MacBook Pro Closure Gap

I've read other topics about issues with a warped display and gaps in the display. Well, I just wanted to check whether or not my new MacBook Pro is normal.
I purchased the 17" model and when the lid is closed, there isn't a large gap, however, at the left and right end, it could be closed further, so if I put a little pressure on it, it dips in a bit. It's hard to explain. Photos are included below...
http://flickr.com/photos/inknoise/sets/72157594240314112/

Hi Carlos,
I've seen many powerbook 15", 17", macbook pro 15" and 17" like yours and mostly Apple will not do anything to repair that because there is nothing wrong with the unit. It's cosmetic issue (which is actually poor assembly in my persoal opinion).
So far if our cust complained about problem like yours and if they complained to Apple we usually change the display panel assembly but there is no guarantee that the replacement display will not have that kind of problem again.
I still have no idea until now what cause that gap different between right and left, could be poor assembly in the display hinge when they tighten right and left hinge screws is diferent strength.
Good luck
Flippo

Similar Messages

Macbook Pro 15 hinge gap?

Hello,
I purchased my macbook pro about 2 months ago. I just recently noticed that there is a 1 mm gap on the left side of the hinge.
There isn't a noticable gap on the right side so I just wanted to know if this was normal or not. If it isn't should i take it to apple?

If it bothers you take it to an Apple store. Unless there is a malfunction I doubt they'll do anything. Perhaps they can make some sort of adjustment.

Macbook pro left-hinge gap!!

Is it normal for most macbook pros to have a slight gap on the left- hinge between the black part and silver. The right side is fine and the hinge is continuous with the aluminum body whereas the left side hinge is not. Also, I have noticed when picking up my macbook an occaisonal pop or click noise coming from the bottom. Any help or suggestions would be most appreciated!! (P.S. I have only had my 13 inch macbook pro for nearly 2 weeks)
Not Normal Left-Side Hinge (Gap)
Normal Right Side Hinge (no gap)

Hi Jordan,
I have a late 2008 Macbook Pro and it arrived with the exact same condition as yours.
Truth is I took no notice with it, guess it was probably just my piece that was like that.
After a couple of months, the hinge, the black part started to move about, sideways. It could move due to the gap that was already present. The creaking hinge sound you hear, yes that's an indication of the problem. Its not the hard drive shutting down at all.
A year and a half later, the screen begin to peel away from the unibody surface, the metal surface that hold the screen together. It all happened and started from the left side. Closing the lid now showed a significant gap on the left side near the hinge.
2 years and 10 months after I got my Macbook Pro, the hinge has snapped. The screen has peeled signifcantly away from the unibody surface on the left side and now my right side is also affected.
I can only use my Macbook Pro with the wall supporting my screen now.
I implore you to return your Macbook, accept no flaws with the hinges at all.
Email me at [email protected] if you like to know more, or want to see pictures even.

Ok, so i bought a 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM for my late 2011 13" MacBook Pro whose memory runs at 1067 MHz (I was also told that late 2011 MBPs run at 1333MHz, is mine an exception?)... Im looking for all possibilities to close the compatibility gap...

Ok, so i bought a 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM for my late 2011 13" MacBook Pro whose memory runs at 1067 MHz (I was also told that late 2011 MBPs run at 1333MHz, is mine an exception, if so, why?)... Im looking for all possibilities to close the compatibility gap because computer freezes at boot and was wondering if there was anything i could do to get this 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM to work at 1067MHz or somehow get my computer to run at 1333MHz?...

You don't have a late 2011 MB Pro.
You have a 2010 version. Your MB doesn't support 16GB. 8GB Max.
That's what it shows on your about this MAC.
You need to return the RAM and get 8GB ( 2 X 4GB ) 1066MHz.
Your system bus is set to 1066MHz.
You're having issues because you've installed more RAM than your MB can support. It's only reading 4GB per bank which totals to 8GB and not 16GB.

