Lumina 920 battery problem

I am posting a new message because I don't see any that seem to have addressed my specific issue.
I am now on my second Lumina 920 and it is experiencing the exact same issue that caused me to trade in my first phone. I am hoping someone has had a similar, software related issue that can be solved. What happens is this:
The phone functions normally most of the time and has generally very good battery life (I have turned off things like tap & send, bluetooth, etc). I use it almost exclusively for web browsing (IE 10), email and texting. Almost no phone, no games, no apps, no navigation software. With no apparent cause (no new apps opened), the phone becomes very, very hot at the top. At the same time, the battery begins draining down extremely rapidly. This continues even if the phone is turned off. If it's plugged in it registers as charging, but still depletes faster than it can charge. If I reset the phone several times it stops, slowly cools back down, then functions normally again.
Again, this happened with the first phone so I took it back to AT&T and they gave me a different phone which, after a couple week or so, began doing the exact same thing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hello ExSeal,
Welcome to our community. You may refer to this link: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/mobile/support/faq/?action=singleTopic&topic=FA141361. This link will work regardless of your location. You may also try rebooting your phone by pressing and holding the power and the volume down keys simultaneously for 10-15 seconds.
Keep us posted.

Similar Messages

Nokia Lumia 920 Battery estimated time remaining m...

This morning when I checked the battery info, it was at 39% with 31 days and 5 hours left…
So I checked it again closer to 1 PM and found it remaining at 39% with 38 days and 7 hours left.
Now the time is 10 PM and it still says 39%... The estimated time remaining says more than 51 days.
Time since last charged says 2 days 14 hours (which sounds accurate as I recall myself charging it about 2.5 days ago)
I have attached 3 screenshots of what I see. Check the time stamps. They were taken just few mins apart.
I’m assuming it’s a software bug, not a hardware issue…
Has anyone ever noticed any similar battery performance indicator issues? Just curious to know…
I’ve seen a lot of posts that says the battery would not last for few days. I have experienced the same myself. It used to drain very fast at the beginning. Couldn’t make it to last more than 24 hours after a “moderate” amount of usage . Yet noticed a gradual improvement with each use. Finally came to a point where I could manage to keep it for about 3 days or so in a row.
I do recall myself leaving the phone plugged into the charger for an extra hour or so… before unplugging. Since then I have made 26 calls, longest been 47 minutes. My emails are configured to be checked twice a day, have received about 35 text messages, accessed about 7 static web pages, taken a few pictures, one GPS usage for guidance (about 15 mins long) and used a few other apps. At home always connected to wi-fi. At times I see it been connected to 4G and the other times to 3G.
It almost looks like that estimate is just an extrapolation of the time since the last charge. Not reliable…
Would this “bug” kill my batter for good any sooner or would it degrade my battery life eventually?
Wonder if I should be worried… Few days ago the phone completely died. I thought the battery was dead, yet could not turn it on after charging it for 30 mins. Then read a few posts and tried a restart with just the volume lower button and the on/off button. Still wouldn’t turn on. Then I tried all three button (those 2 buttons and the camera button), which brought it back to life. All my custom installed apps remained the same.
Nokia N95 8GB was way reliable than this one.
Thax
tr
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Still 39% and now it says 54 days. I love my lumina 920. Now I love it more. I will post back when my battery needs a recharge.
Would u mind over charging ur battery for one or two hours and see if it gives similar results please?
tr

Lumina 920 Limited Bluetooth functionality with 20...

I've recently acquired a Lumina 920 with Windows Phone 8. I can pair the phone with the car (or car with phone) just fine. I can also make and receive calls, but the phonebook will not sync with the car. This is a deal breaker for me, as I've had multiple IPhone/Android phones that handle this seemingly common operation without any trouble at all.
As an experiment, I paired this phone with another car, and the phone book DOES sync. What I get is a message appears on the phone asking for permission to share contacts. This does not happen with my car, however.
I've poked around the settings, but can't seem to find anything that influences this behavior one way or another.
Any ideas?

