Mackbook pro vs air help!

So basically I have been having a choice between the Macbook air 13inch, with upgraded i7 core prosesser, 8gbs of ram and I think it's 256gbs of flash storage? And the Macbook pro with retina display 13 inch also with 8gbs of ram, and 256gbs of flash storage, but the prosesser of 2.6 duel core intel i5 with turbo boost up to 3.1ghz. I wanted to know the difference between the processing speeds of these two would be and which one I should get. >.< Help please?

That is a fair point, but I'm not factoring external software (i.e., Creative Suite) into my current budget. However, as far as I know, aside from a few minor updates, earlier versions of Creative Suite should work fine under Mavericks. Please let me know if I'm wrong though.
If I eventually need to buy Creative Cloud, I plan to purchase it with a separate "budget." In other words, at this moment, my money will only go toward a new Macbook Pro or Air (and any tech upgrades, if necessary).
Thanks.

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Help! I need a recommedation for a Mac Book Pro or Air for a singer-songwriter who needs to burn CDs and makes 30 minute to hour-long recordings. Thanks!

I am a hypnotherapist and singer-songwriter who purchased Pro Tools and took a brief class, but I'm not an engineer and it is over my head. I am looking at purchasing a Mac Book Pro or Air to dumb down to a Garageband app in order to keep production moving while I learn Pro Tools.
Can anyone recommend which laptop to get? I now have a Dell Studio XPS with Pro Tools on it. Just need to keep my clients happy,and I make recordings that are 30 minutes to an hour long for them, then burn CD's and/or make mp3s that I email to them.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Many thanks!

BTW (speaking as a Dad of 3 daughters in Grad school) if you don't already have and use a DropBox account, or some other similar online "cloud" based backup of your school documents, you should start doing so immediately. By keeping all of your important documents in the Dropbox folder on your computer, you have instant access to them from any other computer (or iPad), should you be w/o your computer while in for repairs (or if, God forbid, it is stolen). It's free for 2 GB of online storage, which is more than enough for a few years worth of Word documents, etc. (If you get other people to sign up via your email "invitation", then Dropbox gives you even more free storage space.) Every time you close a document, it is updated on the Dropbox servers (encrypted), if it is in the Dropbox folder (assuming you give it a few seconds to update before turning off your computer). Do a google search of "Cloud based storage comparisons" to compare the amount of free space each of the competing services give you.

I can't get my Mackbook Pro to print on 11 x 17 paper. Help?

I can't get my Mackbook Pro to print on 11 x 17 paper to a wireless printer. It will print on 8.5 x 11, even when I select 11 x 17 Help?
I am smart, smrt.

I do have the tabloid option, but it won't print to 11 x 17. If I go into page setup in the print menu, the 11 x 17 option is "grayed out" and it can't be selected as a print option. I can go into "manage custom sizes" and put 11 x 17, and it won't work. It doesn't matter what size I select, it prints to 8.5 x 11. Stuck.

Hi. I am not able to update the Adobe Flash Player on my MackBook Pro. The problem I am getting is a blank page for Step3. Can someone help please?

Hi. I am not able to update the Adobe Flash Player on my MackBook Pro. The problem I am getting is a blank page for Step3. Can someone help please?

If you already have an older version of Flash Player, open the Preference pane and select Check Now... under the Update portion under the General tab:
You shouldn't have to install a new version from the website (I'm not even sure if you can) if you've already installed Flash Player.
Clinton

Mackbook pro 15'' a1226, problem in the video chip, PLEASE HELP!

Hello, my name is Carlos Garcia from Chile, I have a 15'' Mackbook pro model a1226, no Series. w8******x91, everything was fine until one day when you turn off, no more picture tube, the machine turns on and even boot the OS, but does not generate images, so check this problem with Apple's solution, however in the distributor of my country told me that the guarantee of the four years ended in January 2012, and that I contact Apple Store Mexico, right now I am very disappointed by the support provided by the Apple people. Please appreciate that I can tell I do, if there is any solution for this problem or I think just buy a new machine, if so do not think I could ever trust Apple again.
Thanks from now.
<Email Edited by Host>

Entonces, no hay nadie que pueda ayudarme por favor?

