Making the most of terminal

Now that Terminal supports keychain, I've create connections in the 'Connect to Server' window for each of the 10 servers I connect to on a daily basis.
Is there a way to put these 10 connections in to a window group (so I can open them all at once), or, is there a way to put them in to a folder of shortcuts so I can put them on a stack.
Are there any other things I can do with my terminal connection library that I might not have thought of?
10 named tabs would be great but I'm lead to believe it can't be done.
Thanks
Andrew

System Preferences > General > Number of recent items: set to none.
You might have to go back to Finder > Go Recent Folder and select clear list.

Similar Messages

Making the most of the Zen Micro sound qual

Recently got a Zen Micro, first thing i realise - AMAZING sound quality!
If you want to make the most of this great little player, use WMA (If possible Version 9 or 0) @ 92 Kbps (however this does has a large effect on battery life), configure the custom EQ and perhaps buy some new earphones (I own some Sennheiser Mx500's - FANTASTIC sound quality).
Hope this has been of some help!!

Even better, use LAME encoded VBR MP3s and some Sony EX5/7 canal phones

Book Suggestion for Making the Most of Soundtrack Pro

I have worked with Soundtrack Pro quite a bit but never seem to be able to get the results that I want. I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for a book or books that would help me make the most of this program? I have problems with removing background noise sometimes I mess around and can get decent results but I feel there are common techniques I could use that I just don't know about. Are there any books that would just give me an overview of ways to make audio sound better? Then I can apply it to SP. I know this is not a tech SP question but I figured someone might have a suggestion

I want to preface this remark by saying that I'm a college prof. who teaches this stuff. I DEMAND that my students join LYNDA.COM for their excellent tutorials on seemingly anything and everything. The SOUNDTRACK PRO series is taught by Larry Jordan, an excellent teacher, and a "Sound" enthusiast. The tariff is only 25 bucks a month, and in two months, you'll be on your way. The best texts go for around 80 bucks, so cancel in two months and you're golden. I also recommend bookmarking parts of the Apple User Manual that are "off the main usage stream." example: Noise Reduction, Page 225, is a common destination for my students.

Making the most of the JSF lifecycle

I have read through some documenation for the JSF lifecycle, I am wondering though how you would really take advantage of it?
One of the purposes of JSF was to insulate the developer from having too know much about HTTP. However, how much do they really need to know about JSF lifecycle and what cool things are there that really show the usefullness of this lifecycle being exposed?
Thanks.

beginner2 wrote:
I have read through some documenation for the JSF lifecycle, I am wondering though how you would really take advantage of it?You don't. The phases of the lifecycle are just how JSF ticks; they are not there to make your life easier, they are a design choice you have to know about and have to know how to design around. Not knowing about them is eventually going to lead to unexpected behavior caused by wrong assumptions.
One of the purposes of JSF was to insulate the developer from having too know much about HTTP. Utter nonsense, IMO. To use JSF, you should be incredibly familiar with HTTP, HTML and Javascript. Sticking your head in the sand and not taking the time to know the very foundation you are working on is going to make you step in a pothole and hurt yourself badly sooner rather than later.
Of course, that does not stop people from trying. If you want to meet them, they regularly post "how do I do this", "why does this happen" and "bug in JSF?" questions right here in this forum.
However, how much do they really need to know about JSF lifecycleKnow what each phase of the lifecycle does and in which order they are executed. Know when a phase will be skipped. That is in my opinion what you should know to avoid the gotchas.
and what cool things are there that really show the usefullness of this lifecycle being exposed?See previous statements.

Making the most mobile setup

I am trying to make the moset mobile setup I can for voice overs.
I have a Macbook with Logic, and a RME Fireface 400 which is bus-powered. What I am wanting to know is if there are any bus powered monitors that are any good. I am trying to get rid of the need for many power supply sources ( eg for active monitors, Macbook, Audio interface etc). I could just use headphones, but what I am doing is voice overs for clients, and some of the clients like to hear the voice overs whilst they are being done.
Any suggestions would be great. The monitors do not have to be great quality, but an acceptable quality would be great.

Even better, use LAME encoded VBR MP3s and some Sony EX5/7 canal phones

[Solved] Most Lightweight Terminal Emulator?

I'm currently using simple terminal from suckless.org. It is the most lightweight terminal emulator I could find. I use it with a combination of evilwm, the most lightweight window manager (besides tinywm). Does anyone know of a terminal emulator that is more lightweight terminal emulator then simple terminal?
Last edited by shoober420 (2014-07-31 16:55:32)

I saw your post from early 2013 https://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php … 7#p1213397 and it may depend on how exactly are you launching your terminals. urxvtd uses 10-40 MB, depending on the weather, I guess.
# ps_mem
Private + Shared = RAM used Program
116.0 KiB + 54.0 KiB = 170.0 KiB atd
168.0 KiB + 40.5 KiB = 208.5 KiB gpm
160.0 KiB + 50.5 KiB = 210.5 KiB acpid
148.0 KiB + 72.5 KiB = 220.5 KiB vnstatd
192.0 KiB + 77.0 KiB = 269.0 KiB systemd-resolved
172.0 KiB + 129.5 KiB = 301.5 KiB xinit
172.0 KiB + 138.5 KiB = 310.5 KiB dwmst
228.0 KiB + 132.0 KiB = 360.0 KiB dbus-launch
292.0 KiB + 150.0 KiB = 442.0 KiB startx
336.0 KiB + 289.0 KiB = 625.0 KiB dwm
324.0 KiB + 342.0 KiB = 666.0 KiB su
624.0 KiB + 84.5 KiB = 708.5 KiB systemd-logind
636.0 KiB + 80.0 KiB = 716.0 KiB systemd-networkd
936.0 KiB + 135.0 KiB = 1.0 MiB systemd-udevd
716.0 KiB + 435.5 KiB = 1.1 MiB (sd-pam)
516.0 KiB + 708.0 KiB = 1.2 MiB dbus-daemon (2)
820.0 KiB + 417.0 KiB = 1.2 MiB login
968.0 KiB + 1.3 MiB = 2.3 MiB systemd (2)
4.0 MiB + 265.5 KiB = 4.3 MiB vim
2.7 MiB + 1.9 MiB = 4.6 MiB st (2)
7.5 MiB + 117.0 KiB = 7.6 MiB systemd-journald
8.4 MiB + 2.0 MiB = 10.4 MiB bash (10)
15.4 MiB + 2.4 MiB = 17.8 MiB urxvtd
89.7 MiB + 1.5 MiB = 91.2 MiB Xorg.bin
246.7 MiB + 5.0 MiB = 251.7 MiB firefox
399.4 MiB
=================================
I'm starting a thread about st in a moment, so we can discuss it there.
st is painfully slow with scrolling, but it may be because of my old hardware, dwm, fonts or something else. It certainly encourages you to learn vim's movement commands much faster ;-)

