Mini 110, dc input does not seem to make a secure connection to the male end of the power adapter.

the plug does make contact when plugged in fully but the sligtest movement disconnects the adapter. It does not make connection till pressedin again. The end on the first plug in adapter that came with the netbook came out of the plastic at a slight angle and would not make connection unless the right angle was pointed down so that the high part of the plastic around the plug would be towards the bottom of the computers rounded side. HP sent me a new adapter plug that was straight and it does make contact with the plug in any position but the contact is not very postive. Since my net book is still under warrnanty I would like to know if this is just the way it is or if my internal connection is not correct. the pin inside the internal plug is tight and does not wiggle at all.

The 192.168 prefix suggests that you are on a home network. It is possible you're internal IP address changed from 1 to 2 (or whatever). Buried in the db_1 folders is that folder you mentioned. I made a copy of it named localhost and then everything worked.

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ZR65MC camcorder does not turn on with battery in position unless the power adapter is plugged in

Bought a ZR65MC camcorder in 2003. Enjoyed it so much, but a couple of yrs. ago, the tape compartment stopped opening. I just purchased another ZR65MC (used) on ebay in hopes that I could at least get the videos off & onto DVDs. Also, we are planning trip to Yellowstone soon, so camera/camcorder will be nice. Problem: The used one does not turn on with a fully charged battery unless the power adapter is plugged in. I assume battery is good because it turns on my older camera. I do need backup batteries in both, but have not done this yet. Please tell me I have not purchased a bad camera, maybe just doing something wrong? Would have never purchased a used camera online, but did this time. I have ordered a new battery BP-522 with wall charger. It should arrive next week. Any suggestions?

Hi Sharon72064,
If the new battery won't power the camcorder without the Compact Power Adapter, unfortunately, it's likely that an internal component has malfunctioned.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

WET54G does not seem to make WRT300N signal better

Greetings,
A friend of mine is using a WRT300N, firmware v0.93.3, as his router for both wireless and wired connections. The signal does not reach the other side of his house for whatever reason. The router is less than 25 feet from the other side of the house but the signal does not reach, so he purchased a WET54G. I set it up for him, while it was hardwired to one of the computers, then I unplugged it and moved it about 15 feet or so away from the WRT300N and kept it wireless. It does not seem to make the signal any better at the other side of the house. I went into the WET54G's settings and performed the Site Survey, selected the WRT300N's SSID and everything seemed to connect just fine. Is there anything else to this? What else could I try to make this signal better? I feel that there is probably some obstacles in the way of the signal, like an electrical breaker room and an air conditioning unit, as well as some dry wall, but I didn't think that would make a big deal. Anyway, here is some pertinent information about the devices, maybe my settings are just not right. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also any recommendations on antenna's would be appreciated as well. Thanks in advance.
WET54G:
SSID: home
Network Type: Infrastructure
Security is Enabled and set to WPA Pre-Shared, TKIP, same password as WRT300N
Device Ip: 192.168.0.109
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Gateway: 192.168.0.10
Transmission Rate: Auto
Authentication Type: Open
Threshold: 2347
Frag Threshold: 2346
Cloning Mode: Disabled
WRT300N:
SSID:home
Network Mode: Mixed (Which N,B, & G)
Radio Band: Wide-40Mhz Channel
Wide channel: 3
Standard Channel: 5 - 2.432GHZ
SSID Broadcast: Enabled
Wireless Security: PSK Personal, TKIP, same pass as WET54G
Mac Filter is Disabled
Device Ip: 192.168.0.1
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Start Ip: 192.168.0.100
Maxium Number of Users: 10
Also, when I go to DHCP Reservation, which I am not using, I do not see the WET54G, but the desktop and the four labtops are listed.
All the settings on the WRT300N, under Advance Wireless Settings are all default.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Message Edited by MeGGa on 04-21-200705:44 PM

