MacBook Pro Retina, left in bag in the rain. Can I check for water damage?

Hey all,
Today, while my laptop was in its sleeve in my bag, it started to rain quite heavily. My bag was exposed to the rain for maybe 15-25 minutes and the contents of my bag weren't too wet, however I noticed that there was a late patch of water on the corner of my sleeve. My MacBook Pro was in sleep and the lid was closed but after inspecting my MacBook Pro I found water to have been wedged between my mac and my plastic case I have on it on both the top and bottom as well as some on the black hinge connecting the body to the display and very little on the display side itself. My MacBook Pro woke from sleep fine but I switched it off anyway.
After drying drying my laptop and using a hair dryer to dry within the ports and vents in case , it is now currently drying. I don't want to switch it on in case there is water damage and it might short circuit.
My question is, is there a way I can check for water damage and what should I do now before I switch it on?

Did you take off the bottom panel? If not do so.
Make an appointment at an Apple store genius bar and have them inspect it. The evaluation will be FREE and they are in the best position to attack the issue.
Ciao.

Similar Messages

My left shift key on Macbook Pro Retina (15") is behaving like the F11 key (show/hide open windows). The key behaves the same for the laptop keyboard and for an external Apple keyboard? This just started in last week after 6 months of use

My left shift key on Macbook Pro Retina (15") is behaving like the F11 key (show/hide open windows).
The left shift key behaves the same on the laptop keyboard and on an external Apple keyboard.
This just started in last week after 6 months of use. The right shift key and other keys on the keyboard all appear to work correctly.
Suggestions greatly appreciated.

I have a solution to this issue now after a discussion with Apple Support. Some where in the last few weeks, there was a change in the key that would do a Show Desktop under the Mission Control settings in the System Preferences. Even though the key sequence that was shown for the Show Desktop setting did not include the Left SHift key, by changing this first to having no key sequence and applying that and then changing it back to the F11 key, the Left SHift key issue that I was having has cleared up.
A second issue that was uncovered was that the SSD had some issues (uncovered when I ran Disk Utility using the Repair Disk key). I had to restart and use the Disk Utility through the Command R sequence to get to the stand alone Disk Utility. The SSD appears to be running better as a result as well.
Hope that this is of use to someone else in the future.

Why does my macbook pro retina display shutdown while entering the administer account

why does my macbook pro retina display shutdown while entering the administer account

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a diagnostic test. It’s unlikely to solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
The purpose of the test is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party software that loads automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, or by corruption of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Boot in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain iMacs. The next normal boot may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin. Test while in safe mode. Same problem? After testing, reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of the test.

Does the battery charging in the macbook pro retina automatically cut off when the battery is fully charged?

Does the battery charging in the macbook pro retina automatically cut off when the battery is fully charged? or does it continue charging?In which case,is it better for the battery life to switch off the power supply or leave it on while using the macbook?

Yes, and the pilot light on the MagSafe2 connector changes from orange to green. If you unplug, you will start draining the battery again, whereas if plugged the Mac will take power from the brick and leave the battery in a charged state.

My 15" MacBook Pro (early 2008) will not empty the trash can.The operation can't be completed because an unexpected error occurred (error code -8003).

My 15" MacBook Pro (early 2008) will not empty the trash can.The operation can’t be completed because an unexpected error occurred (error code -8003).

Just the Option key. Third from the left on the bottom row.
If that does not work, try the more elaborate steps described here:
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20020873-263.html

Macbook pro wont shut down without holding the power button nor cycle for updates to restart.

macbook pro wont shut down without holding the power button nor cycle for updates to restart

Sorry I said sorta wrong. I can shut down and I can update to the point of restart but it just sat for 45 minutes after an update. It goes through the update and to restart then the bars chase each other in a circle and it never restarts. So I hit the power button and go through normal reboot but loosing the update in the process. It does not matter how long I wait for a natural reboot after an update or click to restart it will chase the little bar in circles all day literally and never reboot.

