Max stable capacity on this board

Regarding the powersupply for the CPU, what is the max theoretical GHz you can run this motherboard at, giving that you are running on standard vcore?
My first 875Fis2R board lasted 2weeks before dying, and at the speed im running at now, I'm sure it will happen again.
Is is it possible to change some capacitors here and there to get a more stable system on high frequencies? And will warranty void if I do so
I have paid good for this cooling system, and I don't want a poor motherboard keeping me from 4GHz!!!11

Well; As you know, the Northwood P-4 is at the end of it's Run at 3.2 GHZ..Now the Prescott P-4 is picking up where the Northwood left off, and from what I have read the Prescott will remain at the 478 Pin Count for at least up to 4.0 GHZ, then there is supposed to be a Pin Revision to 770 pins, MSI already has said that thier i865PE and i875P Motherboards are going to support the Upcoming Prescott P-4 (and they say up to 3.6 GHZ), but MSI does not know how high of a Clock speed that Intel will go before switching from the 478 Socket to the new socket..So I think that your are quite safe in your expectations of 4.0 GHZ....As far as the MOSFETT's are concerned MSI, ASUS, ABIT, GIGIBYTE, have taken steps to make sure that the Output transistors (MOSFETTS) have been tested and will be able to handle the Upcoming Power Specs. of the Prescott CPU...Read This> http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=NTY1 ...........I know for a fact that my ABIT IC7-MAX3 will be ready, as it has a 5 Phase Power MOSFETT, but this board was also built After they had a Prescott CPU in thier Lab to build the Board around..But this article says with certainty that both the MSI i865PE and the i875P, will also be ready...........Sean REILLY875

Similar Messages

P6N Diamond+Quad core overclocking - Help if you have this board.

Am having some issues trying to get even the simplest overclock on this board plus some wierd stuff it is doing with ram settings. Can't get linked setting to work.
I've read all of the 680i tutorials. Nvidia, XS, HardOCP..............I've read Toms Hardware pre-release review. Basically anything I could find..............
Chip is running cool and rock stable at stock settings with either bios.