There may be a problem of incompatibility between your phone and your car. You can check this by visiting the Jaguar Bluetooth connectivity centre at the link below.
http://www.jaguar.com/gb/en/owner_support/bluetooth
Ray.

Yet another 920 battery issue; detailed mini-test

I have been having trouble with my 920 battery, but I waited the two weeks for the battery to "condition" assuming there really is such a thing. And, now my son received his 920, and he is complaining about his horrible battery life, too. So, I decided to do a test last night while driving home, and this morning when the phone was fully charged & not used. Former about the recharge speed while driving, and latter about idle discharge.
**** This morning:
7:28am: Phone is unplugged off the wall, at 100%. LTE, NFC, Bluetooth enabled, but no NFC or BT connections made. Email set to "As Items Arrive". Nothing running in the background as verified by holding down the BACK button; only the START screen. The "background tasks allowed" apps are basically the defaults, including NokiaDrive; but none of them are actually shown as "running" when you hold the BACK button.
8:30am: 92%. During the last hour, the phone has not even been switched on, so even the screen hadn't come on. 8% loss in 1hr?! Only a few emails had arrived, but not looked at.
9:19am: 81%. Again, no use of the phone in the meantime. It has just been lying on the countertop. No phone/data features used except those used by the phone in the background. Almost 20% off in 2hrs!!
Basically, with the default features of the phone, after two weeks of "battery conditioning", while sitting on the countertop, starting from a 100% charge, not being used for anything actively, my phone seems to drain at 10%/hr.
In the meantime, my iPhone4 went from 100% to 100%.
**** Last night:
I was driving home for about 30min. Before plugging the 920 into my 1amp USB car charger, it was at 57%. At the end of my drive, it was at 59%. That is 4%/hr recharge rate while the phone is using 10%/hr!
**** Also:
Only anecdotally: It seems because of the difference between recharge/discharge speeds, when I use NokiaDrive while my 920 is plugged into the car charger, I still arrive at my destination with a *significant* battery loss. There were days when I left home at 100%, drove for 30-40mins, and arrived at 57%. Totally unacceptable.
**** NOKIA: Given all the complaints on the web & here on your own boards, I think it is time for you to announce something publicly, not just as a post here, but as a News article & email to all your registered users. Otherwise, you'll see many people switching away from your flagship phone. This is not just a few people running into the problem because they are doing this or that.
Using Nokia 920 running on Windows Phone 8

Worth reporting: After the phone drained by itself very quickly yesterday, I charged it again on the wall to 100%. It actually charged somewhat quickly. I don't have numbers, but it "felt" like 4hrs to full charge.
This morning, over the first hour off the wall, under the same conditions as before (LTE, BT, NFC all turned on, no background apps running), even with slightly more phone/data usage than yesterday, the drain was only 1%. It went from 100% to 99% in one hour, even though I drove around with it in the car, not on a charger, thus moved from cell tower to cell tower, from WiFi to WiFi, receiving & responding to email & text, none of which was happening yesterday. In other words, it performed about 10 times better this morning after full drain & recharge, even in the face of slightly increased usage.
So, maybe there really is something to recalibrating the li-ion battery by draining it fully and charging it up again. Talking to my son last night, he also said that after his phone drained fully a few times, not on purpose btw, it is behaving better now.
Of course, why Nokia would ship these phones with less than optimally calibrated batteries is beyond me. It feels like that is something that should be done at the factory, before the phone enters the box and gets to the consumer, as opposed to being part of the user's initial out-of-the-box experience.
Using Nokia 920 running on Windows Phone 8

Lumina 920 - 'MS Outlook' or 'Office 365' or 'Outl...

