Low quality in slideshow

I use idvd for create photo to movie. I put the originals into slideshow. The originals are JPG in high quality ( photos from canon eos 40D and postprocesing with CS3). I select "profesional quality" and "doble layer" and "add originals" options.
When the dvd is finished I see in a TV. The quality of the images is low and they are pixelation.
If I make Preview with idvd the slideshow is perfect view
If I make slideshow with viewer directly from photos, the slideshow is perfect
What's the problem?
Message was edited by: LUISCC

By definition iDVD output is somewhat low resolution, 640 x 480, to configure to TV resolution. However, I've not ever encountered any pixelation in that sense. What is the playing time of all the media in the project? If it's under 120 minutes, including menus, use a SL disk. See Bengt Warlby's post in this topic which describes video quality in iDVD: http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=8483142#8483142. It's a wealth of information.
OT

Similar Messages

  • Showing lower quality photos in slideshows

    I'm trying to create a slideshow that has a mix of high-quality pictures that look good full-screen and others where the quality is much less and shouldn't be viewed at full screen. I cannot figure out a way to show the low-quality pictures in a slideshow at less than full screen. Is there a way to restrict their size to the optimal viewing size rather than spreading them to full screen where they become grainy and blurry?

    writeguyfla:
    Welcome to the Apple Discussions. There is no way to create a slideshow with a smaller image on the screen than the options in the Setting pane.
    There's a 3rd party slideshow application, PhotoPresenter, that has some wonderful themes that do not require the photo to fill the screen that might work for you. You can try it in demo mode before deciding to purchase. This is one of their fancier themes.
    Do you Twango?
    TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
    I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

  • Better viewing of low-quality photos in slideshows

    I'm trying to create a slideshow that has a mix of high-quality pictures that look good full-screen and others where the quality is much less and shouldn't be viewed at full screen. I cannot figure out a way to show the low-quality pictures in a slideshow at less than full screen. Is there a way to restrict their size to the optimal viewing size rather than spreading them to full screen where they become grainy and blurry?

    writeguyfla:
    Welcome to the Apple Discussions. There is no way to create a slideshow with a smaller image on the screen than the options in the Setting pane.
    There's a 3rd party slideshow application, PhotoPresenter, that has some wonderful themes that do not require the photo to fill the screen that might work for you. You can try it in demo mode before deciding to purchase. This is one of their fancier themes.
    Do you Twango?
    TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
    I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

  • IDVD low quality slideshow

    Hi There,
    I start a new project slideshow of a wedding I shot with my Canon DSLR and decide to make a slideshow DVD with iDVD. I shoot my pictures in RAW and convert them to JPEG in Adobe PS the RAW image is 24MB each and when convert to JPEG they go to 7.9MB. The Issue is I make the presentation and it looks fabulous in my iMAC but when i view the final product in my dvd player the photo's looks out of focus like if the convertion decrease the quality a lot,also i burn the disc in professional quality and Best performance with the same results,i little lagy using Best performance. Anything else i should try? Any advice?
    Mike

    Hi
    And here is my "un-sorted collection of thoughts about DVD-Quality" read if You can take it - It's long !
    DVD quality 
    1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
    • Professional Quality
    (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
    • Best Performances
    (movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
    • High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
    (movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
    Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
    About double on DL DVDs.
    2. Video from
    • FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
    • iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
    when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
    • iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
    3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09  this can also be set)
    This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
    4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
    use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
    5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
    6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
    7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
    (I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
    8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
    iDVD quality also depends on.
    • DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
    deliver anything better that this.
    HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
    These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
    Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
    _ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
    _ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
    _ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
    The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
    Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
    • HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
    less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
    • How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
    • Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
    • Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
    iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
    • What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
    other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
    Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
    strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
    Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
    • What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
    (If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
    (Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
    (US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
    (EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
    UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
    • What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
    • How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
    Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
    Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
    Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
    1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
    (x4 by some and may be even better)
    2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
    Region codes.
    iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
    DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
    1 = US
    2 = EU
    unclemano wrote
    What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
    I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
    I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
    For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
    to get this to work I
    • Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
    • Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
    • Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
    • No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
    • and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
    • and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start  a brand new iDVD project
    • Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
    • Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
    Try to break the process up into two stages
    • Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
    • Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
    To isolate where the problem starts.
    Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
    • Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
    • Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
    • Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
    • No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
    • and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
    • and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start  a brand new iDVD project
    • Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
    • Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
    TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
    • Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
    • No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
    • Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
    • Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
    • Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
    • Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
    pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
    • No File Vault on - Important
    • NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
    • Lot's of icons on DeaskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
    • Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
    • And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
    Yours Bengt W

  • Just upgraded, low quality warning on all photos?

