Mid-2011 Macbook Air - very slow wifi yet with OSX 10.9.2 (The Return)

Referring to this previous post:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5911893?tstart=0
Problem remains the same, wifi is simply impossible to use in OS X, and my "solution" to avoid throwing my Macbook Air into the rubbish bin is keep using Elementary OS (an Ubuntu-based linux distro). It basically saved my life. I think my last try will be 10.9.3, and if it doesn't fix the problem, I will quit OSX for good.

Please take all the following steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved. Back up all data before making any changes.
Step 1
Take the applicable steps in this support article. The Wireless Diagnostics program generates a large file of information about your system, which would be used by Apple Engineering in case of a support incident. Don't post the contents here.
Step 2
Run Software Update and install all available updates for OS X or your computer's firmware.
Step 3
If you're not using a wireless keyboard or trackpad, disable Bluetooth by selecting Turn Bluetooth Off from the menu with the Bluetooth icon. If you don't have that menu, open the Bluetooth preference pane in System Preferences and check the box marked Show Bluetooth in menu bar. Test. Continue if you find that Wi-Fi is faster with Bluetooth disabled.
From that same menu, select Open Bluetooth Preferences. If the box labeled Discoverable is checked, uncheck it. Click the Advanced button, and in the sheet that opens, uncheck the top three boxes, if any are checked. Click OK. Enable Bluetooth and test again.
If the application called "Bluetooth Setup Assistant" is running, quit it (not applicable to OS X 10.9 or later.)
Step 4
Open the Network pane in System Preferences and make a note of your settings in the Wi-Fi service. It may be helpful to take screenshots of the various tabs in the preference pane. If the preference pane is locked, unlock it by clicking the padlock icon and entering your administrator password. Delete Wi-Fi from the service list on the left by selecting it and clicking the minus-sign button at the bottom. Then recreate the service by clicking the plus-sign button and following the prompts.
Step 5
Reset the System Management Controller.
Step 6
Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service center.

Similar Messages

  • Mid-2011 Macbook Air with very slow wifi yet with OSX 10.9.1

    Yes, I am opening yet another topic on this pretty old issue because I am too confused with all that I have read so far (as also have not found a recent case similar to mine).
    I have a mid-2011 Macbook Air i5 13'.
    My home wireless network works just fine and smooth with a Macbook Pro Core 2 Duo and a humble Acer Aspire One D270 netbook.
    With my Macbook Air, connection is useless. If I want to search something on Google, I'd better off buying myself an air ticket and visiting their HQs to ask them personally to do the search.
    I have tried some "workarounds" with no success. Sometimes the internet seems to get a bit better (I said *a bit*), but nothing even slightly near what I get with my other two computers.
    Where should I begin from?

    Please take all the following steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved. Back up all data before making any changes.
    Step 1
    Take the applicable steps in this support article. The Wireless Diagnostics program generates a large file of information about your system, which would be used by Apple Engineering in case of a support incident. Don't post the contents here.
    Step 2
    Run Software Update and install all available updates for OS X or your computer's firmware.
    Step 3
    If you're not using a wireless keyboard or trackpad, disable Bluetooth by selecting Turn Bluetooth Off from the menu with the Bluetooth icon. If you don't have that menu, open the Bluetooth preference pane in System Preferences and check the box marked Show Bluetooth in menu bar. Test. Continue if you find that Wi-Fi is faster with Bluetooth disabled.
    From that same menu, select Open Bluetooth Preferences. If the box labeled Discoverable is checked, uncheck it. Click the Advanced button, and in the sheet that opens, uncheck the top three boxes, if any are checked. Click OK. Enable Bluetooth and test again.
    If the application called "Bluetooth Setup Assistant" is running, quit it (not applicable to OS X 10.9 or later.)
    Step 4
    Open the Network pane in System Preferences and make a note of your settings in the Wi-Fi service. It may be helpful to take screenshots of the various tabs in the preference pane. If the preference pane is locked, unlock it by clicking the padlock icon and entering your administrator password. Delete Wi-Fi from the service list on the left by selecting it and clicking the minus-sign button at the bottom. Then recreate the service by clicking the plus-sign button and following the prompts.
    Step 5
    Reset the System Management Controller.
    Step 6
    Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service center.