I have a MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008) and am currently running Snow Leopard 10.6.8. I would like to know which is the most stable upgrade for my model. I have read some reviews of Maverick and Yosemite making the older macs slower. Is this true?

I have a MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008), Intel Core 2 Duo 2.53 GHz, 4GB Memory. and am currently running Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
I would like to know which is the most stable upgrade for my model? Mountain Lion, Mavericks or Yosemite?
When I had gone to the apple care centre in India a few months ago to upgrade my OSX to Mountain Lion, I was told that considering my macbook pro's specs, upgrading it would just make it less efficient, and that I should stick to Snow Leopard unless I consider buying a newer mac that would benefit from it. Is this true? I find it a bit hard to believe. Which update is most recommended?
I also notice that my mac has gotten considerably slower. While using chrome, it buffers and struggles with even just 5 tabs open. Could this have something to do with my current ios? As a precaution, I have always been making sure I have enough free space on disk i.e around 70 - 100 free out of 250GB.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Mavericks is no longer available from the App Store, so your choice is Yosemite. One option is to create a new partition (~30- 50 GB), install the new OS, and ‘test drive’ it. If you like/don’t like it it, you can then remove the partition. Do a backup before you do anything. By doing this, if you don’t like it you won't have to go though the revert process.
Check to make sure your applications are compatible.
Application Compatibility
Applications Compatibility (2)

Why is apple - the most innovative company that pioneered customer experience- not making it easier to find out if Iphone is locked or unlocked? it should be simple to find this status on the phone.

Why is apple - the most innovative company that pioneered customer experience- not making it easier to find out if IPhone is locked or unlocked? it should be simple to find this status on the phone. I have to go thru so much trouble to find out if the phone is unlocked or not. There should be a much simpler solution to this.

call them, tell them you NEED a new battery installed, and they need to tell you when they can do it. That is their job to help you! Give pushback if necessary.

They say my iCloud is full. My computer says 22 G out of 25G available. Have tried making contact but it's the most unhelpful help system imaginable.

They say my iCloud is full. My computer says 22 G out of 25G available. Have tried making contact but it's the most unhelpful help system imaginable. Is this the only way to contact the people who sell this stuff. Have tried phone. Doesn't work.

iCloud can be used in two ways.
The first is a central storage location for documents and data used by apps/applications, that enabled you to open that app/application on any device and see and work with your documents regardless of which device you are working on. A simple example would be to start a pages document on your Mac and then complete it on your iPad, without any copying, moving, uploading, searching through filing systems to make this happen.
The second use is for back ups of your mobile device, which can be used to restore those devices should the need rise for whatever reason.
The concept is all quite simple really, although it can become a little more difficult to understand where things might be going wrong if you find yourself in such a situation.

[Guide]Making the Logitech G510 Work On Linux!

