MEGA 180 Memory High or Low Density

Hello,
Does anyone know what memory should be used in the Mega 180?
I have just brought a
'1GB PC2700 RAM 1 GB DDR 333 PC 2700 DIMM MEMORY 184PIN High Density'
module but it does not work, the supplier says it should be
'1GB PC2700 RAM 1 GB DDR 333 PC 2700 DIMM MEMORY 184PIN Low Density'
I can not find anywhere that says it needs to be Low density I have sent a email to MSI, but no reply, does anyone know??

This is the question I didn't ask
Seems I can upgrade to Low Density, so lucky and still a good price, thanks again
Quote from https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=76954.0
I'm thinking of buying some of this 1gb '128x4' high density RAM thats really cheap on Ebay...'
Do a search of this forum for 128x4, and try and find a post where someone has successfully got this type of RAM working... if you can't be bothered searching, the answer would appear to be no. better to not waste your time and get some proper 128x64 if you want 1gb sticks

Similar Messages

High or Low Density RAM???

Im looking at expanding the RAM in my imac, and have been shopping around on eBay. however, i dont know the difference between high and low density ram modules? Does anyone know which is most suitable or compatible or beneficial for my imac G5?
Thanks

Buying the best does not have to cost more or be an exercise in electrical engineering. Look at 1GB RAM modules from Crucial.com, it's the exact same OEM RAM that Apple ships in a large percentage of Macs (and it's usually Micron brand, sometimes Samsung brand).
On the other hand, if you're looking to buy an additional 512MB (a mistake IMHO) there's plenty of OEM RAM (Samsung, Micron, Hynix, Nanya brands) that sells very cheap on eBay that's been pulled from Macs prior to upgrading to 1GB sticks. 512 sticks are cheap because very few want them and a lot wish to sell what they've removed.

DDR2 high or low density?

Hi....I've got a K9N6PGM2-V2 board and I'm trying to find if it requires low or hi density mem. Installed hi/2gb stick--won't load os///fails memtest86. Put in 1gb stick low---works fine!
Company tells me hi density may not work w/Nvidia chipset and could give false test readings.
Thanks,
mark

Quote
Installed hi/2gb stick--won't load os///fails memtest86. Put in 1gb stick low---works fine!
I think you answered your own question there.

Whats the difference between high-density and low-density ram?

I bought what I thought was supposed to be a cheap 256 mb chip (pc100 or 133) but the g4 400 read only 128mb, The fellow in the store that sold it flipped out when I told him I had a Mac and said something about high density and low-density.Another guy in the store described it as being one sided and two sided.
I don't know what my machine needs. I got my money back but he would'nt let me exchange the chip for another, me thinking it was simply mislabeled.

The QuickSilvers use PC-133 SDRAM and are compatible with high-density memory chips (256 Megabit), so that 16-chip 512 MB and 8-chip 256 MB non-ECC DIMMs are supported. A low density, 16-chip (128 Megabit) 256 MB DIMM is also supported.

"Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work. I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it. I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I). I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any. Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area. It's already optimal.
2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins. There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason. Aluminum is no good. Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect. First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me. Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it. The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in. Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out. Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case. Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan. It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?). It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle. The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case. This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved. I'll let you know how this turns out.
I may also try the following:
1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that
I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that. But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
/Wezz

