Mac Pro 2010 Won't boot after adding Ram

Just got my Mac Pro 2.8 a few days ago. My 4x2 8Gig Crucial Ram upgrade arrived today along with my SIIG FireWire400 PCIe card. It seems as though the Mac Pro won't boot with both the Crucial Ram and the Samsung Ram that came stock with the Mac Pro. I kept 2 of the 1 gig Samsung chips and put in the 2 4Gig Chips from Crucial. They are all the DDR3 1066 240 pin chips. I've moved the 4Gig chips to slots 1 & 2 and I've tried them in slots 3 & 4. I've moved the 1Gig Samsung chips accordingly. The power light on the Mac Pro blinks continuously when they are both installed. I even tried removing the new SIIG FireWire 400 card but that doesn't change anything. It seems as though combining these two types of ram just doesn't jive. Any ideas? I'm dragging the tower from queens to SoHo tomorrow to let the Apple Genius gang have a look at it.

FYI, when I did install the Registered or "buffered" 8 Gigs of Crucial Ram by themselves the system did boot up normally and a memory notification popped up and said that my ram was in the "correct" or "suggested" configuration. I can't remember the exact phrasing but the OS definitely gave me a thumbs up. So now I am trolling the web trying to find out if the Registered memory is ok. I'm fine to just have 8gigs for now. But don't want to jeopardize the stability of my system. So, Is it ok to use Registered memory and if it is, am I using a lesser quality of ram in doing so?

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2009 Mac Pro Won't Boot after adding RAM (Crash-Keeps rebooting)

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The hexadecimal stuff all over the screen is NOT a RAM panic. It is complaining about a USB problem and a caldigit driver.
The box near the center of the screen is saying you have the modules installed in the wrong slots.
Take it slow and simple. Install one module in the lowest-numbered slot on each side and work your way up on the RAM modules. You want to end up with the biggest modules in the lowest-numberd slots.
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It wouldn't be much of a lock if you could circumvent it with advice from a forum.
Obviously a valid point, although possibly somewhat niaive where forums are concerned (no disrespect intended).
It was more an expression of frustration than anything else, to be honest, though. It's kind of absurd that this happened following a simple hardware upgrade. Most people I know aren't even aware they can set a firmware password, so basically what it means is don't upgrade a machine that's intented to be upgraded (I'm aware of the hyperbole here).
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thanks
Richard

Hello Grant
>
Hardware sets the fans to maximum, and only properly-operating software resets them to "normal levels. If you have fans at normal levels, some software is running.
>
That's what I was thinking, but I'm not even getting the startup chime, and the HD sounds like it's powered on but not doing anything.
EDITED TO ASK: what software could be running at this point? Nothing has loaded from the HD, that much I know...
>Do you still have CPU A or CPU B failure lights?
No. I have just one original processor installed in the CPU A socket. No lights of any kind. (Even if I install an original processor in CPU B, I still occasionall will get a CPU B FAIL light, so I'm thinking I damaged the socket somehow...the light will not be consistent, but it's always the CPU B FAIL light - the light only turns on some of the time (and stays on once lit) - so that's why I pulled the B processor and am simply trying to boot with A alone)
>Do you have a flashing power on light, indicating failed or no memory?
Again, no. I can "make" the light flash by removing the memory riser, but when I re-install the riser, the light stops blinking (with power off during removal/install, of course!)
>Have you done the more severe SMC reset with the reset button OR:
unplug AC power.
Yes. I have used the SMC reset button 3 or 4 times. I unplugged the machine and left it (with coin battery installed) for an hour. The last thing I did last night was that I left it unplugged overnight (with coin battery removed). I have yet to attempt a power on this morning. I will do so and report back.
>
unplug AC power.
Press and hold power-on for a quarter minute to drain the power capacitors.
Re-plug AC power.
wait a quarter minute.
then power on.
>
Haven't done that one yet. (Didnt know about it!). Will try that second today, after attempting the initial boot up after leaving it unplugged all night. (fingers crossed) Of course, the capacitors are likely discharged now after being unplugged and battery-less all night, but you never know...
>Many things have to get synchronized after a CPU swap. It may take a half-dozen reset attempts before everything lines up again and goes.
Thanks for the hope. I will keep trying.
>
I recommmend you remove ALL distractions: all drives, all graphics cards, all PCI cards, all USB devices -- until you get the chime nothing else matters.
Already have done so. Last night I was down to 1 original CPU (CPU A), one memory riser with 1 set of original 1GB DIMMS, 1 bootable HD and nothing else (not even a keyboard/mouse - literally NOTHING else). Will keep trying in this configuration. All I really wanted last night was to hear the "bong" at power on!
Will do a bit more troubleshooting today and will report back.
Thank you!
Richard
Message was edited by: Richard Williams Jr

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hi,
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Clone should be a must and easy to do and learn (learn by doing! 2)
6800 would 'qualify' as 5x70 series flashed etc and same rule: 10.6.5
In the past there was 10.4.6, 10.5.6, but not 10.6.6 - even though strong need for such a DVD.
10.6.8 DVD would be excellent
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Then keep both - dual boot as you learn and test and see what ML does and waht you had that required Rosetta to support PowerPC. See www.roaringapps.com about that.
With Carbon Coyp Cloner - was share, now commercial, great utility been around since 10.2.2 at least - this time 2003. 10 yrs.
You can clone the system folders, you can even selectively choose. You can skip copy of most of your home account and do that separately to another drive if you want.
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Clone
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Using Cloning as a Backup Strategy
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/7032/carbon-copy-cloner
http://www.bombich.com/software/updates/ccc-3.5.html
OS X Lion Install to Different Drive
How to create an OS X Lion installation disc MacFixIt
Migration Assistant Update for Mac OS X Snow Leopard
http://www.apple.com/support/lion/installrecovery/
Create an OS X Lion Install disc
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20080989-263/how-to-create-an-os-x-lion-ins tallation-disc
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http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-HowToClone-backup.html
http://macperformanceguide.com/Mac-HowToClone.html
http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/7032/carbon-copy-cloner
http://www.macperformanceguide.com/blog/2012/20120711_2-MacPro-internal-clone-ba ckup.html
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Put the new drive anywhere you want. Does not matter. Can move it later. Can be drive bay 0-3 or a Firewire external or under the DVD drive.
When you clone pull the old drive and boot from the newly cloned.
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It certainly sounds like a graphics card problem.
User Tip: Mac Pro silver tower (2006-2012) Replacement Graphics cards

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Have you taken the new RAM stick out yet?
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Sometimes even two batches of RAM from a "good" vendor like Crucial are incompatible, and you're saying each set works on their own but not when installed at the same time.
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Hi,
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Mac Pro 2010 Won't boot after adding Ram

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