Macbook Pro battery vs Macbook Air
Hello everyone,
lately i was notice that my battery life is about to end.
i need to charge my mac every 2 hours and its really annoying.
this is a picture from Battery Health App.
my MP is Mid-2012.
i have some questions:
1. when and where to buy a new battery?
2.can i get a bigger capacity like Macbook Air (my girlfriend have 7150 mAh!!!)
3.why does it happen? this is normal?
any other suggestions?
thanks
cheneilat wrote:
1. when and where to buy a new battery?
Take the computer to the Apple store to have the battery checked and replaced if necessary.
http://www.apple.com/support/macbookair/service/battery/
Before that, do a SMC reset and test.
Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
Best.
Similar Messages
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I am looking at buying a MacBook Air over the Pro mainly for the 12 hour battery. Just wondering if battery is compromised by upgrading to 8mb and upgrading to I7 Intel dual core. I am not very tech savvy so apologies if dumb question
If both computers were configured identically, then they would both lose the same amount of battery life with respect to the same starting configuration - comparing apple to apples. I don't know how much the added RAM, etc. would reduce battery life, but it would be less for both models.
Battery life is a tricky subject because most mfgr.s like to suggest as long a life as possible, but often do so under a set of conditions that are not common to most users. Apple is no different. Their computers do have good battery life, however. But not likely as long as what is in the ads for the typical user. -
I have a 13" macbook pro and an 11" macbook air. Is there any way to charge the battery on the air with the power supply of the macbook pro?
If the charging plug fits, use it.
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Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.
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I am a university student and I currently use a Windows computer but I think it's time for a Mac upgrade. I'll be using it for writing lots of word documents and powerpoints, LOTS of web surfing espescially with many tabs and watching shows from my external hardrive. I'll be using some Adobe programs like Dreamweaver, Photoshop or Flash. I'll need to install the Windows OS into the laptop as well for my work. I'm also a light gamer. Mostly for the Dragon Age but that's not important. Portability, convenience and battery life is very important. I would hate to carry around a heavy laptop everyday.
I'm aiming for the either the 256GB, 13inch MacBook Air or the 13inch MacBook Pro. I'm not sure if I need such a high peformance laptop like the Pro but i'm also unsure if the Air is up for the job. The only reason why im hesitant to get the Pro is because it's very expensive and it's too heavy, Which one do you think i should get?Macbook Pro 13-inch will do fine.
If you prefer a lightweight computer, Macbook Air 13-inch is the right choice
Consider 8-16GB RAM and 256 GB SSD.
Best. -
Should I pick the Macbook Air/Pro or the Dell XPS 13?
Hello everyone!
I'm a 10th grade student in a international school, where we are allowed to use laptops instead of our regular notebooks. In my class no one uses a notebook, so I would be the first one.
My idea came from the fact that I broke my arm, and am unable to write normally for the next 3 months, as my hand is in a cast. I am currently writing on my iPad, which is nice, as I can only use my left hand for typing. I didn't really think much of it, but after few days I realised how easy it is to type on a tablet instead of on a piece of paper.
I took my exams on a PC and I was easily able to write with my left hand only. The experience was much better, as I was able to erase all my mistakes/ rewrite someting I didn't like… but let's get to the point.
After I finish my iGCSE's, I'll be going to the IB diploma programme. It is very rigorous and requires a lot of work, so a laptop would be very helpful. The three laptops I want to choose between are:
1. 13" Macbook Air
2. 13" Macbook Pro
3. New Dell XPS 2015 13" (http://www.dell.com/us/p/xps-13-9333/pd?oc=fncwp1512h)
Now I know about the rumors of the new Macbook Air 12" with retina display, but the idea of having one port only doesn't appeal to me. I currently have an iMac 27" late 2013, along with an iPad and an iPhone. It is better to stick to apple just for the whole sync. between all devices, or is the Dell better in terms of performance? The ultrabook would be used for typing essays, editing videos (I'm doing film at school, so we get assignments like that pretty often) and of course web browsing. Gaming isn't really a priority, but to play some easy-going games such as garry's mod or turbo dismount on the go would be nice.
So what do you guys this is the best pick? I want the laptop to last another three years before I go to uni, and that's the reason I want to go for either the mid-spec. MacBook Pro/Air or the fully spec. Dell XPS 13. Price plays a role here, as I can only pay max. 1500$ for it, so I cannot afford the fully spec. MacBook Pro 13".