Things to Know Before Building Your Mega 180

Some people have asked me for a list of tips so here is my attempt---I'll ask Wonk to sticky it if it turns out OK....
Feel free to PM me with more tips---I'll add as necessary....
TIP SHEET FOR THE MEGA 180:
So you bought that new Mega 180 and the docs leave a lot to be desired......Don't panic!! Take a look at this tip sheet. Should save you a lot of hours!
RAM AND PROCESSOR:
Several things here.....If you are going to use onboard video----you should NOT use higher RAM than PC 2700----waste of money to buy higher as the Nforce2 18G "Crush" was only designed to run no higher than with DDR333 RAM (PC2700). Nvidia warns against it on their site. I have personally experienced a LOT of problems when you try to run the onboard at DDR 400 (PC3200)----trashed Bios in most cases. Also---the 18G and to some extent---"Dual Channel" is picky about memory----try to get a matched pair of DIMMS----and if you REALLY want to be on the safe side----go to Nvidias site and look up the page that lists known, compatable memory with the NForce2 chipsetNforce2 compatable memory. I use A-Data 512 sticks---but they are hard to find.
If you are going to use a Vidcard---then higher memory is just fine----but if you are NOT planning on overclocking-----there is really NO need for higher than PC2700 as the default bus for Barton 2800+ and below is FSB 166 (DDR333---PC 2700).
Alyways run your RAM (Synch) 100%---do not play with dividers if you are using the onboard video. If you have no clue what I just said----you are fine as the defaults will take care of this----this last was for overclockers.
Processor----I like the cost of the Barton 2800+ right now----fast, cheap and even using the onboard and no overclocking----you have a fast machine that can do anything. The 2800+ also leaves the door open for a slight overclock (I have not tried this yet) without too much stress on anything.
LCD PANEL:
Do Not----I say again----Do Not use the "welcome.exe" program----or ANY other program on ANY disk or the MSI website to do ANYTHING to your front panel. That program is for the Mega 651 model and WILL TRASH YOUR LCD. The LCD panel works just fine----it doesn't need any updating.
If this advice is to late, the firmware fix is in here:
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46355&sid=
Do download and install the latest version of PC Alert MSI Mega 180 Downloads----works great with the front LCD panel and displays PC info nicely.
Use the EQ mode buttons while playing in the HiFi mode----changes the sound a lot and also the display changes------COOL!
OPTICAL DRIVE:
Use an MSI optical drive----basically anything from MSI will work fine---some other drives are reported to work fine like a NEC 2500A----but if you use an MSI drive----you can't go wrong. You might want to put the drive in another machine with a floppy first----and download and update that drive to the latest firmware (most will require a floppy to do that and the Mega 180 has none.)
CABLE MANAGEMENT:
Buy a dollar pack of cable ties and go to work-----make sure ALL cables are away from the front of the intake fan for the CPU----you want a very clear path to the cooler. Less clutter---better airflow. Better airflow----lower temps.
CPU INSTALL:
Get rid of the MSI thermal grease with some Goof Off or acetone-----and get some good Arctic Silver 3, AS5 or AS Ceramique. Clean both the chip top and the bottom of the HS with denatured alcohol before applying the thermal grease. You might also want to lapp the bottom of the HS which is not very well done----but I found it not necessary. The HS/Fan unit is very easy to install----just rotate your screw down points as perscribed by the sticker on the cooler----don't tighten one screw all the way down----then go to the next.
DRIVERS:
I found the drivers on the install disk to be non-functional---- get the latest drivers from the MSI website (you can use Live Update for this) or go to http://www.nforcershq.com and get the latest Nforce2 Driver Remix from Morpheus1 or Mwarhead.
DO NOT use the Nvidia SW IDE driver (say "No" when it asks you in the driver install) Only use the ITB (In The Box) IDE driver----it's the default driver. Your Optical device will probably not function correctly (eject, etc) with the Nvidia SW IDE driver.
Nforce2 SoundStorm Drivers are a tricky topic----there are TONS of versions out there.... I've had the best luck so far with Drivers 4.31 (Off Microsoft Windows Updates---it was a Driver Update) and Audio Control Panel 4.31. Nvidia has a driver update package now JUST for audio-----posted Here
If you are having problems with Media Center III crashing----it seems to be a conflict between the SoundStorm Drivers and Media Center III, Uninstall your Nvidia audio devices in the device manager (Three of them----there is one hidden---so go to view and "show hidden devices") then reboot and let Windows rerecognize your devices and reload drivers. This will solve most problems until Media Center II has another bad crash----in which case---you may have to do this procedure over again. You can tell if it's really hosed up because the radio sound will come on automatically at boot----or you will have lost the SoundStorm Control Panel Icon in the SysTray. I'm working on different versions of SoundStorm to see which works best---will update if I find anything new. (Update)----4.31 seems to be the best but I still can'ttotally eliminate the crashing in Media Center III.
Once you get your Lan device up and running (or your modem) Go to Windows Update and make sure you are completly updated with all latest window updates---If using WinXP-----you need to be at WinXP ServPack 1a when you are done.
Use Windows Cleanup and Defrag when you are done----ESPECIALLY cleanup---to get rid of any left over temp files in the Mega----To get the BEST and most optimised defrag----run windows defrag at least three times in a row----maybe more----it will REALLY optimise the drive.
TV CARD:
The main TV Card designed for the Mega 180 is the MSI 8606-40 Mega TV Card----be careful to get it vice the other version of the MSI 8606 which is the MSI 8606-10 TV@anywhere Master.
The Mega TV Card does not include a Radio while the 8606-10 DOES include a radio. Since your Mega 180 already has a radio----you absolutely don't need or want the 8606-10 TV@anywhere Master.
Do NOT use any drivers or software you receive with the Mega TV Card MSI 8606-40----just set the disks aside. You will ONLY uses the drivers off the Mega 180 Install Disk.
The Mega TV Card MUST be installed before the menu item for "Install TV Tuner Drivers" becomes visible on the Mega 180 install disk.
Make sure your TV Card is hooked into the line called "Remote Control" within the Mega 180 itself----there is a small 3 inch connecting wire in the TV card box.
The TV and Radio function well with the remote----but you must have MSI Media Center III installed. I could not get the TV or the Radio to work without Media Center III.
Upon initial setup of the TV within Media Center III---you may have to switch the source between cable and antenna to get the initial channels to auto scan. Once done auto scanning---switch back to cable as source (assuming you have cable).
Using the remote to force the TV screen to full screen: When you use the up/down arrows on the remote----watch the menu items on the screen----the various menu item buttons will highlight as you hit the arrows.
Once you have highlighted the little arrow button on the lower right of the screen----just below the TV display (it will turn green)----hit the ENTER key
It goes to widescreen----hit the ENTER key again------it goes to fullscreen
BTW, the remote works fine-----the trick is you HAVE to have Media Center III installed and available to be called for it to control the TV Card----Radio Etc. It will start up normally when you push the TV button on the remote.
BIOS SETTINGS:
The defaults will mostly work. One thing----to get BEST performance out of the NForce 2 Onboard video----set AGP to 128 and Set Frame Buffer to 128----I had crashes with almost any other video setting. I'm still playing with PCI clock, voltages, and some other settings to get better stability-----will let you know.....
6 CHANNEL SOUND
Use all three ports in the back of the Mega 180 and then configure it using the SoundStorm Control Panel----Use the "Speaker Setup Wizard". Check and adjust using the "Test Tone" button. I'm using an inexpensive set of Analog Altec Lansing 5.1s----the sound is excellent.
That's all for now----tell me what else you've found and I'll post.
John