My Macbook Pro Retina's USB port on the right side not working at all

Dear all,
I received my macbook pro 15inch with retina display a week ago, but not until today had I got the chance to use the USB port on the right side, only to find out that it is not connecting to anything at all. I have tried to use my iPhone 4 and iPad 3 with two different cables, my USB thumb drive, and my Blackberry 9900, none of them are charging nor shown in iTunes/Finder. All of above works on the left and on other windows machines too.
I'm also not able to charge my Blackberry with the usb port on the left side, thought it would pop up a message saying "charging not supported" on the phone.
For you information, I have applied both updates including the one released few days ago. I have also tried to reset the PRAM. Also, I have migrated from my old late 2008 13inch unibody Macbook using Migration Assistant, not sure if this would affect anything.
I'm aware that there have been reports and discussions regarding the USB port not been able to run devices on 3.0 speed, but I wonder if anyone else have the same problem with me, where the port simply not connecting to anything at all?

I also have a problem with the USB port on the right side of my Retina MBP. The USB3.0 port on the left side works fine, even with high speed external SSD enclosures, like the OWC Mercury Extreme Pro 6G which enables me to copy large files at a sustained rate of 160-170MB/sec. Wow USB3.0 and the Mercury SSD is a FAAAAST combination connected to the Retina MBP.
However, like the forum entries about the USB3.0 ports in general on the new Retina MBP, the USB3.0 port on the RIGHT side is plagued with dropping intermittently, disconnecting my external hard drives while copying large files AS WELL AS disconnecting while just sitting there connected to an external hard drive and doing nothing.
Therefore, since I don't feel like returning my Retina MBP and waiting weeks for a replacement, I have chosen to only use the left side USB3.0 port for now.
I have my suspicions about why the right side USB port might be more problematic than the left side one. I found this older post on the internet about how "Not all USB ports are created equal on MacBooks..." that talks about how on older models of MacBooks one of the USB ports shares a USB hub with multiple other devices like the iSight camera etc. therefore making it less tolerant of heavy traffic or something like that. (http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2008/05/the-macbook-all/)
Therefore, I wonder if the right side USB port is sharing a USB internal hub where-as the left side one is more 'dedicated' and therefore in my case able to handle the high speed transfers/traffic I am throwing at it with my external SSDs.
I have also read that USB3.0 in general, on non-Macs, has had trouble for years. For instance, some forum entries on Apple Support Communities and other non-Apple forums has made mention that 'they' are not surprised at the problems encountered on USB3.0 external hard drives connected to the Retina MBP because Windows laptops have had a lot of flakey problems with USB3.0 for 'years'.
Also, I have recently purchased a "Buffalo" external Thunderbolt 1TB drive from OWC and have been doing Clones onto that drive for several weeks. I use SuperDuper to clone >600GB of data on my 768GB Retina MBP several times a week. And, I have (knock on wood) not had any problems with the stability of my externally connected Thunderbolt drive.
So, in my case, I am racking it up to high-speed stresses on the USB3.0 ports at least in part...and perhaps the possibility that the LEFT side USB port on the Retina MBP is more dependable and/or a more dedicated USB port than the right side one.
This doesn't really solve your problem, but it may at least help you feel like you are not alone.

I just recently purchased Macbook Pro Retina, and I am wondering how I can migrate my stuff from my old MCP to the new one?

Migration has made my life so much easier two years ago when I replaced my iMAC.
Now I am replacing Macbook Pro to the new one with Retina display.
I used to use Firwire to migrate all my data to the new machine.
However in the new MBP, there is no more firewire, but USB 3.0 and Thunderbolt.
My old MBP has neither.
Is it still possible to migrate? What should I do?

https://discussions.apple.com/message/18666066#18666066
https://discussions.apple.com/message/18629022#18629022

What controller do I use with my 15" Macbook Pro Retina to play games like the Lego Star Wars series?

