Making 5.1 DCP with Wraptor

What is the procedure for making a 5.1 DCP with the AME Wraptor plugin?
On the Wraptor Audio panel I can choose Stereo or 5.1.
Do I supply a QT file with 6 tracks?
And if so what is the order?
Thanks,
CGray

Update:
We have just released the AME 8.1 update. With this update, the 5.1 channel order has been changed as follow. This change was done in order to adhere to ITU-R BR.138.
AME 8.1 and future:
Ch1: L
Ch2: R
Ch3: Center
Ch4: LFE
Ch5 Ls
Ch6 Rs
AME 8.0.1 and older:
Ch1: L
Ch2: R
Ch3: Ls
Ch4: Rs
Ch5 Center
Ch6 LFE

Similar Messages

When will Adobe media encoder 8.0 with wraptor DCP support be availabile

when will Adobe media encoder 8.0 with wraptor DCP support be availabile

Was that a video showing the 2014 updates?
Do you have the CC 2014 updates installed?
Have you checked with other user in that forum to see if there is more information there? Adobe Media Encoder (AME)

HT5622 I was making new Apple ID with my other Email on iTunes, but I canceled the process on payment page. After a while i went to make a new ID with same Email but it says the Email is already in use! what should i do?

I was making new Apple ID with my other Email on iTunes, but I canceled the process on payment page. After a while I went to make a new ID with same Email but it says the Email is already in use! what should i do?

You will need to try changing the email address on the first account and see if you can then re-use it on a new account - you can try changing the email address via http://appleid.apple.com or by logging into it via the Store > View Account menu option on a computer's iTunes (if you don't have a spare email account then you can create one via http://gmail.com or http://hotmail.com)

ITunes is updated and works fine and I am able to log onto my account. When I go to purchase a song, I get the error message "Your Apple ID has been disabled". I've tried different methods: changing passwords, making a new account with another email addre

iTunes is updated and works fine and I am able to log onto my account. When I go to purchase a song, I get the error message "Your Apple ID has been disabled". I've tried different methods: changing passwords, making a new account with another email address, and emailing itunes tech support. I am curious as to how many others have been experiencing the same issue. When I googled the error, it seemed like it was happening extremely often with many people.
We all love their products, but they always come with a lot of issues and horrible customer support.
My apple Id is [email protected]

My Iphone 4 is telling me the same thing and I believe I figured out what the problem is. I had some fraudulent charges on my itunes account, so I call my bank and disputed the charges. Right after I did that, I started getting the message "Your apple ID has been disabled." I just realized today that the charges are not fraudulent, they are "in app purchases." One of my daughters downloaded the game Top Girl which is FREE, but in the game Top Girl you use money in the game to purchase things. It just so happens that the money you use to purchase things is real money MY Money!!!. My daughter thought she was using play money in the game and had no idea she was using real money. She spent $106.00 buying stuff. Now I have to call the bank and tell them to release the hold and pay Itunes. I'm hoping this solves the problem. Here is the link to learn how to disable "in app purchase" on your iphone or ipad.
http://www.ikidapps.com/2010/12/parents-avoid-accidental-app-purchases-how-to-tu rn-off-in-app-purchasing.html

Hello, is there a way for making a photo transparent with iPhoto are another software?

Hello, is there a way for making a photo transparent with iPhoto are another software?

Not with iPhoto, but different apps have different capabilities.
There are a couple of considerations: How is this transparent image to be used? In a Deskop Publishing environment something like Pages' Instant Alpha might be useful. Or if you're trying to overlay one image on another on a photograph then some editor that supports layers would be required.
Further, Jpegs as a format doesn't support transparency so you'll need to work ina file format that does.
But if you can explain what you're hoping to do we might be able to point you in a more useful direction.
In order of price here are some suggestions for editors:
Seashore (free)
The Gimp (free)
Graphic Coverter ($45 approx)
Acorn ($50 approx)
Pixelmator ($50 approx)
Photoshop Elements ($75 approx)
There are many, many other options. Search on MacUpdate or the App Store.
You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. This is the only way that edits made in another application will be displayed in iPhoto.

