Linking 2 routers

I am looking for advice on linking 2 routers. Currently I have a WRT610N with DSL on the second floor. We are remodeling our basement and my idea is to run an ethernet cable from my existing router to the basement and connect to another wireless router. This would then provide wireless access in the basement. I would also like to use one of the wire ports on the basement router to a media center extender and possibly utilize some of the other wired ports also.
Is this possible?
What is the best way to accomplish?
Should the new routher for the basement be the same as the primary?
Anything else I am missing or should be aware of?
Thanks for your input.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You do not need to set NAT to disabled.

Similar Messages

For all those with D-Link routers and problems with iTunes dropping AppleTV

My setup: Custom built WinXP PC with iTunes 7.6.2. Apple TV w/Take 2. D-link DI-624 wireless N router, wired to the PC, wireless to the aTV.
I have an intersting phenomenon occuring with my Apple TV. I can sync the aTV to my PC and it works fine, but the first time we receive a phone call on our VOIP phone, the router drops the ATV connection to the PC. aTV still has internet connectivity, but iTunes on the PC cannot see the aTV, and I cannot sync.
A search yielded gobs of folks with D-link routers and iTunes/AppleTV connection issues. I just won an Airport Extreme router off ebay...as soon as I have a chance to test it out I will post back in this thread as to the results.
I know folks don't like the solution to be "spend more money", but I think it would be worth it to a lot of people if they knew a different router would solve their issues (rather than continuing to guess or throw money at the problem randomly).

I have a WinXP PC and a Linksys G class router. I am on Comcast broadband cable. Both ATV and PC are on wireless link. And I have tried a borrowed Apple Airport router (G class). That didn't help resolve this problem so far. I don't think it is a router issue as you will see that many folks on this forum have the same problem with a wide mix of environments. Many of them are on pure Apple components and so one cannot blame Microsoft and non-Apple devices.
Having said this, I hope the new router resolves your issues. In my case, the only option left is to keep calling Apple Care.

D-Link routers/modems may prevent machines going to sleep

Many people on these forums have reported problems with machines failing to sleep. Two of us who contribute to the MacUser forums in the UK have discovered that what we have in common is the use of D-Link routers/modems and that when these are disconnected the problem is resolved. One is using an eMac running Panther while I'm presently using a G4 Cube running Tiger. The D-Link equipment is different - one is a D-Link DSL-504T, while the other is a DSL-300T, but both are connected via the ethernet port.
Both of us went through the usual troubleshooting procedures, including deleting the Globalprefs and Power Management preferences. Both machines will sleep satisfactorily when manually set to sleep, but neither will sleep following the options set in System Preferences (whether or not the wake when modem detects a ring or wake for system administrator settings are ticked). Disconnecting the router/modem is the only thing that will allow the machines to fall asleep automatically.
D-Link's technical support has been unable to offer any assistance that might point to why this sleep issue occurs or what the solution might be. I don't know whether this problem occurs with any other modem/routers, but it certainly doesn't happen with the Netgear device I have connected to my home iMac.
While I can't offer a solution, I thought this information might be useful to others who are experiencing sleep issues.

Many people on these forums have reported problems with machines failing to sleep. Two of us who contribute to the MacUser forums in the UK have discovered that what we have in common is the use of D-Link routers/modems and that when these are disconnected the problem is resolved. One is using an eMac running Panther while I'm presently using a G4 Cube running Tiger. The D-Link equipment is different - one is a D-Link DSL-504T, while the other is a DSL-300T, but both are connected via the ethernet port.
Both of us went through the usual troubleshooting procedures, including deleting the Globalprefs and Power Management preferences. Both machines will sleep satisfactorily when manually set to sleep, but neither will sleep following the options set in System Preferences (whether or not the wake when modem detects a ring or wake for system administrator settings are ticked). Disconnecting the router/modem is the only thing that will allow the machines to fall asleep automatically.
D-Link's technical support has been unable to offer any assistance that might point to why this sleep issue occurs or what the solution might be. I don't know whether this problem occurs with any other modem/routers, but it certainly doesn't happen with the Netgear device I have connected to my home iMac.
While I can't offer a solution, I thought this information might be useful to others who are experiencing sleep issues.

