Lightroom 2.1 and PSEL 6 and 7

I have bought PhotoS El 6 and 7 on my computer. How do I change the edit in
Photoshop El 6 to see 7 instead of 6.
Thanks, LZ.

You have to use the 32bit version of IE to make it work. There is no Flash yet for 64bit browsers. <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected].. > I am able to produce flash web gallery's... They all play in an XP > environment, however none work in vista 64 bit. The detect code in the > index.htm... always tells me to download flash, yet it is installed. > I am not quite sure why the code in the generated index.html isnt > detecting flash on vista. What needs to be done to fix it? > > Thanks

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Adobe Photoshop Lightroom has encountered a problem and needs to close. (ver 1.4.1)

I completed a search for this problem here and other forums, and found very useful information, however, I still need help. My laptop is an HP Pavillion dv1000, Intel Centrino, Windows XP, 1.24G of RAM; Camera is a Canon 5D, shooting JPEG only.
After a couple of weeks enjoying a vacation in the Caribbean, it was time to load all the new pics in the computer. I removed the card from my camera and using windows explorer, downloaded all pics in MyPictures folder. I created a new folder for this trip, and while I was there, I decided to reorganize several folders from previous trips. I renamed and moved folders around, deleted pictures, etc. (I believe that all the changes that I made created my problem.)
Once I finished all the changes with my folders, I launched Lightroom (ver 1.4.1) with the idea of synchronizing the folders and start working on my new pictures. After apx 8 seconds, I got the message: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom has encountered a problem and needs to close. We are sorry for the inconvenience.
After a google search, I found a lot of potential answers to my problem, including this one, which I tried:
"It might also be worth trying a temporary test catalog, just to see whether it's specific to that catalog. To do so, go to File menu > New Catalog and create a new catalog somewhere easy - Desktop perhaps - and just try importing a few photos into that test catalog and see if you can get it to freeze. I'm wondering if the catalog's been damaged slightly by that initial unexpected close, and if so, we'll see if we can get that sorted out for you."
I did exactly that (created a test catalog) and I don't get the error. I am not clear on what does that mean. Could you help me understand it? What do I need to do to use my old catalog? Is it damaged? How can I fix it? Did I loose all the work that I did in my previous pictures?
If I go back to my original catalog, I still get the error.
Thank you in advanced for your assistance.
Tony

Tony,
Here's something you might try:
Create a new, empty catalogue and try File->Import from catalog... and specify your broken one as input. With luck the damage will be left behind.
If that doesn't work, try deleting or renaming your preferences file. Look here for its location.
And if that doesn't work, try deleting or renaming your presets folder. See that same website for details.
Let us know how you make out.
Hal

I am using both PSE 13 and Lightroom 5. When I use Lightroom as an external editor and save the photo, it shows up in PSE13 as an edited file but does not look any different. Why doesn't it appear edited?

I am using both PSE 13 and Lightroom 5. When I use Lightroom as an external editor and save the photo, it shows up in PSE13 as an edited file but does not look any different. Why doesn't it appear edited?

People who have Photoshop, but don't have Lightroom, need ACR so that they can use Raw files. Without ACR they could do nothing with those (they may also like having ACR so that they can work on other kinds of image using the same kinds of adjustments and techniques, as are used with Raw files).
People who have Lightroom, can get access to Raw files regardless whether ACR is present or not. They can use Lightroom on other kinds of image also, using the same methods. LR can pass images directly into Photoshop without passing via ACR (or else does so transparently, which amounts to substantially the same thing).
ACR does not, strictly speaking, even need to be installed for this external editing to happen. In fact, not even PS needs to be - since a different image editor can be used instead, while still retaining the Adobe Raw conversion etc.
Lightroom "subcontracts out" specialised external tasks, in this workflow, but is still your "main contractor": the image is otherwise located, viewed, managed, adjusted/presented and output entirely using LR.
So IMO we can divide image processing into:
operations that involve pixels and layers and layer masks and adjustment layers etc (of the kind done inside Photoshop)
operations that involve parametric edits (of the kind done in ACR where you are not using a Lightroom based workflow; otherwise, done inside Lightroom)
When PS is called in, that's because those tasks are impossible or unsuitable to do in Lightroom. But those tasks can't be done in ACR either - by definition, since LR and ACR have exactly the same image processing "feature set".
Lightroom is irrelevant to the Bridge + ACR + PS workflow. This workflow requires both your PS and your ACR to be current enough, to support your Raw format etc.
ACR and Bridge are irrelevant to the LR + (image editor) workflow. It is in this case, only LR which needs to be current enough to support your Raw format etc.
RP

