Locked - Tips for Choosing the Right Video and DVD Converter

Spam content removed by moderator.

They are ALL 7200 RPM. I wouldn't suggest anything less.
I need something with 7200 RPMS +RAID Protection
For $600? Not gonna get more than RAID 1, and that isn't recommended for video editing...not really fast enough for anything other than DV. Of the ones I mentioned, only the Caldigit VR is capable of Raid 1. For hardware Raid 5 you need at least 3 drives (internally on a Mac Pro with a Caldigit Raid card, or Apple Raid card, for example)...or a 4-5 drive enclosure with eSATA or miniSAS connection. Can't be had for under $1000. Looking at least at $2000.
That Promise SmartStor...that's for DATA, not VIDEO. Software RAIDs aren't reliable for video. In my experience. But get what you want.
Shane

Similar Messages

Tips For Choosing the Best Samsung Cell Phone Battery

It is difficult to imagine the world would be like if you do not use a mobile phone! We have become so dependent on the use of Samsung mobile phones, we will be panic, if we mistakenly forgot at home. The Samsung mobile phone is a key part of most people's lives, and get them up every minute of friends, family and business partners.
Taking into account a new Samsung mobile phone purchase, but also consider the Samsung mobile phone battery. Here are some suggestions to help.
More standby time and talk time, you should choose a Samsung cell phone battery with high capacity. However, when you select a high-capacity Samsung mobile phone battery, there will be a heavier weight. A bigger Samsung cell phone battery, cell phones can not enter the cell phone pocket, or protectors. If you plan to travel a lot with the phone, which could lead to a problem, your phone may not be easy to carry.
Select the Samsung cell phone battery, lower cost, and may not be the best choice, quality. Make sure you ask if you buy a new battery or refurbished one, which is a key issue! Tips to find a renovation is the incredibly cheap price. Refurbished batteries may have old parts, it may not work as effectively as a new battery.
Buy a new battery, you get a guarantee that if you have any questions? Remember, some just do not work, as long as expected. Usually Samsung phone manufacturers will provide a new battery only when it is purchased in a specified amount of time.

mtongy wrote:
we will be panic, if we mistakenly forgot at home.
i won't.

Choosing the right video conversion software

I am pretty sure this topic has been discussed with interesting comparative analyses, but could not find it.
If it exists, can someone be kind enough to show me the thread?
If it does not exist, then may I expose my problem:
I am normally exporting my video clips (from XDCAM-EX-HD) into Quicktime Movie using the XDCAM-EX 1080p30 Compressor in my sequence setting, to burn a Blu-Ray. So far it works fine.
But I also want to export them in a format to be read in Full HD by Sony PS3. The only format I found which works is HD for Apple TV which is only 720p and the picture is of much lower quality than from the Blu-Ray.
I would like therefore a software which could convert the .mov file into a DVIX or MP4 file in 1080p resolution which can be read by the PS3.
Which is these numerous conversion software can do it?

This thingy...which is a pack of presets for Compressor...has one for PS3.
CRAM 1.0
Shane

Best video and audio converter that contains most format at mac app store

Dear All;
What is the best video and audio converter that contains most format at mac app store?Can you suggest any on Mac App Store?
Regards;

I use Wondreshare's dvd ripper. I travel for a living, so the $60 or $70 I spent to rip my entire dvd collection onto an external hard drive that I can take anywhere I go. Their software isn't available in the App Store to my knowledge but I have had it for a couple years now without any trouble.

Mac Book Pro just got it, all was well for 2 weeks now Finder window does not fill whole screen, there is an 1 1/2" space of black on the right side and the Finder window had a 1" section that flipped like a rolling tv now it is a white bar! Help!

Mac Book Pro just got it, all was well for 2 weeks now Finder window does not fill whole screen, there is an 1 1/2" space of black on the right side and the Finder window had a 1" section that flipped like a rolling tv now it is a white bar! Help!

Bad video card, call Apple, get a case number and return it.