ok lads - here we go...
it's been a very interesting and revealing morning for me - spent the last 5 hours tweaking the bios, then testing, then tweaking, then testing. these are the results:
note 1: unless otherwise stated, all settings are 'optimised defaults' with 'CE1' disabled (go into 'advanced BIOS features/cpu feature' and press F4 if you can't find it) and 'spread spectrum' disabled.
note 2: unless otherwise stated, 'system clock mode' is set to manual and the memory is set to 800 and timings are on auto.
note 3: default voltages are used unless stated
note 4: each prime95 test is carried out for 5 minutes only
note 5: i'm using a thermaltake kandalf vd4000 case with built-in liquid cooling system. my water-cooled cpu temp in the bios is 19oC (can't seem to get the degree sign using the tip at the top of this page)
note 6: cpu is q6600. memory is 2x1gb xms2 dominator pc2-8500. vga is gainward 8800gtx. psu is hiper 5th gen type-r 770w. bios version is 1.2.
note 7: core temp 0.95 was used for establishing cpu temperature. (apparently, this gives default readings that are 15oC higher than the actual relevant cpu temperature).
test 1 (stock cpu setting):
fsb set to 1066
=2.4ghz
error-free prime95 for 5 minutes: YES
max load temp: 46
test 2:
fsb set to 1166
=2.62ghz
error-free prime95 for 5 minutes: YES
max load temp: 47
test 3:
fsb set to 1206
=2.71ghz
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 47
decided to try pumping some more volts into the cpu to see if i could get it stable in prime95
test 4:
fsb set to 1206
=2.71ghz
cpu voltage increased by 0.0125
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 47
test 5:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.0250
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 47
test 6:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.0375
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 48
test 7:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.0500
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 48
test 8:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.0625
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 49
test 9:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.0750
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 49
test 10:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.0875
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 49
test 11:
as above, but cpu voltage increased by 0.1000
error-free for 5 minutes: NO (4 cores failed within 30 seconds)
max load temp: 50
this took me to the recommended limit for voltage for the q6600, which is 1.375v.
it seems i can safely say that changing the cpu voltage makes absolutely no difference at all.
still keeping the fsb at 1206, the next thing i tried was increasing the NB voltage to 1.275v and keeping the cpu voltage at +0.1000
these settings still couldn't get prime95 to run error-free for more than a few seconds.
keeping the fsb at 1206, cpu voltage at +0.1000 and the NB voltage at 1.275, the next thing for me to try was increasing the 'fsb vtt voltage' by 2%
SUCCESS!!! SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!!
using the above settings, prime95 ran error-free for 5 minutes.
my next problem was trying to work out which of the above voltages settings was the kicker.
keeping the fsb at 1206, i returned the cpu voltage back to default and kept the nb voltage at 1.275 and the 'fsb vtt voltage' at 2%.
SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!!
prime95 ran error-free for 5 minutes.
next test was keeping the fsb at 1206, the cpu voltage at default. i also returned the nb voltage to default but left the 'fsb vtt voltage' at 2%.
SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!!
prime95 error-free for 5 minutes again!
it seems like the vtt voltage is an important player in getting the system to appear stable.
the next test, i set fsb to 1254 giving 2.82ghz.
keeping all voltages on default except the 'fsb vtt voltage' which i kept at 2%.
prime95 produced errors again, pretty much within the first few seconds...
the next test, i kept fsb at 1254, with default voltages, but the 'fsb vtt voltage' was increased to 4%
SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!! SUCCESS!!
prime95 ran error-free for 5 minutes.
all of a sudden, it seems that regardless of the other settings, the only voltage that matters is the 'fsb vtt voltage'
next test, fsb was set to 1278=2.87ghz.
vtt voltage was 4%
prime95 ran error-free for 5 minutes: YES
cpu temp during load: 49o
next test, fsb was set to 1302=2.92ghz
vtt voltage was 4%
prime95 ran error-free for 5 minutes: YES
cpu temp: 49o
next test, fsb was set to 1326=2.98ghz
vtt voltage was 4%
prime95 ran error-free for 5 minutes: YES
cpu temp: 49o
next test, fsb was set to 1350=3.03ghz
vtt voltage was 4%
CPU FAILED TO POST AND REQUIRED BIOS RESET
next test, fsb was kept at 1350=3.03ghz
vtt voltage increased to 6%
booted fine, but computer froze during prime95
next test, fsb was kept at 1350
vtt voltage was increased to 8%
again, pc froze during prime95
next test, fsb was kept at 1350
vtt voltage was increased to 12%
computer failed to post, requiring reset.
12% was as far as i was comfortable going to, as i'm not sure of the consequences of having this set too high.
it seemed i had reached the limit as far as pushing the fsb goes.
i returned the vtt voltage back to 4% and lowered the fsb to 1334 (i had a hunch that anything over 1333 would give me problems). again, this failed to post.
i set the vtt voltage to 6% - again, it failed to post.
i set the vtt voltage to 8% and again, it failed to post.
i lowered the fsb JUST ONE NOTCH to 1333 and set the vtt voltage to 4%.
this gives an exact cpu speed of 3.000ghz
i'm not sure if this is a coincidence or not, but this setting posted, booted and ran prime95 for 5 minutes without any errors.
it then ran prime95 for over an hour with no errors.
curiously, i set the fsb back up a notch to 1334 and it refused to post, requiring a bios reset.
as i said, it seems 1333 is the absolute limit that i can set this board to in my system configuration. now i don't know about you, but the fact that 1333 works perfectly stable, and 1334 doesn't even post tells me that there is something not quite right with this board.
is it too much of a coincidence that the cpu/mobo hits a wall at EXACTLY 1333/333/3.0ghz?
the next thing i did was set my memory to 1066 and manually set the timings to 5,5,5,15.
coupled with my new rock solid 3.0ghz q6600, this is about as far as it is physically possible for me to push this setup and i'm more than happy with the results.
now i can't wait for the G0 stepping to see what that can do.
maybe a future bios will help with this - who knows...

Max stable CPU voltage supported by K8n Neo4 Plat.?

