Mail set-up and other questions.
Hello, everyone.
I am new to this forum as I just purchased my new iphone and am now in the process of having it set-up. Some questions have come up and I would appreciate any help or suggestions any of you can offer me. Here are the questions I have:
1. I have set-up G-Mail on the iphone using POP. First problem is the fact that it downloads only 25 messages and then stops. I have its preferences set for 100 messages. I also would like to use filters so that I can have g-mail download some messages but not others. How can I set-up filters for my g-mail account on the iphone ?
2. After I started itunes I noticed that everytime I went back to the application it was playing a different track suggesting it was playing in the background when I was using another application. How can I exit itunes and turn it off so that it doesn't keep playing and using valuable battery power ?
3. Last but not least I have noticed that my phone doesn't ring. I have set up the ringer to ring, have selected my ringtone and also adjusted the volume. I can hear the phone ringing if I have the headphones on but without them the phone itself doesn't ring (it does vibrate). How can I set-up the phone so that it rings when called ?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Best regards,
JC
1. You can't apply filters to email on the iPhone. The capability doesn't exist in 3.0.
2. The iPod application stays running in the background on the iPhone so you can continue listening to music as you surf, etc. The way to stop it is to either close the iPod before going to something else or pause the playback before heading elsewhere.
3. Try setting one of Apple's default ringtones to see if there's something amiss with your custom ringtone.
Message was edited by: dmiannay
Similar Messages
-
Mail set up and other minor tweeks
I would like to know how to remove the ugly picture that iphoto took of me during initial set-up from sent emails. there doesn't seem to be anything in signatures that makes any difference to it.
Also how can you set columns as the default view in Finder?
Also how to remove the VPN icon from the menu bar (that popped up while messing with things I shouldn't have been and didn't need to and now look...)
Also have installed Boot Camp beta and MS XP but even though MAC is defined as the default start up Windows is the one that jumps in and takes over. How can you stop this?
Forgive me if these questions should be divided up by topic I'm new to this and don't know how these things work. Would appreciate any help you an give.
Thanks
15" Macbook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.8)Hi Toiling,
I would like to know how to remove the ugly picture that iphoto took of me during initial set-up from sent emails. there doesn't seem to be anything in signatures that makes any difference to it.
Are you talking about the picture in the upper right corner of email messages you send? If so, this is the picture chosen in your computer's user account. You can change it here: System Preferences/Accounts. Select your user account and click on the Picture tab to change it. But I don't think this picture is sent with your emails.
Also how can you set columns as the default view in Finder?
Go in Finder/Preferences/General and check the box "Open new windows in column view".
Also how to remove the VPN icon from the menu bar (that popped up while messing with things I shouldn't have been and didn't need to and now look...)
Open Internet Connect (in Applications) and click on VPN and uncheck the box "Show VPN status in menu bar". You can also delete a configuration for VPN by selecting "Edit configurations..." in the Configuration dropdown menu and clicking the - sign after you selected the configuration you don't need.
Also have installed Boot Camp beta and MS XP but even though MAC is defined as the default start up Windows is the one that jumps in and takes over. How can you stop this?
Unfortunatly, I can't help you with this one... I don't know anything about BootCamp. I'm sure someone else will be able to answer this.
Guylaine
Mac mini Intel Core Duo 1.66 GHz 512MB DDR2 SDRAM Mac OS X (10.4.8) G4 Digital Audio Mac OS 9.2.2, iPod nano 1GB, iPod nano 4GB -
Trying to download songs on iTunes and it's asking for "my 1st car I owned" and other questions that I never answered. It won't let me download anything til I answer them. Can you help me?
You need to contact Apple to get the questions reset. Click here, phone them, and ask for the Account Security team, or fill out and submit this form.
(94816) -
New Droid Turbo takes forever to load pictures on social media? ...and other questions!
Hey all, I just got my new Droid Turbo a week ago and I've noticed some shortcomings that I'm not sure how to handle. They're not major, but they irritate me. I'll just list them...
-On social media (Instagram and Facebook specifically), the pages load fine but most/all of the pictures take nearly a minute or more to load, if they load at all. Never had an issue with Samsung or previous Motorola phones doing this.
-I occasionally get a popup error that "Contacts has stopped" even when I'm not accessing it or the program is closed (it usually happens when I'm making a call).
