Left my macbook air to dry over night then turned it on, should i keep waiting for it to dry?
I accidentally left the cap of my water bottle open then threw it on my bed, the next minute a small puddle had surrounded my macbook air, so i took it immediately and shut it down. I waited for it to dry over night so then this morning i decided to try to turn it on but it wouldnt turn on at all! just should i keep waiting for it to dry then turn it on or is there no chance at all!
Also i have not yet told my parents because they would kill me as they got me this macbook as a well-done-on-your-grades reward!
I understand and sympathize with you.
But from a technical point of view, liquid damage is progressive.
If I had other helpful tips, I would have shared those with you.
Best.
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If it's not registered with Track My Mac you can still do that - when/if it's turned on it will then show up.
Lost/stolen Apple products:
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT2526
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http://www.apple.com/icloud/features/find-my-iphone.html
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Hi pbworth,
When troubleshooting issues with iPod classic, it may be helpful to place the iPod into Disk Mode. For information on how to do so:
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http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1363
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lower your font size unless you have difficulty
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Backing up other Ethernet doesn't prevent access via Wi-Fi.
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KEEPING MacBook Air ON CHARGE ALL NIGHT LONG WILL CAUSE ANY HARM?
Hi!
If I keep my MacBook Air 13 inch on charge at night will it cause any harm to my battery?
I use my MacBook Air on battery during day and evening and prefer to charge it when I am in bed.
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About Batteries in Modern Apple Laptops
Apple - Batteries - Notebooks
Extending the Life of Your Laptop Battery
Apple - Batteries
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2011 17'' MacBook Pro uses battery over night when shut down?
I use the MacBook Pro during the day connected to power source all day. Shut it down at the end of the day (battery is 100% charged) and leave it in the bag over night. The next day I get to work and the battery is now 95% full and it starts charging the battery for good 1 hour before it's fully charged.
So somehow the battery lost charge over night with the computer fully shut down (it's not sleeping, it's shut down).
This can't be normal right?I use the MacBook Pro during the day connected to power source all day. Shut it down at the end of the day (battery is 100% charged) and leave it in the bag over night. The next day I get to work and the battery is now 95% full and it starts charging the battery for good 1 hour before it's fully charged.
So somehow the battery lost charge over night with the computer fully shut down (it's not sleeping, it's shut down).
This can't be normal right? -
ITunes movies with no storage left on Macbook air
Where can I put my Itunes movies if i have no storage on my mac?
Itunes movies are taking up to much space, so can I move them somewhere? Or if i delete them, and get a Mac Desktop, will they be able to be redownloaded?
I need the space for other things,but do NOT want to have to repay for the movies I have bought.auxi.trejos wrote:
Where can I put my Itunes movies
clear cut case
You need to change the premise of your SSD use.
see here:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.
Parking it
75% of the data that's stored on someone’s notebook from countless studies has not been accessed for more than one year. Keeping this ‘dusty’ data on your notebook SSD is bad due to:
1. Internal SSD/HD bloat.
2. Encourages the hazardous and lazy practice of pivoting important data on your SSD, which can fail, be stolen, lost, destroyed, and which would result in serious data loss.
3. Such data needs to be parked into passive external HD archives.
On any SSD drive, unless you are using the data at least every month or so, or more accurately on a regular basis every couple of weeks, it is extremely unlikely that data needs to be or should be on your internal SSD as static data and wasting space when it should be on an external hard drive instead.
The best use of large media files on external portable slim hard drives is to load the media when needed from your external HD to your Macbook, consume it, then delete it from your internal SSD, leaving it on your external for use again later at some point. -
My MacBook Air is running out of storage. Will an external hard drive work for me?
Good afternoon, Apple support forums! I recently made a BootCamp partition, and now my MacBook Air is running out of storage (about 13 GB left), and I realize that I cannot expand the storage on my Macbook Air without some DIY technical work. I looked into alternatives and came onto external hard drives (I'm looking at the LaCie Porsche Design P'9223 USB 3.0 Mobile Hard Drive - 2 TB, but this question is for external hard drives in general). I was wondering, just in case, if I could use it not for backup (as I already have an Apple AirPort Time Capsule) but as added on storage for my Mac. Also, would I have to keep the external hard drive plugged into my Mac 24/7 to have access to the files stored on it? Thanks in advance for any help!!
1. Yes, you can.
2. You only need to have it plugged in when you're accessing data on it.
(119316) -
To Whom It May Concern,
I have a MacBook Air, Ipad 2 everything was fine. Then I upgraded it to OS X Yosemite , everything when downhill, can not even use FaceTime . i have tried everything. Can somebody help me out on this please. Thank you.Try these in order testing your system after each to see if it's back to normal:
1. a. Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
b. Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
2. Restart the computer in Safe Mode, then restart again, normally. If this doesn't help, then:
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the Utilities menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
3. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
4. Reinstall Yosemite: Reboot from the Recovery HD. Select Reinstall OS X from the Utilities menu, and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
because it is three times faster than wireless.
5. Reinstall Yosemite from Scratch:
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
How to Clean Install OS X Yosemite
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
because it is three times faster than wireless. -
I spilled water in my MacBook Air. Not on my keyboard just over it. I dried it as much as I could and at first it wouldn't turn on. Then when I plugged it to charge it it did turn on but then it shut off. The light is green on the cable and instead of turning on it beeps three times then it pauses for a bit and it beeps three times again. What does this mean and what should I do?
1150900 wrote:
What does this mean and what should I do?
It means you pulled electrical power thru a WET computer system and caused compounded damage to what was already damaged.
The obvious has occurred in mixing water and electricity
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