My vcore voltage fluctuates between 1.44v and 1.50v. In the bios I have 1.42+6.6%(see my sig). I have ran prime 95 for 24h stable, but recently I tried OCCT(a french program). The first test ran for 30min OK, the torture test froze my computer within an hour or two. My question is what is Max stable CPU voltage supported by K8n Neo4 Plat.?Because obviously when the mobo drops it to 1.44 it IS NOT ENOUGH. Difference of .06v obviously is critical for the stability. Anyway it should be 1.425+6.6%=1.519 which is nowhere near 1.44. I currently run at 36-38C idle and 45C under load. Is it a bios problem? I use 1.6 bios and I don't have any problems whatsoever.
Any opinions appreciated.
BTW tried to raise the mobo voltage at 1.55(1.50 default) but seems that there is no difference.
BIOS shows my voltages as follows:
+3.3v=3.12 to 3.15 mostly stays at 3.14 pc wizard shows 3.14, core center shows 3.22
+5.5v=4.96 to 4.99
+12v =11.96 to 12.22 core center shows 11.96, pc wizard shows 12.22

Quote from: gerasimatos on 30-September-05, 09:17:54
dont blame MSI for your financial situations. If you could afford the proper hardware then you wouldnt need to overclock and such. JMO.
I can afford the proper hardware. In fact, I bought a DFI Lanparty nF4 SLI DR to replace the defective K8N Neo4 SLI board.
As soon as the new K8N board comes back from RMA, I figure to sell it - say half off. I think for something that may or may not work as advertised, half price is fair.
And speaking of processors, these Venice chips are really phenomenal - they're just like (or maybe even better than) the good old XP1700 JIUHB chips. I still have one of those - and strangely enough, it's still running - in an MSI K7T Turbo 2 board (KT133A). That JIUHB served me well - it'd do a 500MHz overclock with no strain at all. If I had water cooling, I bet I coulda got 1 GHz out of it.
The two Venice 3200 processors I have both seem to be really good overclockers. The one that was in the rig I RMA'd is the best - right now in the new Lanparty board, I've got it running at 2.5 GHz (1:1 @ 250 MHz) with about 1.55 volts. It's idling at about 30c and only runs at about 44c under load - and the AS5 hasn't even cured yet!
That chip is gonna be one helluva overclocker!
I'll let it run at 2.5 GHz for another week or so till the AS5 has cured, then I'll see just how far I can go (without the temps getting too high). The way it's gone from this point, I think 2.7 GHz is very reasonable for a goal.
And as I think newbie222 pointed out, as long as the temps are kept reasonable, there is no actual risk to the processor.
The point I was making is that with my old, defective K8N, that would not have been possible - BECAUSE THE BOARD WAS DEFECTIVE. It was defective because the vcore did not operate up to spec (wouldn't go as high as it was advertised to) and because of the voltage fluctuations.
How would you feel if you bought a new car that was advertised as getting 24 MPG highway and it only got 17 MPG? Or if you ordered Comcast's 8 Mb/s downstream Gold Tier and only got 6 Mb/s downstream? Or if you ordered a 102 channel cable package that turned out to only have 88 channels?
It's all the same exact, precise thing.
If MSI advertises you can get a vcore of 1.7> volts then you fer damned sure better be able to get it.
The main reason people buy boards like the K8N is to overclock - it's the "enthusiast" community that the board is targeted to.
I find it hard to believe anyone would even want to buy one of these boards and not overclock. What's the point? If all someone wants is something that will run at stock speeds, then they oughta save a few bucks and buy a Dell or whatever.

BEA-000627 issue.. reached max pool capacity

I got this reached max pool capacity error msg shown below..
What is confusing to me is , how does the increment level become -ve... Shoudnt it be zero instead of -11 ?
<BEA-000627> <Reached maximum capacity of pool "aPool", making "-11" new resource instances instead of "5".>
Then a stack trace follows this error message saying
negativeArraySizeException, which is understandable becoz it is trying to increase the pool by -11.. The stack trace is shown below...
Has anyone seem anything like this ? Any thoughts ?
java.sql.SQLException: java.lang.NegativeArraySizeException
at weblogic.jdbc.common.internal.JDBCUtil.wrapAndThrowResourceException(JDBCUtil.java:209)
at weblogic.jdbc.common.internal.RmiDataSource.getPoolConnection(RmiDataSource.java:316)
at weblogic.jdbc.common.internal.RmiDataSource.getConnection(RmiDataSource.java:333)