  • Mid 2011 Macbook Air Painfully slow.

    Mid 2011 Macbook Air Painfully slow.
    Hey everyone.  I am writing about my 13 inch Mid 2011 Macbook Air. 
    Recently it has been extremely slow and on occasion has not started up.
    I have reset the PRAM and SMC already, yet it is still very slow.  I have a couple theories about what might have caused it, are they plausible?
    Theory 1:  It’s a software problem. I tried to upgrade to 10.8.2 but halfway through the upgrade the computer restarted and somehow I was still on 10.8.1.  For fear of a big issue happening I didn’t try to upgrade again. Perhaps it is a flaw in Apple’s software update? 
    The important thing to note about this update is that I tried to install 10.8.2 around a month or two weeks BEFORE I started having problems.  So if these issues were due to 10.8.2’s failed update then it certainly was a delayed reaction. 
    I would of course like to update to 10.8.2 BUT as my computer is acting EXTREMELY slow and having trouble turning on occasionally I am worried the software update will completely brick the machine.  Is that possible?  Should I actually finish through with the software update?
    Theory 2:  It was an electricity problem. 
    The computer died when I was sitting at a café plugged into their wall sockets.  A few days later when I came back to the same spot with my old macbook which is now being used in lieu of the Air it suddenly turned black for a little while. Sensing it might be an electricity surge or something with their system I unplugged the cable.  I am not sure if that was paranoia though. 
    Can an electricity surge or a bad outlet fry a computer?  Can it fry the ram so the computer is extremely slow? Does that theory hold any water? 
    Thanks for your help diagnosing this problem.
    All the best. 

    Please read this whole message before doing anything.
    This procedure is a diagnostic test. It won’t solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
    Third-party system modifications are a common cause of usability problems. By a “system modification,” I mean software that affects the operation of other software — potentially for the worse. The following procedure will help identify which such modifications you've installed. Don’t be alarmed by the complexity of these instructions — they’re easy to carry out and won’t change anything on your Mac. 
    These steps are to be taken while booted in “normal” mode, not in safe mode. If you’re now running in safe mode, reboot as usual before continuing. 
    Below are instructions to enter some UNIX shell commands. The commands are harmless, but they must be entered exactly as given in order to work. If you have doubts about the safety of the procedure suggested here, search this site for other discussions in which it’s been followed without any report of ill effects. 
    Some of the commands will line-wrap or scroll in your browser, but each one is really just a single line, all of which must be selected. You can accomplish this easily by triple-clicking anywhere in the line. The whole line will highlight, and you can then either copy or drag it. The headings “Step 1” and so on are not part of the commands. 
    Note: If you have more than one user account, Step 2 must be taken as an administrator. Ordinarily that would be the user created automatically when you booted the system for the first time. The other steps should be taken as the user who has the problem, if different. Most personal Macs have only one user, and in that case this paragraph doesn’t apply. 
    Launch the Terminal application in any of the following ways: 
    ☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.) 
    ☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens. 
    ☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid. 
    When you launch Terminal, a text window will open with a line already in it, ending either in a dollar sign (“$”) or a percent sign (“%”). If you get the percent sign, enter “sh” and press return. You should then get a new line ending in a dollar sign. 
    Step 1 
    Copy or drag — do not type — the line below into the Terminal window, then press return:
    kextstat -kl | awk '!/com\.apple/{printf "%s %s\n", $6, $7}' 
    Post the lines of output (if any) that appear below what you just entered (the text, please, not a screenshot.) You can omit the final line ending in “$”. 
    Step 2 
    Repeat with this line:
    sudo launchctl list | sed 1d | awk '!/0x|com\.(apple|openssh|vix)|edu\.mit|org\.(amavis|apache|cups|isc|ntp|postfix|x)/{print $3}' 
    This time, you'll be prompted for your login password, which won't be displayed when you type it. You may get a one-time warning not to screw up. You don't need to post the warning. 
    Note: If you don’t have a login password, you’ll need to set one before taking this step. If that’s not possible, skip to the next step. 
    Step 3
    launchctl list | sed 1d | awk '!/0x|com\.apple|edu\.mit|org\.(x|openbsd)/{print $3}' 
    Step 4
    ls -1A /e*/mach* {,/}L*/{Ad,Compon,Ex,Fram,In,Keyb,La,Mail/Bu,P*P,Priv,Qu,Scripti,Servi,Spo,Sta}* L*/Fonts 2> /dev/null  
    Important: If you formerly synchronized with a MobileMe account, your me.com email address may appear in the output of the above command. If so, anonymize it before posting. 
    Step 5
    osascript -e 'tell application "System Events" to get name of every login item' 2> /dev/null 
    Remember, steps 1-5 are all drag-and-drop or copy-and-paste, whichever you prefer — no typing, except your password. Also remember to post the output. 
    You can then quit Terminal.