Lightroom 5 will not open and gives me a message saying it encountered an error reading from its preview cache. [was: Lightroom 5 question]

@Lightroom 5 will not open and gives me a message saying it encountered an error reading from its preview cache.

This is the Photoshop forum however.
Close Lightroom and go to your Lightroom catalog folder.
The default location is usually in Pictures.
Delete the file in the catalog folder which ends Previews.lrdata
Do not touch the catalog itself which ends.lrcat
Then try re-launching Lightroom.

Technical question: Is it possible to work on the same Lightroom catalog across two computers and have the catalog sync? If so, how??

Technical question:
Is it possible to work on the same Lightroom catalog across two computers and have the catalog sync? If so, how??
Here's a little more information on what I am trying to do.
I have a desktop computer with 4tb worth of pictures that has Lightroom and Photoshop on it. I also have a laptop with Photoshop and Lightroom. I would like to be able to edit those same pictures with their current edits that are currently on my desktop on my laptop. If this can be done, I'm sure I need to be on the same wifi network for my laptop to be able to access my desktop's photo library. I am technically savvy enough to map a network drive, but how do I get my two Lightroom catalogs to sync when I make a change on one of my computers? Would i be working only on one catalog? Or two separate catalogs that would need to be manually synced to the other computer? Would it be beneficial to put my lightroom catalog on something like dropbox?
I'd appreciate any information or tutorials if someone knows how to do this.

I do this by having my LR catalog and photos on an external drive that I swap between the two computers. I am on Windows and have the same drive letter assigned to the drive on both computers.
Because the photos are on a portable drive I back up the portable drive to another hard-drive every night or after important work, because portable drives are susceptible to damage or loss.

"Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4.pkg" is damaged and can't be opened. You should eject the disk image.

After 3 different downloads (2 in Safari, 1 in Firefox) I still get this message when I try to open Lightroom package: “Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4.pkg” is damaged and can’t be opened. You should eject the disk image. I have a feeling it has to do with 3rd-party software on my Mac OSX 10.8.2 - how do I get around that?

If you have already tried an alternate web browser then your next step would be to try an alternate Internet connection. Perhaps try a wired connection if you are using wireless for example.

Lightroom has lost my photos and fouled up Bridge. Help!!

(1) Today when I started up Lightroom I went to Library and discovered that none of my folders are listed. So I went under 'Import', and they are all there, but all of the folders are empty. I have not moved any folders, photos in over a year. How do I get my folders back?
(2) Lightroom has fouled up Bridge. Now when I use Bridge, all of the photos are missing from their folders, and what I see is a Lightoom Icon for an .lrcat file. If I double click on that, the photos open and are displayed, but in LIGHTROOM!
So it's a double whammy. I can't use Bridge anymore to open my photos in Photoshop, and I can't use Lightroom anymore because it can't find any of my photos, but I can use Bridge to open Lightroom and display my files. What is going on?

I think you gave me the clue ssprengel. Most of the files dated 2014 were giving me the problem. A few were not. All of the folders with other names were fine. When I tried to open one of the .lrcat files by double clicking on it, the file was huge, and no thumbnails were showing until I clicked on All Photos and they appeared, a huge jumble, some from over a year ago. Each one seems to be a new catalog. So I checked my settings, and Lightroom WAS NOT set to open the previous catalog. I don't know how that setting got changed. Anyway, all seems normal now, and in Bridge too. Just to be on the safe side, I moved all of those problematic 2014 files to another hard disk just in case.
So, all seems good now. Even though I've been using Lightroom for years now, I figure I had better go back and check out those videos that others recommended. That was good advice too, so thank you to all.

