Low res SD video on widescreen HDTV... again g

Have read a lot of comments about taking 1280x768 output from FCP and making an SD DVD. With the SD only having a maximum of 768 wide when it tries to show on a widescreen tv it looks low resolution (ie crappy!)
What I am looking for is any help with the best settings. If all my dvd movies are SD why do they look great and my output looks pixelated?
Any advice greatly appreciated.

DVDs are 720x480 in NTSC or 720x576 in PAL.
Professional DVDs look better because:
1. you are not looking as carefully
2. better cameras
3. Noise reduction
4. Industry professional compressing
5. better lighting
6. color correction
7. better composition of the shots

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Two mp4 videos on skydrive - low res mp4 video plays but higher res only plays audio

I have uploaded two mp4 video files to windows live skydrive. When I browse to them in firefox (10.0) the lower res one plays perfectly but the higher res plays only audio the video remains blank.
'''this file plays video and audio correctly :'''
File name
P1000505_x264
Dimensions
480 x 320
Duration
0:43
Bitrate
774 Kbps
Size
4,565 KB
Type
MP4 File
'''this higher resolution file plays audio but no video ''':
File name
P1000805_x264
Dimensions
960 x 640
Duration
1:10
Bitrate
1 Mbps
Size
13,573 KB
Type
MP4 File
I have not got quicktime on my desktop pc - I have not loaded any plugins for quicktime - so why does one play and not the other? - and how can I get the other to play please?
(I have updated my graphics driver )

Are Forums any good? - whenever I post I always end up having to answer my own question eventually! - aaah well, anyway for the benefit of anyone interested I suspect it is flash player in firefox browser that is playing the MP4's and perhaps it cannot cope with the higher resolution format.

Does low-res videos/movies look bad on the Retina display? (compared to a full hd display)

I'll be watching a lot of movies/series on the MBP Retina i've ordered, will low-res/480p look slightly worse than it would on a full hd display, or will it look horrible?
Thanks!

What is a "low-res" video? It will look as good as the "low-res" is. If the video is 100px x 100px it will display 100px x 100px unless you stretch or otherwise manipulate it.
If a "low-res" video is an old 1930's grainy video it will look like a 1930's grainy video.
Maybe I did not understand your question.

Ideas and Suggestions for Working with Low Res Video Files

Hi,
A client has asked me to take all of her low res videos she shot with her iPhone and put them on a DVD.
I've made her aware that the end result is not going to be a Hollywood production. I even did a test for her to show the difference between a low res clip and a HD clip. You can see these clips here:
http://designerandpublisher.com/hs/lowrestest.mp4
and
http://designerandpublisher.com/hs/hdtest.mp4
She understands and will fix her camera to shoot high-res next time. Anyway, the footage (330 minutes) I have looks like this when imported into Premiere Pro CS4:
I first just set up a 640x480 timeline and imported one of her clips. It doesn't look too bad. I'm not sure why that green bar is there:
Then I went into the timeline's properties to see if I can somehow enhance it once it goes onto a DVD via Encore:
But i'm not really sure if it's worth fiddling around with a customized timeline. I don't have my hopes up though but I'd appreciate it if anyone could tell me what they did in this type of situation. It seems like the 640x480 timeline, once brought into Encore and transcoded for the DVD, may work best.
Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.
The Deaf Guy

I don't edit video from a cell phone, and you don't mention any particular problems loading/editing... but in case you do have general problems with any of the files, some reading to keep in mind
Iphone won't edit easily because it uses a variable frame rate - A fix in message #22 http://forums.adobe.com/thread/934466

Sending video in low res Lumia 920

My lumia 920 will only send video I have recorded on the phone in low res, not the hd the phone has recorded. Is there a setting I can change to send in HD by default?

When we share a video recorded on the phone, the phone will compress the video to a lower resolution before sending. Unfortunately there isn't a setting to prevent this.
However, if you save the video to Skydrive it will retain its original resolution and you can then use Skydrives share option to send a link to your intended recipient who will then be able to download the video in its original size and resolution.
Ray.