  • Mid 2011 macbook air. command key has popped off and is now missing the 2nd metal bar. can this be replaced?

    The command key popped off my mid 2011 macbook air. It is meant to have two metal bars but can't find the 2nd one. I have clicked it back into place but if I press the button at the bottom the top pops up and I'm worried that if I don't fix the problem I may end up losing the key altogether!
    Can you buy replacement metal bars? should I just remove the other bar completely?
    Thanks in advance.

    Sorry, must have been the crackpipe I smoked last night! LOL
    You won't see anything in the Application Support --> Bootcamp folder unless you have previously downloaded the Windows Support Software. Good find.
    ADDENDUM STEP:
    This step should be placed between 9-10.
    Open Bootcamp Assistant. Uncheck everything BUT, "DOWNLOAD THE LATEST WINDOWS SUPPORT SOFTWARE FROM APPLE". You will be prompted to burn the image to a CD/DVD or save to a USB Key. Save the image to a USB key. This will format your USB key properly in preparation for the files. The download commences and if you're lucky, the files will simply be saved to your USB key without having to manually copy them over to the key using the steps above.
    IMPORTANT - Even if the support software hangs when its being saved to the USB key, you should now be able to navigate to the directory and see the image. Follow the steps above.
    Apologies for missing this.
    Best,
    WBN

  • My mid 2011 MacBook Air has slowed down significantly overnight?

    Last night my MacBook Air was working fine.
    When I went to use it this morning, it has slowed down significantly. It takes awhile for it to respond to trackpad movement or the keyboard. Opening finder is delayed now, opening any app is delayed now. Booting it back up takes extra long now, probably around a minute compared to thirty seconds before.
    I've tried an SMC reset, repairing the disk and repairing disk permissions.
    From what I can see, the hardware doesn't appear to be failing, but I could be wrong.
    Can anyone help me out? What could possibly be going on with my MacBook? How did this happen overnight?

