Macbook pro 2012 - Thermal paste replacement time?

Hello!
My macbook pro mid-2012 is roughly 1 year old. I was wondering what is the recommended time frame to replace the thermal paste. With my old 2010 macbook I replaced the grease several years later, but I dont wanna make the same mistake again.
So how long do you guys think the crappy apple thermal paste can handle before the performance starts dropping and heat starts increasing?
On another note, I think it's common knowledge that factory thermal paste must be replaced in all notebooks/laptops, no matter the brand. However, I also heard that apple changed the manufacturing process after 2011, and all 2012 models had their thermal pastes decently applier. I'm not sure if thats just a rumor though.
What do you think?

Granted, this sort of thing likely voids your warranty (as you noted, it's not something Apple recommends or intends for the user to do). So you're certainly taking the chances into your own hands.
I suppose the best way to know would be to get an app or tool that can help you monitor the CPU temperature. Keep an eye on it, and if it starts to run hotter on a regular basis, consider cracking it open and "topping it off".

Similar Messages

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

Macbook Pro 2012 vs Retina Render time difference

Just purchased the 13-inch: 2.9GHz dual-core Intel Core i7 regular macbook pro.
With my budget of a $1700, should I get the 13-inch: 2.6GHz with Retina display Intel Core i5
instead for render work like After Effects? how big of a difference is render time??

Just purchased the 13-inch: 2.9GHz dual-core Intel Core i7 regular macbook pro.
With my budget of a $1700, should I get the 13-inch: 2.6GHz with Retina display Intel Core i5
instead for render work like After Effects? how big of a difference is render time??

PLEASE HELP me select new internal hard drive for Macbook Pro 2012 (non-retina)

Good afternoon.
I just bought a Macbook Pro 2012 (non-retina) 15 inch from a friend. I think it is running Mountain Lion (has not been upgraded to Mavericks yet), and has iLife on it. It came with the stock 500 gb 5400 rpm internal hard drive. At home, I only have the Snow Leopard OS installation Cds and a copy of iLife 2011 installation Cds. I am going to buy 16 gb of RAM from Other World Computing to install.
I want to replace the hard drive with a 1 tb hard drive, preferably something that is $100 or less.
I talked to Other World Computing (OWC) and looked at the Data Doubler Option to replace the optical drive with a Solid State drive, but decided that for now I want to keep the optical drive inside the computer for portability issues.
I know that Solid State drives are better, but they are still too small, and I want the ease and portability of a 1 tb size INSIDE my computer.
Initially I was going to order this from Other World Computing: 1.0TB 2.5" HGST Travelstar 7K1000 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s 9.5mm Notebook Drive 32MB Cache. *'New' Factory Replacement with 2+ Year HGST Warranty*    As of April 4, 2014 it's on sale for $79
But then I started reading some of the discussions online and thought maybe I should get a hybrid solid state drive?
I saw on Amazon the Seagate 1TB Solid State Hybrid Drive SATA 6Gbps 64MB Cache 2.5-Inch ST1000LM014 It's on sale for $94.
But according to some reviews, this Seagate has a platter that is only 5400rpm, unlike the previous Seagate Momentum that has a platter speed of 7200rpm.
How reliable are the Seagate, versus a Toshiba or Western Digital or Hitachi or something else?
Here are my questions about replacing the hard drive:
1. Is a hybrid solid state drive going to need some kind of special formatting after I put it into the macbook so that I can put the operating system on it?
2. Is a "normal" platter hard drive more reliable than a hybrid solid state drive?
3. Is there any additional driver or special software that I have to install for a hybrid solid state drive?
4. Currently there is no personal data stored on the computer. Can I just put the new hard drive in, and then insert the snow leopard install cd?
5. If I install snow leopard, can I just go to the App store and get the free upgrade to Mavericks?
6. If I want to do the "Data Doubler" option in the future and add a normal Solid State drive into my computer, will it have trouble interacting with the 1 tb hybrid solid state drive?
I would love to get some recommendations about the smartest option to upgrade my hard drive with something that will be fast (I edit lots of photos) and large (1 tb) that isn't going to cost too much. I don't know much about the different brands or options (and there are so many listed in tons of online reviews), that I got really overwhelmed and confused by the info out there.
I would really appreciate any help and advice. I've never switched out a hard drive before.
PLEASE HELP !!! Thanks!
Here is the "About this Mac" Info:
Macbook Pro 15-in Mid 2012
Model Identifier: MacBookPro9,1
Processor: 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory: 4 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Software: OS x 10.8.5
Storage (Hard drive): APPLE HDD ST500LM012 Media, Rotational, SATA, GPT (GUID Partition Table)

