Lightroom 4 Beta to Final Book Transfer

Hi,
Using Lightroom 4 64bits on Win 7.
I created a large book in Lightroom 4 Beta and would like to export it to Lightroom 4 (Final). I understand Lightroom is storing book as "special" collections so I would be happy to re-import a collection in Lightroom 4 - but ideally I would like to import the "layout" only and map photo files to my existing library - with locate pictures or something similar.
Could you someone explain how we could migrate books from beta to final version ?
Many Thanks,
Jean-Philippe

Exporting as Catalog and importing as Catalog works - however I end up with duplicate pictures in my main catalog.
There is an option "Import collection only - no file" but it's greyed out, and it is not possible to "locate" files from my main catalog. So the book is in but I can't change location of files to my main catalog.

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Some links to Lightroom Beta forums broken

i'm participating in the Lightroom beta program. when i
attempt to go to
http://labs.macromedia.com/technologies/lightroom/,
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which is a page titled, "Flex 2 and Flash Player 8.5 Public Alpha
Notification" and is not at all what i'm looking for.
can we get that situation rectified, please? thank
you...

Hi,
In case you may not have noticed yet, the Labs domain issue
was resolved last night. Please respond to this thread if you are
still encountering redirect problems after clearing your local
cache.
http://labs.adobe.com/

Can't Uninstall Lightroom Beta

Lightroom ver 1.0 will not allow me to install it. I get an error stating I must uninstall an earlier version 1st. Problem is when I attempt to uninstall beta 3, it looks for the installation package which has been deleted. The error I get is "a network error occured while attempting to read the file lightroom beta\lightroom_b3_standalone_07-18.msi.
Any help would be appreciated.
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first uninstall everything related to your beta install: http://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/kb/manually-remove-lightroom.html#main_Remove_Lightroom_o n_Windows_Vista__Windows_7

How to reverse F110 Posting for Payment Method Book Transfer.

Hi Gurus
I have done one payment run in F110 today. Everything is ok, except that since in my payment method the Bank details was unchecked in REGUH table the "payee account number" did not get captured.
The impact of this is in our payment file which goes to our bank the payees account details is not there becuse the value is not there in REGUH table.
So we have corrected this issue through config.
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Hi Gurus,
I got one tcode FCHD where you can reverse. If you see the F1 in the payment method it says it can be used for Check/ Bill of Exchange / Bank Transfer. But somehow this doesn't work for Bank transfer. It gives the following error.
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Adobe Lightroom Beta...

I have been running the Adobe Lightroom Beta since the beta released. I am wondering about two things:
1. I heard that BETA testers are getting a greater discount than the public rate of $199.00 how do I go about getting this discount? Does anyone know? Also, I have had a problem with is re-exposing my images. There are no defaults set, however as soon as I import and image and click on it is adjust the levels automatically, making the tones more dull and the lighting much darker?? Any input regarding this, I would love to hear....
~Jessica

You can get it at a discount of $169 by using following promo code - Macworld07
It was suppose to expire on 2/19 but it still works.
John

How do I tether my Nikon D600 to Lightroom on my Mac Book Pro?

how do I tether my Nikon D600 to Lightroom on my Mac Book Pro?

Joanne Read wrote:
how do I tether my Nikon D600 to Lightroom on my Mac Book Pro?
Even though Adobe is dragging their feet offering support ... you are in luck since you are using an OS X product ... you don't have to wait until Adobe thinks it's time to offer you a solution ... you can tether with your D600 right now and it won't cost you a one cent ... because Apple added tethering support back in October 2012 ...
It's slightly convoluted though.
On you Macbook Pro there is an app installed by default called Image Capture. Start Image Capture, plug your camera into the laptop with the USB cord. Thurn on the camera. Then from the Menu go to: File>Take Picture ... this will open a dialog box that you can designate a folder to save your images. Then point Lightroom to that folder in "watched folder" mode and you are in business ... takes a touch longer to see your results in Lightroom than if you were tethering directly ... but you can get the job done.
Keep in mind you can't trigger the camera or adjust settings from within Lightroom ... but you can see you results and begin work on your images very quickly ...

What ipad model is better for downloading books?

Hello, i want to buy an Ipad, but not 100% sure what ipad model is better for downloading books. i travel a lot and often find myself in the places where wi-fi is not reliable. Any tips are most welcome!

iPad Mini. Both iPads are fine for books, but the Mini is even more portable, and the page size is ideal of reading books. I've had both; the Mini is better, for me. If you have the chance, visit your local Apple Store and try out the units on display. Then, you can determine which is right for you.
If you read lots of emagazines, give the iPad Air a chance. The Air has a larger screen, and that means things will be less cramped. Apps like Flipboard perform well on both devices, but the Air is roomier and easier to navigate.

