MacBook Conundrum

So I have a MacBook that I acquired with the common problem of not turning on. However it is a conundrum I have not found the specific answer to in the forums. When I got it the power button didn't work, but it would go to sleep and wake up. It would also only run on the power cord. I noticed it kept losing the date so I assumed it was the pram battery. Bought one, replace it and....wouldn't turn on at all. When I looked at the battery I removed, I noticed that one of the wires was disconnected. So here is where I am at:
Situation #1.
Pram battery disconnected.
System will start with power cord and no battery. Put battery in and system shuts down.
Power button does not work
Situation #2
pram battery disconnected with battery in.
System will not start.
Power button does not work
Situation #3
pram battery connected with no battery or battery in.
system will not start.
Power button does not work
When the pram is connected I can't reset the pram because the system won't start.
I live no where near an apple store. Any suggestions, thoughts? Is this the logic board? If so, why will the system function in situation #1?
Thanks.

Network 23 wrote:
Then get the 13" and put 16GB RAM in it.
The trick is to not buy the RAM upgrade from Apple. Order the MacBook Pro with the minimum amount of RAM, then buy a 16GB kit from OWC or Crucial. These are very reputable companies that often research and then make available reliable kits that can go beyond the RAM limit Apple goes by.
OWC/MacSales 16GB kit
Cruclal 16GB kit
The only reason Apple RAM configurations may be less than others is because Apple does not test newer, larger RAM modules with existing machines. Apple only tests modules available at the time the machines were first shipped and that was last year.
The newest 13" has 8GB on board memory and no slots. It is not upgradable.

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W530 vs. MacBook Pro (non-Retina) purchase conundrum...

Hi,
for 3D modeling (Alias Autostudio 2013) and 3D rendering (Next Limit Maxwell Render 2.7.1) and Photography (Photoshop CS6, etc.) I looked at the newish Lenovo W530 compared to three other contenders. I configured them all with the same processor and standard HDD to compare. For colour calibration, I have a professional EyeOne solution so the W530's option is not needed. I am using external Monitors when not on the road. All prices were found in the companies' online stores.
My reasoning so far - only the Dell and HP feature an IPS/H-IPS display panel. The Dell is bulky. The HP too costly in comparison. The MacBook Pro has all parts glued in. The W530 has a bad keyboard and is bulky. I liked the fact that (as explained in another thread) it is very easy and affordable to put a Samsung 830 SSD in the W530 and that some parts can be serviced/upgraded with reasonable effort a couple of years down the road).
Looking at the price/performance of all four, I suddenly find the non-Retina MBP a serious option for a Windows machine with the added benefit of slimness. What is the consensus in this forum?
Thanks for any input!
Apple MacBook Pro (non-Regina version because of Windows 7 and 8 lacking support with pixel scaling)
i7-3720QM quad-core 2,6 GHz 6 MB L3 cache
8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 SDRAM
750 GB SATA 6 GB/s 7200 RPM
1680 x 1050 NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 1 GB GDDR5
2,6kg
2.379,00 €
Dell Precision M4700
i7-3720QM quad-core 2,6 GHz 6 MB L3 cache
16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 SDRAM
750 GB SATA 6 GB/s 7200 RPM
1920 x 1080 AMD FirePro M4000 Mobility Pro 1 GB GDDR5
2,8kg
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Lenovo ThinkPad W530
i7-3720QM quad-core 2,6 GHz 6 MB L3 cache
16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 SDRAM
500 GB SATA 6 GB/s 7200 RPM
1920 x 1080 NVIDIA Quadro K2000M 2 GB GDDR3
2,7kg
2.151,42 €
HP Elitebook 8560w
i7-3720QM quad-core 2,5 GHz 8 MB L3 cache
8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 SDRAM
750 GB SATA 3 GB/s 7200 RPM
1920 x 1080 NVIDIA Quadro 2000M 2 GB GDDR3
3,1kg
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I think I can give some good input here, on the W530 at least.
Firstly, I'm using a W520 for exactly your purposes--3D modeling (Solidworks, Autodesk products, etc.), engineering simulation/analysis, and extensive photography and photo editing, and it is GREAT. Of course, all other brands of laptops with similar system specs should perform about as well, but the size/weight of the Lenovo is unmatched by any of the other laptop PCs I have used. I use a Dell M4600 at work, and it's a decent laptop, but it feels very heavy and bulky compared to my W520. Performance-wise, the two are spec'd identically, and performance is nearly identical, except my W520 gets noticeably better battery life for some reason.
I can't vouch for the IPS displays of the Dell or HP, but I will definitely caution you of this: pay attention to the color gamut! This matters so much and it's one of those numbers that most consumers never bother to care about because they don't know what it means. The larger the color gamut of a display, the more colors it's capable of displaying.
Even the Macbook Retina display only has an sRGB color gamut. That means it's only capable of displaying the colors within the sRGB color space and that's it. Sure, the IPS screen has nice contrast and good viewing angles, but you're missing out on a lot of colors that the Lenovo FHD display gives you, assuming it's calibrated properly.
Now, keep in mind, ALL digital SLR cameras are capable of recording color well beyond the sRGB color space. Looking at photos on a calibrated sRGB display vs. a calibrated AdobeRGB display makes an enormous difference.
Have a look at this graphic I made for you: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0h7vad4x8gi81j6/kbB13_927X#f:gamuts.png The top plot shows you the AdobeRGB color space (wireframe) vs. the Lenovo FHD calibrated display color gamut. You can see that the Lenovo color gamut comes very very close to filling out the entirety of the AdobeRGB color space.
The image below that is the sRGB color space (solid) vs. AdobeRGB (wireframe). See how many fewer color values that represents? That's what you're getting with the vast majority of laptop displays. In fact, most typical laptop displays are only capable of 60-70% of sRGB. That's, frankly, terrible.
Now, beyond that, I will admit the MBP is very slim, and sleek. But, you can't upgrade anything in it, and the keyboard sucks compared to the W530. My girlfriend has a W530 and, much as I hate to admit it, the keyboard is nowhere near as bad as we all feared compared to my W520. In typing feel, it is just as good, the key caps are actually a little bit larger (so more finger space), and the new layout is really only going to bother you if you're very accustomed to a clustered del/home/end/pgup/pgdown group. I still prefer my W520 keyboard, but the W530 keyboard is very nice.
If you do go for the Lenovo, definitely don't waste your money on the built-in color sensor. It's horrible. Your external calibrator will give you much better results. I don't know which EyeOne device you're using, but make sure it's capable of working with wide-gamut displays. If it's not, I'd recommend either a Spyder3 or Spyder4 sensor. You can get the cheapest versions of these for ~70 dollars and then use dispCalGUI (freeware) to get VERY good profiling results.
Josh

