Mega 180 CPU support

Hi,
I would like to know if the latest AMD Sempro (socket A) 3000 would be supported by the Mega 180 as this model with a L2 512 is not listed in the MSI site.
The reference of the CPU is SDA3000DUT4D.
Many thanks in advance for your advise.

if it is a 333FSB CPU (which i believe it is) then it should work
you might just find it shows as 'Unknown Processor' if you're unlucky

Similar Messages

  • Mega 180 CPU and memory

    Hi,
    I am just beginning to assemble a MEGA 180, and I'd need some help regarding the components.
    1) I will NOT use on-board video, so using 400 MHz RAM modules will be fine. Am I right? Do I have to change any jumper settings or the default BIOS settings because of that?
    2) Can I use a 3200+ CPU with 333 MHz without any problems? The official MSI info is that 3000+ is the maximum, but there were some references that 3200+ also can be used, if it is the 333 MHz version. Is it right? Did MSI "officially" admit this?
    3) Unfortunately, 333 MHz version of 3200+ is very difficult to find, most retailers have only the 400 MHz version. What should I do to make my system work with this CPU? Need some jumper setting change, and some BISO  mods? What to do exactly? I'm not an experienced modder by far, so a detailed guide would be much appreciated.
    Thanks in advance for your help!
    Coix

    as far as i'm aware, the nforce2 chipset used in the mega 180 mobo only supports up to 333mhz FSB
    yes, an XP3200+ would work but only if it was the FSB333 version, if you can't get hold of one then an XP3000+ would be just as good, there's only a couple of hundred mhz difference in speed anyway, which you wouldn't notice
    and i would suggest sticking with DDR333 (PC2700) memory too, there's no point having faster memory if it unstables things, again the speed difference isn't visibly noticeable, make sure you buy two sticks of the same type and brand and run as dual channel for best performance - i recommend crucial, samsung or kingston, all have worked fine in msi boards i have used before

  • "Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

    Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work.  I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it.  I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I).  I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any.  Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
    1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area.  It's already optimal.
    2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins.  There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason.  Aluminum is no good.  Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect.  First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me.  Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it.  The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
    3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in.  Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out.  Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case.  Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan.  It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?).  It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle.  The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case.  This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
    If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved.  I'll let you know how this turns out.
    I may also try the following:
    1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
    2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
    3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

    god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that  
    I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that.  But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
    I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
    At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
    As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
    But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
    Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
    why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
    /Wezz

  • Mega 180 CPU Fan

    Hi,
    has anyone successfully replaced the provided CPU cooler and fan of the Mega 180? I have seen a lot of postings about reversing fans and installing additional Zalman OP1, but none about replacing the CPU cooler.
    Do you think a Zalman CNPS5100 (link below) would fit?
    http://www.zalmanusa.com/usa/product/view.asp?idx=24&code=005009
    Thanks, Ricardo

    I also Bought one of these lovely little systems
    but I was worried, whenever i started playing games (Call of Duty for example)
    my CPU Temp went over 60 and Im near 100% i smelt a bad burning smell :(
    Spec
    3000XP AMD CPU
    512 GB DDR Ram
    MSI TV Turner Card
    Sony DVD Rom/CDRW
    I did have a 256MB G-Force FX Card in it, but was scared incase it wasnt helping the CPU Fans run and incase that was the reason for the over heating.
    other nitemare i had with this was trying to get the Graphics card into the AGP slot :(
    anyone has any ideas how to cool it down a little lmk
    also whats the average temp on a tower case anyhow, i got one but no idea what cpu temp is

  • WMVHD on Mega 180

    Hi,
    I ask your help to understand if my Mega 180 with 1 gb ddr and integrated geforce4 (with 128 mb dedicated) can play smoothly wmvhd.
    Is there any bios setting that can solve the problem?
    Or I have to use the latest nvidia drivers?
    Or simply I have to add an AGP video card?
    Thanks in advance.