Ps. I really like the touchscreen in the Dell XPS 13, but does it affect the battery life much? It's really important that it lasts at least 8 hours a day, as I start school really early in the morning, and finish late in the afternoon.
Thank you for your answer,
mac117Mac117 wrote:
Ps. I really like the touchscreen in the Dell XPS 13,
Then go for it.
Best. -
Low battery life mid 2013 macbook air (i7)
hi all, i am getting pretty poor battery life out of my new macbook air. can you pro's check out my running info and figure out what is sucking my battery?
Hardware Information:
MacBook Air (13-inch, Mid 2013)
MacBook Air - model: MacBookAir6,2
1 1.7 GHz Intel Core i7 CPU: 2 cores
4 GB RAM
Video Information:
Intel HD Graphics 5000 - VRAM: 1024 MB
System Software:
OS X 10.8.4 (12E3067) - Uptime: 0 days 0:15:51
Disk Information:
APPLE SSD SM0128F disk0 : (121.33 GB)
disk0s1 (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) /: 120.47 GB (79.38 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
USB Information:
Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Kingston DataTraveler 2.0 31.22 GB
UNTITLED (disk1s1) /Volumes/UNTITLED: 31.22 GB (31.15 GB free)
Microsoft Microsoft® Nano Transceiver v1.0
FireWire Information:
Thunderbolt Information:
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Kernel Extensions:
Problem System Launch Daemons:
Problem System Launch Agents:
Launch Daemons:
[loaded] com.google.keystone.daemon.plist
[loaded] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist
Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist
User Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.spotify.webhelper.plist
User Login Items:
iTunesHelper
Dropbox
Spotify
uTorrent
3rd Party Preference Panes:
None
Internet Plug-ins:
JavaAppletPlugin.plugin
MeetingJoinPlugin.plugin
QuickTime Plugin.plugin
SharePointBrowserPlugin.plugin
User Internet Plug-ins:
CitrixOnlineWebDeploymentPlugin.plugin
Bad Fonts:
None
Top Processes by CPU:
10% Google Chrome
3% WindowServer
2% Spotify
2% Microsoft Outlook
2% Dock
1% EtreCheck
1% fontd
0% unetbootin
0% Microsoft Lync
0% Microsoft Word
Top Processes by Memory:
131 MB Messages
115 MB Spotify
106 MB Google Chrome
106 MB Microsoft Outlook
106 MB WindowServer
90 MB iTunes
90 MB Dropbox
86 MB Google Chrome Helper
74 MB iPhoto
74 MB Microsoft Lync
Virtual Memory Statistics
1.23 GB Free RAM
1.70 GB Active RAM
456 MB Inactive RAM
502 MB Wired RAM
558 MB Page-ins
0 B Page-outsthis is my case... just let charging almost all day.
it's too big drop from 12 to 8 hours... Im not even using such processor...
it feels like a lie... -
Macbook pro 15-inch 2011 vs. MacBook Air 13-inch 2013
Hello. I currently own a MacBook Pro 15-inch, early 2011 model. It has 8 GB of RAM, a quad-core, 2.3 GHz i7 processor, hi-res, anti-glare display, an AMD 6750m and Intel HD 3000. I bought it off of an Apple product store on Ebay about 3 and a half months ago. It was 1,350$. It was in perfect condition when I bought it, and it still is. I'm really into producing music, and I use Reason 6.5. I also do some other small things on my laptop, like word-processing, web-browsing and I bring it to school everyday. I was wandering if I should sell this laptop on Ebay, and buy a brand-new Macbook Air, 13-inch, 2013 model. The laptop is a little thick and heavy, and its battery-life is nothing compared to the MacBook Air. I really value battery-life I would probably upgrade the RAM to 8 gigs, and maybe upgrade the processor to 1.7 GHz, maybe upgrade the SSD to 256, but I might not. I was wandering if this would be a good idea. How much would I be able to sell this laptop for on Ebay? Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now? Screen real estate is something that matters a lot when using a music program, which is why I initially went for this laptop. Now, since the MacBook Air is smaller, I know that it displays just as much as this laptop does, so I don't think that the screen size would be that big of a problem. I am thinking about saving up for a 27-inch iMac, which would then be my primary machine, but if I were able to buy one, it wouldn't be for awhile. Anyways, Thanks to anybody who can help me!