pc cp wrote:
I got this reached max pool capacity error msg shown below..
What is confusing to me is , how does the increment level become -ve... Shoudnt it be zero instead of -11 ?
<BEA-000627> <Reached maximum capacity of pool "aPool", making "-11" new resource instances instead of "5".>
Then a stack trace follows this error message saying
negativeArraySizeException, which is understandable becoz it is trying to increase the pool by -11.. The stack trace is shown below...
Has anyone seem anything like this ? Any thoughts ?
java.sql.SQLException: java.lang.NegativeArraySizeException
at weblogic.jdbc.common.internal.JDBCUtil.wrapAndThrowResourceException(JDBCUtil.java:209)
at weblogic.jdbc.common.internal.RmiDataSource.getPoolConnection(RmiDataSource.java:316)
at weblogic.jdbc.common.internal.RmiDataSource.getConnection(RmiDataSource.java:333)Certainly it's a bug, and likely already fixed. What version of weblogic is this?
Joe

Can't get a good OC out of this board

I've been trying to get a nice OC out of this board but I don't think its going to happen. With 1.6v CPU voltage and 2.85v RAM I can't hit 10x250 or 11x230mhz.
My RAM is PC4000 Crucial Ballistix at 2.5-3-3-10 timings(stock timings for DDR500 speeds).
At 10x250 Prime95 failed after an hour and at 11x230 Prime95 failed after 16 minutes. What gives?
I'm using the 1.2 BIOS and my memory is more stable in slots 3 & 4.

You may want to have a look in the overclockers forum for help.

Bless this board. My HDV workflow 1

As I edited my 88-minute documentary over the last two months using FCP 5.0.2, I pored over the pages of this board several times a day. I was looking for tips, workarounds, and collective wisdom. For I had foolhardedly decided to edit the piece in native HDV.
Well this community got me through that painful ordeal. So I want to share what worked for me. For the most part, it's merely a synthesis of what better minds here have come up with. But I know there's a real need for a solid discussion about how to work with HDV. So I thought maybe someone might benefit from my experience.
1. WHY HDV?
- I was in the market for a new camera. I wanted to try 1080i. Sony was the only real, affordable player at the time. So I went for the Z1 (I'm a PD-150 afficianado).
2. WHY EDIT HDV?
- Until this documentary, I had downconverted everything when capturing. And it looked great. It certainly is the easier way to go. Especially if you KNOW you're going to broadcast and will have a post-production house get everything in order.
- But this time, with FCP 5.0 available, I wanted to try native HDV editing. Also, I wanted the ability to show the finished product in HDV via G5/camera output to an HD monitor or projector before finalizing for broadcast.
- Doing so also allowed me to order up 1080i graphics and see how they fit in the finished product.
- Some of the film festivals are now requiring HDCAM masters, so if I had to do things 'on the cheap,' I thought I can at least do a quick and dirty dub from HDV tape/camera to HDCAM tape.
3. EQUIPMENT
- No question, using a dual G5 made a huge difference in real time editing. Powerbook editing worked, but was a little sluggish and didn't allow me to see much in real time.
- I used Cinema Display for monitoring, which is a real cheat. There's no way I would use that for color correction though. I'm hoping to have SDI/Blackmagic etc. for my next project.
- I started out with 2 500 GB Lacie firewire drives to capture my 70 hours of footage. But they proved to be really unstable. So as soon as I had logged everything, I subclipped everything I needed and used Media Manager to copy them to a 2nd internal SATA drive. Much more efficient, much safer.
4. MIXING RESOLUTIONS ON THE SAME TIMELINE
- 20% of my footage was shot with a Sony TRV-900 camera with anamorphic adapter for true 16:9. I originally brought those SD clips into my HDV timeline. Requiring a render, and a resize each time.
- Thanks to this board, I discovered it was much easier to batch compress all my SD subclips in Compressor to uprez them to HDV. Worked like a charm in the HDV timeline afterwards.
- 1440x1080, 72 DPI for importing still images into an HDV timeline. Same thing for sequential images (animation).
5. EDITING HDV
- Fabulous and painless.
...continued...

