Macbook warrenty question

Will placing a protective covering "invisibleshield" on the outside of the macbook void any warrenties? Also, if it was needed to be serviced could it be left on? It is the same material they make to cover ipods. If you havn't heard of it before...it's a protective plastic coating that goes over the outer surface. They also make covers for the outside of the macbook too. It can be removed and new ones put on at any time.....i've used it for my ipod and it works great!

No. It will not void the warranty.

Similar Messages

Warrenty Question -- No complaining please.

Hello Apple moderators and users,
My warrenty question is:
If my screen gets scratched up from the cotton pockets of my jeans to the point that it is functionally impossible to read the screen properly, am I eligible for an exchange for a new iPod Nano? I have read posts and commentary by users who were able to get an exchange for a new Nano from the Apple store.
If this is the case, then I'm sure many users on this forum will be happy to hear that they can legally obtain a free new iPod Nano every other week. No recall needed -- just get a new one every other week from the warrenty.

In the US, the phone number for the Apple store is 1-800-MY-APPLE (1-800-692-7753). You can find the number for the other locations by changing to a different store at the bottom of the US online Apple store.
-Doug

Mid-2013 Macbook Air: question about the battery life

First of all, I'm sorry if these questions have been already asked, I've looked around and I've seen some answers, but none that fit my specific case.
I have had this computer since December (Macbook Air, 13'', Mid-2013), I've been using it for a month now. At the beginning, I used to use it until my battery was low (between 10 and 20%) and then charge it. Then I learnt that it's better to keep it plugged as much as possible (I have read this in other discussions and on the Apple page). The problem is that my battery is no longer a 100% of its capacity according to Cococnut Battery. It started with 99%, then back to 100%, then 98, 97... and now it varies from 97 to 98 (right now it says that my computer's current capacity is 6948 mAH). I don't know if this is normal, or if this is caused by the use I used to give to my macbook air at the beginning or by any other thing. I also have 19 loadcycles already. Besides, I have noticed that sometimes it jumps form 100% to 99% of battery pretty fast when I don't have it plugged, and I'm not sure if that happened before.
This is my first time dealing with a macbook and I don't know how these things are supposed to work, and I'm worried my battery might have any kind of problem and that's why itdoesn't have full capacity anymore, since I've been using it for only a month.
Also, sometimes it takes a little while to shut down. It usually takes 2 seconds, but sometimes it takes longer, maybe 20 seconds (first the screen turn white, then the loading icon appears and then it finally shuts down). Is this normal too for macbook airs?
Thanks for the help!

Those are only averages, for purposes of the battery 97 98 99 and 100 are the 'same thing'........theyre all estimates.
Normal on shut down, sometimes you can see a few seconds, sometimes 10, 15 seconds shut down.....depends on what and HOW much its shutting down before poweroff.   Normal.
ON BATTERY USE:
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace

MacBook A1181 Question and Emergency.

Hello. My Uncle gave me his MacBook A1181 three days ago with a problem. I've read some forums online and my problem is that the MacBook had an overheat problem. What happened was my uncle was using it and all of a sudden it shut off completely, and the bottom was very hot, and could only turn on and work fine when plugged into a charger.So what happened was I looked into the logic board and noticed a large amount of dust trapped in the fan and heat sink. I've cleaned it out. Disassembled the fan, cleaned it, vacuumed the rotors, and am reassembling everything back together. And I thought that also it was a problem with the DC board. As I was CAREFULLY getting the DC board out I had to take off the logic board first. And as I was removing it CAREFULLY, I noticed that 1 of the four tiny metal brackets between the Audiojack and Battery adapter plug to the logic board was missing, and I found it laying against the wall of the bar holding all of the side ports. And my emergency is.. DID I JUST KILL THE COMPUTER!? It's 1 out of the billions that are on the board. None of the little connectors on the Battery Plug Adapter are damaged.. So I want to know if I killed the computer? :c and the DC board seemed fine. Battery could charge. Nothing strange. But I need to know. Do I still have to replace the fan? Or do I need the fan and a whole new logic board? :c help would be VERY much appreciated! If anyone thinks it might be a problem with the DC board anyway, I'd be happy to know the reason why. And the charger I had got fried. So before I do anything I want to know what you guys think.

