Lumia 810 front camera white balance and flicker

Maybe I'm expecting too much from the front camera, but it gives a purple tint to everything! Is this normal on this phone? I can manually set the whitebalence but it never looks right.
Also, I noticed it was flickering badly in low light last night. Its only my second day with the phone so I am going to do more testing tonight.
Are these normal or should I exchange the phone? The back camera has **bleep** whitebalance as well but at least I can get it to look decent.

The front-facing camera and white balance issues also occur on the Samsung Galaxy Tab.
I tried following Joe ... Ward's link http:www.adobe.com/go/wish which led me to eventually led me to "Adobe AIR Ideas website" and this link: http://ideas.adobe.com/air/ is not working: HTTP 500 Internal Server Error
Adobe, please make a note of it... we need automatic white balance "WHITE_BALANCE_AUTO" support on these tablets and mobile devices in AIR for Android!

Similar Messages

Issues with White Balance and other camera setting...

I have found a glitch with the camera on the Lumia 800: When you try to change a different white balance setting- (try it with incandescent so you can see the difference) as well as changing the scene (ie to portrait mode) it will flip back to auto white balance, although it will say that it is still incandescent. If you change the scene first and then the white balance and save those settings, it will take one picture like that and then revert back to auto white balance again for the next shot, but again it will tell you that it is still incandescent. (You can clearly see the white balance difference between the 2 shots, even though the camera settings say they should be the same). The whole point of saving settings is so that you can take multple shots with the same settings. I have spent hours on the phone to Nokia trying to explain this to them and they have assured me that it will be fixed in the next update. I took the phone back to the Orange shop and we tried 3 different handsets and they all had the same problem.
I also have the same problem with video autofocus that lots of people have mentioned. Has anyone found a solution yet? The main reason I got this phone (only last week) was for the camera so I am diappointed. I am a photographer so I am really fussy about cameras! They have said in the Orange shop that I can change the Lumia for another phone, such as a Galaxy S2, which is also an awesome phone. The thing is, I really love the Lumia otherwise. I really like the fact that I don't have an iPhone anymore, for a start!!
Does anyone think the network you are on makes a difference? It's just that several people have suggested that there could be a conflict with the Orange software and the Nokia/Windows software. Does anyone else have this problem who is not with Orange?

Thanks for all of your valuable suggestions.
The problem was compounded when there were drastic shifts in the levels of ambient light also occuring at the same time.
Happy Holidays to everyone.
Bruce

Can you remove the camera white balance setting in Aperture

I have a Canon 7D and use Aperture for processing and storing my images.
With the Canon I shoot both video and still and frequently adjust the white balance in the camera. I make a frequent mistake in leaving the wrong white balance setting on - eg when taking video indoors in the evening I set the white balance to indoors (the Canon seems poor at white balance decision making on video) and then I forget I'm not using auto white balance and switch to taking a photo with flash. The result is a horrible blue photo - which if I don't spot the problem at the time seems very hard to correct afterwards.
I use the Aperture white balance adjustments frequently but unless there is a patch or white or grey I an use the dropper on, I find this particular situation seems to be right off the scale of what I can fix in Aperture. I end up with sliders at the extremes of the scales and no intuitive sense of what numbers to type in manually to try and get realistic colour - so I often end up discarding these photos even if the shot itself is something I'd like to use.
So my question is given I'm importing RAW, is there a way to show the phoo without the (wrong) white balance setting I applied in the camera, to let me choose white balance from scratch?
Or if not, do you have any advice about how to adjust from this very bluey unrealistic colour of image?

