Low Framerate and only 156 frames were rendered!?

When I try to play my 3d camera swivel, the framerate is very low...and when I select the area I would render and render it with "alt-shift-cmd-r", only 156 frames were rendered!!
Is there a way to render the sequence fully??
Help me please!!
Thanks!
I hope you understand my bad english....

First, you can just use command-r (it's easier on the fingers ). I think if you just lower your resolution (From full to half, that will help). I tried it with a clip and my ram preview when from 175 frame to 600. The number of frames you get does depend on 1)How much RAM you have, 2) the size you are working at (SD,720, 1080, etc). Larger frames take up more RAM.

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Slow framerates and weird shaders in game

Inside the game "Sauerbraten" which is a 3D shooter, I get very low framerates and some surfaces with shaders have strange glitches on them.
I have Mac OS X Leopard 10.5.2, and I have the game and OS up to date.
To make sure this wasn't just with the game, I booted into Windows and started the game up, and I am getting great framerates, around 150-200FPS, running 1440x900, while on Mac OS X, I get around 8-40.
To explain the shader thing:
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8897/screenieqa3.jpg
Thanks,
Tundra-Conor.

I just looked up the details of 'Sauerbraten' and it appears to be a PowerPC game.
You're presumably running an Intel-based MacBook Pro (as you can boot into Windows) so the game will be running under PowerPC emulation. That's probably where the problem lies - it's not emulating very well(!)
Edit: Actually there does seem to be a Universal Binary/Intel version. Make sure you've got that version not the PPC version.
Message was edited by: Jim Pomme

TS3999 In MONTH, (PC) iCal only clearly lists 2 items a day. The 3rd item is "faded" and bottom portion cut off, w/ a "more" triangle in the lower-right corner. How can I expand (vertically) so the 3rd line posts clearly, and ONLY shows "more" if 4+ event

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[email protected]

In MONTH, (PC) iCal only clearly lists 2 items a day. The 3rd item is "faded" and bottom portion cut off, w/ a "more" triangle in the lower-right corner. How can I expand (vertically) so the 3rd line posts clearly, and ONLY shows "more" if 4+ events?
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Thx!
[email protected]

I'm trying to open a 900kb Word doc (240pages) in Pages but get this error message: Import Warning - A table was too big. Only the first 40 columns and 1,000 rows were imported.

I'm trying to open a 900kb Word doc (240pages) in Pages but get this error message: Import Warning - A table was too big. Only the first 40 columns and 1,000 rows were imported.

Julian,
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Perhaps the originator could use a tabbed list rather than a table. That's the only way you will be able to contain a list that long in Pages. You can do the conversion yourself if you open the Word document in LibreOffice, Copy the Table, Paste the Table into Numbers, Export the Numbers doc to CSV, and import to Pages. In Pages Find and Replace the Commas with Tabs.
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AE CC 2014 Corrupted and Glitched frames when rendering to Quicktime

Ever since upgrading to the newest version of After Effects, I've been getting corrupted and glitched frames when rendering videos with a Quicktime holder. My normal workflow is rendering the video straight out of AE, but it also happens when rendering with Adobe Media Encoder, or even while using the "BG Renderer" script for AE that renders from the terminal. It happens whether I have multiprocessing enabled or not.
The corruption differs depending on what codec I'm using, but in the Cineform Codec it shows up as green frames:
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Even more strangely, I can fix the problem if I link the AE composition to Premiere, then render the QT file out through Premiere itself. The fact that Premiere calls and renders the Comp fine but AE does not, makes me think this is a bug in AE's treatment of Quicktime rather then a driver/system incompatibility on my end. But I'm certainly willing to try any suggestions the community might have for me =]
Specs:
Windows 7 64-bit
AMD Firepro V7800
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T
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Fully Updated AE
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solutions for problems with QuickTime files in After Effects CC (12.0) because of conflict with DVCPROHDVideoOutput Quic…

Help! When i click and drag, only the frame moves!

So when i drag a pictue in a frame, whether its eps, png watever, only the frame outline drags with my mouse, the content stays where it started, then when i relese click in a new place the content moves to it.
I think this is some sort of fast mode or something but i cant figure out how to turn it off?
If i click and hold for a couple seconds then when i drag the picture drags with my mouse, but its so annoying having to hover on the picture every time i want to move something.
It also happens with transforming the picture, scalling it or rotationg it etc. I just get a preview of where it will end up from the frame outline then when i release the picture goes there.
Im on CS6.
If someone could help would be amazing, i've searched the web and im stumped!

You are looking for Live Screen Redraw, and reseetting the prefs won't do a thing becasue it's set to dealyed by default in CS6. You can set it to Always in the prefs, or you can click and hold for a moment before dragging to get the live view.

Final rendering of video is low quality and too bright

Here is the link to my original video clip, the video clip in the project, and the final rendered copy all on my monitor at the same time:
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/shadon1nja/FixingRenderQuality_zps124306a5.png
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http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t63/shadon1nja/RenderText_zpsd1240701.png
The picture got downsised which makes it harder to see the issue,but here is most of the it:
The final copy is lower quality and way too bright. Noticibly too bright. The clean darks turn into rough gray, and the quality is noticibly lower as well. I have checked the "use maximum render quality" and tried exportiing in AVI and MP4, and nothing is fixing it. Any ideas?