I am a little confused by your post. Are you using the WET to receive a wireless connection from the WRT300N, or are you trying to use the WET to retransmit the wireless signal, and thereby increase your wireless range?   The WET is designed only to receive a signal, then pass it along an ethernet wire to the computer's ethernet port.
The WET54G is set to an improper fixed LAN IP address. Fixed (static) LAN IP addresses must be OUTSIDE the DHCP server range. Your DHCP server range is 192.168.0.100 thru 192.168.0.109.    I would suggest you set your WET to 192.168.0.226 (similar to its default), unless you have another device at that address. At least get it out of your DHCP server range.   Because 192.168.0.226 is automatically recognized as a fixed LAN IP address, you do not need to make a "DHCP Reservation" for it.    Additionally, the gateway on the WET should be the same as the WRT300N's address, 192.168.0.1
I'm not sure why you are getting such a poor wireless range. However, there is no reason to expect the WET54G to have any more range than an ordinary wireless g card, unless you have put a high gain antena on it, like the HGA7S.
Your WRT300N would be expected to have its best range if the computer that you were connecting to used a Linksys wireless N adapter.
Also, make sure your WRT300N is properly located. Try to minimize the obstructions between the router and computer. Make sure the router is placed in an open area, and several feet up off the floor.   Do not place it behind your computer monitor, or with other obstructions around it. The antennas should be verticle. I am not sure of how to position that square antenna - perhaps twisting it to the right or left might help.
Make sure the WRT300N has a unique SSID. Do not use "linksys". Do not use any SSID that your neighbors are using.
Poor wireless connections are often caused by radio interference from other 2.4 GHz devices. This includes wireless phones, wireless baby monitors, Bluetooth (including Bluetooth game controllers), microwave ovens, wireless mice and keyboards, and your neighbor's wireless network. Even some 5+ GHz phones also use the 2.4 Ghz band. Unplug these devices, and see if that corrects your problem.
In your router, try a different channel. There are 11 channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Usually channel 1, 6, or 11 works best. Check out your neighbors, and see what channel they are using. Because the channels overlap one another, try to stay at least +5 or -5 channels from your strongest neighbors. For example, if you have a strong neighbor on channel 9, try any channel 1 through 4.
Also, you might want to try separating your own channels. I see you are using 3 and 5.   Maybe further apart would help.
Hope this helps.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 04-22-200705:42 AM
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 04-22-200705:45 AM
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 04-22-200705:50 AM
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 04-22-200706:10 AM
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 04-22-200706:11 AM

My photo stream does not seem to be working as before with the new PHOTOS update. some of my devices are not getting the uploads/downloads

My photo stream does not seem to be working as before with the new PHOTOS update. Some of my devices are not getting the uploads/downloads, anyone have this problem?

Recommend that you post your question in "Photos".
Remember, Photos is not a replacement for Aperture.

I have a Trust eSATA II ExpressCard which does not seem to be being picked up by the OS. Can anyone help?

I have a Trust eSATA II ExpressCard which does not seem to be being picked up by the OS. The Sata controller icon on the top bar is shown but only with the option to 'Power off Card'. I have a seagate 1TB Goflex drive attached to it via their own eSATA cable.
My Macbook Pro is 2.2Ghz Intel Cor i7 with an 256GB SSD drive and running Lion 10.7.2
Can you help?
Thanks!

Hi,
For what it's worth, I picked up the same Trust eSATA I ExpressCard and had the same problem. The post of DrFrankenmac at https://discussions.apple.com/message/8108772#8108772 solved my problem.
You need to download the BASE Driver for PCI-E Sil3132 (32-bit) from http://www.american-media.com/support/downloadDDDS2350S.html that works just fine.

I have a mid-2011 iMac running Mavericks. When I click restart the computer goes to a white screen with a spinning circle and does not go any further until I hold down the power button to turn it off. What do I do?

I have a mid-2011 iMac running Mavericks. When I click restart the computer goes to a white screen with a spinning circle and does not go any further until I hold down the power button to turn it off. What do I do?

Ok, sounds like the safe mode boot worked... You probably don't want to always be in safe mode though (some reduced functionality) so does it do a normal boot now? If not, you should then reboot into safe mode and run Disk Utility. Then select Macintosh HD on the left hand side, and click the Verify Disk button. If needed, it will ask you to Repair Disk. If there are errors found, Repair Disk again until there are none. Then try another normal boot and reply with result, wether good or bad.

My mbp seems to "leak" current when connected to the power grid. Am I the first to notice?

My mac book seems to "leak" current when connected to the power grid. Am I the first to notice?

Grounded or not, this should not occur. Grounding is just for safety not to keep working on a leaking machine. What does Apple say about this. When I return from holiday I will contact them and find out. In the mean time thanks for the feedback.