Difference between mackbook air & mackbook pro

Can anybody tell me the difference, so i could make a decision?

The NEW macbook Pro and Air are EXTREMELY close in form factor
The newest macbook Pro is essentially a larger macbook Air with Retina display and options for speed in increasing prices up to an independent graphics and quad core processor.
both Air and new Pro now have PCIe SSD and permanent RAM.
The Air is the lightweight portable form factor, fast to boot and shut down, but with longer battery life than any of the macbook pro in 13"
Now the new macbook Pro and macbook Air are extremely close in form factor and nature.
both have 802ac wifi
both have permanent RAM, no superdrive
both are slim profiles and SSD
The only real differences now between Air and Pro....are (in the most expensive Pros) faster processors and quadcore processors and top end model autonomous graphics and the Pro has HDMI output.....and of course the retina display
both are now "very good for travel"
Other than features the form factor of the Air and Pro are VERY close now,....so now its merely a matter of features and price more than anything.
You need an external HD regardless of what you get for backups etc. Drop into an Apple store and handle both and make your choice based on features, such as Retina or non-retina, .... both at a distance now look like the same computer.
The Pro weighs more, ....but nowhere near what it used to just a month ago on the older macbook Pros
The NEW macbook Pro is a different creature entirely than the older macbook Pro, .....the new Pro is thicker than the Air, but id frankly call the NEWEST Pro a "macbook Air with Retina display" , or
Maybe a “macbook Air PRO with Retina display”
Instead of Air VS Pro now,.....its really a smooth transition from Air to pro without comparing say, 2 different creatures, now its like contrasting a horse from a race horse.
Either one in 8gig of RAM (preferably)... the 4gig upgrade costs very little, the I7 you will notice only 15% faster on heavy applications over the I5, and NOTHING on most APPS.....I5 has longer battery life.
As you see below, the non-Retina 13" AIR is 82% of the Macbook with Retina display in resolution
there is no magical number of pixels per inch that automatically equates to Retina quality.
http://www.cultofmac.com/168509/why-you-might-be-disappointed-by-the-resolution- of-those-new-retina-display-macs-feature/
A huge internal SSD isnt a game changer for anything, you need an external HD anyway
what you WONT READ on Apple.com etc. is that the larger SSD are MUCH FASTER due to SSD density
"The 512GB Samsung SSD found in our 13-inch model offers roughly a 400MB/s increase in write speeds over the 128GB SanDisk/Marvell SSD"
http://blog.macsales.com/19008-performance-testing-not-all-2013-macbook-air-ssds -are-the-same
Here is an excellent video comparison between the 11” I5 vs. I7 2013 Macbook Air.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDqJ-on03z4
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7113/2013-macbook-air-core-i5-4250u-vs-core-i7-465 0u/2
I5 vs. I7 performance 13” Macbook Air 2013
Boot performance
11.7 I5 ……11.4 I7
Cinebench
1.1 I5….1.41 I7
IMovie Import and Opt.
6.69 I5….5.35 I7
IMovie Export
10.33 I5…8.20 I7
Final Cut Pro X
21.47 I5…17.71 I7
Adobe Lightroom 3 Export
25.8 I5….31.8 I7
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Performance
27.3 I5…22.6 I7
Macbook Pro processor and configuration options:
http://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs-retina/
Macbook Pro ports:
Macbook Air (13") ports:

Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -Macbook Pro, MacBook Air Apple portable slowdown / kernel high CPU solution

Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.

Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.

HT1338 i can not connect my beats headphone with my mackbook pro? any advise plase?

any advise? how can i connect my beats headphone ith my mackbook pro?