I have a bright and shining new 15" Macbook Pro with Retina display. I did not upgrade the processor or the storage. I want to play games on this great computer, too, games that need a controller . . ie . . The Lego Star Wars series and other action games that require a controller like I use on my X Box 360.
What works? What works best?

It would help to post this in a more proper form. This is for the iTunes family of stores.

May I know how to update preinstalled iPhoto in MacBook Pro?I was not given the password which was required for updating.

I need to update my preinstalled iPhoto in my MacBook Pro, how ever i was not issued with the password needed for updating.

AppStore software and the free iLife included on new Mac's is copy protected and can only be updated or reinstalled (free) by the original owner.
If you bought the machine used or a "open box", the original owner should have wiped the Macintosh HD partition and just reinstalled OS X, but many don't do that or what occurs is the store reinstalls OS X free and then free iLife using their AppleID.
So when it comes time to update it, you can't because you have a different AppleID and password.
It's terrible hassle with all this mega-copy protection shenanigans because it allows someone to sell you a used Mac with tons of software for more money you later can't update for security issues and compatibly with newer OS X versions.
So you can either to choose to use it as is, or wipe and reinstall OS X and then buy a copy of the software, then it will be in your name.

MacBook Pro Retina 15" Models - which is the latest?

My rMBP model number is MC975X/A. There is a model on Amazon advertised as being the 'newest' which has the serial of MC975LL/A.
I can't find a list of rMBP models - thought I might see if anyone in the community knew more about this. I will probably ask to see a new model in store and decide if I want bother swapping.
I just it and I'm happy with it, even though I have detected slight ghosting (which I might never have noticed unless prompted by forum threads) and the bottom plate is slightly sqeaky (why I got on the forum to take a look in the first place). I can live with those things although I'd prefer
When I bought it, I checked with the Apple store person if it was the latest. He said yes - probably not realising I was asking about the occasional silent upgrades models get. I wanted to know because the retina was a groundbreaking new product with a new interior design, and I thought that after six or so months this might ahve been improved.

The MC975 is the most recent model. The letters at the end indicate the country or region where the MBP is marketed.
Introduced     June 2012
Discontinued     --
Model Identifier     MacBookPro10,1
Model Number     A1398
Order Number     MC975LL/A (2.3 GHz) MC976LL/A (2.6 GHz)

MacBook Pro Retina late 2013 out-of-the-box Full Charge Capacity (mAh)

Hello! Can someone tell me what is the default value of Full Charge Capacity (mAh) parameter for MBPr 13 late 2013?
I suspect I have a battery capacity severely degraded, though I have only 42 charge cycles.

Make sure Power Nap on battery is unchecked.
Go to System Preferences.
Select the Energy Saver button.
Make sure the Enable Power Nap on Battery Power is unckecked. This will be located under the Battery tab in Energy Saver preferences.
Also, try resetting your SMC.
Resetting the SMC of an Intel-based portable Mac with a battery you should not remove on your own
Note: This will not delete any data.
The SMC is responsible for controlling various system functions. None of your data will be deleted by resetting the SMC.
Shut down the computer by going to Apple () > Shut Down…
Select Shut Down or allow the computer to shut down automatically.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter into a power source and then connect it to your Mac if you have not already done so.
On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift (⇧), Control (⌃), and Option (⌥) keys and the Power Button at the same time.
Release the (left side) Shift (⇧), Control (⌃), and Option (⌥) keys and the Power Button at the same time.
I hope I solved your problem.
Austin

Can I add the serial numbers of my already stolen macbook pro to Find My Mac so the laptop can be located in my icloud system?

I wonder if Apple could make this happen to help customers track their stolen macs!!!

No, this is not possible.

MacBook Pro retina 13" (late 2013, Haswell) why is the highest resolution rendered in 3360x2100, which the system obviously can't handle?!

