MacBook Pro 15" Battery Life Issue

I have a MacBook Pro 15", with a processor 2.4 GHz Intel Core i7 and memory 4 GB 1333 Mhz DDR3 running OS X 10.7.2. It was purchased only a week ago and I'm noticing horrible battery issues. I have checked Activity Monitor and nothing, even while I'm browsing the Internet is using a large amount of CPU, so I'm a bit confused. I know that this is an issue that many people are facing as I can see from all the other discussions. Has anybody found a solution to this issue at this point, or has Apple released any information about an update ot fix the issue, anything at all? Just pretty disappointed since I came from an early 2008 MacBook Pro which had about a 4 hour battery life and was expecting a new Mac with 7 hours at least. Thanks everyone for the help, sorry for a question that I'm sure every is sick of.

Calibrating the battery is a slightly more specific process than Chris suggests. Instructions are here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1490
It's important to follow them to the letter, paying attention to the specified wait times after charging and discharging.

Similar Messages

Why doesn't the Macbook Pro's battery life last?

Why doesn't the Macbook Pro's battery life last anywhere near 5 hours, as advertised? This is my second one and it lasts 2. It's false advertising, and Apple doesn't seem to making a big deal or know anything about it, which i'm sure they do. Since their general practice is to deny problems exist in all their products, i'm here to make it known that the most recent Macbook Pro has a severe battery issue and it needs to be addressed.
I'm running OS X 10.8.3, Bluetooth is off, and haven't installed any third party software.

My MacBook Pro is over a year old and still gets 2.5 to 5 hours, depending on how intensively my application activity is hitting the CPU and disk. Remember that battery life depends on usage and component loads. You could get 1 hour editing HD video since it would hit all cores and slam the disk constantly, or 8 hours in a cabin in the woods with wifi and Bluetooth turned off, only writing text files, and with the backlight turned down and no disc in the drive. You should check Activity Monitor to make sure you don't have some processes using unusually high amounts of CPU for long periods of time (like browser tabs running Flash ads in the background, chewing up CPU and battery power without even being seen).
Like mende1 says, there are not huge numbers of Mac users getting only 2 hours, or the world would have heard about it by now and MacBook sales would be down. If you are only getting 2 hours there is something going on local to your machine or usage habits.
Terry Mele wrote:
Since their general practice is to deny problems exist in all their products
That's not strictly true. Apple has often announced updates or repair/exchange programs to address various problems that had come up over time. Maybe not always, but it does happen. They also have often helped me and my friends when we brought in Macs that were out of warranty and had problems. They had no legal obligation to work on our Macs for free, but they did anyway.

Just bought a mid 2012 13 in macbook pro. Battery life is only 3 hours. Thoughts?

Just bought a mid 2012 13 in macbook pro. Battery life is only 3 hours. I was under the impression that it would last 7 hours. This is with normal internet browsing and text editing. my brightness is not all the up and bluetooth is off. Thoughts?

im having the same problems, bought my 13" MacBook Pro last week and the battery is terrible on it, but i googled it and a lot of other people are having the same issues

Macbook Pro Retina battery life fix

My machine came with Mountain Lion 10.8.2 a few weeks ago. When battery was charged to 100%, I had about 2,5 hours of battery time remaining (as showed when clicking the battery icon on top of the screen). I did the procedure below and now I have between 5 and 7 hours. I'm yet to test the real life battery time.
Another user wrote that the problem is said to be created by a corrupt file created by Migration Assistant and that the file needed to be removed through the procedure below. Interestingly enough, I didn’t use Migration Assistant when setting up my machine (I think I opened Migration Assistant at one point just to check it out, but I didn’t use it to transfer any files or settings). Also, after doing the procedure, the file was still there, however with today’s date. Nevertheless it seems to have worked very well for me, so it may be a good idea to try the procedure even if you have never used Migration Assistant.
Before doing the procedure, I took a copy of the file in case I later would regret deleting it and want to restore it. Open Finder. While holding down the Alt key click on the Go menu and select Library (if you don’t hold down the Alt key, Library won’t show on the menu). From the Library folder, open the Preferences folder. Then copy (but in my opinion don’t remove) the file com.apple.desktop.plist to another place that you can remember. It might be a good idea not to delete this file directly from Finder, since after I had completed the procedure, the file was still to be found in the Preferences folder (with today’s date).
The procedure:
In this procedure, leave out all quote marks “ “
Open Terminal (by going to the Applications folder and from there the Utilities folder and from there opening Terminal).
On the keyboard type “cd ~/Library/Preferences/” and hit Enter.
Now type “rm com.apple.desktop.plist” and hit Enter again.
Finally, type “killall Dock” and hit Enter.
After doing this I restarted my machine and let the battery go down to 0 % in order to then charge it up to 100 %.
Kristoffer