Sky Sailing
Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now?
Nice to see you again.
The macbook Air is 'stronger' than the Pro only in terms of containing MUCH fewer parts, far less to fault, easier to repair
both have unibody aluminum alloy frames. -
MacBook Pro 15-inch Early 2011 vs MacBook Air 13-inch 2013
Hello. I currently own a MacBook Pro 15-inch, early 2011 model. It has 8 GB of RAM, a quad-core, 2.3 GHz i7 processor, hi-res, anti-glare display, an AMD 6750m and Intel HD 3000. I bought it off of an Apple product store on Ebay about 3 and a half months ago. It was 1,350$. It was in perfect condition when I bought it, and it still is. I'm really into producing music, and I use Reason 6.5. I also do some other small things on my laptop, like word-processing, web-browsing and I bring it to school everyday. I was wandering if I should sell this laptop on Ebay, and buy a brand-new Macbook Air, 13-inch, 2013 model. The laptop is a little thick and heavy, and its battery-life is nothing compared to the MacBook Air. I really value battery-life I would probably upgrade the RAM to 8 gigs, and maybe upgrade the processor to 1.7 GHz, maybe upgrade the SSD to 256, but I might not. I was wandering if this would be a good idea. How much would I be able to sell this laptop for on Ebay? Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now? Screen real estate is something that matters a lot when using a music program, which is why I initially went for this laptop. Now, since the MacBook Air is smaller, I know that it displays just as much as this laptop does, so I don't think that the screen size would be that big of a problem. I am thinking about saving up for a 27-inch iMac, which would then be my primary machine, but if I were able to buy one, it wouldn't be for awhile. Anyways, Thanks to anybody who can help me!
Sky Sailing
Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now
Its stronger in alloy form factor, slim design with only ONE moving part, no HD to crash from mechanical failure of impact etc.
Ive got an Imac and current Air, and owned several Air, the air is the hands down choice for myself and I wouldnt part with it for any amount of money. Also own a couple macbook Pro, new and older one i rebuilt.
Here is an excellent video comparison between the 11” I5 vs. I7 2013 Macbook Air.
http://www.apple-tubes.com/apple-macbook-air-11-mid-2013-haswell-i5-vs-i7-compar ison/
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7113/2013-macbook-air-core-i5-4250u-vs-core-i7-465 0u/2
I5 vs. I7 performance 13” Macbook Air 2013
Boot performance
11.7 I5 ……11.4 I7
Cinebench
1.1 I5….1.41 I7
IMovie Import and Opt.
6.69 I5….5.35 I7
IMovie Export
10.33 I5…8.20 I7
Final Cut Pro X
21.47 I5…17.71 I7
Adobe Lightroom 3 Export
25.8 I5….31.8 I7
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Performance
27.3 I5…22.6 I7
Macbook Air:
Only one moving part, ultrafast boot time SSD, the full power of laptop with the weight of an Ipad (close).
Air is the only Mac that has Haswell, 802ac wifi, and incredible 12hr. batt life in 13" I5. HOWEVER NOW the new Pro have 802ac wifi
Recommend buying the Air with 8gig Ram.
Pack around a regular laptop around about 20 days, then an Air, .....after that the standard laptops stays at home.
Only one moving part, the fan. No moving HD heads to crash or moving platters. Runs a LOT cooler than anything else out there (which = durability). Heater is a killer on a scale of 10X over that of accidents.
Also the AIR has far fewer parts to fail inside than a standard laptop. Really only a few replacement parts
The speakers on the Air, contrary to what most people would assume, are much louder than on the macbook Pro.
The Air in general is faster due to the SSD, also if you have a 802ac Router (i.e. Airport Extreme) then the Air over wifi is a LOT faster.
If youre going to be dragging a notebook around campus all the time, the Air makes things a lot more lovely.
The FINAL consideration of course is your application USE, and needs regarding same (see specs and video above)
The new Air, NOW with Mavericks is just 'king of the hill'. Nothing touches it -
MacBook Pro Retina Display 13" or MacBook Air 13"??
I'm starting university in September and I'm considering purchasing a MacBook Pro 13" or a MacBook Air 13" to use during my study. I just can't decide which to go for.