I have owned the Nokia Lumina 920 for a few months now. Many issues and (too) many hours spent learning about and trying to use / fix / work around, the operating system.
Lots of problems still to deal with but we'll start with a simple question, this is my first post.
The Nokia Lumina 920 web page states and shows pictures of, the device running MS Office.
Our new Nokia Lumia family comes with full versions of Microsoft Office and Outlook. Create and edit PowerPoint, Excel and Word documents with ease wherever you are with seamless sync.
This is not so with my device. It runs 'Office 365' (as a kind of file explorer substitute) giving me Word, Excel and Power Point, plus lets me use Adobe Readder(!) Office 365 does not let me view pictures, per the Nokia Help file. The 920 runs Windows 8 'apps' allowing me to access the Mail, People and Calendar parts of my MS account.
The Nokia Lumina 920 web page shows the (MS Office Suite) 'four petal flower' symbol (with Word, Excel files beneath it) whereas my phone shows the (Office 365) '3D Square' symbol.
So, my question. I absolutely do not have Microsoft Office (suite) nor Microsoft Office Outlook on my Lumina 920. Also, there is definately no way to 'seamless sync' (or any sort of sync) between Microsoft Office Outlook (on my PC) and the mail/calendar/people functions on my phone. Is the Nokia statement above wrong or is my phone messed up?
For the record I know about MS Hotmail, MS Live and now Outlook.com accounts. I know about Hotmail, now Outlook, Connector. Yes, I have the latest updates installed and yes, I have trawled these forums before posting. No, I am not using an exchange server.

I would suggest you educate yourself on Office 365, which is far from 'just a file explorer version of office'
Outlook, by design, is supposed to work through an exchange server with support for standard POP and IMAP servers. The fact many people privately use the mail client outside it's designed specs is another matter. When used as intended it syncs mail, contacts, calendar and tasks perfectly fine through an exchqange server. Recent versions of Office have included a connector for use with Hotmail which offers nearly identical connectivity.
Office on my Lumia phone handles my word, excel and powerpoint files just fine. I can create (or edit) all of these.
Your post is basically a lot of words not saying or asking anything, maybe post actual questions to which we may be able to provide actual answers.The one you sem to ask is answered many, many time before on the forum. I sense you are looking for a USB based sync option which is not supported by default although there are 3rd party options offering this.
Windows Phone offers full sync with Outlook and Office, just not using an USB connection. I have all my Office docs in Skydrive and can access them from either my PC or my phone.
Click on the blue Star Icon below if my advice has helped you or press the 'Accept As Solution' link if I solved your problem..

Reception / Battery problems with iPhone 3GS after upgrading to iOS 4.2.1

There are major reception and battery problems with iPhone 3GS after upgrading to iOS 4.2.1.
I can not believe that Apple did not test this for major bugs like this one is.
I am a business user and can not effort to have bad reception. Apple wants to gain in the business clients... I never had this with my former BlackBerrys!
I need a reliable phone not a play thing like this is right now, it just needs it to work propely. And if a major bug like this comes along, fix it immediately. After the iPhone4 story, now this...incredible! Going back to my reliable BlackBerry! It just ain't reliable and takes forever to fix a problem.

I have the same issue after iOS 4.2.1 update. I am using iPhone 3GS officially unlocked by Apple. I tried using different SIM cards and both carriers show same problem when using phone in 3G mode. Phone falls back to EDGE mode showing 'E' from '3G' at start. I have reset the phone and rebooted several times and moved to different cell areas in the city just to verify the problem.
I had no such issues earlier. I also have Nokia E71 which shows full signal and has no such issues.
I have posted the bug on apple iphone feedback page. I hope they Apple will fix the problem and test the release properly on all models before releasing to public.

Solved my iPhone 5 Battery Problems: Maybe it can help you!