Kirkby - thanks for the quick reply.
Didn't know you could drag inside a value field - that's helpful.
But being able to get different numbers on the slider isn't the root of my problem.
In a specific example I have two photos - one taken with white balance set to flash and the photo was with flash, where after a bit of tweaking to get the colour I want the temp slider is at 5000K (and tint 0). The second photo has my shooting error with interior lighting white balance but taken with flash. The two shots were taken from almost the same point of the same view (but different people in frame). The shot with the white balance error comes off camera horribly blue coloured. I can fiddle with the two sliders - I take temperature to 20000K and tint to 40 to do the best with it I can, and with those settings one of the two faces is approaching flesh colour but the wall behind the subjects (which is a light blue in reality) is now appearing light yellow in places. I just can't get a good looking colour effect no matter ow extreme the slider settings.
I may have phrased my question badly - as I totally agree you can't show a raw without a colour setting - so maybe I'm better asking to be able to use a different colour setting on the raw data rather than having to start with adjustments on top of my white balance mistake.
Given the two shots were in the same place against the same background and the same lighting (both with flash) it seems to me I ought to be able to get a similar colour effect on both and I just can't. To illustrate here are the two photos (the one on the left was shot with flash wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 5000K and 0 tint, the one on the right was shot with indoor wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 20000K and 40 tint and it looks terrible!)
https://www.box.com/shared/qle3t6ovyhrd1egez3vc

I have an iphone 4 and i'm having lot of problems: my back camera is blurred although my front camera is fine and working normal. my biggest problem is that the screen is showing colored horizontal lines

I have an iphone 4 and i'm having lot of problems:
_ my back camera is blurred although my front camera is fine and working normally
_ my biggest problem is that the screen is showing colored horizontal lines(as perhaps electrical problems). The phone did fell and I already changed its back and front but everything was normal until these problems appeared suddenly
Please can somebody help me to solve it and tell me what are the reasons?
Thx

you can try turning it off and on again, but i doubt that's gonna work, that sounds like more of a hardware issue. Your best bet may be to contact apple and seek service or replacement

Command Click in edit changes color white balance and tint in edit

Command Click in edit changes color white balance and tint in edit, what is happening?

robwouds:
Welcome to the Apple Discussions. Must be a hidden keyboard combination for temperature and tint. Not sure if the user can set different settings of each that the keystrokes will take you thru. Just hit the reset button in the Adjust pane to get it back to normal.
Do you Twango?

Correcting white balance and exposure

Does FCE offer good ways to fix bad white balance and underexposure?
I just tested the video filter for underexposure and color and they improve things are just pathetic compared to an edit an editor friend did in full Final Cut. So maybe FCE can do better and I just missed or did not see what to do?

You would probably do better with the 2-way color corrector than what you originally did. The 3-way in FCP is a better tool but the 2-way is what comes with FCE.
In general, with the 2-way color corrector you should start adjustments this way:
Click the Auto Contrast button once
Then do Auto Black followed by Auto White (one click each)
Then adjust the Mids if necessary.
After all that, play with the color balance..
To better white balance your shot it often helps to crank the Saturation slider all the way up, then use the eyedropper tool at the lower left of the Balance wheel to select something in your shot that should be truly white (white, not necessarily bright). Since the saturation slider is all the way up, any adjustments you make will be exaggeraged but that helps you get it right. You can make further adjustments to get the whites as neutral as possible and then slide the saturation back down to a more normal level. It takes some noodling, but it can be done.

Adobe DNG converter is corrupting NEF files. The color is way off and it's not the camera white balance.

I was using the converter for a few months and it was working fine. Now it will convert the files, but the color is really messed. I know it is not the white balance, because the same files convert fine to TIF files through Nikon's software. I am using this converter for Nikon d610 NEF files. Here's a sample DNG and the same image in TIF. Can anyone help? Thanks!