Because I do a lot of photography work - (Adobe Photoshop) - I'm guessing the pro is a good option although the only thing I'm concerned about is the weight. I'll be taking my MacBook wherever I go - I.e. On field trips, lectures to take notes, friends' houses etc. so I want it to be portable and easy to carry wherever I go.
My friend has an Air and it looks and feels great. But I've been thinking is worth me getting the pro? Is the weight difference that much of an issue? Or wont I notice it? I've seen many comparison videos and both seem to be pretty close in terms of thinness. I just don't want to feel gutted if I go for the Air when the MacBook Pro might have a lot more to offer. I'll also be using office software for all my writing work for my course next year and the idea of having crisp sharp typography really appeals to me if I go for the pro. Having said this, I've heard that the standard resolution and the retina display can't really be differentiated from working distance but I've also heard that the colours are more vibrant on the pro. Another concern is the battery life. I'm really stuck.
Thank you for your time.The Pro is slightly better for Photography. The 15" Pro is even better as the graphics chip gives you more chip based power.
The weight is not that much. I used to carry around an 8 lbs Powerbook in 1998. The key to weight is having the proper bag with adjustable straps.
And when you do transport it, do not leave it on. Shut it down. Even with the sudden motion sensor, the innertia may suddenly wake it from sleep or make the hard drive deteriorate faster. If it wakes with the lid closed, that can cause it to overheat from the display on the computer's keyboard. -
After some advice, I am new to Apple and looking to purchase either the MacBook Air 13inch with 256GB and 8GB mem or the MacBook Pro 13inch with retina 256Gb and 8GB mem. I am an assistant principal in a primary school and also studying my masters at university. I don't play computer games and I don't watch movies. I do store photos and videos of my kids and music on iTunes. I also like browsing the net with numerous windows open, check email etc. I am really wanting long battery life as I do a lot of my work on the couch - not close to a PowerPoint. Would the air do the trick or will it soon be outdated as Apple move towards retina display? Both air and pro seem very thin - almost the same? And not much difference in weight either so both very portable which is also a necessary requirement. Just can't help dreaming about that 12 hour claimed battery life. Any helpful advice/opinions, very much appreciated. Thanks
It's not likely that you'll get 12 hours in reql life. Those benchmarks are set under very strict controlled conditions. Kind of like mileage per gallon claims on cars. If 16GB of ram is an option at all I'd highly recommend you get that. As far as storage 256GB isn't alot, consider storing some things on an external thunderbolt real
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Macbook Air or Pro for Psychology Student
Hey everyone,
Like a lot of people, I'm having trouble deciding which Macbook to buy although I at least know that I'm finally going to buy one! I'm a college student, and here is a list of what I will/want to do with my Macbook:
-Write papers
-Make presentations
-Watch Youtube
-Social network (facebook, twitter, tumblr)
-E-mail
-iTunes/Pandora (listen to music, watch movies)
-Be able to multitask (ex: have lecture slides open while taking notes elsewhere)
-MAYBE light games? I have no intentions to ever religiously video edit or game though it may happen ocassionally.
I've talked to A LOT of people, including the awesome people working in the Apple store and I've gotten mixed suggestions. For what I will need the Macbook for, I've been told by a couple of friends that the Air should be fine. I think I will get the i7 processor with 8gb of RAM. Some (including people at Apple) have told me that I should even be fine with the i5 and 4gb of RAM. My thought was that if I was told I wouldn't even need to upgrade the processor or memory that a Pro wouldn't make sense for me.
The portability and battery life on the Air is really convienent for me as the laptop will be travelling to and from school/work/home. I put this thread in the Macbook Air section because that's the computer I'm leaning toward, but maybe someone can provide an argument that would show me that the Pro really is better for my needs?
Also - you can buy AppleCare any time as long as it's before the end of the 1 year Warranty - correct?
Thanks!Yeah, that would be the only detriment I see as well, though I intend to buy the 256GB model and can simply get an external drive if I find it necessary. Thanks for your input!