    So far I tested the ATI 9200, the situation improves a little, but only on WMV 720p, not on 1080i.
    Please help me to solve my problem. Should I:   
    -upgrade my bios
    -change some config on present bios
    -install a more powerful CPU (maximum allowed Athlon 3000+)
    -install an additional GPU like GeForce 6600 even if is suggested only with a PSU of 300 Watts and my Mega 180 has a 200W(PFC 5V/12V SB) Full Range
    the last solution is the most suggested but I'm scared about heating on my case.
    Thanks in advance
    Renato
    Configuration:
    Mega 180
    CPU Athlon 2600+
    1Gb (2x512) RAM DDR400 V-Data
    HD Maxtor 160Gb IDE
    DVD Burner Pioneed A109
    Integrated audio
    Integrated Geforce4
    USB-Bluetooth Dongle
    Bluetooth trackball keyboard DigitalRise (http://www.digitalrise.biz/products/input/keyboard_btb/)
    Windows XP Pro SP2
    Latest Nforce Sound drivers and Nvidia Video drivers
    TV CRT Philips 32PW9308 32 inch. 16:9 100hz (via S-SHS)
    Screen Resolution 720x480
    Audio output by Creative GD580 5.1 Surround Speaker (Dolby & DTS)

  • Power cable shortage in Mega 180?

    Hi all,
    I'm a bit new to this whole forum thing, but could do with some help re: graphics card in my Mega 180. Here goes...
    I have a Mega 180 (CPU 3200) and am currently using a GeForce 4200GT AGP graphics card. I've wanted to upgrade to something a little smoother so went and ordered a 128mb Sparkle GeForce 6600GT AGP. Well it arrived this morning and after sticking it in I realised it needs a power cable like the one going into the optical drive (my 4200GT didn't need this). Looking around the guts of the computer, though, I can't find another power cable spare.
    Any ideas if there's a way around this problem or I am just not destined to have a better graphics card?
    I've had a look at the sticky for the 180 and searched the forum a bit but haven't found any answers yet. As I say, I'm a bit new so if I'm being blatently stupid and missing something crucial here, please let me know! Thanks   

    Something along the lines of this "http://linitx.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_115&products_id=482&osCsid=2464a645f9de9262de9981bdfe2360db"

  • Mega 180 and MSI FX5200-TD128

    Hi all and thanks in advance for any help.
    I just bought MEGA 180 a some more things, here is my current config:
    Box - Mega 180
    CPU - Barton 2500+
    Memory - 2x256 - 400Mhz from Phoenix Technologies
    Disk - 120 Gigs HD - Seagate Ultraquiet
    DVD Rom - Leadtek Silent
    PVR PCI Card - PVR 350 from Hauppage
    Everything works fine.
    Now I have an MSI FX5200-TD128 Graphics Card and decided to try it out.
    With some difficulty I managed to put it in but now .... the computer simply does not start .. well sort off.  
    Once I hit the power on button three things can happen:
    * Computer starts but the display is not on, and eventually it locks.
    * Computer starts with some gittery on the screen and it locks
    * Computer starts, I hit the del key but I can't even get into the BIOS.
    In either case the OS never boots.
    My question is,
    * Do I need to set something on the BIOS before I install the card such as, increase the AGP voltage or something like that?
    * Can it be that my memory is just BAD for it?
    * Can it be that my AGP slot is just BAD?
    * Do I need to setup the BIOS prior to the operation?
    * Is this just that my MSI card is too power hungry, which I think it strange as it is from MSI, its the latest model of its type?
    Please help me, and again thanks in advance.
    Nuno
    PS: By the way, my BIOS is V3.30 downloaded two days ago from Live Update

    Hi,
    Managed to get it working. Here is what I did in case anyone has the same problem as mine.
    1) Take a memory DIMM out, a let one just stay there. This will get you a memory total of 256 Mgs and your system will now boot.
    2) Get to the BIOS settings.
    3) Choose the option concerning DIMM's and performance (third option I think).
    4) In the third option select Manual. This will allow you to set specific options for the memory.
    5) Select Auto in the option concerning CPU / DIMM transfer rating.
    6) Select High Performance in the 7th or 8th option concerning your DIMM settings.
    7) Save the BIOS
    8) Put the DIMM back in
    9) Start your system and voila it works.
    Best regards,
    Nuno

  • Sloowww internal modem MEGA 180

    The internal modem on my Mega 180 is in credibly sloooowww, it's basicly unusable.
    Does anybody eles have this problem, or are you all on broadband.
    Any suggestions?
    Cheers Lewis
    Mega 180
    CPU 2200
    Optic drive Lg
    Powercolor ATI 9600 xt
    DDR 400 RAM 512
    Segate Harddrive 120 gig

    how do you mean by incredibly slow?
    what is your connection speed? (the speed you are connecting at - should be between 38-46kbps, depending on your phoneline)
    check for updated drivers for the onboard modem.
    do any other computers in your house connect okay using the phoneline?