New External Monitor for Logic on MacBook Pro - Suggestions

I'm in the painful process of updating my studio and now my large screen external monitor has started failing.
I know if this a pretty general question more suited to the MacBook Pro forum but I'd like some input from folks used to working with an application like Logic in a home studio environment.
I guess the issue for me is that I'm not getting any younger and my eyesight isn't what it used to be. One of the things specific to Logic and music software in general is that there are LOTS of very detailed dialog boxes with text that is not always height adjustable (yes I know about zooming and indeed I do lots of that but it gets quite distracting). The other factor is that I'm often recording and engineering myself which means I'll be sitting with a guitar in my lap or at a keyboard and can't always lean in too close to the monitor.
I solved this by buying a large 26" Acer which sits on my desk behind the Mackie MCU. To my left I've got the MacBook 15.4" Pro on a keyboard stand above my MIDI controller at a 45 degree angle to the desk.
It's worked quite well until the Acer seems to have become haunted. It will mysteriously reboot itself intermittently, going blank for a second, then showing the Acer logo and going back to picture. It will also turn itself on spontaneously when the computer is off (the status light is off and then turns itself on). It seems to detect when I'm in the middle of a really good session and starts resetting itself every 30 seconds or so. Then it will work fine sometimes for days or weeks at a time. I've checked it on 4 different computers, it malfunctions on all. I believe in may be a problem with one of the capacitors or the inverter, I'm not sure, but it's driving CRAZY at this point.
And of course now it's 3 months out of warranty and may be more expensive to fix than buying a new one.
So my issue is what monitor to replace it with. I've considered buying an Apple monitor, since the display is lovely to look at but there are a couple things that are deal breakers.
It's expensive. Very expensive.
Oddly you have to choose between a 24" and a 30", with nothing in between. Don't want to sound like Goldilocks here, but the 24 is tooooo small and the 30 is tooooo big.
Yeah I know bigger is usually better but since they bumped the native resolution of the 30" up to 2560x1600 it's really sharp but things like the menu text get really quite small. Yes you can reset to a lower non native resolution, but then you loose the sharpness. I tested Logic in the store on the 30" and it did look great but I found I actually had to move my whole body around to see things at the top and bottom of the screen.
Oh and did I mention that it's expensive? Jeez.
The 24" now seems to look a bit small to me after using the same resolution (1920x1200) on the Acer's 26" screen. (Ok, I think it's actually 25.5 but hey that half an inch can make a big difference and I will avoid making any bad jokes here).
And did I mention the Apple monitors are expensive? The 24" is almost 3 times as expensive as a cheaper alternative.
I also still have a PC here that I use (sorry) and the Apple monitors have very limited connectivity. So I think unfortunately the Apple monitors are out for me.
So I;m down to a couple other non Apple options. I will not buy an Acer again since I believe now that their quality control is not good and their support is absolutely atrocious. Shame I used to be a big fan of Acer PC's, but after owning a couple I'm steering clear.
My biggest issue right now is that most of the new budget monitors are geared toward 1080p HD uses so they are they are maxing out at 1920x1080 (16:9 aspect ratio instead of 1920x1200's 16:10). So the tradeoff here is that HD movies will look better in 16:9, but 16:10 gives you "squarer" pixels and more vertical resolution for screen hungry apps like Logic.
Any opinions on this? I'm a bit new to the Mac so I don't know if I'm really better off going with a 1920x1200 screen like the Apple monitors.
Also, I know this may just be a bug in the Acer's scaling, but if I switch to 1920x1080, I lose the menus off the top of the screen or if I adjust the vpos I lose the dock at the bottom. Downscaling to 1600x1050 or even 1024x768 works fine. If I get a 1080 screen and set the resolution appropriately will it work correctly and without too much distortion?
I'm also curious what is the best way to hook up the monitor? I'm currently using the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the MacBook. My Pro is the slighter older silver keyboard model so it has the standard DVI out. Will I see any real improvement by going over to using DVI directly?
Also I'm wondering how people feel about glossy vs matte for music. My current displays are the non-glossy and I do think I prefer them for detail work.
The candidates right now are
Hanns-G HH-281HPB 28" @300$. It's one of the only budget monitors that uses 1920x1200. All the right inputs (DVI, VGA). I'm just afraid this might be a bit too good to be true. It's really cheap and after having problems with a "cheap" Acer (although it wasn't so cheap 3 years ago!) I don't want similar problems. Stand has no swivel or tilt (a big problem for my use). Also that resolution on such a big screen might be good for me or it might look grainy I don't know I haven't seen it. Anybody have any experience with these?
Samsung P2770H 27" @339 Looks nice, good color. Sadly only 1080 native resolution. Stand doesn't swivel, but does tilt. No VGA input, so won't work with my old PC (although strangely it says it comes with a VGA cable). They get generally good reviews and I know Samsung makes very good flat panel TV's.
ViewSonic X Series VX2739WM 27" @350. Once again maxes out at 1080. It's fast (1ms), has VGA input. I've never been a big fan of ViewSonic but they do seem to have gotten better color-wise. Tilt no swivel and it's anti-glare (not sure this is a plus).
There are also similar options from HP, Asus, LG and Sceptre but they are all 1080. In fact outside of the Apples, the Hanns-G and a few expensive monitors from NEC they all seem to be 1080. So if I really want the 1200 the Hanns-G seems like the only way to go.
Any input here would be greatly appreciated.