    Your MacBook Air's memory is not upgradable, and as you already determined unused storage capacity is not a relevant factor.
    There are many reasons a Mac may be performing slower than expected.
    Back up your documents and everything else important to you before proceeding.
    To help determine the possible causes of this behaviour read the following. None of what follows is intended to fix anything, but it will provide the additional information required to advance troubleshooting:
    Boot OS X Recovery by holding ⌘ and r (two fingers) while you start your Mac. At the Mac OS X Utilities screen, select Disk Utility. Select your startup volume (usually named "Macintosh HD") and click the Repair Disk button. Describe any errors it reports in red.
    When it finishes restart your Mac and test again for operation. If it's still not behaving as you expect it should, please post the results of EtreCheck in accordance with the following instructions:
    Apple Support Communities contributor etresoft wrote a very useful app to quickly gather certain system information that may help point to a cause of this problem. Go to his website, download and run EtreCheck:
    http://www.etresoft.com/etrecheck
    Etrecheck will be in your Downloads folder. Open it from there. You may see the following dialog box:
    Click Open - etresoft contributes to this forum frequently and can be considered a trustworthy developer.
    It will take a moment to run as it collects its data.
    Copy and paste its output in a reply.
    Do not be concerned about anything that says "Problem" or “failed” or anything else that may appear in red.
    EtreCheck was designed to remove any personal information (such as your computer's name and serial numbers) but if you see anything that looks like an email address or any other personal information that should not be divulged to others, please delete or obscure that information when you post the reply.
    When you are finished with EtreCheck, quit the program. It occupies very little space, and you can keep it or drag it to the Trash as you wish.
    After completing the above please determine if the problems also occur in "Safe Mode":
    Safe Mode or "Safe Boot" is a troubleshooting mode that bypasses all third party system extensions and loads only required system components. Read about it: Starting up in Safe Mode
    You must disable FileVault before you can start your Mac in Safe Mode.
    Starting your Mac in Safe Mode will take longer than usual, graphics will not render smoothly, audio is disabled on some Macs, and some programs (iTunes for example) may not work at all.
    Merely starting your Mac in Safe Mode is not intended to resolve the problem, it's to observe its performance without certain additional components.
    To end Safe Mode restart your Mac normally. Shutdown will take longer as well.
    To identify potential hardware problems: Apple Hardware Test.

  • Slow internet on mid 2011 macbook air

    So my internet is intermittently slow on my macbook air. This has been happening for many months although I cannot remember if it corresponded with upgrading to OS X 10.9. It is sporadic and I cannot identify any precipitating causes or solutions. My internet speed will just randomly drop and then eventually will correct itself where I will have the 15mbps download speed that I am paying for through my ISP. When the internet speed drops I will average 0.6 - 1.5mbps on speediest.net. This seems to be only isolated to my mid 2011 macbook air as my other laptop - a PC, and my iPhone show regular speeds. I have called my ISP and router customer service departments many times with no help. I have replaced my wireless router. Please help. 
    Nothing has worked. I have tried everything that I can think of including:
    1. Installed all OS updates - this seemed to work for about a day and then back to the same slow internet speed
    2. restarting the computer
    3. restarting in safe mode
    4. uninstalled and reinstalled the wifi network
    5. restart modem and router
    6. replaced router with a new model
    7. changed wireless security settings on wireless router and channels'
    8. changed DNS to google 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4
    9 installed onyx and cleaned system
    10. ran virus check
    11. disabled safari plugins
    12. deleted preferences.plist and networkinterfaces.plist
    13 turned off bluetooth on mac
    14. turned off wifi on all other devices
    15. disabling and enabling wifi networks
    16. run diagnostics on wifi - normal

    run diagnostics on wifi - normal
    It's not clear if that was the result of using Apple's Wireless Diagnostics. It may supply some additional helpful information.
    To use it, hold an option key while you click your Mac's Wi-Fi icon, and choose Open Wireless Diagnostics...
    The following authentication dialog will appear:
    Authenticate with your Admin password, then click the Continue button in the following:
    The network analysis and diagnostic tests will take several minutes to complete:
    When it completes, if your wireless network is functioning properly the following will result:
    If something is amiss, supposedly the results will be different and you will be presented with helpful information.
    Assuming your connection is "working as expected" select Continue to summary and click Continue:
    Ignore the pre-populated text field, which is provided as a place for you to type in additional information should Apple ask for it in the course of obtaining technical assistance from them. Apple has no way of knowing where your router is located in your home, and certainly doesn't know if you even have an upstairs bedroom closet.
    Click Continue.
    The next step will also take a few minutes:
    When it finishes, you will be presented with a summary that may or may not be useful to you. Let me know if it is.
    The WirelessDiagnostics-xxx.tar.gz file deposited on your Desktop can be dragged to the Trash, or you may wish to expand it and examine its contents. It's up to you.

  • My mid 2011 MacBook Air fell off my couch onto carpet. Slowed down.

