Matrox $450 hardware for upscaling sd footage / hdmi in and out is usable?

I have a lot of Sd footage (DV 720x576) footage as I used to work with professional film 10 years ago or so. I would love to be able to upscale the footage to HD (1080) in a good way both quality wise and not to spend huge amounts of money on extra hardware. It seems Matrox came about reccently with some good hardware to do this. Does anyone have any personal experience with this product or any advice?
It is the: "Matrox Mx02 Mini":
http://www.matrox.com/video/media/pdf/products/mxo2mini/en_Matrox_MXO2Mini.pdf

The camera uses the Apple HDV codec. It looks good, and plays black well in Final Cut. It offers a pretty good variety of recording options 720, 1080, 30p, 60p, etc.
The XDCAM recording, however, has not been as trouble free. I recorded some footage using the XDCAM mode, and I could not get it to play back in an editing system using Adobe Premiere CS3. We tried everything and nothing seemed to work. Then we got our hands on a Sony EX1 and had no problems bringing in the footage and it looked great.
I think part of the issue was that the JVC camera uses some type of wrapper to emulate the XDCAM footage, and is not true XDCAM.
The other thing that annoyed me about the whole "XDCAM" on the JVC is that I was told the only way to record in the XDCAM format was to buy a $500 SxS adapter. Then we could record on either the SxS card OR the SD card. Now just a couple months later, JVC comes out and says that they have a firmware update that eliminates the need for the SxS adapter! That did not make me happy! I am hoping that JVC will make things right by allowing me to return the adapter, or at least provide some type of credit towards my next purchase, but I doubt it.
Of course overall I am happy with the camera, but I would not buy it if you plan on relying on the XDCAM feature.
Hope that helps
Ken

Similar Messages

  • For five days bought iphone 4s and out of the blue loses the signal on the network and makes it very regularly, I have upgraded to version 5.0.1 if you can help me

    for five days bought ipione 4s and out of the blue loses the signal on the network and makes it very regularly, I have upgraded to version 5.0.1 if you can help me.
    I had the previous model and forced to buy 4s to catch a better signal, the network I have is cosmote and where it is full house is important, I want your help

    Hi ChrisBell,
    my Pixi shows me the missed calls in a list of its own? I don't have many, so maybe I'm missing something. But I agree with your half-ranting to some degree. As a long-time Palm-user (my last phone was a Treo 680, terrible form factor, good UI), I am really disappointed with the standard software on this phone. Memos and Tasks, which AFAIK were there and useful even on the first Newton's, have regressed beyond the point of usefulness now (solution: Toodledo and Done!, at least for now).
    But ChrisBell: if you feel up for it, you could start tinkering. Many people love these phones so much they have started developing patches to solve the obvious problems skimmed over by developers. Try looking up "webosquickinstall" and "preware", and you will find over 300 patches and a lot of free software to help you out. I am not a computer wizard myself, but I am not scared of them either, and I have been able to make good use of all these extras made available by the community.
    just a thought, might help you out on a few of your half-rants

  • Alternative VIs for In Port.vi and Out Port.vi for 64 bit Windows 7 platform

    Hi Need to use the printer port for my application. In Port and Out Port VIs was the simplest option in 32 bit Windows XP machine. Now I hear In Port and Out Port VIs are not supported in 64 bit Windows ( VISTA/7) machine. Is there any working alternative to In/Out Port.vi ??
    Thanks in Advance
    RKB
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    VISA can easily be used to solve your problem. If using a USB -> Serial adapter it's almost too easy.
    /Y
    LabVIEW 8.2 - 2014
    "Only dead fish swim downstream" - "My life for Kudos!" - "Dumb people repeat old mistakes - smart ones create new ones."
    G# - Free award winning reference based OOP for LV

  • I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog.  Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?

    I want to buy a new apple tv but it used hdmi cables and my house is only wired for analog.  Is there any way I can use the apple tv on analog cables?