My ipad will no longer connect to the laptop. it comes up with usb not recognized. also when trying to connect to the power the first time i connect, nothing, but when i unplug from ipad and plug in a second time it charges

my ipad will no longer connect to the laptop. it comes up with usb not recognized. also when trying to connect to the power the first time i connect, nothing, but when i unplug from ipad and plug in a second time it charges

yeah tried all that. the only thing that i havent tried is to delete itunes completely and restart. its the same with the ipad. i havent done a master reset. i just think it has to be something rather simple as it acknowledges that i have plugged in the ipad as it makes the noise it just come up usb not recognized. it shows up as an unknown device that doestn have any drivers
its driving me round the bend at the minute

In large PDF files my cursor moves around the page at warp speed. It does not seem to make any difference if I slow it down with Sys Prefs. This is not only in preview but also other programs to open PDFs.

In large PDF files the cursor moves at warp speed with a mind of it's own, I've tried slowing it down in Sys Pref with no luck. On small files cursor action is normal. This happens in Safari, Preview and other programs that use PDF files. Sorry to say this does not seem to be a new problem with 7.# I've had it with prvevious versions of operating system Right now I'm using a Apple wireless mouse and key board. Using the USB keyboard and mouse the same problem does not go away.

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.”
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your personal files or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
*Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you boot, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal boot may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, reboot as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of Steps 1 and 2.

Officejet 4622, new printer today. black does not seem to work at all but all the colors do.

I print a test page through diagnostic tool and black square is blank. I cannot tell if the alignment prints properly as I have no example of what it should look like to ensure it is correct since the alignment fails to detect the alignment page. Scans work fine. I tried cleaning the print heads and still don't seem to get black to work correctly. This is a new printer purchased today 9.30.2012.