First of all, what type of file do you need? If you're looking for lossless quality then I would suggest exporting a quicktime file with the Animation codec or some other lossless codec. However, these type of files are huge and they might not play back on your desktop. But, if you're just going to put this video on the internet when you're finished with it then I would suggest starting with one of the Youtube or Vimeo H.264 presets and modifying it to match your clip. It still won't look as good as your original, but you can't expect miracles when working in SD and exporting to H.264, which is a very lossy codec to begin with. If you want to try exporting to a lossless Quicktime or AVI, then change the settings so they look something like this:

I select a page for printing and the print page shows only the frame data and this is all that it prints.

when I click on print the page to print shows only the frame and that is all that is printed. Why isn't the page data shown on the print page and also printed?

This is how you do it:
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee374/Diavonex/c7db8382.jpg
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee374/Diavonex/5e4aadae.jpg

I purchased three albums last week and only two of them were charged. How can I make sure that the third album gets charged in a timely fashion?

I purchased three albums last week and only two of them were charged. How can I make sure that the third album gets charged in a timely fashion?

Well, thanks for feeling with me, patkosanke ... AND for your wise advice.
I did followed your advice immediately and erased all the service number as well as S/Ns.
Can you, however, give me any "direct number" through which I can get hold of someone and request for what you're suggesting?
I believe I had talked with the person by the name of "Charlie" (I think... I hope I'm correct...) when I was having the same problem with the last device. He was very kind and helpful, though I ended up getting the device that brought the same problem.
Charlie told me that if I had any more problems I should call him. But I forgot to take down his direct number.
Or maybe I should call the main office and ask for him. But my memory is questionable as to his name, and besides I don't even know his last name either. There could be more than one "Charlies" in Palm.
So, if you could somehow email me some direct number (other than the one that keeps on hooking me up with those people in the overseas who are answering the phone only to sympathize with & apologize to me but can only issue a false hope with the SRO#. More than once I was given the promise that the supervisor would call me back within an hour or two but I ended up calling back after I had been left hanging in the air all night long.) where I can talk to someone like I did with Charlie last time who can truly carry out the promise, I would truly appreciate it, patkosanke. ^^
Thanks
jcinlovewpalmTX
Post relates to: Palm TX
Post relates to: Palm TX
Message Edited by jcinlovewpalmTX on 03-05-2009 06:36 PM
Message Edited by jcinlovewpalmTX on 03-05-2009 06:36 PM

I updated to imovie 11 on my iPhone 4 and my old videos were the only ones there. Everybody else that had this problem went to settings privacy photos then turned on access to photos from imovie. When I went to the settings and went to photos there

I updated to imovie 11 on my iPhone 4 and my old videos were the only ones there. Everybody else that had this problem went to settings > privacy > photos then turned on access to photos from imovie. When I went to the settings and went to photos there was no imovie option.
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I have exactly the same problem and cannot see the imovie privacy option in photos either

After upgrading iOS5, my apps were deleted. Truing get them back, and only partially, the other apps, apple store is changing me again. Tried to restore and and sent an error. Now the Ipad won´t even boot. Can anyone help, besides Apple?

The iOS5 erased all my apps. Went to get them back and only part of it was recognized by Apple store. The others the store prompts to pay. I tried to go back to the old system and restore but as it was in sync an error ocurred and now I don´t have even the operating system. It won´t rebbot. I am afraid it will not stop searching the booting system until batery is dead and it will take many hours.
Any chance somenone ran into the same problem that could help?

The only people who can possibly assist you with this is Apple Customer Relations, call your local Apple contact number and ask for Customer Relations then explain your situation clearly and politely (be firm but don't rant).
You might want to investiage what the local laws are regarding defective goods and 'fit for use' definitions on warranties etc. Consumer Protection can be a useful tool to use or bargain with if needed ...

One or more frames were dropped during playback???

I have finally complete my movie.... now when I play it back there are two clips which produce this error message:
"One or more frames were dropped during playback"
It tells me I can:
"Turn off unlimited RT" (which is off)
"lower compression data rate" (no idea what that is)
"Close open sequences" (but Im working with the only one open)
"lowering preference for real-time audio tracks" (??)
"increase speed of system..."
Any suggestions on an easy fix? The clips worked before... I think it was when I added a transition that they stopped working. I took out the transition but nothing changed. I even tried to delete the clips and recreate them from the original source saved on my comp. Thanks in advance!

Sounds like your drive is fast enough? Are you playing back rendered material or unrendered? Are you using Unlimited RT or Safe RT?