No doubt, the Apple displays are gorgeous. The first time I saw the 30" display wow, I wanted one BAD and it's actually what prompted me to buy a "big" monitor. The colors are great with a rich wonderful saturation level and as usual for Apple the form factor design is stunning. You know for that picture quality I could even get over the sticker shock and save up for one.
Which is why I was so disappointed when I actually sat down in the store and started to use Logic on one. I imagine for doing video work, graphic design or darn near anything else, it would be great. But for Logic I just found myself bending and twisting trying to look at toolbar at the bottom and then up to look at the menus. And instrument or plugin displays that were hard coded to look OK at lower resolutions looked really, really tiny to me. For me and particularly using Logic having 2 slightly smaller displays at a 45 degree angle makes more sense.
And once again the 24 seems just a bit small. I don't understand why they have a 27" iMac but you can't buy a 27" display. So iMac 27" starting at 1699, subtract out the cost of the CPU and drive ie the Mini and I'd really buy one. Strangely you can buy a 21.5" or a 27" iMac. Or you can buy a 24" or 30" display. Hmmmm.
So don't get me wrong I'm not bashing Apple for being expensive. They put a lot of money into R&D and into really thinking about the form and the function of their products. As a recent convert from being a PC developer for 25+ years, hey I've more than sipped the Kool-Aid here, I've guzzled it. They make great products and yeah they're more expensive, because they ARE better! I've now got 2 MBP's, 2 iPods, I'm about to get an iPhone (silly "death grip" or not) and I really want an iPad. Heck I'd really love an 8 core MacPro if I could afford one (alas I can't).
I guess my only gripe here is that there always seems to be a little less choice in the Apple world. Yeah, I know they do a lot less volume than the PC clone world I just think that they always seem to have a big gap between the high end and low end with not enough in between. So you can choose between the lower end and one piece units with no expansion boards (the mini or the iMac) or go straight to monster tower MacPro (way over 3K with display). You can get a MacBook but then you have to put up with a small screen or go with MacBook Pro, which let's face it is a lot of computing power for someone who just wants to web surf and write some email without squinting.
So here I am stuck in the middle. I don't want to buy a HannspreeQG or another piece of junk that's going to last 3 years and 3 months because of a crappy $2 capacitor that no seems to able to fix or care about fixing. I'd like to buy a really nice Apple monitor, I just want a big monitor, not a huge one and not a "medium" one (I know I'm spoiled but 24" seems "medium" these days).
Sorry about the rant here but my monitor is shutting down every 30 seconds and I'm about to go completely insane and toss it out the window!!!
Really glad to hear about that 84' VGA cable. I never imagined such a thing existed or would work without some sort of signal boost on the way. Very cool for me. My electronic drum kit is in another room and I would love to have a small cheap monitor next to it for sequencing. I had my laptop on a stand next to it for a while but I began to get terrified that I'd let a drumstick slip and destroy my laptop screen. That would be a very bad thing. Thanks for the tip.

What should I do about my Macbook Pro?

