Lightroom Slideshow Question regarding DVD copying.

Greetings!
I've just created a new slideshow with music which I've copied to a DVD+R as well as DVD+RW. All seems to go well but the music skips intermittently and I'm not able to figure out what I may being doing that would cause this issue. Photos are shown as they should be.
Using current version of LR 5.4, with MacBook Pro, OXS 10.9.2
Hank Bishop
Message was edited by: HPB42

I'm having the same problem. During the slide fade transmissions, my music skips. It is ok on the mp4, but when I burn to DVD I get the skips during playback. Has anyone helped you with this or did you figure it out?

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Cheers

"Playing Up???" You mean "Acting Up???" Gosh, I wish you Brits would speak ENGLISH!!!
Since your warranty is up, a new DVD drive wouldn't be that hard to replace, if you're competent with electronics. There are many websites with step-by-step instructions. (ifixit.com for one.) Go for it! Go with a better quality one that comes with the iMac. My new Aluminum iMac's DVD drive sounds and rejects perfectly good DVDs as your does. Cheapos???
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PSE 12 crashes when I view slideshow in "Full Screen Preview" or try to make a MWV or DVD copy.

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Slideshow on a DVD questions

Hi...
2 questions about the adding a slideshow to a DVD using iDVD 08. Are you only able to allow one type of transition for the slideshow? I really would like to have an option where it randomly switches between types of transitions. Seeing the same transition for hundreds of photos is boring to me. Also, I chose the page turn transition to test out the slideshow on a DVD and it seems that right before it turns the page the picture goes blurry. Has anyone else noticed this? Please tell me there is a fix for this... and also a way to do multiple transitions on a finished DVD slideshow.
Thanks!!

+right before it turns the page the picture goes blurry+
I have the same issue, and it happens with several different transition types (I tried dissolve, page turn, and cube and they all had the problem...) To me it looks like a glitch in the rendering process as it happens right before every transition starts, and the last picture of each slideshow (which has no subsequent transition) has no blur. Sadly, I have this problem with iDVD 6.0.3 and I was hoping that upgrading to iLife 08 might bring a fix.
I did notice, that the problem is most evident on my HD tv with a Panasonic DMR-EH75V DVD player. On my Macbook the problem is still unacceptably noticable, but not quite as bad. On a G3-powered slot loading iMac, the picture blur is nearly imperceptable. Finally on my old standard TV with a Samsung DVD-V1000 there is no hint of the blur problem.
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How can I copy my slideshow to a dvd?

How can I copy my slideshow on a dvd?

There are many ways to produce slide shows using iPhoto, iMovie or iDVD and some limit the number of photos you can use (iDVD has a 99 chapter (slide) limitation).
If what you want is what I want, namely to be able to use high resolution photos (even 300 dpi tiff files), to pan and zoom individual photos, use a variety of transitions, to add and edit music or commentary, place text exactly where you want it, and to end up with a DVD that looks good on both your Mac and a TV - in other words end up with and end result that does not look like an old fashioned slide show from a projector - you may be interested in how I do it. You don't have to do it my way, but the following may be food for thought!
Firstly you need proper software to assemble the photos, decide on the duration of each, the transitions you want to use, and how to pan and zoom individual photos where required, and add proper titles. For this I use Photo to Movie. You can read about what it can do on their website:
http://www.lqgraphics.com/software/phototomovie.php
(Other users here use the alternative FotoMagico: http://www.boinx.com/fotomagico/homevspro/ which you may prefer - I have no experience with it.)
Neither of these are freeware, but are worth the investment if you are going to do a lot of slide shows. Read about them in detail, then decide which one you feel is best suited to your needs.
Once you have timed and arranged and manipulated the photos to your liking in Photo to Movie, it exports the file to iMovie as a DV stream. You can add music in Photo to Movie, but I prefer doing this in iMovie where it is easier to edit. You can now further edit the slide show in iMovie just as you would a movie, including adding other video clips, then send it to iDVD 7, or Toast, for burning.
You will be pleasantly surprised at how professional the results can be!
To simply create a slide show in iDVD 7 onwards from images in iPhoto or stored in other places on your hard disk or a connected server, look here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1089

Regarding Lightroom Slideshow module: When I click on the preview button I get the following error: An internal error has occurred: ?:0: attempt at index a nil value. This occurs with any group of images I select in my catalog.