just in case anyone else encounters this problem, heres whats really going on and heres how to fix this annoying issue. its relatively easy to do and more efficient than wasting money on a new printer or having it repaired like most people end up doing.
whats going on? the ink has clogged the printing heads and has solidified shut. the "clean print heads" feature the printer came with does not have the ability to fix this. that feature is to clean up dirty heads, not clogged heads. why hp decided to make this model without a simple to remove cradle is beyond me, but fortunately the cradle DOES come out and can be cleaned with hot water.
theres a few items you will need to make this happen the easy way or you could just break out the tree limb loppers, like i did, and vent your frustrations.
what you will need: a pair of needle nosed pliers, a T9 torx screwdriver head ( auto parts stores sell them for a couple bucks), some paper towels and an area to work (its easiest to do this in a corner of a room, on a small table or the floor). keep in mind you are dealing with ink, so change out of your good clothes just in case and also grab a paper plate or a few sheets of printing paper to set the ink cartridges on as you work.
1) ok. lets get started. !!!FIRST UNPLUG THE PRINTER RIGHT NOW, SO YOU DONT ACCIDENTALLY DIE BY ELECTROCUTION!!! i forgot and when i began unscrewing the first 6 screws, the chime kept going off and im like **bleep**? i was impressed by the safety measures hp took while engineering this model.
2) the printer is now unplugged and then go to your corner work area and place the printer so there is a wall or barrier on its left and also a wall or barrier behind it. do this while facing it as if you were about to use it.
3) now, what you have to do is open the printer like you are going to change the ink and on the right side there is a plastic guide that prevents the top from opening all the way. look on the side and you will notice it could pop off with your fingers. pop it off and open it all the way open so you could get at the screws the lid would have prevented you from accessing.
4) lean the scanner portion and top portion against the back wall.
5) all screws you will be removing are size T9H torx screws. there are ten total. there are 2 black screws in the front top and then 4 black screws in the back top. remove them and put them on your paper plate.
6) next is 1 short silver colored screw located under the control panel, use your finger and feel around beneath the * button. unscrew it, put it on the paper plate.
7) next you are going to remove the face/control panel to get at the last 3 screws so locate the little illustrations on the top of the printer, there are 2 on the bottom left and 5 on the bottom right (1 and 2 on the left explain paper jam removals and then 1-5 on the right explain changing ink cartridges). then about half an inch south of the number 5 illustration, on the lip, is a plastic bracket. six inches to the left is another one then 6 more inches to the left, under the illustration number 2 (paper jam removal) is a third bracket. undo them using your fingernails. and just flip it up like car hood and then lay it down on the main top portion of the printer, minding the flat wire which is connected into the circuit board of the control panel (if the flat wire popped out because you got too rowdy on it, then simply insert it back in when you reassemble).
8) next, unscrew the 3 longer silver screws which are located under the panel you just popped off. there is 1 on the left and 2 on the rightish side. toss em on the paper plate.
9) now that all the screws are removed, take the face panel and partially pop it back together.
10) then take the whole top ( the part with the little illustrations and lift it like a car hood, ONLY THIS TIME OPEN IT TO THE LEFT and balance it on the edge of the printer, leaning it towards the wall or barrier on your left. BE CAREFUL NOT TO YANK ON THE FRUIT STRIPE COLORED WIRES ON THE LEFT AND ALSO THE BLACK FLAT WIRE THAT CONNECTS THE SCANNING PORTION TO THE MAIN PORTION OF THE PRINTER.
11) next grab the needle nose pliers and remove the 2 silver colored tension springs located behind the printer cartridges. pay attention where they were attached so you remember where they go during assembly. take a pic with your phone if you have to or simply re-figure it out like i did. toss em on the paper plate.
12) then disconnect the 2 large flat wires and 1 small flatwire attached to the back of the ink carriage. take a picture or remember like i did. i imagine bad things may occur if you reverse them on re-assembly. grab the phone and take a quik pic to be sure.
13) now remove the ink carriage, cartridges and all, by lifting the front first. be careful of the little transparent ribbon in there that moves the carriage left to right and vice versa. you dont want to damage that little guy. now take the carriage to your paper plate. dont drip any ink or accidentally get it on your fingers without knowing or you will make a mess.
14) remove the ink cartridges and set them on the paper plate, ink side up to avoid a mess, these things sometimes drip. set the plate off to the side. its time to clean the print heads.
15) then go to the sink, with the empty ink carriage and turn the water on hot and then just let the empty ink carriage sit there with the water mainly going through the screen of the clogged color (inspect and make sure there isnt a little rubber gasket surrounding the little screen if there is dont lose it. i didnt look too closely and i dont think hp has them but i know some other printers do). it wont stain the sink but wash down any ink as it comes out to be sure. also notice there is a small circuit board attached to it. dont bang it up but getting it wet doesnt matter.
16) keep doing this until the water runs clear.
17) then use your finger and rub the screen gently with your finger and then rinse it, washing away the ink until the water runs clear. continue this until there is no more ink and the screens are clean. do it to all the colors just for good measures. the problem color that wouldnt print, you will notice takes longer to clean than the other colors.
18) now look on the bottom side of the carriage. those wierd looking things are the heads. rinse them with hot water and wipe them with paper towels. then flip it over and blast the screen side again. also in between the screenside and the heads (on the side of the carriage) is an opening that is also probably gunked up. blast it with water too. then flip it over and wipe the heads again. repeat this step until nothing wipes away or until you are sick and tired.
19) shake off then use paper towels to dry the entire unit. make sure the unit is dry. especially inside the female plugs. blow in it or break out the hair dryer and gently dry it. dont sit there and melt it though with the blow dryer. but the sooner it dries the less likely your ink cartridges sitting on the paper plate will dry out. the ink wont dry out fast just dont take a nap or go out on a date until you are reassembled with the ink portion.
20) now you have completed the cleaning of the heads and probably wont need to do this again for the length of time it was since you bought the printer. and just like a roadtrip you used a map to navigate, you will use these instructions in reverse for re-assembly. but keep in mind when re-inserting the 3 flatwires you disconnected from the back of the ink carriage, make sure you have the little metal contact points on the flatwires (male side) inserted so they touch the little metal contact points on the carriage plugs (female side). ALSO BE EXTRA CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE BLACK FLATWIRE CONNECTING THE SCANNER PORTION TO THE MAIN PRINTER PORTION. THERE IS A LITTLE GROOVE IN THE PLASTIC WHERE IT CAN BE SEATED TO GUARANTEE NO CRIMPAGE. USE IT. also make sure the 2 hinges of the scanner portion/lid are seated properly before fastening the the top with the 6 black screws.
now re-assemble the printer and reinstall the ink cartridges. and then plug in the unit, and turn it on. if you get any notifications on the control panel saying the carriage wont move, then open the hood and take out the ink cartridges, push around and make sure the carriage is seated properly and that the tensioner springs are in place properly. repeat if neccesary until notifications go away or just do a test print and disregard the notification if you messed with it already a few times. thats what happened to me and the notification went away on its own. once its online, open the hp utilities and press the "clean the heads" button. do it 2x in a row and you will be back in style, with extremely rich and bold colors and yes, raven black print.
p.s.
you can always take your aggressions out with the tree limb loppers or the tin snips like i did and snip out the center plastic that prevents you from taking the carriage directly out. this eliminates disassembly and re-assembly entirely. just make sure you DO NOT CUT THE TRANSPARENT RIBBON THAT MOVES THE CARRIAGE BACK AND FORTH. this way the next time it happens it only takes you 10 minutes before you are up and printing.
enjoy! - Porf

