Lightroom Auto-adjust

I've had 5 jobs now,practically ruined by lightroom auto adjusting settings I don't want changed.For instance colour balance and auto straightening ( leaving a white crop area ),that do not need straightening.I've spoken to adobe tech support who were useless,and the problem is continuing.I've tried everything I can think of,including resetting,syncing...everything.I've got 3 more big jobs coming up,and I do not want to put them in Lightroom in case it does the same to them.The files are RAW.Any help would be more than appreciated,as this is driving me crazy.Also,resetting does not alter the crops.That has to be manually changed.
Many thanks

Make sure you don't have auto tone turned on in the preferences otherwise, read the FAQ:
http://www.adobeforums.com/webx/.3bc3d55a
If that's your problem, learn about the camera-matching profiles. They come installed with LR 2.2. I wrote about them in
this article.

Similar Messages

Lightroom Auto Adjusting Photos

In the Develop module, when I click on pictures for the first time after import, the color changes after about 3 secs. I have looked everywhere and can't find where to turn that off, and it is really bothering me. I like the way pictures look until it changes, and then I have to try and change the picture back to what I saw for 3 secs. Any information will help. Thanks

It's not auto-adjusting your images. You are seeing the embedded preview - from the out-of-camera JPEG - until LR gets the RAW data and applies its own rendering.
If you don't like it, create a develop preset that has the settings you like and apply that on import.
There are a ton of threads on exactly the same subject. Do a search if you want more information.

How to stop Lightroom from auto-adjusting RAW files

Is there a way to stop Lightroom from automatically "fixing" my RAW files? When I first load them in they look perfect (like they do on the back of my camera), but then LR auto-adjusts them to make them dull and desaturated and not at all contrasty. Is there a way that I can set LR to not do anything to the files and let me decide what I want the original to look like?

I totally understand where II is coming from. I too find it bothersome that in some images, the pre-processed preview is a more pleasing image than the unprocessed RAW. At the same time, it is the unprocessed nature of the RAW image that is the whole attraction and point to shooting RAW. An obvious workaround (if one is willing of course) is to shoot RAW+JPEG so as to either have the JPEG as a "target" reference or final image when suitable. And that is an option I used to employ until I got tired of dealing with the issues of essentially doubling the number of images I was working with.
I do disagree with II's thought that the preview showing up is slowing down any processing of the RAW image. It would seem to me that the whole reason the preview is showing up is that it is a prerendered aspect of the file that pops up while the actual preview rendering is taking place. While I don't claim to have technical knowledge as to how this all works, I would think that LR is simply showing the initial rendering of what the RAW file is telling LR it looks like until LR can actually make it's OWN interpretation. Either way, the process is fast enough that it isn't a huge issue to me on my system. In fact, those images where I see a vast difference between the inital preview image and the LR rendered resolve no slower than the rest.
It is interesting to know that there are applications/utilities out there that will extract that inital preview though. I thionk it would be very cool if LR made use of such a capability more directly as an option.
Anyway, while the frequency of my use of LR so far pales in comparison to that of PS and Bridge, so far I can say that such discrepency between nice looking inital preview and less than so RAW is far less common than it is working with PS and Bridge CS2.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

How do you reset the Work Area Bar to auto adjust?

This is something that's been a thorn in my side for a while. Maybe I'm just being OCD about it... but I've been wondering if there is a way, once you reposition the I / O points of the Work Area Bar (WAB) you can get Pr to go back to auto adjusting it to the end of your clip.
You can double-click it to get it to expand to the full length of the sequence, if you remember to do that... Sometimes I'm in a rush, or I have 10 sequences and I miss the fact that my WAB is not all the way to the end. I select and batch drag them all to Media Encoder and *POW*... I've forgotten to stretch the Out to end on one sequence ... and I have to re-render. A pain, yes, something I should have double checked, but at 2am these things can get missed.
So, can you get the Work Area Bar to auto adjust again?
If yes, it's probably something ridiculously obvious – but I'll take it!
Thanks
Stephen

I would have an issue with auto or a default for a number of reasons.
Not least this one...
I now place dummy clip ( black video) a distance off the end of my sequence to prevent the End of Sequence Marker displaying at the end of my edited material. I dont want that included in an export.
Here is another...
As I get to lock down and I am sending previews to clients...I insert Black Video head and tail of the edit so that the preview does not start jarringly on first frame video. I have I and Os marked so that I can simply export "Program at length (without black head and tail) when I come to master.
and...
Often I have edit versions (TVCs) on the same time line ( sequence) and I need to adjust WAB or I/Os to export them separately.
Automating stuff to eliminate our dumb moments doesnt help much because it just opens the chance of another dumb moment driven by expectation and forgetfulness. .
Mental checklist is the only way IMHO.

