Microwave help

Ok. I need to replace my Samsung microwave that i don't remember how i ended up owning, but have been checking out some on best buy and want some advice: I know watts indicate power but how much is enough when all i'm going to heat is frozen chicken breats and popcorn? Is a $100 one really needed? Which brand is good?

I agree that larger is better, but higher power is not that bad.  For small items you can set it to a lowr power (for instance 50%), and it will cook just as well as a lower wattage one.  The higher power is good for when you are cooking larger items or wanting to heat water...much faster in a higher wattage unit set to full power. 
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Similar Messages

  • So my home button stopped working due to water damage. I put it in the microwave(for real no joke) so the water can evaporate. 2 seconds in and the screen sparked blue and now its not working any suggestions on helping me fix it?

    Please help me guys itll be a great help

    Hey Peter, I think your missing the big picture. Your iPod is past repair, corrosion, is a real issue with water damage, but your problem took a turn for the worst when you attempted to use a microwave to dry it out. I see you found another post from July 2012, where someone else tried to nuke there iPod, and got the same results you have-- a dead iPod. The blue sparks, burnt smell and still not working all confirms one thing... Your iPod is not repairable. What the water didn't damage the microwave did. By attempting to microwave, you for all intensive purposes hit your iPod with an EMP, (Electro-Magnetic Pulse), in the first split second you overloaded the workings of your iPod and burned it up! There is is no way of known which circuits and components have been damaged and to what extend. You may be able to get a refurbished iPod, but it is unclear that Apple will allow it, because of the type of damage, it's not like this was an accident, you deliberately put it in the microwave in a misguided attempt to dry it out. when the microwave turned on it hit ever chip, diode, capacitor etc. with more power than it was designed to handle, in short; you baked it, burned it up, fried it, call it what you want, but it's not going to work! To attempt to repair is a meaningless gesture, (and probably will cost more than it's worth), chalk this one up as bad ideas 101-- learn from it, move on, and get yourself a new iPod. Hope this helps, Good luck. Cheers.

  • Help with Microwave Warranty!

    Short version - purchased a sharp microwave in October 2013.  Microwave stopped working on March 1 - less than 5 months old.  Microwave has a one year manufacturer's warranty.
    Called Sharp, they have no walk in warranty centers within hours of me.  After multiple calls with sharp, still have no microwave.
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    Help!

    Hello oliverthecat,
    Thanks for joining the forums and reaching out to us with this question!
    In our stores, we do have the ability to fulfill manufacturer warranties on select products. There is no way of finding this out without going into the store and having an associate try to process it in on the register, as every item is different. You may call the store ahead of time and see if anyone knows offhand before heading into that location.
    I was able to see, using your email address provided here on the forums, that you called in and got a copy of your receipt from your microwave purchase. Also, I’m glad you were able to get ahold of the manufacturer directly. Let me know if there is anything else I can do for you!
    Thanks,
    JD|Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
     Private Message

  • Microwaved Iphone 4s, it turned off, now the apple sign comes on, then goes back off again. help!

    My brother microwaved my iphone 4 for 2-3 seconds. It turned off and now the apple sign comes on, then disappears. Its been like this for 2 days, ive tried charging and reseting it. Can an apple employee fix it or can i do something? HELP

    Why in the world did your brother microwave your iPhone?
    Make a Genius Bar appointment at your nearest Apple Store and do an out-of-warranty replacement for $199 USD.

