Microsoft Notebook Wireless Mouse 6000 bluetooth issues.

Ok, I bought the microsoft mouse to free up usb ports because I assumed you could use bluetooth for the device as apposed to the receiver it comes with, but I cannot figure out how to get it to work without the receiver. Can you just use Macs bluetooth utility alone or do you need to use the stupid receiver?

'Tweeked' the mouse, now it works...

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MS Wireless Mouse 6000 with Lion issue

Just got a Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 6000, running a Mac Mini Server on 10.7.2 and the MS Intellipoint 8.2 software.
On bootup/restart the mouse works but tracks much faster and some of the side buttons don't work. If I bring up the MS Mouse options in system preferences it prompts me to plug in the nano receiver, once I replug it everything works normally but I have to do this every time I reboot/restart. Was using the USB hub in my screen but having it connected directly to the Mac Mini makes no difference.
Anybody else having this issue?

Are you using the most recent driver for your mouse IntelliPoint and IntelliType Pro 6.2.2
If not can find it here http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/drivers/
Randy
Message was edited by: Randall D.

Wireless mouse and Keyboard Issue after closing the lid - external display

Can anyone give any insight. Recent purchase of a new Late 2008 15" MBP. I have connected it to an external 24" Apple monitor on my desk and use a wireless mouse and wireless keyboard on my desk top. I have configured the laptop to wake on bluetooth devices. So here is the problem: The laptop when the lid is up recognizes the bluetooth keyboard and mouse. I close the lid/screen. Laptop powers down... the after several seconds I move the mouse and the laptop comes alive... But after that there are no bluetooth devices attached. When I use the mouse, I get "connection lost" with a white figure of the mighty mouse on the screen. The wireless keyboard is not there and I have to open the lid and manually find the mouse and reconnect. The keyboard seems to work however....
Apple..... any thoughts..... anyone?????

Hi Stentdoc; I'm thinking, 'connection lost ~= sorta low AA batteries in the Mighty Mouse? (I would put in fresh AA batteries in the mouse and keyboard, to eliminate as an issue that the 'connection lost' is due to low batt voltage; that this is causing the failure to wake.) ... then, in System Preferences > Hardware > Energy Saver, settings for Power Adapter > Sleep, set to "never" for "Put the computer to sleep when it is inactive for ..." to eliminate that as a conflict when trying to wake with bluetooth from sleep induced by closing the lid ...
Check your current "Sleep" setup (I left my MBP as "3")
go to Utilities > Terminal
After you launch Terminal, the first step is to determine which sleep mode your Mac is currently using. You can both view and change the sleep mode using the Unix program pmset. To see your current settings, type (or, copy and paste)
pmset -g | grep hibernatemode
press 'enter'
You should see something like this:
$ pmset -g | grep hibernatemode
hibernatemode 3
So your machine is using mode 3 ... thanks to the documentation for the handy Deep Sleep Dashboard widget, which puts your machine immediately into hibernation mode (so you don’t have to yank all the power sources to invoke it):
* 0 - Old style sleep mode, with RAM powered on while sleeping, safe sleep disabled, and super-fast wake.
* 1 - Hibernation mode, with RAM contents written to disk, system totally shut down while “sleeping,” and slower wake up, due to reading the contents of RAM off the hard drive.
* 3 - The default mode on machines introduced since about fall 2005. RAM is powered on while sleeping, but RAM contents are also written to disk before sleeping. In the event of total power loss, the system enters hibernation mode automatically.
also, I enabled this (to change back, input "lidwake 1":
go to Utilities > Terminal
type in sudo pmset lidwake 0 then "enter"
it will ask for your password. type it in, that's it!
Now, when your computer is sleeping with the lid closed, when you open the lid nothing happens until you press any key ... nice: keeps it off when accidentally opened, like in a backpack?
WARNING: Improper use of the sudo command could lead to data loss
or the deletion of important system files. Please double-check your
typing when using sudo. Type "man sudo" for more information.
To proceed, enter your password, or type Ctrl-C to abort.

Wireless mouse / Window hiding issue

I'm using a friends MacPro and the windows I'm working in will go and hide randomly. I have no idea what I'm doing to create this. He has a bluetooth wireless mouse from apple set up. The window will go and hide off the screen. I have to run the mouse off the any edge of the monitor and click anywhere for the windows to come back. Does any one know what this is?