Update April 23, 2015: I've got a new keyboard (Corsair K95) so I personally probably won't touch this code ever again if I can help it, however it should be working just fine in it's current state without my dabbling, I've set the code up so that the macros are recorded to script files in /usr/share/g15daemon/macros/ with a provided example script, it should be easy enough to read or modify, and if desired the scripts can be replaced by custom executables. When the buttons on the keyboard are pressed they execute these scripts with a command line argument corresponding to the current M-Key state (so we have different functions for M1, M2 and M3 keys), but I thought this was the easiest and most versatile approach, I feel I've got a lot more freedom to customize the macro keys than I ever did in windows this way. As for the MR Key, it is functioning in that it will record a macro (through Xev) and output it to a text file: /usr/share/g15daemon/macros/Macros by running the MacroRecord script located at /usr/share/g15daemon/macros/MacroRecord, you need to ensure that these scripts are made executable when you install this (unless you use my custom pkgbuild on arch which does this automatically) to use these recorded Macros you just have to copy them over to one of the other scripts (for the respective key you wish to use). The Macro Recording script works for recording most normal macros, but if you try to break it, you will (You should be able to use up to 4 modifier keys on one button press (for a total of 5 buttons held down) without running into any problems, as a limitation) but this script is not complex so it should be easy for anyone using it to open it up and try to improve it or increase the amount of modifier keys supported per macro.
I was working on a Qt5 application that would allow these files to be edited through a Qt based GUI, which also shows the macros recorded by MR for easily copying them over and saving the file. Everything is done except the save function, if someone asks me in a message, I will finish this application for them or send them the source code once I get it.
Latest Source (Comes with Arch PKGBUILDs, install with makepkg -i)
Older Source (Before I coded in the MR key)
Source of Qt GUI Front-End (I never finished this program, you need qt-creator to open these source files and finish them yourself. Without this program you can just manually edit the files in /usr/share/g15daemon/macros as described below, the only parts that haven't been coded in yet are the save code, and the test button code. It should be easy to do though, there is example code in the saveFiles function which you can use to finish it (comment this function out if you want to compile it before you finish up coding it, this function breaks the code since it is not written in functional code) if you just adjust it based on the loadFiles function that is above it which does work for loading all the files, it should be pretty easy to finish this program up. If you finish coding it, feel free to send me a message so that I can link to your complete sources instead. These sources I'm releasing in public domain (do whatever you want with them) but Qt5 is LGPL 3.0 licensed.)
There is now a wiki page for this, but it's content is slightly different from this thread and doesn't offer much support for other distributions.
I have a logitech G510 keyboard, and 2 years back I spent about a week applying several patches I had scoured from around the net as well as making my own modifications as needed to make this work with the old g15daemon drivers (as in, I forked g15daemon, without actually changing the programs name). An alternative to this method is using the gnome15 project (just as g15daemon it is no longer being developed) but I had severe (and quite unacceptable) input lag when I used gnome 15 as well as other major issues and as such I vastly prefer my own method. (Besides I worked hard to make this work, I was toying with source code in a programming language I am not really familiar with (C) and did so non-stop for a week, it'd be a total waste if it wasn't better than the alternative!)
And on february 11th 2015 I made yet another update to these drivers that made them significantly easier to use (before this time, the source code had to be manually edited and the drivers had to be then recompiled ino rder to edit the functionality of the G-Keys (not to mention the source code was an ugly mess because of this roundabout approach) this had to be done because the g15macro part of g15daemon never worked well with this keyboard, so I decided to hardcode the keys into the drivers as a temporary solution, now I've found a more permanent solution which is redirecting the keypresses to bash scripts. One script file for each button, I will explain how to do this later on.
Here is the original thread I made on this if anyone wants to see the ugly mess I went through to get here, luckily that's far behind me now and the code is getting more and more mature over time as I fix it little by little.
How to do it:
What you will need to do is apply these patches for libg15 and g15daemon. (If you want to do it the hard way, use the older Hardcode Patch but I don't recommend it unless you really know that you want it, and know why you want it.)
This can be done on any distro I would assume, for gentoo refer to this thread. To get the sources Download this (latest source) and extract it with unrar, (on arch use makepkg -i to install) in the following order: "libg15 -> libg15render -> g15daemon -> g15stats" (Note: You can edit the macros in the macros folder before installing g15daemon. If you are not on arch you need to manually copy the macros folder to /usr/share/g15daemon/macros/, otherwise the pkgbuild will do it for you. If you are running in another distro you can delete the PKGBUILD file in the folders. I included the unmodified libg15render and g15stats too for the sake of convenience, and as a safety net if they disappear off the face of the internet, which is what they seem to be about to do. If you do not feel like trusting the sources I provided then fear not! the ones I provided are just the original sources (md5sum should match with those found there) (as development for the project seems to have been dropped and these were the final versions ever made) but I assure you, the sources I provided are the original ones downloaded straight from sourceforge. If you are on arch you can use ABS to get the sources from the official repositories and then replace the PKGBUILDs with the ones in my rar (or change them yourself, see wiki). If you want to download your own sources (remember to get my patches too!) then here is an alternative download for the default macros.
Note: In the arch package there were other patches(config-write, recv-oob-answer and uinput) in the package in the official repositories, I added these three to my own file to avoid clutter, the first two are the first two entries of my file, the third is at line 40-71 (two entries) as a part of the same file where I coded in the G-Keys. Depending on your distro and how you get your hands on the sources you may have to adjust this as these patches may already have been applied for you (meaning mine will fail to patch because of mismatching sources). I have no idea what these patches are actually for (would be nice to know) but I imagine they're there for a reason and as such stuck with them.
For other distros figure out how to compile packages from the sources (sorry Arch and Gentoo are the only distros I really use so I can't help with others, but I assure you this can be done on all distros. If it comes down to it ask on their forums for help!)
In the libg15 patch I disabled support for other keyboard models in the first few lines (you will see which if you read the patch) as I suspect many of the changes made might break support for the other devices, but if you want to take your chances just remove the minus sign in front of the device you want to use and hope for the best. If you have a keyboard that was already supported by these drivers, the biggest benefit of getting my version working would be the smoother G-Key functions (since they aren't run through a third party program like g15macro, it's bound to be a little faster and less prone to bugs.) also if you have a G510s and want to try these drivers on that board, you will have to add your keyboards id into this section (or replace the one I added with the appropriate ID for your board) using lsusb to find the right values.
I couldn't get g15macro to work properly with my keyboard and noticed several issues with it (it seemed like it was underdeveloped to me) so my solution to that problem was originally to hardcode the G-key functionalities into the base drivers; But later on I realized I could instead redirect the code to script files that I would create outside of the install, to avoid the load of pain that comes with hardcoding something you may frequently want to change. These drivers are run as root and as such you must be careful and use sudo where applicable to run the commands as your user rather than as root. By default all G-Key presses will be read as commands from the user with uid "#1000", which is in most cases the first user account created on the system. The bonus from this approach is that the G-Keys work much faster than they would using the g15macro and they are also much more customizable than they ever were in windows, the minus is that you need to know/learn bash/shell scripting in order to use it this way. That or find a way to edit the script files to be in a programming language you understand, but bash scripting is the most convenient since you get all the versatility of a terminal in your keyboard that way.