8830 Address Book Transfer

The Address Book Transfer option suddently stopped working....When looking at the Address Book Transfer option it is disabled and there is a small lock next to the word disabled. I have no idea why this happened nor can I find anything that tells how to unlock it and switch it to enabled. Everything was working fine until noon today. I am a new BB user and have no idea what I did. Any one had this problem or can help.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

The small red lock icon normally means it is an IT Policy restricting what ever it is you are trying to do.
Is this blackberry connected to your companys Blackberry Enterprise Server? This is where the IT Policy comes from.
If your issue is resolved, put a checkmark in the green box that contains the resolution.
OR
If it was just/or also really helpful - Give it a Kudos.. Go on Mate.. Help the rest of the clueless blackberry user world find their answer too..
~Gday from Down Under~

Image Orientation/Rotation Problem in Lightroom 3.2 Final

This is a continuation of my previous post regarding this same problem in 3.2RC. It's still happening in the Final version of Lightroom 3.2.
THE PROBLEM
Image orientation is not working properly in Lightroom 3.2. This affects newly imported images and images that were already in my Lightroom database - and which have been in the database since Version 1.
Here's a screen capture showing the strange displays I'm seeing in Lightroom's grid mode:
Notice the odd angle of the image. When I use the Rotate Photo Left tool, the display looks like this sometimes. After a second or so, it will snap to either a vertical or horizontal orientation by itself but rarely gives me the 90-degree rotation this tool should give. The image may flip 90-degrees or 180-degrees, there's no way to tell.
When I view the image in Loupe view or on my second monitor, the orientation shown in Grid view does not match that displayed in Loupe Vew. For this particular image, Grid view currently shows it as correctly orientated as a horizontal while Loupe view shows it rotated 90-degrees to the right. Shouldn't they match?
BACKGROUND
I never had a problem with image orientation in any preveious version of Lightroom prior to Lightroom 3.2RC and 3.2 Final. So, it seems to be a bug in 3.2. I'm still using the same computer and video card I used with previous versions. My operating system is Windows 7 Home Premium. Both Windows and Lightroom are 64-bit.
HELP!
Is anyone else having this problem? How can I solve it?
Alan
PhtooCitizen.com

The size of the catalogue is almost certainly not at play here.
FWIW, I recall seeing something like this once a long time ago on a Mac, possibly with Lr 3 beta, or Lr 2.x. It went away with a restart. It almost looks like a threading issue, where a thread is suspended or preempted and then is lost or disconnected from the main UI thread.
I recall you can just rotate the image again and it will right itself.
Adobe fist-line support seem to want to use the number of images in the catalogue as some sort of catch-all. The problem with this is that most of us can demonstrate that there is little correspondence with the number of image IDs in the database and many reported UI artefacts.
I'd keep raising this with them, and suggesting that the size of the catalogue is probably not at play here. As a tactic, you can ask what the maximum size of a catalogue should be, and if it is raw images or the number of changes to the images and virtual copies that is the problem, and if this can be verified by second- or third-line support.

Hi.i currently use photoshop lightroom 4 and have uploaded books to blurb with no problems but today every time i try to log in to blurb through lightroom to upload the book a msge appears saying "Could not cotact Blurb web service.please check internet c

Hi I currently use lightroom 4 and have never had an issue uploading photo books to blurb.but now when i try a message appears saying "could not contact blurb web service.please check internet connection" my internet connection is fine.please can somebody help me as i need to get the album done as it is a wedding album and the clients are waiting on it.many thanks,Sean.

Hi,
I got this problem sorted and it actually very easy. For some reason the settings on the windows page i use on my laptop conflicted with the blurb/lightroom upload. All you need to do is set up a new windows user page and set it up as admin. You will need to transfer all the photos from the lightroom on your current user page to the new one which can be annoying but at least you will hopefully get up and running again. I hope this helps,
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Group email and address book transfer

I am a new mac user so clueless about most things: two questions
Is it possible to transfer my compuserve address book to my mac account?
If not, I was trying at least to transfer group emails: in other words, to cut and paste the emails from my group, create a new group account in MAC and paste. But after creating "group" in mac, I could not access the folder or find where how to paste addresses under the group.
Finally, how do I make functions for bold/italics/underline/font appear in my email?
Thanks!
Epalinges