I'm using a friends MacPro and the windows I'm working in will go and hide randomly. I have no idea what I'm doing to create this. He has a bluetooth wireless mouse from apple set up. The window will go and hide off the screen. I have to run the mouse off the any edge of the monitor and click anywhere for the windows to come back. Does any one know what this is?

Microsoft Wireless Notebook Laser Mouse 6000

I bought one of these for my Macbook: followed the install steps and nothing. No laser light, no control via the mouse. Any ideas?

What version of Microsoft Mouse do you have installed under OS X? I’m using version 6.0, which is a universal binary, on my MBP C2D and it is working perfectly.
The second thing to try is to re-sync the mouse and the receiver. With the receiver plugged in, start the Microsoft Mouse application. Next, press the reset button on the bottom of the receiver. If the software is running correctly, you should see a dialog asking you to press the reset button on the bottom of the mouse. If the re-sync was successful, you will be asked to select your mouse from the pop-up.
I can not comment on Boot Camp directly since I do not use it. My guess would be that you must install the Windows version of Microsoft Mouse and then set up the mouse under windows.

New wireless mouse and keyboard issues

I have a new 20", 2.4GHz alu iMac, and I ordered it with the new bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mighty mouse. They've always worked great, but yesterday, the mouse has had intermittant lag, and it says that the keyboard has lost connection. I've been running Leopard since it came out, and I've never had such problems with Tiger. I reinstalled Leopard a few hours ago (erase and install), and I'm still getting the lag. I wanted to see whether it is my mouse, so I tried pairing it with my brother's white intel iMac, and it couldn't pair, but it made my brother's bluetooth mighty mouse lag too! Could this be due to interference? Our rooms are right beside each other.
Also, when the lag occurs, I get the message that its lost connection with the keyboard, however it still works perfectly. The lag is very noticeable, and it takes about 3-4 times longer for the mouse to move, while being very choppy. This is for about 10-15 seconds, and then it goes normal speed again.
Is anyone else having this challenge? Could anyone diagnose whether it's likely to be the computer, the mouse, or interference, (or other!)?
Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

I have a 6 week old imac 24" alu intel with wireless keyboard & mouse and it was all working fine until the 10.5.1 upgrade. it also started on the same day there was a big rain storm so I thought that might be messing with my blue tooth connections. i have no other bluetooth devices other than the mouse and keyboard. at first it was intolerable. i'd get the keyboard connection lost message every few minutes, the keyboard would continue to function and the mouse would go very sluggish for a minute or 2. this was happening every 5 minutes or so. i deleted each one an reconnected, shut everything off, restarted the computer and it seemed ok for about 1 hour and then it happened again a few times. definitely not as often as before but it still happens from time to time every few hours. power on both is about 75% and seeing as they have new duracel batteries i'm sure they are not dead.
I did the auto update to 10.5.1 and had all the permission issues so then downloaded and installed the larger 100+ meg update. not sure if this has caused any problems.
So far leopard has only been a pain. Reason 4 crashes, Parallels 3 crashes, Mail crashes (I wrote some important notes which I guess don't get automatically saved like drafts and lost the notes when mail crashed several hours after I wrote them), my software update even crashed once. is Leopard built on OS 9 technology? what a disappointment.
Oh and internet and wireless connection to ADSL seems pretty slow, slower than tiger I think.
Windows should start a new campaign called "Come back".
One last beef, do other people find this wireless keyword (metal) not so responsive, letters get missed as I type, space bar is stiff and squeaky, overall not great for someone doing a lot of writing? that's what I think.

Can i connect wireless keyboard and wireless mouse by bluetooth at same time?

i am palning to use wireless keyboard and mouse and connect it with my Macbook by bluetooth, so can i connect these two devices at same time?

i am pretty sure ther won't be any problem to connect 2 devices by bluetooth to Macbook

Microsoft technology - wireless mouse RVF-00005

Hi There Can you please advise whether the little USB transmitter for the RVF-00005 mouse can be purchased separately? I have lost mine and without it the mouse is obviously unusable. Many thanks

You can look around here.
http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/healthy-keyboards-and-mice
call or chat with them here.
http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/DisplayHelpContactUsPage/
Regards, Dave Patrick ....
Microsoft Certified Professional
Microsoft MVP [Windows]
Disclaimer: This posting is provided "AS IS" with no warranties or guarantees , and confers no rights.