Making a clipping group with a compound path

So, as of today I'm new to scripting for Illustrator, I'm using the ExtendScript Toolkit. However I'm not new to scripting my own solutions and I do have some experience with JavaScript already.
What I'm trying to do is this: For all selected Items->Duplicate selected item and make a simple clipping group with it
What I end up with visually doesn't change the picture, but gives me a lot of clipped colored areas which I then can edit in the isolated mode, allowing me far faster and better shading. Doing that by hand takes hours on some pictures, it'd take a second with a script.
The script itself already perfectly works for normal PathItems. As obvious in the title, as soon as I have to apply the same to CompundPathItems things stop working. My issue is somewhat similar to this old thread [Problem with compound path clipping], but I couldn't find a solution there because I get different behavior.
When I run the very same script that perfectly works with the normal PathItems with CompoundPathItems I get this: Error 9046: The top item in the group must be a path item to create a mask
Well that's a problem. In the GUI there is absolutely no difference between making a clipping mask with a simple path and a compound path. The reference guide has frankly not helped me with this issue at all, the only thing I learned from that is that the CompoundPathItem object doesn't have a clipping attribute, but those included PathItems do.
Here's what I have so far:
if ( selected[i].typename == "PathItem" ) {
var newGroup = doc.groupItems.add();
copy = selected[i].duplicate(newGroup,ElementPlacement.PLACEATEND);
selected[i].moveToBeginning(newGroup);
newGroup.clipped = true;
As I said, this part perfectly does what it's supposed to do for normal Paths.
For CompoundPaths I use this workaround.
if ( selected[i].typename == "CompoundPathItem" ) {
var newGroup = doc.groupItems.add();
copy = selected[i].duplicate(newGroup,ElementPlacement.PLACEATEND);
selected[i].moveToBeginning(newGroup);
compoundItems = selected[i].pathItems;
compoundIndex = compoundItems.length;
for ( f = 0; f < compoundIndex; f++ ) {compoundItems[f].clipping=true;}
var lineList = new Array(10);
for ( l = 0; l < lineList.length; l++ ) {lineList[l] = new Array( i * 10 + 50, ((i - 5) ^ 2) * 5 +50);}
newPath = app.activeDocument.pathItems.add();
newPath.setEntirePath(lineList);
newPath.moveToBeginning(newGroup);
newGroup.clipped = true;
newPath.remove();
Mind you, this workaround does work in so far that it bypasses that annoying and wrong error, and the Compound Clipping Path also works, with the only problem being that the Compound Clipping Path created like this is still displayed in its original colors in the Layers section, and is still selectable. When I lock the Compound Clipping Path I can work with it but still...
So the question is, what am I missing here? Surely there must be a proper way to do this.

app.executeMenuCommand()? That one eluded me so far, might be just the right thing. I'll definitely take a look, now just to find a ref on that, as unfortunately the official ref documents I have don't mention that command. Any place with a list of possible commands?
Ah, also of course I'm not only doing it for the isolation mode. If you care to hear the background, here is it:
As I said it's for shading the pictures I'm working on. I've iterated and tried through a bunch of techniques. For example gradient meshes on my first few real works. Now those meshes don't do well with complex shapes, which previously I alleviated by using a simple square or rectangle gradient mesh and using the original colored shape as a clipping mask. That did work, but it was a huge lot of work.
After a bunch of attempts at that I went over to using simple gradients as a background for the shape and then I'm doing the shading freehand with the blob brush tool, using a graphic style and filters to make it look right. That's better, but properly making all the clipping masks takes me much longer than anything else.
Now the problem is that the shading is not supposed to go over the lines, which is impossible to do properly without either messing up the order, or using clipping masks, hence the script. Because you know, if you use a blob brush with a strong Gaussian blur close to the lines you'll end up with stuff on both sides. If you don't start close to the line the shading won't look right if the darkest part of the shade needs to be close to the line. And that's where clipping masks do magic.
And finally here's an example how I work with the script and the result:
After I have traced a sketch, adjusted the line widths and everything to look neat I turn the paths to outline strokes and then make them into a live paint group (which would mess up the line widths, unless you turn the paths into outline strokes first).
With that live paint group it takes me just a few minutes to flat color my piece. Then I expand the live paint group, in case of doubt spend some more minutes to make compound paths from all areas I need to shade in one piece, then I select all the areas and use my script to turn them into neat clipping masks. Then I can click any area, enter the isolation mode and go up one level so I'm in the appropriate group, where I can shade freely without the problem of going over the lines.
At the end that allows me to apply a complex and in-depth shading, without wasting any time to get there.
PS: Well, I just found out that Draw Inside is pretty darn close to what I want to do, and oddly enough it produces the same visual discrepancy with compound paths that my script produces. I'll be taking a closer look at that, though my script does a little more than just the clipping mask stuff, so maybe I'll go for a hybrid solution. Whatever makes for a better workflow.