  • Mega 180 Temperature

    Hi all,
    Here are my settings:
    Box - Mega 180
    CPU - Barton 2500+
    Memory - 2x256 - 400Mhz from Phoenix Technologies
    Disk - 120 Gigs HD - Seagate Ultraquiet
    DVD Rom - Leadtek Silent
    PVR PCI Card - PVR 350 from Hauppage
    BIOS - 3.2
    My concern now is temperature. Ok I have all slots occupied with an FX5200 and a PVR 250 card. Both blocking some airflow in to the CPU Vans.
    These are the temps I get:
    * Anything between 50 and 60 on idle
    * Anything between 58 and 65 on medium stress
    * Anything betwen 62 and 74 on heavy load.
    I don't know if I should worry about this. I know they are quite high but as long the system works and I'm not incurring the risk of damaging the PC is fine for me.
    So tell me, should I worry or should I not?
    Nuno

    Hmm
    I got it to a idle temperature of 38 degrees (In PCALERT4) and a top of 52/55 degrees.
    What i did is cutting all the tie-wraps off the ATX Mainboard powerconnector, and leaded them Under the PSU. I have a Sparkle Geforce FX5200 (which is a small card anyway, and uses no fan to cool the GPU), and i leaded the Powercables in front of the Graphics card (when looking at the side of the MEGA 180). i didn't wrap them up again, but left them loose (because i guess they can absorb Heat when bundled together, and letting them loose won't give a pressure to anything).
    Next to this i wrapped the rest of the cables to the top bar of the case, so i had the space above the AGP-card Wide open...
    i also checked the airflow of the CPU-Coolers on the heatsink, got them both blowing to the right of the MEGA case (the side on which the small cooler is).
    On my heatsink they were blowing opposite directions when i first unpacked it, but that could be a tiny mistake made at MSI, this didn't affect much when you used the onboard VGA. I changed the flow-direction to both to the right after i installed the AGP-card.
    Something i HAVE to mention is that the harddisk can generate a LOT of heat... Haven't done much on that part in my machine, but i'm planning to drill a few vent-holes on the bracket in which the harddisk is screwed, and place one or two Fan(s) just right under it blowing away from the harddisk to the outside.
    Another option i have is to use a 2.5 inch (notebook) Harddisk instead of a 3.5 inch. it's a bit slower than a normal harddisk, but generates less heat and consumes less power.
    Anyway... The Quest for a cooler MEGA 180 continues......
    Greetingz,
    Shadowguy

  • Mega 180 fan specs???

    Hello,
    I'd like to change all my fans on my Mega 180 (cpu and psu fans)
    Can anybody tell my the specs of these fans so i can buy a new ones???
    Thanks in advance (and sorry for my bad english)

    It's not actually the CPU-fan that is causing the most noise. The smaller exhaust-fan is the only one measured by PC Alert (as far as I know, correct me if I'm wrong), and it is quiet enough, even for being a Delta! The problem is the larger (60mm) intake-fan that seems to be running on a constant rpm.
    I've tried the Zalman Fan Mate 1 to lower the rpm on the intake. Tuning it down does take away a lot of the noise, but the CPU temperature will increase instead, causing the CPU-fan to spin faster   That isn't a big issue however, since it is rather silent...
    This weekend I'll be replacing the standard 60mm fan with a Papst. It should be much quieter than the stock fan, but I'll just have to see what happens to the CPU temps. One problem with replacing the fans is the lack of space in the chassis. The original fans are 60x60x15 and 50x50x10, and not much else will fit with the standard HS in place.
    One other measure I'll take is to follow johnrr6's advice on maximizing the airflow inside the Mega by removing cable clutter: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46409&sid=
    It seems John's Mega is the quietest thing around, and the coolest running...  
    Noise just isn't compatible with a Media Center PC, and although an SFF isn't exactly the best chassi for an ultrasilent HTPC, the Mega could do better than this.
    Let us know if you try something successful.

