MBP i5 2010 vs MBP i5 2011

Does anyone know if the the 2010 i5 machines or the 2011 i5 machines are more stable?
less fan noise/heat etc?
Thank you

The 2010 i5 is a midrange 15" model with dual GPUs, while the 2011 i5 is the bottom-of-the line 13" model with a single integrated GPU. It's not likely that anyone who has clearly defined his or her needs would be in doubt about which machine would be more suitable.
Stability and noise will vary a lot with any model, depending mostly on what you're doing with the computer and how sensible you are about maintaining it and avoiding half-baked software.

Similar Messages

Performance difference with my MBP 15" 2010 and the new 2011 one(gaming?)

Hey guys,
I have a 2.67 i7 2010 15" MPB(the higher end model)that I got last year. I use it for work and for college but I also like to play games on it.
I recently got an Apple newsletter as I noticed the huge performance boost of the newer models. I went to a review site and my specific model nearly doubled in benchmark scores with the newer model. That doesn't seem like something that would normally happen. It seems like a rarity thats just too good to ignore. And this summer with the semesters being over I probably will go back to full on gaming(probably Portal 2 and WoW for the summer).
My question to you is, since I can't go by the opinion of one site, what is the performance difference between the 2010 model I have and the newer 2011 one? Basically I am wondering if its worth it to sell it for several hundred dollars less than I payed for it and get the newer model now, or wait until 2012 to get the newest model then(if its going to be an even bigger difference in performance)?
Excuse my poor judgement if I'm wrong, I probably seem like a maniac for using this comp for a year and already wanting to get the newer model. Its just that a lot of sites are making it seem like my model is fodder compared to the newer ones, and if so I might not let this offer pass by.

bump for good measures!

What's the difference between MBP mid 2010 and MBP retina?

Hey
can anybody give me the main difference or if it's possible detailed of the difference between macbook pro mid 2010 15 inch and macbook pro 2013 retina display 15 inch?
thanks

Also:
The 15" Retina systems come with SSD storage instead of a hard drive.
The 15" Retina systems do NOT come with an optical (CD/DVD) drive.
The 15: Retina systems have two Thunderbolt ports and two USB3 ports.
Both come with various speed and type processors, partly overlapping. I believe the Retina tops out higher in total processing power.

MBP 15" 2010 vs MBP 13" the latest one??

Hi,
I cant decide between a pro 15 refurb and a new pro 13. There's a $200 price difference approx, but which is a bettter option? the screen size doesnt make much of a difference to me, but ive heard the new ones are noisier than the 2010 ones.. is it true? yes the noise depends on which application is running, but generally which is noisier? also, what about the backlit keyboard in the new one? 2010 doesnt have that right?.. i'll be using it mainly for school work and watching movies... and which one would have a better battery life?
any help would be appreciated..

The nVidia graphics processor is compatible with more games. The April 2010 requires the original system CDs that shipped with it, to install 10.6. The new 13" is not compatible with any version of 10.6, or older PowerPC applications made for Mac OS X, where the older machine is.
Unibody Macs started becoming commonplace in late 2008. Initially some still had removable batteries, but the shell was not as easy to separate top and bottom case as previous models. The Unibody models all offered more space for notebook hard drives than the models that preceeded them. Before the Unibody, only the 17" MacBook Pro had space for 12.5mm hard drives. The rest were relegated to 9.5mm. The Unibody also changed the trackpad to a single flat surface instead of a separate button for mouse button control. With the Unibody all MacBook Pros moved to mini-Displayport from the old DVI connectors. However, not all had audio over video yet. Your 2010 model supports audio over video and is the first to do so in the MacBook Pro lineup. No one knows if Apple will be releasing new notebooks this summer. Apple keeps such information under strict non-disclosure, and no speculation is allowed on this board. Note the lower resolution means it has less room to maneuver windows at maximum resolutions in the 13" model. An external display offers higher resolution, but the graphics chip will affect game compatibility as well as speed. And with Mountain Lion's impending release, the compatibility of older machines is questionable until Apple releases those specs.