My MSI MEGA 180 has a strange display on the monitor.
I opened the boxed removed all items.
Installed the CPU (supported on the CPU compatability list for the MSI MEGA 180), installed the heatsink & fan.
Installed the HD drive.
Installed the MSI DVD+/-RW
Installed 1 DIMM module of DDR RAM PC2700 333MHZ 1GB
Pushed the Power button for the PC and the desplay is corrupted.
I tried the 4 possible configurations for Jumpers 7 and 8 to alter the FSB speed with no luck.
I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations without having the HDD and DVD-RW drives connected - same result.
I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations with the Secondary VGA output connected to my monitor.
I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations with the S-Video output connected to my TV and no signal at all.
Both my monitor and HDD work fine with my other PC.
I noticed the jumper pins are not numbered - made the configuration job a bit more tedious.
Please note the LCD screen works correctly, however the redio tuner in HiFi mode doesn't pick up any local stations.
As I am a Software Test Engineer, I am 100% confident I have checked all possible configurations including clearing the CMOS, but the system simply will not display to the VDU. The POST should at least be visible when Power is turned on for the PC mode.
NOTE: I will update the RAM Brand as soon as I find out the title from the supplier, but I believe it is OEM.
NOTE II: this is the URL to the CPU used: http://www.excaliberpc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1798
PLeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssss ssssssssssssssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eee help ease my pain!!

