Mirrorless Camera Selection - Kit Lens only?
Bestbuy should carry these cameras with the option of buying the body only, w/ prime lens or kit lens. I really do not see the reason for buying a pocket size camera and only using a huge kit lens .
Most people will never buy another lens so the kit lens will be a popular choice. Still some of us already have the kit lens or replace their pocket camera with a mirrorless+prime lens.
Hi msocor,
I completely hear where you are coming from on this, and if I was ever to purchase a compact system camera I would be purchasing it as a more portable option to my DSLR. I have forwarded your idea onto the appropriate team here at our corporate headquarters.
Thanks for posting,
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
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Similar Messages
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Since upgrade of IOS, my once dependable camera connection kit will only import landscape photos from my Sony Alpha DSLR, but red exclaimation symbol only for portrait format. Any ideas why?
I am using an ipad2 with the latest operating system upgrade. My problems started with the upgrade to v6. Before that, portrait and landscape pics were uploaded from camera with no problems.Hi,
I'm from germany so no 'best buy' but I think I will lock around sleeve/bag for a different product with same measures. Any tip?
The clear plastic case is not what I want. I would like to use the player without such protections. I just want a sleeve to protect the player while its in my jacket/pants.
Btw, i have bought this version: Creative Zen (maybe european version?). I also doesn't seem to have your mentioned sleeve. I also couldn't find it on the website.
Anyway, thank you,
Chris -
Is there a limit on the size of SDHC card that can be read with the iPad camera connectioin kit?
Is there a limit on the size of SDHC card that can be read with the iPad camera connection kit?
I've successfully connected 32 gig SDHC and CF cards so if there is an upper limit, it's at least 32 gig.
I know SDXC will not work.
With the cards that don't work, have they been formatted correctly? the camera connection kit will only read cards holding images. (Well, it'll only see the images) And those images have to have a file name of exactly 8 characters (DSC_2342 for example) and they have to be in a folder named DCIM.
Anything else it wont' read.
I put a photo on there called 'Christmas' and the connection kit won't see it. I put a photo on there in the DCIM folder named XMAS2342 it'll see that.
So it's possible that those cards weren't read because they weren't speaking the right language. -
How to import video to ipad using camera connection kit
how to import video from my camera to ipad using camera connection kit? only my still photos seem to import.
I have a Kodak Zi8 and none of my videos came across during my sync as well? Haven't taken the time to check formats yet but looking for way to bring them over? Do I have to move to iMovie somehow?
Message was edited by: NDZNO1 -
I am trying to get photos from a friends i pad to mine so that I can make a slide show for him. I tried using my i pad camera connection kit with a SDHC card in it and followed the instructions in the manual. I got to the part where it had me select COPY from the drop down menu. When I did that nothing happened. Can this be done at all?
only option is to download an app for bluetooth transfer which may be quite slow, checkout 'Bump' or search for photo transfer or similar.
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I have just purchased the new iPad with the camera connection kit. I just want to be able insert my SD card into the Pad and view my photos, not import them.Can this be done and how? Please advise. Thank you.
See this article: iPad: Using the iPad Camera Connection Kit
No, this canot be done, afaik. When your camera or card is connected, you will see the thumbnails in the camera pane, but not full size preview. So to browse your photos on the iPad you will need to import them to your camera roll. But you need not delete them from the camera or card after importing, so you might simply import selected photos to your camera roll from the camera grid and then delete them again from the camera roll after importing and browsing, without removing them from the card/camera.
Regards
Léonie -
I am trying to import photo's on i photo. It downloads all of the pictures on my camera, how do i only select the photos i want? Is there a way to do this without selecting one photo at a time? is there a way to select multiple images? thanks!
To select consecutive images click and drag the cursor over multiple thumbnails to select all at once.
To select multiple images that are randomly located hold down the Command(⌘) key and click on those images you want to select.
Or to select consecutive images from a list of images that are together hold down the Shift key and and click on the first photo you want to select and the on the last photo you want in the list.
OT -
Sony 20.1MP Mirrorless Camera with 16-50mm Lens (A5000)
Looking for Sony 20.1MP Mirrorless Camera with 16-50mm Lens (A5000) - White, do you carry the white unit.. also Future Shop is doing $429.99... thank you
Hello MitchellWong-
It looks like xl covered quite a bit here, but to elaborate, Future Shop is a Canadian company and as such, our US Best Buy stores would not price match them on any items. You can find more on our Price Match Guarantee here.
Thanks for posting!
Bill|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message -
My iPad will only recognise photos when I connect an Sd card with the camera connection kit. It doesn't recognise video clips from the same card?!
Most probably because your camera records videos into MTS files, which aren't cmpatible with iOS. Read http://www.iphonelife.com/blog/87/playing-back-1080p60i60p-non-mov-videos-right- your-camera for more info and the alternatives (preprocessing ("remuxing") on a desktop etc); don't forget to follow the iVI review link at the bottom if you have a Mac.
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How do i delete photos put on with camera connection kit?