Is anyone else making svg cut files with Illustrator?

I am hoping to learn more about using Illustrator to make svg cut files. I have a cutting machine (Silhouette SD) and have been making cut files with Illustrator to use with it. I hope to, at some point, sell my files so they have to be perfect. I have run into some problems however. My paths are being read as outlines and giving me an unwanted double cut. I went on line to see if anyone else has been having this problem as well and to my surprise I found that many people are using other software packages (MTC, SCAL and Inkscape) instead. So here are my questions...
1. Is Illustrator the best software for making SVG cut files and why either way?
2. Is there a place where I can learn more about making SVG cut files with Illustrator?
Thank you in advance for any input on this topic.

Also experiencing hang on quit. For me, it follows a bug where the main viewer pane quits working (which happens occasionally when I have the gall to try to play something before it's done rendering.) Main viewer pane won't update--just shows a video frozen video frame, won't even preview items in the event browser pane. Everything else appears to be working until I play, and when the playhead gets to the unrendered segment, FCP hangs--I assume it's the same hang that happens if I try to quit instead of playing, though that's a pure guess.
iMac 2.93GHz Core i7, 8GB RAM, OSX 10.6.8

You are making me very frustrated with your contorted way of communicating.

You are making me very frustrated with your contorted way of communicating
I tried the suggested procedures. Took out cartridges, replaced them in proper order. Shut off machine. Unplugged machine for more than 10 minutes.
After plugging in machine & turning on, the same error message appeared. It is constant and the machine will not perform in any way including for scanning.
The suggested procedure did not eliminate the error. Your message suggested I go through the "contact us" screen but I've done that twice already.
Not willing to play that dumb game again.

Hi Sjpop,
To have a better understanding of your issue, please let everyone know what operating system and equipment you are using. That way, community will be able to assist you with suggestions appropriate for your product.
Thanks!

23.976 with Wraptor DCP

I have a project in Premiere Pro CC 2014 with a frame rate of 23.976. I recorded the footage with the Canon 5D Mk3 and this framerate came out of the camera with the 24fps setting.
Now I will have a screening at a local cinema, which requests a DCP for its digital cinema projector. As I recently upgraded to the 2014 version of PP, the Wraptor DCP export setting comes very handy. The problem is, the only framerate that DCP offers, is 24fps. Is that a problem when exporting? Will I have timing/sync problems?
Hopefully someone can answer that question, thanks in advance!

Your DCP will work BUT there is huge caveat. If you send the rapture plugin a source file that is not already at 24.00 fps it will interpolate frames to get you 24.00. In other words, it doesn't change the length at all, it simply messes with your lovingly crafted video to spit something out at 24,00. A better bet is for you to do the conversion from 23.976 to 24.00 yourself. A simple workflow on Mac is to take a ProRes master of your video, open that in Cinema Tools, conform it to 24.00. This will make your file playback at 24.00. It's a fraction of a percent slower and will lengthen the TRT by a fraction, but if you make sure your audio files are baked into the master they will stay in sync. Then, run your file through Wraptor and it won't mess with your frames. BTW, neither Adobe or Wraptor explain this anywhere, it took some work by very careful folks who tested it to figure out how it works. I find in infuriating that they refuse to publish proper documentation for a feature they constantly mention in their marketing.

Photoshop: Making a text box with color or border.