Hey Apple and Apple users,
I just recently switched from an MacBook Air (mid 2013) to the new Haswell MacBook Pro retina 13" (late 2013 model).
The main reason to do so was the better screen and the option to run higher scaled resolutions, as advertised.
I was willing to trade in the Air's low weight, smaller formfactor and the extra batterylife for the better screen.
When it comes to resolutions:
1280x800 is just a joke nowadays, why is the MacBook Pro still based on it? 13" and 1440x900 work quite fine...see MacBook Air.
1440x900 is okay in everyday life situations, but sometimes you just need "more space" as the third scaling option calls it as well in the display-settings.
1680x1050 on 13" can sometimes be challenging, but it is really fine if you need to work and have a lot UI elements to deal with (Photoshop etc.)
So 1680x1050 scaled on the 2560x1600 screen would be my daily driver for work. So I expected a scaling factor of "1.5238..." (2560/1680) will be used most of the time.
Frankly spoken...I am really disappointed by the 13" retina MacBook Pro and the way OS X Mavericks is handling the scaling.
It obiously works well and responsive with the 1280x800 non-scaling resolution ("best for retina, scaling factor 2: 1280 --> 2560).
Is still "okay-snappy" at 1440x900 (scaling factor 1.777...: 1440 --> 2560).
But it totally breaks down at 1680x1050 (scaling factor 1.523...: 1680 --> 2560).
I use "Mission Control" all the time and it is stuttering and slow...overall a sluggish and unbearable experience.
The same goes for Desktop-Switching by swiping the screens or resizing and moving windows and files around.
So I was wondering why...and then I noticed that when taking a screenshot of my entire screen (CMD + 3) the image size of the screenshot was 3360x2100 and not the expected 2560x1600.
This means Mavericks is not scaling the UI with the appropriate factor (see above). For retina MacBooks it ist simply rendering one pixel of the classic, non-retina Interface in now 4 pixels (2x2) and sending this straight to the screen, which then "scales" it down to the resolution it is able to display.
Why is this bothering me? – Because the machine has to do a lot more work to render the higher resolution that can't even be displayed, due to the screens limitations.
2560x1600 = 4096000 pixels = 100%
3360x2100 = 7056000 pixels = 172%
This means the MacBook has to render 72% more information than actually can be displayed on the built-in screen and are just lost.
Of course this makes the overall UI feel sluggish and idly! Especially with the not that performant Intel Iris IGP and no dedicated graphics card.
All this extra "rendering" just results in a worse battery life due to the extra work that the graphics card and CPU have to do.
First, Apple...are you serious about this?
What can we do about this?
Is there a way to have this properly scaled?
Thanks in advance to everyone.

