MacBook to TV Audio

I'm getting rid of cable TV and using an antenna for local broadcasts and a Roku for streaming. I also want to use my wife's laptop to display Hulu content on the TV (Vizio). I hooked up a mini DVI to HDMI cable and the video works fine but how do I get the audio? My TV has a couple of HDMI ports and right next to them are red and white RCA ports labeled R and L. Do I need to find a cable that will go from my earphone jack to these two RCA ports? Thanks.
jor

Only the newest MacBooks send audio through the mini-DVI port, so if you have an older version, you will need to buy a separate audio cable, yes.

Similar Messages

I am new to iMovies. When I make a video using the mic and camera in my Macbook Pro, the audio and video are not in synch. Very annoying. How can I fix this?

I am new to iMovies. When I make a video using the mic and camera in my Macbook Pro, the audio and video are not in synch. Very annoying. How can I fix this?

DVD drives read the bottom of the disk, not the top. Smooth out the paper & try again.

After recent upgrade to Yosemite on Macbook air bluetooth audio cuts out and associated video stops with audio. Likewise with airplay and Apple TV. I have deleted all my saved wifi connections and restarted numerous times. I do not expect a resolutio

After recent upgrade to Yosemite on Macbook air bluetooth audio cuts out and associated video stops with audio. Likewise with airplay and Apple TV. I have deleted all my saved wifi connections and restarted numerous times. I do not expect a resolution from the community, but hope to get the attention of Apple engineers. If you are having same problems or have a miracle cure I am all ears.

May start my own thread, but I'm having similar issues.
I've been using an old iMac (running 10.7.5) and Apple TV for years with no issues. Last week I bought a new Macbook Pro running Yosemite and have had audio issues multiple times. The weird thing is that sometimes it works flawlessly, other times (like now) I spend half an hour just trying to get a song to play.
My issues are: When I got to "computers" in Apple TV to stream my music, my music is sometimes chopper or intermittent, and I seen to know when it's going to happen based on the status wheel just before it plays. When I choose a song, the status wheel will spin for an unusually long time, usually an indicator that the audio is either not going to work, or stutter.
When it does finally pull up a song, the playhead sits at the beginning of the song for a good 3-5 seconds before actually playing. Then, when it starts playing, it's all downhill. It will play a few seconds, drop out, play a few more seconds, drop out, and then ultimately the playhead will keep moving across the song as if it's playing, but there's no audio.
Again, this is a new phenomenon never experienced by me. I've tried everything I could think of, some of them all at once:
• restart Apple TV
• restart Macbook Pro
• quite iTunes/open
• turn off Home Sharing on iTunes then reconnect it
• unplugging and cycling both my modem and router
None of these have alleviated the problem.
The odd thing is, like this morning, the audio started up perfectly and never gave me any issues. It wasn't until later in the day that it started. Perhaps after the macbook pro had been put to sleep? Not sure.
Regardless, this is an annoying trait, one that's new to me and my system (as stated, worked flawlessly until my new purchase), and is 100% limited to either a) the macbook pro b) Yosemite or c) both of them.

Want to get a new Macbook and import audio through USB? Look here.

FWIW, as I was reading many of these posts, a lot of folks are suggesting that you NEED firewire for audio interfaces. Here is a link to twenty (USB) audio interfaces and that is just at one site. I myself record hi end audio for film using a M-Audio Fast Track Ultra (8 in and 8 outs) along with Logic and Final Cut Pro. Firewire is great, can have less latency, and a lot of users still have gear. I won't get into that debate, it's been beat to death. Just wanted to be accurate to any budding musicians, etc. who might be scared off by all this talk re: Firewire a necessity for pro audio. Latency (a problem 'sometimes' associated with USB devises transferring slower data) is old news. Technology has come a long way since the days of a USB 1.0 MBox. Get a new Macbook, a good audio interface, write a great song and you're in business -- all in style with your new sexy MB. Here's the link: http://www.sweetwater.com/c695--USBAudioInterfaces

