MacBook Pro name sticker

Am I going crazy or is the "MacBook Pro" name/logo which is located under the display, a sticker. Just today I was wiping some dust off the screen, and the 'c' in 'Mac' came halfway off. I managed to stick it back on, but now I afraid that the rest of the letters will fall off, and that would just be a shame since that text looks pretty **** pretty.
Anyone else have this happen to them? and does AppleCare cover falling off stickers?
I just prefer having all of my machines in mint condition - like this MBP in question, I had for months now, and still not a single scratch or any other damage.

This appears to be a common problem...
Heres a similar question http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4217731&#4217731
I myself now own a 'Ma Book Pro

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How to add MacBook Pro name in iphone5 iCloud as a family sharing device.

How to add MacBook Pro name in iphone5 iCloud as a family sharing device.
i have added my family members in my iPhone 5 with newly updated iOS 8 os, but when i am doing same procedure to add my macbook pro it's giving an error message that cannot send an invitation to your own account.
Kindly help me how to add matchbook pro in iphone5.
Thanks

Hello Appu Iyer,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Family Sharing is not dictated by the device, but the Apple ID associated with the device. Please take a look at the following support article to learn more about Family Sharing.
Family Sharing
Take care,
Alex H.

Macbook pro name

My macbook pro name has become 'Chris Ready's Macbook Pro (2)' rather than 'Chris Ready's Macbook Pro'. Any ideas why or how to rectify it?
Thanks

Seems to happen from time to time. Just change it back in the Sharing preferences.

MacBook Pro name is being changed by adding ()

MacBook Pro name is being changed by adding () after the name and incrementally increasing the number in (). I am using Yosemite. I cannot determine what causes the number to be increased, but I am at 13 after resetting it this morning. This prevents my iOS devices from syncing wirelessly as they are looking for a different name. I have reset the name several times and this continues to occur.
I first noticed this issue during the Yosemite beta and reported it as an issue.
Has anyone else experienced this issue and found a solution?

I had this happen also. I reset my router and the problem stopped.
regards

Macbook Pro name keeps changing?

A few weeks ago, my MacBook Pro was named "Russell's MacBook Pro." Then it changed, seemingly randomly, to "Russell's MacBook Pro 2." I figured, okay, that's weird, but I did upgrade to Yosemite, perhaps something got scrambled. Now it's changed again and I'm on "Russell's MacBook Pro 3" and I'm wondering what I'm doing to make this happen.

hum long are the days Apple could make software that just work. My iPhone 6 has a ton of issues, I made the mistake to update my Macbook to Yosemite now my mac has a ton of issues and of course my Apple TV stop working after ios8 and Yo so I had to update that too and now it too has a ton of issues. Airplay works on and off an wifi is slow to name a few (not to mention it also changes it's name to something (integer) just like my mac). Man I really miss Steve he would never allow these products to be released, I'm not hating I'm just saying it's half-*** built and they know it yet they push it out to the public :/

MacBook Pro name in Router

In my dLiink router , iphones ipods and 2 PC's show up in he router. My MacBook Pro doesn't. It is listed as "unknown".
How can I get the macBook Pro to show up in the router?

Sometimes this is because of a name length limit. If the computer name is too long then the router may dismiss it, so try using a shorter computer name to see if that shows up in the router.

MacBook Pro trackpad sticking, acting strange

My MacBook Pro Mid 2012's trackpad has started making clicking sounds when I click on it (it never used to be this audible) and feels as if somehow some kind of sticky liquid has gained access to it -- however, since I am the sole owner and user and have never, ever spilled any liquid on or near it, I can't figure out why this has become so.
I've had other Mac laptops where some kind of liquid HAD been spilled on it, and the feeling is similar, but not nearly as pronounced.
I don't know quite how to explain it, but if I very, very gently press down on it with my thumb, there is sort of a "pre-click" before it actually clicks. This is, now that I've tried it a couple of times, very noticeable.
Furthermore, sometimes when I'm scrolling through a Web page, not pressing down at all, it suddenly starts "selecting" blocks of text, and also occasionally goes to a link without my having clicked anywhere.
Other times, I try to scroll with the two-fingered method (lightly holding two fingers together and sweeping them downwards without any downwards pressure) it doesn't scroll at all.
It's definitely not normal behaviour -- I've had Mac laptops since the PowerBook 5300ce and I know my trackpads!
I know you're going to say I must have inadvertently deposited some liquid on it at some time and just not noticed, but I can swear this is not the case.
At any rate, are there any measures I can take by myself to try to clean underneath it without taking the whole thing apart or taking it in and paying $200 for someone to take a look at it?
Perhaps I should give it up and get a mouse for it . . .