Linking Routers via wireless

Is it possible to connect two routers wirelessly?
The setup I would like to achieve would be something like the diagram below.
(Monospace version. Needs fixed width (monospace) font and 49 character lines)
|--------| |--------| ADSL
ADSL<-|Wireless|<-Wi-Fi->|Wireless|--connection
|Router 1| link |Router 2| not used
|--------| |--------|
^ ^ ^ ^
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
v v v v
Wired links Wired links
to computers to computers
Proportional space version
|--------------| |--------------| ADSL
ADSL<-|Wireless|<-Wi-Fi->|Wireless|--connection
|Router 1| link |Router 2| not used
|--------------| |---------------|
^ ^ ^ ^
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
v v v v
Wired links Wired links
to computers to computers
Two of the computers shown as connected to Wireless Router 2 have major problems connecting via a wireless link.
I cannot use Ethernet over mains power leads as the two sets of computers are in different buildings.
I cannot run a cable link between the two buildings.
Operating Systems:
SuSE Linux
Mandriva Linux
Xandros Linux
(and I may have to use Windows on one or two computers)
Any help would be gratefully received.
Mycroft.

DSE 1. Thank you for your reply and for the suggested URL. I will look there and see what it has to offer.
The routers have not been selected yet. Suggestions would be appreciated. I may buy new routers or I may be able to use routers from systems that are to be discontinued. They will be Wireless ADSL Modem Routers.
I will also look into your suggestion to use one of the routers as a wireless repeater bridge.
Regards,
Mycroft.

Home Hub 5 firewall rules and TP Link routers

I am not yet a BT customer but am looking to sign up for Infinity and I understand I will get a Home Hub 5 unit ... however I would prefer to use my TP-Link AC1750 which has proven to be excellent with it's WIFI signal. My TP-Link is a cable version, not the ADSL version.
I understand the HomeHub 5 now contains the VDSL modem built in (rather than separate) so I suspect I'll need to hang my TP-Link off one of the HomeHub 5 Gbe ports and disable Wireless on the Home Hub. Has anyone tried this? Do you know if the firewall rules can be set to put my TP Link in a "DMZ" , i.e. no firewall protection, because I'd prefer to do that as my TP Link is a router/firewall combined and it will make it easier for getting my VPN ports working etc.
Alternatively do you know if the cable you would normally plug into the HomeHub5 "Broadband WAN" plug is just straightforward Gbe, i.e so I can put it straight into my TP Link and not use the HomeHub 5 at all?
Thanks
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Keith,
Thanks very much for your reply. So I can't use the HomeHub 5 as a cable modem, but do you know what kind of broadband/WAN connection BT OpenReach provide that goes into the HomeHub? Is that straight-forward Gbe that I could probably plug into my TP Link, as it's designed to take a Gbe connection? (Currently it is connected into one of the LAN ports of my ADSL router/modem/firewall device as I'm still on ADSL but was planning my upgrade to Infinity)
Alternatively, I could connect my TP Link into one of the Home Hub 5 LAN ports, so long as I can designate that port as a DMZ port (i.e. no firewall protection) so that my TP Link will be the only one controlling the firewall rules. Is it possible to make one port, or one device a DMZ device on the Home Hub 5?
Thanks

WIFI problems solved with D-Link USB WIFI adapter...