I have several issues with my MacBook Pro two years ago (some which I've had since I got it, however due to my busy work/part-time college schedule I haven't had the opportunity to get them fixed).
1) When I got my MBP I had nasty denting on the top corners of the laptop near the screen hinges (the screen was intact but the base laptop was not) and because of this there are big protruding dents coming out of the laptop above the DVI port and the MagSafe power port, and a small bump above laptop open screen button (The thing in the front that allows you to open the screen when it's shut). There is also a small open gap in the top right corner above DVI slot where you can see into the case (large enough to stick your thumbnail in with a lot of wiggle room). Because of this I've had to avoid using a second monitor at work when possible, when I can't, I've had to push down on the dent to have the DVI connector go in all the way.
2) I suspect this is because the case is dented in, but the several screws on the outside of the case keep slowly coming out and I HAVE to screw them in once every two to three weeks otherwise I fear they may come out completely.
3) Another problem I suspect might have to do with the case being damaged is the DVD drive is screwy. I have yet to burn more a few CDs on the thing, but at least when I try to play CDs/DVDs I've had massive problems with them reading properly. I rarely ever used the drive, but for my birthday this past July my friend gave me the first season of Battlestar Galactica on DVD (brand new factory sealed discs that were scratch free) and whenever I try to put it into my DVD drive even before DVD Player comes up, it ejects the DVD. I had to put it back in no less then a dozen times for some of those discs to stay in. When they did work, they would randomly skip while playing saying that there was an error while reading the discs. Also whenever I would pause and walk away for a while, just to come back and hit play again, the issue would come up again. (Note I tested the DVDs on several other laptops and DVD players and they worked perfectly fine, even in the problematic areas that my laptop said the disc had and they worked perfectly fine)
4) I recently was told about a heating issue with MBPs and I've found out that my laptop runs significantly hotter then others I've read about online (can someone please confirm this for me). While IDLE and the only things running in the background are:
-I have Dashboard permanently turned off
-iStat Menu Bar (for processor and network monitoring only)
-PeerGuardian
-GMail Notifier
-Adium
-You Control:tunes
-SMC Fan Controller (set to 3600RPM for both fans at minimum at all times)
-Wifi is turned off, plugged into Ethernet
-power plugged into the wall with brick sitting on the ground'
-Nothing else is plugged into firewire/usb slots
My laptop temperature runs at 124F ~ 127F. It's to my understanding that the average IDLE temperate at the default fanspeed of 2000RPM is around 100F (plus or minus 10F). When I try to run things such as Firefox or have other thing plugged in, the temperature stays between 127F ~ 130F. (And when I put it on my lap it rarely stays below 130F). If I run Adobe Illustrator CS3 and just have it open to a blank new file, and let it sit, the temperature spikes above 130F (I had to uninstall due to this issue, so I don't know the exact temperature), causing the fans to auto increase to combat the increased temperature.
5) The screen has several problems:
a) There are random black splotches all over the top portion of it, they were not there when I originally purchased the laptop. However over time, they grew larger and in two other areas. I've heard to this problem being called uneven lighting.
b) There's this weird spot in the middle of the screen where I randomly see a big thin red tinted splotch. At first I thought it was in my head, but while I was browsing a website with a black/gray background, it came up quite clearly (I took a screen shot of the website so I have something to reference).
c) When the lights are completely out, no matter what brightness setting my laptop is on, outside of no back light at all, after about 5 seconds or so, the screen tents to flicker in brightness. The dimmer the light setting, the less erratic the flicker, but it still happens even on the lowest setting. (I tried putting small books over my speakers where I suspect the ambient light sensors are, but that doesn't fix the situation either.)
I still have 1 year or so left on my Apple Care, I'm just wondering what I should do about getting my MBP fixed or if I should just ask for a new one, or anything else that you might recommend.

Hi. It seems like you have quite a few different sources of problems.
1) I have had similar dents coming out of the bottom case. I was able to restore most of the ones (like the one above the latch button in the front) by just opening it up and pinching it with pliers. However, if your case is really beat up like mine you might want a new bottom case. If Apple isn't convinced this is part of your AppleCare warranty then they will charge heaps for it, but you can also get one off eBay. Thing is, you'll have to have a very good idea of what you're doing to be able to replace it yourself. There are very good guides for this here, to see if you would be capable of performing the replacement:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac/MacBook-Pro-15-Inch-Core-2-Duo/Lower-Case/115/29 /Page-1
2) I think you're probably right.
3) You could try a lens cleaner CD. It does seem like the superdrive is damaged though, but I don't think it's due to a dented case. Does it make a loud noise when the disc is spinning? If not, it might have been damaged at the moment you dented your case, but replacing the case might not fix the problem with your drive. Instead of replacing it, you might want to consider getting a faster external one instead.
4) That does seem a bit hotter than usual, considering your fan speed. I can't help you here because I don't know what could cause this, although maybe your dented case is obstructing airflow somewhere but that's a bit unlikely.
5. a) This indeed has to do with your lighting. You might need to replace the entire display if you can't replace just the backlight.
b) Did you take the screenshot using a camera, or internally on the macbook? If you used the macbook, did the red splotch turn up on the screenshot?
c) This could have to do with the lighting as well seeing as its already bad, if not it might still be the sensors.
Because of the many different problems, Apple might have to replace most of the internals (and the case) of your macbook. If Apple finds that that's not cost effective, they might give you a replacement instead. You can try to ask for one, but I can't say whether or not you will get one.