  • MEGA 180 & Palomino cpu

    Hi all, i tried the search function but didn´t find what i wanted.
    so, will mega 180 work with a xp1800+ Palomino?
    I intend to buy mega 180, but I have to know if my cpu will work for it.
    if it will support the palomino, then i can buy 2x333MHz Kingston DDR258MB sticks.
    otherwise I´ll only get 1 of those and then either a barton or a sempron cpu, sempron is supported?
    oh, and how big is the box for mega 180? either in inches or centimetres

    another question:
    Would my old Duron 750MHz CPU work too?
    Until I can buy either a Barton 2800+, 3000+ or sempron 2800 or 3000?
    I´ll buy one of those in december.
    I´ll use arctic silver when adding the newer CPU.
    oh btw,  I ordered the MEGA180 Deluxe with Kingston KVR333X64C25/512.
    What Harddisk would be best to install into MEGA180?
    I´m thinking of a 80 or 120GB HD´s from http://www.webhallen.com/list.php?avd=3&konsol=13&genre=53
    Could this be good? http://www.webhallen.com/prod.php?id=11938
    or is there better HD´s out there?

  • Mega 180 - Mobile XP CPU

    Does any one know for sure if you can use a Mobile Athlon XP CPU in a Mega 180 system?  
    I'm buying the whole system this weekend, so I want to know if I can buy the Mobile CPU or a normal XP CPU? Thanks!!!

    First you need to figure out your startup multiplier.  You should be able to do that by going into your BIOS and take your operating frequency, divided by your bus frequency.  I'm not on my Mega PC now, and I did this many months ago, so I don't remember if this will get you your startup multiplier.  You could also download CPU MSR (http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/html/CPUMSR_main.htm) and it can tell you your startup multiplier.
    I have a AMD Mobile Athlon XP 2400+ (1800 MHz), and it has a startup multiplier of 6.
    Once you have the startup multiplier, go to http://www.ocinside.de/html/workshop/pinmod/amd_pinmod.html, change to "socket view", and "AMD Barton", and (with my CPU, your multiplier may differ) to "3,00 x Systembus (6xFSB)", and "133 MHz FSB".  You'll see the jumpers that are already present (on your CPU).  Now change the multiplier to something else and note what jumpers changed.  Those are the ones you have to put into your socket.  
    Make a printout of the socket view (or take careful notes).  Now you have to go in your computer, remove the CPU, and carefully insert a 'U' shaped piece of fine wire (I used stripped piece of 30 gauge rework wire) between the two pins you previously identified.  The hard part is making sure you correctly orientate your printout with the socket on the board.  Careful!
    In my case, I saw that changing from "6xFSB" to "12xFSB" was only one jumper.  That would slightly _under_clocked my CPU to 1600 MHz, or if I changed the FSB to 166 MHz, it would slightly _over_clock my CPU to 2000 MHz.  Nice!  So, with the one jumper installed I could use a BIOS setting change to switch between conservative and aggressive (or cooler and hotter).  The system ran reliably, and cool, even at the overclocked setting of 166 MHz (and that matched my DDR speed), so that's were I left it.
    Hope that helps.

  • MEGA 180 remote control LINUX support

    I'm trying to set the MEGA 180 up as a home entertainment system with Freevo on Debian (Linux).
    The system now boots from network, and sound/video/tv-out works perfectly.
    I've not managed to use the LCD, radio and remote control yet.
    (Or the card reader, but that should not be a problem).
    The radio and LCD I can live without, but the remote control was what got me to buy the system in the first place.  Does anyone know how to make it work with linux?
    If someone could supply me with specs for the hardware, I should be able to write a driver myself, but so far, I've had no luck finding the info I need.
    (I didn't expect the onboard IR reciever to work, so I had build a serial IR reciever... but when I got the PC... no serial port )
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    These are the only links I have got that might be of interest.
    http://www.siliconmotion.com.tw/bluebirdvl.htm
    http://lirc.sourceforge.net/remotes/msi/
    not a lot of help I know but I light a candle every so often