To change the colors of your keyboard you need to edit the libg15.patch file below line 338 (//Set keyboard color based on M led state.) The code there uses the basic RGB format, and each M-Key has it's own line. The default is: Dark-ish Blue(M1/Fallback), Dark-ish Red(M2), Dark-ish Green(M3)
To change the macros, you can (if you installed with my pkgbuild on arch) go to /usr/share/g15daemon/macros/ and within you will find 19 files, an "Example" file (this is like a backup, it's what can be used to reset files back to their defaults if you get lost.) The files are named after the keys they affect, each file has statements for M1, M2 and M3 and then a few extras for errors that uses libnotify for error messages. The default setup also uses libnotify to tell you which key was pressed, and which key was released. If you are not on arch or gentoo and could not install directly from my sources, you will need to either copy the files from my rar to "/usr/share/g15daemon/macros/" and edit them from there, or create them yourself from scratch on that path (the names of the scripts are G# where # is the number of the key, make sure that the files are executable with chmod +x if you are more advanced, you can edit the g15daemon.patch file if the location of the macros isn't to your liking and change the path to the scripts to something more convenient for you (e.g. ".../.config/g15daemon/")
By default, the scripts will look something like this:
#!/bin/sh
declare -i mkey=$(( $2 + 1 ))
declare -r key="G1"
#M1
if [[ "$1" == "on" && $2 -eq 0 ]]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key: 'M'$mkey', state='$1
elif [ $2 -eq 0 ]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key: 'M'$mkey', state='$1
fi
#M2
if [[ "$1" == "on" && $2 -eq 1 ]]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key: 'M'$mkey', state='$1
elif [ $2 -eq 1 ]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key: 'M'$mkey', state='$1
fi
#M3
if [[ "$1" == "on" && $2 -eq 2 ]]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key: 'M'$mkey', state='$1
elif [ $2 -eq 2 ]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key: 'M'$mkey', state='$1
fi
#Else (Errors)
#If there is no input
if [[ -z "$@" ]]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key": Error!" 'There was no input'
fi
#If M key state is out of range (less than zero or more than 2)
if [[ $2 -lt 0 || $2 -gt 2 ]]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key": Error!" 'There is no M'$mkey'! (State='$1')'
fi
#If the first input variable (on/off) is incorrect. This should never happen.
if [[ -n "$1" && "$1" != "on" && "$1" != "off" ]]; then
/usr/bin/notify-send $key": Warning!" '"'$1'" is not a valid state! (M'$mkey'), defaulting to "off".'
fi
And here is an example of how the M1-M3 keys could be edited in this file. The "if" statements are events that occur when you press down on the button, and the elif statements are for the key release.
#M1
if [[ "$1" == "on" && $2 -eq 0 ]]; then
thunar /mnt/stash/movies & disown
fi
#^elif is not needed and can be erased for this command to avoid the notification of key-release. The & disown part is extremely important, if you forget to add this to the end of every line where you execute a program that will keep running after you release the button, you will not be able to use any G-Keys until you terminate the program. If you remember to add the & disown, everything will be fine.
#M2
if [[ "$1" == "on" && $2 -eq 1 ]]; then
xdotool keydown Ctrl && xdotool keydown Page_Down
elif [ $2 -eq 1 ]; then
xdotool keyup Ctrl && xdotool keyup Page_Down
fi
#^The above executes the keyboard combo Ctrl+Page Down (Next Tab) and holds these buttons down until your key release is detected.
#M3
if [[ "$1" == "on" && $2 -eq 2 ]]; then
xdotool keydown Super && xdotool keydown F1 && xdotool keyup Super && xdotool keyup F1
fi
#^The above is my keyboard shortcut for changing workspaces, (Meta + F1-F6), since I won't ever need to hold these buttons down, I set them up to press and release on keydown, with no need to detect the key release, this is good to do to avoid a bug I mention lower in the guide.
That's the gist of it, all you need to know. You can test-fire the commands in your terminal before you add them to the files. Recompiling and re-installing the G15Daemon (at least on arch) will overwrite your existing macros in /usr/lib/g15daemon/macros. Last but not least, you should remember the sleep command (for example, to restart g15daemon, do g15daemon -k && sleep 5 && g15daemon this is how you can set up timed commands and macros on your G-Keys as well. I may later on develop a GUI front-end for editing the macros, and program the MR-key to work like it does on Windows, but right now I'm satisfied with what I've got, so that will have to wait.
You need to know:
-The g15daemon service should be started after X11/Xorg-Server is started or any commands that require X (like opening a folder, or graphical notifications) will not work. (You can either just wait till you log in and use xinitrc or an autostart script for your desktop environment to start the service, or you can set up a restart script which kills the original instance (g15daemon -k) and starts a new one, this may be good to know if you would like the service to be started on bootup so you wont have to look at white leds until you have logged in. You can use sudo to run these services as a user). You can also try to have the g15daemon initiate after your display manager loads. (For example make the initscript depend on kdm if you're using kde, I have not tried this though)
Add this to the sudo configuration with visudo so you can run the g15daemon with sudo and no password (this should work on most distros, if not find the executable, could be in sbin (is on gentoo) like so: "/usr/sbin/g15daemon")
ALL ALL = (root) NOPASSWD: /usr/bin/g15daemon
(You can replace the first "ALL" with a username or % group if you want to limit the command to just one user)
-I have not tested the headphone/mic plugs on the keyboard (please do comment your results if you try to use that)
-This is not completely bug free.
-There is no support for tracking launched/focused application and changing the M-Key mode depending on what you are doing (this would be useful though)
-The MR key is not supported, but the LED works.
Known Issues: (ordered by severity, if you want to contribute fixing these issues is the best thing you can do to help as I seem incapable of it)
Sometimes the Key Release of G keys is not detected (this means if you have a key bound to the button that is held until the key is released, the release may not be detected properly. This only happens if you press the key quickly, not if you hold it for a short period before releasing it this is solved by either pressing the key again, or not relying on the key-release state, the latter is fairly easy to do as you can use "variables" and "if"s and "do/while" or "for" in C to set keys with toggle functions.
Keypress detection for the G-Keys isn't 100% reliable, it will work completely fine 95% of the time or so, but sometimes (usually only if a G key has not been pressed in a while) the key needs to be pressed twice (This was much worse when g15macro was used and the keys almost always had to be pressed twice if I recall correctly). This may look like it's a huge bother at first, but really I hardly ever notice this when I'm using the keyboard and it is a very rare occurance.
The Volume Wheel is erratic, I used patches from the net to make the wheel work but the wheel was unusable, I managed to make it just barely usable but I wouldn't call it "reliable" in it's current state. It does however work "ok". The wheel worked fine with generic keyboard drivers so maybe there is something in there to shed light on how to make them properly work (remember that there was a bit in libg15.c that made the wheel work, the other half of it is in uinput.c)
The M-Key leds (M1, M2 and M3) will not light up until a G-Key or one of the M keys is pressed (very minor, I tried to fix this but failed, gave up since it's not really important)
Run "g15daemon -d" for debug mode to see output from the driver when it is running you will repeatedly get the following error, I have no idea what this is but I do not like it
libg15: Unknown usb error: Keyboard Read !! (err is -75 (Value too large for defined data type))
look around line 471 of the patched libg15.c to see where the error is being printed from.
Terminating the g15daemon (g15daemon -k) will render the keyboard unusable and can result in bugs (for example your next keypress may be detected but release will not be detected) so be careful when doing something like that. Unplugging the keyboard and plugging it back in solves this issue.
Scroll-Lock led does not work (this is not specific to this keyboard, it is a Linux problem and affects all keyboards as far as I am aware)
I personally prefer using this keyboard in Linux over using it in Windows because of how much more configurable it is (there's nothing I can't do with the press of a button now) and switching workspaces with just one button each for a total of 6 is a joy!
Feel free to comment below with any questions or thoughts, any suggestions to improve the code or other contributions are greatly appreciated! I am not skilled in C programming and as such some of my code may look hideous to those who would know what they're doing so better ways to achieve the same results will not be ignored either and I will add any significant updates to the OP when I see them.
Good Luck and Enjoy
PS: I know the libg15 patch is rather "unclean" (contains a lot of redundant patches, i.e. replacing a line with the same line) but I was too lazy to clean it up. I tried once but it did not work out so well
If you have a G510s and this did not work for you, I may be able to help you get that working, comment if you want help with that (the first step to try is on the wiki)
Last edited by rabcor (2015-05-08 14:41:34)