How to auto adjust the height of my div tag?

This is my website www.whistleandlisten.com
The white background is a div tag and whenever I add new content within the div tag I want it to auto adjust to extend the white div tag down as the page gets longer. I have tried css and set my height to auto but that makes it disappear. Right now I have to set it to a certain amount of pixels which gets annoying and sometimes I forget to after adding lots of content. PLEASE HELP.

To have an extensible height element, you should not apply the height property as you have done starting at line 9 of songcss.css
#whitediv
position: absolute;
left: 50%;
margin-left: -490px;
top: 0px;
width: 950px;
height: 2900px;
z-index: 1;
background-color: #ffffff;
background-image: none;
background-repeat: repeat;
background-attachment: scroll;
background-position: 0% 0%;
background-clip: border-box;
background-origin: padding-box;
background-size: auto auto;
color: #ffffff;
box-shadow: #ffffff;
overflow-x: visible;
overflow-y: visible;

Auto-adjust on Compaq WF1907 LCD Monitor

Auto-adjust on Compaq WF1907 LCD Monitor
I have a vision problem and need to adjust the brightness on my Compaq WF1907 LCD Monitor to 30%. However, every time I turn the monitor 'ON' it performs an auto-adjustment which resets the brightness to 100%.
How can I lock in the 30% or turn the auto-adjust off ?

Hello,
You can try locking the settings: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00850175&tmp_task=useCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=e...
-Chris
I work for HP.
Support Forums are now on your mobile phone: http://m.hp.com/supportforum

Auto Adjustment in Progress Flashing HP w1907

I have a HP w1907 monitor and i hooked it up to my macbook and it works great just it keeps poping up Auto Adjustment in Progress then goes back to what i was doing.
I have to white plastic, removiable battery macbook OS X 10.7.5 Lion.
if that is needed.
Plz and thank you for help!!!
~Gamer

Hello Diqoter,
You keep getting a message that auto adjustment in progress.
Have you tried to connect the monitor to another computer?
It might be that the auto adjustment button is stuck.
If you still have the disk that came with the monitor you can try to run the disk.
Here is a link to the manual for your monitor.
Do a hard reset of the monitor.
Unplug the power going to the monitor and hold down the power button for 15 sec, this will reset the hardware in the monitor.
Let me know how everything goes.
Have a good day.

HP 23xi Monitor gets fuzzy despite driver and auto adjustment

I have a HP pavilion dv2000 windows Vista with a HP 23xi monitor hookep up throug VGA. I installed the driver from HP's website and the text was no longer blured nor the images stretched. However, every single time I unplug my laptop and replug it back to the monitor the text gets blurry again... No matter what I do, auto adjustment, resolution, etc..
Can you help me fix this?
Thank you.

Please provide the complete model name and/or product number of the HP computer in question. HP/Compaq makes thousands of models of computers that are all different. The above requested information can be found on the bottom of your computer or inside the battery compartment.
The information you have provided, "HP pavilion dv2000", is incomplete and only identifies a series of computer models.
Please unplug the power from the monitor and then hold the power button in for 30 seconds. This should reset the monitor. See if that resolved your issues.
Please click the white KUDOS star to show your appreciation
Frank
{------------ Please click the "White Kudos" Thumbs Up to say THANKS for helping.
Please click the "Accept As Solution" on my post, if my assistance has solved your issue. ------------V
This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I don't work for HP.
HP 15t-j100 (on loan from HP)
HP 13 Split x2 (on loan from HP)
HP Slate8 Pro (on loan from HP)
HP a1632x - Windows 7, 4GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
HP p6130y - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
HP p6320y - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GT 240
HP p7-1026 - Windows 7, 6GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
HP p6787c - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GT 240

While editing photos in Aperture, I'm trying to make an "auto" adjustment to the exposure but the button is grayed out and consequently doesn't perform any function, please help! Thank you, Mike

While editing photos in Aperture, I trying to make an "auto" adjustment to the exposure,
but the "auto" button is grayed out and will not allow any auto function to take place.
Please help!
Thank you,
Mike

Mike, are you working with raw images?
For some raw images auto exposure is not available, have a look at this manual page:
http://documentation.apple.com/en/aperture/usermanual/index.html#chapter=18%26se ction=9%26tasks=true
Note: Automatic exposure adjustment is available for Aperture-supported RAW images only. If you want to adjust the exposure of another file type, such as JPEG or TIFF, see Working with the Exposure Controls. For a list of supported RAW file types, go to the Apple website at http://www.apple.com/aperture/specs.