Another question - (for anyone) - If I order online and select the student discount, how does that work? Do I pay the student rate and then show my student ID & license at the store when I pick it up? -
Macbook Pro 13" late 2013 Vs MacBook Air 13" 2013
I am a College Student studying Computer Engingeering
i just wanted to know if there is much difference with Iris and HD 5000 graphics…
The Two models That i am stuck between buying is
1)MacBook Pro 13″
2.4GHz Dual-core Intel Core i5, Turbo Boost up to 2.9GHz
8GB 1600MHz DDR3L SDRAM
256GB PCIe-based Flash Storage
Apple USB SuperDrive
Backlit Keyboard (English) & User’s Guide
Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter
Priced $1607
2)MacBook Air 13″
1.7GHz Dual-Core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 3.3GHz
8GB 1600MHz LPDDR3 SDRAM
256GB Flash Storage
Apple USB SuperDrive
Backlit Keyboard (English) & User’s Guide
Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter
Priced $1657
Which one is better choice… Btw i live in Nepal where there are a lot of powercuts…
ThanksReset PRAM. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH18761
Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
Start up in Safe Mode. http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT1564
Best. -
Transferring from MacBook Pro to MacBook Air
Hello community.
I have a MacBook Pro 13" running OSX 10.7.5 purchased early 2012 (2.8GHz i7, 4GB memory, 750GB HDD).
I am considering downsizing to an 11" MacBook Air (for when I'm travelling) with an external monitor (for when I'm working). I'm finding the Pro too heavy to take around with me.
First question: Will the latest MacBook Air with 2.0GHz i7 and 8GB memory be able to run the Adobe CS6 and a CAD program (Vectorworks)? I need to downsize but I am worried about it not being able to cope with these fairly demanding programs.
Second question/s: The Air will come with OSX 10.8.
Can I use Time Machine to backup my MacBook Pro... but not all the files (cause there's 500GB)... just the apps and settings... and then put it on the new Air? And then upgrade to 10.8?
Or should I upgrade to 10.8 on my MacBook Pro before using TimeMachine and tranferring to the Air?
Are the two computers compatible with TimeMachine?
It is possible just to back up apps and settings using TimeMachine and I can move my essential documents over separately? (I can put most of that 500GB on an external drive instead).
Thankyou for any assistance you can offer.
NicolaI can answer your transfer questions.
As for Adobe CS6 and Vectorworks they should run without any problem, but you might want to research compatibility with Mountain Lion.
The two computers are comparable in their ability. The MacBook Air's additional memory and lack of a spinning hard disk should result in an overall apparent increase in performance, even if its CPU is a bit slower.
I find that I use my MacBook Air more than my MBP simply because it is so much easier to carry around - the same reason you cite. Its battery life is greater also.
Can I use Time Machine to backup my MacBook Pro... but not all the files (cause there's 500GB)... just the apps and settings... and then put it on the new Air? And then upgrade to 10.8?
Upgrading to Mountain Lion is not required nor is it that important.
If storage is limited on your Time Machine backup disk you can simply use Setup Assistant to transfer all your MBP's content. Be sure to perform this when you initially set up your new Air. Using its equivalent Migration Assistant later will result in the creation of a second user account, which is fixable but a hassle.
If you want to create a new account and play with your new MBA right away that's OK too, just don't create an account with the same user name as the one on your MBP. Give it a throwaway name so that you can use Migration Assistant later. After you migrate your MBP's account you can delete this temporary one.
Are the two computers compatible with TimeMachine?
Certainly.
It is possible just to back up apps and settings using TimeMachine and I can move my essential documents over separately?
Not conveniently. It would be easier to transfer your essential documents over your network.
No worries about bumping a post. If a question doesn't solicit any answers after a reasonable amount of time, or the replies you get are not helpful, just post a new question. Unanswered questions are more visible than ones with replies, even if the reply is your own. -
MacBook Air and MacBook Pro Update 2.0
A new update was released today for june 2012 macbook pro'ss/air's. Is anyone else hoping for gaming improvements/improved nvidia drivers? I just updated but havent had a chance to test anything yet. I would also be interested in seeing if battery life improved at all.
About MacBook Air and MacBook Pro Update 2.0
This update includes graphics performance and reliability enhancements and improves compatibility with some USB devices.
This update is recommended for all Mac notebooks introduced in June 2012.
Source: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1609jbinnyc wrote:
Could this update do anything to the color settings? I swear my 15" MacBook Retina looks more washed out after the update. Can I undo it via time machine?
System Preferences > Display
click colors > click calibrate
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