Major Update: The G-Keys can now be edited without recompiling by editing shell scripts at "/usr/share/g15daemon/macros/"
Each button has it's own script file named by it's label (e.g. to edit the functionality of G1, open the script named G1.) The button will try to execute the scripts as programs, so make sure they are executable (chmod +x) and as long as the name remains the same, if you want to replace the files with something different, know that the arguments currently given to the files ($1 and $2) are ($1)on/off and ($2)0-2 (where 0 is M1 and 2 is M3)
To download the updated sources, go here (only the g15daemon source/patch was updated). This thread's OP has been updated.
Last edited by rabcor (2015-02-12 04:46:48)

How to get the most from Nokia Support Discussions

This forum is a community of users of Nokia products and services from around the world who share their experiences and help people to solve problems. I've been using this forum for a couple of years now, I originally joined because I work in telecomms and I was looking for answers to a few issues that I was experiencing, and like many of the regular members, I've been coming here ever since. There is a really good crowd here, and it is often fun to read the boards as well as informative.
If you have a problem, if nobody else can help, and if you can find us (it's not hard, Discussions all over Google whenever you search for something Nokia-related), then maybe you can hire: The D Team!
The communityThis is a peer-to-peer community, you are usually dealing with people who have an interest in mobile technology, albeit with a particular preference to Nokia, who can help on a wide range of questions - the advantage that we have as a community is that many users have experience of a range of devices and accessories, so you can often get help here about issues concerning Nokia products being used with products from other companies that even Nokia itself cannot offer. There has also recently been a presence of Nokia staff (their usernames are shown in green) who are also helping users on the forum in their own time.
Unlike many forums that we all use regularly, this is an official forum owned and run by Nokia, not the creation of amateur enthusiasts like you and I, so they are much more strict about behaviour than other forums, and the moderators will remove anything that is offensive or disrespectful to other users, or which may cause offence to users of a sensitive nature. Basically, you should treat other users the way you could treat another member of the public in a public place - too many people take advantage of the anonymity offered by the internet to behave in a way that they would not normally do.
This forum is not a source of official support from Nokia, for that you have to call or e-mail from the "Contact us" link. Most of us are just normal consumers like you, therefore we don't have information on when products, services, software updates etc. will be available so it's futile to ask. Nokia doesn't even publish this information in most cases, so even the Nokia employee members probably wouldn't be able to answer these sorts of questions even if they do have the information.
Tips for getting your question answered:
(1) Search firstSomebody else may already have posted the same question, so you can save yourself time by checking first if the answer you need is already published on the forum.
(2) Choose the right boardPeople are online at different times, we may be taking a break from our work, relaxing at home after a meal, flicking back to the forum whilst doing other surfing on the 'net or anything else, and people will look in boards where they have a specific personal interest so, for example, if you have a problem playing a video on your N96 use the Imaging and videos board in the Ovi and Mobile Media section or if you have a problem installing themes or applications on your 6220 Classic, use the Phone Applications under Software. Posting these questions on the Nseries and S60 smartphones board might see them get lost amongst lots of technical questions about the phone itself, you have a better chance of getting an answer by choosing the right place to ask it.
(3) Write a clear titleSpeaking for myself, I don't have time to read everything on the boards, so I look for topics that I might be able to answer; therefore don't just put the subject as a phone model number or the name of an application or users might just pass over your post without opening it to read. For example, a title like "Can't get GPS signal in 5800" is much more likely to catch the attention of an experienced GPS user or a 5800 user and get the question answered quicker.
(4) Explain your problem clearlyPhones and the software that we use in them and with them grow ever more complex, just saying "I can't send an SMS" or "Mr camera isn't working" does not give any information with which an experienced user can help you to troubleshoot. Whatever the case, explain exactly what you are trying to achieve, what you tried, and describe what happened, for example: did an application shut itelf down? Did the phone freeze? Was there an error message, and if so what was it? All of this will help other users to identify what is going wrong for you and the less questions they have to ask you back, the quicker they might help you.
Tips for making the right impression:
(5) Use normal textWRITING ENTIRELY IN CAPITALS does not convey a sense of urgency, in internet communities it is perceived as shouting or other generally agressive behaviour, so it will not win the hearts and minds of the people whose help you need. Also, using large characters or bright colours may look nice to you, but too much text written in very large, bold or colourful letters can simply fill the screen unnecessarily and is not always any easier to read, so it can also put people off from helping you. Use these features when you need to highlight a particular point, not all of the time. (6) Resize imagesIf you are embedding a picture in your post, resize it so that it fits into the frame of the normal page. A full screenshot of your PC or a megapixel+ picture will stretch the borders of the page so far that people have to scroll left and right repeatedly to read not only your post, but the entire page of the thread that it is on, and just as above, if you make it difficult for others to read the thread, they could miss some information or just pass over it altogether. If you want to share a large image, you can also add it as an attachment to the post so that people can view it when they choose without impacting on the display of the page for everybody.
(7) Pleeeeaaaaazzzzeeee don't do thisFar from making most users take pity on you and try to help you, this kind of thing can be just as bad as all capitals, especially is you make a word so long that it affects the display of the page like inserting large images does. You are also better off not using SMS shorthand and local slang in your posts, because users of the boards are from all over the world and might be speaking English as a second, third, etc. language, so the person who knows the exact solution to your question might not understand the way you have asked it.
Message Edited by mccbleue on 24-Sep-2009 03:48 PM

