Mac Pro slow start up
I got a problem with my Mac Pro 4.1, when I turn on the mac the chime sounds after 20 - 30 secs and later on the white or gray screen appears. I had reset the PRAM, changed the coin battery, tested with the "Apple Hardware Test" (no problem at all). I have 20Gb (4X4GB, 4X1GB) of Ram, five hard drives attached to it. I thought that the problem was the hard drive with the OSX (10.8.2), got changed with a new one with a new OSX on it, two hard drives of 2Tb with RAID "lvl 1", two hard drives of 640Gb. When my mac goes to sleep, sometimes when I try to wake it up I hear the sound that wokes up but got no image on display, so I have to force shut down and then turn it on again.
I try dettaching all the hard drives except the one that has the OSX, thought it might be problem of the RAID. I did experiment that my mac freezed and then restart.
Please someone help me with this problem!
Specs Mac Pro 4.1
- 2.26ghz x 2 "8 - core"
- 20gb ram (I recently upgraded my ram from 6Gb)
- 1Tb HDD
- 2Tb HDD x 2 (RAID 1)
- 640Gb HDD x 2
- NVIDIA GT 120 x 2
- OSX Mountain Lion 10.8.2
Sorry for my english that is not so good.
Snow Leopard seems to be the most solid OS.
SSDs can be iffy.
Anyone's RAM can cause or be a problem.
But you said it started before those.
"problem with the hard drive..." is too general and really rare. You would have to have bad sectors or something and not been able to map those out. Any drive can ship that way (not just mapped out at the factory). Zero all from Disk Utilty is not guarantee to resolve those.
Also rare to have a clone not work, SSDs being likely candidate and finiky.
Using Cloning as a Backup Strategy
Carbon Copy Cloner 3.4.1
http://www.bombich.com/software/updates/ccc-3.5.html
OS X Lion Install to Different Drive
How to create an OS X Lion installation disc MacFixIt
Migration Assistant Update for Mac OS X Snow Leopard
Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107393
What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode? (Mac OS X) - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1564
Safe Boot takes longer than normal startup - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107394
Mac OS X 10.4, 10.5- Computer shuts down during Safe Boot - http://support.apple.com/kb/TA24054
If you don't have an installer disc available you can try effecting repairs using fsk in Single User Mode - http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214.
Post by japamac about using fsk - http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1649143
Repairing permissions in Single User Mode - http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=7117122
Mac Running Slow: General Tips & Advice (Kappy)
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4214422?
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My mac pro wont start. I push the power button and I get a click sound. A few seconds later another click sound and that it. I've tried different power plugs. Going direct into the wall, through a power strip. By iteslf, with other devices plugged in. I removed hard drives, and some RAM, and nothing. Sometimes it would not turn on, and then some minutes later it works. So its was sparatic, but now its been the same situation for three days where it wont turn on.
I'm guessing power supply, but I wanted to see if anyone had a similar expereince and what the solution was, before I drag this beast to my local Apple store and have them look at it. Its a real pain to get it there and back and I want to be armed with some info for them. I already dragged this to them when it first started to do this, and of course it started up just fine for them. And you know if it works for the Genius then theres nothing wrong with. No matter what you explain to them.
I figure if anyone had a the same problem and was able to resolve it, I can relate that experience to the Genius even if it start up for them.
ThanksTry a SMC Reset using the extended method:
Remove the AC power cord.
Press the power-on button. [This drains the stored charge from the power supply]
wait a quarter minute.
Restore the power cord, being certain to JAM it into the socket, as the big block of rubber inhibits proper seating.
wait a quarter minute
attempt to power on.
If no joy, examine the button battery half-hidden behind the graphics card. Remove it to measure the Voltage. A new battery should not cost over US$5, and measures a little over 3 Volts. BR-2032 is used in garage door opener controls and car door locks controls. The geeks at Radio Shack can measure it for you. -
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You only bought it four months ago, so it's still under warrantly.
Call Applecare or call your nearest Applestore to make an appointment. Tell them your mac has serious technical issues, describe them shortly. -
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Why does my mac pro slow right down when its on battery ???