Conundrum Macbook Pro 13" or 15"

I really like the form-factor of the 13" Macbook Pro. The problem is, I really would like to have 16gb of memory and you can't do that with the 13". I can do it with the 15" Macbook Pro, but that's a little larger than I would like.
Here's what I do with my 17" Macbook now (but it's kind of big to carry around). Parallels with Windows 7 - soon to be Windows 8, Bootcamp with Windows 7 and then, of course, Mac OS. I support clients with all 3 OS's and this lets me carry one machine around when I go on calls. I just want something smaller / lighter to lug around.
I do a lot of photoshop and Dreamweaver stuff too (via Mac) so the extra memory is never a bad thing.
Looking for opinions from you folks.
Thanks!

Network 23 wrote:
Then get the 13" and put 16GB RAM in it.
The trick is to not buy the RAM upgrade from Apple. Order the MacBook Pro with the minimum amount of RAM, then buy a 16GB kit from OWC or Crucial. These are very reputable companies that often research and then make available reliable kits that can go beyond the RAM limit Apple goes by.
OWC/MacSales 16GB kit
Cruclal 16GB kit
The only reason Apple RAM configurations may be less than others is because Apple does not test newer, larger RAM modules with existing machines. Apple only tests modules available at the time the machines were first shipped and that was last year.
The newest 13" has 8GB on board memory and no slots. It is not upgradable.

My Thunderbolt-port equipped 15" Macbook Pro (Early 2011) works with other monitors but not with my Thunderbolt Display.

I just got a thunderbolt monitor and excitedly, I plugged my early 2011 thunderbolt port equipped 15" Macbook Pro (running 10.8.2) into it and... no image on the monitor.
Ok, so I know that the TB display works because I plugged a mid-2012 13" Macbook Pro into it (running 10.7.5) and it works perfectly. In fact, I'm using it to type this message right now.
Other details:
- in both the displays preference pane and about this mac/system info, the 15" mbp recognizes the display, yet... no picture either clamshell open or closed. restarted with it plugged in and not plugged in, no difference. also? sound comes through the monitor.
- ALSO, i plugged in a mini displayport monitor into the 15" port, and it displayed fine, so the port seems to be doing something.
see my conundrum?