    Hi All,
    Hoping someone can assist me here. Just upgraded to iPhoto 6 and was experimenting with the greeting card function. Apparently, all of my photos (unretouched & uncropped) which are 1704 x 2272 at 180 dpi are too low quality to print reliably. I'm trying to print the images at 5x7 or smaller, and as far as I understand 1704 x 2272 should be adequate, but I get the low quality warning on every picture in my library. I use a Canon Digital Elph S400 at maximum resolution/quality, am I going to need a higher megapixel camera to produce images of sufficient quality for the online printing services? Any advice appreciated.
    Thanks in advance,
    Jennifer

    Jennifer:
    Welcome to the Apple Discussions. Sound like somethings broken in iPhoto. First run Disk Utility and repair disk permissions. Then, if needed, go to your User/Library/Caches folder and delete the iPhoto folder there.
    Next, log into another account on your Mac and see if you can create a card and not get the warnings. If so then your primary account has some incompatibility with iPhoto. If you get the warning then it's probably iPhoto and you'll need to reinstall iPhoto. If you do have to reinstall iPhoto you'll have to delete the current application and all files with "iPhoto" in the file name that reside in the HD/Library/Receipts folder. Be sure to repair disk permissions after the installation and updates.
    Do you Twango?
    TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.

  • Low quality images in web gallery from Output Module

    So when I create a web gallery slideshow using the output module I get SUPER-low quality images, like big jagged, pixellated lines in place of any diagonal line in the pictures. However, only photos in the portrait orientation are affected by this problem. Landscape-oriented photos look perfectly normal, just smaller.
    My first thought was that maybe the images were low quality in the web gallery preview but wouldn't be in the actual saved file, but alas I saved the index.html file and when I preview it in my web browser I get the same result with the portrait-oriented photos.
    Any idea how to fix this? Other than only using landscape photos in my gallery of course!
    Thanks!

    The same problem here. I've noticed it just yesterday, but my Safari rendering is affected the same way.
    I don't think it has anything to do with the recent updates. I reinstalled my MacOS X Leopard day ago and all the images (jpg, gif) have been somehow in lower quality ever since that moment. Even before I installed all new updates today.
    The strangest think is, that it wasn't like this before the reinstallation. I used the same media, and I have, indeed, the same machine.
    I'm hopeless. Have you already found some solution? Or anybody? Would be great...
    Martin

  • Preview in Canvas and Quicktime movie export  low quality

    Hi Guys
    I am trying to make a slideshow/movie using Final Cut Express HD 3.0 the preview in the canvas is very low quality both with the images and titles. I have tried to export to quicktime movie but that movie is still very low quality. They are not sharp and are pixelated. The images look fine with Preview and iPhoto. I do not have quicktime pro I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
    Thanks a bunch

    This comes up pretty off and was discussed in the last couple of days. You might do a forum search. Basically you'll looking at a lores display unless you look at the output on a video monitor.

  • Iphone 5S call voice Low quality.

    Iphone 5S  low quality call voice.  When I make a phone call , people in the other side said my voice is very small and disconnected. The voice is good when I am using the earphone at the same calls

    Hello tigertiger123abd,
    The following article can help sort your iPhone's built-in microphone.
    iPhone: Microphone issues
    http://support.apple.com/kb/TS5183
    Cheers,
    Allen

  • Why is it that when I connect my iPhone 5S to my Windows Vista computer, the photos made with my iPhone are all of very low quality and most of them are turned upside down?

    Why is it that when I connect my iPhone 5S to my Windows Vista computer, the photos made with my iPhone are all of very low quality and most of them are turned upside down?
    On another note, the iPhone tells me that it's ''busy'' when opening a photo on the computer.
    (I tried restarting my PC, connecting via another USB port, importing using PhotoStream, etc...)

    Are you using the front or rear camera? When you say they are low quality, are you referring to file/pixel size, or how the picture looks? As far as upside down, how are you holding the phone? Older versions of Windows have issues reading the Metadata from the pictures and will not display the same.

  • WHAT A LOW QUALITY KEYBOARD!!​! Broken after using for ONE day, what should I do????

    Hi guys~
    I've bought my first thinkpad x230 from lenovo offical online store and recived it on yesterday. I was very exciting when I receive this extreamely light and pretty notebook.
    -However, it not last long... After typing a series of numbers, the “5” key was automatically filped open!!! And I can not put it back again!!!
    -I can't understand why will this happen in such kind of well-known computer? I have never faced this kind of problem when I using those cheap keyboard!
    So, I wan't to know what should I do? I've contacted the tech support, she told me she will submit my problem to some guys and hopefully call me back, however, I didn't receive any call from lenovo.
    I've searched on google and found some guy's thinkpad also have this problem....What should I say? How bad luck I am or what a low quality of lenovo? Or both?
    Can I bring this poor quality thinkpad to the nearest retailer store to seek for help？ Or I should go to the official service center which is very far from me....
    BTW, in this case can I return this notebook for free? Or get a free repleacement of the broken key?