"Taking it apart" is not an option for just cleaning the trackpad in these models. The trackpad and keyboard are the first components bonded into the chassis, and EVERYTHING else goes on top, hence would require a total disassembly. 10/10 degree of difficulty and high probability of gaining a fancy paperweight or doorstop afterwards. If 2012, then it is almost certainly within the one-year base warranty period: let Apple deal with the problem.
That being said and in lieu of a visit to the Store, note that the trackpad pivots down along the front edge. Hence there is a tiny gap between it and the chassis to allow movement. Examine that airgap very carefully with a strong light and a magnifier. Two things to look for: any sticky fluid that may have trickled down or mechanical obstruction impeding free movement. Dirt, crumbs and such can work themselves in there and do the trick. If found, try to work it out with a can of compressed air; a "duster", if you will., maybe helped with a very fine brush. If that doesn't work, some success has been reported by using very high quality spray electronic parts cleaner, non-residual, sprayed with the Mac UPSIDE DOWN so none trickles down into the guts. But I still recommend a trip to the Store first.
And you may give serious consideration to buying AppleCare and extending the warranty coverage for an additional two years. Just remember it has to be bought and activated BEFORE the base warranty runs out.

New MacBook Pro or stick with what I love?

Hi-
I jumped back into the world of Apple with a 15" MacBook Pro purchase in July of 2007. Absolutely love this computer. One thing I have taken advantage of over the years is the ability to do the following:
-Upgrade the RAM memory.
-Upgrade the Hard drive capacity
-repair the LCD
-replace the keyboard (my wifes computer-same model as mine)
-most importantly replace the battery. Probably about every 18 months or so. I beleive I have bought about 3 or 4 batteries for each computer over the last almost 6 years.
My MacBook Pro has now reached the stage where the keyboard needs to be replaced and the LCD plastic bezel is cracking just above the bottom horizontal line. I also suspect my WiFi radio is starting to weaken-if that's possible-just seems like it it taking longer to find and make connections. I travel-3 weeks out of 4.
I'm still happy with my computer's performance. Run a lot of business apps, run VM Ware to support Windows 7 apps, Run a database customer management app. Do like using iMovie on occassion.
Here's the question:
It really bugs me that the new MacBook Pro's are untouchable by the user. The truth of the matter is I don't want to do this upgrade work-but liked that I could on my present product. What really bugs me is that I can't even change the battery. I'm not in town long enough, and my travel can be last minute in nature that an appointment at the Apple Store to change a battery is REALLY un appealing to me.
My questions are:
-How long is the battery lasting in these new architectures?
-If you have to have it replaced-what is the procedure and wait time? It's also not optional for me to leave my computer for a few days at the store. I run two businesses and (Unfortunately) live on the laptop. 7 days a week and sometimes well over 12 hours/day.
Love to hear from those that have the new Pro and a similar use model as i do.
Thanks!

MacBook Pro
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_pro
http://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro
Can't really comment, this forum is for the workstations tower and 60lbs more than a laptop
Someone like MacSales where you send you computer to them and t hey do the work, and maybe you do need to rent or have a spare even - can't do everyt hing on a tablet.
A backup computer which is what I have done - maybe not ideal but a MacBook Air is popular with road warriors.
And Apple Store Specials are warranty covered ref'd to good as or better than new.
http://www.macsales.com has always had the RAM and SSD or disk drive upgrades for MBP.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3_160 0MHz_SDRAM

Aperture on MacBook, MacBook Pro, or stick with G4 PowerBook for now?