You need to ask Apple to reset your security questions. To do this, click here and pick a method; if that page doesn't list one for your country or you're unable to call, fill out and submit this form.
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Two MacBook Pro Questions, Help!

Hi all, I'm currently going through two seperate problems with my currents macbook pro. I bought it in summer 2010 and all the software is updated.
In the past 24 hours, I have gotten the "Your mac has restarted because of a problem," 3 times. And it is starting to freak me out because I have seen it could be logic board, GPU, hardware, etc. I reset my PRAM/NVRAM, today as well. I don't have apple care and my warrenty is already expired, plus I am a college student with a budget, and I really don't live close to an apple store for the genius bar, I have been thinking maybe Geek Squad but I heard they are overpriced. I have no idea what to do.
The other issue is an odd one, my wireless connection is acting weird. I use Google Chrome as my browser and some websites load and others do not. For example twitter will load but facebook will not. I just get the "no data received" message. I have reset my modem (main and router) and have also tried using other browsers (Firefox and Safari) and the same problem happens on both browsers. This right now ***** because I have homework I need to submit online and my schools blackbload will not load to submit assignments.
If Anyone has any idea on any of these issues, PLEASE any help is appreciated!
Thanks!

Your model is subject to a replacement program for the logicboard due to a defective GPU. It lasts 3 years from the date of purchase. If this is already expired, Apple may or may not still replace your logicboard. It is ultimately at the discretion of the store manager. If you don't qualify, your other option would be a flat rate repair, for ~$300, which Apple will repair anything wrong with the machine for this fee. See the user tip and support article below:
MacBook Pro 15" Mid 2010 owners: Apple Support Communities
MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010): Intermittent black screen or loss ...
Message was edited by: nbar

Older MacBook Pro Questions

Im trying to sell my MacBook Pro so I have three questions.
1. The battery died so I need to replace it, what is the best one/way to go about it? I have seen some products on eBay but they kinda worry me.
2. What should I do before I sell it, as in clearing everything off the system?
3. How much do you think I could get for it?
MackBook Pro OS 10.5.8
2.4GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
2GB 667MHz DDR2 SDRAM
250GB HDD
Nvidia Geforce 8600M GT
VRAM 256MB

While checking on Craigslist you may be able to find some batteries for it. This may work because you can test them out and have the person let you test them out before you give them money for it. As long as things work, you should be okay. As far as the price, you are going to want to look for an average and what you think you want to get out of it. If you aren't totally sure, put a price that you would like with an idea of what you'll actually take and put it OBO and if someone doesn't want to pay the price you have they'll give you some offers if they want it. From that point it is all a matter of what you actually want to get for it. If you want to take what they are offering for it, then it's up to you and you can sell it at that price. If not then you hold onto it longer so you can get what you want to get for it.

Newbie macbook cloning question (30 macbooks)

I am a PC network admin for over 10 years and the school i work for made the decision to go all Mac... so.... Hi.
We are starting out with about 30 macbooks in a lab environment. Active Directory. All will be using the same network AD name and password.
I can get them set up fine on my network (glad I crossed that hurddle) but now my question is what the latest, easiest cloning/imaging solution is?
I don't necessarily HAVE to have a solution that can do more than one at a time, but in a year we will roll out a 1 to 1 so having the ability to clone several at once is a plus.
I have read about Bombich's NetRestore and CopyCatX but am not really sure how good or current they are.
My other question is are there any "hardware" solutions? May sound like a dumb question, but like a cart device you can plug all the macbooks in and it clones them? I had heard of something similar for ipad carts but it was just syncing all the apps.
Thanks in advance and I apologize in advance for my newness

There are numerous options for creating bootable clones if you prefer not to use Bombich's NetRestore.
Carbon Copy Cloner
SuperDuper!
The Restore option of Disk Utility
CCC is free to schools and teachers. SuperDuper! is free to use only for full clones. If you want to use other features then you must purchase a license for $25 (I think.)
It is easy enough to set up the base system you want on one computer then create a disc image of that base system and burn it to a dual-layer DVD that can be used to boot and install on all the other computers.
You don't actually need a hardware server as you can run OS X Server on any Mac. Once Lion is released the Server software will become available for $30.00 in addition to the $30.00 for Lion. In your case if the computers were purchased on or after June 6th, then you will have 30 days after the release of Lion to get a redemption coupon for a free copy of Lion. The details will be made available on Apple's website once Lion is released.