You mention it is a DV/HDV Film - how did you edit it? Did you edit both formats on the same timeline in Final Cut? (What were the settings in Final Cut for the timeline?)
If you are using HDV in a timeline due to the length of time to conform the output, you may be better off exporting the entire thing for testing (small enough for HDV, though I often use AIC or 422 nowadays).
What settings are you using in Compressor? I know you mentioned many combinations, but did you use any frame controls? What was the rate? Did you use CBR/VBR?
One thing to try to get things started. Use 8 CBR and in the frame controls set them to to "Better" for all of them. Will take a bit longer using the filters but should give you an idea where you are at. (Also take a look at the self contained movie to see if there are any artifacts/picels there).
How are you watching the DVD - computer screen or burning to a DVD?

I'm relatively new to Mac and want to try and get the most out of the new MacBook Air.   My wife and I have been sharing the same Apple ID. We both have iPhones - she has a 5 and I've got a 4S.   We only have one copy of iTunes and we have been sharing t

I'm relatively new to Mac and want to try and get the most out of the new MacBook Air.
My wife and I have been sharing the same Apple ID. We both have iPhones - she has a 5 and I've got a 4S.
We only have one copy of iTunes and we have been sharing the account. (She doesn't really use the computer for anything beyond writing the odd weekend assignment.)
Would I be better off setting her up with her own and making her as a separate user on the computer? Would this require much work?
In recent times with updates, we have a few problems with the duplication of texts and that sort of thing. Both of our texts are stored on the computer and that sort of thing. Also, sometimes texts I send her are sent through to me from her, if that makes any sense.
Anyway, I don't really want to overly complicate matters when it comes to accounts etc, but I wanted to know if a fresh Apple ID would be the best thing or even a new user?
Any tips etc would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
MacBook
I have this question too (0) Reply

Your question is almost too much a personal one, begging the question "do we (husband and wife) feel comfy sharing one account on the Mac"   maybe thats why nobody answered you.
It doesnt complicate anything, but it adds steps for switching accounts on the Mac/ purchases etc. of course
since your question is mostly personal, ..I wont answer THAT part of it, but creating a new account is easy.....messing with switching back and forth is also a personal preference 'issue' as well.   I prefer to keep things simple, but...........you and yours, I dont know.......
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11468

The most systematic analysis of Lumia 800 battery ...