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Yo , yeah its a mac book pro, noly got it about 6 months ago, not sure if it has a removable battery, it all looks completely sealed, this is what it said in the battery menu:
Model Information:
Serial Number: W01264M3HD3BA
Manufacturer: SMP
Device Name: bq20z451
Pack Lot Code: 0000
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0201
Hardware Revision: 000a
Cell Revision: 0158
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh): 5021
Fully Charged: No
Charging: No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 5923
Health Information:
Cycle Count: 49
Condition: Normal
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): -958
Voltage (mV): 11946
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Wake on AC Change: No
Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes
Wake on LAN: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes): 10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes): 2
Wake on AC Change: No
Wake on Clamshell Open: Yes
Current Power Source: Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim: Yes
Reduce Brightness: Yes
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed: No
AC Charger Information:
Connected: No
Charging: No
Hope you can help, its reallly quite annoying considering its quite new.
Cheers -
Hi all,
All of a sudden our Mac Mini bought in early 2010 is very slow on start up. In fact it's been on the grey screen now for 20mins with the spinning timer & looking like not much is happening.
It's a Mac Mini Server but it's just used to hold our MYOB Account Edge Network Edition data file. We recently upgraded from MYOB Account Edge V8 to V13. It has been a bit troublesome since then, with FileConnect2013 cutting out. But it had been working OK the last few days. Then today I had to force quit & now it wont start back up again.
Any hints? Thanks.Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
What is needed in a Mac Pro to start developing APPs?
I am looking for information on what Mac Pro (processor speed, memory, and storage capacity) is needed to start developing APPs. In addition, I would like my Mac Pro be viable for the next three years as I learn how to use the system to build APPs and learn basic applications to build APPs as I anticipating changes in the iOS system and programs like Mountain Lion that could use more memory and storage capacity. I am beginning this journey and like to know what system would best fit my needs as Apple continues to progress in their technologies. What should I get in a Mac Pro with 8GB or 16GB, i5 or i7 processor, 256GB or 512GB storage, and 13 in. 2.8GHz or 15 in. 2.5 GHz?
Thank YouYou could buy a new MacBook Air every two years and still come out ahead of what a base Mac Pro costs.
A Mac Pro is not going to go out of style in 4 years.
laptops or their parts are not upgradeable and do tend to fail a bit more. And some of those systems limit you to 16GB RAM but they do have (slower) M.2 SSDs (400 or 700MB/sec vs 1200-1400MB/sec) SSD blades.
If you want to run lots of code and VMs then maybe by accident you are in the right place
MacBook Pro -
Hello Everyone,
I made a similar post about this subject not to long ago but now im back in the same situation. I will just recap everything that i did and hear your guys thoughts on what i did.
So to make a long story short.. I have a 2009 imac that contains all of my applications that i use on a daily basis. I then bought a 2012 12-core Mac Pro. Instead of being patient i wanted to start using this machine right away. I then set up migration assistant on both machines and literally copied everything over from my imac to my newly purchased mac pro. I later realized that this was a bad idea because it brought over boat loads of crap that was not being used (essentially 700GB) My computer was running very slow, defiantly not at speed of what a 12-core should be running at. so i started cleaning it up to the best that i could and was able to clear up 200 or so GB's. I still was not satisfied by the results i was getting. I kept getting beach balls and slow performance overall. so i went out and bought a 120GB SSD drive and figured that would be my best solution... well certainly it was at first. I then cleaned up my applications folder to clear up room in that folder. so after that was done i used migration assistant to transfer JUST the APPLICATIONS over to the SSD. After that was complete i then received a ton of crap on on the SSD. On boot up im not getting a pop up that is attached to a program i use to have on the iMac and is started to run slower than before the migration to the SSD...
So basically this is where i stand. I am thinking about just starting over from scratch and only bring over the files and applications that i need on the SSD. What is the best way to take applications off of my imac and put them onto my mac pro (meaning without migration assistant) The reason i need to transfer them over is because i do not have all of the applications on CD form to just re-install again. However, if i need to get the applications from the CD's for this to work then i will just have tp go through with that extra bit of trouble to do it the right way.
The whole purpose of this is trying to clean up my computer and keep it as organized as possible.
If anyone has any recommendations for the best way to perform this operation, its greatly appreciated!
thanks in advance!A clean install along with Setup Assistant (or Migration Assistant) really is good and important way to go.