My ipod wont let me buy any apps because it says i have an invalid security code for my moms credit card but its the right one. and it also says i owe money for upgrading an app does anyone know how to remove my moms credit card cause i cant figure itout

my ipod wont let me buy any appps because it says i have an invalid security code for my moms credit card but its the right one. and it also says i owe money for upgrading an app does anyone know how to remove my moms credit card cause i cant figure itout

To change asccount information see:
Changing Account Information
For the code issue this may help.
iTunes Store: My credit card's security code or zip code does not match my bank's records
For a standard iTunes account you need a valid payment method even for free apps and app updates.
What is making it think that you own money for an app upgrade?

What are the ports required for the Audio, Video and A/V conferencing when the following end points are enabled for QoS in Lync 2013 server?

Hi All,
What are the ports required for the Audio, Video and A/V conferencing when the following clients are enabled for QoS in Lync 2013 server?
Client Type
Port range and Protocol required for Audio
Port range and Protocol required for
Video
Port range and Protocol required for
A/Vconferencing
Windows Desktop Client
Windows mobile App
Iphone
Ipad
Andriod phone
Andriod Tablet
MAC desktop client
Please advise. Many Thanks.

Out of the box, 1024-65535 for all of the client ports. :)
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/gg398833.aspx
You'll want to tune your client ports a bit
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/jj204760.aspx as seen here, and then the client ports would use those ranges which is easier to set QoS markings. I'm not sure the mobile clients respect that setting.
Elan's got the best writeup for Windows clients here:
http://www.shudnow.net/2013/02/16/enabling-qos-for-lync-server-2013-and-various-clients-part-1/
However, the marking of the packets is the tricky part. Windows can do it via Group Policy, but for the other clients you'll need to have the network specifically prioritize ports regardless of DSCP markings. You have to do it based on ports
as the traffic could be peer to peer.
Please remember, if you see a post that helped you please click "Vote As Helpful" and if it answered your question please click "Mark As Answer".
SWC Unified Communications
This forum post is based upon my personal experience and does not necessarily reflect the opinion or view of Microsoft, its employees, or other MVPs.

I forgot my ipod 5 passcode. i do all the steps itunes tells my to do. when i get to the right page and it says "restore ipod" i click it. it works for about 11minutes left and then it says like 'error cod erXX011210021" PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!

my iPod is I 5th generation. I forgot my passcode and typed in the wrong thing too many times, so now on the lock screen it says "connect to iTunes" I did all the steps your supposed to. I unplugged all cord from iPod connecting to my computer, I held the home button and plugged my iPod back in, and then I keep holding the home button until the iTunes sign showed up. I got to the right page and then clicked restore. A small window came up saying " restore and update" I clicked it, I agreed to the terms and agreements and the updating started. The updated finished with =out a problem. I t was when I clicked "restore " that I had a problem. The restoring lasted until I had about 10 or 11 minutes left. that is when I saw a alert of my screen saying "iTunes could not finish restoring,. an unknown error occurred. error code: 0xE8000065" I tried restoring and updating my iPod about three or four times now! PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

See this support document, iTunes: Resolve USB-related alerts - Apple Support or this one regarding the same error and Windows. iOS: Unknown error containing '0xE' when connecting to a Windows PC - Apple Support

Apple Watch does it make provisions for left-handers? either a mirror image version, or the ability to rotate the display 180º allowing it to be worn on the right wrist and controlled with the left hand?

Does the apple Watch accommodate left-handed people? is there a mirror image option, or can the display be rotated 180º, allowing the watch to be worn on the right wrist, and manipulated with the left hand? Just wondering if you have thought about that?
Thanks,
Rick
PS: none of the "communities " accessible to me seemed appropriate for this question, so I am posting here, hoping someone will forward it on to the proper place in Apple.

Does the apple Watch accommodate left-handed people? is there a mirror image option, or can the display be rotated 180º, allowing the watch to be worn on the right wrist, and manipulated with the left hand? Just wondering if you have thought about that?
There's a option when setting up the watch to set it up for left handed users. That and the easily user revisable straps will accommodate lefties.

How do I choose the right HD for my macbook pro 13"?

It has a 250gb SATA 5400rpm drive already. I want something WAAAYY bigger. I just want to make sure it is the right size and can copy over my old hd.