MBP Late 2010, How can I install Win7 Boot Camp using External Optical Driv

Hello:
I have a new MBP purchased in February. It's not the 2011 model. I replaced the Optical drive with an SSD drive and put the optical drive in an external enclosure. The Optical drive works great, reads, writes, etc. My Windows 7, Pro 64bit DVD works also, tested on a PC.
I use the Boot Camp assistant to create a partition. It them reboots and never starts up from the optical drive. I get an Apple logo alternating with a stop sign.
I have got back to OS X by starting with the Option key and choosing my OS X volume.
I tried booting to the DVD by using the option key, that did not work. I then choose the EFI option which allowed me to hit any key and appeared to boot from the external optical drive. Windows setup screen came up and I hit enter to start the file loading process. It eventually stopped when the progress bar was all the way across the screen. Then nothing.
Questions {Please give definitive answers, not guesses, thanks :)}
1) Is it possible to setup a boot camp Windows installation without an internal optical drive? Yes/No.
2) If yes, how?
3) I see the rEFIt utility has helped some but I read mixed reports. Will this help me boot and run Windows setup from an external optical drive? I don't want to install it if it's not known to be a certain fix.
4) Is my only options to reinstall the optical drive?
I chatted to OWC the vendor that sells the bracket. They had no idea how to install a Windows BC partition without an internal drive.
I am seriously discouraged by what seems to be Apple wanting to control everything. I had a Mac Pro and Air book in my future but now, it's on hold.
Thanks in advance,
Kevin

I tried what you are doing with a 2007 MBP, and could not get any Windows CD s to boot from an external optical drive, firewire or USB.
I think this is fundamental to Windows which won't boot from an external USB drive either even on a Windows machine (although I believe there may be complex ways of achieving this). I don't think this is Apple trying to control the world.
I ended up taking the MCE Optibay out and putting the original optical drive back in.
Just possible that something has changed between a 2007 MBP and 2010 MBP, but I doubt it.
If you want the second internal HD, you have two options:-
1. Put the Apple optical back in, install Windows, then take out the optical and refit the SSD. The external optical will still be able to install windows apps and data etc, just not boot any windows install CDs or utilities (like Paragon rescue disks). You will not be able to do a Windows repair install without refitting the optical.
2. Parallels, which has come a long way in the last two years. I am 99% certain that Parallels will install from an external optical.
Message was edited by: Mike Boreham
Message was edited by: Mike Boreham
Message was edited by: Mike Boreham

Mid 2010 17" MBP video problems

I have a mid 2010 17" MBP that has been having the same video issues as the 2011 MBP But, I guess im out of luck getting mine repaired?

As I said any brand will work just as well as any other brand, so the brand is irrelevant which you buy. All types of RAM are known to work. None any better than any other. This includes whatever brands Apple uses. As long as the RAM has a lifetime warranty and you buy from a vendor with a good return policy then you are in good shape.
If you look for the research you will find that tests of different brands of RAM demonstrated that the brand is unimportant when choosing a product.
I've never purchased brand name RAM in over 20 years for more than 30 Macs I've owned, and I've never had a problem. I happen to purchase mine from Data Mem.