Using Microsoft Notebook presenter mouse 8000 to control a Flash presentation

Hi,
I am building a Flash presentation and would like to control it by using the "next"and "previous" keys on my mouse... I know that it should be something like "on (release) ...", but I am not sure....
Any tips on how to create this in action Script 2.0 ?
Thanks in advance for your help !
Gilbert Gour

I'm running into that problem right now. I really like the mouse, but I've got to get it working with Keynote, else, I'll have to return the product.
I've tried using Steermouse, but it doesn't seem to be able to remap those those "Presenter" keys. The analysis is able to read the button presses, but the driver isn't able to remap.
If anyone knows of a workaround, please let me know! I'll try Applescript and some other things, but I'm about to give it up and just get a separate presentation tool.
Thanks in advance.

Wireless Mouse - Use With Powerbook Directly Instead Of Mouse's USB Adapter

I just purchased a new Microsoft Notebook Laser Mouse 6000, and I like it very much, however, I am not able to figure a way to use it without the USB piece that it came with. Can anyone help me? Is there a way to do this (the mouse isn't bluetooth). Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
(I was able to find, in Help, a section on RF, but I dont think thats what I was looking for, and even if it were, I wasn't able to do what Help said could be done).

Thanks for your help (I'd say your name here if I knew it!)
Thats just what I was hoping to get; an answer that acknowledged my computers wireless capabilities and still explained that the mouse wouldn't work without the included USB attatchment.
Why do you think there aren't more bluetooth mice (or accessories in general)? I asked the kid at the BestBuy where I got the mouse if there were any other bluetooth mice or if they were getting more soon that he knew about and why there were so few. He answered that, "yeah, bluetooth was very popular very quickly, but soon after that, no one wanted bluetooth stuff any more." This doesn't make sence to me. I loved my Apple blluetooth mouse before I broke it, and, if it werent almost $70, or if it had greater capabilities for that $70 I would absolutely have purchased another one. I mean, why would somone chose to have an extra piece in order for a wireless device to work? I don't get it - is the RF technology that this Microsoft uses more sensative than bluetooth? Longer battery life? What?
Anyhow, I digress. I'm definately keeping the mouse. Its the Microsoft Laser Mouse 6000, for Notebooks (its smaller than the full size version). Its the only Microsoft product, other than Office, that I will allow in my house. Because it really is extremely smooth, both scrolling with the wheel (which is four way, by the way) and moving it around the mouse-pad, and because I really, really like the zoom button on the side of the mouse, with which you can zoom into any part of the screen by holding that button and scrolling the wheel to the magnification you desire. It really is extremely nice, too nice to give up even though I do have to plug that obnoxious USB thing in, as though my PowerBook wasn't bluetooth et cetera. I also programmed the scroll wheel to open links in new tabs when used to click. Its a very capable little mouse.

Bluetooth can't connect to wireless mouse

After working flawlessly for two years, now my iMac no longer connects to the wireless mouse and keyboard that came with it. I changed the batteries in both to no avail. A US̆B mouse works fine. What could be causing this?

Hello nikkig00,
It is certainly difficult to use the computer if your wireless keyboard and mouse do not connect. I found a few resources I recommend for this issue.
I recommend reviewing this article first:
Troubleshooting wireless mouse and keyboard issues
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3048
If the issue persists, I recommend reviewing the section titled "Top troubleshooting tips" in the article below. Step 9 specifically stands out to me for the issue you described:
9. Restart your computer
Sometimes a simple restart of your Mac is all it takes to get things running smoothly again. You may also want to try resetting your computer's PRAM and NVRAM.
Bluetooth Quick Assist
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1153
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Sheila M.

Not responsive wireless mouse and keyboard, No internet/wifi and Bluetooth connection.

Hi,
I need help as both my wireless mouse and wireless keyboard are totally no responsive and I replaced them with fresh new batteries. My wifi/internet connection is offline too. My Bluetooth signal is the Bluetooth with jagged lines "Bluetooth offline". I tried to disconnect all my USB devices and restarted. I tried the methods listed here but to no avail.
Yesterday afternoon there was a lightning in the skies and it caused blackout throughout my whole house. So it might be due to the power surge from the Lightning but all my other devices like my iPhone and modem router are working fine. I restarted the router too. It was fine the whole evening till nighttime yesterday. This morning I woke up, I can't do anything at all.