1. Is a hybrid solid state drive going to need some kind of special formatting after I put it into the macbook so that I can put the operating system on it?
The boot drive, regardless of what it is, needs to be formatted as Mac OS Extended (Journaled). This is standard with OS X.
2. Is a "normal" platter hard drive more reliable than a hybrid solid state drive?
There are arguments pro and con. Bottom line, SSD's and hybrid drives are still quite expensive per GB than standard hard drives. If you have the bucks and are a speed demon, go ahead.   I have better use for my money.   Standard hard drives are mechanical and may wear out over time. But even though SSDs are not mechancial, they can still go bad and ultimately they even have a limit to their write capacity. The jury is still out on this debate.
3. Is there any additional driver or special software that I have to install for a hybrid solid state drive?
No
4. Currently there is no personal data stored on the computer. Can I just put the new hard drive in, and then insert the snow leopard install cd?
You can physically put the hard drive in but probably not install Snow Leopard on this MBP.
The mid-2012 MacBookPro9,1 models came with Lion 10.7.3 (11D2097) preinstalled.   It is very unlikely you would be able to install Snow Leopard on it. Historically you cannot install a version of OS X that is earlier than the version that came with your Mac (even if you replace the hard drive).
5. If I install snow leopard, can I just go to the App store and get the free upgrade to Mavericks?
Not via Snow Leopard on this MBP. See my response to #4.
6. If I want to do the "Data Doubler" option in the future and add a normal Solid State drive into my computer, will it have trouble interacting with the 1 tb hybrid solid state drive?
No. They are completely independent of each other; they are just independent storage units (drives) and their RAM does not interact.

Why Does Retina MacBook Pro (2012) Suddenly Hibernate With Lid Open?

