Mesh 1510's in 4.2.176.0? Security release notes say it.....

The security notes from yesterday are saying that customers with 1510s Mesh APs on 4.1M Mesh code, are recommended to upgrade to 4.2.176.0. If you have 1520s, recommended to upgrade to 5.2.
But 4.2.176.0 doesn't support mesh last I heard.
So which is it? Does Mesh work in 4.2.176? Or does it not?
Are they suggesting to upgrade your 4.1.185 to 4.2 but still leave the 4.1M code...?

There is supposed to be a 4.2 MESH code released, that will support the 1510, BUT NOT!! the 1520. Keep watching CCO for the release, as I am not sure of the timeframe. Oh, and see you on the 16th.
HTH,
Steve

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    We have WLC 4402 software version 4.2.207.0 and LWAP 1510
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    Currrently my network is running several wisim for my indoor wireless no mesh solution. with code 4.2.207.0 .
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    the 1522
    now according to the document the options i have is 4.1.192.35M
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    now i am runnning wcs 4.2.110.0
    i would like to keep the same version in the indor ap and perhaps use version
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    has anyone in this forum have both mesh and no mesh controllers?
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    i want to avoid upgrading WCS, as well as the controllers service indor AP.

    Mesh is supported up to 4.2.176.51M.
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    You should be able to have mesh and non mesh controllers in the same mobility group, and you can keep 4.1.192.35M if you want.
    5.2.193.0 is not a MESH code that I am aware of, as there is no mesh code after 4.2 of my knowledge.
    If you want to use 4.1.192.35M Mesh and 4.2.207.0, then you need WC 4.2.128.0. The upgrade from 4.2.110.0 should take you about 10 minutes and will not loose any data, you will need to upgrade your WCS for this scenario to wok as 4.1.192.35M was released AFTER 4.2.110.0 but BEFORE 4.2.128.0
    HTH

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  • Upgrade wlc 2106 for mesh

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  • WLC mesh upgrade

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    Hi Max,
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  • Cropping Gradient Mesh

    Is there anyway to crop a gradient mesh which, in essence, acts like a masked gradient mesh, but actually trims all the excess?
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  • Mesh gradients using pantone colors