Hi every one, I saw many topics regarding battery problems with the iPhone 5. I responded to one discussion describing what I did to solve the iPhone 5 battery dying fast on me. So I thought I'd make a discussion here to help out other users with the same problem.
I would have 25-30% drop with in the hour and all I did was text a couple of my friends. I was using an iPhone 4 for the longest time, and on that phone I was able to watch videos, listen to music and use all the other features of the phone. The battery still lasted me the whole day, I was getting worried that I wouldn't be able to use the iPhone 5 the same with out it dying on me fast.
My friend suggested draining the battery and then charging the phone to see if any improvements were seen. I did that and I saw a small change in the battery strength. I drained the battery two more times, and that is when I saw a huge difference.
I use my Phone as my iPod when I work out, and I run continuous music on it for 1.5-2 hours straight, along with sending texts to my friends. In this duration I would only use 15-20% which was a huge improvement from before. I would say that the battery life was on par with my iPhone 4 battery! It is such a relief, now I can use my iPhone 5 to it's fullest potential without having to worry it'll die on me fast.
I recommend other iPhone 5 users try draining their batteries a couple of times before charging as well if they are experiencing problems.
Hope this helps!
Dylan

I would let the battery completely die before I would charge it again. I would keep 3g off and only turn it on if I'm going to use it and turn it off again. Because the phone uses more power for the 3g/4g that the battery dies even faster.
I text a lot to friends so I'm constantly texting through out the day and when I work out continously run music on it for close to 2hours. It would only drain 15-20% of the battery, which really is a huge improvement.
I also use Siri quite often through wifi and it barely uses any battery power. Try letting the phone die until it turns off a couple of times before you charge it. That is what I did before a friend requested doing that after I was getting fraustrated with the battery power.

IPod touch Battery Problems Since iOS 7 was installed last year.

Hello, I've had recurring battery problems with my iPod touch since the iOS 7 update was installed, and I find myself having to charge my iPod touch (5th Generation) a lot more frequently since I installed this update.
On iOS 6, I had never experienced any problems with the iPod touch's battery, as I was able to let the battery drain down completely, and let it charge for 4 hours (recommended). After the iPod touch was fully charged for 4 whole hours, I was able to unplug the lightning cable, and the iPod touch on its own would last a few days to at least a week or two weeks.
On iOS 7, since it saw its general release on the 18th September last year, I have found that the iPod's battery has drained so bad, that it dies too quickly, and when I put the iPod touch on charge, in almost an hour, the iPod touch tells me that it is 100% charged. However, when I take the iPod touch off its charge after it fully charges for that hour, it quickly drains down again.
I have gone through the standard procedure of restoring my iPod touch to its factory settings, and I have seen absolutely no improvement on the battery life whatsoever. I mainly back up whatever is on my iPod touch (I back up pictures, videos and also transfer updates that I have installed for certain apps onto iTunes), though I have seen how some people have backed up the data on their iPod's or iPhones, only they find their iDevice draining so quickly.
Even turning off certain features in the Settings app to improve the battery life doesn't help, as there is almost no difference that solves the problems I'm currently having with the iPod touch's battery.
I recently heard about the free iPhone battery replacement program which is now available, so I'm starting to worry whether I have to pay for a new replacement battery for my iPod touch.
Your help in this matter would be gratefully appreciated.
Many kind regards,
Alex Smithson
Message was edited by: Alex169853

I mainly charge the iPod touch itself for four hours and it still doesn't make a difference. I've had my iPod touch for almost 2 years and since I installed iOS 7, it still doesn't make a difference.
I was wondering, if the article you have provided doesn't sort the problems with the battery out, is there another alternative??
Your help and advice is most appreciated.
Many kind regards,
Alex Smithson