I didnt get it sorted, i had to change my accounts to outlook.com and put an auto-fwd from old too new account. It has something to do with the single sign on code as SVuxen mentions above but I couldnt get all my mac devices working on it so found it easier to change to new account....
I went into an Apple shop to discuss with them as my partner was having hte same issue (we were buying anouther ipad) and they couldnt help much either.....so I gave up a did the same with her account and fortunately everything has migrsted across without any problems (including contacts/calaenders etc)

Which is better for iOS Game Development, Pro or Air?

I'm thinking of buying a MacBook Air. But I want to know which of Pro or Air is good for programming iOS apps. Or maybe Games.
-Is the new 2013 MacBook Air 13" good enough to develop 2D or 3D games for iOS devices?
-Or the Pro is better?
I want to create games for iOS. But I still don't which Macbbok to choose. A little help please? Thanks.

All current Mac, including the Air will run Xcode. The question is what else will you be running at the same time.
If money is an issue, buy a refurb'd Mac mini ($550.00), max the ram (16GB $150) and then get the largest LCD you can afford ($300 will go big). Should be USD$1000 or less by the time you get done and you won't have to work on a crowded screen.

TS1702 why i cant use the PAges, Numbers, Keynote, Garageband that i bought on my ipad2 on my new MackBook Pro?

Happy New Year 2013 to you all lucky Mac users ;-)
I have a iPad2 since last year and bought these apps "Pages, Numbers, Keynote, Gargaeband" on it. Now i have a new MackBook Pro 17" quadcore i7 OS 10.7.5 and trying to sync my apps and use them on my Macbook Pro but for some reason i can not...
Would you please help me out how to do it and where to start?
I know that once you bought an app you can sync and use them on all your devices, but how? The price on above apps for iphone and ipad are much cheaper than for macs. Is this the reason i cant use them on my macbook pro?
Thanks for your help.
OMG That's It

Welcome to the Apple Support Communities
You can't use apps purchased on the iPad on the Mac. They use different App Stores and iPad apps aren't compatible with Macs, so you have to purchase them in the Mac App Store

Mackbook Pro + Aperture 3 + 1TB drive + Time Machine + Carbonite....work f

Mackbook Pro + Aperture 3 + 1TB drive + Time Machine + Carbonite....work flow?
I have Carbonite On-Line back up running incremental (wifi to the cloud) backup in the background I just learned that I can nominate folders for it to ignore..
So... to prevent it grinding away needlessly using up resources, I was daydreaming I would import RAW files from my camera into to a "TEMP" folder that I would have Carbonite ignore
I am disciplined at sorting through shots directly after importing them..
Perhaps I can also get Time Machine to ignore that "TEMP" folder too? (Although hard drive storage is less of a worry...
This way I only back up 'keeper shots'?
Am I getting warm? Is this a valid workflow / back up regime?
I hear Aperture 3 has file management functions that are helpful.. But I am not up to speed with what they are...
Carbonite WONT back up attached drives - only the Laptop own drive.. And I want my 'keeper' library shots on two back up systems..
Am I missing a trick? Looking for do's and donts - pitfalls to avoid etc.. I want to set things up the right way from the beginning, I plan to migrate all my RAW operations from iPhoto / Elements set up on a MBAir to a new MBPro running Aperture 3 in about a week.
Suggestions please..
Thanks in advance!

hammer58 wrote:
During the initial setup for TM, there was one screen that required username wd_backup and password admin. Later I changed the username for the TM folder to garyham58 and a personal password. That is the username and password I am looking for.
As I understand it, the original name and password were supplied by WD and stored on the NAS. Any changes would have been stored on the NAS. And resetting it would have to be done via the NAS.
I would think that there is some way to reset TM and start from scratch
I fear you may have already done part of that, inadvertently, since the folder shows no contents.
But it's not a password for the Time Machine application; it's the sharing of the WD disk, which is done by WD. When you back up with Time Machine to a simple external HD, there is no password for the drive. When you back up over a network to a Time Capsule, or a USB drive connected to it, you set up the password, if any, via Airport Utility, and I believe that's stored by the router as well as in the keychain on your Mac.
Do you still have the original 250 GB HD? If so, your best bet may be to get an enclosure for it, from http://www.macsales.com/ or the like. You can put the HD into it and connect it to your Mac via USB or FireWire, and it will become a normal external HD. Then you can start up from it and "clone" the HD to the new one.
Then you might be able to re-establish contact with the WD, and see your backups, unless they got erased during all the problems, or erase it and start over.

