Mega 180 Temps

Let me start off by saying that the Mega 180 is a great idea for a product but unfortunately it is not finished.  MSI is using us as beta testers - at our expense.  I build computers for people as a side business and against my better judgement, I built a customer a Mega 180 based system and I've had nothing but problems with it and it's damaging my reputation.  But, OK enough of that.
One major problem with the Mega 180 is it's CPU and hard drive temp and here's what you can do to fix it.  First off, the CPU heat sink is nice and big and made of copper - very nice.  However, the underside of the sink (the part that touches the CPU) is absolutely aweful!  The bottom should be mirror smooth.  Mine looks like the surface of a record.  Therefore, you need to lap it.  Look this process up on the net to see exactly how to do it.  Once lapped and the bottom is mirror smooth and you can see your reflection, use ARTIC SILVER thermal grease (just a tiny bit) and put the sink back on.  Your CPU temp under load will be about 8 degrees cooler.  Next, replace the small fan on the cooler with a bigger one (make sure you use one that's sensored, like the one you're replacing).  Lastly, get some flexible ducting from the hardware store (plastic, not aluminum), attach one end over the sink's big fan and carefuly route the other end to the side of the case (may not be possible if you are using an AGP card) and position it so it sucks in outside air.  Now that your CPU is cooled with fresh air, you will see another 2 - 3 degree reduction of CPU temp.
Finally, the hard drive is way too hot.  I measured it with a IR temp meter after a full defrag and my jaw hit the ground when I saw how hot it was - 152 degrees F.  That type of temp will kill your hard drive.  Fix this by placing a fan inside the case (RAM side) blowing fresh air right onto the hard drive.  This brought the temp down significantly.  It also cooled other items too (CD drive, chipset).
The only downside to this is your system will be louder due to fan noise.  However you will have fewer system lock-ups and mystery reboots (caused by overheated components).
One last idea, if the case is just too cramped for you, remove the power supply, buy a new one and mount it outside the case on the back.  It doesn't look good but it sure frees up space and improves air flow (plus you'll have more power if you buy a higher watt supply).
Peace!

Hey cb31,
Even though this thread is about temps, I too think noise is the biggest problem with the Mega, and my current efforts are targeted at killing the constant background noise. My goal is the same as your's - I want to leave the computer on most of the time and not be bothered with it.
I'm proceeding slowly however, and so far I've only done the following:
-Replaced the 60mm Delta fan with a Papst of the exact same size. I found the Delta to be noisy, while others report that it's doing ok. Don't know about you... The Papst is really quiet and actually cools a little bit more effective, though that's a bonus feature! But on the overall it didn't have the effect I hoped for  
-The smaller Delta fan (outtake side of heatsink) already is quiet enough, so doesn't need to be replaced on behalf of noise anyway...
-Took out the PSU and put White Lithium Grease in the fan for smoother operation since I figured it made a lot of noise. That didn't help much either... I'm thinking about replacing the PSU fan with something better, even though a lable on the back of the PSU states "W/ Noisekiller". It's still a no-name fan and can be improved upon.
Right now the loudest noise in my Mega doesn't seem to come from any fan at all, but rather from the hd. And it's not so much the actual noise from the unit as vibrations reverberating through the chassis. A common problem obviously, but there isn't any room for hd suspension systems in the Mega, so other actions are required here! I tried to slide in thin sheets of plastic between the drive and the cage, to act as silencers, but that didn't have any real effect as the cage touches the drive in several places, thus transfering the vibrations anyway. A new drive cage could do the trick, but I haven't gotten that far yet, and might not ever...
The Seagate Barracuda is considered to be a silent drive, so replacing it probably wouldn't help.
To conclude: If your fans are noisy, replace them or grease them for better operation, but you might not even hear the difference...
The major flaw seems to be the internal design of the Mega, and there's isn't much to be done about that, unless you're handy with a Dremel and sheets of metal.  I might be, but I will have to get back to you on that!
Cheers!
-M