-I have a setting to make my Gmail mail sync automatically, but it doesn't always do it, and the phone is supposed to notify me but only does it sometimes.
-How to make "folders" in photo Gallery?
-Google Play music is synced, but doesn't play AT ALL...just "thinks."
I think that's all I have for now. Sorry it's so much, but I appreciate any help you all have! Thanks!!
*Lauren*Congratulations on your new Droid Turbo. We'd love to help make sure your new phone is working properly. For the photos in Instagram and Facebook, Is it that some photos appear and others do not? How are photos in other applications or different websites? As for the Gmail sync, have you checked the settings under Gmail to ensure the sync options are set to your preference. In regards to the folders for the gallery, folders are usually created on their own and based on where pictures are created. For the Play Music, what happens when you try to play songs?
SheritaH_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport
If my response answered your question please click the �Correct Answer� button under my response. This ensures others can benefit from our conversation. Thanks in advance for your help with this!! -
Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions
Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo. I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc. Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up. Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago. Sound still not improved. Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair. I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ. Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz. Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz. In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz. I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings. I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one. I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this. My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL. I knew from what you described thats what it had to be. I do have a concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward. May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this. I answered your questions below in blue.
Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches.
bmccollum wrote:
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine. Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel). I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago. I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever. I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration. Note: Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value). I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position. The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check *
- Front Speaker Small
- Center Speaker Small
- Subwoofer Yes
- Surround Speaker Small
- S. Back (Preout) None
* Distance Check *
- Front Left 0.1 ft (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right 1.3 ft (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) " it should be "
- Center 14.7 ft (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer 16.3 ft (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left 8.0 ft (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right 8.7 ft (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check *
- Front Left + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center + 2.5 dB
- Front Right + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right + 2.0 dB
- Surround Left + 2.5 dB
- Subwoofer - 2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check *
- Front 60 Hz (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center 120 Hz (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround 150 Hz (seems high... not sure...) again leave it or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode: LFE+Main set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE: 120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left 15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right 15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated. My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now. I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound. The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels. It is not 5 channel surround. Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc. Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff. Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth? The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation. -
MacBook Pro 13" Hard Drive and other questions
Hi there,
I've just purchased a 13" MBP which I absolutely love but have a few questions about upgrading it. I want to swap out the hard drive for a larger capacity but just want to make sure I purchase one that will fit.
I'll number the questions for ease of answering.
1. Will this hard drive be correct? I know it's a 2.5" SATA but I didn't know if the dimensions are ok for the 13" MBP.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-Scorpio-Black-WD3200BJKT-internal/dp/B001FBJJQ4
2. Will the difference between a 7200rpm 16MB cache drive and a 5400rpm 8mb cache drive be noticeable? I can get a 500gb slower speed drive for the same price and while the capacity increase would be useful, I would prefer a faster drive if it's noticeable.
Many thanksThat article I believe to be incorrect! The author never mentions which Scorpio drive....Blue or Black. The Blue does not contain a free fall sensor option as the Black is available with our without free fall sensor. The free fall sensor will interfere with the Sudden Motion Sensor (SMS) built into the Mac. SMS can be disabled but my experience first hand with the Scorpio Black in my MBP 13 was not good even after disabling the SMS and merely using the free fall sensor in the Black. If you want a 7200 RPM drive and you like West Dig get the Black without the free fall sensor. You will be much happier. I run the Black in several Windows Laptops and it streams fast then the 7200.4 which I also have in a windows laptop and the scorpio black performed better and more stable! I just dont think I personal would not use it on the MBP 13...I took mine out for it was problematic!! If you want a 500 GB go with the Fujitsu or the Hitachi...even the the Western Dig Scorpio Blue with does not have a free fall sensor. The author of that article mentioned ShockGuard that is not a Free Fall sensor and only engages durring spin up or down as well as parks when it is off. This does not sense a fall like the SMS or a built in free fall sensor. Many MBP unibody owner have used the Blue and it has been hugely successful!!! My experience which is very extensive with Seagate as of late has not been favorable. I do not like the latest generation of drives they are producing we are seeing extensive failures (higher % compared to other OEMs). Stick with those three.