Too many issues moving to a newer OS and it has been made easy.
You can CCC clone the home folders elsewhere.
You can CCC the system and apps to another drifve and retain just your home library (the part that is now hidden which is annoying to some and taking too invasive into user space as if we can't and don't need access?)
~/Library
The only apps you can are ones you may as well just download and mount and drag, the type that lack and don't need to install anything anywheres but the package of the app itself. -
Mac Pro - Slow boot, Slow performance
Hello,
I have a mac pro quad 2.66 running 10.4.11 , 1GB ram . I have a pro tools pciE core card in the computer, 2 20" cinema displays, 1 glyph external firewire 400 drive, and 1 western digital usb hard drive connected to the computer.
Recently the computer started booting really slow, like 5 minutes slow. then the computer started to run extremely slow as well, like un-usable slow. my macbook 1.83 is like a super machine in comparison. If I double click an icon (like finder or cd drive) it takes about 5 - 10 seconds to show the icon is highlighted then another 10 - 20 seconds to open the finder window.
As of now, the computer can sometimes take up to 10 - 15 minutes to boot up, there is no more "startup" noise, and i cant seem to get the computer to boot off of the osx disk. I hold down C from the moment i turn on the computer and i hold it down for about 15 minutes and the computer still starts from the hard drive. the super drive is still working because it can read the disk fine once it boots up.
i dont know what to do, i opened up the computer, it looks somewhat dirty inside. i thought about trying to clean it and see if that helps, dont know what to clean it with though. computer duster? (if thats even the problem). I was thinking some sort of ram error or something, but i dont know if that explains why i cant boot from the install disk to try and repair the startup HD.
please help, thanks in advance,
brhttp://eshop.macsales.com/item/Western%20Digital/WD6400AAKS/
http://www.barefeats.com/harper14.html
Great replacement - and worth every penny of $82 to avoid and fix this, and because your system will run better.
Resetting PRAM/NVRAM
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
SMC - System Management Controller
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1806
Most articles are easily found at Mac Pro Support
http://www.apple.com/support/macpro/
It is a good idea to insure new memory works by itself; to run Apple Hardware Test (OEM DVD boot with "D" to run Extended Test) once, too. And yes, 4 x 2GB would be better and loss of 1GB won't help enough. Still have room to add 4 x 1GB or more down the road.
You keep the four keys held down through 3 complete restart cycles before you release the keys.
If the system forgets where to boot from, which this will trigger, hold the OPTION key. Also, it should still boot but have to scan for a valid boot drive system.... which is what your problem, in part, sounds like (except for some other issues).
Yes, great on UPS and backups. But it is also "wise" for you or your department, to have some emergency boot drives (FireWire 800 is great) for repairs, maintenance and to make changes - and to rule out the drive is functioning. A bad block sector can ruin everything and cause days of fixing, when having a backup or alternate would be... your own personal "UPS" - redundancy. Some servers have redundant PSU and other components, a "spare tire" if you will.
Finder: Go to Folder (under one of the menus or just use "Command + Shift + G" and type "var/vm" will show you the location of swap files, which is normally a hidden folder. Nice to get to know a couple places where some things are stored. Also, look at Activity Monitor. Leopard seems to have more information on pageouts, VM, and swap files being used.
SmcFanControl is a little background utility that most of us use, that helps especially in summer or with some upgrade cards to keep everything run cooler, like FBDIMM RAM. The default fan rpm is 499-599 while setting it even to 799 will make enough difference to drop the temperature or keep temps below threshold.
http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/23049/smcfancontrol
Which brings up another - monitoring the temperature of cpu, memory, etc. I use Hardware Monitor, many use iStatPro or Temperature Monitor. All easy to find on MacUpdate while there. All of them don't have any negative side effect - lean and mean and the "less is more" philosophy keeps a system running its smoothest and error free, so normally I avoid installing what I don't need, and avoid the potential for conflicts, but these are fine, been using for 2 yrs, since I got Mac Pro.
http://www.bresink.com/osx/HardwareMonitor.html - he knows his stuff and has contributed to discussions on system memory temps.