    I made a post a few weeks ago about how my mid 2011 MacBook Air slowed down randomly over night. A few days later it randomly started functioning properly again. I was stoked.
    Today, I was using my MacBook on the couch, when it slipped off and landed on the carpet bottom up with the lid closed.
    The moment I opened it up again, it was back to being slow again.
    I ran the Disk Utility, tried repairing it, it said that the hard drive 'appeared to be ok'
    But yeah. I'm gonna say it's a pretty safe to assume that the drop has everything to do with the slow response time.
    Would anyone happen to know what actually might have went wrong, though?

    I would think a poor connection of some sort, may be a plug and socket or a soldered joint problem. I think you need to take it in for repair, I cannot think it will be software that is causing the fault, but...... you never know.

  • Can my mid 2011 macbook air be upgraded to wifi 802.11ac?

    Can my mid 2011 macbook air be upgraded to wifi 802.11ac? I am considering replacing my 802.11n router with the 802.11ac time capsule. Will this effect my download speed on my 802.11n macbook air (mid 2011)? can it be upgraded?

    No, you cannot change the Wi-Fi hardware in your Mac. The Time Capsule is still worth it due to its ability to make backups of your Mac via Time Machine.

  • My mid-2011 MacBook Air bricks itself after 10.7.2 update

    I have a new MacBook Air (11") that was working just great, until today.  Today, I used Software Update to install the updates, which included 10.7.2 as well as the recue partition update.
    I did everything you're supposed to do, and when it rebooted, the gray screen comes up, and it shows the spinny doohickey on the bottom showing that it's working.  Then, suddenly, up pops a big "no" icon (the circle with the slash through it) after about 60 seconds.
    It simply doesn't do anything after that.
    Hard-power-off, wait, power-on, repeat, same thing.
    So I reboot with cmd-R to get the rescue partition. It works fine; I ask it to re-install Mac OS X, which then takes about 45 minutes (argh).  Finally, Mac OS X is back, the machine is nicely booted up, all my files are there, everything is good.. But of course, the reinstall took me back to 10.7.1.
    All I want to do is upgrade my fricking iPhone to IOS 5.0, but I can't do that without knowing I can sync which requires iCloud which of course requires 10.7.2.  So I *have* to re-do the upgrade.
    Back to Software Update, back to installing 10.7.2. And .. 20 minutes later .. back to bricked MacBook Air.
    What a waste of my time. What a failure, Apple. I'm very very very very very unhappy that I've wasted so much time just to update my damned iPhone to IOS 5. I'm still without an update. Now I'm trying to figure out how to move my iTunes to another machine -- not nearly as obvious as it should be.  ARGH. I'm going to throw this MacBook Air off the balcony in about 10 minutes. :-(
    Thanks for listening.
      Steve

    Wow, you're right -- I can't believe it. I just really can't believe they would screw up so badly, yet when I search for "10.7.2 filevault" I don't find more than a couple of articles about it on the web (including this thread). Why on earth wouldn't Apple have put up some kind of warning about this? I can't believe it, really. It's insane.
    On my newly-functional 10.7.2 MBA, I wanted to test your theory and so I turned on filevault 2 and encrypted the main disk again.  It of course wanted me to reboot. So I rebooted. And *blammy* -- same error / boot failure.  Wow.  Also, interestingly, even on a working 10.7.2 system, you can't mount a USB drive that was encrypted using Filevault 2 encryption (in Disk Utility, e.g., as a "Mac OS X, journalled, encrypted" volume that was encrypted with DiskUtility on Lion 10.7.1).  I still have a 10.7.1 machine that I will not upgrade until I can at least decrypt the disk -- but right now, Disk Utility tells me it fails decrypting the external USB disk so I'm hosed!!! ARGH.
    Now, going back to the booting problem after upgrade -- for anyone's reference who's still keeping score -- you can easily recover from the booting problem with upgrading a Filevault 2 root drive: Power-cycle the machine and then hold down cmd-r to bring up the Lion Recovery application.  Within Lion Recovery, choose "Disk Utility", and then click on the (as yet unmounted, still encrypted) root hard drive to select it. Then go to the File menu, and choose "Turn off encryption" for this disk.  It then prompts you for the password, and if you enter it, *blammy* you're back up and running again.
    In my case, the disk had only just begun encrypting so the action was instant, and then once it confirmed the disk was now decrypted, I simply chose "Restart" from the Apple menu, and I was back in business (no hairy re-installs to deal with).  If this is an already-encrypted volume, presumably it'll take you a bit longer (the normal 45-minutes to 2 hours) to decrypt it.  But at least no more installing software -- it'll "just work".
    Maybe I'll go post a simpler version of these instructinos on the other threads, but this is the simplest fix -- just turn off filevault 2 from within Lion Recovery, basically, and that fixes the boot problems.
    Apple, if you're listening, you really really really need to say something to your users so they know. Many many many MBA users are likely to have still not upgraded. You can prevent them from hating you and your products by making sure they don't screw the pooch here.  Short version: Mid-2011 MacBook Airs running Filevault 2 WILL NOT BOOT after 10.7.2 update; so users should turn off Filevault2 before upgrading.
      Steve