    Hi,
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    1) if I fill an object with a single Pantone color, create a mesh gradient from it using a variety of different opacity settings, say 100%, 50% and 25%, then play around with the mesh handles to produce a pleasant, mixed background, will a gradient of this type work for screen printing? I don't know if a gradient of this type will require halftones, as a linear or radial gradient would.
    2) it's my understanding that when you prepare artwork for screen printing using spot colors, each color should be on its own layer. In an attempt to add highlights or shadows to an object, if I copy an object and paste it in front of itself, then apply a gradient using another Pantone spot color, say Pantone Process Black(100% to 0% opacity), does it matter what the blending mode is? Obviously you'll get different results based on the option you choose, but again, I'm concerned here only with screen printing. I can then place the gradient on the Black layer.
    The problem is that I'm familiar with off-set printing, and apparently gradients have to be converted into halftones when screen printing, so I'm trying to figure out the best way of creating shadows and highlights.
    Thanks for any help you can provide.
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    Mark,
    Getting your head around a few age-old fundamental repro principles will clarify this stuff for you:
    First and foremost: Think in terms of INKS, not "colors." Take off your designer hat and think like a mechanic. You're dealing with real-world substances: scoops of thick, gooey, solid-color ink that will be squished onto some object.
    Line Art: Artwork designed to be reproducable using only areas of solid ink coverage. No graduations of any kind whatsoever. In other words, nothing but 100% "tint" (often called "solid") of the ink(s).
    Tint Screens: Uniform coverage of a given ink, but at any percentage other than 100%.
    Continuous-Tone Artwork (often called "contone"): Anything involving varying percentages of a given ink, be it a "grayscale" gradauation of a single ink or graduation involving two or more inks.
    Halftone: A photomechanical process used to distribute small dots (or lines, or some other pattern) of ink so as to SIMULATE tints and/or gradations. That's the important concept: There are no "graduated inks." Any given location on the final print either has ink or it has no ink on it. The ink is always a solid color. So anything other than the actual color of the solid (100%) ink is a mere SIMULATION.  That simulation requires that the ink be laid down as a series of tiny dots (or array of lines, etc.) so as to suggest things other than the 100% color of the actual, physical ink that is loaded into the press (or silkscreen).
    Spot-color (opaque) versus process-color (translucent) is a SEPARATE ISSUE from line art (no tone screening) versus contone art (tone screening required). You are confusing those two separate and distinct issues.
    Now put this in the context of screen printing:
    All artwork involving  tints or continuous tone requires halftoning. Compared to offset lithography, screen printing is very limited in its ability to handle halftoning. Many small local screen printing shops can't do halftoning at all. Typical medium-size screen printing shops (local T-shirt shops, etc.) can often do halftoning at a very course frequency (i.e.; large dots), often no smaller than 30~50 Lines Per Inch (LPI), and both color fidelity and sharpness suffer. Only larger and more sophisticated screen printing shops, running expensive, high-end automated equipment utilizing very fine screen mesh fabrics can reliably hold small halftone dots and consistently maintain color.
    Bottom line: The way you prepare artwork for screen printing is highly dependent upon the kind of shop that will be doing the printing.
    Screen printing is done on a wide variety of materials (substrates). Substrates are quite often not white. They are often dark. So spot color inks designed for screen printing are usually very opaque. That puts them in a whole other world from the almost-always translucent inks of offset lithography, AND from the real world that Illustrator's interface is capable of simulating. Illustrator does not provide any means by which to specify the real-world opacity of a Spot Color Swatch. So when you use blends, grads, and overprinting, Illustrator cannot do a good job of simulating what you will actually see in the final screen printed results.
    Bottom Line: If you are building continuous-tone artwork involving blends, grads, tints, etc. (i.e.; anything requiring halftoning) and/or overprinting, you need some real-world experience to reasonably well anticipate how your halftoned artwork is going to look when printed. Best advice is to start simple. Design around your limitations, and those of the screen shop you will be using. Limit your designs to spot colors and entirely line art.
    Now to your specific questions:
    I'm struggling to create gradients for screen printing purposes.
    Grads are going to require halftoning. Have you asked your screen printer what halftone frequency (LPI) he is able to reliably hold?
    The artwork will be printed on 12oz canvas using 3-4 pantone spot colors.
    Understand: Pantone is a company. The Pantone company publishes its own standardized formulae for its own branded inks, which are offset lithography inks, not silkscreen inks. In other words, it's just a commonly-used color reference. You would be better off refering to actual color swatches of the actual screen printing inks your screen printer will be using. Set up your Spot Color Swatches in Illustrator corresponding to the actual inks.
    1) if I fill an object with a single Pantone color, create a mesh gradient from it...
    Always state WHAT VERSION of Illustrator you are using. Grad mesh did not always support spot colors. Blends still don't.
    ...using a variety of different opacity settings, say 100%, 50% and 25%...