I have never synced by ipad to my computer. I have only put photos on with the camera connection kit. but it wont let me delete them. I no longer have the card that I put them on with. how do I delete the photos?
open the album they're in, select and delete. (if you don't know you're looking for the trashcan icon)
See if the info here helps
https://help.apple.com/ipad/8/ -
Canon the 18-55 kit lens cope with fast moving subjects?
Hi everyone, I'm new here.
I was doing a shoot the other day involving very quick subjects that changed direction a lot (dogs). Got some good shots but the vast majority were badly out of focus which was a real shame. I want to know if this is the lens, the body or my technique that is failing me.
I'm relatively new to photography so it might just be that my settings are wrong or my technique is bad. I'm using the lens wide open, not in live view, with AF servo on on a 600D body. Generally when I focus I just pan the camera round to follow the subject, occasionally squeezing down when I want to shoot.
I am considering upgrading to the 17-55 f2.8 because it's sharp wide open and has a constant and fast aperture and USM and full time manual focus with a proper focusing ring.
Thanks.
Solved!
Go to Solution.Your problems are probably due to a combination of factors. IMO, auto focus performance is determined by three things....
1. Camera AF capabilities. Your 600D has a 9-point AF system. Only one of those points - the center one - is the "better" cross type that's more responsive and tracks movement better. When shooting moving subjects with your camera, it would help to limit yourself to using only the center point. (Note: other Canon cameras have more advanced AF systems. The T4i, T5i, 60D, 50D and 40D all have 9-point AF that looks similar, but all nine points are the "better" cross type sesnors. The 7D and 70D have 19-point AF, with all nineteen cross type. 1DX and 5DIII have 61-point AF, with up to 41 cross type, depending upon the lens used.)
Some cameras are also optimized for focus performance. For example, the 1D series models and 7D have a separate chip driving AF.... while most (maybe all?) other models share AF duties through the same processor that's handling images.
2. Lens auto focus capabilities: Yes, a "USM" (Ultrasonic Motor) drive lens such as the EF-S 17-55/2.8 would be an improvement over your kit lens. It's faster, hunts less and is quieter than a "micro motor" drive such as is used in the less expensive kit lens. (Note: there is a slightly more expensive version of the 18-55mm with "STM" or "Stepper Motor" focus drive, which is better than the micro motor version, but still not as fast as USM. STM lenses are quiet operating and particularly well matched for video.)
A larger aperture lens, such as the 17-55/2.8 (as opposed to your 18-55/3.5-5.6), also delivers more light to the camera's AF sensors, to allow for faster focus and better tracking.
No, forget about the EF 50/1.8.... Sure it's got a larger aperture, but it uses a micro motor and is widely known to be slower focusing, less accurate and liable to hunt more than a USM lens. If you wanted a fast and sure focusing short to moderate telephoto, look at the EF 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2 or 135/2L lenses. These all use USM drive and are much faster and more accurate than the EF 50/1.8. They also have one to two stop larger max aperture than even the 17-55/2.8 (or any other zoom lens), so provide more light for the camera to work with. Using a lens f2.8 or "faster" will give optimal performance on your camera, with that center AF point.
Some lenses simply are not designed to be fast focusing, even though they have larger apertures and USM focus. Macro lenses, for example, have to move their focus group a long, long way to go from infinity to 1:1 magnification so tend to be slower. Also, very large aperture lenses such as the 85/1.2L typically are slower.... by design. Both macro and very large aperture lenses emphasize precision, to deal with shallow depth of field effects, rather than speed.
Other lenses are designed for very fast focus. All the 70-200s, the 100-400, and all the prime lenses 300mm and longer are quite fast focusing. Extreme telephotos such as 500 and 600mm can be hard to get and keep on target, though.
Some third party lenses also make use of focus drive similar to Canon's USM, to help with focus performance. Sigma's HSM and Tamron's USD lenses are examples.
3. User skill is the third key factor effecting focus perfromance.... i.e., your technique.
You mention using "AF Servo"... Just to clarify, yourcamera has three focus modes: One Shot, AI Focus and AI Servo... there is no "AF Servo". The correct mode to use with moving subjects is AI Servo. Maybe that's what you are doing already. At any rate, One Shot is pretty much only usable with stationary subjects (there are "pre-focus" techniques where it can be used with moving subjects, but those are fairly uncommonly used). AI Focus isn't really a foucs mode at all... It's supposed to decide for you whether or not the subject is moving, then switch to use the correct mode. I haven't tested this on any recent model, but older ones where I tried it I found a slight delay that causes a lot of missed focus shots. It also simply chose the wrong mode sometimes. It might be worth noticing that the more pro-oriented Canon models don't even have AI Focus... they only offer One Shot or AI Servo.
So, just be sure you are using AI Servo for the best performance when shooting moving subjects.
You also are using way too slow a shutter speed. I would bump up the ISO and try to use 1/500 or faster shutter speeds. 1/320 or 1/400 is very marginal, trying to stop subject movement with something as quick as dogs in action. In fact, the closer you are to the subject, the faster shutter speed you will need to truly freeze movement.