  • Please Help, Can't Connect

    Help!
    I purchased 2 MacBooks for my daughters for Christmas. We were not able to connect via wireless to our WEP secured network. That day we spent endless hours talking to our DSL provider SBC and Apple both pointing the finger at each other regarding this matter. Eventually SBC recommended inserting a "$" sign before the password to connect. Unfortunately that did work for 1 of the 2 computers for about 1 hour. BTW, my wireless PCs work fine. Eventually I removed the WEP code requirements and made the network nonsecured. That actually worked for 1 week. Both New MacBooks connected instantly and the speed seemed comparable to the PCs. Although I'm not happy about having a nonsecure network, I was willing to make the change to support our new Apples. FYI, my Modem/Router is a 2Wire HomePortal 1000HG and it is running the latest update. Last Sunday, we brought the new computers to my office and both computers connected after inserting the password with the "$" preceding the password. Wow! Not a perfect scenario but OK to my standards. Last night, 1 of the 2 computers will not connect to my home non secured network. Again, we called both SBC and Apple to solve this problem and both are playing the blame game and I'm still not connected. Should I spend more money and time and buy a different modem/router? It seems like others have tried new devices and ended up with thinner wallets and still no connection.
    After reading this discussion board I'm now confident that this is an Apple issue and not SBC. I'm disgusted that Apple Support Tech's are making me feel like I'm an idiot and blaming SBC. How can Apple put out a computer in 2007 that does not connect to the internet, don't they test these products? Finally, why is apple ignoring this problem? And, why are the Apple Support Tech's not admitting to this problem?
    Apple needs to do the right thing. This is my first Apple purchase and I'm ready to Heave Ho both of these MacBooks into the Pacific.
    APPLE, is there a fix? When will it be available?
    CONSUMBERS, can we do something about this as a group?
    I'm not a happy customer,
    Joe
    Not Connected

    My MacBook connects to my 2Wire Router/Modem and SBC Yahoo DSL connection just fine as do all my other computers (iBook via Ethernet and 3 Windows PCs, 2 desktops with Ethernet and one laptop with Wireless and Ethernet sometimes) as well as our NAS and our Tivo on our home network.
    We have a slighly newer/more expensive version of the router than you, its something like the 1701HG with the 4 ethernet ports, wireless and 1 USB port on it. We use the WPA-PSK Authentication type with TKIP encryption and that is more secure than WEP is, and like the other person said, WEP can have some problems of its own so if you can use WPA instead, I would try for that... Also, check what channel you have your Router running on as default (11 works best in my experience, but if you have neighbors that use 11 as well, then going with another channel # away from theirs will give you a better signal usually).
    Also, check your power settings for the router (I put mine on 10 -the highest- to give me the best signal strength), and watch out for any possible interference (cordless phones that are on the same or nearby channel can do this, put your phone on a lower # instead) and things like using you microwave can cause interference as well.
    Having a non secure (non-encrypted) network is not good to have obviously, and not just because of the way it leaves your computers open to others as in hackers etc, but just for the fact that it means anyone that can see your SSID being broadcast can then join your network and use your internet bandwidth (taking away possible speed from your usage as well as anything else they do, having it go through your broadband account).

  • Need help - several questions

    The main problem: I have a computer that needs wireless connectivity. I do not want to use a wireless card, for a couple of reasons. One is sort of made obvious below, and the other is that I want to use the pci slot for something else anyway.
    The secondary, tertiary, etc. problem:
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    3. I've decided to buy a wireless bridge and hook it up to this computer's built-in ethernet port. What I want to know is: Will I burn out the bridge? Or does it stand a better chance? Also, can a bridge work this way, or does it need to be hooked up to a router? (if so, no prob - I have a spare router) The bridge I've ordered is the Linksys one (not sure but I think there may only be one), and it runs at G speeds. Will this be an issue?
    I also want to know if I can cause any damage to other components in my system what with two wireless cards having burned out. The first card started giving problems in one computer, but then when I got the new one, I transferred it over to the new computer, out of curiosity to see if it would work. It didn't, so that is when I got the D-link. The D-link worked fine for a little while, but now I seem to be headed right down the same path I headed down with the Linksys, with the same initial hardlocking symptoms (I bet if I wait long enough, the D-link will start blue screening too).
    Last but not least, I'm ripping my hair out over this connectivity problem. I'm thinking of firing up my old B router, despite its lack of decent security, and going with that. At least that router works perfectly, even at 7 years of age. I may still use this stupidly expensive N router, but only as a router (not a wireless access point). I apologize for sounding frustrated, but I consider myself a bit of a seasoned wireless network user, having successfully set up and used a wireless-B network for years. It was only after we got this wireless-N equipment that everything made me feel like a total noob again.
    Can anyone suggest *anything* that might help, now that you know the background?
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    1) Here's the thing. To the best of my knowledge, while Premiere can successfully ingest several kinds of color space videos, most of it's processing is done only in RGB mode. I found this out when some colors from DV source changed on me as soon as I added most any effect, whether or not I changed any of that effect's parameters. Simply adding the effect changed the color space Premiere was working in from the native YUV of DV to RGB. That change in color space caused the color shift, and nothing I did would bring it back.
    The point here is that if any affects are added to your video, Premiere has probably already shifted to the RGB color space, so you may as well keep it that way for export, rather than shifting it back to YUV causing further degradation.
    2) Leave it off.
    3) For your source, you can probably just leave it at 8.
    4) Turn off Optimize Stills. That setting can cause issues.
    5) No. Interleave is just combining the video and audio.
    6) Dude, this is Video 101 stuff. How does someone working with your source not know this already?