    Don't confuse "opacity" with "tints." What Illustrator calls "opacity" and "transparency" usually involves rasterization and/or conversion to process color.
    ... then play around with the mesh handles to produce a pleasant, mixed background, will a gradient of this type work for screen printing?
    It will work for screen printing IF:
    The particular screen printing setup adequately supports halftoning.
    The mesh is built appropriately for the color separation model (spot, process, or process-plus-spot) that will be used to print it. Again, you have to be aware of the number of INKS that you are designing for, and make sure your design does not require more than that when it is color-separated (think "ink-separated").
    Current version Illustrator provides a color-separation preview feature, which can save you alot of grief if you use it. If using an earlier version, but have Acrobat Pro, save the file as a PDF, open it in Acrobat, and use its Separation Preview feature. If using an earlier version and do not have Acrobat Pro, "print" as color-separations to a PDF virtual printer like Adobe PDF. Then open the PDF in Reader and study the separate pages. (Screen print jobs are, in fact, often delivered as such a pre-separated PDF.) 
    I don't know if a gradient of this type will require halftones, as a linear or radial gradient would.
    Based on the above, you should now know that. Yes, ANYTHING that involves graduated color requires (at least a simulation of) "graduated ink". Since "graduated ink" does not exist, halftoning (or some other kind of tone screening--there are others) is required in order to simulate it.
    2) it's my understanding that when you prepare artwork for screen printing using spot colors, each color should be on its own layer.
    No. Absolute nonsense. (Don't believe everything you find written by self-proclaimed "experts" or "tutors" on the web, no matter how fancy you think their demonstrations are.) If that were true, then how, (for just one example) could you possibly screen print a rectangle with a spot-to-spot grad fill? The path containing that grad resides on one Layer, doesn't it?
    In an attempt to add highlights or shadows to an object, if I copy an object and paste it in front of itself, then apply a gradient using another Pantone spot color, say Pantone Process Black(100% to 0% opacity), does it matter what the blending mode is?
    Yes, it matters. Blending Modes has to do with so-called "transparency" effects. Again, anytime you muck around with "transparency" you increase the liklihood of rasterization and/or conversion to process at output. You would be safer setting that copied, pasted, grad-filled object to overprint. Halftoning will still be required, at least on the separation corresponding to the ink(s) for that grad.
    Obviously you'll get different results based on the option you choose... I'm concerned here only with screen printing.
    If you are designing for SPOT COLOR screen printing (as opposed to process color), stay away from transparency effects unless/until you understand what you're doing.
    I can then place the gradient on the Black layer.
    Again, forget Layers corresponding to ink separations. A total misconception. Utterly unnecessary.
    The problem is that I'm familiar with off-set printing, and apparently gradients have to be converted into halftones when screen printing, so I'm trying to figure out the best way of creating shadows and highlights.
    The best way to create shading is HIGHLY dependent upon the technical capabilities of the specific screen printing shop. Always ask:
    Can the shop support halftoning?
    If so, what is the maximum halftone ruling (LPI) they can reliably hold on the particular target substrate? (If they don't understand this question, either stick to line art or find another screen shop.)
    This does not mean that you cannot do shaded artwork without halftoning. (In fact, much of the most stunning screen-printed work is done entirely as line art.)  Designer fully acquainted with the limitations of screen printing commonly employ artwork shading techniques to avoid the need for halftoning altogether. They use hatching or stippling or contour linework to build "shading" into the artwork, and all inks are printed as line art. In this regard, preparing artwork for screen printing is often more "creatively rewarding" because you first, understand the real-world limitations of the reproduction method and, second, devise clever and original artwork methods to work within those limitations.
    But it's not something anyone can give you a step-by-step, one-size-fits-all-situations crash course in, in an online forum.
    JET
    JET

  • Mesh Profile

    L.s.
    Why is there a undeletable Mesh template on my controllers?
    since upgrade to latest version of WCS and controller-SW (3750+wlc) (wism) i have on 2 of my controllers a mesh tmpl.
    when i try to remove wcs tells me that's not possible.
    tried to do it directly on the controller, but off-course that's not possible.
    when i see clients trying to connect to 802.11b wlans there is a "Mesh_Profile" which i didn't create.
    Any lights?
    Regards Frans Verschoor

    Hi Frans,
    the reason that you might be seeing a standard mesh template is for the 1500 series mesh AP's. Cisco have built in a few future feature into the software of which some do nothing. (Page 9 for "new mesh features" of the software release notes) also For example in the latest version version 4.1.171.0 of the controller it now references 802.11n access points. (Cisco statement page 9 - 802.11n radios are not supported for use with controller software release 4.1.171.0. These radios will be supported in a future controller release. In this release, please disregard any 802.11n-related parameters
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    Cheers Mark
    *Pls rate all usefull posts

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