If you want battery life, the Fujitsu or Hitachi are very good choices Fujitsu being a little better
For speed the WD Blue is best on synthetic tests but it is a little power hungry. I am sticking with the Fujitsu in real world test it seemed to do better than the others...H2Benchw it wasnt as good. PCmark it did very well. The Gaming, Video and other test it seemed to do well on but not as good in the h2Benchw.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/mobile-hdd-notebook,2305.html
Great info!!! -
EXSP24 in LE7 and other questions
I have worked out that the sampler instrument editor in LE7 has been removed which is kinda an odd upgrade from Logic Audio 6 imo. If i have this wrong please let me know.
So how do I go about adding in new instruments from sample cd's etc??
I am used to running Logic Audio 6 on my old Imac in System 9 so the new or apparent lack of Logic Folders etc is quite bizarre for me. So if anyone can also throw me some pointers on:
1: Using Reason adapted for Recycle as a rewired instrument in LE7 (I have a feeling this is not possible)
2: Using Absynth within LE7
3: Will something like Kontakt run in LE7?
4: Rewiring Logic into Live or vice versa.
So many questions
Thanks
PaulYou can't edit EXSP24 instruments but you can import several formats:
Akai, Soudfonts, Giga, SampleCell and DLS.
To create your own patches you need some external apps like this:
http://www.redmatica.com/Site/Pages/KM.php
About other questions and supposing that you don't have a Intel Mac:
1. Yes, you can.
2. Logic uses plugins in Audio Unit format; if you have an older version of Absynth you should upgrade to a newer one.
3. Same as above,
4. Logic can act as Rewire host only so you can rewire Live to Logic but not Logic to Live.
cheers
rob
Power Mac G4/533 PowerBook 12 Mac OS X (10.4.5) -
Pixel Bender custom multiply blend and other questions
I am creating photo editing application on iPad and i am using Pixel Bender to calculate effects. But ive got a problem with multiply blend mode.When i run it in CPU/GPU mode, it runs fine(result looks absolutly 1:1 as from photoshop). But when i switch to Flash Player mode, it dont want to render properly. I dont get any compilation errors. Ive got also some other questions:
1.How does PB performs on iOS ?
2.If my problem is becouse of incapability of FP, is there any other solution to this ? I cant afford AS3.0 computing, becouse it is really slow even on PC.
3. Can be Pixel Bender 3D sollution to this ? If yes, when will it come out to iOS ?
4. How are filters computed in FP ? CPU or GPU ?
here, you can see the difference : http://ponozka.php5.cz/gpuMode.jpg http://ponozka.php5.cz/flashMode.jpg
Thanks
source code :
<languageVersion : 1.0;>
kernel MultiplyLayer
< namespace : "Your Namespace";
vendor : "Richard Molnar";
version : 1;
>
input image4 src;
input image4 layer;
output pixel4 dst;
parameter float4 param <
minValue:float4(0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0);
maxValue:float4(1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0);
defaultValue:float4(1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0);
>;
void
evaluatePixel()
pixel4 pix;
pixel4 pix2;
pix = sampleNearest(src,outCoord());
pix2 = sampleNearest(layer,outCoord());
dst.r = pix.r - pix.r * (1.0-(pix2.r))*param.r*pix2.a*param.a;
dst.g = pix.g- pix.g * (1.0-(pix2.g))*param.g*pix2.a*param.a;
dst.b = pix.b -pix.b * (1.0-(pix2.b))*param.b*pix2.a*param.a;
dst.a = 1.0;Ok, so i already know, that CPU/GPU and flash are giving different results. So lets have a situation, where you need to display transparent image without transparency. On GPU/CPU, you will need only this :
dst.r = src.r;
dst.g = src.g;
dst.b = src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
but for flash, you will need this :
dst.r = (1.0/src.a)*src.r;
dst.g = (1.0/src.a)*src.g;
dst.b = (1.0/src.a)*src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
First kernel on GPU will show the exact same result as second kernel on flash. But the question remains : is it bug ? -
Setting UI60_ICON and other environment variables
Hi, I am developing using forms 6i. I tried setting the UI60_ICON environment variable from
1. The Control Panel -> System -> Advanced -> Environment Variable -> System Variables and
2. The Registry Editor -> Edit ->New -> String Value
But my icons will still not appear in my forms. Can some one help me.