Swapping out source video - working with low res versions

I have high-def sony m2t footage to edit.
I create a prpro project with edits, and I want to send to a collegue to tweak it. No problem.
However, I don't want to send them 30 gigs of source video, but 300mb of low res mp4 versions of the source video, so he can edit and work on timing and effects.
My challenge is that I when he returns the file, I must replace the footage and re-create all of the in/out markers on each clip, as well as the effects.
Is there a way to bulk replace footage in a project WHILE KEEPING the in/out cut, and the effects on each of the video bits? Or, keep the in/out and lose the effects - both are great solutions.
If I could get the same filename for the source video on my machine and the low-res version on his machine, it would be easy. The challenge is that my source video is *.m2t and the low-res versions are mp4, or flv, or mov.
Any ideas, workarounds, best practices for this?
Thanks!
Mark
cs5.5, win 7, i7-920, 12g ram, gt250 video, sony hc-1 camera

Couple thoughts:
Use AME to transcode your original M2T clips to more highly-compressed M2T clips. Drop the originals into the AME Queue, and change the Format to MPEG2 (not MPEG2-DVD). Start with the "1440 x 1080i 29.97 High Quality" preset (this may actually be automatically selected), and then go to the Multiplexer tab and change the Multiplexing option to "TS." Tweak the video encoding parameters (primarily bit rate) as necessary, and save the new versions out somewhere. This seemed to work in my single clip test, though the more highly-compressed file settings may need some experimentation to get smooth playback.
If you already have MP4s, try changing the extension to M2T. Yeah, it might actually work. You can do this really quickly on the Windows command line (don't know how on Mac) by running a simple command:ren *.mp4 *.m2t
In both cases, since the extension is the same, relinking should be fairly automatic.
Report how it goes!

How does low-res videos/movies look on the Retina display, compared to a normal display?

How does low-res videos/movies look on the Retina display, compared to a normal display?

What is a "low-res" video? It will look as good as the "low-res" is. If the video is 100px x 100px it will display 100px x 100px unless you stretch or otherwise manipulate it.
If a "low-res" video is an old 1930's grainy video it will look like a 1930's grainy video.
Maybe I did not understand your question.

Rendered text looks low res

I've read every post I could find about this and gleaned some insight, but still need a more definitive answer than I've come across. I created title cards using the 2D FCE program, as the boris Calligraphy program seemed too complcated for what I need to do and I'm running out of time.
Problem is, the text looks fine until I render it. Render User Settings are 100% for Frame Rate and Resolution. Filters, Frame blending and Motion Blur are all checkmarked. I've tried various combinations of those uncheckmarked. No improvement.
The fonts are Gill Sans plain 27 pt. and Geneva bold italic 24 pt., but it doesn't matter what the fonts are, or the point size, or whether it's the graphic bar I created from a rectangular shape... They all look degraded after render, like a low res approximation for playback. The type, however big or bold gets suddenly darker, and less cleanly defined and the graphic bar actually shortens slightly. Is that in fact what it is, just a low res way of playing back, so I shouldn't worry about how it looks here? However, a fairly knowledgable friend says the image shouldn't look degraded after render. Ultimately going to DVD. Please straighten me out here. Much thanks.

The material is being rendered into an interlaced
digital format for display on an interlaced analog
monitor. It's not intended for display on a computer
screen. The Canvas is for monitoring purposes only.
If you really want to see how it looks set the Canvas
to 100% view. That's the true interlaced image as it
will appear. Of course you can't see this properly on
a computer screen especially if the material has
motion or is animated.
Thanks, Tom, for the explanation and your patience. All is clear except that you suggest that if I really want to see what it looks like, to set the canvas to 100%... that that's the true interlaced image as it will appear. I must be misunderstanding, but when I set the view to 100%, I get an enlarged, TV Safe sort of view, but the resolution looks the same (de-interlaced) as always after the render. Basically what I'm asking is whether the eventual video will look like (with, of course, the normal degradation of NTSC) what I created on 2D text or graphics BEFORE I rendered it.
I tried to check it on a monitor, but when I plugged Video Out from my G4 to the monitor, I got a nice image of the FCE interface on TV, rather than a screenfilling view of the selected sequence. What am I doing wrong here?
Thank you again. I don't know how you put up with these kind of questions, but I deeply appreciate it. Restores my faith in mankind.
- Frazzled in SF

H.264 is outputting stretched and low res.