MSI Mega 180 problems

Hello all, i'm quite stuck on something and need some help.
I have recently purchased an MSI Mega 180 deluxe and installed an pioneer a07 dvd writer in there, for some reason it won't let me burn cd's in audio cd format from wav files, which i need for my music studio.
Also i constructed an external case to put an internet pioneer a03 dvd writer and did the same process and believe it or not i was able to burn a audio cd, so not sure what the problem is, could the msi mega 180 dislike my newer model of pioneer, or is the pioneer on it's way out, which i find strange as it's newer and quite new.
I use nero to burn most of my cd's or dvd's which had no problem with when the dvd writer was on another desktop, it seems to get up to 26% and just freezes there, which the buffer level not moving at all.
Hope someone can help, thanks

Sounds like all of your drivers are not up to date....
Here's what M$ has to say about it (shamelessly copied and pasted from another different website/board post).
Stop 0x000000D1 or DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
The Stop 0xD1 message indicates that the system attempted to access pageable memory using a kernel process IRQL that was too high. Drivers that have used improper addresses typically cause this error.
Interpreting the Message
This Stop message has four parameters:
Memory referenced.
IRQL at time of reference.
Type of access (0x00000000 = read operation, 0x00000001 = write operation).
Address that referenced memory.
Resolving the Problem
For additional troubleshooting suggestions that apply to all Stop errors, see "Stop Message Checklist" later in this appendix.
Stop 0xD1 messages can occur after installing faulty drivers or system services. If a driver is listed by name, disable, remove, or roll back that driver to confirm that this resolves the error. If so, contact the manufacturer about a possible update. Using updated software is especially important for backup programs, multimedia applications, antivirus scanners, DVD playback, and CD mastering tools.
For more information about Stop 0xD1 messages, see the Microsoft Knowledge Base link on the Web Resources page at http://www.microsoft.com/windows/reskits/webresources. Search using keywords winnt, 0x000000D1, and 0xD1.
Update Drivers
Updated and comaptiable drivers are very important when running XP. Check your hardware with the HCL http://www.microsoft.com/hcl If you hardware is not on the list it does not mean it won't work it just means it hasn't been tested by Microsoft and they won't Guarantee it to be compatible. If it not on the list check the manufacturer's website fo an up to date XP driver, if they don't have one you may be out of luck. This goes for motherboards and the bios too.

Msi Mega 180 Gaming Problems

Hi,
I having problems playing games on my MEGA 180. Everytime I play a game, after 5 to 10 minutes it just stops and goes back to desktop! Sometimes, I get the blue screen of death instead saying (basically) -
A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down......................
DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Technical information:
*** Stop: 0x000000D1 (0x2A200003, 0x00000002, 0x00000001, 0xF7B9606B)
*** USBPORT.SYS - Address F7B9606B base at F7B7D000 Datestamp 3d6ddc31
Does anyone know what this means and / or why my PC refuses to play games for more than 10 minutes? Everything else works and runs fine untill it comes to games. The blue screen of death only happens when the graphics card is in. Anyway, heres my spec -
MEGA 180
Athlon XP3000+
Crucial 512mb DDR333
MSI Geforce FX5200 T128
Seagate 120gb hard drive
MSI DVDRW
Standard heatsink, fans, power supply etc.
XP pro with sp 1 & 2
Please help!!
Thank you,
Neil.

Sounds like all of your drivers are not up to date....
Here's what M$ has to say about it (shamelessly copied and pasted from another different website/board post).
Stop 0x000000D1 or DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
The Stop 0xD1 message indicates that the system attempted to access pageable memory using a kernel process IRQL that was too high. Drivers that have used improper addresses typically cause this error.
Interpreting the Message
This Stop message has four parameters:
Memory referenced.
IRQL at time of reference.
Type of access (0x00000000 = read operation, 0x00000001 = write operation).
Address that referenced memory.
Resolving the Problem
For additional troubleshooting suggestions that apply to all Stop errors, see "Stop Message Checklist" later in this appendix.
Stop 0xD1 messages can occur after installing faulty drivers or system services. If a driver is listed by name, disable, remove, or roll back that driver to confirm that this resolves the error. If so, contact the manufacturer about a possible update. Using updated software is especially important for backup programs, multimedia applications, antivirus scanners, DVD playback, and CD mastering tools.
For more information about Stop 0xD1 messages, see the Microsoft Knowledge Base link on the Web Resources page at http://www.microsoft.com/windows/reskits/webresources. Search using keywords winnt, 0x000000D1, and 0xD1.
Update Drivers
Updated and comaptiable drivers are very important when running XP. Check your hardware with the HCL http://www.microsoft.com/hcl If you hardware is not on the list it does not mean it won't work it just means it hasn't been tested by Microsoft and they won't Guarantee it to be compatible. If it not on the list check the manufacturer's website fo an up to date XP driver, if they don't have one you may be out of luck. This goes for motherboards and the bios too.