First thing to try is resetting the PRAM per the instructions below. If that does not work then please use the instructions on how to connect a Bluetooth mouse and keyboard below.
iMac SMC and PRAM reset
Troubleshooting wireless mouse and keyboard issues - Apple Support

Why do I sometimes suddenly lose Bluetooth from my Imac? I use it for my wireless mouse and keyboard. I then can't find it in system preferences but have to shutdown my Mac and hope it comes back

This is an infuriating problem and wondered if it happens to other people too and if I am doing the right thing by turning the Mac off then on again.

Hi there vickivoo,
You may find the troubleshooting steps in the article below helpful.
Troubleshooting wireless mouse and keyboard issues
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3048
-Griff W.

Need help identifying Apple Wireless Mouse

I was given a PowerBook G4 laptop at a recent Mac user group meeting. My plan for the computer is to donate the laptop and the parts and pieces given to me to a local agency. The agency will then give it so some family that needs but can't afford a computer.
The computer came with Tiger, and I have the disks. But the (presumed) original owner has installed 10.5 Leopard and I have the disk for that.
In looking around Apple, I think this is a bluetooth version of the Mighty Mouse. But I've been unable to locate a photo that matches this mouse.
It looks like a Mighty Mouse on the outside, but remove the battery cover and it doesn't match any photo and/or manual I've found.
At the end of the mouse where the sliding switch/LED cover is located, and under the cover, there is a sliding switch marked + and -. On the batt cover, the Model is A1015 but a search has returned 0 results.
I assume that to turn the mouse on, you slide the cover to expose the LED light. And, the light should turn on. But, it doesn't. The batteries are good.
In looking at the mouse, I think the sliding cover should depress what I'll call a switch, ahen when I manually depress the switch, the LED turns on, and is discovered. Without the light on, the computer will not discover the mouse. After discovery, and continuing to hold the switch down to keep the LED on, the mouse will not pair up to the computer. Just for FYI, I get the same results trying to pair to my iMac with Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
Which leaves me with the following questions:
Is this a Mighty Mouse?
Is there a manual and/or photo of this mouse somewhere?
Should the red LED turn on when the sliding cover exposes the LED?
Will it only work with Tiger?
Is there something small that is missing from the battery cover that would depress the switch properly?
Does it only work with Tiger?
What does the switch with the + and - do?
Ken