How do you fill a text box in Photoshop?
Answer: You CAN’T.
Solution: You CAN do anything you want in Photoshop -we know it’s GREAT - but the steps are not always so easy. See below for solutions to making it seem that the text box is filled with color, bordered, semi-tansparent etc.
In Photoshop, a text box is mostly about the text inside and less about the box that surrounds it. In other words, the box is always transparent and all effects apply to the font shapes typed inside by the user. Photoshop (CS4) can produce incredible, professional, amazing text images. No Doubt About It!
A Photoshop text box can display one of two types of bounding boxes:
Its OBJECT bounding box is there for moving the whole text layer, rotating it, duplicating it and distorting. Clicking once on the text layer pallet and selecting the move tool (v) will produce this bounding box. The direct selection tool (a) won’t recognize it. Note: If you try to resize the box as an object, it also distorts/stretches the text inside. This can make cool effects but usually you want the text to stay the way the font was designed. See: Layers>Type>Warp Text.
The TEXT bounding box is there for highlighting, re-typing and selecting the margins of the actual text/paragraph etc. Selecting the text tool and clicking over existing text will produce this bounding box.
Some features are accessible in either mode.
The Photoshop text tool has two types of cursors:
The NEW text box cursor looks like a text insertion cursor (often seen in word processing) WITH a dotted box around it.
To produce the new text box cursor just select the text tool and move over to a new work area.
The EDIT text cursor looks very much like the ordinary cursor people are familiar with (no dotted box).
To produce the edit text tool, hover the text tool over EXISTING text and the cursor changes to the simple insertion shape (without the dotted box). A click now will put you into text editing mode, not new text box mode. This drove me batty for a while because I was used to clicking anywhere inside an existing text box and the blinking cursor would pop in automatically - usually at the end of the last letter. This doesn’t happen in Photoshop; if that NEW text box tool is active, it will try to place a new box anywhere you click sometimes overlapping another.
When in this mode (edit existing text) you can carefully hover the arrow to the edges of the text box and resize the bounding box without altering the shape of the text itself. This is how you make the text box larger or smaller to fit/accommodate your needs. You can also highlight text, insert between words/letters. Highlighted text is available for changing its font, color, size, cutting/pasting etc.
To get OUT of the EDIT text mode, click the check box on the tool column above or type enter (not return) or type cmd-return (MAC), ctrl-return (WIN). If you want to cancel any changes to an existing text box click the ex-circle on the tool column or press the esc key (top left of keyboard-escape key)
OK, THE MAIN POINT:
To make an effect that looks like a text box that is filled, bordered, semi-transparent etc., you will have to create an object shape (box) and place it just behind (under) the text box. Linking the two allows you to move them around easily. The drawback is that, when you need a larger box, you’ll have to alter the size of both boxes and possibly re-center them to each other (I know it’s sort of dumb to have so many steps just to get a shaded text box or bordered one.)
Begin by selecting the Rectangle shape tool and draw a shape on the screen of any size. In the layers pallet a layer is created with two items (layer thumbnail and vector mask) Double click the one on the left the layer thumbnail). Change its color to a light one such as baby blue or yellow.
Now select the text tool and click once over that shape. A text box is created exactly the same size of the rectangle (any shape will work too).
Type some text into that box and change the font type, size and color to something you might use regularly. Check to see that the text color is black (can be changed later). The text automatically wraps around when you reach the edge of this box and fits well (inside margins can be altered by pixel later).
Now link the two boxes to one another. Shift-click each layer in the layers pallet to select both and choose the link button at the bottom of the window for layers or go to Layers>Link Layers. Now when you move one it will move the other too!
Using the paragraph tools you can center text, indent first line, and add space between paragraphs. Except the first paragraph seems too close to the top of the colored rectangle; doesn’t it? Photoshop won’t add extra leading (horizontal space) between the text box and the top of the first paragraph.
There are two ways to fix this:
1.     Select the text tool and click inside the existing text then hover the pointer just above the little box/tab in the top center of that rectangle and bring it down just a bit.
2.     Or you could unlink the two layers (to unlink just click link again while one of the two layers is selected in pallet) and move the colored rectangle up just a bit.
In the first instance it was not necessary to unlink the boxes. This is the advantage because altering the colored rectangle without unlinking will distort your text as will altering the text box if you are not in object text mode (see intro.)
Ok, some advantages:
Now that you have this set up you can use the background box (colored rectangle) to make other effects. Select it as a separate layer but you won’t have to unlink it. To make the box semi-transparent change either the layer OPACITY or the layer FILL (found in the layer pallet).
To create a border box:
1.     Select the colored rectangle box and under Layers>Styles>Blending Options (or just double click in an open area of the layer pallet for that shape.)
2.     Select Stroke, change: Fill Type color, Color black, Size 4, Position inside, Blend Mode normal, Opacity 100%. Click OK/Apply
3.     Back in the layer pallet, change the Fill to 0% and you will just have a border with attached text box. You may have to alter the inside text box again depending on the thickness of that border especially if you made the Position to be inside to keep the sharpness of the rectangle.
4.     Yes this will work with other shapes and even custom shapes. Remember to draw the shape first and immediately place a new text box over it BEFORE any other alteration is done. This ensures that Photoshop creates a text box exactly the same size/dimension of your chosen shape. It even makes margins fit irregular shapes like triangles.
5.     Try it!