Licensing has stopped working - I tried all the published options and none work. Acrobat 9 Pro Mac Air 10.9.5

Licensing has stopped working - I tried all the published options and none work. Acrobat 9 Pro Mac Air 10.9.5
Thank you for your help

Hey,
Considering error "licensing has stopped working", you might need to try out the solutions mentioned in the following KB doc link:
Error "Licensing has stopped working" | Mac OS
Let me know if this helps.
Regards,
Anubha

I have a MackBook Pro I updated to Maverick and now my internet won't work and all my programs freeze and I have to restart my computer.

I have a MackBook Pro I updated to Maverick and now my internet won't open and all my programs freeze and I have to restart my computer. The only program that doesn't freeze is Microsoft Word.

Back up your documents and everything else important to you, not that there is any reason to believe your hard disk may be failing, but the symptoms you describe may presage an impending disk failure, and you should have backups anyway.
To help determine the possible causes of this behaviour read the following. None of what follows is intended to fix anything, but it will provide the additional information required to advance troubleshooting:
Boot OS X Recovery by holding ⌘ and r (two fingers) while you start your Mac. At the Mac OS X Utilities screen, select Disk Utility. Select your startup volume (usually named "Macintosh HD") and click the Repair Disk button. Describe any errors it reports in red.
When it finishes restart your Mac and test again for operation. If it's still not behaving as you expect it should, please post the results of EtreCheck in accordance with the following instructions:
Apple Support Communities contributor etresoft wrote a very useful app to quickly gather certain system information that may help point to a cause of this problem. Go to his website, download and run EtreCheck:
http://www.etresoft.com/etrecheck
Etrecheck will be in your Downloads folder. Open it from there. You may see the following dialog box:
Click Open - etresoft contributes to this forum frequently and can be considered a trustworthy developer.
It will take a moment to run as it collects its data.
Copy and paste its output in a reply.
Do not be concerned about anything that says "Problem" or “failed” or anything else that may appear in red.
EtreCheck was designed to remove any personal information (such as your computer's name and serial numbers) but if you see anything that looks like an email address or any other personal information that should not be divulged to others, please delete or obscure that information when you post the reply.
When you are finished with EtreCheck, quit the program. It occupies very little space, and you can keep it or drag it to the Trash as you wish.
After completing the above please determine if the problems also occur in "Safe Mode":
Safe Mode or "Safe Boot" is a troubleshooting mode that bypasses all third party system extensions and loads only required system components. Read about it: Starting up in Safe Mode
You must disable FileVault before you can start your Mac in Safe Mode.
Starting your Mac in Safe Mode will take longer than usual, graphics will not render smoothly, audio is disabled on some Macs, and some programs (iTunes for example) may not work at all.
Merely starting your Mac in Safe Mode is not intended to resolve the problem, it's to observe its performance without certain additional components.
To end Safe Mode restart your Mac normally. Shutdown will take longer as well.

How can I transfer my iPhone tunes into my MacBook Pro iTunes? Help!!! Gordon

How can I transfer my iPhone tunes into my MacBook Pro iTunes? Help!!! Gordon

You can't sync across accounts, so:
In Contacts select all the contacts (1 account at a time) and choose File>Export>vCard),
then on your wifes Air do the reverse, select File>Import.

I had an iPad2 and use a PC with windows xp to synchronize iTunes. Now i have a Mackbook Pro. How do I synchronize my Ipad to the new macbook without losing all my data?

I had an iPad2 and use a PC with windows xp to synchronize iTunes. Now i have a Mackbook Pro. How do I synchronize my Ipad to the new macbook without losing all my data?

On the MacBook launch iTunes.
From the menu bar click Store / Authorize This Computer.
Now sync your iPhone.
Apple - Support - iPhone - Syncing

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