Regarding Lightroom Slideshow module: When I click on the preview button I get the following error: An internal error has occurred: ?:0: attempt at index a nil value. This occurs with any group of images I select in my catalog.

Jeannine,
If you follow the advice of the previous poster Julie Kmoch and then gradualy add presets back in one at a time you might be able to find the one that is causing the issue. I may be guessing, but I believe the issue has something to do with either an incompatible Preset setting (eg a older preset in newer version of LR) or a corrupt Preset.
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C:/Users/<YourUserName>/AppData/Roaming/Adobe/Lightroom/Develop Presets
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Hope this helps a bit,
Glenn

I am trying to burn a slideshow onto a dvd that will play on a standard dvd player and tv, but everytime I copy it I cannot play the disc except on my Macbook

I am trying to burn a slideshow onto a dvd that will play on a standard dvd and tv

You can't just copy the slideshow to a DVD as, you've found out, that won't play on a TV. You need to use a program that will render it into DVD format, complete with the proper lead in and trailers. I use Toast to do that, however, there are other programs that can do that too.

Questions regarding customisation/configuration of PS CS4

Hello
I have accumulated a list of questions regarding customising certain things in Photoshop. I don't know if these things are doable and if so, how.
Can I make it so that the list of blending options for a layer is by default collapsed when you first apply any options?
Can I make it possible to move the canvas even though I'm not zoomed in enough to only have parts of it visible on my screen?
Is it possible to enable a canvas rotate shortcut, similar to the way you can Alt+RightClick to quickly change brush size?
Is it possible to lock button positions? Sometimes I accidentally drag them around when I meant to click.
Is it possible to lock panel sizes? For example, if I have the Navigator and the Layers panels vertically in the same group, can I lock the height of the navigator so that I don't have to re-adjust it all the time? Many panels have a minimum height so I guess what I am asking for is if it's possible to set a maximum height as well.
Is it possible to disable Photoshop from automatically appending "copy" at the end of layer/folder names when I duplicate them?
These are things I'd really like to change to my liking as they are problems I run into on a daily basis.
I hope someone can provide some nice solutions

NyanPrime wrote:
<answered above>
Can I make it possible to move the canvas even though I'm not zoomed in enough to only have parts of it visible on my screen?
Is it possible to enable a canvas rotate shortcut, similar to the way you can Alt+RightClick to quickly change brush size?
Is it possible to lock button positions? Sometimes I accidentally drag them around when I meant to click.
Is it possible to lock panel sizes? For example, if I have the Navigator and the Layers panels vertically in the same group, can I lock the height of the navigator so that I don't have to re-adjust it all the time? Many panels have a minimum height so I guess what I am asking for is if it's possible to set a maximum height as well.
Is it possible to disable Photoshop from automatically appending "copy" at the end of layer/folder names when I duplicate them?
These are things I'd really like to change to my liking as they are problems I run into on a daily basis.
I hope someone can provide some nice solutions
2. No. It's a sore spot that got some forum time when Photoshop CS4 was first released, then again with CS5. It's said that the rules change slightly when using full-screen mode, though I personally haven't tried it.
3. Not sure, since I haven't tried it. However, you may want to explore the Edit - Keyboard Shortcuts... menu, if you haven't already.
4. What buttons are you talking about? Those you are creating in your document? If so, choose the layer you want to lock in the LAYERS panel, then look at the little buttons just above the listing of the layers:
5. There are many, many options for positioning and sizing panels. Most start with making a panel visible, then dragging it somewhere by its little tab. One of the important features is that you can save your preferred layout as a named workspace. Choose the Window - Workspace - New Workspace... to create a new named workspace (or to update one you've already created). The name of that menu is a little confusing. Once you have created your workspace, if something gets out of place, choose Window - Workspace - Reset YourNamedWorkspace to bring it back to what was saved.
You'll find that panels like to "stick together", which helps with arranging them outside of the Photoshop main window.
As an example, I use two monitors, and this is my preferred layout:
6. No, it's not possible to affect the layer names Photoshop generates, as far as I know. I have gotten in the habit of immediately naming them per their usage, so that I don't confuse myself (something that's getting easier and easier to do...).
Hope this helps!
-Noel