After using DNG converter, Lightroom still won't recognize and import my photos...

I just started shooting with a Sony A6000 and couldn't import the photos due to compatibility issues with my current version of lightroom (4.4). After reading about it on the forums I found that I had to either download LR5 or use the DNG converter then import into LR. I opted for the free problem fix and downloaded DNG Converter v8.4 (compatible with Sony A6000). Now, after converting my freshly shot photos to DNGs, I've tried to import them into Lightroom through both the Copy and Move functions (because I like the file organization I've established through LR) but each time I end up with a dialogue box saying "Could not move a file to the requested location." When in the import window, LR shows previews of the images clearly. When converting to DNGs, I've ensured the photos are compatible with Camera RAW v7.1 and later (my LR has v7.4) and I've tried both embedding Fast Load Data and not... Also, I'm using a MacBook Pro OS X 10.9 if that makes any difference. Am I missing something? I don't see what the problem is... All I want to do is organize and edit my new photos from my new camera on LR without having to pay an additional $80 for the new LR just because I have a new camera...

This could be a permissions issue, especially if you are using a Mac computer. Make sure you have write permission for the folder you are trying to import into.

I have imported a color picture and trying to use the adjustment brush to turn the background black and white and it isn't working. I have Lightroom 5. Any suggestions?

Hello - I have Lightroom 5. I have imported a color photo. I am trying to use the Adjustment Brush to change the background to Black and White and leave a portion of the photo in color. When I begin painting the photo with the Saturation at -100 I don't see any changes to the photo. I push the "O" key and still nothing. I have tried to reset the photo, restarted Lightroom and still nothing. Please help.

Set Flow and Density of the brush to 100
Reduce it where you want the effect to blend.
Bruce

Lightroom v. 3.6 and Sony A99 RAW does not match

I recently bought the newest Sony A99 camera, but it seems L.v. 3.6 does not manage this (aparently new) type of RAW-pictures.
Do I have to buy the L.v.4 or can I use v. 3.6 with changing some settings?
Thank you

Hello mJim,
It works. Thank you for your help.
Eugene
2013/3/30 jim01403 <[email protected]>
Re: Lightroom v. 3.6 and Sony A99 RAW does not match created by
jim01403 <http://forums.adobe.com/people/jim01403> in *Photoshop Lightroom
- View the full discussion<http://forums.adobe.com/message/5192043#5192043

I have PS 4,5,and 6 installed on my Macbook Pro as well as Lightroom 4 and 5. Can I remove PS 4 and 5 and LR 4? PS 4 is the total install and PS 5 and 6 are upgrades. LR 4 is the full package with LR an upgrade.

I have PS 4,5,and 6 installed on my Macbook Pro as well as Lightroom 4 and 5. Can I remove PS 4 and 5 and LR 4? PS 4 is the total install and PS 5 and 6 are upgrades. LR 4 is the full package with LR an upgrade.
I need space!

First let me disabuse of a misconception: All Adobe upgrades are FULL installers. Whether you buy them as upgrades or new versions does not make an iota of difference. The upgrade installers do not need to find a prior version installed, they just prompt you for the old serial number as well as the old one, and they do not rely on the old version in the least.
Second, the time to uninstall an older version is BEFORE upgrading to a newer one. Otherwise, the uninstaller from the older versions will mess up with your new install. There are a gazillion files that are named the same and in the same locations as the new one.
Your best bet now is to uninstall ALL the Photoshop versions you have installed, including the newest one, one by one, then run the Adobe CS Cleaner Tool, then run Repair Permissions from Apple's Desk Utility, and finally re-install the latest version.
The other alternative, if your boot HD is large enough (very doubtful in case of a laptop like a Mac Book), is to leave all versions on it.
Your choice.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

I bought a cd with Lightroom 5. After installation and registration I am not able to use 'help' function and I cannot update the software. I anyone able to give me a hint how to handle it? Thank you ind advance Karl