    hausman wrote:
    tianmiao0304 wrote:
    Thanks for your explanation!
    Can I just bring my laptop to the nearest service center and get this problem solved directly? You know, usually it will takes several days to receive the backup keyborad, I can't wait
    You'll have to phone the service center and ask. (When I lived not far from Lenovo's Canadian service center and wanted to bring in a ThinkPad for warranty repair they said that would be OK with them but my unit would be put on a queue the same as if I'd shipped it in. They simply didn't offer walk-in, while you wait service.)
    In the interim it may or may not be possible to reattach the key, even just temporarily, depending on whether it wasn't put on properly at the factory or if it's physically broken in some way. Or you could use an external keyboard until Lenovo sends you a replacement, etc.
    I've just call the local service center, he told me that he can not repair individual key, they can just replace the whole keyboard..... How bad luck I am!!!

  • Can I add an extra lower quality music library to iTunes for iPhone syncin?

    Hi
    I currently have my whole iTunes library in Apple Lossless format as I like the high quality for my AppleTV and don't mind the extra HD space it takes up. However, it means that the files are really too big for the limited 8GB capacity of my new iPhone.
    Question - can I set up a seperate area/seperate Music Library/seperate folder (whatever), where I can duplicate my entire current iTunes Music Library at a lower quality setting, specifically for use when syncing to my iPhone?
    1. How would I duplicate to a lower quality?
    2. How do I set up a seperate area for these lower quality files that will sync to iPhone?
    3. Could I automate the CD ripping process so that it placed a file in each of the seperate areas (big ask that one)?
    Kind regards,
    Garglon

    1. Go to iTunes Preferences>Advanced>Importing
    Select Import using <AAC encoder> Setting <Custom>
    Select the music you want to duplicate and add it to a playlist so its easier to find
    Select all music to duplicate again right click and select Convert Selection to AAC
    2. Close iTunes. Open iTunes holding the option key
    It will ask you if you want to create a new library or open an existing one. Select create library
    Add the new lower quality songs to the library
    You can add the original songs first to this new library >>> then convert >>> and after the conversion remove the original songs from the library(just from the library do not move them to trash)
    You can also just create a new playlist with the lower quality songs but then you would have duplicates in your library
    3 You would have to import the songs from the CD twice
    a. Once in the good quality library(by changing the import settings back from the low quality)
    b. Then open the new library change the import settings and import again
    An easy way to find the newly created files is adding a new smart playlist with the rules:
    Playlist is Music
    Limit to <how many songs you are duplicating> <items> selected by <most recently added>

  • How can I replace one low quality source with another high quality one ?

    Am I really this dumb or is it really this hard ?
    I have one timeline / project / edit that essentially references one long source clip / event / file.
    I have a newer higher quality transcoded version of the same source and want to replace the original lower quality version and end up with the same edited result just with better quality images !?
    It's the same frame rate and image dimensions  but "relink" tells me the new file is not "similar" enough and won't do it !
    Why is this so hard ? Is there a way to export a good old fashioned edl and then just reconform using the new source ?
    What if I wanted to to replace low res offline footage with finished colour-corrected material and output a finished master - would that be this clueless as well ?
    Please let me know the problem is between the chair and the keyboard - not between the hard disk and the power cord !

    Guessing that when you created the higher quality media, it was done outside of FCP and probably changed some important metadata that the app is looking for. Or perhaps there is a difference between the original audio and the new audio.
    Anyway, Luis' advice about the replace edit seems like the easiest solution.
    a_mumford wrote:
    What if I wanted to to replace low res offline footage with finished colour-corrected material and output a finished master - would that be this clueless as well?
    The usual way to do offline online is within FCP – creating the proxies and then using Preferences to switch back to and from.
    If you sent it out for grading, the Relink should work fine. If you haven't seen this kb doc, it's worth reviewing.
    Russ

  • HP Officejet Pro 8600 Low Quality scanning

    My scanned documents are very low quality on my computer. there is a line down the middle of each page and the colors are very dull and low quality. Can someone here help solve this problem?? 
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Scanning from the glass or the ADF? if ADF, and there is a line down the middle, most likely, the ADF scanner need cleaning. There might be a dirt spot on the scanner window.

  • Low quality graphics from screenshots

    I did some full screen screen shots to use in Keynote (using apple + shift 3). These are pict files which look perfectly fine when I open them in preview. I then dragged and dropped them into Keynote, and both in preview mode and when I play the show, the graphics appear fuzzy and low quality - as if they are JPEGs converted to the lowest quality setting.
    Any fix for this? Other than that KN works great and its easy to use. But these graphics are really bad.
    [ Imac G5/ 20 in / 2 g ram : monitor at 1680x1050]

    Why are they saved as picts? I save mine as PNG and they look fine in Keynote. You could also use TIFF or PDF and those should look pretty good too. I think the problem is that other images scale much better than pict does.
    If you want to try changing the format, instructions are here.
    http://textsnippets.com/posts/show/131
    Two tips, if you JUST need to capture a window (so that you can show JUST the area in the window of the tool you're working on) use appleshift4 to turn the cursor into a cross hair then mark off the area you want captured. Also, appleshift4 and THEN pressing space will turn the cursor into a camera so that you can capture the full window without worrying about missing any edges.