Okay...I thought deeply about this issue.
Even looking into ways to maybe fixing this on the software side. But it occured to me that this is to deeply embedded into the system that it won't be possbile to come up with a sufficient third-party solution.taht
The problem is that there is no intermediate step inbetween "standard DPI" graphics and "HiDPI" (image-resources named "[email protected]").
But there should be one, to minimize the amount of image information that needs to be processed by the device.
This effects especially the MacBook Pro retina 13", as it has the less powerful Intel Iris IGP, when performing on the highest scaled resolution (equivalent to 1650x1080).
As well as the MacBook Pro retina 15" without a dedicated, second Graphics Unit,when performing on the highest possible scaled resolution (equivalent to 1920x1200).
Those devices don't have enough resources to handle the consequential "HiDPI" resolutions of 3360x2100 for the 13" and 3840x2400 for the 15" model.
(Comment: 3840x2400 = 9,2MP, which is more than the standard 4K resolution of 3840x2160.
I analyzed the scaling factors as follows:
Factor "2" to display 1280x800 on the 13" model and 1440x900 on the 15" model in HiDPI.
Factor "1.777..." would be required to display 1440x900 on the 2560x1600 screen of the 13" model.
Factor "1.714..." would be required to display 1650x1080 on the 2880x1800 screen of the 15" model.
Factor "1.523..." would be required to display 1650x1080 on the 2560x1600 screen of the 13" model.
Factor "1.5" would be required to display 1920x1200 on the 2800x1800 screen of the 15" model.
As all the models seem to have no problem with rendering the intermediate scaling step (1440x900 for the 13" and 1680x1050 for the 15" model) at HiDPI, hence with the scaling factor 2. There is no real need to provide the UI-elements.
But in my opinion there is a strong need for a "MidDPI" ([email protected]) intermediate step for all the UI graphic elements that wis based on the scaling factor 1.5.
This would result in the following:
13" MacBook Pro retina with 2560x1600 screen:
1280x 800 @ 2x = 2560x1600 (no surplus, native screen resolution)
1440x 900 @ 2x = 2880x1800 (the surplus of 1088000px = ~1MP can still be handled and compansated by the weak Iris IGP)
1680x1050 @ 2x = 3360x2100 (the surplus of 2960000px = ~3MP is too much for the weak Iris IGP)
NEW 1680x1050 @ 1.5x = 2520x1575 (with a small border of left=20px, bottom=13, right=20, top=12 pixels, which means ~2,2mm and ~1.3mm around the 1.5x scaled image!).
15" MacBook Pro retina with 2880x1800 screen:
1440x900 @ 2x = 2880x1800 (no surplus, native screen resolution)
1680x1050 @ 2x = 3360x2100 (the surplus of 1872000px = ~2MP can still be handled by the Iris Pro IGP)
1920x1200 @ 2x = 3840x2400 (the surplus of 4032000px = ~4MP can't be handled sufficiently by the Iris Pro IGP)
NEW 1920x1200 @ 1.5x = 2800x1800 (nu surplus, native screen resolution, no border needed!)
The big advantage is that all the graphics have already been remodeled for the HiDPI mode.
So scaling those "factor 2x" images down to "factor 1.5x" should be comparably easy!
Example:
Left: Traditional "standard DPI" icon of "all my files".
Right: "@2x.png" for the "HiDPI" modes.
Middle: "@1.5x.png" suggestions for the "MidDPI" mode; easily scaled down from the lovely HiDPI graphics.
With this simple introduction of the "MidDPI" modes a significant amount of processing power can be saved.
This not only improves battery life when driving those higher scaled resolutions, but also lets the user access those resources for what really matters: processing power for the primary job that the Mac needs to get done.
Thanks in advance.

MacBook Pro Retina Problems with Headphone jack, Speakers, USB Port, MagSafe 2 and the hard drive

I took my MacBook Pro Retina 2.6GHz i7 to the genius bar to have the headphone jack looked at. I was told they could easily fix it but had to order the part. That day I took it home and returned to the store once I was notified that the part arrived so I could drop it off for repair. 3 days after I dropped my computer off with the genius bar I missed a phone call and returned to my iphone with a new voicemail. It said something like this, "Hello Tim, I just wanted to let you know that we replaced the headphone jack but it turned out not to be the problem and the problem was actually with the logic board. Don't worry though, we went ahead and replaced that for you, however, after that was done, the speakers stopped working but the headphone jack is fixed. We have to order new speakers to put in your computer b/c we don't have those on hand either."
Long story short, they fixed the speakers but, "had to order another part to repair the USB port." So I am waiting for that to be repaired but the dang AC Power to the actual computer does not work now!!! It's not the magsafe 2 charger that I have or the outlets I tried it in b/c I tried multiple chargers and multiple outlets. I am very frustrated! I have been without my computer for almost 2 weeks and still have to take it in at least twice more to get the power working this weekend and then again next week to (hopefully) get the USB port working.
At what point should I ask for a new computer or a refund? I have been using Apple Computers my whole life, I have had 8 different mac laptop models and have not had a problem until this computer. I am very frustrated with the support I have received from Apple as a whole.

Contact Apple Customer Relations and let them know that you're not happy. With the logic board replacement, everything else should have been evaluated and fixed at the same time. It sounds as if you just got a lemon. You could plead your case for a replacement unit, I would think, since your machine is being 'replaced' piecemeal...
Good luck,
Clinton

MacBook Pro Retina, left in bag in the rain. Can I check for water damage?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for