15" MBP Mid-2010 (6,2) SMC 1.7 Broke my MBP

Hi All,
My beloved 15" Mid 2010 MacBook Pro is not well and is sitting on life support and is only barely amongst the living. On the 23rd Feb 2013 I noticed the SMC 1.7 firmware update in my AppStore App (this firmware was released on the 13th of Feb if I can recall correctly) and unfortunately I clicked install.
The update started to install and then stated that my Battery should be charged (it was 100%) and power plugged in (it was) and requested a reboot to which I clicked yes. Started rebooting and installing the firmware and rebooted once or twice automatically and then after the final reboot, screen black and no Apple Power boot sound. I left it for 5mins and then thought ok, maybe its powered down. Pressed the Bower button and all I could hear was the CD-Rom powering and no display and no sound. I tried the PRAM reset, SMC reset but nothing. The following day I took it to our only Apple Center (Live in Windhoek,Namibia) in the Country. The next day they phoned and said that my Logic Board is faulty. I told them that my MBP was perfect until the stupid SMC update. They told me that I can leave a kidney and a peace of my liver as for the repair costs will be something like US$900 or I could buy a second hand Logic Board for something like US$500.
This is a no go for me as for all was fine up until the SMC update came through. As for I had nothing to loose now anymore, I opened the MBP and removed the Battery and with the power cord disconnected and holding the Power Button for a couple of seconds and while holding the Power Button, connecting the power cord and after a few seconds releasing the Power Button again, my MBP started up. Problem now is that my Fans run 100% and the keyboard backlight is dead and the battery does not charge nor is seen by the MBP. I can now switch it off an back on and my MBP will power up and boot into OSX. If I do a SMC reset (holding shift control option while pressing power button), I am back where I started - MBP not power on, but battery charges again etc. Doing the whole battery removal again with power button pressing and only then connecting the power cord, it starts again.
After booting into OSX, I had a look at my system profiler and now see that the SMC version is 1.70f6 and as per this page http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1237 , my version should have flash 1.58f17 - Seems like there was a bug in Apple's SMC 1.7 Firmware code it it thought that my 15"MBP was a 17"MBP and now my SMC does not talk propperly with my hardware it seeems. I maild the Apple Guys here in Windhoek about my findings and asked them to get in contact with the Apple Geniouses overseas to find out if they could downgrade the SMC again or if they have a fix, but they don't want to help and just sayed I must have a look on www.apple.com/support and downloads and search for my SMC version and install.
That does not work as for the packages just say its not for my version - well my version is not for my MBP!
Is there maybe somebody that can help me or should I just throw my MBP away, of maybe wait 2 years in hope that another SMC version will come out that will load the propper SMC code onto my MBP? Please Guys and Girls out there - any manual way maybe of forcing a SMC firmware downgrade or reapplying the propper code of version 1.7?
Please and keeping fingers crossed.
Mark