When you use the DNG Converter to make a DNG from an NEF, the DNG Converter applies the default Camera Raw settings. When I open your DNG it looks fine, but when you open it, it looks off. That is because you've some how set your Camera Raw defaults to have a bunch of customized settings specific to a particular picture, instead of having them all be normal settings. Below you'll see what Photoshop is saying the settings of the DNG-Converted-JPG are, with the non-defaults marked in bold. The main problems are the WB being custom and a bunch of HSL setting changes.
Here is what Photoshop reports that the JPG was created using:
      <rdf:Description rdf:about=""
            xmlns:crs="http://ns.adobe.com/camera-raw-settings/1.0/">
         <crs:RawFileName>hug_8290_0215_1.dng</crs:RawFileName>
         <crs:Version>6.0</crs:Version>
         <crs:ProcessVersion>5.7</crs:ProcessVersion>
         <crs:WhiteBalance>Custom</crs:WhiteBalance>
         <crs:Temperature>5732</crs:Temperature>
         <crs:Tint>+26</crs:Tint>
         <crs:Exposure>0.00</crs:Exposure>
         <crs:Shadows>5</crs:Shadows>
         <crs:Brightness>+50</crs:Brightness>
         <crs:Contrast>+25</crs:Contrast>
         <crs:Saturation>-4</crs:Saturation>
         <crs:Sharpness>90</crs:Sharpness>
         <crs:LuminanceSmoothing>0</crs:LuminanceSmoothing>
         <crs:ColorNoiseReduction>25</crs:ColorNoiseReduction>
         <crs:ChromaticAberrationR>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationR>
         <crs:ChromaticAberrationB>0</crs:ChromaticAberrationB>
         <crs:VignetteAmount>0</crs:VignetteAmount>
         <crs:ShadowTint>0</crs:ShadowTint>
         <crs:RedHue>0</crs:RedHue>
         <crs:RedSaturation>+11</crs:RedSaturation>
         <crs:GreenHue>0</crs:GreenHue>
         <crs:GreenSaturation>0</crs:GreenSaturation>
         <crs:BlueHue>+12</crs:BlueHue>
         <crs:BlueSaturation>+2</crs:BlueSaturation>
         <crs:FillLight>0</crs:FillLight>
         <crs:Vibrance>-6</crs:Vibrance>
         <crs:HighlightRecovery>0</crs:HighlightRecovery>
         <crs:Clarity>0</crs:Clarity>
         <crs:Defringe>0</crs:Defringe>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentRed>0</crs:HueAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>0</crs:HueAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>+1</crs:HueAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>+5</crs:HueAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:HueAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>-9</crs:HueAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:HueAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:HueAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>-2</crs:SaturationAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>+14</crs:SaturationAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>+25</crs:SaturationAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>+26</crs:SaturationAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>+32</crs:SaturationAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:SaturationAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>+40</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentRed>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>+13</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentOrange>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>+3</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentYellow>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>+15</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentGreen>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>+3</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentAqua>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>+4</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentBlue>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentPurple>
         <crs:LuminanceAdjustmentMagenta>0</crs:LuminanceAdjustmentMagenta>
         <crs:SplitToningShadowHue>231</crs:SplitToningShadowHue>
         <crs:SplitToningShadowSaturation>32</crs:SplitToningShadowSaturation>
         <crs:SplitToningHighlightHue>45</crs:SplitToningHighlightHue>
         <crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation>33</crs:SplitToningHighlightSaturation>
         <crs:SplitToningBalance>+74</crs:SplitToningBalance>
         <crs:ParametricShadows>-39</crs:ParametricShadows>
         <crs:ParametricDarks>-7</crs:ParametricDarks>
         <crs:ParametricLights>-15</crs:ParametricLights>
         <crs:ParametricHighlights>+14</crs:ParametricHighlights>
         <crs:ParametricShadowSplit>25</crs:ParametricShadowSplit>
         <crs:ParametricMidtoneSplit>50</crs:ParametricMidtoneSplit>
         <crs:ParametricHighlightSplit>75</crs:ParametricHighlightSplit>
         <crs:SharpenRadius>+1.0</crs:SharpenRadius>
         <crs:SharpenDetail>25</crs:SharpenDetail>
         <crs:SharpenEdgeMasking>0</crs:SharpenEdgeMasking>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteAmount>-24</crs:PostCropVignetteAmount>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteMidpoint>50</crs:PostCropVignetteMidpoint>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteFeather>97</crs:PostCropVignetteFeather>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteRoundness>0</crs:PostCropVignetteRoundness>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteStyle>1</crs:PostCropVignetteStyle>
         <crs:PostCropVignetteHighlightContrast>0</crs:PostCropVignetteHighlightContrast>
         <crs:GrainAmount>0</crs:GrainAmount>
         <crs:ColorNoiseReductionDetail>50</crs:ColorNoiseReductionDetail>
         <crs:ConvertToGrayscale>False</crs:ConvertToGrayscale>
         <crs:ToneCurveName>Medium Contrast</crs:ToneCurveName>
         <crs:CameraProfile>Adobe Standard</crs:CameraProfile>
         <crs:CameraProfileDigest>51B4314CF8312BA027EF3FC60481FB35</crs:CameraProfileDigest>
         <crs:HasSettings>True</crs:HasSettings>
To fix the problem you're gonna need to reset your camera raw defaults:
And then be careful when saving new camera raw defaults with the menu item just above, that your image has the camera raw defaults applied to it, except whatever small change you want to be the new default.