I have some questions regarding setting up a software RAID 0 on a Mac Pro

I have some questions regarding setting up a software RAID 0 on a Mac pro (early 2009).
These questions might seem stupid to many of you, but, as my last, in fact my one and only, computer before the Mac Pro was a IICX/4/80 running System 7.5, I am a complete novice regarding this particular matter.
A few days ago I installed a WD3000HLFS VelociRaptor 300GB in bay 1, and moved the original 640GB HD to bay 2. I now have 2 bootable internal drives, and currently I am using the VR300 as my startup disk. Instead of cloning from the original drive, I have reinstalled the Mac OS, and all my applications & software onto the VR300. Everything is backed up onto a WD SE II 2TB external drive, using Time Machine. The original 640GB has an eDrive partition, which was created some time ago using TechTool Pro 5.
The system will be used primarily for photo editing, digital imaging, and to produce colour prints up to A2 size. Some of the image files, from scanned imports of film negatives & transparencies, will be 40MB or larger. Next year I hope to buy a high resolution full frame digital SLR, which will also generate large files.
Currently I am using Apple's bundled iPhoto, Aperture 2, Photoshop Elements 8, Silverfast Ai, ColorMunki Photo, EZcolor and other applications/software. I will also be using Photoshop CS5, when it becomes available, and I will probably change over to Lightroom 3, which is currently in Beta, because I have had problems with Aperture, which, until recent upgrades (HD, RAM & graphics card) to my system, would not even load images for print. All I had was a blank preview page, and a constant, frozen "loading" message - the symbol underneath remained static, instead of revolving!
It is now possible to print images from within Aperture 2, but I am not happy with the colour fidelity, whereas it is possible to produce excellent, natural colour prints using its "minnow" sibling, iPhoto!
My intention is to buy another 3 VR300s to form a 4 drive Raid 0 array for optimum performance, and to store the original 640GB drive as an emergency bootable back-up. I would have ordered the additional VR300s already, but for the fact that there appears to have been a run on them, and currently they are out of stock at all, but the more expensive, UK resellers.
I should be most grateful to receive advice regarding the following questions:
QUESTION 1:
I have had a look at the RAID setting up facility in Disk Utility and it states: "To create a RAID set, drag disks or partitions into the list below".
If I install another 3 VR300s, can I drag all 4 of them into the "list below" box, without any risk of losing everything I have already installed on the existing VR300?
Or would I have to reinstall the OS, applications and software again?
I mention this, because one of the applications, Personal accountz, has a label on its CD wallet stating that the Licence Key can only be used once, and I have already used it when I installed it on the existing VR300.
QUESTION 2:
I understand that the failure of just one drive will result in all the data in a Raid 0 array being lost.
Does this mean that I would not be able to boot up from the 4 drive array in that scenario?
Even so, it would be worth the risk to gain the optimum performance provide by Raid 0 over the other RAID setup options, and, in addition to the SE II, I will probably back up all my image files onto a portable drive as an additional precaution.
QUESTION 3:
Is it possible to create an eDrive partition, using TechTool Pro 5, on the VR300 in bay !?
Or would this not be of any use anyway, in the event of a single drive failure?
QUESTION 4:
Would there be a significant increase in performance using a 4 x VR300 drive RAID 0 array, compared to only 2 or 3 drives?
QUESTION 5:
If I used a 3 x VR300 RAID 0 array, and installed either a cloned VR300 or the original 640GB HD in bay 4, and I left the Startup Disk in System Preferences unlocked, would the system boot up automatically from the 4th. drive in the event of a single drive failure in the 3 drive RAID 0 array which had been selected for startup?
Apologies if these seem stupid questions, but I am trying to determine the best option without foregoing optimum performance.