Hi, don’t mean to be arrogant, but I’ve read many threads, forums, posts etc. There are tons of info, someone tried a table, etc. but no one has attempted to summarise the relevant parameters. So here goes:
1.     I have a Cyan 800, bought locked at “3” UK, then unlocked. It’s beautiful and makes iApple UI look, well, jurassic or geriatric in comparison. The screen is so beautiful that I switched the thing on just to marvel at the ease of reading the glorious white on black (real black, not grey) and I am smitten by the ascetic aesthetics of the UI that put function over form (I simply can't stomach the saccharine animation of Apple, it is an eye candy for a while, then becomes bothersome, at least to me.
2.     Initially, I noticed that the battery life was not great, but it did not seem disastrous, and I read all the gleeful Apple worshipping media trying to fan the battery issue, but I thought that it was a storm in a tea cup and just the usual attempt to put-down any competition to Apple.
3.     Until a couple of days ago I noticed that I have less than ½ charge after only a few hours off the charger without really doing almost anything.
4.     I panicked, read as much I could the forums, etc. (including probably the most technical – XDA-Forums) but got there only one real advice, the “diagnostics” mode (dial ##634# - I also downloaded an App (called Diagnostics) that does bring you straight to the relevant page without the need to “dial” the ##634#).
5.     I then tried to see what was draining the battery, I stopped 3G connection and “presto”, the drainage stopped and I thought that I resolved the problem (at least for me, there were clearly problems with a certain hardware code, see below).
6.     For one day, the battery was very durable. Even though I had some reasonable With-Fi browsing and calls (GSM, not 3G), there was more than a 1/3rd of the battery left after about 20 hours of the last charge.
7.     Then, today, the morning began very well (in terms of the battery), it was losing less than a few percentage points every hour. I used it for light browsing and a bit of Bluetooth listening. Them my 7-yr old played some X-Box games for a bit, but the battery was way above 2/3rds. I then noticed that the phone was warm even though it was not on. Initially, I thought that it was warm because it was on my body, but then I noticed very fast fall in the battery level. Check:
a.      the 3G again, no it is still off
b.     wi-fi and Bluetooth off
c.      I even checked what Apps were in the background (though I know that it is NOT draining)
d.     - nothing helps, the drainage was high, even when the phone was closed (i.e., not used).
8.     There was nothing I could do, until I shut the phone down completely and switched it on again. Then, the drainage returned to the “good” level, i.e., a few percentage points per hour.
9.     So bottom line, I think that there was something going-on “in the background (that is why the device was warm even when closed) – the problem is that this seems to be intermittent/random and very difficult to put the finger on what causes this problem. I hope that Nokia resolves this problem and not only the “low” battery capacity (see below) that Nokia acknowledged.
So after this long intro, what do I see as the “hard-points” here? The most important parameters for the story seem to be in the following screens:
1.     “Diagnostics” (##634#) “Battery Status” screen;
2.     “Settings”/”Systems”/”about” screen, have to press the “more information” button;
3.     “Settings”/”Systems”/”battery saver” screen;
4.     The battery icon and its remaining capacity representation on the main screen.
The “Diagnostics” (##634#) “Battery Status” screen:
It seems to contain the following info:
·       “Charged” – seems to display ALWAYS the figure “65535%”;
·       “Voltage” – seems to show figures of between 3.700 V (i.e., volts) to 4.1 or 4.2 volts
·       “Current”, followed by “charging” or “discharging” and the current, usually between 130 mA (i.e., milliamp) and 500 mA.
·       “Full Charge Capacity” – showing different figures for different people, usually between slightly above 900 mAh (i.e., milli-Amper-hours) and slightly above 1,500 mAh. Although in this should logically be a fixed-for-ever, or at least in the short term level, the figure seems to fluctuate slightly, see below for more detail.
·       “Remaining Charge Capacity” – clearly the most important parameter, showing the remaining mAh in the battery. Although in theory, the level immediately after long charge should be equal or very near the “Full Charge Capacity”, in practice, it almost never is (remember, I take this not only from my case, but also from numerous reports that I got from the various forums), see below for more detail.
The “Settings”/”Systems”/”about” screen, the relevant info items:
·       OS version – it seems that the latest one (as of late dec 2011) should include “7740” in it. apparently, Nokia promised some respite from the battery bugs in this “7740” update, but from what I read in the forums, there was absolutely no difference.
·       Firmware revision number – interestingly, the firmware revision number includes “7720”, though I am not sure what it means.
·       Hardware revision number – this ends up with “xxx.3” or “xxx.4” – as below, I wonder if this is a different OEM factories designation, but it seems to me that it is the “xxx.4” that has one type of problem (low “Full Charge Capacity” of under 1,000 mAh).
The “Settings”/”Systems”/”battery saver” screen – what is relevant for us is under the “battery information” – you must unplug the phone from charger to see three lines:
·       “Remaining battery life”: supposed to be between 0 and 100% of course (though in this context, calling it “remaining battery life” is misleading, or at least inconsistent with the “remaining charge capacity” of “Battery Status” screen. Perhaps it would be better to call this “remaining charge”
·       “Estimated time remaining” – measured in hours, in my case, it is always under 15 houts. There is no explanation what it means, I would guess that this is “how many hours will your phone work in stand-by mode”, but then it is way way below what Nokia said – measured in hundreds of hours.
·       “Time since last charge – measured in hours.
So below I summarise my findings, but first, my unit parameters:
Color: Cyan (does not seem to make any difference to people out there – problems “cross” colours;
OS: “7.10.7740.16”
Firmware: 1600.2475.7720.11414
Hardware: 112.1402.2.3
So, in MY case:
1.     “Battery Status” screen:
·       “Charged” – seems to ALWAYS display the figure “65535%”, like all others on the forums. This must be some kind of mistake because it does not change or update and makes no sense, now that we are in this so deep, I hope that Nokia explains what the hell this means, if at all;
·       “Voltage” – seems to show figures of between 3.700 V (i.e., volts) to 4.1 or 4.2 volts. When the battery is low, the voltage seems also to fall below 4.0;
·       “Current”, followed by “charging” or “discharging” and the current, usually between 130 mA (i.e., milliamp) and 500 mA. When the battery “plays nice”, i.e., there is no “problem”, this figure is under 150 ma, usually going seesaw between 140 and 155. When 3G is on, it is above 250 towards 270 mA
·       “Full Charge Capacity” – showing for me usually above 1,500, constantly changes, though less frequently then other figures in this screen. Strangely I noticed that when it is cold (I was jogging and it was in an external pocket with about 7C outside), this number went lower, under 1,500. Perhaps the battery when colder can hold less charge? Nokia should explain. I think that in case of Hadware versions that end in “x.4” the maximum in this parameter is reported under 1,000.
·       “Remaining Charge Capacity” – in my unit this never reaches the “Full Charge Capacity” (which is usually slightly above 1,500 mAh), it stops below 1,350 mAh.
2.     “Battery Saver Screen” and the battery icon on the main screen:
In my case, because the “Remaining” charge never reaches close to the “Full Charge”, when I disconnect the phone from charger, I get straight that “Remaining Battery Life” is “94%” (1350/1500 or so) – and the icon is never 100% “full”, rather “almost” full. “Estimated time remaining” never really above 15 hrs.
So, there seem to be (at least) two major issues/problems in relation to battery/working-time:
1.     Firmware revision (probably) “x.4” may have a faulty battery that would not charge above 1,000 mAh (950 mAh is mentioned by many, or about 1/3rd less than intended by Nokia (unless it is a software bug, which will be huge relief for all, especially for nokia);
2.     Firmware revision “x.3” may have escaped the “crippled” battery of revision “x.4” guys, but from time to time it can lose battery charge at least 2 times faster than otherwise, most likely due to some background processes that can be felt as the device becomes warm even when not switched on (i.e., in stand-by mode). This seems to be intermittent or random and can be stopped by powering-down the phone and then powering-up again.
3.     In all cases, the claim that the phone can be several days in sand-by mode, must be wrong and Nokia must address and explain this.
So in summary, at least in respect of battery, there is a mess. Will be interesting if some people with other WP7 devices can chip-in and say whether it is similar in their cases, but Nokia should be open and explain and even admit mistakes, I hope that this can be rectified by software, or at least it is not a “terminal” complication for Lumia 800, which is a beautiful device.