Ok, it has now been three months since the last SMC 1.7 firmware update broke my mid-2010 15” MacBook Pro and having had it at two different Apple “Certified” technical centers and both told me that there is nothing that Apple can do except for replacing the Logic Board for something like US$ 500. I was not going to pay that amount for a 2010 MacBook to have its LogicBoard replaced so I unfortunately went out and bought a new MacBook Pro last month. Why unfortunately ............. BECAUSE I MANAGED TO FIX MY OLD MBP :-)
As of yesterday, I personally see a Apple “Genius” on the same level as the Petrol Attendants here in Africa that fill up your car! They know you need fuel to be able to drive your car, but that is where their knowledge or drive to figure something out stops. Ok, I am still very upset of having to fork out so much money for nothing. And yes, I do not like Apple personnel anymore, but I cannot live without my Apple machine (that is why I bought another when my old one was thought of being pushing up daisies).
I only managed to do this as for I had a brick lying around and I could not live with the idea that nothing can be done by recovering or downgrading the SMC firmware except for replacing the LogicBoard. I can also not imagine that Apple Personnel do NOT have a low level firmware recovery tool for the MBP 2010 and above models.
Ok, how did I fix it? By pure luck and by putting 1 and 1 together and getting 11 and not two :-)
If you happen to have a SMC firmware update that went bad on your machine, in my case the SMC 1.7 has three models SMC updates in one file and it loaded the wrong version onto my MacBook Pro, you can try the following:
Symptom:
MacBook Pro does not want to power up. You can only hear the CDRom making some noise and screen stays black and MBP powers off again.
Do this only if there is no other way around and when our of Warranty. Do this at your own risk.
The Fix:
Disconnect power
Open MBP and disconnect/remove the battery - close the back cover again
While power is still disconnected, press and hold the power button for about 5 seconds and then while pressing and holding the power button, connect the power cable to the MBP.
If you are lucky, your MBP will now power up with the fans blazing at 100% and keyboard backlight will be off. This seems to be a recovery emergency mode or something. If you MBP did not power up, try again. If your MBP does not power up then you have a different problem and don’t need to continue the following steps.
Boot you OSX and go onto the Internet and Download the right SMC firmware version for your MBP from: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1237
Mount/Open the .dmg file and copy out the “Firmware”.pkg file.
Use Pacifist or the command line to extract the content of the .pkg file.
In my case the Apple SMC update had three models firmware in the .pkg file and the correct one for the Mid-2010 15” model was in the folder SMC18 or something. Find your correct model firmware for your MBP and copy out the following two files: SmcFlasher.efi and 2010MBP15.smc (the 2010MBP15.smc will be different for other MBP models)
Copy those two files onto the OSX disk drive to a location that you can remember like /User/username/Dowloads/smc or where ever.
Google and search for rEFIt . This is a boot loader app the will take over the boot process when you start up your MBP to enable you to go into a shell utility. Read up on how to install and how to activate the refit utility. When installed and enabled, the next time you reboot your MBP you will see the utility start up before your OSX boots.
If you see the rEFIt utility start after you rebooted the MBP, use the arrow on your keyboard and select shell and press enter. The shell.efi utility will start to boot in a “DOS” like window and after you see something where it wants to configure or setup something, just press ESC to cancel that.
After the util booted, you need to first change to your internel disk with the command “ fs1:” that is F S ONE Colon then Enter, standing for filesystem 1
Now you can change to the folder to where you copied the two firmware files like :
cd Users
cd username
cd Downloads
cd smc
There are different ways of going to the folder or find the place where you put the files.
After finding the folder with the two files you can start the update process.
First need to get the SMC into the right state
SmcFlasher.efi -reset 1
Your MBP fans should now quiet down.
Lets Flash :-)
SmcFlasher.efi -force -LoadApp 2010MBP15.smc -norestart
Your SMC should now be flashing with the right version. Once done, power down the MBP. Power the MBP back on and do a SMC reset and all should be fine now. You can now connect the battery again and start using your MBP.
Hope this helps somebody. No Warranty and this is done AT OWN RISK!

MBP mid 2010 - 15" 2,4Ghz (Battery Problem)

Hi guys.
I have a MBP mid 2010. My battery wont last more that 4.30 hours.
I have tried more than enough times to test' it.
Last Night with fully charged battery I was able to get 4.40 Hours.
Bluetooth OFF
Low monitor brightness
Low keyboard illumination
Air Port was on.
Basically web browsing and 4 or 5 youtube videos.
Did not make any software instalation or updates.
4.30 hours its just to low.
BTW it as 37 full charges
My work laptop wich is a Dell Latitude E6400 with a 9cell battery I get more than 5 hours. And it as way more full charge cycles.

Certainly not... but I'd rather source a complete antiglare clamshell lid and slap it on myself thus upgrading the machine, as long as I know I wouldn't have to replace the logic board as well... I've done plenty of surgery on notebooks, from removing a stuck business-card shaped CD from a 12" PowerBook G4 (requiring *complete* disassembly of the machine) to swapping ThinkPad T61 motherboards into T60 chassis creating a 15" 4:3 IPS FrankenPad which can take 8GB of ram... so I can handle swapping a display.
Local apple store hasn't told me clearly whether or not it's possible, just that they will only replace it with the original screen...
I can only find one logic board part # for a 2.4GHz mid-2010 15" MBP, which suggests to me that upgrading the screen should be no problem, but I'd love to hear from someone who's done it or can give a definitive answer as to whether or not it's possible...