Problem with trackpad and keyboard on Macbook Pro

Hello,
I have a Macbook Pro Early '09 (I got it about 1 month ago used) and yesterday a problem occurred. Suddenly, as I was typing a message, the keyboard stopped responding and the trackpad started acting up. Whenever I tapped with 1 finger, it would mark the text or would show the right-click options ("Copy, Cut, Paste" etc on text or "New Folder" etc on desktop).
I restarted it thinking that it would probably solve the problem, but then I couldn't even log in, because not all keys were working, so I couldn't enter the password. Pressing "O" seemed to work -not always though-, but other keys didn't. I logged in as guest user, since no password is required for that, and tried typing a URL on Google Chrome, just to see what happens. there I noticed that sometimes the F letter key would work as right arrow and A as left.
I should finally note that certain applications would not open lately (for the past weeks) and would "quit unexpectedly" (HDRtist and Inkscape, to be specific).
So, maybe it needs a Disk Utility Repair? Is it possible that this would solve both problems? But how do i do that if I can't log in as admin?
It would be better to find a way to solve this on my own without having to pay for the repair.
Any ideas?
I know it's a common problem and that it's been posted many times, but most answers on other discussions have confused me so far.
I've read about the tape under the battery thing, but I'd prefer a different solution if anyone can offer one.
Thank you in advance. I appreciate it.

I have read of people saying Resetting SMC fixes stuck touchpad drag problems. In order to do this you must typically remove the battery. I think it was the act of battery removal that fixed it and not the act of clearing SMC memory.
If your Macbook battery is removable and is located directly under your touchpad a bloated swollen battery could be the problem.
Try this:
Remove battery
Connect to magsafe power and boot up.
Try using your touchpad
If this fixes the problem you likely have a swollen or bloated lithium battery. My symptoms on my 15" late 2008 Macbook Pro were that the touchpad acted like it was stuck in drag mode. The bottom left and right touchpad switches would not click or took great effort to press. I had to hit the touchpad very hard for a mouse click to be recognized. It also screwed up opration of my bluetooth mouse. I noticed several months earlier the battery cover no longer closed tightly; there was a gap. I should have been more curious as to why.
MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008) MacBookPro5,1
FB4700LL/A ( MB4700LL/A )
http://sites.uci.edu/lifepo4battery/2011/05/19/swollen-lithium-batteries-swell-c osts/
"Battery bloat or “swollen batteries” is a common occurrence among older lithium ion batteries. It is commonly caused by overcharging a battery and then leaving it unused for a long time. It may also be caused by extreme changes in temperature. More often than not, battery bloat essentially “kills” the battery, rendering it unusable or unsafe for further use."

Today I found a gaping hole and bend on the sueprdrive of my MacBook Pro.

I open up my macbook pro neoprene sleeve today to reveal a bulge on the superdrive corner. There was no disc in the drive for weeks. The aluminum is actually bending outwards. There is a huge gap on the side where the aluminum meets with the grey plastic bezel.The lid is not flush with the system when closed now it has a gap and is uneven with the undamaged side. I can see the side inside of the laptop slightly:complicated plastic groves and such. I cant fathom how this could happen. I have no camera for pictures. I am still in warranty what are my options? The optical drive accepts and ejects discs but its difficult and seems like it will fail at anytime now because of the pressure of the drive casing. I read that this could be from daily wrist pressure. Also I sometimes hold the laptop and walk around with it holding that corner, that probably contributed to this. I have researched and found this to be the most venerable part of the macbook pro. If apple will not repair this, how much does this affect resale value? This is a multitouch 2.5GHZ macbook pro ( like the last non unibody they made) Now I see the purpose of the unibody. They moved the optical drive to the side and made the chasis much stronger. This is my only computer, which I need daily for online college so needless to say im pretty upset about this. This laptop has been so well taken care of its not even funny. No scratches except one near the bottom battery area. Never dropped also put in a sleeve then a briefcase. Note the below are close examples to what my issue is (but not my pics).
Lid gap looks like this:
http://www.notquiteleet.com/mbp4.JPG
The bezel gap looks like this but mine is only 1/4 as long and not as open (i closed the gap as much as I could it looks a lot better now then it did original but its a temp fix and still bad imo):
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/1176/img0042x.jpg
Message was edited by: pallotta2
Message was edited by: pallotta2
Message was edited by: pallotta2
Message was edited by: pallotta2
Message was edited by: pallotta2