Well said.
Steps to set up RAID
Setting up a RAID array in Mac OS X is part of the installation process. This procedure assumes that you have already installed Mac OS 10.1 and the hard drive subsystem (two hard drives and a PCI controller card, for example) that RAID will be implemented on. Follow these steps:
1. Open Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities).
2. When the disks appear in the pane on the left, select the disks you wish to be in the array and drag them to the disk panel.
3. Choose Stripe or Mirror from the RAID Scheme pop-up menu.
4. Name the RAID set.
5. Choose a volume format. The size of the array will be automatically determined based on what you selected.
6. Click Create.
Recovering from a hard drive failure on a mirrored array
1. Open Disk Utility in (/Applications/Utilities).
2. Click the RAID tab. If an issue has occurred, a dialog box will appear that describes it.
3. If an issue with the disk is indicated, click Rebuild.
4. If Rebuild does not work, shut down the computer and replace the damaged hard disk.
5. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
6. Drag the icon of the new disk on top of that of the removed disk.
7. Click Rebuild.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2559
Drive A + B = VOLUME ONE
Drive C + D = VOLUME TWO
What you put on those volumes is of course up to you and easy to do.
A system really only needs to be backed up "as needed" like before you add or update or install anything.
/Users can be backed up hourly, daily, weekly schedule
Media files as needed.
Things that hurt performance:
Page outs
Spotlight - disable this for boot drive and 'scratch'
SCRATCH: Temporary space; erased between projects and steps.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/StandardRAIDlevels
(normally I'd link to Wikipedia but I can't load right now)
Disk drives are the slowest component, so tackling that has always made sense. Easy way to make a difference. More RAM only if it will be of value and used. Same with more/faster processors, or graphic card.
To help understand and configure your 2009 Nehalem Mac Pro:
http://arstechnica.com/apple/reviews/2009/04/266ghz-8-core-mac-pro-review.ars/1
http://macperformanceguide.com/
http://www.macgurus.com/guides/storageaccelguide.php
http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/harddrives/index.html
http://macperformanceguide.com/OptimizingPhotoshop-Configuration.html
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/404/kb404440.html

Hi, I want to downgrade from OSX LEOPARD to OSX TIGER but I have a few questions regarding this. My iMac is originally from 2007 it came preloaded with tiger. I have original install tiger discs version 10.4.10. Is it safe to downgrade or not please help

Hi, I want to downgrade from OSX LEOPARD to OSX TIGER but I have a few questions regarding this. My iMac is originally from Sep 2007 it came preloaded with tiger. I have original install (2) tiger discs version 10.4.10. I want to know if it is safe and what are the necessary steps to do so. Also by downgrading im wondering if a lot of apps nowadays support tiger for example I have photoshop version 5 and 4 these are very important to me. One last question does anyone know of any reliable virus protection for mac that doesnt slow down your computer? because I have read that a lot of them do so. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it! Here are the specs for my iMac
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Processor Speed:
2 GHz
Number Of Processors:
1
Total Number Of Cores:
2
L2 Cache:
4 MB
Memory:
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Bus Speed:
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Most of the time a perception of general slow performance is the result of installing third party junk alleged to speed up, "clean" or "optimize" your Mac, or to look for viruses that don't exist. Ideally you would know what you installed so you can uninstall it, but if you don't know or aren't sure there are techniques such as Safe Mode and creating a temporary user account to confirm that suspicion.
If you open Activity Monitor it may show a process, or processes, that occupy a lot of your system's time.
Slowness confined solely to web browser activity is often the result of an inexorable progress toward websites that demand ever more processor-intensive tasks. If your slow performance is strictly limited to web browsing, you might try disabling Flash by either uninstalling it, or use utilities such as ClickToFlash that allow you to control what Flash content gets loaded. Flash in itself is not inherently evil, but there is nothing to stop websites or the advertisers who pay for them from writing horrible Flash code that can do everything from hogging 100% of your CPU's time to causing random crashes. You can watch Activity Monitor as in the above to correlate these troublesome web pages with performance degradation.
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Assuming your system is free of third party parasitic junk attached to OS X in an ill-conceived attempt to improve upon it, that your hard disk drive is sound and the boot volume has enough free space to work with, by far the best performance-enhancing improvement would be to add more memory. Buy as much as your computer can use and that you can afford. 2 GB is not that much any more.
Read the following for some recommended troubleshooting techniques from Apple:
General purpose Mac troubleshooting guide: Isolating issues in Mac OS X
Creating a temporary user to isolate user-specific problems: Isolating an issue by using another user account
Memory limitations: Using Activity Monitor to read System Memory and determine how much RAM is being used
Identifying resource hogs and other tips: Runaway applications can shorten battery runtime
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Im making a photo slide show using imovie. how will i make a dvd copy that can play in both pc and dvd player. i dont have an idvd anymore. m using a mbp early 2011 osx 10.8.5

im making a photo slide show using imovie. how will i make a dvd copy that can play in both pc and dvd player. i dont have an idvd anymore. m using a mbp early 2011 osx 10.8.5.
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Thank you QuickTimeKirk...used toast to burn project... my project was in .mov, i tried to play it a dvd player, it did play... will try again tomorrow using another dvd player just to be sure it'll will really work with dvd players. thank you again for your reply *=)

How can I make an iPhoto slideshow into a DVD in Lion?