Best camera for low light and sports

have the sx200is
looking for a newer camera for sports and low light shots

The challenge with sports is that you are REALLY pushing the camera gear to it's limits. Fast action requires fast shutter speeds. But fast shutter speeds demand a lot of light and only outdoor games played during the daytime have that. Indoor games or games played under field lighting at night generally do not have the kind of lighting needed to shoot with fast shutter speeds -- not the kind of shutter speeds needed to freeze action. So this ends up demanding a camera with excellent ISO performance and lenses with very low focal ratios so they can collect a LOT more light when the shutter is open. This gear is expensive.
You will want to consider a reasonable budget depending on what you can afford and the needs of the specific sports.
Are these indoor or outdoor sports? If outdoors, are these played during the day or are they night games?
The "best" camera for sports and low light is the EOS-1D X. It has phenominal low-light performance, has an amazing focus system, and can shoot at 12 frames per second. But it's about $6800 for the "body only" and then you still need lenses. I'm guessing this is probably not what you had in mind. But if money were not a constraint... this would be the one to go for.
The 5D III is another amazing camera for low light performance and and also has an amazing focusing system (largely the same as the 1D X) can shoot at 6 frames per second, and only costs $3500... again, that's the "body only". Still probably not what you had in mind.
The 70D has an extremely good focus system (though not as good as the 5D III and 1D X), not quite as good as low light (but pretty good and much better than a point & shoot camera) and shoots at 7 frames per second (1 fps faster than 5D III) and it only costs $1200 for the body only.
The T5i will be noticeably less expensive than the 70D... a good (but not extremely good) focusing system and 5 frames per second, but the body and 1 kit lens combined is about $850 but that wont a lens suitable for use shooting sports so you'll still need to invest in more appropriate lenses.
When shooting action photography in low light, what you _really_ want is a lens that can collect a lot more light than the average lens for that very brief moment when the shutter is open. Such a lens can allow you to use a faster shutter speed to help freeze those action shots. But *which* lens you use depends on the sport.
For low-light sports, these would ideally be f/2.8 zoom lenses... but f/2.8 zoom lenses are not cheap. Canon's EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (ideal for most indoor sports and outdoor sports IF the action is happening close to you) is about $2500. Sigma's lens is about half that price. But if you're covering action on a large athletic field and the players are far away, they'll still be small. Sigma makes a 120-300mm f/2.8 zoom for sports... for the low low price of only $3600.
Scott Kelby does a video to talk about sports photography and he discusses the equipment used and why... and basically says if you want the gear for shooting sports, you basically need a suitcase full of money.
Tim Campbell
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Only photo "frames" appear

When I open my Iphoto there are only outlines, "frames" of all my photos. Just black rectangle outlines against the grey backdrop. I can tell that there are the correct number of frames where the photos once were, but all my photos have vanished! Help!

Do you get the spinning cog wheel with the white screen? That can mean you do not have proper file access to the file. Close iPhoto, download and run BatChmod on the iPhoto Library folder with the settings shown here, putting your administrator login name, long or short, in the owner and group sections. You can either type in the path to the folder or just drag the folder into that field. Launch iPhoto and try again.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Low framerates on a good Laptop!

Hi,
Recently I bought myself a new laptop named the: HP 15-P032ND
Specs of the Laptop:
Processor: AMD Quad Core A8-6410 2,0 GHz (Up to 3,5)
RAM: 12 GB / HDD: 1 TB + 8 GB ExpressCache
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon R7 M260(2GB)
OS: Windows 8.1
Mainly for school purposes and sometimes a little bit of gaming.
So I booted up Minecraft and noticed I had really low framerates! (Around 20-50 FPS)
The first thing that came to my mind is; 'Why do I have such low framerates on a newly bought
laptop with decent specs?' So I tried out a few things such as;
- Setting Minecraft to the lowest settings possible! (Still only around 40-50 FPS)
- Allocating more memory to minecraft
- Turning off VSync in the AMD Catalyst Control Center
- Setting Minecraft to as an high priority in the AMD Switchable graphics menu
- Setting Javaw to as an high priority in the AMD Switchable graphics menu
- Adding Minecraft to the Games/3DSettings menu
- Adding Javaw to the Games/3DSettings menu
- Trying to change the graphics mode in BIOS to; FIXED instead of DYNAMIC
(This one isn't possible since I don't have the ability to change my graphics mode!)
But none of those options worked, I'm still getting the same FPS rates as I did before!
If anyone can help me resolve this issue, then that would be amazing!
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi Jaco,
I've already seen that article and I get that it's not a High-tier graphics card but
my little brother who owns a laptop as well named: the HP Pavillion dv6-1010ed even
has more FPS then me most of the time. So I guess what i'm saying is that I really don't
understand how a 5 year-old laptop (Which was in the same price range when it was bought)
can have comparible FPS with a laptop which has been released in 2014 with a lot better specs!
Also what i've noticed when I play games like minecraft is that my processor usage sometimes even goes
up to over 60-70% and when I go into my Catalyst control center it tells me about 2 Gpu's named;
- AMD Radeon(TM) R5 Graphics (Primary)
- AMD Radeon (TM) R7 M260 (Linked adapter)
My first thought was that it's using the R5 Graphics so I tried to look up how to switch between those two
but I couldn't find anything that was usable...

Low Framerate and only 156 frames were rendered!?

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