Similar Messages

  • "Easy" way to lower MEGA 180 CPU Temp

    Let me start off by saying I haven't done this yet but I think it would work.  I built a Mega 180 based machine for a customer and have had nothing but problems with it.  I got a call from her last night to tell me that the CPU temp on the display is in the 70 C range and she is getting nervous about it (frankly, so am I).  I'm picking up the PC from her in a few days to see if I can lower the CPU temp any.  Here's what I'm thinking of doing:
    1) Since I already lapped the bottom of the heatsink and used Artic Silver thermal grease, there's nothing else I can do in that area.  It's already optimal.
    2) The heatsink is 100% copper with lots of cooling fins.  There isn't a better thermal material for a heatsink, within reason.  Aluminum is no good.  Basically, the design of the heatsink is good, but not perfect.  First, why they would design the sink to suck hot air off of the video card and blow it through the fins is beyond me.  Naturally, the CPU will never be cooler than the air that's being used to cool it.  The heat sink needs fresh, cool air.
    3) To provide the heatsink with fresh cool air I plan on first, turing the big fan on the sink around so it blows out, not in.  Second, I plan on replacing the little fan with a bigger fan and position it so it blows in, not out.  Then I plan on making a short duct that attaches over the fan on the right (with the front of the PC facing you) and extend the duct a few inches to the right so it is less than an inch from the side of the case.  Lastly, I plan on using some lexan and making a very small deflector to put on the heatsink's exhaust fan.  It will be about 1/2 inch wide and as long as the fan (80mm?).  It will be tilted at a 45 degree angle.  The deflector will channel the hot air away from the video card and towards the front left side of the case.  This will avoid trading one heat problem (CPU) for another (video card).
    If all goes well, a drop of 10 C under maximum load should be achieved.  I'll let you know how this turns out.
    I may also try the following:
    1) Buy some RAM heat sinks and using thermal glue, glue them to the hard drive.
    2) Position a 40mm fan so it blows on the heat sinks on the hard drive.
    3) Position another 40mm fan so it blows across the chipset's heat sink.

    god damn thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that  
    I lapped my heatsink last weekend, the hardware store where i got my sand paper didnt have any grid over 600 so I had to settle with that.  But I'm still pleased with the results. I figured that that plus some some Artic Silver 5 would get me a bit on my way.
    I would have documented it with my camera if the batteries just wasnt out :/
    At the same time I installed a "silent" 15db@1500rpm 80x80mm Everflow fan on the left side of the case (when facing the front) that blows the air in. All of these efforts improved the temperature just a bit. The noise increased a bit but it isnt all that much trouble consithering I've spent my last couple of months with my ears next to a server that has the lovely sound level of around 60db (note: no case fans on the server at all)
    As I recall the idle temperature used to be over 60c and now it sometimes drops below 50c. But most of the times its around 53-55c (all of this is at around 25c ambient temperature). But the heat problem while gaming is still a huge problem. When it hits around 70 the computer crashes.
    But before my efforts to do something about it, it would die within 10min of high load. Now it can take up to about an hour (depending on how the ambient temperature is).
    Next up I think I'm gonna try out your idea. Switch the fans, and maybe even install another Everflow fan having 4 fans totaly pulling the air through the case (but from right to left this time :P)
    why call it MSI Entertainment Gaming Applicance if you cant entertain yourself by gaming on it ? =P
    /Wezz