I have a brand new Macbook Air and I have persistent problems connecting to my home wifi network. Sometimes I can connect to the router but not the internet, but usually Airport won't connect at all: it keeps asking me for the password for our home network (even though it's stored), so I re-enter the password, but it still can't connect. When it gets to this point I know that I either have to live without internet for the rest of the day, or disrupt my work and everyone else in the household by rebooting my computer and reseting the router (sometimes just one of these actions will work, but it's unpredictable).
So I bought a D-Link DWA-125 USB wireless adapter and installed drivers from Ralink (http://www.ralinktech.com/support.php?s=3) and it pretty much solves the issue.
I don't know what further proof Apple needs that this is a problem with the Air and not the internet/router/etc. It's rather comical that I have to use an ugly old USB adapter to get a brand new Macbook Air to connect to internet in my own home.

vilayyyy wrote:
I've had my Macbook for 2 yrs and the wifi basically never worked - only when I'm right next to the router, at school, or of course the Apple Store. I tried to get apple to fix it under AppleCare, but since it was working perfectly in the store, they said there was nothing they could do.
If your Mac works well at school, or the Apple Store but not at home, the problem definetly is not the Mac and therefore there is no need to buy a external usb wifi device.
You better will fix the settings of your home router and after that your Mac will be fast and smooth on your home wifi.
I've had only on very rare situations a problem with d-link routers over the years and think (if not damaged) even your d-link will work pretty good with your Mac.
Would you be so kind and explain the settings of your home router and what model it is?
Lupunus

Worksetmap not showing correct links when we launch via quick link

Hello Portal gurus,
My Scenario:
I'm using EP7 (SP
Launch a quick link from a HTML to display Worksetmap iview.
Problem:
Displays the whole role node of links but not the relevant links.
Displays properly when we click on the relevant DTN(detailed level navigation node(has the quicklink)) node.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Surya

Hi, the username and password on D-Link routers is case sensitive, particularly the first letter of the username.
My Cisco Network Magic Configuration:
Router: D-Link WBR-2310 A1 FW:1.04, connected to Comcast High Speed Internet
Desktop, iMac: NM is on the Windows Partition, using Boot camp to access Windows, Windows 7 Pro 32-bit RTM, Broadcom Wireless N Card, McAfee Personal Firewall 2009,
Mac Partition of the iMac is using Mac OS X 10.6.1 Snow Leopard
Laptop: Windows XP Pro SP3, Intel PRO/Wireless 2200BG, McAfee Personal Firewall 2008
Please note that though I am a beta tester for Network Magic, I am not a employee of Linksys/Cisco and am volunteering my time here to help other NM users.

2 routers one LAN

Is it possible to have a LAN with two routers, each one connected to a different DSL line?
The idea is that all the Macs can be in the same LAN but some of them access Internet through one router and the other ones through the other router.
I know that all Macs and routers must be in the same IP range (192.168.1.XXX, for example), but I don't know if it's enough to put the desired router IP address in the router field of the Network preferences pane of each Mac.
For example:
Macs 192.168.1.2 and 192.168.1.3 access Internet through router 192.168.1.50 and Macs 192.168.1.4 and 192.168.1.5 access Internet through router 192.168.1.100. But all Macs can share files and print to the same printer.
Thanks for your help

>Thanks for a little clarity on that Camelot... I've read of people trying it, and about dual WAN devices for sale, but never read about anyone succeeding.
There are dual (and multi-) WAN link routers around and they work with varying degrees of success.
In most cases, especially if running NAT, you don't actually get twice the throughput because one connection cannot be sent over both links simultaneously. The way these things typically work is either in an active/failover model (use the second link if the first one fails), or in an alternating fashion (where the first connection from user A is routed out of link 1, subsequent connections from user B routes out through link 2). That way you do get a benefit, but not as much as you might expect (e.g. you can't link two 5mpbs DSL lines so you can download something at 10mpbs, but two people can download at 5mpbs without affecting each other.