Yes I have apple care for a few more months. If apple fixes this I will totally renew the warranty as well. Never thought something like this could happen. I wont be able to go to the apple store for another 3 days (traveling).

MacBook Pro 2,2 won't pass memory test at boot

Hi Apple and Mac folks,
I have a MacBook Pro 2,2 15", 2007 year model, equipped with 2,16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo and 2 GB 667 Mhz factory-installed DDR2 SDRAM, running Mac OS X 10.4.11. SMC version is 1.12f5.
Three months ago, when I was installing the Safari beta and the installation requested a reboot, the machine wouldn't start at all. It didn't give me any startup chime; the only thing to be heard was the initial movement from the DVD scanning mechanism (?), but after that nothing happened. If I waited for a while I could assume that the CPU was working, since I could hear the fans spinning up. But the screen was black and the computer wouldn't load any CDs or DVDs or even listen to any keyboard commands. The only thing that was working was the force shutdown by the 10-second press on the start button.
After some trial and error I realized that the system would reboot without problems if I let it rest (cool down?) for about 15 minutes. Sometimes, connecting an external hard drive via FireWire would also help the system to start up, bit it seemed to work rather randomly.
I ran the Apple hardware test and it reported an error on one of the SDRAM modules the first time I checked, but running the more thorough test wouldn't report any error and the system didn't show any signs of errors whatsoever once it was up and running.
I have also tried to reset PRAM and SMC, but it does not alleviate the reboot problem.
Since I then suspected that I had a faulty memory module I decided to upgrade the system with 2 Kingston DDR2 2GB SODIMM modules (yes, I know it only supports 3GB of memory, but I wanted the modules to work in pair). Unfortunately, the system exhibits the same problems with the new modules, and now things are getting even worse - now the 15-minute cool down period does not seem to be sufficient to get the system to pass (as I suspect) the initial memory test.
Last night I had to fiddle around, switching memory modules around in the slots to get the system restarted. I could get it rebooted once with one of the older 1 GB modules in the upper slot, and once it rebooted with an older module in the lower slot. Things seemed to act quite randomly and the previous cooling period method didn't seem to make any difference. Finally, I sort of gave up and put back the two new 2 GB modules and tried a last restart while having an external hard drive attached via FireWire and then it gave me the chime and restarted!
My interpretation of the problem is that the system has some kind of glitch (maybe not the correct term for a small gap in the circuits?) in the circuits connecting one or both of the SODIMM modules and that this glitching is getting worse as the system grows older.
So, I have three questions to you:
1. Is there any way to turn off or circumvent the initial memory check, so that I can temporarily live with this problem and not risk having an unusable system at next reboot?
2. Have you heard about this kind of problem before and maybe have knowledge about what part of the system that would have to be replaced and what it will cost me if I bring the computer to a service station (I'm located in Sweden).
3. Are there any SMC or EFI updates I should try before going to service?
Thanks for any help on this,
Ulf