  • My Mid-2011 Macbook Air becomes extremely hot when installing apps from the Mac App Store and when deleting apps

    My Mid-2011 Macbook Air 13-inch (OSX 10.8.1 Mountain Lion) becomes hot to the touch when trying to delete large documents, watching videos after waking it from sleep-mode and when installing applications from the Mac App Store. This has also been happening with OSX Lion before I upgraded it to Mountain Lion.

    The Apple Support Communities are an international user to user technical support forum. As a man from Mexico my first language is Spanish. I do not speak English, however I do write in English with the aid of the Mac OS X spelling and grammar checks. I also live in a culture perhaps very very different from your own. When offering advice in the ASC, my comments are not meant to be anything more than helpful and certainly not to be taken as insults.
    What needed to be done the day that you set up the new Mac was go into the Mac App Store (MAS), sign into your iTunes/MAS Apple ID, go to the Purchases pane and Accept the iLife apps that would have been there in a special section. That would have sent you Mac's unique identifier code to Apple's servers and verified that this Mac was eligible for the bundled iLife suite and then registered these apps into your MAS account.
    You might try going to  ~/Library/Caches/com.apple.appstore/adoption.plist, delete the adption plist, restart the Mac and then go to the Purchaes pane and see if you can Accept the apps into your account.

  • Mid 2011 Macbook Air - Yosemite keyboard and trackpad stopped working, the only button that worked was the power button, only one USB port works.

    I have a Mid 2011 Macbook Air.
    Upgraded to Yosemite last week.
    Three days ago I was using my Macbook Air for the first time since upgrading to Yosemite. I had been using my Macbook Air for approximately 30 minutes, I was using safari and the keyboard and trackpad stopped working (would not respond). The only button that worked was the power button.
    I rebooted and they were still not working. I plugged in a USB mouse and external USB keyboard, only one USB port would work (the Left USB port if looking at the screen) so I had to swap between keyboard and mouse.
    After logging in there is a bluetooth icon at the top of the screen with a sawtooth line through it. Bluetooth is unavailable and the bluetooth icon is missing from the system preferences menu.
    If I run a hardware test by holding D (on USB keyboard) at startup it says that no problems are found and at the conclusion of the test the keyboard and trackpad start working again. When I log on the bluetooth is working again.
    I shut down the Macbook Air and when I started it again the keyboard and trackpad and right side USB ports were all not working again. I logged in using the USB keyboard and mouse and the bluetooth not available sawtooth icon had returned.
    I ran the hardware test again and at the conclusion of the test the trackpad and keyboard started working again.
    I have tried deleting com.apple.Bluetooth.plist and com.apple.Bluetooth.plist.lockfile from /Library/Preferences/ and tried resetting SMC and Power Functions but this did not fix the issue. The only thing that seems to work is running a hardware test - obviously I don't want to do this every time I use the computer.
    I do not believe any hardware is faulty/damaged - I think it has something to do with bluetooth/Yosemite.
    I do not have the Macbook with me at the moment, if you have suggestions that I can try or additional checks/info you require please let me know and I can get back to you.
    Thanks,
    John

    Hi!
    I have exactly the same problem, and I can't find any solution.
    I can't even track down the root of the problem: the Bluetooth/Wifi module? The trackpad? The keyboard/top case? The logicboard?
    I've tried all the usual: SMC/PRAM reset, clean install, kext cache clearing.
    Any suggestion is greatly appreciated!