  • Need help with wireless speeds..

    I just got myself a WRT54GS wireless router and i have noticed the speeds being extremely slow. I've gone through all of the threads and didn't get anything that could help.  I have tried what some mention, about changing the beacon interval to 50 and the Frag and RTS to 2304. Also i have changed the wireless channel a couple of times. Still nothing..
    Now onto my connection in general, i have cable and the speeds when direct connected are very fast. I typically download at about 300kb+ and i can get mb download speeds as well.  But while hooked up wirelessly it has been going at about 20kbs. When i try and watch streaming videos and all, it will be break up and all of that..due to the slow speed.  BTW i don't believe there is anything interfering at all. The comp is in the same room as the router as well
    This is my first time dealing with wireless, so any info and help would be greatly appreciated. What are some good ways to get the speeds up?  The comp i have is new as well lol  I know it limits a lot of the help, but this is a pain in the butt. Thanks
    Message Edited by Ichigo on 07-22-2007 10:13 AM
    Message Edited by Ichigo on 07-22-2007 11:58 AM

    Set "SSID Broadcast" to "enabled". This will help your computer find and lock on to your router's signal.
    Poor wireless connections are often caused by radio interference from other 2.4 GHz devices. This includes wireless phones, wireless baby monitors, microwave ovens, wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers, and your neighbor's wireless network. In rare cases, Bluetooth devices can interfere. Even some 5+ GHz phones also use the 2.4 Ghz band. Unplug these devices, and see if that corrects your problem.
    In your router, try a different channel. There are 11 channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Usually channel 1, 6, or 11 works best. Check out your neighbors, and see what channel they are using. Because the channels overlap one another, try to stay at least +5 or -5 channels from your strongest neighbors. For example, if you have a strong neighbor on channel 9, try any channel 1 through 4.
    Also, try to locate the router about 4 to 6 feet above the floor, in an open area. Do not locate it behind your monitor or near other computer equipment or speakers. The antenna should be vertical.
    What encryption are you using?  WEP?  WPA?  WPA2?  Some systems work significantly better with one encryption system vs. another.  So try something different.  WEP is no longer recommended.  You should be using WPA or preferably WPA2.  Password (key) should not have any spaces in it.
    Windows XP requires a patch to run WPA2 (= PSK2 = WPA with AES ). Go to Microsoft Knowledge base, article ID=893357 and it will direct you to the patch.
    Sadly, the patch is not part of the automatic Windows XP updates, so lots of people are missing the patch.
    Hope this helps.
    Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 07-25-2007 05:24 AM

