MacBook Pro 15 Retina: Safe Operating Temperatures

Using iStat Menus I was able to check my Macbook pro temperature. On average I would get around 45c (113f) and when gaming I would get around 70c (158f) to 90c (194f) Is this too hot? Can anyone tell me what temperature is too hot?

also, does the machine get enough ventilation w the lid shut? what if i'm maxing out processor / ram / video and bootcamp?

Similar Messages

  • Macbook pro 13 retina early 2013 temperature and fan issue

    I bought early 2013 Retina 13' i7 two weeks ago. When I open the computer, the temperature of CPU is around 36 degree. When I just search the website, I find that the temperature is around 50 degree. And I also met the fan problems. It will goes up to 5000+ randomly.
    I just want to check about the temperature. Is 50 degree normal for a macbook pro?
    Thank you.

    Yes, for a Retina model. Provide for adequate ventilation when in use. Elevate the rear at least 3/4 to 1". Do not use the computer on your lap, beds, or other surfaces that are not solid like a desk or table.

  • Safe operating temperatures for macbook

    What is a safe operating temperatures for macbook? My processor runs as high as 170 degrees sometimes.

    Hi ..
    Help here >> Mac notebooks: Operating temperature

  • Can a macbook pro with retina run on older operating system

    Will older operating system like Mac OS X 10.5.8 work on macbook pro w/ retina.
    I have so many issues running on Mountain Lion and was planning to go back to older version.
    Any suggestion?
    Thanks.

    Older versions of Mac OS than what comes with your computer 

  • Macbook pro w/ retina Temperature normal or not?

    I got a brand new Macbook pro with retina about 4 days ago with the following specs: 13 inch 16GB ram i7 (the best upgraded 13 inch laptop). I noticed that the top right of my keyboard (above the power button) is getting slightly warm. The temperature using temperature gauge displays 45 degrees (for CPU) when the laptop is just turned on. The only app I downloaded so far is Skype, which is not even logged in.
    The temperature goes up to 50-55 while browsing the internet (Safari). Right now (while I'm writing this), it is 48 degrees with 1289 RPM.
    I wouldn't say the laptop is hot... I would say it is warm. However, when playing some games, it does go up to 65 to 70 (sometimes even 75), and the surface does get hot. The laptop is on a table, I don't use it on my bed or pillow or anything.
    Could someone who have the same laptop maybe download the app and check what their temperatures are like? And whether or not this is a big issue.
    Thank you

    I'd strongly recommend to go with the refurb model because of the dedicated graphics card. You are saving $40, getting dedicated graphics card, and a 0.4 ghz boost.
    Now the 0.4 ghz isn't necessarily the biggest factor here, but the GT 650m sure is.

  • When is the safe time to buy a Macbook Pro with retina display

    Hi,
    I saw some issues lately with Macbook Pro with retina display in discussion and it seems the number is increasing. It might be a bad batch. I want to order one and I have to do it online (because of a student discount) and it's going to be hard for returning and swapping.
    How long should I wait to have more stable MBPR out there to order one? Or it's not like that and bad batch could happened anytime.
    Thanks

    Thanks for reply guys,
    About student discount, I'm currently at Malaysia and there is one store in our University which has student discount and he said he's not going to have retina display in his store anytime soon. So I have to order online which it lets me order from education store easily and btw I want to upgrade the RAM to 16G.
    And yes you were right about this place and the numbers of people with problems. I did use 14-day return policy once it was so easy and awesome. Then there is no worry here and I can order mine too.
    Thanks again

  • DO I need Anti-Virus for my Macbook Pro w/Retina Display?

    I am currently awaiting a MacBook Pro w/Retina Display and I am having an ongoing discussion with some work colleagues, since the Flashback Trojan appeared to infiltrate Mac's back in early 2012... DO I need Anti-Virus.. My argument is no, but everybody elses is yes!
    I would love to see some indepth feedback to send my PC lovers running!
    Thanks in advance.
    Regards,
    Joe

    1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
    2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
    The following caveats apply to XProtect:
    It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
    It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
    3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
    Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
    It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
    A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
    For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
    4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
    That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
    Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "archive extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
    A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
    Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software are likely to be infected.
    Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet newsgroup is unsafe.
    Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
    5. Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install one unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
    Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
    6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, even supposing that they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
    Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
    Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
    In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
    By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
    7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
    ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. Windows malware attachments in email are almost always easy to recognize without computer assistance.
    8. The greatest danger posed by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is its effect on human behavior. When people install such software, which does little or nothing to protect them from emerging threats, they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
    9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