Canon also has noted that the 18MP models are somewhat prone to camera shake blur - probably due to the high density of pixel sites on the sensor - and recommends keeping shutter speeds up to be sure to get a sharp shot, even with IS lenses. There was a white paper about this, on Canon's website. I don't know if it's still available online.
You should be able to get quite nice, clean images at ISO 1600... a full two stop higher and allowing you to use much faster shutter speed. Even so, if shooting indoors there might be areas that aren't as well lit and are hard to get a sharp shot.
You may want to shoot RAW files, so that you can more fully control noise reduction and exposure factors in post-processing when using high ISOs.
A popular technique among sports/action photographers is Back Button Focusing. See this article online, about it: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml
BBF separates the focusing function from the shutter release button. You instead use your thumb on one of the camera's rear buttons to start and stop focusing. Many users feel this allows more sure acquistion and tracking with moving subjects. You may want to set up your camera to do BBF and give it a try. While it's particularly possible for action/sports/AI Servo shooting, it's actually usable with One Shot, too... I have used it pretty exclusively for some years now.
Using BBF, I start AF well before I want to take the shot, then concentrate on keeping the AF point on the subject right where I want the lens to focus while continuing to track and maintain focus... then take shots along the way. I use the center AF point alone, much of the time. This does lead to overly centered images, so I try to frame a little loosely some of the time, allowing for some cropping to make images less centered. I do sometimes use other than the center AF point... but wouldn't recommend that with action shooting on a camera that doesn't have cross type sensors at the peripheral points, such as your 600D.
I use a pair of 7Ds and a number of fast focusing USM lenses to shoot a lot of sports. With some years of practice under my belt, on avearage I nail focus on 95 to 98 out of 100 shots using this gear with the above techniques. I shot 4000 images at a recent event and marked just over 30 of those as "rejected" for missed focus problems (and I bet at least half of those are my fault... not the gear's). There may be a few more that are marginally acceptible (i.e., can make a nice 8x10 print, but won't look good any larger than that). Still, even if there are 80 or 120 missed focus, that's only 2 or 3%... a lot better than only 10% in focus.
I would say that lens performance qualities and user techniques generally count more than the camera though, or at least can largely make up for any camera short-comings. I got nearly as good results with 50D, and with 30D before that (which have similar AF system to your 600D), and even with 10D earlier than that (a "lesser" AF system than yours).Though I've gotten a few, I haven't had as good luck shooting moving subjects using 5D Mark II (I mostly just use it for stationary subjects).. the 5D Mark III has a much improved AF system and tracks movement far better.
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM -
Camera connective kit does not work with card reader
Can I only use my USB camer connective kit with my camera and not a card reader?
Which card reader? Are you using an SD card in it or some other form factor?
As long as you're targeting an SD card with photos or movies, it should work same as connecting to a camera....but in that case, there is really no need since the camera kit includes an SD reader. -
Once pictures are moved from your camera to your iPad (using the camera connection kit), how do you get the photos off of the iPad? They do not show up in my photo stream or my iCloud. I am able to see any photo I took on the iPad using the iPad camera (in iTunes, photo stream, or when I open windows explorer and browse the iPad director), however I cannot see any photos transfered from my camera to the iPad. The camera connection kit must have put my photos in a directory I cannot get to and cannot sync.
The links below have instructions for deleting photos.
iOS and iPod: Syncing photos using iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4236
iPad Tip: How to Delete Photos from Your iPad in the Photos App
http://ipadacademy.com/2011/08/ipad-tip-how-to-delete-photos-from-your-ipad-in-t he-photos-app
Another Way to Quickly Delete Photos from Your iPad (Mac Only)
http://ipadacademy.com/2011/09/another-way-to-quickly-delete-photos-from-your-ip ad-mac-only
How to Delete Photos from iPad
http://www.wondershare.com/apple-idevice/how-to-delete-photos-from-ipad.html
How to: Batch Delete Photos on the iPad
http://www.lifeisaprayer.com/blog/2010/how-batch-delete-photos-ipad
(With iOS 5.1, use 2 fingers)
How to Delete Photos from iCloud’s Photo Stream
http://www.cultofmac.com/124235/how-to-delete-photos-from-iclouds-photo-stream/
Cheers, Tom -
My deleted contacts still show up when I want to send a text message. But when I go to my address book there not there only when I want to send a text MSG there name comes up and if I select them it only show there number not name in the message. How an I get rid of that
Try this...
have a text convo with the person you want to delete. Go to the top contact in the text convo, hit edit contact, and delete that contact.
That resolution came from another thread on this issue, and this did solve to poster's issue. -
My deleted contacts still show up when I want to send a text message. But when I go to my address book there not there only when I want to send a text MSG there name comes up and if I select them it only show there number not name in the message. How an I get rid of that
Try this...
have a text convo with the person you want to delete. Go to the top contact in the text convo, hit edit contact, and delete that contact.
That resolution came from another thread on this issue, and this did solve to poster's issue.
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