I would like to thank all the people here who have taken the time to put all this info together for us all and hope it is of help to the folks who are having trouble with battery life. I'm not doing to bad on battery life myself as it always last me though the working part of the day when I don’t have access to a charger and I will soon be updating my car cradle to take the Lumia so will have access to a charger though the day to. Personally I have come from the N900 and that phone also had some battery issues when it first came out which where pretty much sorted over time, as for manufactures claims on battery life, I always read these figures the same way I would read expected miles per gallon that car manufactures put out, meaning that there would only be a very select few that would ever get what the manufactures say you can get the rest of us will all get a very wide variation on these figures. I know that Nokia have acknowledged that there is an issue with battery life and not all of us have this issue, at this moment in time I'm not to unhappy with the battery life, but if it improves then I will be pleased. From all the posts I have read on this site it does seem that some people do read manufactures specifications as if there are set in stone, I'm not criticizing anyone here would just like to say that they are trying to sell you something so have a good look at the figures and maybe check them with other independent sources if at all possible. My only disappointment really is that we have to rely on other people and not Nokia themselves to let us know what’s going on, I wish the manufacture would be more open and quicker to let us know what’s going on and what they are doing to sort out problems and some sort of time frame that we could expect something to come out to fix a problem. I know bugs can me very difficult to find and ever more difficult to fix sometimes but if Nokia put out a weekly report about how things where going on bug fixes or forth coming updates it would help everyone in deciding where they are going with their chosen product.
Again many thanks to all the people helping us all out and wish you all a happy bug free new year.

When I open Firefox the following alert appears: "Could not initialize the application's security component. The most likely cause is problems with files in your application's profile directory." There is a solution in the forum but only for Windows based

When I open the application the following alert appears: "Could not initialize the application's security component. The most likely cause is problems with files in your application's profile directory." There is a solution on the support site but only for Windows-based Firefox, and I'm a Mac user. I have plenty of room on my hard disk.
== This happened ==
Every time Firefox opened
== Two days ago, for no apparent reason.

In Mac OS X v10.7, the $HOME/Library folder is a hidden folder.
Open Finder and use one of these:
* Go > Go To Folder (Shift-Command-G) and in the dialog type: ~/Library
* Open the "Go" menu and hold down the Option key to make the Library appear
You can also use this command in a Terminal window to remove the hidden flag.
* Mac HD > Applications > Utilities > Terminal
* chflags nohidden ~/Library

What's the most effective way to speed up AVCHD video editing?

Hello Everyone,
I'm having the same problem, my wife and I have a small wedding videography company, I film jobs on weekends when I'm not working full time and my wife stays home with our 2 year old daughter and edits during the week.
When jobs come in we both are using our macbook pro's for the import process because it takes SOOO long to import all the avchd clips. We're filming with the Panasonic HMC40 shooting in 720/30p on Class 10 16GB SDHC Cards.
I have an early 2008 macbook pro, 2.4Ghz Core 2 Duo 2GB of ram, and my wife has a 2010 unibody with a dual core i5 w/ 4GB of ram.
As a test, I imported an 8 minute and 47 second clip in my machine, and the import takes 20:39. I went to my local apple store and ran the same import test on brand new machines and here are the results:
mbp Core 2 duo 2GB ram time: 20:39 (my machine)
mbp dual core i5 4GB ram time: 7:08 (my wife's machine)
mbp quad core i7 4GB ram time: 4:50
mba core 2 duo 1.86Ghz 2GB ram SSD 64GB drive time: 12:17
imac quad core 2.7Ghz 4GB ram time: 4:54
imac quad core 2.8Ghz 3GB ram 4:27
mac pro 2.8Ghz 3GB ram 3:42
I watched the quad core i7 macbook pro's performance monitor, and at one point it had 63 iMovie threads running to import the footage. The biggest bottleneck for importing avchd seems to be the processor. With an import time of about have of the real time, that has the biggest appeal to me, but comes at a starting price of $1799 + tax, and is expensive.
What I'm looking for is the most cost effective way to cut down on import and export times for either new hardware or software. I haven't tested the elgato h.264 HD encoder yet, nor have I tested the new Final Cut X. Has anyone done this? What about Adobe Premier Elments or Premier Pro
Our compeditors are offering 'same day edit' services, and making basically a trailer of the events that happen at the ceremony, then editing them on site in a 3-4 hour time window between the ceremony and reception, then using a projector and screen to show that trailer at the beginning of the reception, usually added to the slide show.
That's the kind of thing that we want to be able to do for our customers, but also to cut down the massive amount of editing time it takes to get every finished product out the door.
What does everyone think? Is the elgato h.264 HD encoder worth it? Is there a more professional avchd / h.264 hardware / software solution that can speed up the import process faster?
I'd love to know everyone's thoughts.
Thanks.
Chris
[URL="http://freedomvideography.com"]Wisconsin Wedding Videography[/URL]

One thing you might consider...
Go to Final Cut Pro X.
In FCP 10, you can import AVCHD and begin editing immediately. You can edit natively in AVCHD if your needs are very simple, but most people would use FCP to "optimize" the AVCHD to ProRes 422, which is an intermediate codec like Apple Intermediate Codec, but provides higher quality. The optimizing to ProRes 422 as well as analyzing for stabilization, sound, and color takes place in the background if you have cores available.
But you can edit immediately, and as the optimized clips become available, FCP will automatically use them instead of the AVCHD clips.

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