  • MEGA 180: A story of stupidity mixed up with bad product design

    This is more for a word of caution to Mega180 users and future owners.
    A bit angry as I managed to burn ( physically ) 2 harddrives  because of carefulness about 10 mins.
    Spend quite some time looking for a SATA to ATI power converter while looking for a solution to CPU temp problem. Could not find one ( and  I don't know if any one does it )
    As my old HD did not start the OS on Mega180 for some data transfer I was not able to use my USB external HD. So I decided to connect old HD as slave and do a HD to HD transfer. Here comes the bad design, the HD connection cable specifies a slot for a slave HD however there is only one power connector (ATI) for supported IDE HD. and there is a useless SATA power connector,it is useless as MEGA 180 does not support SATA.
    Here comes the stupidity, for a min I came up with the bright idea of using the CD drives power connector ( I now remember that I ruled this option earlier, I wish I remembered it all along) As there is always a current on this cable (when there is a power connection - for the HIFI mode to work ) I guess some static electricity effected my HD. Not having realised the HD is already affected, I swapped the cables as the HD connection cable is not long enough to keep 2 HDs in a steady state.
    As a result both my HDs are now not working, when I tried the original master HD I was horrified to see a spark and some fume  
    I wish I never tried to use my old graphics card - which I wanted only for the DVI support. This led to CPU temperatures of average 70 degree celcius and when I ever I tried to use the PC properly I was had to turn it off due to extreme temperatures over 75 degree celcius.
    All I was after is a troublefree smooth working nice looking PC, yet I am stuck now... I am both upset for the data I lost as well as hours I spend in trying to put this thing together. I will decide in the morning to return or keep the product. If I keep it the next challenge will be getting my external HD to run an OS as I need to save up again to buy a new HD, I was hoping my next HD would be a SATA one :(
    This is definately a bitter lesson. Such a pity that with just a little more effort MSI could have really improved the profuct most are listed here but I want to summarise:
    1. before getting the new product out try fitting a new graphics card and a TV card and operate both for 2 hours... That is if you could fit them both in the first reason why you could not is the cables from power supply is unnecessarily long for supplying power to the board and unsuitably located. the best you could do is place them all infront of the cpu fan.
    2. It is really great to have detachable ODD and HD yet Floppy drive ( card reader ) bay is static
    3. a better location for CPU or card slots would have contributed to airflow far more.
    Better close here... I am still not sure if positives of the product companates all the negatives.  

    Simply, be aware that the power cable for the CDRom is live most all the time that your backpanel power cord is plugged in. Its for the support of CD/MP3 in HI-Fi mode. If you shut down your system, and not unplug the power, and you try to connect or disconnect anything to the IDE cable, and you are using the power cable for the CD, you can cause static/surging on the component you are hooking up....
    If you must hookup an alternate drive [slave] for data dumping/imaging etc. use a Y cable from the HDD power cable. It only activates when the PC power switch is utilized....