Image contains camera White Balance setting; LR 5.5 only shows "As Shot", "Auto", and "Custom"

I have a new, Panasonic DMC-GX7. I shot a bunch of photos as JPGs. When viewing their Exif data using Exiftool, I can clearly see the camera's White Balance setting, as well as the Color Temp Kelvin, WB Red Level, WB Green Level, and WB Blue Level. However, Lightroom 5.5 only shows "As Shot", "Auto", and "Custom" when I click White Balance under Quick Develop on the Library tab or WB under Basic on the Develop tab. Exiftool shows the Exif Version as 0230 and the Panasonic Exif Version as 0405. Is LR looking for the white balance information in some other field? Do I need to configure it somehow for my camera? I am new to LR (but not to image processing), so could use some help figuring this out.

The whole question is not so simple as converting to DNG. Yes DNG is openly documented, yes the file can be read, but that does not mean it can be correctly interpreted by other software in the future and the best you can then do is starting the PP of your images from scratch. Imagine a DNG with LR adjustments that in some years you open the file in another software, possibly non-Adobe. Even if the file can be read it will not look the same, as the Adobe specific developing instructions could not be strictly followed. Even if all software manufactures agreed on a common set of adjustments, let's say everybody had a Highlights slider and a Clarity slider and so on, which is unlikely, the results would still be different as the underlying algorithms would be different.
Disclaimer: I only shoot raw and firmly believe it is the best option, but one must be conscious it has some shortcomings related to the future of our images.

Nokia Lumia 900 Camera White Balance "Fix"

I'm not sure if other people have posted about this but I figured out a pain in the @$$ way of coping with the atrocious white balance on the Nokia Lumia 900. I found that each time you change the white balance setting it will take the first picture with the white balance you choose. After that it resets itself to whatever it wants. It doesn't matter what white balance setting you have saved. So eact picture I have to go into the menu and switch the white balance to something else and then back to the whtie balance I actually want. It's totally unbelievable. C'mon Nokia! Flagship phone?! Really?! Do the engineers actually use the device or do they design it and ship the plans off to Asia and just assume everything turned out okay? The White Balance is malpractice. And before anyone asks I am on Tango with the latest Nokia update installed.

Hi. We are sorry to hear this. Try doing the troubleshooting steps provided on the below link:
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/mobile/support/product/lumia900/troubleshooter/?categories=Phone%20me...
Let us know if this helps or not.

Trying to custom white balance and camera is saying "busy ..please wait"

cant custom white balance my 60d never had this problem before the camera is about a year old and started that today.cant figure this out and tech support didnt sound like they heard of it before.

Thanks for replying.
No, not in Auto mode. I was in Aperature mode.
I have used custom white balance many times before.
I tried the battery removal etc. No luck there.
Removed and reinserted card. No help.
I finally got out of this hangup.
I downloaded all images to PC using the Canon EOS software.
Then I deleted all images from card in camera.
Then when I set up custom white balance again, it worked just as expected.
There was a very brief flash of the "Busy..." message and then into the next step to set .
Have no clue as why this suddenly started.
Maybe struck by stray gamma ray burst
Canon 3Ti, EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II, EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II, 320EX Speedlite