Did this work for you?
Why do all the reviews out there (MacWorld, Engadget, etc.) claim they have 7 hours and we all end up with 2-4 hours. I think all the media is focused on selling products for Apple and do no really do any testing of their own.
Shame that even the guy who sold me this laptop 4 days ago claimed that I should get 6-7 hours of battery life and all I have seen so far is 2 maybe 3 hours at most.

Late 2011 macbook pro 13" battery life not good

I can leave my laptop plugged in all night turned off, and in the morning it only has 99% battery. It seems to quickly discharge. After about an hour an a half, I am down to 50%. I bought this computer in October. I has intel core i7 with 4GB 1333 MHz DDR3 memory. This does not seem normal. If it is in sleep mode, the battery will drain over night if not plugged in. That also does not seem right. I appreciate any help.
Here is the system info:
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number: deleted
Manufacturer:          SMP
Device Name:          bq20z451
Pack Lot Code:          0
PCB Lot Code:          0
Firmware Version:          201
Hardware Revision:          000a
Cell Revision:          158
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):          2908
Fully Charged:          No
Charging:          No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):          5454
Health Information:
Cycle Count:          35
Condition:          Normal
Battery Installed:          Yes
Amperage (mA):          -1922
Voltage (mV):          11176
System Power Settings:
AC Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          16
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          5
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Wake on LAN:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
PrioritizeNetworkReachabilityOverSleep:          0
RestartAfterKernelPanic:          15
Standby Delay:          4200
Standby Enabled:          0
Battery Power:
System Sleep Timer (Minutes):          5
Disk Sleep Timer (Minutes):          10
Display Sleep Timer (Minutes):          5
Wake on AC Change:          No
Wake on Clamshell Open:          Yes
Current Power Source:          Yes
Display Sleep Uses Dim:          Yes
Reduce Brightness:          Yes
RestartAfterKernelPanic:          15
Standby Delay:          4200
Standby Enabled:          0
Hardware Configuration:
UPS Installed:          No
AC Charger Information:
Connected:          No
Charging:          No

If the battery drains completely overnight when not plugged in, the machine is either not going to sleep at all or not staying asleep. That is not normal, and you need to figure out which is true and what's preventing the machine from sleeping. When the sleep light pulses, the machine is asleep. When the sleep light is on steadily, not pulsing, the display is asleep, but the computer is not. Before leaving the machine for the night tonight, make sure the sleep light is pulsing. Then note the light's status in the morning before you wake the computer. Post back with your findings.
An overnight drain from full to 99% while shut down is normal, because once the battery is fully charged, charging stops, and does not resume until the battery has gradually drained to below 95%. Whenever a battery isn't being charged, it is slowly losing its charge, even if nothing is connected to it at all. This is a fundamental property of batteries.
Battery runtime while the computer is in use depends entirely on what the computer is doing and on your user settings. The maximum battery-powered running times advertised by Apple can only be achieved if the machine is doing almost nothing and all energy-saving settings are maximized. To maximize running time on a charge, do all of the following:
Dim the screen as far as you can stand
Turn off keyboard backlighting
Turn off BlueTooth
Turn off Airport when it's not in use
Make sure you aren't using the discrete GPU, if your MBP has one
Disconnect all bus-powered peripheral devices: portable hard drives, iPhones, iPods, iPads, USB mice, USB trackpads and keyboards, graphics tablets, cameras, etc., etc.
Quit all applications that aren't in active use
Close all application windows and tabs that aren't in active use
When using wifi, avoid web sites that have Flash content, including advertisements
Don't use the optical drive
Don't stream multimedia content form the Web
If you can take all these steps and still get anything useful done, you may be able to get close to Apple's maximum running time estimate for your machine. In practice, very few of us can accomplish anything under these conditions, so we don't expect anything like maximum running time on a charge.