Mega 180 and MSI FX5200-TD128

Hi all and thanks in advance for any help.
I just bought MEGA 180 a some more things, here is my current config:
Box - Mega 180
CPU - Barton 2500+
Memory - 2x256 - 400Mhz from Phoenix Technologies
Disk - 120 Gigs HD - Seagate Ultraquiet
DVD Rom - Leadtek Silent
PVR PCI Card - PVR 350 from Hauppage
Everything works fine.
Now I have an MSI FX5200-TD128 Graphics Card and decided to try it out.
With some difficulty I managed to put it in but now .... the computer simply does not start .. well sort off.
Once I hit the power on button three things can happen:
* Computer starts but the display is not on, and eventually it locks.
* Computer starts with some gittery on the screen and it locks
* Computer starts, I hit the del key but I can't even get into the BIOS.
In either case the OS never boots.
My question is,
* Do I need to set something on the BIOS before I install the card such as, increase the AGP voltage or something like that?
* Can it be that my memory is just BAD for it?
* Can it be that my AGP slot is just BAD?
* Do I need to setup the BIOS prior to the operation?
* Is this just that my MSI card is too power hungry, which I think it strange as it is from MSI, its the latest model of its type?
Please help me, and again thanks in advance.
Nuno
PS: By the way, my BIOS is V3.30 downloaded two days ago from Live Update

Hi,
Managed to get it working. Here is what I did in case anyone has the same problem as mine.
1) Take a memory DIMM out, a let one just stay there. This will get you a memory total of 256 Mgs and your system will now boot.
2) Get to the BIOS settings.
3) Choose the option concerning DIMM's and performance (third option I think).
4) In the third option select Manual. This will allow you to set specific options for the memory.
5) Select Auto in the option concerning CPU / DIMM transfer rating.
6) Select High Performance in the 7th or 8th option concerning your DIMM settings.
7) Save the BIOS
8) Put the DIMM back in
9) Start your system and voila it works.
Best regards,
Nuno

MEGA 180 questions

Okay, so i'm looking at getting a MEGA 180, but before I spend any money I want to make sure it's what i want. So i have a few (hopefully easy to answer) questions.
1. Does the BIOS allow for any sort of overclocking
2. When it is stated that it supports up to 3000+, if you can overclock, can you get above the 3000+ level, or is that the limit.
3. Are there any restrictions on the optical drives that will fit in it? (Dimensions would help me here)
and finally, just in case
4. If anyone has dealt with linux on this system, how is it, as in are there any major problems, etc.
Thanks a lot to anyone who helps, I appreciate it.

Hi Peacetank,
regarding your questions:
1: You can adjust the FSB, and also choose from 3 different Vcore and AGP voltages. However, the biggest problem is likely going to be the heat. You will be dealing with a lot of computer hardware stuffed in a small place. There are several suggestions on this forum to lower the temperatures, but don't expect miracles. The Mega 180 is a far from ideal OC-PC.
2: I'm not sure about this one, but guess it would be possible. A drawback on using a higher FSB would be the limitations of the nforce chipset. It seems that the onboard GForce graphics chip has problems with an FSB of 200 MHz.
3: Optical drives would preferrably be as short as possible. There are some problems reported related to specific drives so see if you can try before you buy.
4: I have seen some Linux related topics in this forum, but I don't know if all the hardware is already supported.
If you are looking for the ultimate game PC, I would not recommend the Mega 180, but when you are looking for a well performing multimedia PC with a lot of extra's: e.g. dual VGA out, optical SP/DIF in-out, wireless network / accespoint, radio, optional TV-card, cool looking LCD front panel, internal card reader;
and you are not afraid to tackle some problems when assembling and installing the computer, go for it!
JaDi

Is it normal that MEGAs frie memory?