Hello there,
My question may have been asked and answered already, but I can't find it so I'll ask anyway.
I am currently running a 1.67GHz PowerBook with 2 GBs RAM, 120GB hard drive and - while at home - a 20" Apple Cinema Display.
I really want to use Aperture as my sole import, export and management tool for raw files, however photography is my hobby and in my working environment the only way I can get time out to take photographs is if I can provide feedback - images - to people around me to make it worth their while covering for me while I snap away.
That was a long sentence!
The problem I have is that on my PowerBook Aperture runs at an infuriatingly slow pace compared to Adobe products. This is not a problem when I am at home, but as I mentioned, at work I need instant results. Can anyone who has used Aperture "in the field" on both a PowerBook and a MacBook/MacBook Pro comment on how much faster images render etc? Import and export are fine, but I want to be able to make changes and move on to the next image without having to sit and wait for completion of the last one.
So can anyone tell me whether making the jump to a MacBook/Pro would make enough of a difference over the PowerBook to be worth the outlay right now, or am I better to just sit tight and wait for the next MacBook Pro edition. In the meantime using Lightroom, or else missing some fantastic photo opportunities while at work?
I am running on a clean OSX install with a library of nearly 8,000 images around 2,000 of which are various forms of raw. I am currently using a Nikon D200 with raw file sizes of >15MB.
I have Aperture running on its own, no other apps are open.
I am only shooting raw, so score the JPEG suggestion from your lists!
Only advice from people who have actually USED the products mentioned please. Plus I am not slating Aperture, or in any way deriding Apple products, just asking for sound advice.
12" 1.33GHz PB G4/15" 1.67GHz PB G4/Dual 2.0GHz PowerMacG5 Mac OS X (10.4.6)

The MacBook Pro weighs only 6 ounces
more than a MacBook, and is thinner; hardly a "boat
anchor."
I am using a 12" Powerbook because it is the smallest laptop they sell. The 15" MBP is not a weight or thickness issue. The thing is just to dang big in the other two dimensions to transport and use in the field. You can't use it on a airplane seat in coach. It won't fit in a normal laptop bag. It's too big. The 13" MB is too big too, but is much closer to what I'm looking for. Maybe I'm really looking for a subnotebook VAIO that runs OSX...
Also, the extra screen real estate makes it
a much more functional Aperture box.
I have a quad g5 with multiple monitors as my primary Aperture machine. I want a machine for the field.
If you really
want a powerful laptop with a quality small screen my
guess is we will see one by this fall.
From your mouth to Steve's ears.. Perhaps the real problem is that Aperture is relying on the GPU so extensively that a machine with a blazing fast dual core CPU can't run it due to graphics limitations. Remember, this is NOT a high framerate 3d game, it's photo workflow software...
--tom
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Macbook Pro mouse sticking.

Guys, is there a way to stop my MBP mouse from sticking? It is super annoying. Thanks!

If you go to the Keyboard & Mouse System Preferences > Trackpad you'll see a "Ignore accidental trackpad input" (or something like) preference. I find that turning this off is better for me.

Can I swap the hard drive from MacBook Pro 17 (2009) to MacBook Pro 15 (2006)?

My MacBook Pro 17 (2009) died. Pushing the power button gets no response. I had had problems with it for some time turning it on, it usually taking many many tries. Plus when I'd try to do a restart after updating software, instead of doing so it'd shut off super quick with a *pop* sound. There was never any of the typical hard drive going bad sounds I've read about and seen in videos. Since it has refused to turn on I've gone through every suggestion I can find to get it to turn back on. Unhook the battery and try starting from just the power cord; the shorting the power pads move; some thing undoing the battery, counting to 10, and then the next steps now escape my memory, but doing more counting to 10 inbetween; unplugging the battery and leaving it sit for 2 days with no power cord plugged in either, then hook it to a power cord and turn it back on; and so many more.
Also the symptoms just before this fiasco were as follows: I had a CD in the internal drive and was browsing through the images on it via the handy previewer using the space bar. Then I decided to quite, tried ejecting the CD by dragging the icon to the trash, and nothing. I tried again. The same. Then I pushed on the eject key, with the ejct icon popping up on the screen momentarily, but still nothing. Then it appreared as though some things worked and other things were not working. In my frustration I went to the Apple menu and clicked restart with a wince knowing it was going to take forever to turn back on. It did the usual quickly off with a *pop* and made super short lame attempts to turn back on when using the power button. Of course the CD kept trying to spin for a split second and then the little indicator light on the front would go out, then no noise at all.
Since I do not believe it is the hard drive (of course I could be wrong not being a Mac nerd at all), I was wondering if I can switch the hard drive to my Macbook Pro 15 (2006)?
I tried this, but it would not read the hard drive. Just a blank grey screen. If it is possible to do this swap, what are the exact steps to do? Please answer like I'm completely illiterate on this, because I really am. I'm super scared of losing everything on the dead MacBook's hard drive. Yeah yeah, I know: then why have I not been backing things up? I had the week prior. Believe me I WILL be doing it daily from now on if I get this mess straightened out!
Here are the specs for each MacBook Pro:
Name: MacBook Pro 17 (info gained from the serial on the bottom and then looked up online)
Model: A1297
Model Code: mbp_17_early_09
CPU Type: Intel Core 2 Duo
CPU Speed: 2.8GHz
RAM Type: DDR3 PC8500 SODIMM 1066MHz
RAM Slots: 2
Max RAM by Slot: 2 x 4GB
Maximum RAM: 8GB
RAM Pairing: Modules may be installed individually
Hard Drive Connection: SATA 300
Hard Drive Platter Size: 2.5"
Device Connectivity: USB 2.0, FireWire 800
Video Output (base graphics option): Mini DisplayPort
Expansion Slots: ExpressCard/34
Max Operating System Version: 10.6.8 (I believe that is what was last on the computer)
Name:    MacBook Pro 15" (retrieved from the System Profiler on this Mac)
Model Identifier:    MacBookPro2,2
Processor Name:    Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:    2.33 GHz
Number Of Processors:    1
Total Number Of Cores:    2
L2 Cache:    4 MB
Memory:    3 GB
Bus Speed:    667 MHz
Boot ROM Version:    MBP22.00A5.B07
SMC Version (system):    1.12f5