Can I system restore a purchased mbp mid 2010 but keep the upgraded OS?

I purchased a used MBP mid 2010 and had the seller meet me at the apple store. After I verified the computer was not stolen I asked to have it factory wiped, but they said I needed an appointment. Now I've read directions on this forum on how to restore it myself, is it the same technique they use in the store? Can I restore this machine and keep mavericks or must it be restored to the original OS?

fastcash124,
when Mavericks is downloaded from the Mac App Store, it is non-transferable; the seller should have wiped it from the internal drive before selling it to you. Once you’ve done a clean reïnstallation of Snow Leopard and run Software Update to get it to Mac OS X 10.6.8, you can then download and install your own (non-transferable) copy of Mavericks from the Mac App Store.

MBP early 2010 EFI update, external display no longer functioning

I just updated my MBP early 2010 to EFI 2.6 and now my external display (U2711 connected via displayport) doesnt display anything anymore. (exactly right after restart without touching anything)
The monitor tries to show something right after boot but then goes into power saving mode. It worked perfectly the second I updated.
Any ideas? I already resetted PRAM/NVRAM and I could connect the display successfully by way of HDMI so it may have something to do with the resolution (2.560 x 1.440 (WQHD) or displayport.
- Lennix

This solved my problem: http://macosx.com/tech-support/mac/where-are-display-settings-stored/18326.html
bobw wrote:
Hi Tony
First dealmac, now here
Try trashing these files
~/Library/Preferences/ByHost/
com.apple.windowserver.0030654fec7a.plist
and
com.apple.preference.displays.000a27e3cb12.plist
Bobw - Macosx.com Tech Support

Has anyone worked out how to fix screen flicker on MBP late 2010 running snow leopard?

Hey, I have a MBP late 2010 (MacBookPro6,2) running Snow Leopard 10.6.8 and I'm having trouble with external screens. They work fine 70% percent of the time but the rest of the time there is intermittent flickering. This I have determined is a something with the computer and not the screen as other computers work on the screens without fault and the problem occurs on multiple screens when using the same laptop. This is a video of the flickering, http://youtu.be/vvAlhDQD7iw . I think it might be something in Snow Leopard as the problem does not persist when I'm using bootcamp. I think the flickering might have started after one of the Snow Leopard updates (10.6.4 maybe?) but this is not definate. I've had this problem for at least the last year but with a ramp in university work this semester this problem is really starting to be annoying. I tried turning off "Automatic graphics switching" and this had no effect whatsoever. The graphics card is a NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M. I had a look for updated drivers from NVidia but these would not install saying the system was incompatible. I have seen similar problems on here and other places but either they have not had a solution or have had a solution which did not fix the problem for me. Anyhelp would be great, specially if Apple would tell me how to fix it.
Regards Richard

Thanks Guys, I didn't try the different display settings as this wouldn't affect multiple screens (and when other computers are plugged in they use the same frequencies). I did try the update posted above but unfortunately this hasn't worked. So I decided to bite the nail and reinstalled Snow Leopard on top of the previous installation (ie without erasing the HD) and then updating it. It seems to be running better so may have been a problem with one of the updates. I'll report back if the flickering comes back though.

2010 i5 MBP USB Ports Not The Same? Griffin iMic Issue

I have a 2010 15" i5 MBP. I got one of the white iMics and it works fine on the port thats closest to the screen. However, when I plug it in to the port that's closer to the SD slot, it doesn't work. Under the audio settings screen, I see the iMic under Input, and the slider is to the right, but the VU meter doesn't register anything. However, when it's in the USB port by the power adapter, it works as it should.
I have read that certain model MBPs have USB ports that are not the same, and some people have problems with programs like Serato when it's plugged into the front port. Traktor and Serato have even mentioned that on the MBP there is one "good" port and one "bad" port.
Curious if anyone else noticed this. Again, it seems to only affect 2010 i5 MBPs.