Dear Compressor mavens,
Help me if you can. My issue is this, a month ago I used compressor to take an uncompressed 1280 by 720 HD QuickTime movie output from FCP and make it into a hinted webcast QuickTime at high resolution and it worked great. I used H.264 at 50% of source and it was a dream to watch on the web.
Now a month later I output the same project again, and using the same settings I attempt to make a similar compression. To my abject horror I found that the output was stretched width-wise to an obscene amount.
I checked the 50% of source settings and noticed that the frame size read: 853 by 360. At 100% it reads the proper aspect ration - 1280 by 720. When I choose "custom" settings on frame size and type in the proper aspect ration for 50% (640 by 360) it exports the correct aspect ration.
But to my complete horror there is a noticeable reduction in quality. The image is low res, pixilated around the edges of objects. Clearly not the same beautiful output I originally got from H.264. The really bizarre thing is that the image is the proper aspect ration without that lower res quality at 100% of source on the same setting.
I tried messing with the video settings, by changing the data rate to automatic, then back, then upping the restrictions, and raising the compressor quality to best. Zero change. Still that crappy pixilated image.
I tried switching the Pixel Aspect "Default for Size" to the proper 720 HD setting. To my elation I saw that now the 50% of source reflected the proper 640 by 360. But the quality still looks the same on the output.
I thought perhaps I exported from FCP wrong. But the uncompressed QuickTime is the right aspect ratio and plays great.
Any ideas? I really need to make a high quality hinted compression for the web.
Save me, oh H.264 devotees...

For H.264 on web, I would recommend one of the frame sizes suggested by Robert Reinhardt at http://labs.influxis.com/?p=6
I believe this goes for every codec which makes use of 16 by 16 pixel macroblocks. If you choose a resolution which is not divisible by 16, 8 or 4, you might in addition to lower quality end up with a 1px green border at either the top, bottom, left or right side of your frame.
Have you tried using frame controls in Compressor? Have a look at this post: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7309534&#7309534
There is no need to change the pixel aspect ratio to something other than square. You want square pixels for content displayed on a square pixel display (unless you are making an Apple TV anamorphic file).

Baffled by My Low Res Output on FCP7

I'll admit to not being an expert but I'm not a beginner either. This one has me stumped. Producing two minutes videos on DVD with FCP7. Output DV NTSC 720X480 anamorphic. Up until yesterday DVDs looked fine on a 720 widescreen. Then... suddenly... DVED playback resolution is low and credits screen fonts at the end (LiveType Movie) were abysmally low res and fuzzy. Everything seems the same as my previous projects... which all look great! Have tried different codecs, QT , Compressor etc. Does any of this ring a bell with anyone. It's probably something really stupid... but eludes me. Thanks in advance for any ideas you might have.

Hi Tony,
I've tried several things. I set my in and out points and exported via Quicktime Movie. I've exported via Quicktime Movie Conversion with several different settings. I've placed my QT export directly into Compressor and tried several methods there... including adjusting frame motion. I'm just totally baffled by the awful low res output. I've done this soooo many times in the past and now, all of a sudden, the output is atrocious.

How To: Low-Res Timecode Hi-Res?

hi guys.
would anybody be so kind as to explain what the timecode-based workflow should be like?
i mean something along the lines of working with QT proxy files off RED cameras, for example.
i'm just not familiar with the technique.
say, i'm editing the low-quality version of a footage (QT file) and when i eventually get hold of the hi-res material (another QT file) in a week's time, i don't want to go through the whole editing procedure again - just need to set the high quality video on top of the already edited low-res material.
how do i go about it?
cheers.

First, it is my impression that using the RED proxies is generally frowned on... That's why they expanded the offering of ProRes codecs. But I digress...
What you're asking to do used to be referred to as off-line/on-line editing. Any more, it seems like those terms have additional meanings. The easiest way to do this is to create a clone of your high resolution source in the suitable resolution. Both the source and the clone need to have exactly the same file names. Then you store the Source off line and cut away on the clone as you like.
In the case of RED footage, you could perhaps use one of the RED proxies (but only after you read the first line of this post again) but I would still clone the original and get it off line and safe.
When you've got the show locked, you simply take the Clone files off line and bring the original Source files online, then re-link the project.
That's pretty much it.
Good Luck!