  • MEGA 180: A story of stupidity mixed up with bad product design

    This is more for a word of caution to Mega180 users and future owners.
    A bit angry as I managed to burn ( physically ) 2 harddrives  because of carefulness about 10 mins.
    Spend quite some time looking for a SATA to ATI power converter while looking for a solution to CPU temp problem. Could not find one ( and  I don't know if any one does it )
    As my old HD did not start the OS on Mega180 for some data transfer I was not able to use my USB external HD. So I decided to connect old HD as slave and do a HD to HD transfer. Here comes the bad design, the HD connection cable specifies a slot for a slave HD however there is only one power connector (ATI) for supported IDE HD. and there is a useless SATA power connector,it is useless as MEGA 180 does not support SATA.
    Here comes the stupidity, for a min I came up with the bright idea of using the CD drives power connector ( I now remember that I ruled this option earlier, I wish I remembered it all along) As there is always a current on this cable (when there is a power connection - for the HIFI mode to work ) I guess some static electricity effected my HD. Not having realised the HD is already affected, I swapped the cables as the HD connection cable is not long enough to keep 2 HDs in a steady state.
    As a result both my HDs are now not working, when I tried the original master HD I was horrified to see a spark and some fume  
    I wish I never tried to use my old graphics card - which I wanted only for the DVI support. This led to CPU temperatures of average 70 degree celcius and when I ever I tried to use the PC properly I was had to turn it off due to extreme temperatures over 75 degree celcius.
    All I was after is a troublefree smooth working nice looking PC, yet I am stuck now... I am both upset for the data I lost as well as hours I spend in trying to put this thing together. I will decide in the morning to return or keep the product. If I keep it the next challenge will be getting my external HD to run an OS as I need to save up again to buy a new HD, I was hoping my next HD would be a SATA one :(
    This is definately a bitter lesson. Such a pity that with just a little more effort MSI could have really improved the profuct most are listed here but I want to summarise:
    1. before getting the new product out try fitting a new graphics card and a TV card and operate both for 2 hours... That is if you could fit them both in the first reason why you could not is the cables from power supply is unnecessarily long for supplying power to the board and unsuitably located. the best you could do is place them all infront of the cpu fan.
    2. It is really great to have detachable ODD and HD yet Floppy drive ( card reader ) bay is static
    3. a better location for CPU or card slots would have contributed to airflow far more.
    Better close here... I am still not sure if positives of the product companates all the negatives.  

    Simply, be aware that the power cable for the CDRom is live most all the time that your backpanel power cord is plugged in. Its for the support of CD/MP3 in HI-Fi mode. If you shut down your system, and not unplug the power, and you try to connect or disconnect anything to the IDE cable, and you are using the power cable for the CD, you can cause static/surging on the component you are hooking up....
    If you must hookup an alternate drive [slave] for data dumping/imaging etc. use a Y cable from the HDD power cable. It only activates when the PC power switch is utilized....