Toxic Cumquat wrote:
How do you fill a text box in Photoshop?
Answer: You CAN’T.
Solution: You CAN do anything you want in Photoshop -we know it’s GREAT - but the steps are not always so easy. See below for solutions to making it seem that the text box is filled with color, bordered, semi-tansparent etc.
In Photoshop, a text box is mostly about the text inside and less about the box that surrounds it. In other words, the box is always transparent and all effects apply to the font shapes typed inside by the user. Photoshop (CS4) can produce incredible, professional, amazing text images. No Doubt About It!
A Photoshop text box can display one of two types of bounding boxes:
Its OBJECT bounding box is there for moving the whole text layer, rotating it, duplicating it and distorting. Clicking once on the text layer pallet and selecting the move tool (v) will produce this bounding box. The direct selection tool (a) won’t recognize it. Note: If you try to resize the box as an object, it also distorts/stretches the text inside. This can make cool effects but usually you want the text to stay the way the font was designed. See: Layers>Type>Warp Text.
The TEXT bounding box is there for highlighting, re-typing and selecting the margins of the actual text/paragraph etc. Selecting the text tool and clicking over existing text will produce this bounding box.
Some features are accessible in either mode.
The Photoshop text tool has two types of cursors:
The NEW text box cursor looks like a text insertion cursor (often seen in word processing) WITH a dotted box around it.
To produce the new text box cursor just select the text tool and move over to a new work area.
The EDIT text cursor looks very much like the ordinary cursor people are familiar with (no dotted box).
To produce the edit text tool, hover the text tool over EXISTING text and the cursor changes to the simple insertion shape (without the dotted box). A click now will put you into text editing mode, not new text box mode. This drove me batty for a while because I was used to clicking anywhere inside an existing text box and the blinking cursor would pop in automatically - usually at the end of the last letter. This doesn’t happen in Photoshop; if that NEW text box tool is active, it will try to place a new box anywhere you click sometimes overlapping another.
When in this mode (edit existing text) you can carefully hover the arrow to the edges of the text box and resize the bounding box without altering the shape of the text itself. This is how you make the text box larger or smaller to fit/accommodate your needs. You can also highlight text, insert between words/letters. Highlighted text is available for changing its font, color, size, cutting/pasting etc.
To get OUT of the EDIT text mode, click the check box on the tool column above or type enter (not return) or type cmd-return (MAC), ctrl-return (WIN). If you want to cancel any changes to an existing text box click the ex-circle on the tool column or press the esc key (top left of keyboard-escape key)
OK, THE MAIN POINT:
To make an effect that looks like a text box that is filled, bordered, semi-transparent etc., you will have to create an object shape (box) and place it just behind (under) the text box. Linking the two allows you to move them around easily. The drawback is that, when you need a larger box, you’ll have to alter the size of both boxes and possibly re-center them to each other (I know it’s sort of dumb to have so many steps just to get a shaded text box or bordered one.)