I'd still beg to differ, and I would hazard a guess that most people who work in Audio would agree that firewire interfaces are as a general rule of thumb, far superior. Now a reason that I'm not too inclined to recommend M-Audio is because I had an M-Audio USB interface, and it was nothing but trouble, pops clicks, dropouts, high on the CPU, it would reset the USB bus and cause crashes, often forcing me to reboot mid session. Plus the MIDI interface never did work!
I hope they've cleaned up their act since then, and I guess if you can get work done on your interface that they must have done.
I do find it odd though that the company who Apple partnered with to release some audio interfaces that work seamlessly with Garageband and Logic chose firewire, so if you buy a new macbook and want to use the interface that Apple recommends to use with garageband you can't.
Now one of the reasons I have a macbook, is that last year my iBook died, and I needed a new notebook to go with my MOTU interface, I could just about have stretched my budget to a MBP, but seeing as they used the Lucent (Agere) firewire chipset, there was a strong chance that any decent firewire interface wouldn't work with it, and I've heard that the new MBP uses the Lucent chipset, rather than the more dependable TI one, so there's a chance that professional audio may have to skip this whole generation of notebook refreshes, that is until Apple start using a decent chipset again.
And I'm sorry, the argument that Pros would only use the Pro machine seems a little naive (see above reason), sometimes portability is a pre-requisite for a persons needs, the portability that say the old 12" Powerbook had, which many still miss. Plus as far as portability goes many firewire multi channel interfaces are bus powered, something that AFAIK you can't get with USB.
But all audio interface disagreements aside, one thing that USB does not have, and I don't think could have, is DSP, like the SSL Duende, the TC Powercore, the Focusrite Liquidmix. All three which come in a variety of flavours, including the less powerful, but more price friendly variety, perfect for end users who want a bit of class but without paying the earth.
Message was edited by: myca

How can I tell if the mini dvi on my 2010 13" macbook pro supports audio?

How can I tell if the mini dvi on my 2010 13" macbook pro supports audio?

If it's a post 2009 Mac it supports audio on the HDMI port. See:
About Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapters
Mac mini (Mid 2010)- Frequently asked questions about HDMI

Running CS6 on a Macbook. Can anyone help me figure out how to record audio that is streaming on the Macbook? Under "Audio Hardware," my input choices are "Built in Mic" and "Built in Input." Neither does this.

Running CS6 on a Macbook. Can anyone help me figure out how to record audio that is streaming on the Macbook? Under "Audio Hardware," my input choices are "Built in Mic" and "Built in Input." Neither does this.

Please repost on the CS6 part of the Audition Forums.

HT202730 Macbook Pro Optical Audio Output Toggles On/Off

My Macbook Pro optical audio output seems to switch off with a loud click when sound is not playing for a few seconds.
Then, when sound resumes, there's a delay as it switches back on.
Is there a way to stop this toggling?
And please don't tell me to check the connections.
I've already tried different sample sizes and bit rates to no avail. It seems as if the system is switching something when there is no audio being played, then switching it on again. Even if the playback is only on pause.

Reset PRAM. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH18761
Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".

The Superdrive on my MacBook Pro ejects audio CDsa few seconds after they are inserted. This happens with both prerecorded CDs I have bought in music stores AND with audio CDs I have recorded myself, on the very same computer, via iTunes.

The Superdrive on my MacBook Pro ejects audio CDs just a few seconds after inserting them. This happens both with original audio CDs I have bought in music stores AND with audio CDs I have recorded myself, on the very same computer, via iTunes. The same does NOT happen with data CDs (e.g., stuff in mp3 format), which are read just fine. This behaviour started a couple of weeks ago, until then everything had worked just fine for years. I am running iTunes 11.1 under Snow Leopard 10.6.8. Any idea?
Fabrizio

You could also try a SMC reset:
Resetting the SMC (System Management Controller) on Intel-based Macs:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 and
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1237?viewlocale=en_US

Logic Studio, MacBook pro, M-Audio ProFire 610, M-Audio Axiom 61

I'm just about to get the above: Logic Studio, MacBook Pro, M-Audio ProFire 610 and the M-Audio Aziom 61, and want to know if any of the above (Logic Studio and MacBook Pro excluded) are a big mistake. I've been using an Aluminium Powerbook 17" 1.33MHz, and M-Audio MobilePre USB, and an Edirol controller, with guitar rig (and Controller), and Logic Express 7.
I need a set-up that will work as well in the studio, as it does on stage. We tend to plug everything in to the powerbook at the moment, and use Reason to power the synths, guitar rig for the guitars and bass, and logic express plugins for vocals etc.
Anyone have any experience with any of the above?
Cheers,
Adam