Lumia 928 Front-Cam Pictures are Yellow

Hello,
After the recent Amber update, the phones takes HORRIBLE front-camera photos. The white balance settings don't help at all and everything is given a yellow tint - people look like a cartoon from the Simpsons. Please tell me this is being addressed in an update that won't make me wait until GDR3... I'm going back to school soon and I'd really like to show off the camera quality especially since it is such a beautiful phone. Please fix this, I miss taking photos on my phone.
In addition, the pro-cam gives a yellow tint and softens images in the hi-res review. I thought it would give the full HD review?
Thank you,
- Alex
Attachments:
Lumia 928 Yellow.jpg ‏327 KB
New Image.jpg ‏185 KB

Hi Alex. Please refer to my post in this thread regarding the issue you have: http://discussions.nokia.com/t5/Nokia-Lumia/Nokia-1020-Flash-gives-Yellow-Tint-White-Balance-error/m...
Thanks.

Nokia Lumia 900 Front camera issues

Hi Moderator,
I bought the new Nokia Lumia 900 few days back and today for the first time when I tried using the front camera on one of my video calls it just froze. Thinking that it is software(skype, tango) problem I tried to open regular camera but the front camera wouldnt come up. I called At&t technical support he advised me to switch off the phone, remove sim, re-insert the sim and turn it on. It worked(thought I still dont understand the realtion between sim and camera). But after some time the camera again hung up on me. This time I switched my phone off for 5 minutes and then turned it on it worked. And I cannot do the whole process again and again all day. Is that a known issue or defect in my phone.

I also have a new Lumia 900 with skype installed. I am finding that the experience on wifi is still not as smooth as Facetime on an iPhone. I am also finding that after I use it a second time (my call hung up in the middle), suddenly my front camera will not work correctly anymore. It is showing the image as though it has some kind of a filter applied and there does not appear to be a way to turn or reset this filter. Switching to the front view worked fine. Audio continued to work fine and my phone did not lock up, other then possibly internet delays. I got the front camera to work again by powering down. I think there might still be software issues.

White balance and lightroom

is there anywhere in the program that lists the white balance used for an image? thanks

> Develop mode, top right-hand panel. In degrees and tint tilting, ...
... altho it will not likely agree with your camea setting. Lr (and ACR) use a different Wb "model" (e.g., temp, tint) than a camera's Wb temp.

White balance and RAW

I have been importing RAW files from my Canon S70 for a while, and everything has worked very well. Recently, however, imported RAW files are showing up with the incorrect white balance in iPhoto (different from the one they were taken with on the camera). If I open the same RAW file in any other editor the correct white balance is displayed. Does anyone know how I might fix this?
The weird part is that it didn't used to do this--iPhoto used to display all my RAW files w/ the white balance they were taken with. It was nice because I could just export JPGs directly. Now, however, I have to open them up in another editor and export so they have the correct WB.
Any help would be great, thanks.

Heya Black eyes,
I've never heard of this one before except in an instance where the person was using Photoshop CS to edit the files right after importing them into iPhoto (Photoshop was adding its own colorprofile and throwing off poor iphoto).
Consider removing ~/library/caches, and ~/library/preferences/com.apple.iphoto.plist, and ~/pictures/iphotolibrary/albumdata.xml to the trash.
Restart your computer.
Test iPhoto - does the issue persist?
If so then try creating a new iphoto library by launching iphoto with the option key.
Import from your camera to there.
If it works then your original iphoto library needs to be rebuilt following kbase 107947 and using all 4 options.
If not then I would make sure that the color sync profiles on your system as a whole have not been changed.
Hope that helps!
Cheers!

