Main power supply

Main Power Supply Failure - My Imac was about 18 months old when the main power supply "Blew up" to quote the repair technician - it even disturbed other items on the board. The machine was protected by a surge board and nobody else in my village suffered problems with their machines (Macs or PCs). Have I just been unlucky or is this a problem that occurs with some machines?

I'd say unlucky. Was there an outage?

Similar Messages

  • Qosmio notebook question about mains power supply

    HELLO GUYS
    I just wanted to know if a buy a Qosmio from the America or other countries in europe will they play on UK mains power supply. I saw one on ebay that said it had an auto sensing power supply which will work anywhere. But i wasn't sure if i should believe this.
    Thanks in advance

    hi Navdeep,
    Most modern AC adapters work on a voltage range of 100-240 volts so they can be used virtually world wide. This obviously saves the cost of producing specific adapters for different countries or regions.
    Just check the specifications for the Qosmio in the country where you plan to purchase it.
    regards,

  • My apple tv stopped working even if is connected to power supply...where is a problem?

    My apple tv suddenly stopped working even if is connected to main power supply.

    Take the device to Apple for evaluation and find out.

  • Powering down display with external power supply

    I am using a 23" display with an old PowerMac G4 from 1998 with an upgraded video card and external power supply.
    Is there any way to power off the monitor without powering down the computer? Ideally I'd like this to happen automatically based on my system prefs, but apparently the external power supply precludes this.
    As a "workaround", I've created a screen saver that displays a black image. Does this actually save any energy and/or extend the life of my display?
    Thanks,
    - Michael

    Hi Michael,
    Welcome to the discussions.
    You can install an on-off switch on the power lead to the external power supply (actually, it's safer to have a qualified electrician do this, as you are dealing with a mains power supply). I have this system for my ADC 15" Display, and it works fine.
    A black screen saver will not extend the life of your monitor. Screen savers were meant to mitigate the "burn in" effect that happens with CRT displays (and which doesn't happen with LCD displays). If the display is still on, the backlights will still be functioning and they are the finite life component of the LCD display that you need to look after. Also, because the LCD's themselves use so little energy, there will not be much energy saving.
    It's more appropriate to "sleep" the display. You can do this (via Energy saver settings in System Preferences) without having to "sleep" the entire computer. This will turn off the backlights and significantly extend the life of the display.
    (I'm presuming you are using OS X - you haven't supplied any details regarding your system. :))
    Cheers!
    Karl

  • Power Supply of Inspire 5500

    Hi, I've recently moved to a new house and i don't know how i have lost the power supply of my Inspire 5500.
    I've search over inet for a new power supply with no results.
    Do creative still distribute this part? If not, what can i do? The power supply is not standar, the connector is like the one in the keyboards and there is two different transformers embbebed in the same case, so the dealer of the electronic shop where i usually buy said my that that is impossible to find.
    I don't want to lost my system for that reason, i've thought to build my own adapter, but i don't have any info about the pins in the connector, voltages, etc.
    Could anyone help me?
    Thanks.

    Jajaja, I've done something similar, I build my own ps/2 to ps/2 wire with a utp 8 wires wire.
    For the power supply i took another option, directly to the pc power supply . It's sounds crazy but it works great.
    It's supposed that you ned 2 v AC (5 Amp and 400mA or something similar, :P), but i've read on the net that most of the equipments that ask for AC voltage have inside a "rectifier" (don't know how to translate from spanish, :P) that take the AC signal into DC. I've also read that there's no problem using 2V DC because if the signal in the input of the "rectifier" is the DC it only lets the signal pass trough. I've check by myself and it works great, .
    I've now it connected to a separated power supply from my pc, only for safety (I don't want to take risk for using this kind of equipment in my main power supply).
    I hope that if there's another person with the same problem than us read this, :P.
    Message Edited by scarnia on 10-21-2008 06:57 PM

  • 3750E power supply

    Hi,
    Does the C3750E-48TD support only one power supply?
    Is there no option a redundant AC power supply?

    3750E/X support one main power supply and one (optional) redundant power supply.