Hi Zuelito,
Please read my first paragraph again:
"I gotta RESPECTFULLY take issue with every point you bring up about M-Audio stuff, Zuelito..."
I'm not sure how you can be "slightly put off by the tenor" of my post given everything I said, with the one possible exception being my line about MOTU making crappy hardware - and that was based on personal experience. And while we're talking about the opinions of others, feel free to peruse the Unicornation board - it's full of MOTU users talking about firewire port failures and other hardware issues - so it appears neither of us is alone in our experiences
Seriously, if I was in some way brash or offensive in the way my post came off, I publicly and sincerely apologize. I really try to think about what I say (and how I say it) when posting on the 'net, for this very reason. I thought I simply stated my experience in an informative manner; again, please re-read my post - I hope it comes across as intended.
For what it's worth, I will say (even more clearly) that I've always loved MOTU products in terms of feature set; maybe that's why I've owned almost every product they've ever made! However, in my environment, I simply can't risk hardware failures, and their stuff has let me down too many times to keep rolling the dice. I will also divulge that one of their top tech support guys has acknowledged the firewire port problem. That's a shame, because they do make great stuff, conceptually. I really wish I could take a chance on that new 896mk3, but it ain't gonna happen for me; 6 dead firewire ports is enough of a failure rate for me to give up on them. To be fair, this probably isn't an issue for fixed installations, but I have to make these connections daily while on tour.
Also, I did NOT categorically state that "M-Audio stuff is better than MOTU." Again, if you re-read my post, it should be obvious that all I'm saying is I have a newfound respect for M-Audio, as of the new ProFire series. I also said in my first paragraph that I shared your opinion of M-Audio for a long time!
If this were all about M-Audio's 410 vs. MOTU's Ultralite (or other competition), we probably wouldn't even be having this discussion as I would have agreed with you - but the original poster specifically asked about the newer 610 with Logic, which is what I'm using on one of my rigs. I simply offered my personal experience.
As for drivers, I've not had any problems with M-Audio or their level of support. Just the opposite - they really seem to be on the ball and are way more communicative than other mfrs. I don't know of any other mfr. that supports each OS subrelease in detail like they do, and their development speed seems as fast (if not faster) than anyone else.
Finally, until now I've only owned a few M-Audio pieces (410, 1814), but I can state that they've been flawless. Their audio quality was not 'high end' by any stretch, but I only used them for utility purposes (writing rigs on the road, etc.). Like I said, my main studio stuff has been RME or Apogee for years, and that's the quality level I'm used to - which is why the 610 really surprised me. I also have several friends who do a LOT of touring, many of which rely on M-Audio hardware (mostly 410s). One guy's unit doesn't even have any paint left on it from road abuse - but it still works like a champ after 4 years.
So anyway, this is all just my experience. Hope it doesn't come across as anything but that
Peace,
Jim

Connect macbook to tv: audio

I can't figure out why the audio is not working on my TV when I connect my computer to my TV.
specs: MacBook 13" late 2008 aluminum model
tv: Toshiba 32AV502RZ
cables,: mini DisplayPort to HDMI adaptor, HDMI cable, 1/8in to RCA audio jack.
The audio is still not coming through the TV. I tried going into the menu on the TV and change the audio settings under "HDMI" to "analog", and that doesn't work either. I do not know if I should try purchasing a 1/8" headphone port.
Any suggestions???

The problem I ran into trying to what you are wanting relates to using the HDMI connection to the TV for video only...I also use a Toshiba TV like yours....
From what I can tell after trying every connection method for audio on the TV is that once you employ the HDMI socket to carry the video from the MacBook...the TV also expects the audio signal to be there too...it is not (as you know)
I ended up connecting the audio from the MacBook to my receiver instead...
I believe the only way to get both audio and video via the TV would be the (PC In) set aside for that...

How do I use the MacBook Pro's audio line in?

Hi,
I've been trying to connect my Playstation 3's analog audio output to my MacBook Pro but it doesn't seem to work. Everytime after I connect it, there still won't be any sound coming out of the speakers.
How is the analog line in supposed to work?
Thanks!

Hi Ymer,
Have you selected "audio line in" as your sound source in System preferences / Sound?
The other thing you will need to do is get hold of a copy of an excellent little utility produced by the people who make "Audio Hijack", called "Line-In" - available from http://mac.softpedia.com/get/Audio/LineIn.shtml or direct from the maker at http://www.rogueamoeba.com/freebies/
There is no need to use a sound recording app, if you use "Line In", though that is another option.
Cheers
Rod

10.6.8 update Macbook Pro (2006) audio dropouts

Hi, I've got this nightmare problem, since I updated to OS10.6.8, my Macbook Pro late 2006 drops the audio, randomly, rendering the whole caboodle absolutely useless as a studio tool. It still works out of the headphone output, but not with my MOTU 828, or an M-Audio FW interface I tried it with either. Seems to happenw ith Logic, iTunes, whatever.
Has anybody else had this problem, perhaps suggest a solution? One Mac expert said he thought it was a firewire port issue, and nothing could be done without replacing the motherboard.
There was a wierd glitch with saving/storage afer 10.6.8 upgrade, and I used this fix..http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3968
Don't know if that could have affected anything..
Thankyou Mac world people.

Did you follow these steps, EXACTLY?
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
Note: Learn about removing the battery on MacBook and MacBook Pro.
Shut down the computer.
Disconnect the MagSafe power adapter from the computer, if it's connected.
Remove the battery.
Press and hold the power button for 5 seconds.
Release the power button.
Reconnect the battery and MagSafe power adapter.
Press the power button to turn on the computer.