  • Things to Know Before Building Your Mega 180

    Some people have asked me for a list of tips so here is my attempt---I'll ask Wonk to sticky it if it turns out OK....
    Feel free to PM me with more tips---I'll add as necessary....
    TIP SHEET FOR THE MEGA 180:
    So you bought that new Mega 180 and the docs leave a lot to be desired......Don't panic!!  Take a look at this tip sheet.  Should save you a lot of hours!
    RAM AND PROCESSOR:
    Several things here.....If you are going to use onboard video----you should NOT use higher RAM than PC 2700----waste of money to buy higher as the Nforce2 18G "Crush" was only designed to run no higher than with DDR333 RAM (PC2700).  Nvidia warns against it on their site.  I have personally experienced a LOT of problems when you try to run the onboard at DDR 400 (PC3200)----trashed Bios in most cases.  Also---the 18G and to some extent---"Dual Channel" is picky about memory----try to get a matched pair of DIMMS----and if you REALLY want to be on the safe side----go to Nvidias site and look up the page that lists known, compatable memory with the NForce2 chipsetNforce2 compatable memory.  I use A-Data 512 sticks---but they are hard to find.
    If you are going to use a Vidcard---then higher memory is just fine----but if you are NOT planning on overclocking-----there is really NO need for higher than PC2700 as the default bus for Barton 2800+ and below is FSB 166 (DDR333---PC 2700).
    Alyways run your RAM (Synch) 100%---do not play with dividers if you are using the onboard video.  If you have no clue what I just said----you are fine as the defaults will take care of this----this last was for overclockers.
    Processor----I like the cost of the Barton 2800+ right now----fast, cheap and even using the onboard and no overclocking----you have a fast machine that can do anything.  The 2800+ also leaves the door open for a slight overclock (I have not tried this yet) without too much stress on anything.
    LCD PANEL:
    Do Not----I say again----Do Not use the "welcome.exe" program----or ANY other program on ANY disk or the MSI website to do ANYTHING to your front panel.  That program is for the Mega 651 model and WILL TRASH YOUR LCD.  The LCD panel works just fine----it doesn't need any updating.
    If this advice is to late, the firmware fix is in here:
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46355&sid=
    Do download and install the latest version of PC Alert MSI Mega 180 Downloads----works great with the front LCD panel and displays PC info nicely.
    Use the EQ mode buttons while playing in the HiFi mode----changes the sound a lot and also the display changes------COOL!
    OPTICAL DRIVE:
    Use an MSI optical drive----basically anything from MSI will work fine---some other drives are reported to work fine like a NEC 2500A----but if you use an MSI drive----you can't go wrong.  You might want to put the drive in another machine with a floppy first----and download and update that drive to the latest firmware (most will require a floppy to do that and the Mega 180 has none.)
    CABLE MANAGEMENT:
    Buy a dollar pack of cable ties and go to work-----make sure ALL cables are away from the front of the intake fan for the CPU----you want a very clear path to the cooler.  Less clutter---better airflow.  Better airflow----lower temps.
    CPU INSTALL:
    Get rid of the MSI thermal grease with some Goof Off or acetone-----and get some good Arctic Silver 3, AS5 or AS Ceramique.  Clean both the chip top and the bottom of the HS with denatured alcohol before applying the thermal grease.  You might also want to lapp the bottom of the HS which is not very well done----but I found it not necessary.  The HS/Fan unit is very easy to install----just rotate your screw down points as perscribed by the sticker on the cooler----don't tighten one screw all the way down----then go to the next.
    DRIVERS:
    I found the drivers on the install disk to be non-functional---- get the latest drivers from the MSI website (you can use Live Update for this) or go to http://www.nforcershq.com and get the latest Nforce2 Driver Remix from Morpheus1 or Mwarhead.
    DO NOT use the Nvidia SW IDE driver (say "No" when it asks you in the driver install)  Only use the ITB (In The Box) IDE driver----it's the default driver.  Your Optical device will probably not function correctly (eject, etc) with the Nvidia SW IDE driver.
    Nforce2 SoundStorm Drivers are a tricky topic----there are TONS of versions out there.... I've had the best luck so far with Drivers 4.31 (Off Microsoft Windows Updates---it was a Driver Update) and Audio Control Panel 4.31.  Nvidia has a driver update package now JUST for audio-----posted Here
    If you are having problems with Media Center III crashing----it seems to be a conflict between the SoundStorm Drivers and Media Center III,  Uninstall your Nvidia audio devices in the device manager (Three of them----there is one hidden---so go to view and "show hidden devices")  then reboot and let Windows rerecognize your devices and reload drivers.  This will solve most problems until Media Center II has another bad crash----in which case---you may have to do this procedure over again.  You can tell if it's really hosed up because the radio sound will come on automatically at boot----or you will have lost the SoundStorm Control Panel Icon in the SysTray.  I'm working on different versions of SoundStorm to see which works best---will update if I find anything new.  (Update)----4.31 seems to be the best but I still can'ttotally eliminate the crashing in Media Center III.
    Once you get your Lan device up and running (or your modem) Go to Windows Update and make sure you are completly updated with all latest window updates---If using WinXP-----you need to be at WinXP ServPack 1a when you are done.
    Use Windows Cleanup and Defrag when you are done----ESPECIALLY cleanup---to get rid of any left over temp files in the Mega----To get the BEST and most optimised defrag----run windows defrag at least three times in a row----maybe more----it will REALLY optimise the drive.
    TV CARD:
    The main TV Card designed for the Mega 180 is the MSI 8606-40 Mega TV Card----be careful to get it vice the other version of the MSI 8606 which is the MSI 8606-10 TV@anywhere Master.
    The Mega TV Card does not include a Radio while the 8606-10 DOES include a radio.  Since your Mega 180 already has a radio----you absolutely don't need or want the 8606-10 TV@anywhere Master.
    Do NOT use any drivers or software you receive with the Mega TV Card MSI 8606-40----just set the disks aside.  You will ONLY uses the drivers off the Mega 180 Install Disk.
    The Mega TV Card MUST be installed before the menu item for "Install TV Tuner Drivers" becomes visible on the Mega 180 install disk.
    Make sure your TV Card is hooked into the line called "Remote Control" within the Mega 180 itself----there is a small 3 inch connecting wire in the TV card box.
    The TV and Radio function well with the remote----but you must have MSI Media Center III installed.  I could not get the TV or the Radio to work without Media Center III.
    Upon initial setup of the TV within Media Center III---you may have to switch the source between cable and antenna to get the initial channels to auto scan.  Once done auto scanning---switch back to cable as source (assuming you have cable).
    Using the remote to force the TV screen to full screen:  When you use the up/down arrows on the remote----watch the menu items on the screen----the various menu item buttons will highlight as you hit the arrows.
    Once you have highlighted the little arrow button on the lower right of the screen----just below the TV display (it will turn green)----hit the ENTER key
    It goes to widescreen----hit the ENTER key again------it goes to fullscreen
    BTW, the remote works fine-----the trick is you HAVE to have Media Center III installed and available to be called for it to control the TV Card----Radio Etc.  It will start up normally when you push the TV button on the remote.
    BIOS SETTINGS:
    The defaults will mostly work.  One thing----to get BEST performance out of the NForce 2 Onboard video----set AGP to 128 and Set Frame Buffer to 128----I had crashes with almost any other video setting.  I'm still playing with PCI clock, voltages, and some other settings to get better stability-----will let you know.....
    6 CHANNEL SOUND
    Use all three ports in the back of the Mega 180 and then configure it using the SoundStorm Control Panel----Use the "Speaker Setup Wizard".  Check and adjust using the "Test Tone" button.  I'm using an inexpensive set of Analog Altec Lansing 5.1s----the sound is excellent.
    That's all for now----tell me what else you've found and I'll post.
    John