Macbook Battery Problem

Hi all, this is my first post, but something weird happened to my macbook that I have to share with you.
Ok, my Macbook Core Duo 2.0GHz (1st generation) have had no problem during its first and half year. Then I left the notebook sitting at home for one month as I was away on business. Came back, the machine won't start, used AC adaptor and showed the battery not charging, "x" and everything. My warranty expired, so I bought a new battery. Once I got that, it worked fine for almost 7 months.
Another business trip left my macbook for 1 month, I came back, the battery is dead again!!! So I went to apple support and bought another new battery. This time I installed it at home, and it doesn't charge what-so-ever. I tried everything from SMU reset, PMU reset, P-RAM reset. NOTHING WORKED.
So I took a friend's macbook battery to try, and it worked! I can charge that battery with my macbook, and my battery won't charge on his macbook. So scientifically I thought its the battery defect. I went to Apple Care and they say they will replace it for me, but think that it should be my macbook's problem. Must be the Logic Board, I explained why I disagree, and that the battery came with only one LED blinking when I got home to charge, the current was already too low to charge.
Anyways, I was able to buy a second-hand battery really cheap but with limited life-span and use it until my replacement battery returns. Everything seem fine and I can charge it up to 100% although it will only last me 50-mins, still not bad, right?
I was reluctant to completely drain this battery now since I am afraid it will drop to zero and won't recharge like the other ones.
I am using Boot Camp, and Vista as well as OS X. Suddenly today, two days after I bought the 2nd hand battery, I was using Vista to show my friend the battery problem is fixed. But suddenly out of nowhere the battery dropped from 95% charged to 0% in seconds. It shuts down automatically, and the battery was flashing one LED indicating it's dying.
I started back in Mac OS X and found the charger able to recharge, but it fixed at 0% for 20 minutes. I thought I am screwed and went out for a smoke. I came back to see the battery charging back to 5% and then slowly to 10%, and 20%, suddenly it went back to 85% in seconds, and then 100%. I try to unplug it and it seemed fine. I left it on without the adapter for 20 minutes, the battery drain normally, to 70% (it's fine considering the battery was 2nd hand) My friend thought I should try to switch back to Vista to see if the same thing will occur. So I did, and before the Vista screen came up, the macbook blacked out. I checked the battery indicator and it's flashing one LED again!!!
So I switched back to Mac side and re-do the charging, this time it took longer to get back to +90%, I thought this is normal, 'cause I did use the battery longer on the Mac side before switching to Vista for the test.
I thought to myself, why Vista drained my battery, and then I remember the first battery that died on me was about the time I switched the PC side to Vista. Prior to that, the PC side was using XP. The second time it died it was in Vista as well. I also remember I wanted to reduce the size of my PC partition, so I trimmed off unnecessary features like hibernation by (Powercfg -h off). It saved 2G in size but it may be causing some problem to the charging circuit for the Mac-hardware??? Don't know for sure.
So I erased my Vista partition, and re-installed XP. Since then I tried both sides without adaptor, usually for 10-minutes or less, and no sudden dropped to 0% occurred since.
Everything else is working fine with my macbook, except the power features. Right now at least I can charge the battery, but I am always worried about when or IF the battery will dropped off and kill itself.
I am waiting for the replacement battery to return from APPLE, and hopefully when it returns, my Macbook will be able to recognize the DEFAULT low-charge of a new battery. I'm still not sure if my macbook is defective, and if it did killed the first battery replacement they gave me a few days ago. If it did kill a decent battery, will it kill this new replacement as well??
I know for a fact that the reason why the machine won't charge the battery is because the current of the battery has become too low for the machine to be able to charge it. If the current becomes lower, the "X" will occur suggesting that the machine doesn't even recognize it's a battery. But what I want to know is what caused the battery to drop to such a low current if I turned off the macbook during storage.
Sorry for the length of this post, but I have to be clear on all the details if I want help, I suppose. Right now my question is (1) Why is this occuring?? (2) Am I right in assuming that by removing Vista with XP, the problem will not repeat?? (3) Is it likely for any new or 2nd hand functioning battery to drop to the state of the other battery any time soon?? (4) Am I doing proper care for my Macbook, and what should I do in the future to avoid the same problem from occuring??

gpotts,
Thanks again, here's my battery profile: (keep in mind this is the 2nd hand battery I am profiling) BTW, something happened when I was doing this message, I left the notebook on for about 20 minutes, it dropped from +90% to 48%, macbook prompted me that the battery is running low. I plugged the adaptor and it went back to +95% within minutes...
Good thing is, I haven't seen the sudden drop to 0% ever since I removed Vista, and also I am able to charge my battery everytime I try now, no more "NOT CHARGING" or "X" indication.
Any clues??? Thanks in advance.
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number: DP-ASMB013-34cf-** <Edited by Moderator>
Manufacturer: DP
Device name: ASMB013
Pack Lot Code: 0001
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0102
Hardware Revision: 0300
Cell Revision: 0100
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 1533
Fully charged: No
Charging: Yes
Full charge capacity (mAh): 1597
Health Information:
Cycle count: 349
Condition: Good
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 466
Voltage (mV): 12597
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 60
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 60
Automatic Restart On Power Loss: No
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Wake On LAN: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 2
Wake On AC Change: No
Wake On Clamshell Open: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Reduce Brightness: Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed: No
AC Charger Information:
Connected: Yes
Charging: Yes