Macbook pro 2010 battery

My Macbook pro 2010 battery life is 0% and not charging now. Where can I buy the original battery to change?

Hi Shi,
iFixit.com is one place; this is for a 15". You don't say what size you have. http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/MacBook-Pro-15-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-2010-Batt ery/IF161-057
Also, just google 2010 MacBook Pro battery and you'll find more on eBay, etc.
Note that this is a built in battery and requires proper installation.

I am using an early 2008 MacBook Pro and am having issues with it deleting text on its own (in word, emails, etc.). As I am typing it all of a sudden starts deleting and I can't stop it. What can I do?

I am using an early 2008 MacBook Pro and am having issues with it deleting text on its own (in word, emails, etc.). As I am typing it all of a sudden starts deleting and I can't stop it. This happened once before and it was due to a buldging battery pressing on the track pad. I checked the battery and it appears to be fine. What can I do?

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. For instructions, launch the System Preferences application, select Help from the menu bar, and enter “Set up guest users” (without the quotes) in the search box. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.”
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your personal files or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
*Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Boot in safe mode* and log in to the account with the problem. The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Shut down your computer, wait 30 seconds, and then hold down the shift key while pressing the power button.
When you see the gray Apple logo, release the shift key.
If you are prompted to log in, type your password, and then hold down the shift key again as you click Log in.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs. The next normal boot may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
*Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of steps 1 and 2.

IPhone 4S Battery Life: Best solutions and procedures for 1st time user: 1-Do you have a battery life issue (learn first what the usage time spec is about) 2-What can you try to remedy the situation without reading 500 pages of posts

What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
Thank you and good luck!
General info and specs
First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge. The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
Optimize your settings
Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life. For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals. The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power. Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas. Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls. To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life. Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions. Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life. To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact. Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
Procedures
davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases. It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple. Good Luck!
ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the                 infrared is off after the reboot).
7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
* I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
If that doesn't work try :
Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
This is what I did:
1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
5. Add the iCloud account again.
That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
This is the MacRumors discussion:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ... tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
W. Raider tips (Sirii):
Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
Hope this is helpful!
Comments
jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac. I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud. The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x). Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone. It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification). I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file. I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync. I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that. My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi.    I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery. It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage. My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby. I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event. I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps. More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks that occur for the service on an os level not an app level. This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking. The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone. No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed. If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery. I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message. On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3 or 4 percent drop. On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop. Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain). For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info. I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable.
Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent. If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

TS4088 I have a MacBook pro that has power issues and will not start but the hardrive is fine. I do not want to lose all of my files so I was wondering if it's possible to transfer my hardrive from a older Macbook pro to a new one if I were to purchase o

I have a MacBook pro that has power issues and will not start but the hardrive is fine. I do not want to lose all of my files so I was wondering if it's possible to transfer my hardrive from a older Macbook pro to a new one if I were to purchase a new one? Also, the software is not updated as the computer hasn't worked for about 2 months.
Also, if it is possible to transfer the hardrive, would my iTunes music transfer as well? It is not saved in the cloud.
Thanks for your help, it is much appreciated.