I'd like to know why my Retina MacBook Pro (2012) at certain times suddenly go into Hibernate mode when I'm actively using it with the lid open and what I can do to prevent this.
I know this is hibernate because of what I see in the Console logs and the fact that I can't trigger a wake by using the keyboard/trackpad/mouse. Only the power button causes it to wake up.
This usually happens when I wake it from sleep and plug it into an external monitor via HDMI to HDMI connection.   The lid is open and I use both displays.    This happens about 30 seconds to a minute after I wake from sleep. At the time I'm not plugged into the power supply because I believe it's generally a good idea to let the batter drain and the recharge it. The last time this happened it was about 35% to 40% charged.
Hardware Overview:
Model Name:    MacBook Pro
Model Identifier:    MacBookPro10,1
Processor Name:    Intel Core i7
Processor Speed:    2.6 GHz
Number of Processors:    1
Total Number of Cores:    4
L2 Cache (per Core):    256 KB
L3 Cache:    6 MB
Memory:    8 GB
Software:
OS X Yosemite (all latest updates installed)
{some 3rd party software}
Let me know if you need more information.
For the gory details of what I see in system.log, read on:
This is about the time the hibernate happens. I've replaced my laptop's name with {COMPUTER NAME}
Mar 20 18:29:26 {COMPUTER NAME} identityservicesd[375]: <IMMacNotificationCenterManager: 0x7f87d510c9e0>: notification observer: com.apple.iChat   notification: __CFNotification 0x7f87d5210a90 {name = _NSDoNotDisturbEnabledNotification}
Mar 20 18:29:26 {COMPUTER NAME} identityservicesd[375]: <IMMacNotificationCenterManager: 0x7f87d510c9e0>:    NC Disabled: NO
Mar 20 18:29:26 {COMPUTER NAME} identityservicesd[375]: <IMMacNotificationCenterManager: 0x7f87d510c9e0>:   DND Enabled: YES
Mar 20 18:29:26 {COMPUTER NAME} identityservicesd[375]: <IMMacNotificationCenterManager: 0x7f87d510c9e0>: Updating enabled: NO   (Topics: (null))
Mar 20 18:29:26 {COMPUTER NAME} WindowServer[218]: device_generate_desktop_screenshot: authw 0x7fba81c2e940(2000), shield 0x7fba81c35bd0(2001)
Mar 20 18:29:27 --- last message repeated 1 time ---
Mar 20 18:29:27 {COMPUTER NAME} WindowServer[218]: device_generate_lock_screen_screenshot: authw 0x7fba81c2e940(2000)[0, 0, 1920, 1080] shield 0x7fba81c35bd0(2001), dev [1920,1080]
Mar 20 18:29:27 {COMPUTER NAME} com.apple.xpc.launchd[1] (com.apple.xpc.launchd.domain.user.502): Service "com.apple.xpc.launchd.unmanaged.loginwindow.72" tried to hijack endpoint "com.apple.tsm.uiserver" from owner: com.apple.SystemUIServer.agent
Mar 20 18:29:30 --- last message repeated 1 time ---
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: PM response took 4741 ms (30, powerd)
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: ARPT: 1632.007298: AirPort_Brcm43xx::powerChange: System Sleep
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: ARPT: 1632.007302: wl0: powerChange: *** BONJOUR/MDNS OFFLOADS ARE NOT RUNNING.
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: [0x1b014fb000, 0x19000000]
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: [0xd8ec7000, 0x19000000]
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: [0x1369ac0000, 0xe000000]
Mar 20 18:29:30 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: [0x0, 0x0]
Mar 20 18:29:31 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: hibernate image path: /var/vm/sleepimage
And when I wake it up by repeatedly pressing the power button:
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: hibernate_newruntime_map time: 0 ms, IOHibernatePollerOpen(), ml_get_interrupts_enabled 0
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: IOHibernatePollerOpen(0) 19 ms
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: hibernate_machine_init reading
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: PMStats: Hibernate read took 355 ms
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: hibernate_machine_init pagesDone 212628 sum2 2c66736a, time: 355 ms, disk(0x20000) 447 Mb/s, comp bytes: 57749504 time: 55 ms 985 Mb/s, crypt bytes: 157388800 time: 67 ms 2228 Mb/s
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: Wake reason: EC.PowerButton (User)
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: vm_compressor_fastwake_warmup (7450 - 12878) - starting
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: Previous sleep cause: -60
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: Previous shutdown cause: 5
Mar 20 18:30:09 {COMPUTER NAME} kernel[0]: AppleThunderboltNHIType2::prePCIWake - power up complete - took 0 us

This happened again at about 31% power, again unplugged.   Previously, I had plugged in the power before pressing the power button, but this time I pressed the power button before plugging in. The display showed me the out of power icon. Only on plugging it back in was I able to power up the laptop again.
Is it possible there's a bug either with the displayed power or how remaining power is detected?

Macbook pro 2012 shuts down right after start up!

macbook pro 2012 shuts down right after start up. I tried the recovery mode but disk doctor cannot repair Mac osX hard drive.This is the second time that I have to format hard drive and install agin all applications. please advise!

I am not familiar with "disk doctor" but if you used Disk Utility to repair or reformat the hard disk, and it failed again, it is very likely the drive itself needs to be replaced. It cannot be repaired.
If Disk Utility cannot repair a hard disk it definitely needs replacement.
All 2012 MacBook Pro models are less than a year old and therefore covered under Apple's standard one year warranty. Have them fix it.