It should just work - if it's not working with your 2011 model (works just fine with my 15" late 2011, right out of the box) I would get in touch with AppleCare as soon as possible and see what the senior techs may have to say...
Clinton

Can you control a MacBook Air with an iPad?

First off I wasn't sure where to post this so sorry if this is in the wrong place.
I teach in a small rural high school that has decided to implement 1-to-1 technology this school year. All students will be issued an iPad (3rd Gen), and all teachers have been issued an iPad (3rd Gen) along with a MacBook Air (I'm assuming it is whatever generation is currently new).
So here is my conundrum. Our school does not provide all teachers with a projector to use for presentations and such. This means that I have to lug around my personal projector if I will need it in class that day. What I am trying to figure out is if there is a way to control my MacBook with my iPad, while the MacBook is connected to my projector? Ultimately I would like to be able to walk around my room with my iPad in hand with access to my MacBook and projector set up to control presentations, show things from the internet, or whatever else comes up.
I am assuming there is some way to do this, but I really am not sure where to look since I am still fairly new with the iPad. I've looked at apps like iTap VNC, but I am unsure if this is what I am looking for or if there is something else to consider. Any expensive programs (over $20) or equipment is out of the question since I have to pay for it myself and will not be reimbursed. I am unsure if this matters either, but the school is not providing us with any programs such as Keynote or other presentation programs. I am currently using Open Office on my MacBook.
I should probably also add that I have seen questions about using the iPad with a MacBook Pro. I was just unsure if similar solutions would work with this scenario.
Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you.

You need a remote app. Look at Team Viewer and Splashtop Remote. Both apps will allow you to control the computer from the iPad. I use Team Viewer a little now and then and you do have to get the hang of the movements and such, but both of the apps are for remote access of your computer.

Seriously? Is there not any way to view DRM-protected books downloaded from iTunes on my MacBook Pro? I cannot believe that there is no way around this?

Seriously? Is there not any way to view and read DRM-protected books downloaded on iTunes on my MacBook Pro? I cannot believe that there is not any way around this! I seem to constantly get confounded by what seems to be the most amazingly unbelievable conundrums with Apple despite having been a champion of the company for years and years. This relates to tethering on iPhone, external Apple hard drives only being usable with MacBook Air, and now this! If anyone is aware of a hack or way around this I would appreciate some guidance. Thanks!

"Seriously? "
Yes.
" Is there not any way to view and read DRM-protected books downloaded on iTunes on my MacBook Pro?"
There is not.
" I cannot believe that there is not any way around this!"
Believe it.

Can't upgrade to 10.10.2 on macbook air ??

10.10.2 downloads, seems to install, but does not do anything. I am still on 10.10.1. The Appstore shows 3 previous downloads of 10.10.2 in the last few days saying it was installed, but it also asks me to update to 10.10.2 !!! Looks like an endless loop. About this mac shows that I am still on 10.10.1.
Any solution to this conundrum ? MacBook Air 11 inch, Mid 2013.

Go to Apple/Support/Downloads and download it from there.

Screen resolution zooms automatically, Macbook Pro 15" 2006- how to reset?

Hi-
A conundrum: plugged in an inexpensive third party keyboard (USB) into my Macbook pro 15" (Mod # A1150),running OS 10.4.11.
Immediately, the resolution zoomed to an unreadable size, and I cannot get the default reset.
I've tried Safe Boot several times, and zapping the PRAM. No results.
Would likeany ideas that are reasonable- need the machine asap,in the middle of a job. Ugh.
Thanks in advance!
M

Hi-
On I got into Preferences, I did indeed turn of the zooming option... thank you very much for your ready reply and helpful insight.
cheers, Marc

MacBook and MacBook Pro hard drives compatible?

Hi everyone
I want to upgrade the hard drive on my 2006 13" macbook. It is currently 80GB. I have just bought a new MacBook Pro with a 320GB hard drive. Can i use this hard drive for my MacBook and buy a 500GB hard drive for my MBP?
Many thanks

As far as I know, it may not be able to be done. But you can double check with AppleCare. The datapath of all 2010 Macs is 3 Gbps. The datapath of all 2006 Macs is 1.5 Gbps. It is on the manufacturer specs. I don't know if Apple has any method of installing its new drives on older machines. 2009 was the big transition year, where firmware was offered. I've gotten off support with OWC, at http://www.macsales.com/ and they at least tell me they believe their drives should all work on 2006 Macs, in spite of this conundrum. But again, the manufacturer is the one who can tell you if they believe it will work on pre-3 Gbps transition machines without issue.

Bookmarks don't display correctly on a 13" MacBook Pro, some subfolders won't expand, Anybody have this issue? Thank you!