Begin by selecting the Rectangle shape tool and draw a shape on the screen of any size. In the layers pallet a layer is created with two items (layer thumbnail and vector mask) Double click the one on the left the layer thumbnail). Change its color to a light one such as baby blue or yellow.
Now select the text tool and click once over that shape. A text box is created exactly the same size of the rectangle (any shape will work too).
Type some text into that box and change the font type, size and color to something you might use regularly. Check to see that the text color is black (can be changed later). The text automatically wraps around when you reach the edge of this box and fits well (inside margins can be altered by pixel later).
Now link the two boxes to one another. Shift-click each layer in the layers pallet to select both and choose the link button at the bottom of the window for layers or go to Layers>Link Layers. Now when you move one it will move the other too!
Using the paragraph tools you can center text, indent first line, and add space between paragraphs. Except the first paragraph seems too close to the top of the colored rectangle; doesn’t it? Photoshop won’t add extra leading (horizontal space) between the text box and the top of the first paragraph.
There are two ways to fix this:
1.     Select the text tool and click inside the existing text then hover the pointer just above the little box/tab in the top center of that rectangle and bring it down just a bit.
2.     Or you could unlink the two layers (to unlink just click link again while one of the two layers is selected in pallet) and move the colored rectangle up just a bit.
In the first instance it was not necessary to unlink the boxes. This is the advantage because altering the colored rectangle without unlinking will distort your text as will altering the text box if you are not in object text mode (see intro.)
Ok, some advantages:
Now that you have this set up you can use the background box (colored rectangle) to make other effects. Select it as a separate layer but you won’t have to unlink it. To make the box semi-transparent change either the layer OPACITY or the layer FILL (found in the layer pallet).
To create a border box:
1.     Select the colored rectangle box and under Layers>Styles>Blending Options (or just double click in an open area of the layer pallet for that shape.)
2.     Select Stroke, change: Fill Type color, Color black, Size 4, Position inside, Blend Mode normal, Opacity 100%. Click OK/Apply
3.     Back in the layer pallet, change the Fill to 0% and you will just have a border with attached text box. You may have to alter the inside text box again depending on the thickness of that border especially if you made the Position to be inside to keep the sharpness of the rectangle.
4.     Yes this will work with other shapes and even custom shapes. Remember to draw the shape first and immediately place a new text box over it BEFORE any other alteration is done. This ensures that Photoshop creates a text box exactly the same size/dimension of your chosen shape. It even makes margins fit irregular shapes like triangles.
5.     Try it! Or try using Indesign!
There. I fixed that for you.