I clicked on iMessage on my Macbook Pro today for the first time, and now NOTES keeps opening up every 5 seconds, with a new note. I cannot stop it from opening. If I close it or force close, it opens again in 5 seconds. I can't get rid of it. I have

I clicked on iMessage on my Macbook Pro today for the first time, and now NOTES keeps opening up every 5 seconds, with a new note. I cannot stop it from opening. If I close it or force close, it opens again in 5 seconds. I can't get rid of it. I have tried to clear out the iMessage settings I had put in, and I've tried to adjust the Accounts to not include notes to synch. But, Notes will not stop. It opens a new note, and even if you ignore it, it assumes preference every 5 seconds, and the Mac is impossible to use.

Do you have any Boot Camp or other secondary partitions set up on your system? If so then try running a disk verification routine (chkdsk, etc.) in Windows to repair the disk. While I've not heard of it happening recently, in the past errors in these partitions have resulted in stubborn ghost files appearing in OS X.

Can I change mi Macbook pro 2012 to a new one, because my fan died during an update?

Well the other day I was using my Macbook Pro 2012 (not the retina) and I made an update soy leave my Mac during the update because I went downstairs for dinner, but when I went to se my Mac it make a strange sound on the fan, so I scared a lot and I download a program to see how my fan was doing and it sayed "0 rpm". My fan died during the update.
So my question is, Can I change my Mac to another one?

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
First, make a SMC reset > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
If it doesn't work, the fan is defective. If you take the MacBook Pro to an Apple Store, Apple will try to repair the defective part, so you shouldn't need a new MacBook. However, if your MacBook Pro doesn't work correctly after replacing fans, Apple might give you a new Mac

How can I fix my Superdrive slot on my MacBook Pro 2012?

I installed a brand new SSD in my MacBook Pro 2012 yesterday. To do this, I cloned my [then] existing HDD to it using SuperDuper!. Now, my DVD slot won't accept discs. I tried opening DVD player and it said that "a valid DVD drive could not be found". I plugged in my old HDD and booted up from that, and tried again, but to no avail. Is this something wrong with my Superdrive or something? Or is my OS corrupt? Could my Superdrive be burnt out?

Uh oh, and that even before the warranty is over...
If I were you (well... not really...), I'd pick my MBP from here, then do as if I were to replace "everything optical drive and cable" -- except I'd replace the existing gear with itself. Slowly, step by step, and veeeery carefully.
If it doesn't work then, maybe the next AASP isn't that far away, at least.

How do I secure erase macbook pro 2012 retina for resale

How do I secure/erase and set to factory settings 15" Macbook Pro 2012 retina) for resale?

Install or Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion from Scratch
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Erase the hard drive:
1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
2. After DU loads select your startup volume (usually Macintosh HD) from the
      left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
3. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Optionally, click on
        the Security button and set the Zero Data option to one-pass. Click on
      the Erase button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Install button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.
Be sure you disable or turn off iCloud. Deauthorize the computer in iTunes. Remove any Firmware Passwords you may have configured. Turn off FileVault if enabled.
What to do with iCloud before selling your computer

Does the Macbook Pro (2012) have a dvd drive? I can't seem to find one.

Does the Macbook Pro (2012) have a dvd drive? I can't seem to find one.

Not the MBP-R's, you can't even change the RAM or storage in them.
The other 15" MBP's you can and they include the Superdrive built in.
Last time you do a impulsive purchase huh?

New MacBook Pro 2012 with battery health at 92%

Hi everyone!
Few weeks ago I bought brand new MacBook Pro (2012, 13"). After 12 cycles the battery health significantly decreased to 92%. Quite unexpected, isn't? Could you advise me what can be a problem? AC adapter, socket in my wall or something else?
To answer your questions, I did not put the battery below 10% during this time.
Thanks in advance for any hints!