  • Photoshop Elements 11 Organizer: Full screen view of lower quality than with PSE 10 and before?!

    Upgrading from PSE 10 to 11, I noticed that when I watch my images with the organizer in PSE 11 in full screen view mode (F11), while the images load faster, they are shown in a lower quality than in PSE 10 or any other version of PSE that I owned before. In PSE 11, after the initial viewing in full screen (in the "fit screen" mode), when I click with the mouse on an image to display the "100%" view, there is a delay and the program says "Loading...", after which the 100% view in the full screen mode appears. When I then click another time with the mouse on the image to get back to "fit screen" mode, I get an image of better quality than during the initial view!
    So it seems like the program first gives a faster, but lower quality view of the image in full screen mode, and only after the user requests a 100% view, it actually loads the image with full detail, which is then preserved when going back to the "fit screen" view. This is a serious issue for me, because I also use PSE organizer to present my pictures to other people, and I don't want to show them some lower quality versions of my images, but the full quality ones, without having to first choose "100% view" and then go back to "fit screen".
    How can I make the PSE 11 organizer give me a full-quality full screen image right away, as this used to be the case in PSE10 and before?
    (I have both versions, PSE 11 and PSE 10, now on the same computer and tested this to confirm that the PSE 11 initial full screen view is of lower quality than the PSE 10 one. Also in PSE 10, there is practically no delay for displaying the "100%" view afterwards, indicating that the image was loaded with full detail right away.)

    - Update:
    * Adobe's senior support level has replied to me about this issue as follows:
    "Thank you for contacting Adobe.
    When you press the F11 button, Organizer 11 uses the Bicubic
    interpolation mainly because it is less processor intensive compared to
    Bicubic Sharper, and it helps to create the preview on the fly, rather
    than based on the thumbnail cache.
    When you zoom out from the 100% view, Elements Organizer uses Bicubic
    Sharper. This is because Bicubic Sharper is used for image reduction, so
    if the 100% view is larger than the available screen space, it will need
    to shrink. The Bicubic Sharper images may look more crisp however, Like
    any sharpening algorithm, Bicubic Sharper introduces halos and
    edge-enhancement artifacts. Those halos are typically slight, but any
    further sharpening (which you'll need when preparing an image for print,
    for example) will exaggerate them.This is expected behavior. The
    Organizer isn't great for determining exact quality, I recommend you to
    use Elements Editor for this purpose.
    Thank you,
    Bobby Johnson,
    Adobe Technical Support."
    * My reply on this to Adobe is:
    "Hello Bobby,
    thank you for your reply. Now at least we are talking about the same thing.
    Why I am wondering about the choice to use the "Bicubic" algorithm when pressing F11 in PSE 11 is that all previous versions of PSE that I owned (which spans from PSE 6 to PSE 10) did use the "Bicubic Sharper" algorithm right away when pressing F11. So apparently Adobe didn't worry about processor intensity of this algorithm then, and computers are getting all the time more powerful.
    It is true that in some situations, the "Bicubic Sharper" algorithm may introduce halos and edge-enhancement artifacts, as you write. On the other hand, especially on smaller resolution screens, the results of the "Bicubic Sharper" algorithm may look more crisp and lively, while the ones of the "Bicubic" algorithm may look more flat and lack fine detail. This is not only my personal opinion, but as I have brought up this topic in several forums, I can see that I am not alone here.
    So assuming that the question about preferring "Bicubic Sharper" or "Bicubic" as a default algorithm when pressing F11 is partly a matter of taste, and partly a matter of the hardware the user has available, why can Abobe not give the user an option to choose which one he/she would prefer? For instance, F11 gives full screen view with "Bicubic" applied, and CTRL+F11 with "Bicubic sharper"? Or make this an option in the preferences?
    As I am using the PSE organizer also to present pictures to other people (and I know many people who use it that way too), I would like to show them my pictures as sharp and detail-rich as possible. Therefore, I would highly appreciate an option as described above to be implemented in the PSE 11 organizer via an update. It should be fairly easy from a programming point of view, since both algorithms are already contained in the program anyway."
    * If you support this suggestion of mine as stated above, please also contact Adobe accordingly! The more support requests they get for this, the more likely it is that they will implement this update! You may mention my case number 0184046323 for reference.

Maybe you are looking for