OGELTHORPE really sorry to keep bugging you, but it's obvious you know what you are talking about and I'm stuck on thin ice here getting this fixed, because there are no authorized Apple reps here. I would rather shoot myself for messing up, then to trust someone who "says" they can fix my Mac down here.
I checked out a company owned by ebay that is the same down here, called MercadoLibre. There are quite a few adapters listed there. I'd like to give you links for some and was wondering if you minded taking a look to tell me if any seem to fit the bill. Some have specs in English, others don't. (Google translater is my friend!)
#1. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-415826915-adaptador-usb-a-ide-y-sata-con -cables-y-fuente-envio-gratis-_JM
#2. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416270876-usb-20-to-ide-sata-25-35-hard- drive-_JM#D[S:HOME,L:HISTORY,V:1]
#3. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416384859-adaptador-usb-20-a-sataide-_JM
#4. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-415596152-adaptador-usb-20-para-sata-e-i de-manhattan-_JM
#5. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416061182-adaptador-de-usb-a-sata-o-ide- 3525-con-fuente-externa-_JM
#6. http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-416061069-convertidor-usb-20-a-sata-hdd- 25-soporta-hasta-1tb-_JM
These are all cost effective enough that I don't care the price - cheap, expensive - whichever will work the BEST!
I've also looked for the 7200 rpm HDD, and although I found some, I'll be danged if they are not 3.0, instead of the 2.5 that I have. Grrrr! I was willing to spend the $90 for 1tb... or being the non-techie that I am, can this 3.0 go into my 2006 MBP??
Just so you can see what all is listed right now:
http://listado.mercadolibre.com.uy/7200-rpm-hdd-2.5-macbook-pro
Another newbie question: How do I check what the amount if RAM is presently installed in it? (I might be a greenhorn, but I take pride in not being a dumbie and I learn when taught)
Right now, I'm willing to spend almost anything. I want a few files that are on the HDD at the moment that I was stupid and did not backup on my external. One file I worked on all day due to the dimensions I had to design it at and each effect took a long time to render. I really don't want to do that one again!.. I'm also willing to spend anything that won't cost me the price of a new iMac. Figure that should be the next one I buy that is affordable, but won't be overworked like the MBP was.
Once again, thanks much for all of your help!

Is there a way of improving my graphics on my early 2011 macbook pro 13"?

Does anyone know a way of improving the graphics capability for OpenGL with the Intel 3000 chips in the early 2011 MBP 13"? I bought it not realising the graphics chips had been downgraded and now as a result struggle to do any CGI work that I rely on my computer to do.