You computer is probably perfectly repairable, but if you want a new one anyway, it is perfectly possible to transfer the data from the faulty one.
But it would be a mistake to simply put the old HD in the new computer.
These are the steps:
Remove Hard drive from faulty computer. (very easy on Unibody MBPs, do-able but not so easy on older MBPs)
Put it in a cheap enclosure
Connect it the new computer
Boot up new computer.
If the new computer has never been run before the Setup Assistant will ask if you want to import your apps, data, settings etc from either another mac, another HD connected to the Mac or a Time Machine back up.
Obviously chose the second option (another HD connected to this Mac) and follow prompts.
If the new computer has already been run (so Setup Assistant doesn't run when you boot it up), you will need to use Migration Assistant...or run the installer again so that Setup Assistant runs again.
Message was edited by: Mike Boreham...added sec on line

Odd battery life issues after improvement w/ 5.1

I have an iPhone 4 GSM (AT&T) that was experiencing significant battery life issues with the previous version of iOS (5.0.1?).
After updating to iOS 5.1, the battery life improved signifcantly - I could now get comfortably through a day with 50% remaining at bedtime versus 20%.
In the last couple weeks the battery life started getting worse and worse, to the point where I could barely get home from work and it would be 10-20%. I started to pare back the settings like Location Services, notifications, frequency of email checking, etc. with no improvement. I noticed the phone seemed to be running warmer than usual, so I thought there may be some software issue causing an infinite loop...
I Reset Network Settings as I've heard that can help - no difference. Then I wiped the iPhone and restored from backup - no difference. Finally I wiped the iPhone and set up as New, only installing a few apps and being very conservative with push, GPS settings etc. I am still down to 20% by 5 pm, and this is with light use. Wifi is on all the time, which is what I primarily use, but it never caused this much drain.
It's also quite variable - the other day I made it home with about 70% battery life, but then it dropped 25% in 30 minutes with only light usage (email/web).
Is the battery itself going bad, and/or is there any way I can test it? I got this phone as a warranty replacement (probably a refurb) in July 2011 so I don't think the battery is that old.

Just an update. I totally wiped my iPhone 4, and turned everything off including keeping it in Airplane Mode and it seemed to help a little - it was over 80% at noon without any use. Of course, the phone is useless like this. As soon as I turned wifi on at work (still left the cellular radio off) it started dropping fast.
It must be the battery going bad, but I was just wondering if there are any other suggestions. I don't want to pay to get a new battery installed if I don't have to, since by this fall I will be eligible to upgrade to iPhone 5 if it comes out.

Macbook Pro w/ Retina Display Issues with Wifi with Bluetooth.

I have a Macbook Pro with Retina Display, 2.3 Ghz model. I've noticed that while on wifi, when I use a bluetooth mouse or even turn on bluetooth on my computer, the wifi performance severely decreases for a short period of time. While using a bluetooth mouse the wifi intermittently fails and I need to shut off wifi and turn it back on to correct the issue.
Using the ping utility on terminal I have confirmed this in that when bluetooth is turned on, a large number of packets are lost for about ten seconds.
Has anyone else been experiencing this problem and is this an issue I can correct myself or should I contact Apple?
Thanks

I have the same issue with my macbook pro with retina display. I have 2 macbook pros. I never would of thought that a bluetooth signal was interfering with both of them. I had a gateway wireless router that only had 2.4 Ghz 802.11 b/g, which is the same frequency of bluetooth. I know that bluetooth bounces from channel to channel, whereas wifi sticks to one constant channel (normally). I have reinstalled my mac twice, thinking that somehow my drivers were corrupted. This was false becuase everytime I reinstalled it did the same thing, Act fine for 5-10 minutes and randomly the internet connection would freeze up all together for 10-20 seconds. I have also tried contacting apple multiple times and they tried to do a smc and pram reset. They also tried to get rid of my chaches in my computer. It all seemed to be fine, and then when I got off the phone it would act us once more.
     I have read numerous articles to try and fix the situation; one of them was to try change the location of the network and change the MTU size. No help. I called At&T (my internet provider) and got a new router and that did work for a while. But eventually acted up again. The router was still 2.4 GHz 802.11 b/g. I read this article and found out that my Magic Mouse might be causing the issue. Turns out to be true. Everytime I would browser the internet or browse the itunes store and it would freeze, i would immediatly turn the bluetooth off and what do you know, it works!!! This is a huge dissapointment in apple however. It seems to be only a macbook pro w/ retina display issue. My other macbook pro only acts up when i'm using my newer one (something is wrong with the bluetooth and wifi in the retina for the 2.4 ghz frequencies.
     I just got a Airport express, and have not experienced this issue what so ever. This is due to the fact that it is a dual band wireless router. It supports 2.4Ghz and 5 Ghz both at 802.11 a/b/g/n which is a major improvement compared to what I had. I use the 5Ghz frequency and have no issues still.
     This is still an issue however because if I want to go out and use anothers persons wifi, I can't control their frequency. So I will still have this issue.