6. BURNING HDV TO SD DVD
- It was always best to export the timeline to a self-contained Quicktime movie using "Current Settings." Much quicker than exporting directly from FCP to Compressor.
- iDVD's downconversion of an HDV Quicktime file was awful, with blocky artifacts etc.
- Using Compressor or Quicktime to downrez the HDV Quicktime file to SD, and then burning in iDVD was better. But it appeared dull, the titles looked pixellated, and I got that deinterlaced "film look" without really trying.
- My BEST solution was to use Compressor to turn the HDV Quicktime file into an SD MPEG2 file for DVDSP. But my G5 kept crashing (darkened screen, "reboot" message in several languages) a couple of hours into the compression. It was only after I used Disk Warrior on my system drive that it finally worked. I've heard that G5 memory is finicky as well, but I ran MEMTEST several times without a hitch. It doesn't help that my Quicktime file is 16 GB.
- Thanks to this board, I came across the best custom Compressor setting for HDV to SD for DVDSP. Because I'm dealing with an 88 minute feature plus 7-minute trailer for a single-sided DVD, this is what I did:
DVD: Best Quality 120 minutes 16:9. Use the Inspector to modify settings:
- VIDEO FORMAT tab Field Dominance: Bottom First
- QUALITY tab One Pass (NO VBR), Average Bit Rate 7.0, Best Motion Estimation
- GOP tab GOP Structure: "IP"
- FRAME CONTROLS "Off"
- FILTERS Check "Deinterlacing" select "Blur"; Check "Sharpen Edge" Amount "10"
Importing this asset into DVDSP, I used the MPEG2 file along with the smaller Dolby AC-3 file, discarding the larger AIFF sound file.
7. PRINT TO VIDEO
- This is the real hangup for me. I can't do it back to my Z1. It always stutters about 8 minutes into the piece.
- ScottSV from this board ( Scott SV, "FCP5 & Sony HDR-HC1 HDV Cam - Print to Video?" #1, 04:16pm Sep 17, 2005 CDT) suggested outputting the sequence to a Quicktime AIC file (custom settings 1920 x 1080, 60 FPS, top field dominant), then importing that new file into iMovie, then exporting to camera. It's a long process but it worked for me on a much smaller file. But you need tons of hard drive space and patience, and iMovie just quit on me when I tried with a 44-minute chunk of my documentary. I may go out and buy another large hard drive and try it again.
- Avid has just come out with its HDV plug-in for XPress Pro. But it only works with MT2 transport files, which are also huge. I've always had much more success with Avid when printing back to tape than with FCP. Even with SD. That said, I enjoy using FCP a whole lot more.
- I've heard that Apple is working on this HDV print-to-video issue. I hope they come up with a solution soon.
Feel free to check out the H.264 version of my movie trailer for "Independent America" at http://www.hrhmedia.com/page13/page14/page14.html. It's a fabulous codec, but as you can see, still not a flawless conversion of the original HDV file.
Hope this really long posting will be helpful to others. Special thanks to Scott SV, Max Average, Waymen, David Bogie and countless others for helping me get this project done through their feedback to this community.

How far can u Oc with this board?

Title speaks for itselve.
Mine AMD64 3000+(CG) max oc of FSB215 ([email protected]) - bios 1.1 - Corsair twinx xms 1024mb pc3200LL

I stopped messing around with it at 215x11 and 4HT with 1:1 due to being sick of reseting the BIOS all the time.
I read on this board all sorts of advice and they seem to contradict at times. Some say to not bother with stepping down the memory and to keep it 1:1 while other say to increase the FSB regardless and lower the ratio to keep the memory at stock speed (Since I have PC3200 KingstonVR type). I haven't really tried that yet because I maxed out at 235 (1:1) before it gave me the BSOD and I tested 3DMark03 around 230 with hardly any difference then my setting at the start of my post.
Some advice says to not bother relaxing memory timings since you need and want them to be as low as they can go anyway. I already have that on mine so the only thing left is to up the clock (FSB) and mess with the HT frequency multiplier.
BTW - about the HT setting? as you increase the clock what should we shoot for as the end number? is it 1600Mhz (FSB*HT freq multiplier*2???) It seemed to not make a difference in my top FSB reading wether the HT multiplier was at 4x or 2x. Not sure what is going on there.
My memory goest to DDR430 at 215 but the moment I raise above 215 it resorts to close to ~204Mhz as reported in memtest86. Would you keep it at 215 to keep the DDR430 or raise FSB to let the memory go back to DDR400?
I am new to all this so that is why my questions are many...