  • MacBook Pro with Retina Running Out of Space

    Hi there.
    I have a MacBook Pro with retina running OS X mavericks. Recently I have taken a look into "about this Mac" and found that I am running out of space (Picture Bellow). I found that most of my space is in Apps and I am trying to find where they are on my Mac HD. By going to the Macintosh HD the fallowing had this much space taken up "Applications (9.69GB), Library (4.74GB), System (5.7GB), User INFO (49 bytes), and Users (71.89GB) “. I found that Users (71.89GB)-> Pictures(58.91GB) is taking up most of the space but that accounts for Movies (46.91GB) and Photos (12.12GB) but not Apps. Where else should I look for the 90GB Apps or is it just the OS taking up this space?
    Thank you

    If the Storage display seems to be inaccurate, try rebuilding the Spotlight index.
    Empty the Trash if you haven't already done so. If you use iPhoto, empty its internal Trash first:
              iPhoto ▹ Empty Trash
    Do the same in other applications, such as Aperture, that have an internal Trash feature.
    According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation. You're in no danger of running out.
    See this support article for some simple ways to free up storage space.
    You can more effectively use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper (ODS) or GrandPerspective (GP) to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the space. You can also delete files with it, but don't do that unless you're sure that you know what you're deleting and that all data is safely backed up. That means you have multiple backups, not just one. Note that ODS only works with OS X 10.8 or later. If you're running an older OS version, use GP.
    Deleting files inside an iPhoto or Aperture library will corrupt the library. Any changes to a photo library must be made from within the application that created it. The same goes for Mail files.
    Proceed further only if the problem isn't solved by the above steps.
    ODS or GP can't see the whole filesystem when you run it just by double-clicking; it only sees files that you have permission to read. To see everything, you have to run it as root.
    Back up all data now.
    If you have more than one user account, make sure you're logged in as an administrator. The administrator account is the one that was created automatically when you first set up the computer.
    Install the app you downloaded in the Applications folder as usual. Quit it if it's running.
    Triple-click anywhere in the corresponding line of text below on this page to select it, then copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C:
    sudo /Applications/OmniDiskSweeper.app/Contents/MacOS/OmniDiskSweeper
    sudo /Applications/GrandPerspective.app/Contents/MacOS/GrandPerspective
    Launch the built-in Terminal application in any of the following ways:
    ☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
    ☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
    ☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
    Paste into the Terminal window by pressing command-V. You'll be prompted for your login password, which won't be displayed when you type it. Type carefully and then press return. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you see a message that your username "is not in the sudoers file," then you're not logged in as an administrator. Ignore any other messages that appear in the Terminal window.
    The application window will open, eventually showing all files in all folders, sorted by size. It may take a few minutes for the app to finish scanning.
    I don't recommend that you make a habit of doing this. Don't delete anything as root. If something needs to be deleted, make sure you know what it is and how it got there, and then delete it by other, safer, means. When in doubt, leave it alone or ask for guidance.
    When you're done with the app, quit it and also quit Terminal.

  • HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?

    I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.

    To add just a little
    Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
    And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
    "Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
    General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
    Never drain them LOW  & dont always/often store them HIGH
    While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
    *A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge. 
    DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count.  *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                              (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
    *Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
    *However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
    Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                        This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
    LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
    A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
    Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
    The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
    Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
    Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
    From Apple on batteries:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
    http://www.apple.com/batteries/
    Storing your MacBook
    If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
    Considerations:
    Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
    In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
    Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
    Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance.  Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery. 
    Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
    Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
    Peace

  • Should I get a 13" or 15" Macbook Pro with retina laptop?