I do not add the .ico extension when I use the icon name. And I also make sure the icon has been place in the path I have stated. The icon appears when I place them in the FORMS60 environment variable.
I need help.Try to set with Registry Editor
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\ORACLE (where you see FORM_PATH and other)
variable
UI_ICON instead UI60_icon
Hope helps -
Windows File compatibility, my iPod, and other questions
After years of gripping about doing Video and Photo editing on my PC, I am considering switching to a Mac. But, given I have a heavy investment in PC hardware, I want to make sure I can leverage everything the best way possible. So...
1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or anything?
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without problems?
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time (for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's without a problem?). What about jpg formatted pictures? Any nuances between PC and Mac formats? (or is jpg really just jpg on either machine...I can open up the same picture on a Mac and a PC and see the exact same picture, without major color changes, etc.).
I realize I need to reformat to FAT, but other than that, are their other problems I should know about? (I would like to use the RAID configuration to make sure I don't lose any data)
That should start for now...
Thanks - Jeff
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem
using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or
anything?
You can use it, and it will need to be reinitialised formatted for the Mac.
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without
problems?
No you can't access ActiveX websites with a Mac
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in
RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage
network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time
(for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play
them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's
without a problem?).
Yes
What about jpg formatted
pictures?
Yes
I realize I need to reformat to FAT,
If the computer will still be running Windows and acting as a server then no you won't need to reformat to FAT.
iFelix -
Is the disk equal to log files and other questions?
In the web page http://www.oracle.com/technology/documentation/berkeley-db/je/GettingStartedGuide/introduction.html#dplfeatures, there is a statement, " The checkpointer is responsible for flushing database data to *disk* that was written to cache as the result of a transaction commit ".
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory.
From my understanding of these documents and other web resources, the check pointer is to write records in Cache to Log files (disk), and then cleaner is to reorganize and then to remove unused log files. For the records in a Cache, they are brought from disk to Cache by querying the index organized in a B-Tree structure, and the In-Compressor is to delete some empty internal nodes of B-Tree.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor.
Thanks for your help!
Best,
JiangfanJiangfan Shi wrote:
I wonder if the disk here means log files under the JE home directory. Yes.
I wonder if the above is right to describe relations among these components, check pointer, cleaner, B-Tree and In-Compressor. Yes. -
Double mails in MobileMe and other account (IMAP)
I am trying to optimize my mail workflow and I could use some help.
What is the situation? In the Mail app I have two IMAP accounts set up: MobileMe and a business account.
I have a mailaccount from my Internet-provider (Online.nl). All mail to that account is forwarded to my MobileMe account (IMAP). This works fine, except that MobileMe shows all mails double.
I also have a business account that is also IMAP. All incoming mails on this account are also shown double.
So the question, simply put, is: why do both my IMAP accounts show all incoming mails double ???
Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Willem
NetherlandsHi
Had the same problem, stumbled around, then finally found the solution.
Switch off POP on your email. Delete the POP email account on your iphone. Try to set up a new email account on your iPhone. You then get a warning that POP is disabled but it then gives you full configuration options for the new email account - including IMAP! Switch to IMAP, complete the other settings and it all works.
ps. To switch off POP on virgin email you need to log in using your web browser, then go to Settings, then Forwarding And POP/IMAP. -
Possible to segment traffic between 2 interfaces? And other questions...
I would like to set my G5 up as a server utilizing a second connection and to keep traffic seperated between this server connection and my regular internet connection (would be wireless). I'm pretty sure this alone is fairly straightforward and can be accomplished by setting up the new interface and moving it down to the bottom of the connection list with wireless at the top. That should keep all non-specific traffic from flowing out the ethernet/server connection - I think.
If the above works the way I stated then I would also want to firewall ONLY the ethernet/server connection (the wireless has it's own hardware firewall). AND - this is the tricky part - I also want to add a fake interface that has a fake IP and bind that to the "real" ethernet/server connection. The reason for that is because I need a static IP to bind the service to. I know if the connection list thing works to flow the traffic that if I had an external router on the server connection, this wouldn't be needed. I'd already have a fake IP to bind to and I wouldn't have to run the firewall on the Mac. But I don't and I'd rather not have to buy one.