Internal battery problem error 601

while startup laptop message comes internal battery problem change battery. error 601. what to do now??

AshuSharma wrote:
while startup laptop message comes internal battery problem change battery. error 601. what to do now??
Hi,
There is a solved thread on this page about this error. The solution is to replace the battery because its storage capacity is low. The right part number can be found in a maintenance and service guide. Go to Support and Drivers page, enter your model and look in User Guides section.
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Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

HP Pavilion dv7t-4100 Intel Core i7-720QM 1.6GHz 6GB, battery problem for newly purched Laptop, only

HP Pavilion dv7t-4100 Intel Core i7-720QM 1.6GHz 6GB, battery problem for newly purched Laptop, only giving 45 min to 1 h
timings, please resolve the problem

Hi,
Be sure that the battery is fully charge then try the following:
Hit the ESC key after power on to bring up the Start up Menu and then select System Diagnostics (F2). Now run the battery test.
If the battery is OK then try the below suggestion:
Go to the Control Panel ----> Power Options and then select the HP Power Manager on the left column. You can then select one of the power plans and see the effects on battery life.
Depending on the power plan selected and what applications your are running, you may not get more than one hour on battery.
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MiFi 4510L Battery problem

Ours MiFi 5410L has battery problems (draining when plugged in). I've called verizon, but they try to get my to buy yet another *** device. I have to use this one because it has a plug for an external antenna, which I have to have in order to even get service here.
With mine, I have to charge the battery in another device, then transfer the fully charged battery to the crapola device and that's the only way I can get it to work. It won't charge while it's plugged in and I had to laugh when someone said to take the battery out altogether and just leave it "plugged in". That does NOTHING. You can't run this *** without the battery in it. The charger is fine, it works on my other mifi cards (we have 3 ) and the battery is brand new, fresh out of the package less than a week ago. It's our 5th battery, btw.
Plain and simple- the device is TRASH. Buy something else through amazon so you aren't stuck in a dang contract.
Comments edited as required by the Terms of Service.
Message was edited by: Admin Moderator

If you charge a battery too much, over time it will cause it to swell and that will not allow the battery to hold charge like it normally does and it will eventually destroy the battery. What I would recommend doing is Charging the MiFi fully, and then when it gets really or low actually let it die completely, plug it back up and put it on a full re-charge. That would be the best option to get the longest life out of your battery.
hope this answers your question!

Anybody that has ever had, or still have battery problems....