Hi. yesterday my mega 180 fried my moms 512mb memory. i thought it was because of overclocking and to high vdimm. i was wrong. today it fried one 256mb memory piece of 512mb. they were not overclocked and had normal vdimm! i just rebooted my mega and then peep peep peep. and when i took out one of them it booted.
is this normal? what can the reason for this be? and what can i do about it?

I would try to see the PSU output voltages. If those are OK, the mobo would be my prime suspect

Mega 180 voltage problem

Dear all,
I just bought this Mega 180 with Athlon 3000+, 1G RAM, using the onboard graphics card.
I took the advice in this forum and reverse the fans direction, although it decreased the cpu temp by 3-4C, but it increased the sys as much as 8C... I think it's something which we need to be aware of since the cpu certainly can torlerate higher temp than, say the board and harddisk...
OK, let's talk about my problem, two days ago, when I was running sandra 2005 ram/cpu benchmark, PC alert 4 warns me that the 3.3V supply is too low, it drops down to 2.8V once...
My initial thought was that it's because of the high internal temp which gives extra resistance to the board circuit, but after I reverse back the fan, it still stays around 3.13V... which by the ATX standard (3.3V + or - 5%) it's still dangerously low...
Can anyone here share what their voltages are? and does anyone knows whether my voltage would have any negative effects?
Another observation to the Mega180, I hear some little buzzing noise when I run the cpu/ram intensively, is it normal?
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated, thx
Kevin

Quote from: sorchu on 02-March-05, 08:31:58
Has anyone got problems with the 3.3v low voltage lead?
No problem but PC Alert4 shows me strange values:
3.18 for 3.3v
5.02 for 5v
N/A for 12v and when I test the 12v with another software like speedfan it shows me 10.1v and even 9.8v
But everything is fine, I don't have any strange behavior or misfunction.
I have a real buzz too, when I play 3D games or when I use my TV tuner. It's certainly a capacitor.
Sorchu, for your sys temp problem, do you remove the HDD cage?

MEGA 180 and Radeon 9800 Pro/XT

Haven't posted in a while, just wanted to spread a little good. Having a MEGA 180 is a little limiting with power supply and space issues etc but i've got a cracking setup working here :-)
I bought the MSI RX9800PRO TD128, despite a 300watt power supply warning for the card it works perfectly in the MEGA, but the good news doesn't stop there, the graphics chip is not a standard 9800PRO R350 core, for some reason it has the R360 core from the 9800XT, overclocking is a breeze with the ATI Tool. It comes default with a 378 core - 338 mem setting, I have saved a profile in ATI Tool with the XT settings of 412 core - 365 mem and they work a treat in UT, Q3, Tomb AOD and i've even stressed the card in 3DMark05 for quite some time and it just works, I dare say I could push it even higher but I'm happy getting XT performance for PRO money :-)
Overclocker New Zealand have even managed to get it up to an insane 479 core - 391.5 mem see http://www.overclockers.co.nz/ocnz/review.php?id=04vga00r9800promsi00000r9800pro0105
There is also another great thread all about this card at http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showindex.php?t=118366&highlight=rx9800
The ATI Tool is quite good, i've even created a profile for 2D that is underclocked for when I'm in windows so it keeps my system a little cooler with the XT settings set to kick in when I start up 3D, coupled with a Barton 2800+, 1Gb of PC2700 and the 120Gb Maxtor with 8Mb of cache and it is all just working well together, Win XP Pro with SP2 is rock solid, well it is for me anyway, :-)
Couple of things to know.
Win XP finds the RX as an XT, so no need to try and flash the bios, it isn't an XT PCB anyway, just an XT core.
As there is no heat sensor for the core ATIs Overdrive isn't available but you can get the ATI Tool from loads of places on the net, here is a link anyway http://www.techpowerup.com/atitool/
happy at last :-)
J.