So can this be done through the network/sharing preferance panes? If so, are there any "gotchas" I should be aware of? If not, is there any software tool out there that would make setting this up easier/faster? I'm not opposed to doing it all via command line, but I'm a bit rusty with my linux/unix admin knowledge. Plus I'm not 100% certain how to set all that up command line wise without screwing up OS X!
Thanks.I'm not sure I fully understand what you are attempting to accomplish. Lets see if I have the general idea.
You have a single G5, that you want to use as both your desktop machine and also to provided specific services, such as web, email, etc.
You have some type of hardware firewall/security appliance.
You have some type of wireless access point.
You don't seem to have any type of router or switch in your configuration.
You want all of your server based traffic to be sent and received on it's own Ethernet port. You want your personal Internet traffic to be sent and received on your wireless connection.
So my questions are:
Where is the server traffic going to, coming from? Who is accessing the server, is it users on the Internet, or just computers on your own LAN (which you didn't mention).
If your server is to allow data from or send to the Internet, then you need to have a way to route the traffic there. Do you have more then one method to access the Internet, or will all traffic, both personal and server being going though the same Internet access pipe?
If it is all going through the same pipe, and you only have the single computer, I don't understand why you wish to segment the traffic.
If on the other hand you have multiple computers on your LAN. then segmenting traffic may make sense. This would allow access to your server and keep your LAN well secure.
Anyway, to get to specifics, you'll need to use the terminal app to bind specific services to specific IP's and ports on your Mac. You will also need to manually configure the firewall to be able to select specific connection ports and bindings. However, while I think it can be done, I'm not sure it makes a great deal of sense.
I would be more inclined to suggest a router or switch that can provide VLAN support, or a router that provides true DMZ support, would be a good way to go.
Anyway, a little more info would be helpful.
Oh and if I have this totally worng in what I think your doing.. My mistake.
Tom N. -
IPod Touch 4th Gen. iOS 5.1.1 - Sleep Mode and Other Questions
Hello,
I have an iPod Touch 4th generation with iOS 5.1.1
1) RE: Sleep Mode - I found this on another thread and it's regarding iOS 4.3.1.
Is the same still true for iOS 5.1.1?
If so, what is recommended for sleep mode - Airplane mode or Wi-Fi off - or is either one ok?
Wi-Fi is always ON with the 4th generation model running 4.3.1 when it is sleeping unless you either turn off the Wi-Fi or turn Airplane mode ON.
2) I only use my iPod Touch on my home Wi-Fi and do not use any cloud based syncing or iTunes Wi-Fi Sync. I do all my syncing manually from my MacBook Pro via USB to the iPod Touch. The way I do things is purchase what I need from my MacBook Pro via iTunes and then manually sync it to the iPod Touch. But there may be times, in the future, where I would want to purchase directly from the iPod Touch.
I recently updated my AppleID with my new email address via my MacBook Pro. But, I noticed that on my iPod Touch under "Settings" "Store" that it still shows my old AppleID. I have all Automatic Downloads set to OFF. How do I update the iPod Touch to reflect my new AppleID?
3) When I'm using Safari and I navigate to several websites, how do I easily get back to my home page (which is set to Yahoo!)?
Probably a dumb question but I can't seem to figure it out. I've set Yahoo! to my homepage but I would think there should be or is (and can't find it) a button/icon like on my MacBook Pro Safari to take me directly back to the homepage.
Thanks in advance for the help!- Unless you use bluetooth, airplane mode and wifi off are the same as regards to battery drain. I like use airplane mode sinc that is directly under Settings.
- Go to Settngs>Store and sign out of existing account and sign in with the updated one
- I have no idea for the Safari question -
Can't Sync IMAP Sent Mail on E72 and other issues!
Has anybody any idea why Nokia felt it a good idea to release a phone with a mail client, that supports IMAP, but DOESN'T sync your sent mail? It is such a ridiculous omition that I am lost for words. I actually recommended the E71 to our IT department a few years ago but the mail client was so poor, we ended up getting 15 phones and 15 Profimail licences. The IT department have asked me to recommend the next phone as the E71 was a big hit and I asked them to get me this E72 to test. It is with great reluctance that I am going to try the iphone instead and recommend that as I believe the mail client on it is very good and the E72's is totally hopeless unless you go through the Nokia Messaging server, which obviously a corporate isn't going too. Before I knee jerk though, has anyone else had this issue and found a way around it?