cornelius wrote:
The firewire bridge is the most likely component in a FW HDD to fail. I have seen it a few times, and all that was needed was to remove the drive from the case and place it in a new firewire enclosure. I insist on getting an enclosure with an Oxford chipset, as they are the most reliable.
Hi again Cornelius,
first of all, thanks for the support in the struggle troubleshooting this issue.
Secondly, I don't think the problems has to do with the cabinet of the externa FW drive, but rather the problem would be located in the FW port in the computer.
Doing some research today, I found indications on that the AHT actually is installed on the hard drive of MacBooks after 2007. So, I decided to see if I could launch the AHT from my internal hard drive. Reboot needed, so hold your thumbs...
Reboot. Dead computer. Attached firewire disc. Dead computer. Let computer rest and cool down for half an hour. Restart -> dead computer. Connected firewire drive -> chime and boot!
Pressed D to load ATH. System gave me a dimmed screen with a text box telling me that I had to reboot the computer. I gave OK to that and the computer restarted normally, but reported an abnormal shutdown and gave me the opportunity to send a report about a kernel panic to Apple.
When the system came up the attached FW disc was not reachable. Looking in the system log, I find the following error message repeated:
Jun 26 16:24:49 Ulf-Kronman kernel[0]: FireWire GUID ffffffffffffffff is invalid!
The research on the net is getting me more and more confused: Is the ATH really located on the hard drive of MacBooks? Is the Power On Self Test really run at reboot? According to this wikipedia note (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-on_self-test) the test is not run at reebot:
" Apple's Macintosh computers also perform a POST after a cold boot. In the event of a fatal error, the Mac will not make its startup chime. "
But my problems occur both when I cold start and when I reboot.
Isn't a lack of chime a very un-Apple-like way of reporting an error? Where/how can I get some more information about what's going on before the chime? And how do I know if the Self Test is run or not? System profiler only reports that self-test at start hasn't found any errors, but only when the system starts (due to that it not has found any errors )
Somewhere I saw instructions for doing a
Terminal> sudo nvram boot-args="-x -v"
to get a report of whats going on during startup. Could that be a way to proceed or is there a leaner way to get info out of the self test?
I'll continue to some research on the FireWire GUID, whatever that is.
Regards,
Ulf

I am trying to install windows 7 on my macbook pro 13", when i run bootcamp it tells me that there is not a windows support software available for my computer. Where can i get the windows support software for my macbook?

I am trying to install windows 7 on my macbook pro 13", when i run bootcamp it tells me that there is not a windows support software available for my computer. Where can i get the windows support software for my macbook?

Apple only supports Windows on certain hardware.
http://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp/
Apple provides their framework for Windows to run on a Mac, a piece of software called a Hybrid MBR that bridges the gap between how Windows reads the drive partition table (MBR) and EFI/GUID partition table that Mac's use.
It doesn't mean Windows can't run on your Mac, a third party solution called rEFIt will also bridge the gap and allow booting of more that just Windows, Linux as well for a triple booting computer.
Your hardware has to meet the other requirements the second and third operating system needs as as being able to install drivers that will work for your hardware, especially the fans or they will run loud and fast by default.
http://refit.sourceforge.net/
This above is a advanced procedure which requires knowledge how computers and various operating systems, drive formats and so forth work.
I even admit I don't know everything myself, but I experiment on a separate piece of Mac hardware (out of warranty/AppleCare) designed for this purpose so in case something screws up I'm not taking down my only machine and can use the other to get online and find solutions.
There is a very high potential for losing your data if your using advanced/non-Apple methods to install Windows on your only Mac where Apple doesn't support it. Also one shouldn't be doing this on Mac hardware that is under AppleCare or warranty as it might be voided. Proceed at your own risk and education.

Is there any way of sharing my Macbook Pro's Wifi connection to iPhone 4 (Not Using iPhone as hotspot for laptop the other way around)

So a nasty smash destroyed both Front & Back of my iPhone 4, and since having them replaced the Wifi signal has been really weak.
I have seen other posts about screen replacement having to be done by going through the antenna, so something could be missing, or done incorrectly during the screen repair. Will definately be taking it back to the shop and finding out if It was put back together properly.
In the meantime I was wondering if it is possible to share my Macbook Pro's Wifi (always full signal in my house) directly to my iPhone either using USB cable or through bluetooth. It's not been too much of a problem but it would be nice to use my iPhone in bedroom using the Macbooks good signal.
Note: The replacement front screen on iPhone has a small gap >1mm between the screen and centre metal casing on the left side just above the Silent/Loud Switch, which can be noticed by light leaking through the gap. The metal casing also still has a small dent between the volume down buttons and silent/loud switch, again nothing drastic 1mm maximum

Here is the start of the setup:
Click on the Wi-Fi Options button and provide the needed info:
Click on the OK button. Now check the Internet Sharing box to turn it all on. If the port box you checked is no longer checked, then uncheck Internet Sharing, check the port box again, then check the Internet Sharing box again.