System Startup key commands:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303124
Long startup times:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86639
Repairing your startup drive (rather than use DVD though, much better to have TechTool Pro http://www.micromat.com )
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.5/en/8492.html -
Mac Pro slow after upgrade to 10.5.5
I got a certified Mac Pro a few month ago. It worked pretty fast in the beginning but then the performance slowed down. I called the Apple support and they just told me to upgrade from 10.5.4 to 10.5.5. But now my Mac is even slower than before; especially start up time takes a while.
Also, when I do "Disk Utility – Repair Disk permission" I get these errors now:
OwnerGroupTool" has been modified and will not be repaired.
Warning: SUID file "usr/bin/lppasswd" has been modified and will not be repaired.
Group differs on "private/etc/cups", should be 0, group is 26.
Permissions differ on "private/var/spool/cups/cache/rss", should be drwxr-xr-x , they are drwxrwxr-x .
Can anyone help?Hi and thank you very much for all your suggestions!
I'm really not a Mac expert. In my company we always had a technican. Now I'm working from home and need to deal with the technical stuff by myself. So please forgive me my answers below:
Run Disk Warrior.
OK – I don't have this program but I guess it is worth to buy (?)
Clone your drive with SuperDuper or Disk Utility Restore.
I found Disk Utility Restore. It says to copy a disk, drag the it from the list on the left. Should I drag the HD symbol in the destination field? What does actually happen when I clone my HD?
Never repair permissions booted from an older version,, that includes not using the OS X DVD, it will not set permissions properly.
OK – thanks
What do you mean by slower. Just startup? how many boot drives are connected? and have you reset startup disk? do you have Windows installed?
Yes starting up is slower, but funily not always. And the general handling in programs. It's not so slow that it would bother me a lot. I just wondered if I could have the performance how it was in the beginning.
One boot drive; I guess.
No, I haven't reset startup disk. How do I do this?
No Windows installed
What did you change or install (hardware or software) at the time it slowed down?
Just the update to 10.5.5
Always keep a backup copy you can boot from before you apply updates so you can go back easily to 10.5.4.
Thanks – I didn't do this
Make sure you have an alternate boot drive used just for doing maintenance and repairs where you can run Disk Utility, Warrior, TechTool Pro. I would also delete manually the two top level /Library/Caches folders along with extensions.mkext.
Sorry – What exactly is alternate boot drive?
Some messages from Disk Utility can be ignored.
Are some messages serious? -
Macbook pro slow start after upgrading to mountain lion
I have a macbook pro core 2 due originally runing Mac os x 10.6. I upgraded to mac os x 10.8.1 now and realized that the computer becomes slow start and shut down. Scanned with OnlyX and followed the instruction by restarting with hold down option-command-P and R, showed no help.
How could I solve the problem?
Thanks.Remove items from System Preferences > Users & Groups > Login Items
And HD > Library > StartupItems
Then restart your Mac. -
Mac Pro Slow Shutting down Disk Ut says needs repair
Hi hope someone can help,
My mac pro has been taking a long time to shut down recently and this morning when i booted up all i had was a black screen with my mouse pointer (really weird).
I used Disk Utility to "verify disk" and it said that repairs were necessary. Here's the log:
Aug 24 08:31:55: Disk Utility started.
Verifying volume “Aygies Raid”
Checking HFS Plus volume.
Checking Extents Overflow file.
Checking Catalog file.
Incorrect block count for file PACESupport.plist
(It should be 0 instead of 1)
cking multi-linked files.",0)
Checking Catalog hierarchy.
Checking Extended Attributes file.
Checking volume bitmap.
Checking volume information.
@ needs to be repaired.",1)
Aygies Raid
Error: The underlying task reported failure on exit
Disk Utility stopped verifying “Aygies Raid” because the following error was encountered:
The underlying task reported failure on exit
1 HFS volume checked
Volume needs repair
I have a clone of my drive on an external drive so i booted from that i tried to repair permissions on mac pros drives but it said repairs weren't needed, Log:
Verifying volume “Aygies Raid”
Checking HFS Plus volume.
Checking Extents Overflow file.
Checking Catalog file.
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking Catalog hierarchy.
Checking Extended Attributes file.
Checking volume bitmap.
Checking volume information.
The volume Aygies Raid appears to be OK.