HT2693 I purchased Huawei Dongle and trying to connect with my NEW MacBook Pro (OS- Mountain Lion) USB port 3.0 but unfortunately it does not support. When I plugged in my the power is flowing in dongle due green light blinking twice in every 3 sec but no

Hi,
I purchased Huawei Dongle and trying to connect with my new MacBook Pro (OS- Mountain Lion) USB port 3.0 but unfortunately it does not support.
When I plugged in my macbook the power is flowing in dongle due green light blinking twice in every 3 sec but no connection found or diver shown.
Please let me know how I have to use it. I got some suggestion for USB hub 2.0 but It does not make any sense and driver installation.
So please suggest proper direction to use it and provide link to install any driver.
Thanks
Tauheed Ahmad

Yes Clinton I did same, but they were (Huawei customer support) surprised about this problem, They behave like they have no idea about USB 2.0 and 3.0 knowledge. They handsUp that reason I posted my problem in this forum.
So is there any better solution to use any mediator between these USB version handling, Please let me know.
Thanks
Tauheed

Thunderbolt-Display: Screen does not light up randomly after reconnect it to the power grid.

So, I got myself really lucky a few days ago and got a "faulty" Thunderbolt display for ridiculously cheap.
So far it is working perfectly, yet the previous owner told me that the screen stays dark occasionally, although the device is recognized my the Mac.
I could track down the problem somewhat to the fact, that this only happens when you disconnect the Display completely from power grid, forcing it to shut down instead of going into standby. I recognized this after relocating it to my home and plugging it in again. After a few times replugging it, it went to work again and it is totally fine.
Does anybody know what this can be connected to? Damaged inverter? As I said it works flawlessly, but I have it now plugged in constantly anyway. I just seek some more information what could come my way in the future worst case. Considering I expected to get a new panel I'm totally happy.
Thanks for any help.

To have the screen light up, you need to go into Notifications and set it to be seen in the lock screen. See the User Guide for help with Notifications. http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/iphone_user_guide.pdf

Application manager insisting I "renew my subscription" but I have a standalone version of acrobat. Any way to convince the manager that my product is registered? There does not seem to be any manual additions in the application manager app.

I am using Mac OS X (yosemite). I had a creative cloud student subscription for a year (expired in September) and I did not renew. However, I did purchase adobe acrobat XI. I am not sure of the exact day it stopped working (before or after OS upgrade), but now the application manager takes over after I start acrobat and insists I do not have a subscription and must renew. I checked the web and my product is registered and I have the serial number, which I enter upon installation. I've uninstalled and reinstalled everything to no avail. I even contacted adobe and they seemed to have a hard time understanding why I was having a problem since the product was registered. I could not devote much time to the online chat so needless to say, my problem still persists.

Moving this discussion to the Acrobat Installation & Update issues forum.
Adugasjr please remove your current installation of Acrobat and reinstall. If you need a fresh copy of the installation files they are available at Download Acrobat products | Standard, Pro | XI, X.

HT4623 I have an iPad 1 (original) and there does not seem to be an update available as the device tells me that I have the latest version iOS 5.1.1

Need to know how to update my iPad 1 to iOS 6.0 or better? I have iOS 5.1.1 and the device shows not updates available as this is supposed to be the latest update.??????

sparker2512 wrote:
Need to know how to update my iPad 1 to iOS 6.0 or better? I have iOS 5.1.1 ...
The iPad 1 can only update as far as iOS 5.1.1

HT201401 my microphone does not seem to be working since i did the last software update. any idea's

I can record voice notes no problem, but when i make calls the recepient cannot hear me.
I did a full restore and had one succesful call and that was it.
tried calling with and without the cover no luck.
phone is only two weeks old,problem only started once i did the latest software update. vs5.1.1
any idea's?

Basic troubleshooting steps clearly outlined in the User Guide are restart, reset, restore from backup, restore as new device.
If you've gone through ALL the troubleshooting steps and you're still having problems, there's really not much left to recommend. You'll need to bring your phone into Apple for evaluation.
Best of luck.
GDG

Mini 110, dc input does not seem to make a secure connection to the male end of the power adapter.

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