish it on my Mac Pro if all else failed. Some of those are just common sense measures but when I'm in a state of near panic (working on taxes - urgh!) I'm glad someone else took the time to point out the obvious.
S.U. posted this link and it was the clincher:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1713
When I saw the photo of what the MagSafe pegs were supposed to look like I discovered that one was retracted and I could not get it dislodged. I bought a new MagSafe connector and I'm back in business.
I'm sorry I didn't keep track of each person's ID who helped me through the deduction process. I also want to thank the person who pointed me to iFixit.com. I've bookmarked that fine site for future endeavors in home diagnosing and fixing.
What I still need answered is where do I go on my computer to get the read out on how many cycles I've used on charging my battery and the other information that I saw people copy and paste about their battery life? I know my battery is on the downhill side so I'd like to start monitoring it.
I'm also posting my whole problem for the possibility that someone will have a similar way of describing their dilemma and be able to search here for a possible solution.
These discussion boards have saved my bacon many times.

You can see number of charging cycles in System Profiler , under Power.
In regards to your battery/charger issues one thing - try to switch your computer off, take the battery out, and hold power button for 5 (10, just for a sake of it seconds.
Then put battery back in, and try to charge it/power it up. It's amazing how many issues can this solve...
Let us know!

Keyboard and trackpad freeze after being idle for a few minutes

I have a early 2008 MBP and just today the keyboard and trackpad freeze after not using it for a few minutes. I was at work when it happened. I plugged it in and started doing something else and a few minutes later came back and i couldn't move the mouse or do anything with the keyboard, but processes were still running. For example, I have a fan speed app that sits in the toolbar, and it was still showing current fan speed. So I restarted it, and it did it again. So the next time it happened, I closed the lid and opened it up and it fixed it. It's happened several times now after a few minutes of non use and I just close the lid and it fixes it. Also, there was a period when I was using my computer for a couple of hours non stop and it didn't have a problem. Only when I'm not touching the keyboard or trackpad does it do it. since this keeps happening i have verified the disk in disk utility, done a hardware reset with cmd+opt+p+r, ran through system profiler to see if there were any problems with no results, and it still does it. Anyone have any ideas?
It should be noted that not only does the battery not work for more than about 2 minutes, the left I/O board appears to be dying. The power chord takes a considerable amount of wiggling and adjusting before it finds a place where it will actually charge. The audio out and the USB on that side are the same way. So I am aware of that problem. Also, I have had to take out the right side fan multiple times and disassemble and oil the bearing because it's going bad, which requires taking the top plate off, but I haven't had to do that for over 6 months. In my mind if the problem was caused by taking the top plate off, that would fry the entire top plate, which happened once when a technitian at a local company took the computer apart for a waranty repair. All of these problems considered, I don't think they would have anything to do with the fact that the mouse and keyboard suddenly won't work after about 5-10 minutes of sitting idle. I have done nothing different since yesterday that would explain why it does this.
Also, I can't do anything with the install disk because the CD drive is dead. But that's mostly because it was a piece of garbage to begin with.
Any Ideas would be helpful.

After doing some more digging I was watching processes in Activity Monitor to see if I could see what process is failing. I think the problem with with Chrome. It only happened when Chrome was open. And since then I reinstalled it and the problem has so far gone away. So, I think the problems is solved.

Firewire 800 external drive no longer mounting

My firewire 800 external hard drive is no longer mounting on my MBP. It powers up, spins, but has no reaction to being plugged into my computer. I've tried connecting it and the turning it on, and connecting it while it was already turned on. I've tried different cables and different types of adapter cables (fw800 to 400, fw800 to USB, etc.), but there is no communication between my drive and my Mac. Same goes if I connect it to my wife's Macbook, or my iMac at work.
I recently had the logic board and left i/o board replaced on my MBP, I'm not sure if this is relevant since the drive has worked since the replacements and I get the same results on other Macs.
What should I do next?

who makes the drive set up?
OWC for example has a history of bad power supplies that make the drive not accessible (drive spins up but never spins all the way up)
-matt

Macbook Pro power issues; Dim charging light, limited power.