Also, the predictive text is shocking now, the web browser is so buggy and closes without warning due to memory issues all the time.
Oh, the optical control pad is dreadful and totally useless and the select key also doesn't work in off-line mode, so the E72 is useless on a plane.
Nice to see that Nokia took the very good E71, played with it, broke it, made it far worse and buggy, stuck a new case on then released it as the E72. I remember the days that a Nokia phone worked from the minute you bought it, but now with firmware updates Nokia feel they can release half baked phones by the dozen, monthly. Pathetic.
Oh, and this is the latest firmware, too!
And one other thing, OVI Suite, PC Suite and the umpteen other applications that all do useful things....can Nokia not just release one main PC support app that works and has ALL the features under one roof? I have to installed them all on my PC as well as loads of other sync and office apps on the phone (like OVI Files) just to do the obvious things that you use a modern smartphone for.
Nokia, there is a very obvious reason why you are losing market share at the moment, and it isn't because people trust Google or like DRM and fruit pictures on their phones. Get a grip will you?
If anyone can help primarily with the Sent Mail sync issue in Nokia Email (without suggesting I route all my mail through Nokia's unreliable servers and divulge all my passwords), I would be very Grateful Indeed.I had a number of problems setting up Google Apps with my phone. Mail, Calendar and Tasks were not syncing.
Mail
Ok here is the solution to your sent mails problem. I have spent far too long setting up google apps to sync properly with my new E72 (latest software installed). It really is a superb phone but if Nokia is not going to fully support integration with Google Apps with a simple app then Android and Blackberry will simply take over for Apps users. It really isn't up to Google to solve this its up to Nokia. Are you going to move from Google Apps or change your phone????
I have gmail and business google apps accounts and both are now syncing properly with what seems to be pretty good Nokia email software on the phone. This is allowing me to receive, send, view attachments, view sent mail etc. Here are the steps I took from the beginning.
1. Enable IMAP for the google accounts. Couldn't get anything to work otherwise.
2. Follow this instruction https://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?answer=78887
3. Your inbox should now be working however you now need to map the folders you want to see on your mobile. While at your inbox go to >settings>mailbox settings>what to sync>folder subscriptions.
4. Click on Gmail and highlight the folders you want to see
5. Go back to your inbox and go to the dragdown list of folders and highlight 'More Folders'. Under 'Gmail' you will find your sent items along with attachments etc. Problem solved. Its not a pretty solution but at this stage like me you just want something that works.
Calendar
This was a nightmare and I am now running a third party app called Googasync which is working fine. In 10 days time I will need to buy this so if someone knows how to setup calendar syncing properly without it please let me know.
Tasks
Googasync will not sync Tasks and I don't know if there is any app out there that will. If someone can help please let me know. Surely this should be pretty simple!?!?!
By the way I mailed Nokia support last Thursday on the above but have not received a reply.
In summary its a great phone and I've moved from a Blackerry Bold to it but I shouldn't be spending days finding workarounds!!
Maybe you are looking for
-
I cant use my imessage and my apple account is asking to add my number but i cant save it without giving it my security code on the back of my credit card but i dont have my credit card at the moment so im wondering if apple has a way of looking at m
-
Is it possible to connect a servlet on WLS 6.1 to a server WLE 4.5?
Hi all, Is it possible to connect a servlet java client on WLS 6.1 to a server CORBA on WLE 4.5? I have many problem, this connection doesn't! The configuration is ok! But when the client java call Tobj_Bootstrap bootstrap = BootstrapF
-
ITunes-LAME settings ideal for voice.
Using iTunes-LAME Encoder v2.0.9 (34) & LAME v3.97 I am having trouble with some past suggested encoding options for voice or audiobooks. Of the settings below, only -b 48 produced an encoding. I expected adding -m m to the end of that would get me a
-
Does anybody out there ever had a simlar issue ?
-
Question about Windows Services
I've been trying to cut corners on an XP machine. Since it doesn't need network connectivity, I've disabled networking related services. However, I was wondering if System-level (Start type 0x1) services are safe to disable as well (located under SYS