    My MSI MEGA 180 has a strange display on the monitor.
    I opened the boxed removed all items.
    Installed the CPU (supported on the CPU compatability list for the MSI MEGA 180), installed the heatsink & fan.
    Installed the HD drive.
    Installed the MSI DVD+/-RW
    Installed 1 DIMM module of DDR RAM PC2700 333MHZ 1GB
    Pushed the Power button for the PC and the desplay is corrupted.
    I tried the 4 possible configurations for Jumpers 7 and 8 to alter the FSB speed with no luck.
    I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations without having the HDD and DVD-RW drives connected - same result.
    I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations with the Secondary VGA output connected to my monitor.
    I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations with the S-Video output connected to my TV and no signal at all.
    Both my monitor and HDD work fine with my other PC.
    I noticed the jumper pins are not numbered - made the configuration job a bit more tedious.
    Please note the LCD screen works correctly, however the redio tuner in HiFi mode doesn't pick up any local stations.
    As I am a Software Test Engineer, I am 100% confident I have checked all possible configurations including clearing the CMOS, but the system simply will not display to the VDU. The POST should at least be visible when Power is turned on for the PC mode.
    NOTE: I will update the RAM Brand as soon as I find out the title from the supplier, but I believe it is OEM.
    NOTE II: this is the URL to the CPU used: http://www.excaliberpc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1798
    PLeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssss ssssssssssssssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eee  help ease my pain!!

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