  • Getting Windows 7 on the Mid 2011 MacBook Air EASILY *TESTED*

    Greetings!
    As this is my first post, I wanted to make it count. Thus I have decided to compile a simple guide on EASILY getting Windows 7 installed on to your mid-2011 MacBook Air.
    I have been following the many threads around here regarding the trouble people are having getting Windows 7 installed on to their Mid-2011 MacBook Air's. I have read complaints of Windows Support Software (drivers) downloads taking too long, of not being able to save the Windows Support Software correctly to a USB key, etc, etc.
    The following process is relatively simple, but not as simple as it should be. I'm quite certain as Lion matures, some of the Bootcamp issues we have been having will be remediated.
    This procedure has been tested on the following platform:
    Mid-2011 11" MacBook Air ~ 1.6GHz i5, 4GB RAM, 128GB Flash (SSD) HDD
    What's Wrong?:
    1. On the MacBook Air platform specifically, users are expected to have a Windows 7 ISO before beginning. Some users have stated that this can be accomplished easily using the DISK UTILITY ISO CREATION FEATURE. THIS WILL NOT WORK. THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF PUTTING THE WINDOWS 7 ISO ONTO A USB KEY IS MAKING IT BOOTABLE! You need to make the USB key you're installing to bootable, plain and simple.
    2. I tested the Windows Support Software drivers after downloading them and the Intel HD3000 GPU and Sound Drivers do not install properly.
    3. Creating a Windows 7 Startup Disk through Bootcamp hangs.
    What You'll Need:
    1. A Windozzze box
    2. A DVD-ROM Drive
    3. Internet Access (for downloading a Win7 ISO in case you don't have a Win7 install DVD and other necessary utilities)
    4. ISODisk - http://www.isodisk.com/ - 100% FREE
    5. Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool - http://download.cnet.com/Windows-7-USB-DVD-Download-Tool/3000-18513_4-10972600.h tml- 100% FREE (you may also acquire this tool from Microshaft)
    6. A little patience
    7. A LEGAL Windows 7 license to activate Windows 7 after 30 days.
    8. 2 FORMATTED USB DRIVES.
    NOTE: Technically you only need 1 USB drive, however, you will need to get the Bootcamp drivers from OS X onto a USB key. To make this easy, the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool will format one drive as an NTFS partition and the other drive should be formatted as a simple MS-FAT partition (can do this through DISK UTILITY, if you don't know how, Google it, very simple).
    Let's Get'r Done:
    1. Boot up your Windoze box.
    2. Insert your Windows 7 Install DVD into your DVD-ROM.
    3. (OPTIONAL) This step may be performed in lieu of step #2 if you don't have a Windows 7 Install DVD, download a Windows 7 ISO (don't download illegaly) from Microsoft. You may skip to step #6 if this is how you're to proceed.
    4. Download and install ISODisk.
    5. Create an ISO of your Windows 7 Install DVD - Select the DVD within the ISODisk app, choose a name and save location, create your ISO. *This takes a bit to complete*.
    6. Download and install the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool.
    7. Open the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool, ensure you have inserted the USB key you intend to use for Windoze 7, once the ISO has been created from step #5 or you already have one from step #2, select the USB button and create your USB/Windows 7 ISO Disk (all this does is place the necessary Windows 7 boot files on the USB key so that the Windows 7 ISO may be booted from the USB key).
    8. Once complete, safely eject your Windows 7 USB key and move on over to your beautiful Mac. Place the Windows 7 USB Key aside for the time being.
    9. Once booted, place the second USB key (the USB key you intend to use for your Bootcamp drivers) into your beautiful Mac. Ensure that it's formatted as MS-FAT, you can do this via DISK UTILITY, Google it if you don't know how.
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    Best,
    WBN

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