Premiere Elements 9 - editing in low-res then rendering in HD

Hi all,
Just started using Adobe Premiere Elements 9, editing together a 3 minute music video (so not an epic!). Half way throughand having all sorts of problems as the footage is running slowly or not running at all.
Just bought a brand new laptop with i5 core processor, 4 G RAM and 7,200 rpm, so don't think hardware is the problem.
Question 1.
How can I edit in a low res version and then render in HD (is this called editing by proxy?)? A friend with Premiere Pro said there should be a very simple button that does this. It would seem a basic requirement of any video-editing software. But I can't find how to do it and the only internet search have brought up very confusing and long-winded processes.
Question 2.
Having trouble rendering. I tried rendering as a WMV and the image was very pixilated even though it looks fine on the editing screen. File size was also huge and computer struggled to render it. Also tried FLV, which didn't work at all.
Would appreciate help as I've put hours into the editing process already.
Many thanks,
Christina

>don't think hardware is the problem.
If you want to open and edit a single photoshop picture file... you are fine
For video (which is, in effect, 30 picture files per second, plus sound) you are not fine at all
Trying to use only ONE Hard Drive for Video Editing
You are a music conductor, with a baton that you use to point to various parts of the orchestra... this is like Windows pointing to various parts of the hard drive to do Windows housekeeping or to load program segments for various functions
Now, at the same time and with the same hand... while still using the baton to conduct the orchestra... pick up a bow and play a fiddle... this would be doing something with your video file at the same time as all the other work
You as a person cannot do both at the same time with the same hand
A computer is a LITTLE better, in that it can switch from one kind of task to another very quickly... but not quickly enough for EASY video editing
You need AT LEAST two hard drives (separate drives, never a partition http://forums.adobe.com/thread/650708?tstart=0 for more) with Windows (or Mac OS) and software on your boot drive, and video files on a 2nd drive so the boot drive is not slowed down by trying to do everything
I find that the three drives I use work very well for me, for editing AVCHD video... some people use a 4th drive, so video INPUT files are on drive three and all OUTPUT files are on drive four... I only bought a mid-tower case instead of a full tower case (my bad... but had to fit in the space available on my office desk!) so I use the three drives that will fit
Depending on your exact hardware (motherboard brand & model AND USB2 enclosure brand & model AND external hard drive brand & model) AND the type of video file, you may... or may NOT... be able to use an external USB2 hard drive for video editing
Steve Grisetti in the Premiere Elements forum http://forums.adobe.com/thread/856208?tstart=0 and Jim Simon in the Premiere Pro forum http://forums.adobe.com/thread/856433?tstart=0 use USB externals for editing
A USB3 hard drive connected to a motherboard with USB3 is supposed to be fast enough for video editing (I don't have such, so don't know) but eSata DOES have a fast enough data transfer for video editing... I have not used this eSata Dock... for reference only, YMMV and all the usual disclaimers
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=cm_cmu_pg_ t

Low res pictures on iphoto

i have been trying to develop digital pictures from my iphoto library and when i develop them with snapfish or walgreens they are blurry (i.e. low res/low pixels). it's not the camera b/c i developed the same pics months ago and they were fine.
is there a way to change the resolution of the photos in my iphoto library? also, does it matter how many pics i have stored?
thanks.