CHRIBAM wrote:
I'm more inclined to go with Ogelthorpe's advice (if I had the cash).
I agree with Ogelthorpe as well, the 15" and the 17" MacBook Pro also have dedicated graphics cards which give more performance than the Intel HD 3000 only graphics, which is really of MacBook type performance for consumer user. (playback of video and that's about it)
Still wondering why Apple went backwards for graphics in the 13", I completely missed the change.
I'm peeved at Apple for the fact that they didn't make a clear distinction of the disadvantages of the 13" with no dedicated graphics card then lumped it in with the 15" and 17" which do.
To Apple it's a matter of performance for price, the 13" scores 11 on Cinebench, the 15/17" score 30 and 45, so the 13" doesn't even come close. But it comes in the same silver case, the same "MacBook Pro" name, when in fact it's not so.
Apple knows people would be attracted to the performance of the MacBook Pro name in a small size factor, the price is also attractive to the younger crowd, the younger crowd are also interested in running 3D games, which need a more powerful video card.
Your not the first who's complained and feels burned, you trusted Apple was selling you a powerful MacBook Pro machine and you've got a consumer machine instead.
The 13" Mac laptop should have gotten it's own category, called it a MacBook instead and it should have come with white or black case. But that would have angered Intel most likely, who are trying to push integrated graphics on their CPU's so they own the whole show eventually.
It's going to take a long time before CPU integrated graphics is ever going to beat dedicated GPU graphics, because 3D game detail is always going to go up until it finally reaches 3D raytracing at 200 fps.
What Apple is doing is trying to get folks hooked on lessor quality/detail games, the ones you see on iPads and iPhones, and away from wanting rich detail which needs a powerful dedicated video card.
So Apple lumps the 13" MacBook in with the MacBook Pro line, try to force the issue, next they will try it with the 15", integrated graphics on the low end model. Then again only dedicated graphics on the 17" model and so forth. Eventually developers won't make as many 3D games for Mac's because most people buy laptops, cuts into their potential sales.
If you really want to run 3D games, you have to go with a Windows 7 desktop where the video card can be swtiched out.
http://www.cbscores.com/index.php?sort=ogl&order=desc

Migration from Macbook Pro, settings are macbook pro

I have migrated my data from Macbook Pro Retina using migration assistance. During the process I didn't allow it to override my current profile, or something. Now when I use terminal, it says
Name-Macbook-Pro:~ name $
shouldn't it say
Name-Mac-Mini:~ name $
instead?
Also, when I'm going into my apple store, it has applications for enhancing macbook pro retina experience. How do I change all this?
Thanks!

Nevermind, I found out that it was because my Device's name was changed, and in order to change that, just go to shared folder in the preferences and it can be changed there.

MacBook Pro, Intel Core 2 Duo - Mouse "Stutter"

So, I had an issue which was driving me up the wall - basically the mouse on my MacBook Pro would "stick" on a fairly regular basis. Just often enough to make working life unbearable. Actually, to be more accurate the pointer would briefly freeze whatever input method was being used (i.e. it'd do it with the trackpad).
To cut a long story short, going back to the original install disks and NOT using software update seems to have fixed things. Hypothesis is that a recent software update item introduces this problem. Which update I'm not too sure but my OS is frozen for the time being!
HTH someone.
Simon

I have the same problem on the same hardware. Both usb mouse (tried several types) and trackpad.
I tried to reset the controller thingy by removing the battery and pressing the power button for 5 secs. On reboot it worked again, but now is not. That was yesterday. I also notice it is a pause in ANY input, even typing, as though the processor was stalling momentarily or something, kind of like when you would run winxp on a slow computer.
I really dont want to have to reinstall osx.

"Black"book or Macbook Pro?

I intend to buy a Mac this week and I have been intending to purchase the "Blackbook". However, i'm not sure if I should pay a little bit more for the Macbook Pro...
My main intentions for this Mac would be for internet browsing and heavy video editing, so obviously the Macbook would need to be able to deal with HD videos etc. Maybe the odd game or two and a fair bit of usage of the likes of Fireworks or Dreamweaver. Then again, nobody uses a computer for ONE thing...
Based on my core uses for this Macbook, do you think it's worth forking out that bit more for the Macbook Pro or stick to a Blackbook?
Thanks

If you're going to do heavy video editing, forget about a MacBook. Get the MBP. I've owner both, and the main reason I sold the MacBook, was because of the weaker graphics circuit.
I would order one with the 256M video card and max the RAM out to 4GB. You can buy third-party RAM, install it yourself and save a considerable amount of money.
-Bmer
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MacBook Pro name sticker

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