Hi WebBrowser2,
As I understand your query its not a single doubt you are having at all, actually it’s a bunch of multiple doubt you are carrying here in your mind allied to Mac Book Pro (USB Ports are not working). There might be various reasons behind- not working of USB ports in Mac Book Pro, as you already had searched out various ways to fix all your issues. A few months ago, I faced the same issue as my USB port was suddenly stopped to respond, then I also tried to find various ways to get rid of this issue, and I found an informative blog link which has fixed this issue and make me tension free.
For more information visit at- http://www.olmtopsts.com/blogs/when-macbook-pro-usb-ports-not-working.html
And I am hoping- it will assist you in the same way as it assists me.

MBP Mid 2010 screen glitch on OS X Lion

I wish i can show you a picture but the glitch happens so quick i cant take a screen shot. But what it is basically for like a second it shows the desktop image over google chrome when i used it. It doesnt show it completely. Its only a portion of the screen and it has like black squares or something on it. Anyone else having the same issue? It's really weird. Maybe it's just google chrome that has the issue. And also when im watching videos like on netflix. Maybe it has something to do with the adobe flash issues that have some up due to OS X Lion update.

Same here, I'm running Lion on the mid-2010 13" MBP and get similar issues. Recently I got similar problem with Adium as well, but mostly Chrome. I think this is a graphics driver issue.
The 2010 MBPs were running 32-bit kernel in 10.6 and now they run a 64 bit kernel by default. I'm thinking of rebooting into 32 bit mode and running it like this for a few days to see whether the graphics issues will persist.
If you want to try it yourself, reboot the computer and hold the 3 and 2 buttons on the keyboard to boot the 32 bit kernel. After you boot start up Activity Monitor and check "kernel_task", in the "Kind" column it should say "Intel" and NOT "Intel (64 bit)"

My macbook pro's screen constantly goes dim. I have set the energy saver settings for battery to 7 mins but it goes dim if the period of inactivity is less than 7 mins. Please help. MBP 13" OSX 10.6.8 (2011)

My macbook pro's screen constantly goes dim. I have set the energy saver settings for battery to 7 mins but it goes dim even if the period of inactivity is less than 7 mins. Please help. MBP 13" OSX 10.6.8 (2011)

Doesn't sound like it. It sounds like you're being logged-off.
Does your Mac go through the complete Restart cycle -- black screen, gray and/or blue screen momentarily, startup chime, etc?
If you're not sure, do a Restart just to watch the process; the next time the problem occurs, see if it's the same.
You need to know which it is, as these will have very different causes, and different places to look for a solution.

What screw size do I need for the HDD data cable in 15" MBP (mid-2010)?

In what turned out to be the most frustrating night of my life, I decided to upgrade my mid-2010 15" MBP from the factory 256GB HDD to a 1TB drive. All was well until the ultra-cheap internal screws stripped, which I have heard is a big problem. I finally got the mounts out with a little force, and then accidentally tore the HDD data cable.
So when I tried to unscrew the small screws with precision and care to replace the data cable, those screws ALSO stripped. I managed to get one out, but the other one was stuck, and even the Genius at Apple said they couldn't do anything for me because their methods of extraction could possibly ruin my upper case.
So I ended up just cutting the rest of the HDD cord around the last remaining stuck screw. I've included a picture below, the screw that remains is the one with the red circle around it.
So the real question: I lost the other screw, so I have no idea what size it is and if I can buy it from a local hardware or electronics store, or is it something I will need to special order?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Signed,
Screwed by a simple harddrive replacement

Hey Courcoul, thanks for your response. I saw that they have the screw set, but I want to avoid paying $60 for the whole set when all I need is the two tiny ones. Sure, I could keep the rest as spares, but I think I've learned my lesson about messing with the internals.
Actually, it's out of stock so I couldn't buy it if I wanted

MBP i5 2010 vs MBP i5 2011

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