Dont know if this will help but I had the same problem awhile back with an Asus A7N8X deluxe that I built for a friend. Sometimes it would initiate the monitor and others it would not. This drove me nuts for about a week, I tried everything that I could think of. This is what I did to remedy the situation somewhat.
Go to the ATI website and download the catalyst removal software and also download the Catalyst 3.7 driver from there "older" drivers page.
Now boot into windows and remove the ATI drivers and control panel from add remove programs, DO NOT REBOOT!
Run the ATI driver removal tool.
Shut down the machine, REMOVE THE POWER CORD,clear cmos, set the jumper for CPU fsb to 100mhz (safemode) and REMOVE your ram. Boot the machine, you will get a series of beeps indicating that the memory is not installed. Shut the machine down, REMOVE THE POWER CORD, Put the memory back in, reset the CPU fsb jumper to its normal position, and clear Cmos again. (this series of actions also solved my no display issue on my Mega 180 using the onboard graphics).
Now boot into bios and set it up the way you want then boot into windows and when windows tells you that it has found new hardware do not let it automatically install anything (cancel it). Now run the 3.7 catalyst setup and follow the instructions.
I am not sure why this worked to solve the issue but it did for me on both my Mega and the above mentioned system. I think there may be some odd conflict with the Nforce chipset and the ATI drivers and or Card bios.
Why it worked on my Mega is a mystery, I am using the onboard graphics and would have the system turn on with fans working and all but would have no display out.

Mega 180 Temps

Let me start off by saying that the Mega 180 is a great idea for a product but unfortunately it is not finished. MSI is using us as beta testers - at our expense. I build computers for people as a side business and against my better judgement, I built a customer a Mega 180 based system and I've had nothing but problems with it and it's damaging my reputation. But, OK enough of that.
One major problem with the Mega 180 is it's CPU and hard drive temp and here's what you can do to fix it. First off, the CPU heat sink is nice and big and made of copper - very nice. However, the underside of the sink (the part that touches the CPU) is absolutely aweful! The bottom should be mirror smooth. Mine looks like the surface of a record. Therefore, you need to lap it. Look this process up on the net to see exactly how to do it. Once lapped and the bottom is mirror smooth and you can see your reflection, use ARTIC SILVER thermal grease (just a tiny bit) and put the sink back on. Your CPU temp under load will be about 8 degrees cooler. Next, replace the small fan on the cooler with a bigger one (make sure you use one that's sensored, like the one you're replacing). Lastly, get some flexible ducting from the hardware store (plastic, not aluminum), attach one end over the sink's big fan and carefuly route the other end to the side of the case (may not be possible if you are using an AGP card) and position it so it sucks in outside air. Now that your CPU is cooled with fresh air, you will see another 2 - 3 degree reduction of CPU temp.
Finally, the hard drive is way too hot. I measured it with a IR temp meter after a full defrag and my jaw hit the ground when I saw how hot it was - 152 degrees F. That type of temp will kill your hard drive. Fix this by placing a fan inside the case (RAM side) blowing fresh air right onto the hard drive. This brought the temp down significantly. It also cooled other items too (CD drive, chipset).
The only downside to this is your system will be louder due to fan noise. However you will have fewer system lock-ups and mystery reboots (caused by overheated components).
One last idea, if the case is just too cramped for you, remove the power supply, buy a new one and mount it outside the case on the back. It doesn't look good but it sure frees up space and improves air flow (plus you'll have more power if you buy a higher watt supply).
Peace!