MacBook firewire question

Not sure where else to post this question:
What kind of Firewire port does the MacBook have? 4 or 6 pin?
I just bought a Canon Elura 100 MiniDV camcorder, and it didn't come with a firewire cable...
thanks =)
Mac Book Mac OS X (10.4.6)

yeap
all macs from notebooks to desktops are equipped with the 6 pins FW port !

New MacBook USB Question

Hi Guys,
I'm building a new portable studio.
I'm used to firewire gear.
I want to get a new MacBook (not Pro)
and use a Tascam US 1641 with a Presonus D8 to have 16 ins.
Since the new MacBook's don't have Firewire, I will need an external USB 2.0 HD for recording.
My question is this.
Can I record 16 tracks in at 24 bit 48 to the USB external Drive?
Tascam plugged into one port, HD plugged into another.
What is the track count for a USB 2.0 7200 RPM drive?
What limitations can I expect?
Thanks so much.
-FTIWL

FromTheIcyWasteland wrote:
Ok,
So after running some tests myself, both of you guys were right.
The USB bus can't handle both the External HD and the Tascam.
Bummer.
However, what about the MacBook internal drive?
If I were to replace it with a 7200RPM could it handle 60 tracks at 24/48?
You will have to find someone with personal experience to answer that one. A Laptops bus system isn't as robust as a desktop and that's a lot of tracks. The other problem is heat, a faster drive runs hotter, the new Macbooks are small and can get pretty warm from just the nvidea graphics processor.
Have you been over to the Alu Macbook forum?
Also, the new MacBooks have the GeForce 9400M in them.
Do you think that Snow Leopard will take advantage of that card and help with > running Logic?
Very doubtful.
Not trying to be negative here but I think you will have a difficult time trying to get what you need (reliably) from one of the new Macbooks.
pancenter-

Detailed Stat Macbook Fan Question

Dear Apple Community,
After quite some time spent online sifting through threads related to macbook fan noise, overheating, and everything related to it i have finally decided to ask directly for some guidance as i have yet to find a clear solution.
My problem, like many, is that the moment i start using my CPU more than just a few % , temperatures soar out of control and i guess as a result so does my fan.
I have double-triple check alternate causes for this problem. Definately not the printer-que issue as some have posted before.
It is 100% as soon as i go out of idle and use CPU problem starts and noise because problematic when sitting in library.
Here is a quick table on what happens when i go from using just excel to starting and using flash animations/journals/magazines and then back to idle again.
CPU USAGE
CPU: T
HEATSINK A/B T
Exhaust
Idle
1-2%
52
49/49
1802
Flash 1min
87-90%
94
74/72
6200
Flash 5min
70-80%
87
71/72
6212
Flash 10min
70%
85
72/70
6196
Idle 5min
1-5%
54
50/50
2134
Idle 10min
1-5%
56
50/50
1797
(Above stats are from iSTAT Pro. (CPU usage verified via Disk Utility activity monitor).
Here are the stats of my Black Macbook 13'..
Model Name:          MacBook
Model Identifier:          MacBook2,1
Processor Name:          Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:          2.16 GHz
Number Of Processors:          1
Total Number Of Cores:          2
L2 Cache:          4 MB
Memory:          2 GB
Bus Speed:          667 MHz
System Version:          Mac OS X 10.6.8 (10K549)
My questions is what i can do to be able to work with normal programs without my mac going crazy? Is it thermal paste problem? Fan seems to work, but maybe i need to open up and either clean with compressed air or replace fan? Other solution?
Thank you for taking time to respond.
Best regards.
Magnus

i have also been looking at this thread:
Flash Player Eating Up CPU, Bogging Down System
However my problem has started within the past 6 months or so..and i defiately have been taxing computer before. Not only with fp usage.