I bought a cd with Lightroom 5. After installation and registration I am not able to use 'help' function and I cannot update the software. Is anyone able to give me a hint how to handle it?
Thank you in advance
arl

Hi Keith, sorry for my late reply.
Surely I am able to connect to the help function when Icontact the website
of AdobeLR5.The problem is as follows,
When I open LR5 on my computer and work with it and try to open the help
function in the software, I don't get it.
When I bought the CD I was naiv enough to believe that I get an independent
working software. I learned in the meantime, that the seller does not allow
to work with, without being connected to them.
I don't believe that I am paranoid, but I like to buy something and use it
without to inform the supplier that I do it. Otherwise I could have bought
the license fpr LR5 via internet.
Best regards
Karl
2015-01-02 13:42 GMT+01:00 kglad <[email protected]>:
I bought a cd with Lightroom 5. After installation and registration I
am not able to use 'help' function and I cannot update the software. I
anyone able to give me a hint how to handle it? Thank you ind advance Karl
kglad <https://forums.adobe.com/people/kglad?et=watches.email.outcome>
marked Keith_Reeder
<https://forums.adobe.com/people/Keith_Reeder?et=watches.email.outcome>'s
reply on I bought a cd with Lightroom 5. After installation and
registration I am not able to use 'help' function and I cannot update the
software. I anyone able to give me a hint how to handle it? Thank you ind
advance Karl
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I have downloaded lightroom after a free trial and i cant get it to run. i have regitered the product?

i hav edownloaded lightroom after a free trial and cant grt it to work?

open lightroom and you should see a message about your trial expiring and giving you the option to purchase. click that option and you should be given the option to enter your serial number.
if not, uninstall your lightroom trial (using the adobe uninstaller). then download and install lr 5.7,
Downloads available:
Suites and Programs: CC 2014 | CC | CS6 | CS5.5 | CS5 | CS4 | CS3
Acrobat: XI, X | 9,8 | 9 standard
Premiere Elements: 13 | 12 | 11, 10 | 9, 8, 7 win | 8 mac | 7 mac
Photoshop Elements: 13 |12 | 11, 10 | 9,8,7 win | 8 mac | 7 mac
Lightroom: 5.7| 5 | 4 | 3
Captivate: 8 | 7 | 6 | 5
Contribute: CS5 | CS4, CS3
Download and installation help for Adobe links
Download and installation help for Prodesigntools links are listed on most linked pages. They are critical; especially steps 1, 2 and 3. If you click a link that does not have those steps listed, open a second window using the Lightroom 3 link to see those 'Important Instructions'.

Question. CC for Lightroom and Photoshop and, in say 5 years or so, become inactive.

What access would I have to my photos if I sign up for CC for Lightroom and Photoshop and then become only an occasional user. Will I still be able to find my photos using Lightroom? Will I be able to search for photos using keywords? Will I be able to see metadata?
Thanks.
Fritz Schafer

Dave Merchant wrote:
If you stop subscribing, the software stops working.
This aspect is indeed going to be a rude awakening for many users some day.

I DELETED SOME OF LIGHTROOM MODULES, ALL BUT DEVELOP AND LIBRARY

Several versions ago, possibly 3.6, I deleted several of the lightroom modules, all but LIBRARY and DEVELOP.
Now I need them all. I have installed 4.4 but the modules have not returned to the top of the LR window.
I cannot remember where I might have stored them on my HD or what their names are, and believe I have reinstalled my system since then anyway.
Is there anyway I can change my preferences, or something, and then reinstall LR so as to get the entire list of modules, such as SLIDESHOW,ETC.
Of course I have my catalog backed up but perhaps this can be done simply.
At the time I had a purpose but now I want the capabilities of the entire program.
thanks,
Vince
Message was edited by: vinsolo

John,
Thank you so much. I was making too big a deal of it. I assume, now, after your answer, that the modules were indeed installed with the update and that I needed only to follow your instructions.
I feared all kinds of unhappy problems.
I AM ALMOST HAPPY!
thanks again,
vince

Lightroom 2.1 and PSEL 6 and 7

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