Airport Express (using AirTunes) with D-Link 614+ Router

I have the following issue with my Airport Express not able to stream audio to iTunes. My configuration is an existing D-Link 614+ Wifi Router and I joined the Airport Express to my existing wifi network.
I found a thread that says D-Link routers uses the 192.168... IP range and Airport Express uses the 10.0... IP range. I followed the advice and used the workaround to reset the Airport Express to also an IP in the 192.168 range.
The light turns green on the airport express, but I can't see the remote speaker button on iTunes (version 6.0.1). I am able to go into my router and see that the Airport Express received an IP = 192.168.0.3. But using my iBook and the Airport Utility, I can't see the Airport express, but if I choose "other" and type in the IP address, I am able to open and configure and checked the remote speaker box and name it "Living Room". I open up iTunes, but I still don't see the remote speaker button in the lower right? Does anyone know what might be the problem?
Thanks,
David

Too bad... because that would have been an easy solution to the problem if it had been the cause.
It seems you have properly configured your Airport Express as a client on the D-Link router's wireless network - otherwise your Mac would not be able to communicate with it at all. Unfortunately, it seems something is still blocking communication between the Airport Express and your Mac - which explains why (a) the Airport Admin Utility is unable to automatically "see" the location of your Airport Express and (b) iTunes is unable to automatically "see" the location of your Airport Express.
At this point, I cannot see an obvious cause to your problem (other than observing that D-Link router owners seem to be more than their share of obscure configuration issues). Some have commented that a setting on the D-Link router for "long" vs "short" preamble is an issue. I'm not really sure the "subnet switch" workaround described in Ewen's article is really that important, and on that theory you might try doing a hard reset of your Airport Express and following the alternative configuration instructions for the Airport Express as described in this discussion by David Lovell (also works for Macs):
David Lovell, "Airtunes for XP with a Wired/Wireless network" #1, 08:05pm Jan 8, 2005 CDT

D-LINK Router Network

I just bought a D-Link 524UP router for a small office wi-fi network (my first choice was a Buffalo G125, but was toasted). The setup was a breeze, very easy, configured with WEP password, activated firewalls and got it up and running in 15 minutes. For those who're looking for a cheap option this one works great, so far. Not tried the USB printer sharing option yet.

If you log into the router following the instructions in the users manual, you may be able to bypass the page you posted. Depending on where you are located, the router gets an IP either through DHCP or PPPOE. If it is PPPOE the user name for PPPOE setup would be verizonfios for both username and password in the PPPOE setup page. Or you can load the Verizon In Home Agent that should set it up for you.
Here is the Verizon In Home Agent post at the top of the FIOS Internet forum.
http://forums.verizon.com/t5/FiOS-Internet/Troubleshoot-and-Setup-FiOS-Connections-with-VZ-In-Home-A...
Here is the Link to the Users manuals.
http://www22.verizon.com/ResidentialHelp/FiOSInternet/General+Support/User+Guides/User+Guides.htm
A little off topic but. You must not have FIOS TV service, or have an older setup that required a COAX adapter. The FIOS TV service requires MOCA which is supported by the Actiontec router. There have been some complaints about the Actiotec router but I have found it superior to the D-Link that it replaced. The Older D-Link routers are no longer used, and if you call tech support and tell them it is giving you trouble, they may give you the upgrade at no cost. You may or maynot be required to send the old router back, and if they want it back they will give you a shipping label for you to take it to the nearest UPS store.

Anti-virus/malware for routers?

I recently went through a nasty malware issue. After reformatting my laptop and having the issue return immediately, I was baffled. I then went on a few larger 'geek' sites and it was suggested I check the router since I had never bothered to change the default admin password.
Apparently a rewritten ZLOB variant was able to hijack my router. I logged into my router and most of the GUI was dismantled.
I reset the router (WRT54G) and then updated the firmware. I was then able to do my AV. Windows and anti-malware updates again (attempts were previously blocked)
I think I was infected from my GF's laptop after she logged into my router.All of her computers and her roommates computers are similarily infected...they have a DLink router.
I am running so many AV, anti-malware apps that it seemed impossible for me to get infected. Yet I did. Is there a way (other than changing the default password cause apparently it looks for routers that were unchanged) to protect my router?
It seems a matter of time before the router becomes the critical attack point.
I tWRT54G