You have to take the computer to the Apple store to have it checked out.
Genius Bar reservation:
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
Best.

Macbook Pro 2012 or Macbook Air 2013

Hello,
I looking to buy a Apple Laptop but really confused to which one to get Macbook Pro 2012 or Macbook Air 2012. Here are is what I do:
Web Development (PHP, Python Django, Node.js, Tornado)
Photoshop (4 times in 10 uses)
Illustrator (1 time in 10 uses)
Web surfing
Need a good backup time (min of 3hrs)
Want a good performance
Will have it for 4 years

Photoshop (4 times in 10 uses)
Illustrator (1 time in 10 uses)
When you use these, you'll be thankful you got a Pro.
Web development
Web surfing
Both are about equal. Some game performance may be better on a Pro, especially if it uses the graphics chip.
Need a good backup time (min of 3hrs)
Don't you mean max? A lot is dependent on how much data you have to backup and whether you choose to clone or use Time Machine. Clones are faster the second go around. Time Machine can be fast, but if you use it for archival, you'll be spending time turning off Time Machine, and archiving necessary to keep archives off the Time Machine drive. And Time Machine needs at least twice the capacity of your original, where clones only need the original.
Want a good performance
Pro is invariably better performance than Air.
Will have it for 4 years
Both only get a warranty up to three years if purchased within the first year from date of computer purchase.
http://www.safeware.com/ offers insurance, but not warranty.
Some credit card companies extend manufacturer warranty. Check if yours does.

Airport card broken on MacBook Pro 2012, alternatives for wifi?

Hello All,
I dropped my MacBook Pro 2012 and immediately it said that Airport Card is not installed, nor Bluetooth. I took it to Apple Service and after they looked at it, they told me the entire logic board will need to be replaced in order to fix it. Obviously I won't be forking out 700 euros for a new one when I can just get a new MacBook eventually, I was just hoping to get a few more months out of it.
My question is can I use a wireless usb adapter to pick up wifi, or an airport express? I bought today a D-Link Wireless adapter usb and it is not installing for some reason. I have IOS X Mavericks 10.9.5 If I use the Airport Express how do I go about setting this up?
Thanks for any help, I am fairly confused at this point!

You need to buy a USB wireless that is Mac compatible.. and it must have drivers available for Mavericks.. not just Mac compatible.. It is not easy to find them but look on ebay.. just search usb wireless mac.
You must double check though.. DWA-125 proclaims itself as mac compatible.. that means.
(Mac OS X, 10.4.X, 10.5.X, 10.6.X)
Mavericks made a big jump as did Lion and apparently so does Yosemite.. do don't expect drivers will jump out at you. I have tried lots of USB sticks and they seldom work.
Many companies lie.. or bend the truth and they say Mac compatible and mean.. up to snow leopard.
or an airport express?
Yes, you can use an express.. but not by USB.. that means on a MBPr you will need to buy a Thunderbolt to ethernet adapter (forget the USB one.. it is 2.0 useless junk).. as well as the express and setup the express as wireless bridge. This is great for a static computer.. but rather less than portable.
I think it is such a shame we lost the old Express port.. PCMCIA as it was in earlier days.. it was great for this sort of thing.. and was better as it actually connects to the main bus in the computer..
Otherwise move up your new computer replacement date.

Can i install SSD into MacBook Pro 2012?

Hi All,
I don't usually deal with Mac upgrades but i've been asked if i can replace the standard Hard Disk which is currently in a Macbook Pro 2012(?) model with a SSD storage?
My thinking is 'yes' as the SSD comes in SATA form anyway and the current Hard Disk is using SATA. So it shouldnt be a problem right?
Just thought i would ask in here as i'm pretty sure someone else has either done this already or confirm yes or no.
Thanks a bunch!
Lee

Yes.
See my one and only user tip -> Upgrading your MacBook Pro with a Solid State Drive.
Call back should you have any questions.
Good luck,
Clinton

Macbook pro 2012 - Thermal paste replacement time?

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