Use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone your present OS X boot partition (no Bootcamp or Filevault) to a blank external drive, you can hold the option key down and boot from this clone.
Make the drive switch
http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/
Boot from the clone and use Disk Utility to Erase the drive with the Zero or (on 10.7) the next to last option on the right to map off any bad sectors on the drive. (takes some time but worth it)
Then use CCC to reverse clone and reboot normally.

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

How to choose the right Mac Pro Specs?

Hello all,
Below is a question I posted in May along with someone's response. I'm wondering if I should still go with the response I received considering the new release of the mac pro 12 core. Did anything change that I need to note in my purchase or is the below response suitable? THANKS!!!!!
my question:
I need some help in choosing the right specs for my mac pro. I am looking for a computer that will help me in running my small business and keep my art portfolio organized. I'll probably be running several programs at a time (ex. mozilla, itunes, adobe bridge, dreamweaver, illustrator, and photoshop). More specifics below
What i'll be using it for:
building a few websites
managing my small business
large photo file editing
keeping business files, artist receipts, etc
cataloging my art portfolio (large photo files)
storing photos, music, and short videos
graphic design
infrequent film editing
infrequent sound editing
what programs i'll be using:
CS5 (mostly photoshop, illustrator, bridge, dreamweaver)
iphoto
itunes
maybe minimal finalcut/soundtrack pro
maybe minimal aftereffects
Advice?
My concerns are that it needs to run pretty smoothly with multiple programs open, no overheating, plenty of space for file storage and application support.
Hello washleyill,
My advice would be to buy the standard configuration 2.66GHz Quad Core (i.e. 3 x 1GB RAM, 640GB hard drive) from the Apple store, with the exception of the graphics card which you can buy as a CTO option for $200.00. It is well worth the upgrade from the GT120 - I know, because I upgraded myself last November after using a GT120 for 4 months.
With regard to the memory, if you can afford it now, buy 4 x 4GB from OWC now. If not, I would suggest that you buy 2 x 4GB now, and then add another 2 x 4GB in the future. 16GB of RAM is a much better option than 8GB for your requirements. You can sell the 3 x 1GB RAM to OWC in "part exchange", and there would be little difference in price for 2 x 4GB to the CTO option of 4 x 2GB.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#1066-memory
Instead of buying 2 x 1TB hard drives as a CTO option, you could purchase 2 x 1.5TB or 2 x 2TB HDDs for less money, and you would still have the 640GB. Spare drives are always useful. I use my original 640GB as a spare emergency system boot drive (OS and applications) in an external enclosure.
Another alternative is to wait a few more weeks, in case the rumours of the introduction of a new Mac Pro range in June have any foundation.
Regards,
Bill

Hello again washleyill,
The defining factor, which you haven't mentioned in either this or your original question, is what your overall budget is.
With the introduction of the new models, it's a new ball game now since I replied to your original question.
Now, if it is within your budget, I would recommend the 2010 Mac Pro 3.33GHz 6-Core "Westmere", with the standard 1TB hard drive, the basic 3 x 1GB RAM, but with the CTO Radeon HD5870 1GB Graphics Card.
This is the same configuration that Lloyd Chambers (of Mac Performance Guide fame) has recently ordered:
http://macperformanceguide.com/index.html
Then buy as much memory as you can afford now from OWC (trade-in the 3 x 1GB of Apple RAM against this):
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Mac-Pro-Memory#1066-memory
(The 1333MHz is now listed on this page as well as the 1066MHZ)
If your budget is large enough, then certainly it is worth considering the 2.93Ghz 12-Core, but the 3.33GHz 6-Core, with maxed out memory and fast hard drives, should be more than adequate for your requirements. The more memory the better for Photoshop CS5!
I have just ordered Photoshop CS5 myself. It is a big step-up from Elements 8, and I was going to wait until next year, by which time, hopefully, any initial problems and bugs should have been resolved.
However, Adobe UK made me an offer I couldn't refuse! The full boxed Photoshop CS5 edition for half price!
Also, the offer included an option to buy Lightroom3 at the same time with a 30% discount off its normal price, and so I have taken the plunge and ordered that as well, because I have never been completely happy with Aperture (II or III). Normally, I would not have purchased both Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 3, but at these prices the offer was too tempting.
Best of luck with your purchase,
Regards,
Bill

FAQ: How do I choose the right sequence settings?