Like I said, I have been doing this far too long to infect myself. I formerly worked for a large software developer. I reformatted this computer and was still getting the same problems.
There are several script attacks now out there that require no user actions to infect. If you read the link I provided from Trend Micro, they confirm this. Only by running with no java can you avoid these. I have seen four networks with both Linksys and D-Link routers infected by this attack. You can heed the warning from a customer or keep blaming me for the issue.
It does appear that a secure password is, for now, a good safeguard.
This issue is also affecting people running Mac's and iPhones through their router.
Fortunately I found a virus specialist who helped me identify the problem, though he is still unsure of the exact attack method and how the infection is exploiting all OS while some older configurations remain unaffected.
Indeed I failed to reset the admin password on my router following a power failure which opened me to the attack. I would think that at the very least a reminder to customers would be in order.
If this is a sign of things to come, perhaps Cisco would be wise to lead the field by creating a method of tieing in the router to an anti-virus/anti-malware scan.

Looking for a reliable modem to connect to an Airport Express

Hey Everybody,
I've got an Apple Express connected to an (ISP supplied) D-Link modem/router than is really not happy about it. I'm getting the impression that D-Link routers just hate Apple products on a deep and personal level, as if there is an ancient vendetta we're all not aware of.
The D-Link has a PC and the Airport connected to it and there is an iMac upstairs connected to the Airport.
The old D-link has been dropping the connection to the airport for no apparent reason. I'll do a power cycle and reset some settings to it get going again but a day or two later it just decides it's had enough and boots it.
At first i thought it was an IP issue so i set all the addresses and that got it working for a few weeks before it dropped out again. Now i can't get it to recognise a connection at all.
I know the D-Link is recieving a signal (the light on the connection point flashes) and the iMac can establish an ethernet connection...it just can't get internet access. i have been pulling my hair out for weeks trying to sort this out. the only good thing that has come out of it so far is that i've learnt quite a lot about setting up routers (i started knowing nothing, now i know slightly more than nothing).
two questions;
is there something i'm missing that would fix this that is blindingly obvious to intelliigent people but beyond my reach as a network novice?
do i just have a crappy modem? can anyone recommend a better one?
Help me Obi-wan Kenobi, you're my only hope.

Been rockin this one for awhile. It kicks a** with my Extreme.
Do some research though, make sure it's compatible with your isp.
Message was edited by: Apple_Hero78

New MacBook Pro cannot connect to internet

I've helped setup 2 MBP this week. Each of them could not connect to the wireless internet in my office using DHCP. In both cases I had to make a network setting of DHCP with manual address (I used 192.168.1.150 since my network is 192.168.1.x) and I was then able to see the internet. After an update I could change the network setting to Auto and the computer could connect just fine.
Anyone else have this problem?

Choice is fine. Just a shame you cannot get DHCP to work out of the box. But it is odd they do not work with both Linksys and Airport Extreme.
I am one of those without the connection problems, except with D-Link routers at work -- we have two as (like you) we have two networks. One network uses 192.x.x.254 as router and the other 192.x.x.253 and the Mac defaults to 254 so we have to lie to it and, like you, enter settings manually. So it connects to the one, but not the other, using DHCP.
Do the new computers have the latest Airport Utility (1.2.1) and Airport Disk Utility (5.3.1) installed. Was that the update you mentioned in the original post?

Slow upload speeds when using my wireless N router

Hello,
I just have a quick question maybe someone can help me out with. I have my verizon issued G rated router hooked up normally. I turned off the wifi, and using one of the lan ports ran a cable to my D-link wireless N router. I wanted to use this router, because it gives me great coverage in my house and have worked great for me in the past. Anyway, I plugged my pc which has a gigabit adapter directly into one of the four open lan ports on my wireless N router. Download speeds were consitently between 41mb/s to 45 mb/s which is awesome. However the upload speeds are horrible and tops out around 3.5mb/s.
Here is where I need someones help. If unplug the PC's lan wire from my wireless N router and instead plug it directly into one of the open ports on the Verizon router, I get the same download speeds, but now i am getting between 30 and 35mb/s. Does anyone know why plugging into the lan port on the other router kills the upload speed? It has to be something in the settings, because if I connect wirelessly to either the verizon or the Dlink routers, I get the same upload speeds for both usually around 25mb/s. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

You don;t say which D-Link router you have. A number of D-Link routers have an option called "Game-Fuel". This is a setting that enables specific QOS settings. If you have Game-Fuel turned on, that can adversely impact your upload. Game-Fuel uses QOS to ensure that no one user monopolizes the upstream bandwidth.