    Welcome to the Apple Community.
    It's do-able, but I don't think it's a great idea.
    DVI
    Some users with DVI have managed to get their TV's to work with DVI-HDMI cables. DVI carries no audio, so alternative connections need to be explored to enable audio. DVI doesn't necessarily support HDCP as well as other standards used by HDMI (which may or may not be an issue)
    Analogue
    There are hardware converters that will convert HDMI to various other types of output, however there are some issues with doing so that you should be aware of.
    HDCP
    HDCP compliant converters will not allow you to watch HDCP protected content such as that from the iTunes Store. Non compliant converters exist but we cannot discuss them under the Terms of Use for these communities.
    Resolution and aspect ratio
    I'm not aware of any converters that will scale the output from the Apple TV, any TV or projector which is used will need to be widescreen and support resolutions of 720p (Apple TV 2), 720p/1080p (Apple TV 3)
    DAC
    DAC (Example Only - Not a recommendation or suggestion that this is suitable in your circumstances)

  • I've just hooked my 20" iMac up to my Toshiba 37" HDTV using a mini dvi-HDMI adapter, and works well, EXCEPT for the green tinge (or hue) that is showing up on my TV. Any suggestions or ideas?

    I've just hooked my 20" iMac display up to my Toshiba 37" HDTV using a mini dvi-HDMI adapter, and everything works well, EXCEPT for the green tinge (or hue) that is showing up. Everything else looks pretty good though..... The color that is on my iMac is still good, Its just green on the TV.
    Anyone have suggestions or ideas?

    Try opening the Display System Preferences, then click on the Color options in the Display preferences window that appeared on the Toshiba display. Click on the Calibrate button and follow the instructions for creating a custom ColorSync profile that will hopefully solve the green tinge issue. The Apple Display Calibrator Assistant software that launches when you click on the calibrate button will walk you through the process.Assuming that the green tinge is minor and that you don't have a more serious cable or hardware issue, I am hopeful the results will be worth it.

  • Using ATV2/3 with non-HDMI Receiver and theater projector and also need iTunes downloaded movies to work.   I'm thinking to use the Toslink digital out for surround sound and an HDMI to RGB converter for video but not sure the iTunes DRM will prevent?

    I have a theater with a Runco projector but non HDMI. alas, my receiver is non HDMI. Changing electronics and projector is a non-starter.
    I would like to be able to buy HD movies on iTunes and watch them by streaming via Apple TV3. My plan is to capture surround sound from the TosLink digital out, which my preamp/receiver can handle. For the video, I need to convert the HDMI to RGB component to feed my receiver.
    This is where iTunes DRM and HDCP issues might arise. I am under the impression that I need an non-HDMI compliant converter so that ATV3 can even talk to my receiver. It is my understanding that this is possible and takes care of the HDCP issue. But what about the DRM issue? All I want to do is buy and watch HD movies, no bad intentions. I find it incredible that iit might not be possible.
    Anyways, is there a 100% certain approach even if it costs up to $300-400. Again, changing hardware is a non-starter so please avoid the obvious "buy an HDMI amp and projector".
    Thanks

    I have a theater with a Runco projector but non HDMI. alas, my receiver is non HDMI. Changing electronics and projector is a non-starter.
    I would like to be able to buy HD movies on iTunes and watch them by streaming via Apple TV3. My plan is to capture surround sound from the TosLink digital out, which my preamp/receiver can handle. For the video, I need to convert the HDMI to RGB component to feed my receiver.
    This is where iTunes DRM and HDCP issues might arise. I am under the impression that I need an non-HDMI compliant converter so that ATV3 can even talk to my receiver. It is my understanding that this is possible and takes care of the HDCP issue. But what about the DRM issue? All I want to do is buy and watch HD movies, no bad intentions. I find it incredible that iit might not be possible.
    Anyways, is there a 100% certain approach even if it costs up to $300-400. Again, changing hardware is a non-starter so please avoid the obvious "buy an HDMI amp and projector".
    Thanks

  • Can i get an adapter for macbook to make hdmi port?

    can i get an adapter for macbook to make hdmi port?

    Yes, but the one you need depends on the specific MacBook you have.
    Earlier MacBooks use a Mini-DVI and later ones use a Mini DisplayPort for their video output. To find out which MacBook you have, go to the  (Apple menu) and choose About This Mac. Click More Info... and in the System Profiler window that opens, choose Hardware. Your Model Identifier will be shown.
    For MacBook1,1 though MacBook4,1 choose a Mini-DVI to HDMI Adapter
    For MacBook5,1 and later choose a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter
    Either one is commonly available for less than $10.