Making Karaoke Sound Tracks with Nero 6 and X

I want to thank Creative Lab for making a fine sound blaster X-FI Music Xtreme card. I could not believe my ears between my old Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZX Karaoke Track that I made from Nero 6 wave editor Karaoke Filter. I compared with my new remix of karaoke track of X-FI 24 bit Crystalizer on and played on the bar karaoke system and I ask the host to play my 2 disc and actually compare at the bar I go and they told me the X-FI music Karaoke that I made was very noticeable difference in sound quality.
Thank Creative Lab for making a fine product so I can enjoy enhancing the music that I love and share with the people that hang out at the bar with me hehehe.

Hey,
I installed skype in my new iphone 5s but I cant find it in my home page. I tried to open thorough app store but couldnt also couldnt uninstall it. But I can find it in my setting page. What do I do?

Making a VoIP call with the Cisco 837 ADSL router

I would greatly appreciate if could please provide some technical assistance to my questions below:
Is it possible to make a VoIP call between two 837 ADSL Cisco routers over a 1Mbps ADSL broadband connection?
If so, can I configure this VoIP connection using either a PPPoE or ATM WAN link?
Is it possible to make a VoIP call using a Cisco 837 Router while simultaneously surfing the Internet? In other words do I need two public IP addresses i.e. one for accessing the internet and one for making the VoIP call or is one static IP address obtained from my ISP sufficent.
It is possible to configure QoS parameters (e.g. RSVP, Voice precedence, Voice codec selection) on this 837 router using PPoE or can it only be done using an ATM WAN interface?
Does the Cisco 837 router support both the H.323 and SIP communication protocols? Do I need to purchase a certain IOS operating system version for VoIP calling?
Does the VoIP dial peers need to be configured with both a POTS and VoIP phone numbers or is only one number required?
Do I need to obtain a special VoIP number from my VoIP service provider? or can I use existing POTS numbers or made up numbers within the dial peers as this situation involves making a private VoIP call between two branch offices using 837 ADSL routers and not via a VoIP service provider.
Finally, can I use POTS ordinary telephones with the Cisco 837 for making VoIP calls or do I strictly need to purchase VoIP phones?
My apologies for the number of questions asked here but I currently need to know the technical ability of the Cisco ADSL 837 as I am thinking of employing these routers in my company organisation.
I await your feedback in due course.
Thanks,
Martin Healy

Hi,
I give you a sample config of my router.
class-map voice
match access-group 101
policy-map mypolicy
class voice
priority 128
class class-default
fair-queue 16
ip subnet-zero
gateway
interface Ethernet0
ip address 20.20.20.20 255.255.255.0
no ip directed-broadcast (default)
ip route-cache policy
ip policy route-map data
interface ATM0
ip address 10.10.10.20 255.255.255.0
no ip directed-broadcast (default)
no atm ilmi-keepalive (default)
pvc 1/40
service-policy output mypolicy
protocol ip 10.10.10.36 broadcast
vbr-nrt 640 600 4
! 640 is the maximum upstream rate of ADSL
encapsulation aal5snap
bundle-enable
h323-gateway voip interface
h323-gateway voip id gk-twister ipaddr 172.17.1.1 1719
h323-gateway voip h323-id gw-820
h323-gateway voip tech-prefix 1#
router eigrp 100
network 10.0.0.0
network 20.0.0.0
ip classless (default)
no ip http server
access-list 101 permit ip any any precedence critical
route-map data permit 10
set ip precedence routine
line con 0
exec-timeout 0 0
transport input none
stopbits 1
line vty 0 4
login
voice-port 1
local-alerting
timeouts call-disconnect 0
voice-port 2
local-alerting
timeouts call-disconnect 0
voice-port 3
local-alerting
timeouts call-disconnect 0
voice-port 4
local-alerting
timeouts call-disconnect 0
dial-peer voice 10 voip
destination-pattern ........
ip precedence 5
session target ras
dial-peer voice 1 pots
destination-pattern 5258111
port 1
dial-peer voice 2 pots
destination-pattern 5258222
port 2
dial-peer voice 3 pots
destination-pattern 5258333
port 3
dial-peer voice 4 pots
destination-pattern 5258444
port 4
end

Making Photo Slideshows along with movies

Does FCE HD or FCP HD make good quality slideshows. iMovie seems to lose a lot of quality wihen making slideshows with photos. I am looking to make a DVD with movies as well as photos, and I am wondering what would app would give me the best quality.
Macbook Pro

I use Photo-to-Movie under http://www.lqgraphics.com/software/phototomovie.php
It makes better DV quality slideshows than iPhoto or iDVD (less shimmer and pixelation) and allows for very precise motion control of the "Ken Burns" effect. Then I import the finished "movie" to FCE and then export the movie to Livetype or Soundtrack to add titles or my own music.