Hey cb31,
Even though this thread is about temps, I too think noise is the biggest problem with the Mega, and my current efforts are targeted at killing the constant background noise. My goal is the same as your's - I want to leave the computer on most of the time and not be bothered with it.
I'm proceeding slowly however, and so far I've only done the following:
-Replaced the 60mm Delta fan with a Papst of the exact same size. I found the Delta to be noisy, while others report that it's doing ok. Don't know about you... The Papst is really quiet and actually cools a little bit more effective, though that's a bonus feature! But on the overall it didn't have the effect I hoped for
-The smaller Delta fan (outtake side of heatsink) already is quiet enough, so doesn't need to be replaced on behalf of noise anyway...
-Took out the PSU and put White Lithium Grease in the fan for smoother operation since I figured it made a lot of noise. That didn't help much either... I'm thinking about replacing the PSU fan with something better, even though a lable on the back of the PSU states "W/ Noisekiller". It's still a no-name fan and can be improved upon.
Right now the loudest noise in my Mega doesn't seem to come from any fan at all, but rather from the hd. And it's not so much the actual noise from the unit as vibrations reverberating through the chassis. A common problem obviously, but there isn't any room for hd suspension systems in the Mega, so other actions are required here! I tried to slide in thin sheets of plastic between the drive and the cage, to act as silencers, but that didn't have any real effect as the cage touches the drive in several places, thus transfering the vibrations anyway. A new drive cage could do the trick, but I haven't gotten that far yet, and might not ever...
The Seagate Barracuda is considered to be a silent drive, so replacing it probably wouldn't help.
To conclude: If your fans are noisy, replace them or grease them for better operation, but you might not even hear the difference...
The major flaw seems to be the internal design of the Mega, and there's isn't much to be done about that, unless you're handy with a Dremel and sheets of metal. I might be, but I will have to get back to you on that!
Cheers!
-M

Mega 180/Media Player/Graphic Card/TV-Out

Hi,
after very long research I decided to use Mega 180 as a dedicated PC for media center purpose and to connect it directly to my TV (Siemens 100 Hz real flat 16:9) and to upgrade my second PC and to connect the two PCs wirelesly and to use Media Portal software.
And then I have started to read related posts and forums. But this time I learned that there are new issues I have to deal with.
1. TV-out: The TV-Out of Mega 180 is not good enough on a TV. My question is do I have to buy another powerful graphic card? I need recommendation. My TV has composite and scart inputs.
2. Media Portal: This software has lack of some features. If I use MCE 2005, will it be better?
3. If I use a video converter, will it help me to find better picture on my TV?
Yes bodies, unfortunately there is no way to find the best solution. And I am at the final stage. If this solution does not run, I will give up. I need your recommendations.

This is copied from another reply I made today. The Mega 180 can drive a TV just fine. But you need to spend alot of time making it work.
How you hook up to your TV depends on your available TV connections and your quality standard. The Mega 180 does have an SVideo output. I don't use this however. I have a VGA input port on my 42 inch plasma monitor. It accepts VGA 640 X 480, 800 x 600, or 1024 X 768 standard computer resolutions. It also accepts 480P or 1080i TV inputs using the VGA port. Many quality TV monitors have a DVI port or component video. These would require some sort of physical adapter to attach to a Mega PC.
So I actually run in 1080i mode most of the time. This makes DVD's and HDTV look really nice. When using the XP computer screen I keep it in 1080i mode but map this to 960 X 540 resolution using PowerStrip. This way I can read the text on the display without it being distorted. However this is pretty low resolution for most web browsers and email programs. So it is kind of cramped... When playing computer games I switch to 1024 X 768 computer mode. The good thing is the on board Nvidia MX440 graphics work just fine to generate all these modes. So I do not have a card in the AGP slot.

Tv-out stoped working (mega 180)

I have searched the forum for tv-out problem but did not find the same problem I have.
9600 pro fb
Mega 180
2600 barton
winxp xp2
The tv-out was working fine, but sudenly it was dead.
This happend at the same time the msi radio started after I turned on my pc, I managed to make it stop, but then the radio came on when I turned the tv mode on. But i fixed that problem to.
But the tv out wont work. But the tv does flimmer a bit when i try to connect, so there is contact. Acording to windows, a cable is not conected, but I have tried with to different cables and it worked before.
Also, the startup screen wont work on tv, not even with the monitor cable unpluged.
I use composite, no s-video on my tv.
I tried to change the gfx card in bios from agp to pci, as it was original.
This happend after I tried to make my other computer work, so I have changed the cpu and memory a bit, to see what is wrong.
But I gues there is no cable needed for tv-out that I could have taken out?
When I get home I wil try new drivers.
I gues I also could try to "turn back time" Dont know the english word for it.
In norwegian, "systemgjennomretting"
Does anyone have other sugestions?

The TV out has to be connected on startup. What to do in case you have disconnected is explained in the MEGA pdf manual you have on your CD-ROM. It comes down to setting NVidia Dualview settings again for your TV out, because it is set back to single monitor again after disconnecting it.

MEGA 180 Memory High or Low Density

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