  • Fw hardware for premiere.

    We Need hardware for Adobe premiere cc. The problem is..our Mac pro is old and has only fw output. Our monitor has hd Sdi and hdmi input. Any suggestions , something pre-thunderbolt?

    Call forum member Eric at ADK.

  • Hardware for Mac Pro early 2008

    Hi there
    We have very old Macs at our university. We will renew them next year, however we need to hook up our magnificent video monitors to Premiere Pro CC. There is only DVI and FireWire signal out, no thunderbolt. Inputs on the monitor are HD SDI and HDMI.
    I´m sure there must be Hardware for this Mac Pro (2008) in order to connect to monitor digitally. I´m sure there were options when Adobe Premiere Pro CS3 was the current version back in 2008. Any ideas?
    Jon

    I have already connected two monitors via a DVI “hub”. So they are up and running fine.
    The hub don´t have any more outputs of any kind. Also I´m not sure if the quality would be good enough for the monitor output.
    Now I also realised that there is no HDMI input on the monitor, only HD SDI.
    Please look at photo here for info on my current graphics card.
    Best,
    Jon
    Fra: RoninEdits <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Svar til: "[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>" <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Dato: Thursday 19 February 2015 11:40
    Til: Jon Berntsen Huseby <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Emne:  Hardware for Mac Pro early 2008
    Hardware for Mac Pro early 2008
    created by RoninEdits<https://forums.adobe.com/people/RoninEdits> in Hardware Forum - View the full discussion<https://forums.adobe.com/message/7209429#7209429>

  • I have a late 2008 white macbook.  I have a mini dvi to hdmi adapter, and a hdmi cord.  My cannot get my MB to detect an external monitor.  Nothing happens when plugged in.  Also, my display settings does not have an option for mirroring or arrangment tab

    I have a late 2008 white macbook.  I have a mini dvi to hdmi adapter, and a hdmi cord.  My cannot get my MB to detect an external monitor.  Nothing happens when plugged in.  Also, my display settings does not have an option for mirroring or arrangment tab

    Yeah, I'm having the same exact problem - It seems that the thunderbolt minidisplay port is only able to output the analog VGA signal, not the digital signal to support DVI and HDMI. This is a bug that came up after installing 10.7.1. I bought my macbook air with 10.7 on it, upgraded it to 10.7.1 as soon as I got it, so I have never been able to use hdmi or dvi with my macbook air. This is an extremely frustrating problem for me, I used HDMI on a daily basis with my PC. I have spent many hours at the genius bar running diagnostic tests so Apple can get as much information as possible to create a fix for this problem. I have been emailing tech support for 3 or so weeks now, they keep saying that they are working on a fix and it should be out soon, but 10.7.2 has come and gone and I still have no HDMI functionality with my MacBook Air!

  • I have a Samsung HD TV and I purchased a Mini Display port to HDMI Adapter today. For some strange reason I get no display on my HD tv. I even tried switching a few HDMI cables and nothing popped up. I made sure my computer was updated. Help pls

    I have a Samsung HD TV and I purchased a Mini Display port to HDMI Adapter today. For some strange reason I get no display on my HD tv. I even tried switching a few HDMI cables and nothing popped up. I made sure my computer performed all software updates, and I even tried calling Apple Support. They just told me to keep trying different hdmi cables and see if anything pops up. Does anybody know what the problem is? My HDMI cable is from "rocketfish" also my display port is too.

    You may have the screen refresh rate set higher than the TV is generally able to track reliably. It may be able to get there most times, but occasionally loses sync because it is out of its nominal range.
    I suggest you sit down with the manual for the TV and find out what resolutions at what refresh rates it intends to support through VGA, and make sure your screen settings are near (or below) those limits.

  • I have a 15' Macbook Pro, mid 2010 running Mavericks. I want to upgrade the hardware by increasing the RAM to 8GB and replacing the HD for a SDD one. What would be the best way to install mavericks on the new HD? I have the original OS X CD.