Mounting Disk
1 HFS volume checked
Volume passed verification
But then i booted from the mac pro again and it said that it needs repair! I used disk warriour and this is its log:
DiskWarrior scanned the disk named "Aygies Raid" checking all files and folders for damage and potential
compatibility problems.
Permissions:
Started verify/repair permissions on disk disk2 Aygies Raid
Determining correct file permissions.
The privileges have been verified or repaired on the selected volume
Verify/repair finished permissions on disk disk2 Aygies Raid
Disk: "Aygies Raid"
The Property List data was checked in 17,785 files.
The Resource Data was checked in 9,721 files.
The maximum Folder Depth on this disk is 17. This does not exceed the maximum recommended depth.
The System Symbolic Link Files were checked and no problems were found.
Location: "Desktop"
File: ".a23t.obdev.LSD.plist"
Detected that Property List data is damaged and cannot be repaired.
XML parser error:
Unexpected character
at line 1
Old-style plist parser error:
Unexpected character '0x4' at line 1
Location: "Aygies Raid/Users/aygie/Library/Preferences/"
File: "com.SysternatemsCorporation.StudioExcellence.plist"
Detected that Property List data is damaged and cannot be repaired.
XML parser error:
Unexpected character at line 1
Old-style plist parser error:
Unexpected character '0x0' at line 1
Location: "Aygies Raid/Users/aygie/Library/Preferences/"
File: "com.EtworataCorporation.Zonesys.plist"
Detected that Property List data is damaged and cannot be repaired.
XML parser error:
Unexpected character at line 1
Old-style plist parser error:
Unexpected character '0x0' at line 1
Location: "Aygies Raid/Users/aygie/Library/Preferences/"
File: "com.AppersEurope.Sickle.plist"
Detected that Property List data is damaged and cannot be repaired.
XML parser error:
Unexpected character at line 1
Old-style plist parser error:
Unexpected character '0x0' at line 1
Location: "Aygies Raid/Users/aygie/Library/Preferences/"
File: "com.Roverbetter.Eclecticism.plist"
Detected that Property List data is damaged and cannot be repaired.
XML parser error:
Unexpected character at line 1
Old-style plist parser error:
Unexpected character '0x0' at line 1
Location: "Aygies Raid/Users/aygie/Library/Preferences/"
File: "com.Hostcyte.Craziness.plist"
Detected that Property List data is damaged and cannot be repaired.
XML parser error:
Unexpected character at line 1
Old-style plist parser error:
Unexpected character '0x0' at line 1
Location: "Aygies Raid/Users/aygie/Library/Preferences/"
Explanations:
Folder Depth: This number indicates how many folders are nested inside each other. If a disk contains only three
folders and Folder A is inside Folder B and Folder B is inside Folder C, then this disk has a maximum folder depth of
three. Folders nested too deeply can cause software compatibility problems.
Property List: This is a standard file format for storing data and is often used to store preferences. The names of
these files normally end with a .plist file extension. Corrupt property list files can cause system instability.
Resource Data: This is an older file format for storing data and was often used to store preferences. The names of
these files normally end with a .rsrc file extension. Corrupt resource data files can cause system instability.
System Symbolic Link Files: These are files used by the operating system that are similar to aliases. If these files are
damaged it may prevent startup or cause system instability.
Time: 24/8/07 08:44:56
DiskWarrior Version: 4.0
Went back to Disk utility and now it says that my hard drive doesn't need repair! whats going on! can anyone help?!
Thank youTwo things off the top:
128MB are GUID partitions that are not user volumes.
There is also a 200MB EFI partition as well.
Drive Genius needs to get their program updated.
You need to work from an "emergency" boot drive to repair your boot drive, RAID or no. I hope you are and not from CD or DVDs.
Forget about Permissions. They are very minor. They only have to do with ownership and security and based on what is in
/Library/Receipts
Trying to verify? all you want to do is repair and rebuild.
If you ran DU and DW and did repair and rebuild and WROTE NEW DIRECTORY and the problem remains, erase and restore, or...
+I am useless with RAID and have no idea...+
Don't use it except to test, learn, experiment with. But not for system drive.