Tired of this board

I've had this board for about 6 months. It's not a bad board but for sure it has not been perfect either. The latest Bios 1.9 is suppose to add "stability". Were all the other versions unstable? I've had ram issues conflicts etc...
I decided to buy myself something really stable to replace it. I bought an Intel D875PBZLK FMB1.5R board. For sure this is a quality board, so far seems stable as hell. It likes my low latency ram and even has it set properly unlike the MSI. Raid works. Everything works. Isn't that the way it should be?
I see such a differance between the two. Boot time is much faster. Like I said MSI is not a bad board, I will probably keep it for a spare machine. But for sure there is a point where you have to do something. My choice for Intel was a good one.

Quote
Originally posted by vango44
Hey, does it have DOT?
I was mostly teasing ya. Actually, the Intel 875 board was one of the few I seriously considered before I bought this one. But I like to tinker too much and the lure of all the extra features and settings won me over. And I do agree with you that these 865/875 boards can be a little unwieldly at times and lots more quirks than the last computer I had(PIII). Luckily I enjoy the challenge...mostly
For me I know I chose right but I'm also glad you're happy with your new machine.

This board ROCKS!!!! and a few comments...

Just setup my K8N NEO2 Plat with the new A64 3500+ Venice and all I can say is fast, fast, fast!!!! Had to replace a failed K7N2 Delta2 Plat in a hurry and figured I would go for the gusto, this combo absolutely smokes the NFORCE2 with XP3000+ Barton AND it seems to be a bit faster than my P4 setup. Anyhow, enough with the gushing and on to the point:
When configuring the LAN, XP and my network did not like the NFORCE3 LAN, no MAC address apparently, so I disabled it and enabled the Realtek, drivers loaded automatically and all is well. I may want to use the other LAN port, so wondering about a possible fix.
Updated Realtek sound drivers through Liveupdate to the latest and lost sound, rolled back the driver and all is well again... ?
It did not come with the Firewire bracket, though I think it should.
RAM timings are set for AUTO and 1T and all is well. What's the difference between 1T and 2T. I will not be overclocking as stability is key for me.
HT frequency in the Cell Menu default is 4 and I left it that way. Don't know what this does, can anyone explain what these settings are for?
BIOS came stock at ver 1.9. I assume that there is no point in updating to 1.A unless I will be upgrading to a dual core CPU? Definitely not going to upgraqde this wonderful CPU any time soon, just wondering.
I love this board and, knock on wood, it will be trouble free for me

AK,
Welcome to the Neo2 world, glad to see that you are having fun and getting good use out of your new system.
Your Mac address was likely lost because whomever updated your board BIOS used a less than ideal BIOS modifying / updating procedure. No matter what there is no need to worry since it can easily be corrected by following the instructions in this thread. Using the Realtek LAN vice the NF Lan causes a slightly higher CPU usage. You have plenty of CPU power so you should not even notice it.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=84357.0
You have an excellent system so you will be able to run quite stable using 1T timings at stock settings. 2T would only be used to stabilized your system if you intended to do extreme overclocking. Switching to 2T vice 1T would reduce your system performance by approximately 5%. Stay at 1T...
BIOS v1.9 has received mixed reviews from users due to the MAC address issue and the fact that the USB 2.0 setting option has been left out (forgotten) of this BIOS version (v1.9). Disatisfied Neo2 plat users have either gone back to BIOS 1.8 or switched to one of the unofficial BIOS version (1A... rev...).
If you plan to use USB 2.0 peripherals you may have to do so later on. Needless to say since you have owned MSI motheboards before only flash your BIOS if you absolutely need to and then make sure that you are using an approved and reversible method. DO NOT USED LIVE UPDATE. here is a link to the Neo2 BIOS repository. Be very careful about using unofficial BIOS with permanently modded memory timings. Make sure that you try these out first using A64Tweaker to insure that they will work before flashing your BIOS. This includes rebooting your system with A64Tweaker set to re-install your modded memory timings on startup. If you run into problem soft reboot to Safe Mode and then disable A64Tweaker Startup feature. I am now using 1A3 Rev4 no temp by Syar and I like it very much. Syar has done a great job unhidding all BIOS features, including MAC address option, without introducing highly personalised memory timing changes that could de-stabilize your system. here is the link:
http://www.msi.sploitz.com/
Once again ak, welcome aboard,