  • Need help with my E2100L Wireless Router

    I moved back home with the parents after graduating from college while I'm searching for a job and I noticed my parent's wireless internet connection was really poor. I'm normally pretty decent with computers but I haven’t been able to fix this problem so I am hoping if I explain it to you fine folks and can point me in the right direction to getting everything running properly.
    The problem I’m having is with the wireless signal fluctuating frequently when I’m not in the same room with the router. I know the issue is not with Comcast or the modem because when I remove the router and just plug into the modem I get 25 Mbps all day long when I run a test on Speedtest.net.
    The setup is Comcast Internet 25 Mbps, SB6120 Modem, and Linksys E2100L Wireless Router with WPA2/WPA security activated.
    Before I touched anything the modem and router were originally in my parent’s bedroom. I was getting speeds of less than 1 Mbps if any when I was in my bedroom so I moved them into the living room to be more centrally located. Our house is a one story house with bedrooms divided by the living room. The move seemed to help a little but something was still really wrong so I did a hard reset on the router. I setup up the network manually by going through the settings on 192.168.1.1. which made things work a little better. However I still wasn’t getting close to the speeds I should have been getting and when in my bedroom the connection would sometimes drop out altogether. So I did another hard reset on the router and this time I used the CD that came with it (Cisco Connect) to setup the network. That has got my problem halfway fixed because now if I am in the living room and my laptop is connected wirelessly when I run the speed test I get 25 Mbps.
    I thought I have solved everything because in my bedroom the signal was now very good at 20 Mbps… except the 20 Mbps didn’t last. It held around 20 Mbps for the about first 10 minutes but then dropped to about 16 Mbps for a while. A day later when I run the test I now range anywhere from 3 Mbps to 14 Mbps. There seems to be no consistency. I did a hard reset again and setup the network using the CD and the problem persists. I get 20 Mbps in the very beginning and then it lowers from there and fluctuates frequently.
    I thought it might be a firmware issue so I successfully updated it today to the latest firmware “1.0.05 build 4 Mar 8, 2012” but the same thing happens. I just don’t get it. Why am I able to get 20 Mbps for the first few min in my bedroom and then it’s a crapshoot thereafter?  If it were interference wouldn’t the interference always be there and not be a gradual onset? Why when I’m in the living room with the router is it perfect at 25 Mbps but as soon as I go to my bedroom I get a much much lower connection speed.
    I could handle the speed being lower if it was consistent but it’s not. This post has taken me about 20 min to type and while doing so I ran the test a few times at a couple minutes apart and got 3 Mbps, 7 Mbps, and 10 Mbps speeds. Someone please help! This is driving me crazy!!!

    When in my bedroom there are only 2 other networks available to join that belong to neighbors but their signal strength is fair at best while my signal dances between being excellent and good. There is no microwave oven, cordless phone, or garage between me and the router. When I'm in my bedroom I'm no more than 10 feet from the actual router and only seperated by a wall and I'm pretty sure its not a brick wall.
    Again I don't understand how it could be interference. If there was something interfering wouldn't it always be interfering? Like I said in my first post every time I reset the network I get speeds of 20 Mbps for the first few min in my bedroom and then it gradually lowers and I get a fluctuating speed between 3 and 14 Mbps.
    In the settings there is no channel width option of 40 MHz only. I get "20 MHz only" and "Auto(20MHz or 40MHz)" as my options. I have tried them both but don't really notice a difference.
    I am going to try the insider program today to see what its results are.

  • Random wireless crashes ( need help urgently)

    Hi, I'm using a WRT54GSv4 router and I have two computer connected to it. One pc is connected by wire and the other computer ( IBM t60p labtop, integrated Intel Pro/wireless 3945abg, running MS Vista OS ) by wireless. the wired one is working flawlessly, although the laptop has some serious connectivity issues. The thing is, that the laptop sometimes ( well, rather often ) looses the wireless connection and cannot connect unless I restart the router, but after 3 minutes or so, it disconnects again and again. I'm not sure if this is the issue, but it seems as if the wireless starts crashing if the wired computer starts to eat up more or the internet connection. I had the same problem with my previous laptop ( IBM T41 ( I think ) too. And if i disconnect my pc, wireless problems seem to disapear (sometimes). I'm getting kinda desperate.
    My router wireless settings:
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    linksys ssid broadcast:
    enabled wireless channel:
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    WPA Personal WPA alorythms:
    TKIP group key renewal:
    3600secs MAC filter: OFF
    Auth type: auto
    Basic rate: All
    Transmission rate: Auto
    CTS protection mode: Disable
    Frame Burst: enable
    Beacon Interval: 100
    DTIM Interval: 1
    Fragmentation Threshold: 2346
    RTS Threshold: 2347
    AP Isolation: Off
    SecureEasySetup: Enabled
    Message Edited by Offset on 09-29-2007 02:48 PM