Above I asked, "are these a matched pair of drives" ie, same make, (looks like same size), vendor, model? they should be. Less chance of trouble if nothing else.
ON the boot volume, do a Get Info when you click on the drive, look for "Ignore Ownership on this Volume" and make sure it is NOT CHECKED. It can't be to repair permissions and be bootable.
The underlying cause of disk errors may be marginal or bad RAM. Test those FBDIMMs. Run Apple Hardware Test and Memtest (even Microsoft uses Memtest for Vista).
Drives rarely break. Systems do. Directory and btree catalogue and volume information blocks do. -
Hi everyone,
My Mac Pro early 2009 won't start. Mac Pro early 2009, 8 core, Intel Xeon. 4 hard drives. Radeon video card 4870 512MB. Memory : 14GB
I've changed the power supply with a new one, cleaned all the dust, unplugged the Radeon video card, the fans, the processor tray, the DVD drive. Reinstalled everything.Replaced the battery button.
After a while, it started, not right from the first attempt.
I've plugged all the 4 disks, keyboard and display.
Mac OS Yosemite check everything and said the memory is not set correctly : one of 4Gb Dimm was not in the right slot and one isn't found. I shutdown. I tried another memory configuration and restarted. Another memory warning appeared about the slots. I shutdowned, remove my 4Gb dimm and started again with 6x1Gb memory set. The computer started perfectly well and ran for 1hour.
Then it shutdowned without notice. The inside was very hot.
I let the Mac Pro cool down with a fan nearby.
Then all the attempts to restart it failed.
I took all the parts away again and tried to analyse the problem. While pressing on the motherboard button an orange led shown, just one : 3v stby
When I plug the power supply to the motherboard, a red light shown for one second near the power button.
The motherboard is 2 years old, already replaced since I've bought the computer. I noticed 2 rusted (silver colored) square components in the middle of the motherboard.
I live in a tropical island, the air is warm and humid. No air con. No Apple store within 3.000km
Who can help me found how to fix this issue ? Thanks for your time !or this one:
Troubleshooting: My computer won't turn on
If no joy, remove anything and everything that may be dragging down the power, in hopes of getting a chime. This includes graphics card, any other PCI cards, all drives, and some say all but a minimal amount of memory. Look for the chime.
If you get the chime, you can build slowly up from there. Add back graphics card and keep going. Add back memory and keep going. Add back DVD reader and boot from Installer/Utilities DVD or run the Apple Hardware Test. And so on. -
Satellite Pro - Slow start up and sound is messed up
I have had my *Toshiba Satellite Pro* with *Windows XP* for a good few years now. She has always worked like a gem and has given me no problems until a few weeks ago.
A few weeks ago I was downloading a program and with it came the very unwanted and unliked "Antivir Solutions" virus. I did everything I could to get rid of this disaster (thanks to the help of support forums) and I think I managed to get rid of it, but ever since then my computer has not been the same.
I was having trouble downloading a PDF document a few days ago and it froze so I tried to restart which caused the computer to have a hissy fit, deleting my user account which meant I had to set all that up again from scratch. And, now, the computer takes a good 45 minutes from the time you press the "ON" button to when it is ready to start working. Not to mention, it takes a good 10 minutes each time you click an icon for the program to actually start..
I have tried defragmenting the system and have tried uninstalling unused programs to speed the computer up, but it hasn't worked.
I have also run several antivirus programs (such as Norton, AVG and Microsoft Security Essentials) to make sure I have no nasties messing me up, but they come up clean.
May I also add- The sound is messed up also. Whether I use the inbuilt speakers or external speakers the sound is disjointed and broken. As is any Video I play.
I just don't know what to do.
I cannot really afford a new computer, but I need my computer to be reliable. I use my computer for 12 out of the 24 hours in each day...
*What can I do?*Hi nicoletrist,
I dont know what notebook you have exactly but I think the slow Windows start is caused due the viruses that you have or had.
Few years ago I had also a virus and it was causing a very slow start up, it did take up to 10 minutes until Windows was loaded and the only solution to get rid of this was using Toshiba recovery disk.
I would recommend the same to you. Use the Toshiba recovery disk to restore factory settings and backup your data because everything on HDD will be deleted.
Im sure after using recovery disk your notebook will run like a charm again! :)
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