  • Things to Know Before Building Your Mega 180

    Some people have asked me for a list of tips so here is my attempt---I'll ask Wonk to sticky it if it turns out OK....
    Feel free to PM me with more tips---I'll add as necessary....
    TIP SHEET FOR THE MEGA 180:
    So you bought that new Mega 180 and the docs leave a lot to be desired......Don't panic!!  Take a look at this tip sheet.  Should save you a lot of hours!
    RAM AND PROCESSOR:
    Several things here.....If you are going to use onboard video----you should NOT use higher RAM than PC 2700----waste of money to buy higher as the Nforce2 18G "Crush" was only designed to run no higher than with DDR333 RAM (PC2700).  Nvidia warns against it on their site.  I have personally experienced a LOT of problems when you try to run the onboard at DDR 400 (PC3200)----trashed Bios in most cases.  Also---the 18G and to some extent---"Dual Channel" is picky about memory----try to get a matched pair of DIMMS----and if you REALLY want to be on the safe side----go to Nvidias site and look up the page that lists known, compatable memory with the NForce2 chipsetNforce2 compatable memory.  I use A-Data 512 sticks---but they are hard to find.
    If you are going to use a Vidcard---then higher memory is just fine----but if you are NOT planning on overclocking-----there is really NO need for higher than PC2700 as the default bus for Barton 2800+ and below is FSB 166 (DDR333---PC 2700).
    Alyways run your RAM (Synch) 100%---do not play with dividers if you are using the onboard video.  If you have no clue what I just said----you are fine as the defaults will take care of this----this last was for overclockers.
    Processor----I like the cost of the Barton 2800+ right now----fast, cheap and even using the onboard and no overclocking----you have a fast machine that can do anything.  The 2800+ also leaves the door open for a slight overclock (I have not tried this yet) without too much stress on anything.
    LCD PANEL:
    Do Not----I say again----Do Not use the "welcome.exe" program----or ANY other program on ANY disk or the MSI website to do ANYTHING to your front panel.  That program is for the Mega 651 model and WILL TRASH YOUR LCD.  The LCD panel works just fine----it doesn't need any updating.
    If this advice is to late, the firmware fix is in here:
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=46355&sid=
    Do download and install the latest version of PC Alert MSI Mega 180 Downloads----works great with the front LCD panel and displays PC info nicely.
    Use the EQ mode buttons while playing in the HiFi mode----changes the sound a lot and also the display changes------COOL!
    OPTICAL DRIVE:
    Use an MSI optical drive----basically anything from MSI will work fine---some other drives are reported to work fine like a NEC 2500A----but if you use an MSI drive----you can't go wrong.  You might want to put the drive in another machine with a floppy first----and download and update that drive to the latest firmware (most will require a floppy to do that and the Mega 180 has none.)
    CABLE MANAGEMENT:
    Buy a dollar pack of cable ties and go to work-----make sure ALL cables are away from the front of the intake fan for the CPU----you want a very clear path to the cooler.  Less clutter---better airflow.  Better airflow----lower temps.
    CPU INSTALL:
    Get rid of the MSI thermal grease with some Goof Off or acetone-----and get some good Arctic Silver 3, AS5 or AS Ceramique.  Clean both the chip top and the bottom of the HS with denatured alcohol before applying the thermal grease.  You might also want to lapp the bottom of the HS which is not very well done----but I found it not necessary.  The HS/Fan unit is very easy to install----just rotate your screw down points as perscribed by the sticker on the cooler----don't tighten one screw all the way down----then go to the next.
    DRIVERS:
    I found the drivers on the install disk to be non-functional---- get the latest drivers from the MSI website (you can use Live Update for this) or go to http://www.nforcershq.com and get the latest Nforce2 Driver Remix from Morpheus1 or Mwarhead.
    DO NOT use the Nvidia SW IDE driver (say "No" when it asks you in the driver install)  Only use the ITB (In The Box) IDE driver----it's the default driver.  Your Optical device will probably not function correctly (eject, etc) with the Nvidia SW IDE driver.
    Nforce2 SoundStorm Drivers are a tricky topic----there are TONS of versions out there.... I've had the best luck so far with Drivers 4.31 (Off Microsoft Windows Updates---it was a Driver Update) and Audio Control Panel 4.31.  Nvidia has a driver update package now JUST for audio-----posted Here
    If you are having problems with Media Center III crashing----it seems to be a conflict between the SoundStorm Drivers and Media Center III,  Uninstall your Nvidia audio devices in the device manager (Three of them----there is one hidden---so go to view and "show hidden devices")  then reboot and let Windows rerecognize your devices and reload drivers.  This will solve most problems until Media Center II has another bad crash----in which case---you may have to do this procedure over again.  You can tell if it's really hosed up because the radio sound will come on automatically at boot----or you will have lost the SoundStorm Control Panel Icon in the SysTray.  I'm working on different versions of SoundStorm to see which works best---will update if I find anything new.  (Update)----4.31 seems to be the best but I still can'ttotally eliminate the crashing in Media Center III.
    Once you get your Lan device up and running (or your modem) Go to Windows Update and make sure you are completly updated with all latest window updates---If using WinXP-----you need to be at WinXP ServPack 1a when you are done.
    Use Windows Cleanup and Defrag when you are done----ESPECIALLY cleanup---to get rid of any left over temp files in the Mega----To get the BEST and most optimised defrag----run windows defrag at least three times in a row----maybe more----it will REALLY optimise the drive.
    TV CARD:
    The main TV Card designed for the Mega 180 is the MSI 8606-40 Mega TV Card----be careful to get it vice the other version of the MSI 8606 which is the MSI 8606-10 TV@anywhere Master.
    The Mega TV Card does not include a Radio while the 8606-10 DOES include a radio.  Since your Mega 180 already has a radio----you absolutely don't need or want the 8606-10 TV@anywhere Master.
    Do NOT use any drivers or software you receive with the Mega TV Card MSI 8606-40----just set the disks aside.  You will ONLY uses the drivers off the Mega 180 Install Disk.
    The Mega TV Card MUST be installed before the menu item for "Install TV Tuner Drivers" becomes visible on the Mega 180 install disk.
    Make sure your TV Card is hooked into the line called "Remote Control" within the Mega 180 itself----there is a small 3 inch connecting wire in the TV card box.
    The TV and Radio function well with the remote----but you must have MSI Media Center III installed.  I could not get the TV or the Radio to work without Media Center III.
    Upon initial setup of the TV within Media Center III---you may have to switch the source between cable and antenna to get the initial channels to auto scan.  Once done auto scanning---switch back to cable as source (assuming you have cable).
    Using the remote to force the TV screen to full screen:  When you use the up/down arrows on the remote----watch the menu items on the screen----the various menu item buttons will highlight as you hit the arrows.
    Once you have highlighted the little arrow button on the lower right of the screen----just below the TV display (it will turn green)----hit the ENTER key
    It goes to widescreen----hit the ENTER key again------it goes to fullscreen
    BTW, the remote works fine-----the trick is you HAVE to have Media Center III installed and available to be called for it to control the TV Card----Radio Etc.  It will start up normally when you push the TV button on the remote.
    BIOS SETTINGS:
    The defaults will mostly work.  One thing----to get BEST performance out of the NForce 2 Onboard video----set AGP to 128 and Set Frame Buffer to 128----I had crashes with almost any other video setting.  I'm still playing with PCI clock, voltages, and some other settings to get better stability-----will let you know.....
    6 CHANNEL SOUND
    Use all three ports in the back of the Mega 180 and then configure it using the SoundStorm Control Panel----Use the "Speaker Setup Wizard".  Check and adjust using the "Test Tone" button.  I'm using an inexpensive set of Analog Altec Lansing 5.1s----the sound is excellent.
    That's all for now----tell me what else you've found and I'll post.
    John