This Board is for Forums Suggestions Only

Please note that this board is for feedback and suggestions regarding the Verizon Residential forums only. If you think something can be added, modifed or improved - let us know here.
If you have comments or suggestions regarding a particular Verizon service, please post it on the board covering that service. This will ensure that your comments reach the right audience. This will also allow other users to support, discuss or build on your initial idea or comment.
By posting your comments here on the Forum Feedback board, you can let us know how we can make this community better. What would you change?
We value all of your feedback and suggestions.
Your Verizon Community Team

Johathan,
If there is a way to do it, I suggest you put the heading of this thread in bold on the Feedback & Suggestions Board page, sticky it, make sure it is at the top of the list of threads on this Board, and make it permanently unread so that returning members who have read it once will read it again and hopefully pay attention to what it says.
Just my $.02 worth.
Justin
Verizon FiOS TV, Internet, and phone
IMG 1.6.0, Build 06.89
Keller, TX
Message Edited by Justin on 12-08-2008 09:57 AM

When I power up my Mac-Pro I only get a flashing file folder with a ? inside the folder. I suspect my hard drive is maxed to capacity can anyone help me as to what I should do?

When I power up my Mac-Pro I only get a flashing file folder with a ? inside the folder. I suspect my hard drive is maxed to capacity can anyone help me as to what I should do?

Whatever the problem is you no longer have a bootable system. You need to try reinstalling OS X.
Reinstall Snow Leopard without erasing the drive
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
Reinstalling Lion/Mountain Lion Without Erasing the Drive
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.

I want to install Yosemite onto an external hard drive, and keep Snow Leopard installed on the internal hard drive. I want to be able to boot from either system, depending upon circumstance (at least until Yosemite is stable). Is this possible?

iMac, Model Identifier iMac12,1 with 121.5" screen, 2.8 GHz Intel Core i7 processor, 8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 memory, 1 TB internal hard drive, running Snow Leopard 10.6.8 from internal drive.
I want to install Yosemite onto a 1 TB external hard drive (OWC) , and keep Snow Leopard installed on the internal hard drive. I want to be able to boot from either system, depending upon circumstance (at least until Yosemite is stable). Is this possible?

It is possible. I'll let you read some articles that cover the setup:
Starting from an external USB storage device (Intel-based Macs) - Apple Support
or
http://osxdaily.com/2013/06/22/boot-mac-external-drive/

At wits end with this board

I am going to try and make a long story less long but here it goes:
I finally put my board in last week and it has been one problem after another trying to get this thing to work. Initially I tried using my old windows install, but because that used software RAID on my old ASUS it didn't work. I had a backup image on an external 1394 HD. I tried imaing that back over (Drive Image 7) to the RAID array on the new board but the drivers wouldn't load correctly with it (nvraid.sys not found or something like that) After that problem I imaged it onto the 250gb SATA drive I set up as a standalone (unhooked the RAID array) the old windows install proved to be unstable and problmatic (not too huge of a suprsise) so I decided to reinstall. About halfway though the install where it asks for info (name, key etc) I had to borrow a PS2 KB/mouse from a friend because the USB ones weren't working, not a defect but anoying nonetheless (neither BIOS setting for kb/mouse made a diff). Finally get windows up and working with my USB KB/Mouse, install the mobo drivers and reboot, now windows wouldn't finsh loading, it just sat at the splash screen. Had to reboot and use "last known good configurtiong" installed the 5.10 drivers from nvidia's website, rebooted and everything appeared OK for once. Except I started getting DRIVER_IRQL_LESS_OR_NOT_EQUAL ( I think that was it) BSOD's. To add insult to injury, I tried reconnecting the 250gb SATA drive and windows sits at the splash screen for about 10 minutes before it continues loading, and you can't see that HD in windows. I decided to leave the 250gb drive connected and reinstall windows, problem is when it says "setup is starting windows" or whatever, it just sits there as well.
I am running out of ideas. This isn't my first system build, and not even the most complex but has been the most difficult. I ran memtest on the RAM and even swapped in some old PC2100 I have, didn't seem to make much of a difference. I called for an RMA today, so I can send it, which looks likely. Oh, and I haven't changed any overclocking settings, because well, I am not an OC'er
System:
MSI K8n Neo2 Plat
Winchester 3500+
Corsair "Value Select" PC3200, VS1GBKIT
2x WDC Raptors 36.7gb
1x Hitachi Ultrastar 250gb SATA
Lite-on 32x12x40 CD-RW
NEC Dual layer 16x DVD-RW
BFG Geforce 5900
Microsoft Natural PS/2 (using that while I troubleshoot)
Microsoft Explorer USB
Delll 1901FP
Any input is apreciated,
Pete