  • Satellite L100 power supply keeps failing

    Hi all,
    I have an L100. A few weeks ago, the main power supply (the transformer brick) failed, so I replaced it (with a genuine Toshiba part).
    Now the same thing has happened, 2 weeks later.
    What could be causing this?
    Thanks
    Richard

    Hi
    You mean the AC adaptor?
    Its not easy to say maybe its a simple bad luck.
    I bought my first notebook 9 years ago. After 6 month if usage the AC adaptor was faulty and I had to replace it
    But since 8 years its working fine
    PS: If the AC adaptor is only 2 weeks old then the warranty should be valid
    Contact the dealer and ask for a replacement.
    Cheers

  • About power supply of xserve raid?

    hi, i am having a problem with regards to the power supply of xsan, as a redundancy, is it possible to have a new one to replaced the old power supply?how can i get a new one?
    best regards,
    laila
    ebc engineering toc

    Jajaja, I've done something similar, I build my own ps/2 to ps/2 wire with a utp 8 wires wire.
    For the power supply i took another option, directly to the pc power supply . It's sounds crazy but it works great.
    It's supposed that you ned 2 v AC (5 Amp and 400mA or something similar, :P), but i've read on the net that most of the equipments that ask for AC voltage have inside a "rectifier" (don't know how to translate from spanish, :P) that take the AC signal into DC. I've also read that there's no problem using 2V DC because if the signal in the input of the "rectifier" is the DC it only lets the signal pass trough. I've check by myself and it works great, .
    I've now it connected to a separated power supply from my pc, only for safety (I don't want to take risk for using this kind of equipment in my main power supply).
    I hope that if there's another person with the same problem than us read this, :P.
    Message Edited by scarnia on 10-21-2008 06:57 PM

  • Am I asking too much of my power supply?

    I do have a lot crammed into this Mac Pro - but isn't that half the point of resisting an iMac?
    I've had an issue with getting a Harmony remote to be recognized by its remote software, and eventually used my office MBP to solve the problem. The phone service tech said he could see the remote, but the connection was too weak to go through.
    A while ago, I also tried using a powered USB hub (a new newer tech model), and got a weird and horrifying reaction where the mac couldn't summon enough juice to boot - just a dim glimmer on the power lamp and a sigh, then nothing. Disconnect the hub, reboot, no problem.
    So I'm wondering if I need to do some internal triage, reluctantly - and seeking advie.
    Here's my confession:
    Mac Pro 5,1 (Quad Core 3.2 GHz Xeon)
    - 24 GB RAM (3 slots used)
    - 200 GB OWC Mercury Extreme Pro RE SSD (Boot - Lower Optical bay)
    - 3 TB Hitachi
    - 3 TB Hitachi
    - 2 TB Hitachi
    - 2 TB Seagate (all main bay drives in striped SoftRaid array)
    - PCI slot 1 - radeon HD 5870 (factory)
    - PCI slot 2 - raid controller
    - Display 1: Dell 24"
    - Display 2: Dell 19"
    - permanent USBs: Apple keyboard, Wacom tablet (Intuos 3)
    - ad hoc USBs: iPhone, Epson 4990 scanner, Epson R1900 printer, stupid harmony remote
    - firewire/thunderbolt: none (must try harder)
    I'd love it if there was a way to make sure I can power all this through the main power supply, instead of adding on external RAID boxes etc.
    Thoughts? Eyes rolling in horror?

    JamesMac wrote:
    ...I've had an issue with getting a Harmony remote to be recognized by its remote software, and eventually used my office MBP to solve the problem. The phone service tech said he could see the remote, but the connection was too weak to go through...
    - permanent USBs: Apple keyboard, Wacom tablet (Intuos 3)
    - ad hoc USBs: iPhone, Epson 4990 scanner, Epson R1900 printer, stupid harmony remote...
    What happens if you temporarily plug the stupid harmony remote into the USB socket the Wacom tablet is in?
    I've used the Harmony software (both the simple version for the simple remotes and the more complex for the higher end remotes) without difficulty but in all cases the remotes were plugged into a dedicated USB socket. For the amount of time the Harmony would have to plugged into the Mac rather than changing channels on the TV, it would probably make sense to temporarily give it its own socket. And to make the swap easier, consider using a USB extension cable so the socket end is always easy to reach. Finally, unless you're using that USB hub with all the other stuff hanging off it on the MBP too, I bet the different results are due to giving the Harmony it's very own USB socket on the MBP.

  • Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

    I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
    computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
    didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
    seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
    video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
    only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
    it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
    or just funning with the latest games.
    What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
    usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
    over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
    And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
    choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
    Well...Do we have your attention!?
    If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
    your PSU is trying to tell you something.
    To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
    supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
    their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
    and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
    only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
    that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
    One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
    foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
    It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
    PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
    become noisier as time goes by.
    As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
    then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
    If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
    APM (Advanced Power Management)
    APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
    to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
    are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
    function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
    All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
    are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
    modes.
    ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
    It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
    is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
    concerned about this feature.
    Line-Conditioning Circuitry
    A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
    the most unreliable of home sockets.
    EMI Filter
    This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
    as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
    PFCC
    Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
    delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
    Connectors
    There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
    1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
    2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
    3) Molex peripheral power connector
    4) Floppy power connector
    5) Serial ATA power connector
    On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
    Know What You Need
    When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
    install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
    products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
    really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
    recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
    as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
    worth looking into.
    If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
    Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
    calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
    Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
    150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
    to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
    Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
    can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
    an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
    each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
    the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Modular Power Supplys:
    The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
    Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
    the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
    your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
    Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
    You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

    Quote
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
    Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
    I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

  • Choosing the Right Power Supply

    First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
    If you want to know more, read on...
    Choosing The Right Power Supply
    If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
    (As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
    The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
    Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
    Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
    For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
    I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
    But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
    So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
    K7N2G-ILSR
    Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
    AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
    2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
    MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
    ATI Radeon 9600
    120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
    30GB Quantum IDE
    TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
    BTC DVD-ROM Drive
    Artec CD-R/W
    Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
    I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc.  Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
    Not yet.
    I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
    Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
    Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
    However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
    I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
    Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
    In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
    The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
    Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
    I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
    William Hopkins
    Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
    B.A., B.S., with Honors
    The University of California, San Diego
    [email protected]
    P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
    P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

    Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
    First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
    Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
    Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
    Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
    So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
    Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
    So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
    You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
    http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
    i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

  • Power Supply??? Anyone have this problem?

    Hello everyone!
    I have a few different things I am going to post but at the end they all go together so if you are bored read on.
    I own an '07 Mac Pro 3GHz 8-Core and one day I started it up and it didn't come one. It had power but no video. I restarted it maybe 6 or so times for it to finally come on.
    2 months later I start it up(yes I used it between this time) and it gets to the desktop and shuts off. I then try to start it and nada. So the next morning I try again and it chimes, gets to the gray apple screen and shuts off and has not started since.
    I took it to an Apple repair shop(not Apple store but certified) and they are scratching their heads because this is usually a sure logic Board issue or Processor.
    I myself had taken the time to fool with the diagnostic buttons and yes the Trickle Amber lights comes on but when I let go of he diagnostic button on the CPU1 & CPU2 Overtemp lights flashed.
    So with no way to know what this means I just took a mental note about what lights did what and when.
    PART 2
    I had been searching the webtubes anywhere and everywhere for Apple Service Manuals but to no end. They seemingly don't exist.
    Well not so fast. Not only did I find the Mac Pro Service Manual for my '07 I found the '08 and others all for free.
    So with the info I thought for sure I could figure out the problems with my computer but the repair shop still had it. Turns out the repair shop was so used to the Logic/Processor thing they hadn't actually really diagnosed the LED's properly as I assisted them in doing once I read the manual.
    As I read the LED meanings it became quite clear to me what the problem is but yet I couldn't understand how.
    To me the Amber Trickle LED meant that the power supply was ok but this isn't the case. There is an LED I think number 6 or 7 that when the front button is pressed turns green to show the Power Supply is up to par.
    Just from keeping notes in my head I remember studying the LEDs and never did a green light show ever.
    Armed with this I went to the shop today where the tech downloaded the Service Manual while I was there and we went over it together at which point I said to him that there was no Green Light.
    So while he boringly read through the LED explanations I stared at his certifications and his cool little collection of Sponge Bob items which I love by the way. After a boring repeat of yada yada yada we make the anticipated trip over the the hog on the counter.
    Just like I thought... no green light.
    Now I can't believe all this hoopla over that. Something so simple was overlooked for a week.
    I look at it like this. People tell me now, oh yeah it makes sense that it would be that now that it is saying that from the diagnosis LEDs but not one person even suggested that prior.
    And I went and purchased a new 2.26GHz 8-core because I couldn't wait any longer for it to be fixed and thinking it was gonna be $700-$2000.
    Any thoughts???