Hi, twtwtw,
well, without having it in hand I can't really see how it's supposed to attach or what exactly it does.
Photos of the battery cover and spring disasembled and assembled.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lpw15yseg0a5w2m/Battery%20cover%20unassembled.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/56sbnv31usewthr/Battery%20cover%20assembled.jpg
I just have the pieces laying in the correct position, no permanent repair. Would have simply thrown them on the scanner, but the all-in-one unit with scanner that was installed was removed yesterday to be donated with the laptop mentioned in my original post.
The round end of the spring pops the battery cover off when the latch is released. The other end depresses the switch in the mouse when the slide in the battery cover is moved.
it looks like they can be taken apart - there's a teardown of a different model at ifixit.com, which you might be able to adapt.
The wired version of a mouse similar in construction to that unit came with my iMac. When the trackball stopped scrolling, I found out you had to end up using Super Glue to reassemble, and that's no way to design a product, IMO. But, I always hated that mouse, it didn't fit my hand, and typing on the keyboard reminds me of the horrible "chiclet" keypads of yesteryear, and I replaced both with an old Apple Pro keyboard and a Microsoft USB wireless mouse that actually fit my hand!!! What a concept!
The thing at the top (between the +/-) looks more like a latch than a switch to me. is it holding the bottom plate in place?
There is the proverbial Tab A on the cover that fits into Slot B on the mouse, but the the sliding thing does nothing to affect the tab/slot that I can determine. Possibly, it may control the amount of movement vertically you apply to get a "mouse press", but at the moment I've not tested that theory.
I think the +/- bit really is just a guide for battery installation.
"Illogical", as Mr. Spock would say. The orientation of the +/- is 90º to the battery installation. And both batteries are installed with the + end towards this end of the mouse.
if attaching the the piece of metal is just a matter of broken pins, though, you could try super-gluing it in place.
Super glue was my first thought, but spring steel is hard to get liquid type adhesives to adhere to. I also thought of using Gorilla Glue, if you're familiar with it. It's hard to find stuff that Gorilla Glue won't bond to with some degree of success.
I dug out my freestanding magnifier, and it almost looks like the "pins" probably had an upper, smaller in dia. part, that may have been melted over the spring to hold the spring in place.
and no matter what you say, tape is always an option.
LOL! Hope that was a joke for real, as that never an option for my repairs. If done, it's cheap and cheezy, as if you don't care what kind of workmanship you have.
With respect to the link... did you seriously keep hitting that link and sitting through the sarcasimation, rather than typing the words into a new google window yourself? Heck, you could have copy/pasted the text instead of typing it, or bookmarked the resulting google page for future reference, or..., or...
To start with, Google is almost never my search engine of first choice. Why? I've not trusted them with anything since they were caught violating privacy issues, more than once. My first choices are DuckDuckGo, Startpage, and IxQuick, because those search engines do not track your searches and surfing habits. Where I go and what I do is no one's business. I don't want that info given/sold/stolen by marketers, spammers, scammers, hackers, et. al.
Startpage and IxQuick appear to be from the same folks.
So I have all the trackers blocked as best as possible, Javascript disabled, etc., which makes getting the encrypted URL to work is, well, extra work. Simply copying and pasting the encrypted URL is therefore blocked. I see no value other than shorter typed links in email, forums, newsgroups, etc. to the shortened links, plus making bucks for the folks at TinyURL and others that create them for you. And of course, they are tracking you to.
So, as you may have guessed by now, I do not use Safari. <grin>
I didn't plan on doing it more than once, but had to when you replied. And I've already got too damned many bookmarks.
Dude.
And I'm neither a Dude or Dudette. But been online before there was a world wide web, and a 1200 baud modem was state of the art.
It seems to me that you are suffering from a chronic case of missing-the-point. The first time you clicked that link it was me wasting your time; my bad, but gotcha, laughs all around.
Did not miss the point, and I am not laughing. Wasting the time of your friends is one thing, wasting the time of strangers is simply bad manners.
Any time you clicked it after that you knew what was going to happen, so you were wasting your own time. You're complaining that your time is being wasted because you just won't google it yourself - what am I supposed to do with that except ?
I will plead guilty to assuming that Apple would have documentation on their own website, n'cest-ce pas? (To save you some Googling and unencrypting URLs, http://www.yourdictionary.com/n-est-ce-pas) If Apple had the info on their site, the seach engine would/should have found that link, and I would than have wasted my time with a Google search when it shouldn't have been necessary. I learned a long time ago, to always, always check the mfgr.'s site first for the correct information.

Wireless mouse intermittently drops out/stops working

I have just bought a Mac Mini. I'm not a fan of Apple keyboards or mice, so I've bought a third party keyboard and I'm using a mouse that I already had (Microsoft Wireless Mouse 1000). Whilst it works fine with my Macbook Pro and PC, with the mini I get drop outs in the form of jerky movement and occassionally stopping long enough to see it just isn't moving. The mini works fine with a wired mouse.
My gut feeling from playing around with the different mice and computers is that it is actually the aluminium case shielding the signal from the mouse (as both are on the desktop and the mini sits at the back of the desk with the USB ports on the back and a great chunk of aluminium therefore in front of it.
I have a USB hub built in to the monitor, but that seems to have the same problem - the USB ports are behind the panel and associated electronics. Sadly, my keyboard (Ducky Zero DK2108) doesn't have a hub built in, so I can't connect the dongle to that either.
I'm just surprised I haven't seen (after a lot of googling) other complaints about the same. I may have to reluctantly buy a Bluetooth mouse as the BT antenna is of course outside of the Alu case. An alternative may be to use a small USB hub that can be positioned with line-of-sight to the mouse. It seems absurd I would have to do either of those things.
Can anyone else comment on their experiences?
Thanks!

Maybe this:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5230278?tstart=0
and
http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/usb-3.0-hard-drives-can-cause-wi-fi-inter ference
and
Troubleshooting wireless mouse and keyboard issues
I use an Apple KB and mouse on mine and have no problem. I do not use any USB 3 accessories

Microsoft Notebook Wireless Mouse 6000 bluetooth issues.

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