So I'm having some serious concerning issues with my 15" MBP while connected to AC power. Recently my AC adapter gave out so I bought a replacement on ebay. While waiting for it to arrive I used a borrowed a 65W charger to charge between uses, which as I understand should not be an issue especially when only charging. At some point the charge light on the 65W began showing only a very dim green. It still worked fine on the Macbook.
Upon receiving my new adapter and plugging it in, I observed the dim light again and decided to try and see what was going on. The system profiler registered a charger present but not charging, but the battery seemed to charge regardless. When using the computer on AC power, battery life would decrease slowly and it would eventually fall into sleep mode when the battery hit zero. Something that seemed to be accelerating from what I imagine to be the battery on its last legs as it had been giving a "Service battery" warning for a few months before this. Eventually the computer began to shut down and attempt to restart immediately on startup with the battery, and operated on AC only, without the battery, as long as I didn't use any applications that demanded high performance from the CPU.
I have tried resetting the PRAM and SMC with no avail.
Well, I just received a new battery in the mail (not that I expect it to fix the main issue), and I'm hesitant to try to charge it.
Basically, what I'm wondering is should I be worried about damaging the new battery with what seems likely to be a damaged charging circuit?
Also, from what I gather, this problem is usually related to the left I/O board where the magsafe and charging circuit is.
Is there any way to determine where the fault is for sure before I go buying replacement parts? My hope right now is that it is in fact the I/O board and not the logic board because of the cost of a new logic board and the fact that I could easily replace the I/O myself.
Any insight at all is greatly appreciated.
Message was edited by: Eiichi133
Message was edited by: Eiichi133

Here's a link for troubleshooting the power adaptor:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1713
Also check for any debris in the power port which may be keeping the adaptor from making good contact.
It's always possible the power adaptor from EBay is faulty. You need to try a known good on, like a working one that a friend has or one at the Apple Store.
Is the new battery a genuine Apple battery or a third party battery. Third party batteries can be difficult to get working. I have one from OWC that's like that--it takes its time to begin charging instead of starting to charge in a second or two.
The best way to troubleshoot all this is to try a known good battery and a known good power adaptor. Your new ones are still in unknown condition. If you have a friend with the same Mac who has known good battery and power adaptor, you can try those in your Mac--and yours in the other Mac, and narrow down the possibilities.
If the Mac fails to charge even with a known good battery and power adaptor, there's a good chance that the I/O Board is bad. But I don't know of a definitive test that would tell you for sure.
Good luck!

Computer shuts off at 45% Battery

My MacBook Pro shuts off at 45% battery life, I do not get a low level warning before it shuts down. I have replaced this battery with a new one, and it does the same thing. I notice that my led on my charger blinks from amber to green all the while charging. My new battery only lasts from 45 minutes to one hour after a full charge. I have done the SCM resest and the Pram, I have done everything recommended. Still no answers. I have the original 2006 MacBook Pro and had the battery replacement exchange within the first 4 months of owning it. That battery worked fine until a couple weeks ago. I did some updates, and now it seems that it has affected my battery for some reason....This new battery I just installed last week. It's very frustrating to have to haul my ac charger with me everywhere. I do not have any extended warranty. Can anyone else give me something else to try? Below is my battery info.
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Automatic Restart On Power Loss: No
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Wake On LAN: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 20
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Reduce Brightness: Yes
Battery Information:
Battery Installed: Yes
First low level warning: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 3496
Remaining Capacity (mAh): 1350
Amperage (mA): -2646
Voltage (mV): 10696
Cycle Count: 6
AC Charger Information:
Connected: No
Charging: No
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed: No

It strikes me as odd that your charger blinks from amber to green while charging rather than glowing a steady amber. Does it fully charge your battery--i.e. do all the lights in the battery light up, regardless of what it says in the menu bar?
For the battery to charge properly, three things have to work--the battery, the power adaptor, and the left I/O Board.
Your new battery sounds like it may be defective. Take a look at this article:
http://www.apple.com/support/macbook_macbookpro/batteryupdate/
After 6 cycles, your Remaining Capacity in should be very close to your Full Charge Capacity of 3496 mAh, rather than 1350 mAh.
It's also possible there could be a problem with your power adaptor or the left I/O Board. Usually the way to narrow it down is to try a known good power adaptor and a known good battery. If the problem remains, the left I/O Board is likely the problem.
It may be worth taking a careful look at both the port and the end of the MagSafe connector, and check to see that none of the pins has become pushed in or something like that. It may also be that the blinking green/amber indicates a faulty connection of some sort.
Good luck!

****LEFT I/O BOARD****

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