How can I make an iPhoto slideshow into a DVD in Lion?

If you MacBook Pro came with Lion preinstalled then you will not have a copy of iDVD. That's because iDVD and iWeb have been discontinued by Apple and is not longer being included in iLife.
You can purchase a copy from Amazon.com: iLive 11.
If you do have Lion this post will self destruct in 10, 9, 8... seconds and you can follow Terence's directionsl
As for iDVD the following is a recommended workflow to follow;
Once you have the project as you want it save it as a disk image via the File ➙ Save as Disk Image menu option. This will separate the encoding process from the burn process.
To check the encoding mount the disk image and launch DVD Player and play it. If it plays OK with DVD Player the encoding was good.
Then burn to disk with Disk Utility or Toast at the slowest speed available (2x-4x) to assure the best burn quality. Always use top quality media: Verbatim, Maxell or Taiyo Yuden DVD-R are the most recommended in these forums.
OT

Lightroom Slideshows and iTunes Music on Mac?

How do I use an iTunes Playlist on my Mac as audio for a Lightroom Slideshow? I have the latest Lightroom and iTunes versions.
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http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5350300&#5350300
See the above discussion. I believe (but to be honest, I am no expert. I am trying to figure out a different, but related question) that you can reformat your iPod to the FAT32 system on your PC, then go back to your Mac, use it as a hard drive, and transfer your songs to your PC that way. Once in the FAT32 format both PCs and Macs will read the iPod disk.

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I am posting this to both the PhotoShop and Lightroom forums. I use PhotoShop CS4 and Lightroom 1.1 on a Windows XP OS.
My question regards Camera Raw.
Question 1: If I open a RAW file in PhotoShop will the properties remain if I later open it in Lightroom, and vise-versa. Previously I had used Canon’s DPP and once I opened files in PhotoShop it was at square one. I concluded this was due to different manufacturers. I can adjust to that. Now that I am staying with just Adobe products I want to make sure I don’t have to do everything twice.
Question 2: Using Bridge I have opened some jpg’s in Camera Raw and manipulated them. It seemed to work better if I clicked “Done” rather than Save Image (if I need to save it in another directory).
Question 3: If I am working in PhotoShop and would either like to open a Raw file or manipulate a jpg in Camera Raw, is it possible to open Camera Raw without having to use Bridge?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.

rollsnut wrote:
I am posting this to both the PhotoShop and Lightroom forums.
You would have been better off asking on the Camera Raw Forum, not Photoshop (since you posted it only to the Windows side).
As for your questions, you can indeed coordinate settings to and from Camera Raw and Lightroom but it's a matter of understanding how metadata editing works...In Camera Raw/Bridge, settings are saved in the file or in a side car file...in Lightroom settings are saved in the Lightroom catalog database, not the file or side car UNLESS you specifically instruct Lightroom to read or write the settings to or from the file.
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The other questions aren't really Lightroom questions and would be better of posted in the Camera Raw forum...

X230: Questions regarding included 32GB msata SSD

Spoiler (Highlight to read)
Hi... I've got a couple of questions regarding the X230 offered in Singapore, which comes with a msata ssd:
"Up to 5x Boost 32GB Micro Solid State Drive Outperforms 5400rpm Drive "
I AM assuming this is a msata ssd?
http://shopap.lenovo.com/SEUILibrary/controller/e/sgweb/LenovoPortal/en_SG/special-offers.workflowho...
1) Given the limited size of this msata SSD (32GB), can I assume that only the operating system (Win 7) is installed here by default?
What about the folders under "My Documents", "My Pictures" and etc. Are they also installed into the SSD by default? I tend to leave all my work documents in that file, and it fills up pretty fast.
2) I assume that the recovery partition is still located in the 320GB SATA HDD(7200rpm)?
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4) If I do a factory recovery using the recovery DVDs (which I will create as soon as I receive the x230), will everything be installed correctly? Windows 7 to SSD and recovery partition to HDD?
Thank you for your time!

the expressways software would make the 32 gigs mSATA a drive cache for the main HDD. Nothing is really installed on the mEATS, only files that are frequently used or predicted to be used frequently will be replicated on the mSATA.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Lightroom Slideshow Question regarding DVD copying.

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