    I, FINALLY, after one year of wanting to get a new laptop to use as my primary computer replacing my desktop computer at home.........have decided to switch gears from a Windows computer to a MACBOOK PRO with RETINA laptop. It's not an easy decision when you are spending SO much money on something you hope will last a long time as I do NOT plan on getting a new laptop once I buy this one for a very long time (until it breaks / can no longer function)!
    My dilemma now is whether to go with the high end 13" Macbook Pro OR get a similar if not higher end 15" Macbook Pro. Here's background on myself and what I plan on using the laptop for:
    I plan on using it as my new primary computer for home so primarily for my personal use, but I will be using it also for work so I will be using it for basically EVERYTHING!
    I will use it to do word processing (MS Word), to do my finances (reconcile my bank stmts/accounts), using MS Excel for accounting work, check my emails, research the Internet, photo editing (pretty much basic, definitely not advanced) and creating slideshows with my photos/music, downloading/playing music. I do not plan on using it to play any games.
    I use alot of MS Office / Excel and some Powerpoint - either for work or home.
    I need alot of storage space for photos (recreational - up to 400 per vacation trip) and I plan on creating slideshows with the photos using Apple's great photo/video/slideshow apps! At last count, I had about 100GB of photo files.
    I also need alot of storage for my music files - I have @ least 12GB of music right now and am always downloading more each year.
    I plan on taking it with me outside of home only on the weekends for the most part like to a cafe (Starbucks) or library, but not for anything further than that (not for travel as I will just take my ipad).
    I know it's only ~1lb difference in weight, but a couple of my concerns is since it will be my primary home computer (i.e.I'll be using it in the evenings/on the weekends and probably more (since it's an Apple!) to work on photos/slideshows, if the screen size difference will matter in the longrun in terms of having any impact on my vision (not sure if the 2" will make a difference in that). I'm only 45yo, but I do worry about that!  I tried both the 13" and 15" in the Apple store and the only difference I saw was that the 15" screen allowed you to have multiple programs visible on the screen side by side, but viewing the actual programs was the same (in size). I don't really view programs side by side right now (I use the ALT-TAB shortcut alot to view multiple programs I have open at once), but I could see how having programs viewable side by side could come in handy.
    I had a Toshiba 17" laptop before that was too HEAVY to lug around even if on the weekend so I no longer want a heavy laptop and want something more portable to take with me on my weekend excursions to the local cafe/library which basically means going from home to car and car to location at most, but when I go to use the restroom, I like to take it with me (do not feel safe leaving it behind on table) so I don't want it too heavy.
    I do plan on getting me a Western Digital external hard drive to backup ALL my files yet since I plan on keeping the computer for as long as it'll hold up, I want to make sure I have alot of storage to keep up with me. I like the flashdrive component because there are fewer moving parts so less likely to have problems in the long run and given that (despite my need for alot of storage), I'll backup my photos/music to external drives should I end up maxing out on my storage.
    I value your opinions, please help me DECIDE!!!!! I'm frustrated and it's driving me nuts!!! I know it's too much to ask, but if they had a 14", I would probably go with it!  A 2" difference seems pretty big. :-)
    THANK YOU!!!

    Thanks guys. I'm set on the 15" now and am now deciding on whether I should go with the standard MBP or the MBP with retina display? I'm not an advanced photographer, but I do like to take alot of photos especially when travelling and I do plan on creating slideshows with my photos synched with music. I don't think I'd be one to really be able to tell the difference between a retina vs. non-retina screen given that since I can't really tell the difference between a tv screen with vs. without HD. So for me, I don't think it'd be about the retina display at all. It is more about the storage capacity AND the fact that I hear with the retina/flash storage, that there are less apt to have problems down the road so a more sturdy a machine.  Given I take alot of photos/will be creating slideshows wth my photos, and downloading/playing music, I'm thinking the standard MBP might be better storage-wise. But also given I plan on keeping this laptop for a long time (basically, until it breaks or becomes too slow to function productively), that makes me want to go the retina/flash storage route. SIGH.
    Should I not be so concerned about the longevity of the machine, but rather opt for the one with more storage? 

  • How to Install Windows 8.1 on MacBook Pro with Retina Display Using Boot Camp?

    Hello,
    I own a MacBook Pro with Retina Display and was wondering how do I install Windows 8.1 without an optical disc drive? I have bought the full version of Windows 8.1 and would like to partition it on my MacBook Pro. Could someone please help me out by posting step-by-step procedure or a video on how to do it? It is my first time partitioning the Windows operating system and would like to clarify with the community on this before I install it.
    Thanks in advance for those who have helped!

    Windows 8.1 is not yet supported by Boot Camp. The best way currently to install Windows 8.1 is to use a virtual machine like Parallels, Fusion, or VirtualBox. Installation instructions are on the Parallels, Fusion, and VirtualBox site.

  • Windows XP on macbook pro with retina display?

    I am going to be helping a client with putting Windows XP on a brand new Macbook Pro with retina display later this week.
    This client has two programs that are XP-specific, and MUST be run by booting XP fully and not virtually with Parallels or other options.
    So we are going to be using bootcamp.
    We have the XP install disc, and an external USB CD/DVD drive from Apple.
    I've found postings online about people installing more recent flavors of Windows (Vista, 7, etc) on these machines
    but I haven't found anything about Windows XP on the MBPro with retina display.
    Anyone have any tips to share?
    This should still be possible and not a big problem, right?
    Yes, I know the resolution will likely be the biggest issue, but it should still install and run, yes?
    Thank you for any helpful info anyone can provide.