Quote from: Tiresmoke on 28-February-05, 13:02:44
It could still be the MB but let the guys exhaust possibles first. MB's rarely are the problem but they get the rapo because it is so hard to isolate them from the other componants. Better to start by isolateting everything that is not absolutely needed tem,porarily and make sure that at least nothing else is the cause. Heck I have even had a cable that stumped me for a while and I was ready to say it was a HDD or controller problem.
OK so the moral of the story is to isolate things by slimming the system down to just what is needed to test. Yes I know I already said that but this is one of the most basic tenants of Troubleshooting. Get down to basics. Do you have another Drive, Cable or power connection you can swap into that circut? Is there another HDD channel you can use to check if it is the controller.
See where we are going with this?
Hey it may still be the MB but let's find out what the Problem really is before guessing. Also note that I was with another Major MB makers board for a while. I gave up as it was not helpful. I am here because of the gang here who likes to help out. Maybe changing to something else is a bad idea even if you do need a MB swap. Just some food for thought.
The list of issues I have had has been diverse enough thus far, that I don't really see how it could be effected by anything other than the mobo and say the processor:
- I have tried swapping out the memory so I know that isn't it.
- Can't be the kb/mouse either as I have tried both ps/2 (borrowed) and the USB ones I own
- Can't be my optical drives as I was still having some of the problems the cable unplugged from the mobo
- I don't really see how it could be the HD's as they worked fine with my old board, the only diff is that this board now has 4 SATA ports. I don't know anyone that has a board with 4 sata ports so I can't try out all 3 drives at the same time.
-I don't have an extra PS that would provide nearly enough wattage or amps that my Antec does, so do suppose it could be that, the symptoms would lead me to believe otherwise.
- I suppose it could be my video card, however it never gave me probems with my old Asus so it would have to be some weird imcompatability, I am not ruling this out, but I don't have another card I can throw in to test it.
I am not against getting the kinks worked out with this build by any means but the kind of problems I am having leads me to believe that it would be the mobo, or one of the components in it. With that said I am all ears.

Can you PM someone on this board.....

Can you PM (Private Message) on this board.
Or is that function disabled. Or never existed....
Can't seem to find it.

Thanks. I figured that. Just thought I would ask. Kind of odd can't PM But OK.

What cpu can I put in this board please

Hi all
First post, here goes. I need to upgrade my cpu from Intel Core 2 duo E4300 1.8GHz to play more demanding games
for my son. cpu-z says Board is MS-7255, chipset says: P4M900/CN896/VN896/PT890
I would like to upgrade ram to 4gig and replace cpu with a;
Intel Core2 Duo Processor E6400 (2M Cache, 2.13 GHz, 1066 MHz FSB) can I do this on this board ?
Any help I would be gratefull.

Quote
I bought from Aldi 4 years ago
Aldi? that means it was included in a Medion pc? Then it's an oem board. The boards MSI (and the forum) directly supports are retail boards. If your board is from an oem pc no of the boards listed before are your board. That means could be you brick the board by flashing a bios from a retail board.
Speed difference would be minimal anyway. Core2 are outdated. The time of dual core is almost over. If you have to buy the cpu I'd rather save for a new board and cpu.

Max stable capacity on this board

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