    My MSI MEGA 180 has a strange display on the monitor.
    I opened the boxed removed all items.
    Installed the CPU (supported on the CPU compatability list for the MSI MEGA 180), installed the heatsink & fan.
    Installed the HD drive.
    Installed the MSI DVD+/-RW
    Installed 1 DIMM module of DDR RAM PC2700 333MHZ 1GB
    Pushed the Power button for the PC and the desplay is corrupted.
    I tried the 4 possible configurations for Jumpers 7 and 8 to alter the FSB speed with no luck.
    I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations without having the HDD and DVD-RW drives connected - same result.
    I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations with the Secondary VGA output connected to my monitor.
    I also tried the 4 different J7 and J8 configurations with the S-Video output connected to my TV and no signal at all.
    Both my monitor and HDD work fine with my other PC.
    I noticed the jumper pins are not numbered - made the configuration job a bit more tedious.
    Please note the LCD screen works correctly, however the redio tuner in HiFi mode doesn't pick up any local stations.
    As I am a Software Test Engineer, I am 100% confident I have checked all possible configurations including clearing the CMOS, but the system simply will not display to the VDU. The POST should at least be visible when Power is turned on for the PC mode.
    NOTE: I will update the RAM Brand as soon as I find out the title from the supplier, but I believe it is OEM.
    NOTE II: this is the URL to the CPU used: http://www.excaliberpc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1798
    PLeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesssss ssssssssssssssssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eee  help ease my pain!!

  • Cd rom boot problems with MEGA 180

    I recently recieved my MEGA 180 and have been unable to successfully install an OS because when I boot from CD, the computer freezes at various stages of installation. The point at which it freezes varies between the point at which the CD is initialized to anywhere in the windows xp setup process up untill the drive format. Occassionally the lockup coincides with an error copying a file, but this is not consistent. I have tried two different cd-rom drives as well as three different xp installation cds. Further I have run with 5 different sticks of ram (kingston and corsair). None of these changes have had any obvious effect.
    Having read the warning labes regarding non MSI optical devices, I am tempted to think that may be the problem as I am not running on an MSI drive. However, the warning souned like it was about mechanical parts and thus I assume the ability of a drive to fit in the MEGA 180 case while opening and closing correctly.
    I would appreciate any input you might have on this matter as I am finding this experience rather frustrating.

    I had the exact same problem when upgrading from a 2100+ Palamino processor to a 2800+ Thoroghbred one. The screen had already dissappeared due to powering up with no monitor plugged in, so I tried a reinstall of Windows XP. It kept falling over randomly during the install process. I then swapper the CPU back and had no problems at all. I have since lapped the heatsink and reduced the FSB to 157MHz in the BIOS, and have not had a problem with the 2800+ CPU. I have not tried installing windows again, but feel this will be OK too.
    My test is to run FujiFilm Snapshot Slideshow, which sends the CPU temp rocketting. I have found that when it goes above 70 C it starts getting unstable. I throttled the FSB back to 157MHz and it does not get to 70 C any more. In normal operation it never gets above 60 C, so I don't know why the slideshow takes so much CPU power  

  • Mega 180 - onboard soundcard is gone???