Just to be sure, check iPhoto's Preferences > Advanced and look where it says "Importing: copy files to iPhoto Library folder when adding to library." As long as there IS a checkmark in that box, you are running iPhoto in its default mode and all should be well. If that box has been UNchecked, please reply (and disregard the following), as there are some very big differences with the library in that case.
Once you have imported the photos into iPhoto it is safe to delete them from the camera. As long as you haven't deleted them in iPhoto or trashed the files in iPhoto Library/ Originals they are still there. You can check the size of the photos that are in your library. Click the little i near the lower left corner of the iPhoto window to open the info pane. Select a thumbnail from your library, and you'll see its info, including pixel dimensions, in the info pane. To double-check, select a thumbnail and right-click (Control-click). Then choose "Show File" or "Show Original File" (for edited photos). A Finder window should open with the file already selected. You can use that window to trace the path of the file. If this doesn't work for you, please post back with your results.
Be careful that you don't make any changes to the files and folders inside the iPhoto Library folder from the Finder (or any other application). iPhoto is a database application and has its own filing system, which must be left alone. Always manipulate your photos using iPhoto, or export copies from the library for use outside of iPhoto. If you think you may have damaged your library, you can spot check your photos. See if they display with the size slider all the way to the right (largest size). Double-click to see if they open in Edit mode. Right-click and choose "Show File" to see if iPhoto knows where they are. If these things function, then your library is in good shape. If not, post back for the steps to repair it (or start fresh).
what you said about the data folder is exactly what i did. can you explain again what the best thing for me to do is.
Step by step:
Use iPhoto to select the photos you want to upload for printing.
Tip: Shift-click the first and last photo to select a contiguous range;
Command-click to select or deselect discontiguous photos.
Tip: It can be convenient to create an album to gather your photos, then Select All photos in the album.
From the iPhoto File menu choose Export, then be sure the "File Export" tab is selected. Set the Format, Size, and Name options. You'll want the full-size images for best printing. Click the Export button.
A new dialog box will open so that you can choose the location for the exported copies. The easiest, most convenient place is the Desktop. Click the Desktop icon, then click the "New Folder" button. (Too many loose files on the Desktop can crash the Finder.) Name the folder, click Create, then click OK to export the photos to that folder.
When you are logged onto your Snapfish or Walgreens account, select the Desktop folder as your source when uploading the photos for printing.
When the upload is complete, you can drag that Desktop folder into the Finder Trash and delete it. Exports are copies - iPhoto retains your files.
If you wanted to burn a CD to take to a developer, the process is very similar. You would export to a Desktop folder, then burn that folder to the CD. You can use this method to back up your photos to disc. A disc made this way will only contain the photos, with no keywords, album info, or other iPhoto Library structures. It can be used with a computer that does not run iPhoto.
If you want to create a backup disc that does retain the iPhoto albums, keywords, and other metadata, you burn it using the iPhoto Share > Burn command. A better backup method is to save the entire iPhoto Library folder to an external hard drive.
Regards.

Transfering star rating from a low res folder to a high res folder in bridge?

I am wondering if anyone has ever needed to do this or am i the only one?
I have a folder of low res images that have been rated with stars in bridge. I'd like to move these star ratings to another folder of CR2 files that are the exact same file names except they are CR2 and not JPEG's.
Any way to do this?
At the end of the day i have about 1500 images that have been "selected" and i want to pull these same high res images out of the 4000+ images in the high res folder. Any help you can give would be great.
Thanks a bunch.
incase you are wondering why not just rate the high res...Shooting wirelessly to laptop, my client is making the low res images as their selects and then later i'll deliver only these as high res.
Thanks again!

I am wondering if anyone has ever needed to do this or am i the only one?
I recognize this question but I'm afraid that was about many other situations...
Maybe you can ask in the Adobe Bridge Scripting forum if someone has a solution for this but in my experience the time looking or learning for a solution exceeds the time then just bite the bullet and start picking them manual (and don't forget to charge the client for the hours, but you are right, it is better to have a simple solution and yet still charge hours)
I would start to select the rated files in Bridge and add a clear visible label to all the files and then drop (or copy) the lot in the HiRes folder,
Select sort order by filename (or even try date created) and just start clicking on the files next to the labeled jpeg files with holding down cmd key (on a Mac, don't know the windows but this key keeps adding only the clicked files to a selection. Every 10 or 20 files hit a rating or labeling key so you can filter those files later on in the process to only keep the wanted HiRes files in view.
When done choose the filer panel to view only CR2 and label / rating and you have the wanted selection.
Yes it takes a bit time but so does finding out a solution. If you have to deal with it more often you better try the scripting option immediately.

Powerbook G4 12 " display is low res and faint

Dear Gurus of such things,
My Powerbook G4 12" display goes into some kind of low res and faint display after restarting. After days of this, it will suddenly become high res and clear again, for no reason that I can tell. It also recovers after my Powerbook has been connected to a projector.
Is there some way to fix this poor display after restarting without connecting it to a projector?
Thanks Scotianova

Why not ask Applecare to replace the whole laptop ?
by the way,is your MBP a Core or Core 2 Duo?
I am currently using a Core 2 Duo MBP, it's working well(except for a defective battery )but i am happy with it.

Low res SD video on widescreen HDTV... again g

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