I've connected my external monitor (LG) to my new Macbook Pro 15" laptop, using the adaptor for VGA...the display now has a large black bar along the left side. No adjustment on the monitor will fix it, no "options" on System Prefs either...any ideas?

I've just purchased a new Macbook Pro, and connected it ot my external monitor (24" LG HD) using an Apple VGA adaptor. The only resolution that looks good is the 1920 x 1080, but the image does not entirely fill the screen. There is a large black gap on the left side of the screen now. It worked fine with my "last generation" Macbook Pro...no adjustment on the monitor will help, and cannot find any System Setting in displays such as "options" or widescreen setting. I've gone to the LG site, but no "Mac" related tech support issues come up...no forum here seems to deal with this particular issue either...any ideas?

I have the same thing but with a 23 inch HP, worked fine with my MBP 13 from 2009 but the 2011 2.4 i5 does the exact same thing as yours!
Very confused and hoping that some one else can help.
Thanks

Leaking light on retina display - Macbook Pro 13"

Hi,
I recently purchased a Macbook Pro with Retina display. On watching a movie in the dark, i notice light leaking into the screen. It's like the screen isn't sealed properly against the casing and I'm assuming the light being produced inside the the case is being reflected and 'oozing' through gaps. This link has some examples https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=retina+display+light+leaks+2014&espv=2&biw=105 0&bih=610&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=YctMVLifFKy17gay6IGYCg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ.
The leaking isn't as bad as some of those pictured, but it's noticeable and I would expect a black screen to be evenly dark (even with the brightness all the way up). Should I return the mac and get a replacement?
Cheers
Alex

If you're within 14 days of purchase you can exchange your machine for another or request a full refund. If you're beyond 14 days from date of purchase, you will need to make an appointment at your local Apple Store or an AASP and have them run tests to (hopefully) replace the screen.
Good luck,
Clinton
MacBook Pro (15” Late 2011), OS X Yosemite 10.10, 16GB Crucial RAM, 960GB M500 Crucial SSD, 27” Apple Thunderbolt Display

Brand new Macbook Pro not pairing with Apple Keyboard and mouse!

Hi all, I have a brand new Macbook Pro and an older wireless Apple Keyboard and Mouse (that were being previously used with my imac G5).
Now I want to use these for this macbook. I am finding that they are being recognised but not pairing up?
Do you need to stop the previous pairing with the imac before they will pair with the Macbook?
Or do I need to update specific software? (I would have thought it has all the necessary updates already installed).
I am running Snow leopard.
I have brand new batteries in the keyboard and mouse.
I really appreciate any helpful advice. Sorry if the answer is obvious!
Thanks

Hi there, i had a problem pairing an Apple wireless keyboard with my MacBook pro but managed to solve it.
The default passkey option in Bluetooth setup assistant is 'automatic' which will (if the MacBook can 'see' the keyboard in the first instance) then say something like 'your device may prompt you to enter the following passcode 1234 5678'
Obviously the keyboard doesn't provide any feedback - I went ahead and typed the number and hit the return key a number of times - the MacBook then displayed a 'pairing failed - you may have entered the incorrect passkey' message.
What i was doing wrong was keying only numbers - when i keyed 1234[SPACE]5678 + RETURN pairing worked.
I had thought the 'gap' in the passcode was to make it easier to read, not that it implied a space in the passcode.
Hope that helps.
Simon

My Macbook pro Early 2008 is randomly slow at starting up and when I am backing up to my time capsule I am receiving the following message 'Time machine could not complete the backup. '' ''The backup disk image ''/Volumes/name time capsule/ my name MacBoo

My Macbook pro Early 2008 is randomly slow at starting up and when I am backing up to my time capsule I am receiving the following message 'Time machine could not complete the backup. '' ''The backup disk image ''/Volumes/name time capsule/ my name MacBook Pro (4).sparsebundle'' could not be accessed (error-1).
Problem started after deleting parrell desktop and window7 ?
Please help?

Look at the more like this column on the right.. this is the most frequently asked question in this discussion area.
Reboot the TC.. restart the whole network if the simple reboot did not work.. start in order. modem.. router/TC.. clients. 2min gap.
Read C12 here. http://pondini.org/TM/Troubleshooting.html

MacBook Pro Closure Gap

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