    I have a 15' Macbook Pro, mid 2010 running Mavericks. I want to upgrade the hardware by increasing the RAM to 8GB and replacing the HD for a SDD one. What would be the best way to install mavericks on the new HD? I have the original OS X CD.
    From what I read, I have 2 choices: 1. to install OSX and then upgrade to Mavericks, but I'm not sure if this would be possible (to upgrade directly from OSX to Mavericks); and 2. to use a software called Super Duper.
    I wouldn't like to have to use a third party software to do this, so the question is: is there a better way to install directly the Mavericks not having to use a third party software?

    Install the new drive in the computer.
    Install the old drive in an external USB or Firewire enclosure.
    Boot the computer from the Recovery HD on the external drive.
    Use Disk Utility to partition and format the new internal drive.
    Clone your external drive to the internal drive.
    How to replace or upgrade a drive in a laptop
    Step One: Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
    Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list.  In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive.  If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
    If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
    Step Two: Remove the old drive and install the new drive.  Place the old drive in an external USB enclosure.  You can buy one at OWC who is also a good vendor for drives.
    Step Three: Boot from the Recovery HD on the external drive.  Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager appears.  Select the icon for the Recovery HD then click on the downward pointing arrow button.
    Step Four: New Hard Drive Preparation
      1. Open Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
      2. After DU loads select your new hard drive (this is the entry with the
          mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of
          the drive in DU's status area.  If it does not say "Verified" then the drive
          is failing or has failed and will need replacing.  Otherwise, click on the
          Partition tab in the DU main window.
      3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from
          the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended
          (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to
          GUID  then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and
          wait until the process has completed.
      4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the
          drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main
          window.
      5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the
          Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to
          return to the Erase window.
      6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several
          hours depending upon the drive size.
    Step Five: Clone the old drive to the new drive
      1. Using Disk Utility still opened.
      2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
      3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
      4. Check the box labeled Erase destination.
      5. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the
          Destination entry field.
      6. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to the
          Source entry field.
      7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
    Destination means the new internal drive. Source means the old external drive.
    Step Six: Open the Startup Disk preferences and select the new internal volume.  Click on the Restart button.  You should boot from the new drive.  Eject the external drive and disconnect it from the computer.

  • I have a late 2008 MacBook I would like to watch movies on my tv from.  I bought the HDMI cables and the one to use for audio also but I still don't get any sound.  What am I doing wrong?

    I have a late 2008 MacBook I cant get to send sound to my TV when I try to watch movies.  I have bought the HDMI cable and audio connectors but still no sound.  What am I doing wrong?

    Hi Maryan,
    Open System Preferences > Displays > select the window for you external monitor > click on the Arrangement tab and check the box next to Mirror Displays. It may be slightly different in Lion, but the idea is the same.

  • Is there any limitation of firmware or hardware for QoS configuration (4400 controller & 1252 AP's)

    Hi Experts,
    Before proceeding for adding AP model 1131 and 1252 into my set-up , I need to know whether any limitation of firmware or hardware for QoS configuration in wireless set-up .
    I have 4400 controller and 1130 & 1250 AP models.

    Hi Vinod,
    Since you have 4400 controllers, you can run upto WLC 7.0.x code. Refer this for more detail
    http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/td/docs/wireless/compatibility/matrix/compatibility-matrix.html
    there is no specific limitation to 1131/1252 AP model as such, everything is WLC software dependent.
    From later software 7.4.x,7.6.x,8.x, lots of improvement for QoS configuration & bandwidth control, but since your controller is old hardware, you cannot have those latest features.
    here is a reference post on how QoS works in wireless environment
    http://mrncciew.com/2012/11/28/understanding-wireless-qos-part-1/
    HTH
    Rasika
    *** Pls rate all useful responses ****

  • HDMI cable and wireless router for bluray

    Hi. We just purchased a Samsung Blu-ray player, model BD-C 6500. We want to connect it to our 46" samsung LED TV  and stream movies from Netflix.  I
    was wondering which HDMI cable would be best to use to connect it? We also havea Netgear Rangemax router WPN824 v 2. Will it work  or will we need
    to get a different one? 