The wireless network appears to have been compromised and will be disabled

I have been getting this message from time to time since I purchased my Airport about a month ago, I think in total I have received it 3-4 times. The reason it is interesting is because the behavior is similar to some other posts about dropped connections.
They symptoms are I will be surfing along and suddenly I get no data at all, it just stops dead. If I have an active application that is trying to pull live data like PC Anywhere I will tend to get the above message. If I don't then no message but I have to turn off my Airport NIC in my laptop and turn it back to reconnect.
I have found that by going into my Airport Utility and under Wireless Options changing the WPA Group Key Timeout to a longer period the problem has been mitigated. It is still a problem overall but at least the chance is only every 8 hours instead of every 1-2 hours.
To improve security WPA changes encryption keys from time to time and my theory is that either the Airport base station or the Airport NIC card have problems with this procedure.
One thought is that the Airport NIC misses the change and thus is still trying to send data using the old key. I don't know how this could happen, maybe it is going to sleep for a short period?? This would go along with the disconnect and reconnect working though.
Another thought is that whatever method is being used to detect a security compromise during the exchange of new encryption keys in the WPA standard is way too sensitive and is thus deciding to lock all users out for the mandatory minute. This would explain why people seem to get it with D-link routers etc. Maybe after the minute things just don't negotiate properly, maybe this was by design for security?
Has anyone played with the different encryption schemes? I am currently using WPA/WPA2 Personal. I am guessing that WEP won't have this issue because it doesn't use rolling keys. I wouldn't use WEP though because it can be cracked in ~1 minute. I know users have reported that no security works fine but I can't use this as I don't live on a 100 acre farm. Is WPA2 any better?

I also switched to 5GHz N only mode at the same time. I see some other posts that indicate this helps.
Maybe other 2.4 GHz traffic is being mis-read as a hack attempt and the wireless is shutting down??
This is still better than the Netgear I had, when it stopped traffic both the wired and wireless were dead and there were no errors. I couldn't even access the config page.

I have an older Power Mac and it does not have the ability/hardware to connect to my wireless network.It is on 2nd floor which has no ethernet connections available. How can I get connected wirelessly?

I have an older Power Mac desktop computer. I do not believe it has the hardware to connect wirelessly to my wireless network. The computer is located on the 2nd floor of my house where there are no ethernet network connections so I would have to use wireless to connect to the internet. I have a wireless LinkSys router downstairs that I use to create my wireless network. I also have a Time Capsule upstairs but without the ability to plug an ethernet network cable into it, I cannot use it to get internet access t the computer.
What hardware can I add to give me the abiity to connect the Power Mac to my wireless network?
Is there a way perhaps to link routers? IE. Can I somehow have my existing wireless router downstairs connect wirelessly with the Time Capsule upstairs that i could then plug the Power Mac into for connectivity?
Not sure what version of OS this computer is currently using but do know it does not have the newer dual Intel processors. As such I am unable to update to newer OS versions.

While uselessSABOTAGE's advice is great, in case of future issues, it would helps us in the future if you would post accurate tech specs of your model iMac.
You info states you have an older IMac PowerMac, but is also says your OS X version is OS X 10.7.2.
This is not possible. OS X 10.7.2 Lion only runs on Intel CPU Macs.
Please, go up to the Apple symbol in the upper top left of OS X main menu bar. Click the symbol. Then click About this Mac. A popup window appears that gives some basic info. Then, click the More Info button and both post your iMacs complete specs by selecting/highlighting all of the info and copy paste this into a reply to this post, editing out your iMac's serial number. Then update the info you posted in your user profile with some of this new found data for future postings.

Linking 2 routers

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