    It is very simple trust me.
    I guess when the plug is in it still gets power(trickle power) enough to do little things and/or diagnose but the main power to boot up and run can still not work.
    My guess is that it is made this way so they can still diagnose problems even when a power supply bites the dust so you know it is bad as well.
    About the Overtemp lights here is the deal.
    If you look at an '07 Mac Pro(can't speak for newer) behind the riser cards there is a row of LED's and words to explain why they are on, blink or whatever they do.
    Things like TRICKLE POWER, CPU1 & CPU2 FAIL, CPU1 & CPU2 OVERTEMP, and others.
    Just like the SMC button there are two other buttons on the Logic Board near these LEDs'
    If you press them they diagnose the computers issues and make the lights come on depending on the issue.
    BUT...
    There are some of the LEDs that come on to show you power without having to press the diagnosis button. For example the LED #6 or #7(not sure) come on when the power is on, and in this case they don't, showing the Power Supply is not putting out the power. Even if it does and the power isn't sufficient this light will not turn on.
    So...
    When you hit the power button only the Fan and Drives spin due to the Trickle Power(from what I have read) but the Logic Board is not getting power from the Power Supply to start up as shown by the GREEN LED not lighting up to indicate the Power Supply is working.
    That is a pretty good explanation as good as it can be.
    I can post a photo tomorrow when I get my new computer up and running to show you the Board and you will be like Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh that is simple.
    As far as the fix. yes I would have just got a Power Supply but it was not know at the time. I basically figured it out myself.
    I have no regrets about buying the new machine. I have clients that need their stuff done and I love to do it, plus now this will become my Maya machine until it is needed for backup or something.
    NOTE: Who wouldn't still be excited to get the latest and greatest.

  • Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard power outages, Time Machine.

    Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard momentary power outages. Time Machine won't backup.
    Ok here's my setup
    Mac Book Pro 13" APRIL 2011 latest firmware. 8GB RAM. Surge Protected mains connection..
    M-AUDIO FIREWIRE SOUNDCARD AUDIOPHILE most recent drivers and powered by the MacBooks Firewire Out using a NEET Pro Lead,
    The M-Audio has 2 x Firewire Ports and I take one  to a 2TB 7800rpm Iomega iMedia Drive which daisy chains to a 1TB FireWire Seagate HardDrive and yes both are Pre Powered and formatted for Time Machines exclusive use.
    The M-Audio Firewire module can be pre powered but isn't for this reason, the FireWire Out from the Mac IS pre powered, and I'm using a good quality NEET lead that powers the Audiophile ok over the last few months. I have been warned by the manual if I add a power supply to a pre powered firewire chain I could damage equipment, I'm now running the the screen as low as possible and the backlit keys off to minimise power drain, I also use an Acer 24" Monitor with a NEET DV mini port to HDMI adaptor and it's been working great but this must be more power drain on the power supply, One of the USB ports goes to an Native Instruments Maschine Sampler Module, the other goes to a Pre Powered 4 Port USB Hub and that has been fine, it has 1 Axiom 25 USB Midi Keyboard, 2 Pre Powered Hard Discs 1 Portable USB Drive. Now the problems started with Time Machine it can't backup and I get Hard Disk Unsafe Disconnects and Failed Time Machine Backups and Now my Soundcard does the same in that it momentarily disconnects and reconnects in a second, in Settings under ENERGY SETTINGS I've set hard drives to Never Shut Down, and the Screen also, it's been more frequent, then a fuse blows in the Power Supply without tripping up my Surge Protector Socket pfft! just great, well it is only a 3AMP Fuse in the Plug Socket but it saved my MacBook!, ok checks Mains, yes it's old, and I've started using the Central Heating alot now and when it turns on it could be causing a power surge, same with the FridgeFreezer. Things i've tried, on the Seagate pre powered FireWire Hardisc I have switched the Firewire lead to its second FW port, I got no errors with Time Machine this time, not 100% it's done yet, Soundcard resets in Logic 9 ****, I do have 2 lower quality Firewire Leads that go from the Soundcard to the 2 harddrives will need upgrading ASAP, thats next, I recon its time to upgrade the Soundcard as well for a Focusrite or similar as all my M-Audio Soundcards would literaly loose there minds on PCs and Macs, flakey drivers would just drop out of the Audiophole Firewire Card, more than I care to mention, so if that happens it could explain why the Time Machine drive drops out also, hmmm, and there was me thinking if I used a Mac it would all be ok. wrong. Would apreciate any qualified input, thanks.

    Ok some updates I see, 6 in total including a firmware and security upgrades, also two Native Instruments Updates, Reaktor and Kontakt. I will be testing, this. Before the Updates I managed to peak the CPU load in Logic 9 and was only using 14 tracks, will need to bounce the Synth Plugs and drum tracks and run all the source samples from the Local internal drive a Hitachi 5400rpm drive hmmm :/ will experiment, anyway my Iomega FW drive froze up the Iomega Mac Companion is the correct name for it 2TB 7800rpm but it met it's match or was is the processor? Still sussing it all out. Firewire leads upgrade in effect. testing.. bleep. .