In general, the settings of a sequence should match those of the primary footage type in the sequence. Though Premiere Pro can mix footage of various types in a sequence and compensate for differences in characteristics, performance and quality are maximized when such conversions are avoided.
See this video for more information:
How do I choose the right sequence settings?
Also see these sections in Premiere Pro Help:
Create a sequence
Sequence presets and settings

Sorry to say this - but you've got the wrong advice from Adobe.
You were right in selecting the profile for Epson premium glossy paper - if that's what you are printing on.
The magenta cast is most probably due to double color management, i.e. color management for your printer was not switched off. You did all the right moves , but still the color management for the printer was not switched off. This seems to be an Epson - Lightroom problem. You are about the fourth poster who has this problem with Lightroom and Epson printers. All of them said that they were sure that they had color management by the Epson printer switched off. There seems to be a hidden setting that prevails or is called by Lr.
The magenta cast is typical for double color management.
Read this - maybe it helps: http://people.csail.mit.edu/ericchan/dp/Epson3800/printworkflow.html#display_calibration
Don't miss the section on "How to print images from Lightroom".
I don't have an Epson printer so can't give you further insight on this. Except ...
Disable - temporarily - all custom print profiles and templates that you may have created. Move them to a different folder where Lr does not find them. I cannot guarantee that this helps but if the problem persists it might be worth a try.
One of the above mentioned posters said that the problem disappeared after disabling an old print preset that he had created for a prior version of Lr.

Help me choose the right workstation

Hello,
After 5 years of using Dell products for my company, I am currently investigating to switch to Lenovo computers.
Can you help me to choose the right workstation please ?
Usage: webdesign and webdevelopment
Expectations:
8go RAM
1ssd 120go for os (can be purchased apart)
2 sata 500 go 7200 raid 1 for data
2 displays connected through dvi (no 3d acceleration needed but good 2d on two displays minimum with large resolution). Possibility to add a third monitor ?
product available in france
price around 1000/1500 euros
I thought E30 was a good choice but :
can I add a ssd disk in the second 5"1/4 media bay ?
can I boot on this disk ?
can I Still use Raid 1 sata disks ?
can I choose a video card with 3connections for monitors ?
Many thanks for your answers.
Best regards.
Lenovo X220 4287-CTO / Intel Core i7 2640M @ 2.8 / Corsair Vengeance 16 Go@1866 MHz CL10 / Samsung SSD 840 PRO 512 Go / Bios 1.38 / Linux Xubuntu 14.04LTS / eGPU ATI Radeon 5870 Eyefinity 6 / 2x DELL U2142M / 2x DELL U2212HM
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Many thanks for your answers,
About storage, can E and S series handle RAID 1 of SAS disks ?
I have two Cheetah SAS 300go 15K RPM, and I would like to use them in this workstation.
And, are you sure that S series are available for customization in France, the website displays nothing on the S20 page: http://shop.lenovo.com/SEUILibrary/controller/e/frweb/LenovoPortal/fr_FR/catalog.workflow:category.d...
Best regards,
Lenovo X220 4287-CTO / Intel Core i7 2640M @ 2.8 / Corsair Vengeance 16 Go@1866 MHz CL10 / Samsung SSD 840 PRO 512 Go / Bios 1.38 / Linux Xubuntu 14.04LTS / eGPU ATI Radeon 5870 Eyefinity 6 / 2x DELL U2142M / 2x DELL U2212HM

I'm unable to view a multiple page pdf document using Safari. A locked padlock appears in the right corner of the tab. Thanks

I'm unable to view a multiple page pdf document using Safari. A locked padlock appears in the right corner of the tab. Thanks

hello prgc37, you original problem was likely caused by a fault extension that you have installed. can you try to [[Reset Firefox – easily fix most problems|reset firefox]] and see if this can address the issue...
otherwise such connection issues are also often caused by a firewall/security software which doesn't recognize & therefore blocks new firefox versions. please remove all program rules for firefox from your firewall and let it detect the new version of the browser again.
[[Fix problems connecting to websites after updating Firefox]]
finally please also [https://www.mozilla.org/en-US/plugincheck/ update your plugins] (flash seems a bit out of date).

Locked - Tips for Choosing the Right Video and DVD Converter

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for