    Give your network a unique SSID.  Do not use "linksys".  If you use "linksys", your computer might try to connect to your neighbor's network, and this can cause network slowdowns, and sometimes disconnections.
    Also, make sure you have the latest driver for your Intel wireless card.
    Windows XP has WZC (Windows wireless zero configuration).  (I don't know if Vista has this.)  You cannot use both WZC and the Intel wireless configuration software at the same time.  You must use one or the other.  Turn one off, then try the other one.  If you try to use both at the same time, you will have connection problems.
    Poor wireless connections are often caused by radio interference from other 2.4 GHz devices. This includes wireless phones, wireless baby monitors, microwave ovens, wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers, and your neighbor's wireless network. In rare cases, Bluetooth devices can interfere. Even some 5+ GHz phones also use the 2.4 Ghz band. Unplug these devices, and see if that corrects your problem.
    In your router, try a different channel. There are 11 channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Usually channel 1, 6, or 11 works best. Check out your neighbors, and see what channel they are using. Because the channels overlap one another, try to stay at least +5 or -5 channels from your strongest neighbors. For example, if you have a strong neighbor on channel 9, try any channel 1 through 4.
    Also, try to locate the router about 4 to 6 feet above the floor, in an open area. Do not locate it behind your monitor or near other computer equipment or speakers. The antenna should be vertical.
    Also, in the computer, go to your wireless software, and go to "Preferred Networks" (sometimes called "Profiles" ). There are probably a few networks listed. Delete any network named "linksys". Also delete any network that you do not recognize, or that you no longer use. If your current network is not listed, enter its info (SSID, encryption (if any), and key (if any) ). Then select your current network and make it your default network, and set it to automatic login. You may need to go to "settings" to do this, or you may need to right click on your network and select "Properties" or "settings".
    Hope this helps.
    Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 09-30-2007 04:22 AM

  • Acrobat 9 Form won't mail from Vista- help please?

    Id like to thank all past help from the forum. Sorry I haven't written my gratatude before this. That doesn't mean I don't apreciate the help. I've gone from one super frustrated and dissapointed user to someone slowly begining to apreciate exactly what Adobe 9 Pro really is, mainly from what I've picked up in this forum.
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    I'm unsure if I can post a link here to the form. But I'll give you a run down. I used the "forms" selection of Acrobat 9 Pro to create a registeration form. It can be downloaded from my web site and sometimes we attach it to an email. Interested people fill in the form (at this stage it is being seen with acrobat reader in a web browser). There is a purple line at the top of the form with instructions to click submit form to return the completed form.
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    Doug

  • Mac Wireless Help for a newbie

    Hi,
    I am currently based in Hunan, China and over the weekend I bought a D-Link wireless router, hoping to make my time in China that much better with wireless heaven.
    The model of my router is D-Link DI-624+A. It is an exclusively Chinese model and has no English manuals. But I did find a DI-624 (C version) model with a comparable manual and was able to set up the router.
    This was my first time even attempting this, and I was mighty proud that I even got it to work.
    I was running it through my Macbook (2GHz)/OS x 10.4.8., but the connection would just drop every 15-20 minutes, and I'd just have to tinker around and the connection would come back. (I don't think that my tinkering had anything to do with the connection coming back. It just took some time and would reappear).
    The only reason I even knew that I lost my connection was because Skype would shut down, and nothing would load in my browser since my Airport indicator said I had full reception. But in reality, nothing was working.
    So, my question is what could be the issue? I figured that I configured the router correctly, since I'm able to use it at all. But my issue is that it cuts off unexpectedly and then comes back on, sometimes minutes or hours later.
    Could it be interference? Even though I use the "Interference Robustness" option and don't have a microwave or cordless phone on while I'm wireless.
    Or is it a shoddy router?
    I am so very unfamiliar with the hardware so any info and help would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise I'm out 250 kuai and I'll be forced to get the poor man's wireless- 15 meters of ethernet cord.
    Thanks in advance!