New iMac brightness level keeps changing (auto adjust NOT checked)

Just got a new 27 inch iMac and keep on having to change the brightness level back to the brightness I prefer.
I do not have auto adjust checked, I put the brightness slider up to the level I like and after a while the brightness dims to what seems like the default level as its always down to the same spot on the slider...what gives? i just want it to stay where I want it...
Help.

I have same problem, of autobrightness being unchecked and my brightness going from full to about 3/4 bright
all by itself. I had that problem, then flickering of my screen also was taking place. I didn't bring my unit into Apple
because this autobrightness thing plus flickering would not happen on command,, and I wouldn't be able to show them properly. Well , finally my left side of the screen dimmed,, and that was the go ahead to bring it in to them
to show the left side of screen. I also told them about the flickering,, and the autobrightness, which I figured played a role into the final left side dimming. They replaced the backlight and the display LCD on warranty.
I have had it for about 5 days. The screen is equally lit (as should be), however, I discovered that my same old
problem of autobrightness, is slipping back to 3/4. So most of you have autobrightness problem in a sort of different way. I set mine to "torch" because my downstairs bedroom is dim (with one overhead light), but sometimes, just plain dark,, so I want to sometimes keep it at torch,, however, it still slips back. You would
almost think that if my surronding was dim or dark, that it would stay on torch if the autobrightness was really working properly. Go figure. I just tried SMC a short while ago,, I had tried, before my repair doing PRAM and the other one (I think VRAM). I also will unhook my second monitor to see if that is having an impact on things.
Do any of you in this post have a second monitor attached,, and have you tried unhooking it to see if the problem
is resolved?

Auto Adjust Brightness late 2010 is gone

Auto adjust Brightness Button is gone?!?
Can you help me getting it back?
See

The auto brightness button is near the top - the one that starts with "Optimal".
In English, that button says "Resolution - best for built-in display".
I see what you mean, though, as resolution and brightness are really different things.
Anyway, glad your problem is solved.

Auto adjust brightness ... can it be reversed?

I cant remember if i had this problem with Snow Leopard. Not sure if this is a Lion issue or my new MBA either.
The auto adjust brightness seems to adjust the screen brightness to low in bright light and high in low light.
I would like it reversed as in the dark, i dont need a bright screen and in the day, i need the screen to be brighter.
Any body noticed this same adjustment on their Lion MBA?
If so, does any one know how to reverse it?
Thanks

SAP has a program to reverse depreciation but it is somewhat complex and not available on OSS. I'm also not sure if it is limited to (or can be ported if it is) to the older depreciation program RABUCH which would limit it to those customers that currently post using RAPOST2000.
But barring access to the program, it's not possible to reverse it. You would have to proceed as Jagdish describes... feed the GL data that is -1 of the data that was posted. I wouldn't do it, personally.
-nathan

Pictures in iDVD slide show keep auto adjusting

Hi,
I'm knew to iDVD. I am a professional photographer and prior to iDVD used another piece of software to create DVD slideshows.
I created my first iDVD slide show, and encountered a weird issue. The only transition I'm using is a dissolve; it seems that at the time the slide show was being rendered, images were somehow being "auto adjusted" for exposure. The images come on the TV, then they automatically adjust for exposure; iDVD attempts to make lighter images dark and darker images lighter. It is annoying. Anyone know how to turn this "auto exposure" adjustment off?
I looked everywhere for help on this issue: I.E. turn off "auto adjust", but to no avail.

Hi,
Thanks for the reply...
Question: How do I turn on or turn off "auto adjust?"
I didn't quit and then restart...
The images are on the higher res side.
but again, where is the "auto adjust" setting located?
Michael

Iweb auto adjust for different computer monitor settings

Nobody has the same display settings on their monitor, so how can I get iweb to auto adjust to different computer monitor settings?

Are you referring to screen size? If so many prefer to have their browser window set to the size they want unlike PCs in which the browsers usually always fill the screen blocking out the desktop.
Why not set your site width to a size that can be utilized by all, desktops, laptops and mobile devices. Apple recommends 980 pixel width for that.
There was a post about this some time ago with, if I recall correctly, some code to do that. I think Cyclosaurus posted it but am not sure.
I know its a personal preference but when I land on a site that forces my browser to fill the screen I leave and don't go back.
OT

Lightroom Auto-adjust

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