    Hello there!
    I've turned on my Mega 180 this morning,and the Windows couldn't see my onboard soundcard.
    I've checked in the BIOS,it's turned on.
    Last night everything was allright.
    What could be this???

    Quote from: gibbon75 on 29-July-05, 17:54:55
    I disconnected the smaller CPU fan,and the northbridge fan,because the bearings are too noisy 
    My temps remain the same 
    Yes, I also removed the SYS fan (northbridge fan) and the temps remained the same (really rare, sure). If you have an AGP card or usually play games (using the onboards gfx), consider installing a little fan besides the radio module to extract hot air or your temps will dramatically raise.

  • Compact Flash Drives/Other Probs Mega 180

    I've had my MEGA 180 for almost two weeks and like many here it has been a pain in my butt.
    After reformatting and installing the software in a certain order I finally got my system somewhat stable, but I am running into new issues now.
    My compact flash drives no longer show up in my computer, I can't find them in Device Manager either.  Also every now and then my network card will only send not receive.  Tried different cables and it's no help.  It may also be my cable modem, but I don't know.
    I'm not running the nForce IDE SW driver because if I do I get the eject button lock-up problem people are having, but the performance leaves something to be desired.
    My PC Alert also died, it was working fine.  Now if it is allowed to boot it will not completely load its GUI and begin to say my CPU is running way hotter than it is and after a minute of 100% CPU it will cut off my computer if not killed.  I just un-installed it for now.  The funny thing is, their Fuzzy Logic program works for getting the temps.
    I'm in a back and forth email wth MSI Taiwan right now, but I don't see it going anywhere.  Hoping like everyone else these issues can be fixed with driver and BIOS updates.  I would be EXTREMELY unhappy to have to go through an RMA process even with companies that have good RMA policies.
    As far as their bundled software, MSI Media Center is the biggest POS I have ever used.  I am currently using ShowShifter and it works REALLY well with my 8606 master tuner.
    Enough ranting for now, if anybody else has similar problems, let me know.  If you have solutions EVEN BETTER!  

    xp sp1a, all patches, etc.
    PC4000 (yes overkill, but I got a good deal on it)
    I had 2700 in it and it still acted the same way so I doubt memory is the problem.
    Now my damn tv tuner is being an ass and is making it so I can only view the cable right in RGB24, not the default YUY2.  In YUY2 it is almost like the brightness settings/contrast settings are all wrong, but adjusting them doesn't do anything.  It worked this morning.
    If I had a dollar for everytime I had said "it worked this morning" with this thing I'd be able to buy something else.

  • Heatsink Lapping and 180 Temp

    HI guys, in the last week i have accumulated a mega 180 and am in the process of reducing its temp.
    What do u guys suggest, and what the hell is lapping, can someone point me in the right direction
    thanks

    Lapping is polishing your heatsink to mirror finish (with sand paper)
    then applying thermal paste (Arctic 5) and then praying the temperatures go down, since the thermal conduitivity (sp?) is increased.
    http://www.bigbruin.com/html/lapping-guide.htm
    or do a google search, you should find enough when you enter guide+lapping
    http://www.google.nl/search?hl=nl&q=lapping+guide&lr=
    Ray

  • Mega 180 voltage problem

    Dear all,
    I just bought this Mega 180 with Athlon 3000+, 1G RAM, using the onboard graphics card.
    I took the advice in this forum and reverse the fans direction, although it decreased the cpu temp by 3-4C, but it increased the sys as much as 8C...  I think it's something which we need to be aware of since the cpu certainly can torlerate higher temp than, say the board and harddisk...
    OK, let's talk about my problem, two days ago, when I was running sandra 2005 ram/cpu benchmark, PC alert 4 warns me that the 3.3V supply is too low, it drops down to 2.8V once...
    My initial thought was that it's because of the high internal temp which gives extra resistance to the board circuit, but after I reverse back the fan, it still stays around 3.13V... which by the ATX standard (3.3V + or - 5%) it's still dangerously low...
    Can anyone here share what their voltages are? and does anyone knows whether my voltage would have any negative effects?
    Another observation to the Mega180, I hear some little buzzing noise when I run the cpu/ram intensively, is it normal?
    Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated, thx
    Kevin