    adoyzie, Welcome to the discussion area!
    Could it be interference?
    Yes. Any other device operating at or near 2.4 GHz can cause interference.
    ...and don't have a microwave or cordless phone on while I'm wireless.
    These devices can cause interference when not in an active voice call. The handsets periodically talk to the base unit and cause interference.
    Also remember that it could be a device used by one of your neighbors.
    Try changing the channel used by your base station until you find a channel that works or you run out of channels.
    KB 58543, AirPort: Potential sources of interference

  • Help- WDS with Extreme-N & 2x Airport Express with ~ 40% packet loss

    So this problem is driving me crazy. I recently moved into a house that has enough metal in the walls (don't ask) to prevent me from using a single base station so I expanded my network as a WDS utilizing an Airport Extreme (mixed NGB mode) and two Airport Express (one as a relay and one as remote). The configuration appears to work normally some times but other times (especially evenings) I get a very high rate of dropped packets between the client notes (which are connected through the WDS-enabled Expresses) and the base station (using a simple ping 10.0.1.1 to check connectivity to the APBS-N). The problem manifests itself from a users' perspective as very long DNS lookups which causes slow page loads in a browser but it's very reproducible via ping.
    So far I've tried changing the channels on the network but I haven't seen a huge payoff there. iStumbler reports no additional networks on channel 2 which I'm using, there are some on channel 1, 5, and 13. I've also tried channels 7 and 11. We have no microwave in the house and our cordless phone (5.8ghz) never interrupted with our simpler Express-based network at our old house, n/m the fact that the phone is never in use when we have this problem.
    I don't seem to see the problem when I'm local to (in the same room as) the AEBS; it really seems to happen only when I'm on the WDS-enabled remote and/or relay.
    Other data points that may help are that the AEBS-N drops out of the Airport utility at the same time. Sometimes isn't gone for 30 seconds, other times for > 30 minutes. The other base stations continue to report "Green" in that they are not having any WDS problems. If I disconnect the remote node the relay will correctly reflect a status of yellow, so I know it somewhat works.
    It's an open network (no encryption, open SSID) so it's unlikely that there's an issue there.
    Clients include an Apple TV, iBook G4, MacBook, Tivo Series 3, Intel Mini and Dell Latitude D810. Because of the diversity of clients I don't think it's a driver or NIC adapter issue on any of the clients.
    Does anyone have any experience working in a similar environment? Suggestions on troubleshooting packet loss (or other performance issues) in a WDS network?
    Thanks,
    Mike

    Hello errorsupply. Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
    I suggest downloading a copy of iStumbler. Use iStumbler's Inspector feature (select Edit > Inspector from iStumbler's menu) to determine the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) at different points around your house, by performing a simple RF site survey. Within the Inspector, note the values for "signal" & "noise" at these locations. Start with your MacBook near the main base station, note the readings, and then, choose the locations where you have the relay and remote base stations.
    SNR is the signal level (in dBm) minus the noise level (in dBm). For example, a signal level of -53dBm measured near an access point and typical noise level of -90dBm yields a SNR of 37dB, a healthy value for wireless LANs.
    The SNR, as measured from the MacBook, decreases as the range to the base station increases because of applicable free space loss. Also an increase in RF interference from microwave ovens and cordless phones, which increases the noise level, also decreases SNR.
    SNR Guideline
    o 40dB+ SNR = Excellent signal
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