  • W520 power supply rating vs. performanc​e question

    I have had a W520 with the i2820 processor option and the quadro 1000 video for over 3 weeks now. I bought several spare 170 watt power bricks for it, but in one location I kept the 135 watt brick from my W510.
    When I moved from the w500 to the w510, when I used a 90 watt w500 brick, the w510 would boot with a BIOS level message that said that the power supply was not adequate and that the machine would be stepped down to a slower speed. The reduction in performance was dramatic and noticable. (The w510 had the 45 watt consumption i920 chip and the more power hungry graphics)
    When I use or boot the w520 with the 135 watt supply, there is no message. My benchmarks do not change from those registered when on the 170 watt power supply, starting with the Win 7 system benchmarks for processor and video. Further, the 135 watt brick is cooler to the touch than the 170 watt one under sustained usage (3 hours plus).
    The question: given that the w520 in my configuration seems to draw less power than the hot and hungry w510, is the 135 watt supply going to work "as well as" the 170 watt one? As a briefcase lugger, any way to shed weight is valued.
    Other considerations: I have no WWAN card installed, and have the CD/DVD removed and substituted with an SSD. The main drive is also SSD, bringing down somewhat the power requirements.
    David Gleason. Every T from the T20 to the T61p, W500, W510. Current system: W520 4270-CTO i2820 8GBx4 (corsair), FHD(1920x1080), NVIDIA Quadro 1000M and 2 Samsung 830 512gb SATA III SSD.

    I remember another post, that I can't seem to find now, which refers to a software utility that displays wattage being consumed by the system.  This would be quite helpful.
    Couldn't that be used to study what is being used, and how much of a power adapter is needed to operate the system?
    I am trying to come up with a solution for vehicle usage, and I am afraid, it will have to be a 12V to 120v power inverter with a brick plugged into it.
    Another factor will be the amount of power consumed when recharging the internal 9cell battery and the external 9cell slice. Doing this while operating the system with WiFi / WWAN active will increase the demand.
    = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
    W520 4276-2QU i7-2720QM quad core, 4GBx1, FHD(1920x1080), NVIDIA Quadro 2000M, 500GB-7200, 6205WiFi, 720pCamera, Bluetooth, vPro, 57++9cell, 27++9cellSlice, Win7Pro64
    IBM R50 WinXP for backup.

  • HP Z400 Workstation Power Supply not Supported

    Good Day All,
    I would like to seek help on the issue that i am currently facing.
    Currently, I am using an HP Z400 Workstation and decided to switch to a bigger casing. I Bought a Full tower and casing and just realized that i am unable to move the power supply (425 Watts) as well due to the cables are too short to reach the CPU main Powers.
    So I bought a separate Power Supply (Cooler Master M2 Silent Pro 850 Watts).The cables are perfectly enough to reach the CPU main power source. After putting everything the pc won’t turn on……
    I thought my newly power supply was defective and got a replacement at the same day. I tried the new Power supply and simply does not want to turn on… this is getting frustrating as I am unable to figure out what is really causing the issue.
    I also tried to just plugging the cables at the Main power and removed all the additional devices just to test but still no luck….
    I started checking forums… there is only one post regarding about unable to change any other third party Power Supply for this HP Z400 Workstation. I guess it apply to all HP Branded as well as Dell.
    Guys I need your help as I don’t want to make a mistake again on considering to build another machine just because this one was not working… Maybe there is one there that manages to bypass or have a resolution on how I can successfully upgrade my Power supply using the same HP Motherboard.
    Here is my Current Specs..
    Processor
    Intel® Xeon® Quad-Core Processor W3565 (3.20 GHz, 8 MB cache, 1066 MHz memory)
    Chipset  Intel® X58 Express
    Here is the link for the full details of the specs
    http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/workstations/product-detail.html?oid=3718668
     Here is the power supply I want to replace http://h20464.www2.hp.com/results.htm?SID=3718668&MEID=368CA2BE-30F2-40AE-8929-DBF4AF2ADC21
    Will wait for your kind reply,
    Thanks

    The reason it won't turn on is because pins 21 and 23 are not in the standard ATX PSU configuration. Your motherboard works with an HP configured ground on pin 21 and +12 VDC instead of the ATX  (ATX12V v2.01)standard unused pin and +5VDC respectively. 
    Z400 PSU connector
    Standard ATX PSU connector
    I have not seen a non HP PSU available that would work without modification.  
    Not all HP's are built with propietary PSU connections most newer, non-business models use the standard ATX PSU configuration.  
    ****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
    2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

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