Macbook networking question

Hello - I am not sure if I should post this question in the TimeCapsule or MacBook sections, so I will post here:
I have a MacBook, running MacOS 10.6, with an airport extreme running 802.11 a/b/g/n. I also have a TimeCapsule, which I BELIEVE is configured to run a network with both 802.11 g and 802.11 n. My questions are as follows:
a) How can I tell which network protocol my MacBook is using, and how can I tell the Macbook to connect to the 802.11 n network?
b) I have my TimeCapsule installed in the ground floor of my house. I have a separate structure (about 50ft away) which serves as a home office. What is the best way to get network connectivity in the office? The Time Capsule signal seems very weak in the office. I have tried a Powerline Network Adaptor, but this has been a decidedly mixed experience. Any suggestions?
THanks!

a) *How to tell which protocol your MacBook is using:* With AirPort enabled, press the Option key and click on the AirPort icon in the menubar. It will show you quite a bit of AirPort connection information, including which protocol, which WiFi channel, signal strength, and others. There are also specialized programs that provide additional WiFi information, including other WiFi sources (routers) in the vicinity. That can help you find a WiFi channel that is not heavily used by other devices that might cause intereference and diminish the signal. I'm a licensed user of an app called AirRadar. A trial version is available from www.koingosw.com
Sorry, I don't have a Time Capsule or an AirPort Extreme. My non-Apple wireless router DOES allow me to specify which 802.11 protocol(s) to use, which channel to use, and other configuration options. Perhaps Time Capsule has a similar configuration option.
b) *Signal Strength*: Sorry, I can't help you with specifics.
If your home office IS your only office, perhaps business use justifies cost/trouble involved in putting the main internet service connection and the main backup device in the office. Different brands and models of routers offer different effective ranges and connection speeds. Since my wireless use is generally less than 30 feet (the driveway) from my 2nd-floor router in a brick and wood-frame home, I won't speculate which device(s) might work better at a distance of 50 ft.
Message was edited by: kostby

Macbook processor question

I'm mainly using my Macbook that I will order for schoolwork, chatting ang hitting up websites, and media like watching movies and listening to music.
My question is i'm not paying for this, so to save some money is it worth getting the 2.0ghz over the 1.83 if I will have 2GB of RAM in the laptop ?

For what your looking to do the increase in price does not seem to warrant the higher processor. Don't forget that with the 2.0 you get a dvd burner but other then that the 1.8 makes sense.
Mike
Mini MacBook Mac SE

MacBook Black Question

Hi, I have a black 2008 MacBook black that has a faulty logic board. The machine is still under AppleCare and I have an appointment to take the machine in to my local store to be looked at.
My question is will Apple repair or replace the logic or the entire mac as it is a failed graphics card. If they replace the Mac would I be right it thinking it won't be a black model?
Any idea what Apple would do with hardware that was upgraded after purchase and not the same specs as the newer machines?
Thanks!

Nick,
If you've added RAM or put a bigger hard drive in the computer, you need to remove them & put the originals back or be very, very clear with the folks at the Apple store because they probably won't know to transfer them to a new machine if they replace yours.
Talk with the folks at the Apple store before you bring in the computer for repair and ask them what you need to do with your upgraded hardware in order to still have it once your computer is repaired/replaced.
~Lyssa

Black MacBook Trackpad Question

I've seen many Black MacBook pictures, however I always noticed that the track pad seems almost destroyed from the continuous use. You can see the aging and the gloss forming. So the question is...can it be preventable?

For my white MB I bought a roll of adhesive contact paper from an Art store. (a few dollars for the whole roll!) I cut pieces for the trackpad and button. This works beautifully and gives the trackpad a nice dry-satin texture. No residue when I removed it either. This is a much cheaper alternative to third party products.
Cheers

Black MacBook Preformance Questions

Hey guys,
This is my first mac, it's a late 2007 black macbook running snow leopard. As happens with computers that are a few years old i'm starting to loose HD space, little slowdowns etc.
Can anyone recommend any good utilities from mac to help generally 'clean up' my computer? Also is there a way to see exactly where all the HD space is going?
Sorry for the ignorant questions, but the mac world is still very new to me.
Thanks for your help!

Hi...for general maintenance and cache cleaning....Onyx....
http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/11582/onyx
To see exactly how your HD space is allocated......Omni DiskSweeper......
http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/7402/omnidisksweeper
Also open up 'Disk Utility'....in your Utilities folder....and click 'MacIntosh HD' from the left column and then the 'First Aid' tab....Repair 'Permissions' and 'Verify' disk...
Message was edited by: Dave Stowe

Macbook warrenty question

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