MacBook Pro - After Battery dies I'm not able to type in login window, until forcing a restart

Hi, as mentioned in the header : MacBook Pro - After Battery dies I'm not able to type in login window, until forcing a restart
After the battery drains to 0% the computer switches off.... *Makes sense*
Once I put the charger power chord back in for an extended period of time I hit the power button and then see the login screen.... *Makes sense*
However it won't let me type into the login box therefore having to force a restart and lose any saved data or data open when it died of battery. *WEIRD*
This happens every time my computer runs out of battery. I understand that obviously not letting the laptop die is a good idea, however it seems like there is something wrong as it allows me to login yet won't let me type anything...
Any solutions? Anyone else experience this?
I have an early 2012 MacBook Pro - 15 Inch Screen.

Hi s4mboy,
Thanks for visiting Apple Support Communities.
I'd start with resetting the SMC and PRAM on the MacBook Pro:
Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
OS X Mountain Lion: Reset your computer’s PRAM
http://support.apple.com/kb/ph11243
Cheers,
Jeremy

Need to get a new MacBook Pro 17" Battery..ideas?

Hello all,
A few days back my MacBook Pro's battery died and I noticed it was swelled up pretty bad.
Needless to say, I desperatley need to get a new battery (MacBook Pro 17 " battery, id A1189), but am a wee bit scared to fork out £100, plus money is a wee bit tight right now.
I'd like to know if anyone here knows of anywhere where I could get a replacemnt battery at a good price? I'm based in London so it would have to be in the UK.
I've googled my brains out and found that Duracell Direct to a replacement at £74.
Any advice or directions to a trusted, decent priced vendor would be great
Regards,
Rik

One thing to try is to make an appointment at the genius bar and ask them about the battery. Take both it and your Mac in. There used to be a program called "Battery Update" that replaced swollen batteries, but it is no longer in effect. However, Apple has frequently been very generous about replacing swollen batteries or selling a replacement at a discount. They should also recycle the battery for you.
Whatever you do, remove the battery immediately and don't use it any more. It could cause permanent damage to your Mac. It may leak, so place it in a plastic bag so it can't damage anything.
It is entirely at Apple's discretion what they might do, but they did give me a free replacement for a 3 year old battery with 265 cycles on it. You have nothing to lose by asking--the worst they can do is say no.
If no joy, you might want to look at OWC's battery listings. I believe they ship to the UK, and they currently have some special deals along with their line of NuPower batteries. I bought a NuPower battery for my iBook, and it has performed very well. I've heard mixed reviews about other third party batteries, and have heard nothing whatsoever about anything by Duracell.
Good luck!

I have not yet enabled my firewall on my macbook pro-is this an issue?

I have not yet enabled my firewall on my macbook pro-is this an issue?

Mac OS X v10.5, 10.6: About the Application Firewall

Anyone else having battery life issues after installing Lion?

Anyone else having battery life issues after installing Lion?

Blue Sun Wing wrote:
I have 7.1
I think I would like to uninstall Lion as well. I'd rather have my battery life back.
See if this is helpful: http://www.iphone-my.com/mac/downgrading-lion-snow-leopard/

MacBook Pro 15" Battery Life Issue

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