Connecting MACBOOK to home audio system - via 'headphone' jack?

When setting up the MACBOOK to deliver its audio output to an amplifier/receiver, how is that best done?
That is, I assume a y-cable (stereo mini plug-to-(2) RCA plugs) might not be the best way, since it's taking a 'headphone' level signal to what are supposed to be 'line level' inputs.
But are there other better ways of doing this, given that the 'headphone out' is all the MACBOOK has?
Thanks.

Just realized that was a full size Toslink and not the mini one on a MacBook. You could either use an adapter or a purpose-built full-size Toslink to mini optical.
http://www.amazon.com/TOSLINK-TO-OPTICAL-MINI-ADAPTER/dp/B0002MQGRM
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV20001-06-WHT-Digital-Optical-Mini-Toslink/dp/B000 7MVX48
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-Premium-Digital-optical/dp/B0002JFN10

MacBook Pro 13" Audio Output sound quality terrible after Lion upgrade

Hi guys,
I have recently upgraded my 2011 MBP 13 to Lion, and ever since have had terrible audio out sound quality, i.e. it is 'grainy' and full of feedback - very unpleasant to listen to.
Is anyone else in the same boat and does anyone have the solution to my problem?
Thanks,
Sam

Sorry for the late reply, yes mine does does recover but I still think it is the same issue with different levels of severity. This is a guess but possibly my higher spec Retina MacBook Pro can work its way through the issue where your 13" MBP can't or can't in a reasonable amount of time.
I have also thought that it is related to window server and was wondering if someone else would bring it up as semi-confirmation since 2 people would have to came to the same conclusion, yes I am weird you don't have to tell me. I am thinking it is possibly related to the lower priority for background apps; it gets caught thinking every window is in the background, chokes, and does not know what to do which is why the cursor will still move since it never gets "backgrounded". As for the caps lock, it is pretty much hardware based which is why we can have a virtual machine not read the caps lock on someimes if it is turned on when the VM is started.
I wish Apple would have more testers so things like this would not slip through. I see more complaints like this when there are external displays on MacBooks than single display iMacs/Minis. Something that may not be tested enough since it requires more specific circumstances.
Sorry, I don't know how to restart window server without the terminal. I would have loved to test the theory since that would answer the question of what is at fault quickly.

Macbook 2008 no audio from speakers - can't disable digital audio - red light in headphone jack

Looking for help with this problem, that seems like a lot of people had in the past and still have, but I see that a couple of discussions on it here have been archived. Too bad, as the problem continues.
I seem to be having the same problem with my late 2008 white 2.1Ghz Macbook.
I had used earphones a few times with movies and iTunes, with no problems. Now I've just rebooted to find that I have no audio from internal speakers (the boot up chime works though). Earphones work perfectly.
There is a constant red light in the earphone jack. The volume icon in the top menu bar is greyed out. In the Sound preference panel, Built-in Speakers are not available as an option for audio out. The only option is Digital Audio. If I connect earphones, then they are available as the only option.
I have tried all the various methods that people have recommended, to switch off digital audio through the earphone jack: trying to flip the little switch with a toothpick, paper clip, etc., as well as cleaning around inside the jack with a bit of rubbing or cleaning alcohol; also tried inserting and removing the earphones plug several times, while pushing the volume buttons on the keyboard. Nothing works.
I did get something from inserting/removing the earphone plug, as I seemed to be able to adjust volume from the keyboard, but I never got sound out from the speakers; the volume window seemed to indicate increase/decrease volume as I pressed the keys, but after a few seconds the volume window greyed out again with the No Entry symbol.
Trying to flip the digital audio switch in the jack occasionally gets the red light to turn off for a couple seconds, but then it comes back on.
Is there any particular problem with this that can't be solved by the aforementioned methods, that many people have used to solve it in a simple manner? Could my problem be more serious? Is there anything I could do if I opened up the Macbook, e.g., somehow to manually turn off the digital audio switch?
Any help greatly appreciated.

Got it fixed with a small flathead screwdriver with a fairly wide blade. Opened iTunes, started playing songs, had red light in headphone jack, as per usual with this problem.
Put screwdriver in jack, with blade more or less vertical, started moving it around inside of jack in clockwise motion, pressing pretty firmly. Took just a couple of "swirls" around the inside of the jack and then audio finally turned on! Was a bit of a hassle, but finally worked.
Many thanks to all for their suggestions.
P.S. re. advice not to use metal object. This was the only way I was finally able to solve the problem (i.e., using the small screwdriver). I didn't see where using a metal object would be a problem, seeing as the headphone plug itself is metal. Anyway, it worked.

MacBook to TV Audio

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for