Please join me in finding a solution.
Lets all converse in this thread about battery problems. I Have noticed many many many battery and power problems going unresolved in this discussion forum and I think if we all get organized into one thread and work together we may find a solution.
If you haven't read of my battery and power problem before here is the run down.
-battery won't charge(0% and then eventually "No Batteries Availiable")
-Battery is NEW. It is valid(works in other iBooks).
-Its not the DC-in board. No, no... I replaced that and it did nothing, it probably won't help you either.
-I've done all the pointless stuff.(Resetting PMU, PRAM, NVRAM, Deep Reset PMU)
-Battery is Charged(Used my friends iBook). Yet my iBook will not power on from the battery.
Now. I know many iBook owners are having the same problem. I have worked countless hours on this problem and I am never going to give up.
Now throughout searching countless forums of Battery Problems I have gathered some observations.(All these observations are only taken from cases similar to mine)
-They have the same problems I have stated.
-All the Resets in the world don't help them
-Some of them mention a noise coming from the iBook.
-Some of them mention buying third party power Adapters.
-The thread usually ends with them asking more questions and replies never come so they give up.
-They all usually go unresolved or Solved in the case that they just buy a new laptop.
So taking that I am pretty sure that this problem needs to be solved. I have been giving it a good try but without information I just cannot get too far.
Any of you people with the same problem as me... We should all compare certain statistics and symptoms to see if we can zero in on what the problem is.
These are my suspicions.
I purchased My Power-Adapter from Ebay. It looked legit and everything and it provides the iBook with power pretty well. Yet I stumbled across something. It says on the Power Adapter that it is a 65(watt) Power Adapter. But when I check in the System Profiler, This is what it reads:
AC Charger Information:
AC Charger (Watts): 45
Connected: Yes
Now why would the Power Adapter say 65(watts) but when I check the stats on my iBook it receives 45(watts). I have checked all the stats of these iBooks and I know that they need 65(watts) to function properly. Some people say 45w will power an iBook fine but I think this is why the battery won't charge. The power Adapter I bough online clearly stated that it will work correctly on my model and it Even says 65w on the adapter. Remember the faulty batteries? Could people be possibly making faulty power adapters and selling them now too? My friend has moved so I cannot test his "Apple" adapter to see if it works.
I also think this may be the cause of these processor sounds(That are stupidly diagnosed as HD failures) that some people like me get. I found out if I turn the processor down to "reduced" the sound goes away. Maybe the "whizzing" sound could be a capacitor being overworked so it can provide the processor with power or the processor itself but I really think these issues are related.
In saying that... This is what I want. Anybody out there that has the same(or similar) problems as I do, please do this:
-State the issues you are having with your iBook.
-Go to System Profiler and Under Hardware click Power, copy all of those statistics in the right pane and paste them in your reply.
-Say what kind of iBook(or Powerbook) you have.
-Say what kind of battery and what kind of Power adapter you have.
-Ask for other statistics that you think might help you.
-If you have any ideas of what the problem is please tell me.
-And if you already know a solution please tell us all.
We can all tackle this problem if we work together.

I can't speak to all of your problems, but there are a few things that may help.
+I purchased My Power-Adapter from Ebay. It looked legit and everything and it provides the iBook with power pretty well. Yet I stumbled across something. It says on the Power Adapter that it is a 65(watt) Power Adapter. But when I check in the System Profiler, This is what it reads:+
+AC Charger Information:+
+AC Charger (Watts): 45+
+Connected: Yes+
+Now why would the Power Adapter say 65(watts) but when I check the stats on my iBook it receives 45(watts). I have checked all the stats of these iBooks and I know that they need 65(watts) to function properly. Some people say 45w will power an iBook fine but I think this is why the battery won't charge. The power Adapter I bough online clearly stated that it will work correctly on my model and it Even says 65w on the adapter.+
You are incorrect about this. The adapter that shipped with iBooks, initially, was a 45-watt model. 45 watts is all it takes to properly run the iBook and charge its battery. The iBook registers the adapter as 45 watts because the iBook only takes the amount of power that it needs. A Powerbook needs the full 65 watts in order to run the computer and charge the battery simultaneously.
Did you replace your DC-in board yourself? Has it ever worked since the DC-in board was replaced? Are you sure you got it plugged in properly?
Yours is acting exactly the way my husband's did when his DC-in board needed to be replaced. That is, it would work from a fully charged battery, but would not charge the battery. A DC-in board replacement was the fix for his, and sounds like that would be the fix for yours, too. If you did it yourself before, maybe you need to either try it again (you could have received another bad one), or send it off to have someone else do it.
Good luck.