I am using a 13" MacBook Pro, Mid-2012 with OS 10.9.3.
A while back I created some sub-folders in several bookmark headings. Several of them do not expand when hovering over them. The bookmarks are displayed towards the right side of the screen, and the next tier or level should display towards the left. It does not. I have deleted and reinstalled the bookmarks several times. I have removed the subfolders, and the book marks work fine.
All of the bookmarks display and work correctly on my 27" iMac.
Is this a screen real estate issue? Is there a fix for this?
Thank you!

These two folders have done this ever since I created them. I have deleted all bookmarks in Firefox and then reintroduced them all... Problem still persisted. I took the bookmarks out of the subfolders and deleted the subfolders. Bookmarks worked. I recreated the folders and added the bookmarks in, the problem still persisted.
I have a 27" iMac. The bookmarks open to the right, then the subfolders, right again. But they function because of the extra real estate. On this notebook, they open right, then left... With the exception of these two subfolders. It is a conundrum!
This issue actually drove me back to Safari. I like Firefox, but this is crazy!
And, thanks for your help!

MacBook stops booting from 2 TB external

Alright, so it was hard to decide where to post this, and here's why :
My 24" iMac ( see specs below ) is currently off with the Apple Geniuses getting it's Super-Drive replaced, should be ready mid next week.
In the meantime I'm doing what I've done a few times in the past 2 years & booting from a clone of it on a LaCie 2 TB external fire-wire drive. It's always worked before, but last night a simple restart resulted in my MacBook, after the LaCie was chosen to boot to, getting stuck in an alternating series of 2 blue-screens ( one slightly darker then the other ), with an occasional quick glimpse of the gearwheel which lasted for a second.
Disk Utility told me that the Lacie needed some minor repair to the Volume Header, and that went fine . . . but still no boot.
The LaCie is quite visible on the MacBook's desktop and I can go on with Finder and open any file I please.
A couple of Apple Techs have found this to be quite the conundrum, but accepted my friend's theory that the macBook just reached "a choking point" with the speed of the Lacie coming at it.
Here's some System Profiler on the MacBook :
Model Name: MacBook
Model Identifier: MacBook1,1
Processor Name: Intel Core Duo
Processor Speed: 1.83 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache (per processor): 2 MB
Memory: 512 MB
Bus Speed: 667 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MB11.0061.B03
SMC Version: 1.4f12
Plus !, The reason I wasn't sure where to post this is the MacBook is still running Tiger, while the clone on the LaCie is up-to-date Leopard.
Aside from my misuses of terms here & there, does this give anyone a flash of recognition ?
TIA !
--=Dave

( Heavy Sigh )
The Mac is back . . .♪ and there's gonna be trouble ♫
Everything seems fine w/ my "returned" iMac, altho' I haven't tested the replaced Super-Drive yet . . . too busy struggling w/ the LaCie Fire-Wire !
The iMac couldn't boot from it either. Disk Utility took me thru this sequence :
*Verifying volume “Remastered Clone”*
*Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.*
*Checking Extents Overflow file.*
*Checking Catalog file.*
*Checking multi-linked files.*
*Checking Catalog hierarchy.*
*Checking Extended Attributes file.*
*Checking volume bitmap.*
*Checking volume information.*
*Volume Header needs minor repair*
*The volume Remastered Clone needs to be repaired.*
*Error: Filesystem verify or repair failed.*
*Verify and Repair volume “Remastered Clone”*
*Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.*
*Checking Extents Overflow file.*
*Checking Catalog file.*
*Checking multi-linked files.*
*Checking Catalog hierarchy.*
*Checking Extended Attributes file.*
*Checking volume bitmap.*
*Checking volume information.*
*Volume Header needs minor repair*
*Repairing volume.*
*Rechecking volume.*
*Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.*
*Checking Extents Overflow file.*
*Checking Catalog file.*
*Checking multi-linked files.*
*Checking Catalog hierarchy.*
*Checking Extended Attributes file.*
*Checking volume bitmap.*
*Checking volume information.*
*The volume Remastered Clone was repaired successfully.*
So I was briefly relieved, but to no avail.
Also, having an extra, virgin power-brick from a replacement earlier this year which included a new set of accessories, I've tried that as well. ( but to no avail )
What really gets me, and my lack of in-depth knowledge, is how it's right there on the desktop . . all accessible and nice, yet unbootable.
Would the legendary Disk Warrior actually do more then Disk Utility ??