    Quote from: sorchu on 02-March-05, 08:31:58
    Has anyone got problems with the 3.3v low voltage lead?
      No problem but PC Alert4 shows me strange values:
    3.18 for 3.3v
    5.02 for 5v
    N/A for 12v and when I test the 12v with another software like speedfan it shows me 10.1v and even 9.8v
    But everything is fine, I don't have any strange behavior or misfunction.
    I have a real buzz too, when I play 3D games or when I use my TV tuner. It's certainly a capacitor.
    Sorchu, for your sys temp problem, do you remove the HDD cage?

  • Argh! My MSI Mega 180 keeps turning itself off! Help!

    :angryfire:I'm pretty sure it's a heat issue. I checked the temps and when my system reaches 50C it just turns off. I have did everything this link tells me to do- https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threadid=51357&sid=&hilight=mega+180+heat  yet I still have issues. I put two fans in front of it and the computer still continues to run hot and shut off once it hit 50C.
    My Specs are-athlon xp 3000+,512mb DDR PC2700 PNY ram,80 gig HD,on board graphics card, and a 48x cdrw,dvd.
    Please help.

    Ok, I had a feeling this was the case. At this stage is there anyone you know that has computer experence ? If so I would suggest this might be the best option as 2 heads can be better than one. However if you don't have someone then sit down with the manual and read it. The manual (the one on the CD) should has a in depth section on the BIOS where it will tell you what each setting does, it should also tell you what you can change. I saying should because my cmputer is the 685 and not the 180 so mine will be different. So read the manual and then reply back.

  • New MSI Mega 180: Some problems...

    I've just bought a new MSI Mega 180... and I've come up with some problems:
    I can't get the radio to be detected in windows... not sure why. When I load, radio webupdate, it comes up with: Cannot find radio module.
    I can't get into the Wireless configuration monitor. If you select Gateway or AP mode, and then hit configure, it comes up with a pw prompt, and I can't find what to put in there... that's driving me nuts...
    When I'm running windows, the front panel is compleatly black, should it be showing anything?

    Quote
    When I'm running windows, the front panel is compleatly black, should it be showing anything?
    The clock should be on or if you installed PC Alert it would show the CPU temp. and stuff like that. I think media centre 3 shows something on the display (I can't get it installed)
    Can't answer your other questions.

  • Fanless external watercooling into Mega 180 ??

    yep, yep,
    This Mega 180 pc keeps us busy, however in general I am pretty satisfied, especially the sound and the looks are great...
    Although the temps are a little bit worrying me, yesterday I was hitting the 71 degrees Celsius (CPU) !!
    Searching for some solutions I have seen some tips & tricks in this forum to keep the temps down, but most of them include rebuilding the pc or a part of it. And actually I am not familiair with these kind of actions and affraid of destroying some parts, so I was wondering about another possible solution.
    Than I noticed the Zalman Reserator, this is a fanless external water cooling system, so no noise. Looks interesting...only the question is could the water block with the silicon tube possibly fit into the Mega 180 ???
    Please check yourself and give me some usefull feedback if you have any...
    http://test.zalman.co.kr/english/product/Reserator1.htm
    .

    I believe you need a lot bigger PSU if a peltier is used.
    As anakin14 says its a bit risky with water but nowadays when the cooling system is fabricated the risk are less than before in the old days when you use a Chevrolet radiator outside and a garden hose in the computer.
    Interesting thing that Zalman stuff you've linked...........hmm

  • Odd Behaviour of Mega 180 SYS Fan

    a while ago I posted a thread about weird thing going on with the so-called SYS fan of my Mega. "So-called"because it is actually attached to the CPU heatsink...
    At that time it seemed that problem with it (not working) was actually caused by the stupid me playing around with rpm thresholds/limits in the PC Alert thing (at least I couldn't think of any other reason), and that problem was solved by clearing CMOS eventually.
    Now this issue popped up again (although I am quite sure I haven't touched these lovely settings in PC Alert), nor modified anything in BIOS setup since restoring the "right" settings after the above-mentioned CMOS clearing.
    And, you know what - problem is GONE (!!!)  after you merely shut the machine down and disconnect the power cord for 10 secs...
    All I can say now is -
    !!! what a wonderful piece of machinery is Mega 180!!!
    Quite literally - full of wonders...