    First off there are no programs that are XP specific and no programs, that I know of or ever heard of, that can not run in XP in a virtual machine.
    Most all programs that will run on XP will run on Win 7, unless they are older programs. Those older program that will run on XP and not on Vista or 7 will also run on Win 2000 or 98SE. So as stated before I don't know of any programs that will only run on XP and no other operating system.
    A Virtual Machine is Just That, IE a set of Virtual hardware. The Operating system has No Idea it is running in a Virtual Machine on top of a Host operating system. They are completely separate except for the VM using some of the physical hadware in the host computer. Like the USB ports, the network interfaces and the CD/DVD drive. And the VM software is made to allow those devices to look like they are part of a Physical computer the VM OS is running on.
    So I have not idea what these programs could be that would not run on/in a Virtual Machine with XP Installed.
    Please let me know for future reference.
    So your options are.
    1) Install a Virtual Machine software program. VMware Fusion, Parallels or Virtualbox. Then install Win XP into a Virtual Machine.
    2) Buy and older Windows computer that will run XP natively. It doesn't need to be that old, 3-4 years old will do as most all major PC manufacturers have XP drivers for their 3-4 year old computers and most if not all hardware manufacturers, Vid cards, Ethernet & WiFi cards, still list drivers for XP.

  • Installing Windows XP on a new MacBook Pro with Retina Display.

    I just purchased a new MacBook Pro with Retina display and need to install Windows XP on it so that I may run 3 Windows programs.  I have watched a few videos on the internet on how to do this through Boot Camp Assistant, and it says at one point to use the driver CD from Mac to install the drivers.  I did not get any CD's with my new MacBook Pro.  I also saw on some of these boards that said Boot Camp does not support Windows XP.  The people at the Apple store said it can run Windows XP, so I have ordered an original version. 
    Question 1.  Does my MacBook Pro with Retina Display running OS X version 10.8.3 able to run Windows XP?
    Question 2.  How do I install the drivers?

    Would this work? And also, what is the VM I need?  Where do I get it?
    Microsoft Windows XP Pro - The Professional Choice
    Although replaced by Microsoft Windows Vista, Microsoft Windows XP Pro remains the most popular and widely used operating system in the world for business computer applications. While Microsoft Windows Vista does offer some cosmetic improvements and a few new features, nothing can beat Microsoft Windows XP when is comes to performance, stability and, in the case of older computers, speed.
    Windows XP Professional delivers a reliable foundation you can count on to keep your computer up and running when you need it most. Not only the operating system is more reliable, it also offers features that make it much faster and easier to recover from system problems. Windows XP Professional, the new standard in reliability and performance, is designed for businesses of all sizes, and for individuals who demand the most from their computing experience. With the ultimate communication and collaboration tools, advanced laptop support, remote access capabilities, and more, Windows XP Professional helps you be more productive. Prepare yourself for the most reliable, secure, and responsive Windows yet. Windows XP Professional gives you the freedom to focus on your business and your customers.
    Package Includes:
    Coa Sticker Activation Key
    DVD Disk
    This software is 100% genuine and will validate with Microsoft. The software is new sealed OEM.
    System Requirements:
    AMD Athlon 64, AMD Opteron, Intel Xeon with Intel EM64T support, Intel Pentium 4 with Intel EM64T support CPUs, Core2Duo, Core2Quad, Intel I7
    256 MB of RAM
    1.5 GB of available hard disk space
    Super VGA (800 x 600) or higher-resolution video adapter and monitor
    CD-ROM or DVD drive
    Keyboard and Microsoft Mouse or compatible pointing device
    64-bit Device Drivers
    Package Includes: A genuine COA, genuine software cd with Dell brand logo and Product Key for activation. Although this product has the Dell brand on the CD, the software installs as a full version on any system and will activate with Microsoft. This is a Full OEM Version for a clean installation. This is the full product and will load on computers that do not currently have Windows. Or, if the computer already has Windows, this version will install over your previous version and delete all files to become a brand new clean version. This product includes the Microsoft CD and Activation Product Key with COA. Boxes and manuals are not included. The manual is on the genuine disk.
    Model: ZAT-00124
    Manufactured by: Microsoft

  • MacBook Pro 15" Retina display with distorted graphics.

    I have a MacBook Pro 15" Retina display purchased in Nov. 2014.  When surfing the net areas of the screen will sometimes begin to display distorted or blinking graphics.  The distoreded area are usually about 2" high by 3" long of either blinking text or filled many small rectangles of distorted graphics.  I ran diagnostics and no problems found.  Here is a link to a video of the problem.
    [URL=http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/bmwblock/Motorcycle/This%20One2_zps1ywf 85ms.mp4][IMG]http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t492/bmwblock/Motorcycle/This% 20One2_zps1ywf85ms.mp4[/IMG][/URL]
    Thanks
    DC
    Message was edited by: dalefromdeatsville

    Howdy dalefromdeatsville,
    Thanks for using the Apple Support Communities.
    To troubleshoot this issue where you're seeing graphical distortion on your Mac's display, please follow the instructions below.
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    Restart your computer.
    Apple computers: Troubleshooting issues with video on internal or external displays - Apple Support
    Cheers,
    Alex H.

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