Reinstalling the Mail.app rarely resolves any problems with the application.
All Mail.app account settings are stored in the Mail.app preference file which is not deleted and recreated new when deleting and re-installing Mail so if the SMTP server setting problem is with the preference file, deleting and re-installing Mail will be a complete waste of time and effort on your part which doing so usually is anyway.
Is this email account and SMTP server provided by your ISP used for connecting to the internet or other?
If other, are you also accessing an email account and SMTP server provided by your ISP used for connecting to the internet with Mail and if so, any problems sending messages with this account and SMTP server?
Most ISPs and email account providers have sending limits/restrictions for non-business email accounts. Some have a total recipient limit per message along with a total number of recipients limit for all messages sent in a 24 hour period. Some only have the latter which can be reached or exceeded with a single message.
And lastly -- when I put a group email name into my Mac Mail,
it changes it from the group to the entire list of anyone that is
in the group! Not cool! And it has never done this before either...
Go to Mail > Preferences > Composing. What is your setting under Addressing for "When sending to a group, show all member addresses"?

Adobe lightroom 4 on mac book pro 3.1

I have a mac book pro osx10.6.8, 2.6 ghz intel core 2 duo processor, 4 gb memeory, 3.1 17 inch. Can i install Adobe lightroom 4 without any problems, i want the raw interface availability without having do buy a new computer right now and have been thinking of converting over to lightroom from aperture. I have a nikon d7000 and want the raw which Lightroom 4 provides.

A simple Google search:
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5599

I would to know what is the better option, mac book pro with CA on, or use with battery until it`s discharge

I have one doubts if is preferable work with mac book Pro all together with battery and to connect it when discharge or work with the connected to CA cable.
I read in somewhere apple do not recomended work with the CA cable all the time, but in other articles said that its no problem if you realize a complete cilce of discharge an charge one time at month,
thaks for help

Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & never store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”. This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
The good news is that your Macbook has a safety circuit in place to insure the battery doesn’t reach too low before your Macbook will auto power-off. Bad news: if you let your Macbook protection circuitry shut down your notebook at its bottom, and you refrain from charging it for a couple days...the battery will SELF-DRAIN to zero (depending on climate and humidity)…and nothing is worse on a Lithium battery being low-discharged than self-draining down to and sitting at 0
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.

N81 phone book transfer problem

I just bought a new Jensen VM9022 bluetooth head unit and was successfully paired with my Nokia N81. The problem is that the phone book cannot be transfer. I tried a samsung sgh-u700 and the phone book was trasfered.
What is the problem with my N81?

This thread may help???
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Which MBP is better for Final Cut Pro?

Hi Everyone,
I'm looking to replace my 2010 MacBook Pro 13" on a budget. I'd like to get a retina 13" macbook pro, either the refurb 2012 with 8GB ram and the i5, or the refurb 2013 with 4GB ram, i5 and the new Intel Iris graphics card. Which is better for medium to intense final cut pro, photoshop, and dreamweaver work? Does the Intel Iris card make a big difference or should I be getting more RAM?
Thanks

First, check the Model Identifier in your Mac's Apple Menu > 'About this Mac' > 'More info' > 'System Report' > 'Hardware Overview'
Next, check OWC to find out exactly how much RAM your proposed MBPs can take. Apple gives correct specs at time of development. Later, larger RAM is developed that will work with some Mac models.
For video, FCPX will use as many processor cores as are available. It will use all 12 cores of the latest Mac Pro. This makes FXPX run very fast. Most other programs don't use multiple cores at all and a few only use a couple of cores. With more cores comes slower clock speed, which is needed by programs that dont use multiple cores.
Eventually, all high-end programs will use multiple cores, so, if you have the option, get as many cores as you can with your current purchase. This will especially benefit FCPX immediatly, it will help higher-end programs later, and the slower clock speed won't really affect the more run-of-the-mill programs (like word processing) because clock speeds are pretty reasonable these days (for a laugh, read this in fifty years time).
Get the minimum RAM available because you can upgrade later and will probably have to sacrifice the RAM you have. Third party RAM (again, you can check OWC) is cheaper than buying it with your computer pruchase. Make sure it's designed for your Mac.
You can use Activity Monitor to check if FCPX (or any program) is paging. You don't want this. It means it is writing to disk—effectively virtual memory—that should be handled in RAM. This is very slow and inefficient. It only does that when it needs more RAM than is available. That's when you upgrade your RAM (which could be immediatly after you buy).
The single most effective thing you can do to get FCPX to perform better on an existing computer (or any comuter) is to swap your hard drive for an SSD. SSDs read and write so fast compared to even the fastest hard drive that you can do multicam edits in real time without dropping frames. Rendering is a lot faster becuse it writes the render to disk, and so is launching and exporting (or, as Apple insists, 'Sharing'), which also writes to disk. SSDs may seem expensive (they are coming down in price), but the productivity gains are absolutly worth it.

Lightroom 4 Beta to Final Book Transfer

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