    Quote
    Originally posted by jon23
    Could it be a fulty fan and the restarting of the system is putting more power in it and starting it up again.    (ie tackie or a bad spot)
    I don't think so, it rather looks like a matter of control... System reaches the "high" temps well after the PSU is running at normal load.
    The behaviour pattern looks like this:
    a) initially this fan works as it probably should - going with full revs at CPU temp =74 oC, slowing down (not stopping) when CPU temp drops to 70 oC
    b) after a while - (month or so) the SYS fan does not slow down anymore when CPU temp drops
    c) at the end it also does not start on high revs anymore , at least not until PC shuts down due to CPU overheating (threshold set to 76 oC at the moment)
    d) return to state/step a) can be done by unplugging the power cord for a short while

  • Mega 180 turned itself off

    ok so i was using my comp and it just turned off all of the sudden and wouldnt go bak on when i pressed the power button
    so i unpluged the cable and now it goes bak on
    i am woundering y this happened?
    i dont think its overheating cuz before it turned off the cpu temp was around 50 degrees which is pretty normal
    and its mega 180, amd xp 3000+ barton, maxtor 120gb hd, 2x256 ram, benq cdrw
    any help is appreciated, thanks

    I have this problem too.
    I get it in both Linux (Ubuntu Hoary Hedgehog) and XP (SP2).
    I have not found the cause or any soloution key.
    Next time I am in windows I will update my bios.

  • Mega problems with new Mega 180 - Help, please!

    Hello everyone. I recently built a MEGA 180 system for a customer of mine, and have been having NOTHING but problems with it. First off, during the Windows XP PRo install, I'll often receive errors stating that certain files cant be copied, and I'll have to hit enter several times before the file will copy. I've replaced the CD-ROM with an MSI model, and used a different XP CD, and still receive these errors during install pretty often. Secondly, once I get everything installed, I'll get numerous program errors in XP (usually explorer.exe and iexplore.exe, but pretty much every program crashes sometimes). I've used a different HD, different RAM, and I've formatted the HD and reinstalled XP at least 6 times, and am STILL having problems. Im a computer tech, and fairly proficient at building PCs, though this is my first SFF pc I've built. Im really at my wits end here, and am not sure where else to go for ideas on what this can be. I've submitted an online help ticket with MSI, but I wanted to see if you guys had any ideas in the meantime. System specs are as follows:
    MSI Mega 180
    AMD XP 2800+ CPU (I used artic silver, btw)
    512MB Corsair XMS PC3200 RAM (I also used 512MB GEIL PC3200 Golden Dragon)
    80GB Western Digital HD
    MSI CD-RW/DVD-ROM combo drive
    average temp under load: 50c
    average temp idle: 36c
    Thanks in advance guys!
    Rheq

    Well, hrmm... :noidea:I know when I built my Mega180 I didn't have those problems at least, so it's hard to pinpoint.  My bets are toward the memory (although you did swap it out, so that's what bugs me with my thought on that).  My next guess would be the MoBo itself (which would be an MSI replace basically as there isn't much leeway for a different board for that case (or getting it out  ).  I am shocked, however, that you have your sys temps so low.  I have an Athlon XP 2700+ (333 FSB, Thunderbird) and my temps go around 60C with the case open and a small room fan blowing through the case...for now).  Do you mind telling me how you got your system so cool?  I've been considering the Koolance Exos watercooling just to bring this system to stable, lower temps [but I've never dealt with watercooling yet  )  Of course, sys temps have always been by biggest problem.
    Sorry if this wasn't a big help, but the randomness of the errors seems to lean towards the memory/mobo...possibly the HDD I suppose.  Does it still receive errors when not dealing with an optical disc (CD or DVD)?  If so, that definitely rules out the optical as the only problem (it may still be a problem, but it wouldn't be the only one at least).

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