    Quote That information is not 100% accurate. Although the "Hz" of the cable may not change, not every HDMI can support 'ethernet' passthrough or 3D capabilities. - - - - - But not every TV supports it either. Even cheap cables like those from Blue Jeans cable can and do support ethernet passthrough. I am not sure that 3D capabilities has anything at all to do with the cable. It certainly does not require greater bandwidth or greater overhead, or it cannot be broadcast on a single channel. Also, cheaper cables will have cheaper materials which means the tips can break more often. - - - -- - - Completely irrelevant. With proper care, cheaper cables will not have a higher incidence of "broken tips". I have never had a broken tip on any of my HDMI cables. Having a gold plated tip does allow for a more secure connection along with better soldering. - - - - - Actually, unless the device they plug into has gold plated connectors, then using a gold plated cable can actually promote corrosion in high humidity areas due to the dielectric effect. I know this...I live in Hawaii. I do not use gold plated cables unless the devices at both ends have gold plated connectors. Again, this is high school level stuff. And thirdly, cheaper cables tend to be "thinner" which typically means less insulation or 'shielding'. This ofcourse is a negative side effect when running cables longer lenghts. Can you cite a specific example of "thinner"? "Less Insulation"? "less shielding"? You do realize that since it is a digital signal, crosstalk is not an issue, so therefore shielding is irrelevant (except to market more expensive cables to those that do not understand the nature of HDMI protocols. You are not to blame...it is the way you are trained to believe, even though for the most part it is all hooey. If you buy something cheap, your going to get what you pay for, end of story. - - - - - - - - True. When I buy less expensive cables, I still get an HDMI cable that delivers the full HDMI signal and HDMI experience at a lower cost, allowing me to use that money to buy movies to watch. When you buy the more expensive cables, you are paying for flashier packaging, advertising, and non-features that seem to make the cable better. Perhaps you can find a knowledgeable cable technician, a broadcast engineer, or an installation specialist who are truly knowledgeable in real world use of HDMI, who are unswayed by the advertising schtick of the "super mega hyper cable" companies who will take some time and sit with you and discuss the nature of digital signals and the HDMI protocol in particular. You might actually learn something that is real and honest. Again, it is not your fault. You are trained to believe that certain cables are "better" so that you can sell cables at higher prices and lower margins. It is just the way it is done in retail. In closing, I offer you a challenge. Connect the best Blu-ray player in the store to the best display you have in the store, but connect it through an HDMI switcher. On one side, put your most expensive super mega hyper cable, and on the other put a $9 cable from the internet or wally world. Have someone secretly switch between the two cables without your knowing which is which. You will be unable to tell a difference with your eyes or your ears. Nuff said.
    If you find my post useful or informative, please click the icon below with the plus sign and star to give kudos. Thank you!

Maybe you are looking for

  • I recently moved and I got a new sim but I still use my old sim. I want to use both numbers for iMessage and FaceTime but i have absolutely no idea how to do it! please help me!

    I recently moved and I got a new sim but I still use my old sim. I want to use both numbers for iMessage and FaceTime but i have absolutely no idea how to do it! please help me! I have a macbook pro and iphone 5

  • Creation of virtual outbound delivery from MIGO.

    Hi All, Scenario - Material, packing material, virtual Goods receipt and virtual outbound delivery and PGI, and final billing. We have a scenario wherein we have a Sales Scheduling Agreement for a material is created. The requirement will be generate

  • Midlet Signing

    Hello, Questions - Is trusted third party signing enough to reach a significant amount of JSR-75 compatible mobiles, with a good user experience ? -What is the best third party for signing midlets ? - Is Manufacturer & Operator Sining feasible for a

  • 11.0.06 crashes and update don't install

    Hi, Sorry if I'm starting a new discussion if not absolutely necessary but I'm at a point where I'm a little frustrated. Can't get the support on the Adobe website which I needed. Got a call centre in England but due to bad telephone lines the suppor

  • Load-balancing in eompls

    hy guys, i read a previous post regarding how the load-balancing is done for eompls. someone says that the inner label (vc label) is responsable for this. sincerely, if someone wants to explain me much deep how this works, it will be very appreciate.