White balance and B+W image

I understand how I can use the colour information in a raw file to create a B+W image with some considerable depth and variety. In the B&W tab, I can reset the various contributions of the different colours to the image (which is great), and I can use these to create all kinds of filter effects, etc.
There is one thing I'd like to be able to do that LR doesn't seem to allow me. I would like to get a netural (true) reading of the luminance values of the sensor when I'm converting to B+W. I should be able to do that by setting these values to their middle location (option click gives me a "reset"). However, I'd really like to completely neutralise the white balance settings as this setting is still altering the luminance values of the image.
I really want to have a completely neutral representation of the luminance values as recorded by the sensor with no colour bias in how these are rendered, but I don't see how I can do that with the requirement to set a white balance. It really seems to me that LR should have a way to disable WB when converting to B+W, or at least some way to have WB be bypassed (or neutral). I understand that this can be a part of a creative interpretation (so I'm not suggesting it should be disabled). Then I can still use the B+W colour sliders to control the contribution of each colour, which also might include manipulating white balance.
From the reading I've done, I can chose a 6500K (or 5500K, opinions seem to vary about which value is "most neutral") - and I would assume a value of 0 on the red-green tint, but even in this setting, there still seems to be some notion of a weighting being applied to the recorded colour values.
I don't think I can use LAB in Photoshop for this; I could just take the "L" channel, but then I've lost the colour information, and if I were to keep all three channels, then I think I would still have a WB setting to contend with? (Sorry, I don't know much about how LAB works, so maybe I can do it this way)?
So, basically, I want to start with as neutral a rendering into B+W as I can, just as an achromatic sensor (or B+W film) would record the shot, then use the color information in the RAW file from that point.
Thanks!
Bill

So, basically, I want to start with as neutral a rendering into B+W as I can, just as an achromatic sensor (or B+W film) would record the shot, then use the color information in the RAW file from that point.
An achromatic sensor would have no colour information, but it would still have a certain effective WB built into its hue sensitivity. Same for B&W film, or for any variants on that such as the orthochromatic film which preceded that. Early movie film required lurid coloured makeup (green lipstick IIRC) for the actors, to make their mouths show up in a way that seemed natural in B&W terms. Then the film stock improved, became "panchromatic".
IMO you are misusing the word "neutral" here, since all photographic techniques are carefully designed, developed and then honed by testing so as to correspond credibly to human vision. So it's a matter of choosing among the many representations that are available, one that WE (using some standardised average) consider subjectively believable or natural-looking. All cameras or all Raw conversion impose a contrast curve as standard, which can be varied to taste, but there is no greater "neutrality" to one or another setting for that curve, except what WE choose to invest in that. Same for WB.
If you wished to define a central-weighted averaging-metered shot in LR "neutral" tone curve (under the 2012 process version), using Adobe Standard camera profile, with all other settings at Adobe defaults, Daylight WB, you would not be alone in considering that some kind of an - at least useful - idea of an un-fiddled-with starting point ... merely because, this has not been overtly individualised for a given picture. However any other setup that you can apply consistently, would be an equally valid starting point.
This is like the reliability of witnesses in court - we do not require them to be omniscient and infallible, and would be more (not less) suspicious of the testimony if there was any claim to that; we only require them to be candid, without applying bias or distortion or pretending to be other than they are.
The Raw data is not conventionally human viewable - or at least, we know that we are looking at an artificiality however we make it viewable, and this cannot be a "better" picture per se (whatever it is) without having considered, "better" for what?
If you instead wanted to define a pattern-metered exposure, Camera Standard, auto tone (assuming that worked - grin), AutoWB, apply auto mix to first B&W conversion... as your "vanilla", you might in truth better reflect the highly adaptable nature of human vision... and more particularly, of the kind of camera you picked, as having a pictorial character which seems more natural to you. If you consistently think ALL your out-of-camera images need some kind of correction, then that is YOUR normal. Even "vanilla" does not taste of nothing, it is distinctively sweet and fragrant; but in a way that we become so used to, that it can eventually pass our notice without comment.
A daylight balanced WB picture of a candle-lit scene represents an odd variation on human perceptions, but so does a perfectly WB-corrected one - since our experience of candle-lighting includes the awareness of how much what we see is "warmed", which might be why we have chosen that kind of illumination. The camera WB, and/or the B&W conversion we might make, or (for example) our decision to use tungsten-balanced rather than daylight-balanced film (or a corrective colour filter) to represent it, reflects the same perceptual relativism.
To paraphrase Pontius Pilate, "what is neutrality?" (applies noise reduction, as a digital equivalent of washing hands).

Lumia 810 front camera white balance and flicker

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