Ethernet printer conundrum

Ethernet printer conundrum.
===========================
My "network" is minimal and simple:
The DSL connection comes from the street to a Siemens/SpeedStream DSL "modem"/hub supplied by the phone company (my ISP). My desktop Mac is connected by Ethernet wire to one of the five ports on said "modem"/hub.
A Netgear RangeMax Next wireless router Gigabit Edition is also connected to one of the five ports of said modem/hub.
So far so good.
I can connect to the Internet through the wire and my wife's Macbook connects to the Internet wirelessly through the Netgear.
Then, I connect a Samsung ML-2850ND monochrome laser printer that replaces my recently, finally deceased LaserWriter IIg, to another port on the DSL modem/hub. Great, I can print from my desktop machine.
But the wirelessly connected Macbook cannot print.
Then I unplug the Samsung printer from the DSL modem/hub and connect it directly to the Netgear router. Now the Macbook can print, but it cannot connect to the Internet.
Will a network SWITCH to split the printer connection between the two routers help? Or am I dreaming?
Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Message was edited by: Ramón G Castañeda

I think you should arrange a completely different configuration than the currently used in your setup.
I'll tell you how I'd conect it if it were my home network (and I have set several DSL modem and wireless routers this way).
First, connect the desktop computer to a LAN port on the Netgear router using an Ethernet cable, enter the configuration page and run the Setup Wizard, as described in this Netgear k.b. article.
You will need to enter the username and password provided by your ISP. You can get them thru the DSL modem configuration page, or by calling your ISP Support desk.
Basically, when you set PPPoE on your wireless router, it is the router the one that obtains the external ip address from your ISP, instead of the modem, which is put into "Bridged mode".
Then, the router will assign an internal ip address to every device you connect to it. Also, check the router has a lease time set to "forever".
If the Netgear router Setup Wizard fails to set to PPPoE mode, then you'll need to manually enter the modem into bridging or "bridge mode" and configure the Netgear router manually to PPPoE.
The reason I suggest you to implement this setup is that, not only the network printer and the computers will get to work they way they do, but also, in the future, if you want to add any other device to your network, you'll only need to plug it into a LAN port on the Netgear router, or join the wireless signal provided by it. It's a robust configuration.
The tricky part may be to get the modem into bridge mode...

Macbook white non startup - please help novice

Please help - i've just bought my first mac and i'm already stuck .
Everything was fine - it worked ok, but i turned it off and all I'm getting now is the spinning wheel on a grey screen - i've tried everything the manual suggests.
please can someone help me?

I just added this to my own thread, but I wanted to make sure you got it:
If you just bought a new machine, I would suggest getting Apple phone help. I am far out of warranty, no Apple Care (bought it for the desktop, never used). One thing that is helping me is that I can access & manipulate my MacBook via my desktop iMac. I spent about 3 days checking out this discussion forum and trouble shooting prior to posting my conundrum. It sounds like starting up from the Install DVD and an Archive & Install are good places to start - anyone please correct me if I am wrong. Good luck!
I'll keep an eye on your thread & try to help if I can. Stand Strong!

Strange Problem - Kernel Panic when moving MacBook

So, as the title says, I've been having a really strange problem with my MacBook. (white, 1.83Ghz, 1.25GB RAM, 10.4.7)
Since I upgraded the hard drive (I used SuperDuper! to transfer the data exactly from the stock 60GB to a seagate 120GB), I seem to frequently get kernel panics whenever I physically move my MacBook, unless it's sleeping when I move it. Is the hard drive going bad? Any ideas?

That's an interesting conundrum.
I can only guess that it has something to do with the Sudden Motion Sensor. Or that there's a short in the SATA connection (possibly reseat the drive into the socket again) or maybe the RAM which I'd do the same and make sure the RAM is seated well.
Very interesting. Sorry I don't have anything more to offer.

I am having macbook air recently my iphotos did not open and was showing report apple and reopen but i came to know that by pressing alt and iphotos i open an new photo library and stored the pics but now how can i get the pics which i had in the earlier

i am having macbook air recently my iphotos did not open and was showing report apple and reopen but i came to know that by pressing alt and iphotos i open an new photo library and stored the pics but now how can i get the pics which i had in the earlier photo please help me to recover my photos

Well I'll guess you're using iPhoto 11:
Option 1
Back Up and try rebuild the library: hold down the command and option (or alt) keys while launching iPhoto. Use the resulting dialogue to rebuild. Choose to Repair Database. If that doesn't help, then try again, this time using Rebuild Database.
If that fails:
Option 2
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In early versions of Library Manager it's the File -> Rebuild command. In later versions it's under the Library menu.)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
Regards
TD

MacBook Conundrum

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