0 For 3 In Making My First iMovie With iDVD (help!!)

Hello all,
I have just made my first attempt at making a DVD (via iMovie & iDVD). Firstly, this took a while, because the content (our honeymoon) was made w/ a mini-DVD camcorder (we've since exchanged for a Mini-DV camcorder), and I had to upload the movie to my Mac (miniDVD-->miniDV tap-->imported to Mac via iMovie {as one long clip which I segmented by hand later). Not sure if this was the best way of converting, but everything appeared to be going alright. Until....
Yesterday, I made my first attempts at taking my iMovie Project to iDVD to burn a DVD. Now everything looked ok. I played the movie in iMovie (everything good), and I set up everything in iDVD (and everything looked good). Unfortunately, the point where I have issues begin when I start to BURN a DVD.
Info on movie: it's about 59min; some music from my iTunes library; 4.0 Themes.
Attempt #1
After about 2.5hrs, I checked status, and iDVD was in a spinning ball state. This was during the "encoding audio" portion of process. Activity Monitor said iDVD & encoding server were "not responding". iDVD eventually QUIT.
Attempt #2
I then "deleted encoded assets" (found this suggestion from this forum), and made another attempt. This time I checked iDVD more frequently and watched specifically around the point when "encoding audio" began. This time iDVD made it through this process. And after an overall time of ~3hrs, my DVD popped out!!
I plopped it in my separate dvd player (and later MBP DVD Player app), and I got this frustrating result: audio for the menus (4.0 Fish theme), but no audio for ANY movie content! ugh!
Attempt #3
Once again after finding suggestions in this forum, I went about Saving As Disk Image via iDVD, and then went to bed. I woke up this morning to see that overnight, iDVD had "unexpectedly quit".
I'm at my witt's end here. I've read many forum threads w/ similar symptoms, but haven't found anything conclusive. There are a few things I may try:
o Import miniDVD directly to Mac via camcorder (no tape transfer)
o Not use any iTunes music in project
o Try a more "basic" them (not use movie clips)
In case you were wondering Disk Space shouldn't be an issue. The iMovie Project took up about ~20GB, and I still have about 70GB left out of the "spec-ed" 120GB (this is on a MacBook Pro w/ 2GB of RAM).
As you may guess, I'm a total iMovie/iDVD novice. I tried all the obvious things for making this movie and it didn't work. It seems I need a "work-around" here to make this movie. I thought this was "supposed" to be easy!
Please help!!
MacBook Pro (2.33GHz) Mac OS X (10.4.8) 120GB Hard Drive

Hey Sue Thanks for the quick response!!
Yeah, with regards to the DVD camera, that was a wedding gift out of my control (I had a nice miniDV on our registry, too!). oh well!
Is it really encoding audio from a DVD even though I saved the DVD movie onto a miniDV tape & then handled it that way on my Mac?
As for all my music media, they were all from my iTunes library and were AAC files. I had one of them which was "protected" (i.e. an itunes purchase). I just now removed it.
As for the DVD Media, I'm using TDK DVD-R. (should mention I actually have made another movie. However this was with video from someone's camcorder (i.e. really grainy). I just wanted to give it a try. I made this w/ a TDK DVD-R. However this is my first "real" movie.
Ok so, I'm giving it a 4th try. This time I'll:
o Remove the Protected iTunes song from iMovie & Save Project
o Trash the preference files from iDVD
o Run "Repair Disk Permission" via Disk Utility
o Save iMovie Project
o Share iMovie Project to iDVD & then give it another try!
Wish me luck! (& Thanks for the help!)

Making a split line with pen tool

I am making a map and have stumbled upon a new desire. Is it possible to make multiple paths from one anchor point using the pen tool? The most simple example I can give would be a "Y" - that is with the first point at the bottom, the second in the middle, then adding two separate lines from that middle anchor point in hopes that all three line segments would be a part of the same vector line.
The photo shows what I am working on. The grumbled grey area below the current railroad track is an old rail yard. The anchor point to the right of "Hill St." is where I would like to split/make multiple new lines from. Ideally, there would be a line that traces the northern edge of the rail yard (as is shown), in addition to one that traces the the southern edge that is technically the same vector line as both the northern line and the individual one to the east.
Any help or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.
Doug

Take a look at this:
This was all done by Add New Stroke in the Appearance palette.
To get a clean Y you must make a compound of the 2 paths. You can see this clearly on the upper "road".
This works well for roads in general although multi-level intersections always require some special tratment.
A railway track is only slightly more tricky because of the sleepers.
Depending on how close together you want the sleepers to be, the join will always be more or less problematic unless you are very careful with the positioning of the anchor point on the branch line. Even then you will always get some overlapping.
But like Monika says, you should draw points/a switch (UK/US) there anyway.

Making 5.1 DCP with Wraptor

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