ThinkPad Edge 13" sudden BATTERY problem

Hi, i am starting to be desperate, therefore i registered myself here. Let me explain my story.
My computer is now almost 2 years old and I have less than 14 days till the warranty expires (I am from Europe), but I'd like to avaid this, because i really need my computer now, not after 30 days, which is by law designated time till which it must be returned to me back. I did not have to use my computer outside home for about 3 month, so I was using that during that period as desktop computer, where i set in lenovo power manager, that all energy should be taken from the AC adaptor letting the battery to deplete itself in its own pace. But i have taken my computer to the libraries lately and i have experienced sudden battery problems. Let me describe them in order as it happened.
1) battery shows that that it has more than lets say 20% of power, but windows power manager warns me that battery capacity is in reality 6% and i need to use my AC adaptor now. after second even lenovo power manager recognize the fact that battery is almost depleted. first i did not pay attention, i thought it was some temporary bug and it will not be repeated again.
2) unfortunatelly it was, therefore i updated lenovo power manager to current version (6.11), which realized that current battery capacity was not 54Wh (as before update), but 47Wh. Therefore I resetted battery gauge statting that battery capacity is now slightly over 51Wh. For couple of days everything was as it should (probably, because i always connected AC adaptor around 10% of remaining battery).
3) now my problem appeared again, though battery depleted naturally and slowly to 10%, after that windows power manager popped again showing, that battery is 6% and I need to use my AC adaptor. after connecting to electricity whole W7 froze for a while. I rather restarted system after which I realized, that battery info is wrong again - original capacity of battery since i have this laptop was over 62Wh, now is slightly over 57Wh (this is something new i have not realized this 2 days ago, when i was doing the reset, and I'd bet i happened just now) and current battery capacity rose back to 54Wh (as I said before, after the last reset it was just 51Wh).
I attemted to do Battery test through Toolbox, but system refuse to run this test (even after resterting system) stating "Cannot run".
For a while i thought i have this problem which requires updating battery firmware: http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/diagnose-and-fix/detail.page?DocID=HT003431
but FRU number of my laptop is 42T4813 and is not in the list of batteries requireing update.
Sorry for long text, and quality of English (I am not native speaker), any help is welcome. Thank you in advance.
PS: i always install updates throught System update, my BIOS should be therefore up to date, i also Lenovo Power manager does not offer any update for battery firmware.

After todays restart original baterry capacity is restored back to 62+Wh, But current capacity is still 54Wh, higher than after last battery reset. I am upgrading to higher version of Power Manager.

Another one of those battery problems...so scared

Hey all,
I know that many people are posting battery problems and I think I have a similar one...I just don't know if apple will listen to me. My 15" mbp shuts down at around 45% charge for no reason. I applied the update that apple provided but to no avail.
Unfortunately, here are my stats:
Battery Installed: Yes
First low level warning: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 3824
Remaining Capacity (mAh): 3824
Amperage (mA): 239
Voltage (mV): 12604
Cycle Count: 529
It seems i have decent capacity but the cycle count indicates that the battery is old (about 13 months). So what do you guys think? Do I have a chance of getting a free replacement with the protection plan? If there is a possibility, what tactic should I use-you know- call apple, mac genius, what should I tell them. The problem has been bothering me for a while and it seems to be getting worse.
If I probably won't get the replacement, can someone recommed some good alternatives you found to the default batteries, preferably those with a greater capacity/battery life. Keep in mind, I'm a college student so any money I can save would mean a good month's worth of food that isn't crackers and ramen.
thanks,
any reply would be greatly appreciated.

Unfortunately, I really doubt Apple will give you a free replacement battery. Apple specifies that a battery should maintain 80% of it's original full charge capacity for 300 cycles. As you point out, you have 529 cycles on your battery - it's had a good life! But Apple will tell you (correctly) that batteries do wear out, and that's what is happening to yours.
So, you either need to live with the poor run time that comes with an elderly battery, or purchase a new one. It's just one of the extra costs of ownership, like buying gas for your car.
If you check on Google, there may be slightly less expensive 3rd party batteries out there. If you go that route, given the problems many people have had with these batteries (which Apple has acknowledged), be sure you trust the vendors warranty. Else, you may be better off just buying direct from Apple.
Wish I had better news, but I hope this at least sets your mind at ease a bit...(except for the $ part, of course...).

Lumina 920 battery problem

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